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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STRHT 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  I45M 

(716)  S72-4S03 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographicaliy  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  o'f  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checited  below. 


D 


D 
D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pellicul6e 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  init  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  ceia  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  4t6  film6es. 


0    Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppidmentaires; 


Various  pagings. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


I      I   Coloured  pages/ 


D 
D 


0 


D 

D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  rastaurdes  et/ou  pellicuides 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


Quality  in^gaie  de  I'impression 

includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaira 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillat  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc..  ont  M  film^es  d  nouveau  de  fa^on  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmi  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 

IPX 14X 18X 22X 

I  \  \  I  TTi  \  I  \  I  n 


26X 


30X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


yiST'^^^J'tr^.' 


Ths  copy  filmed  here  has  b««n  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library, 

Department  of  National  Defence 


L'exemplaire  fiimA  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n*rosit6  de: 

Bibliothdque, 

Ministire  de  la  Defense  Natlonale 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6ti  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetA  de  l'exemplaire  filmA,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impree- 
sion,  or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impree- 
sion,  and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  filmte  en  commenpant 
par  la  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  at  en  terminant  par 
la  derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  salon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^-  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc..  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  film6  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup^rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

[,    4 

5 

6 

32X 


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i 


POPULAR  WORKS, 

PUBLISnSD   BY  J.   &   J.    HARPER,  NEW- YORK. 


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Notices  of  the  Family  Library. 


**  Tho  publlsheni  havo  hitherto  Ailly  deserved  their  daily  increafling 
fcputatiott  by  the  goud  taste  and  judii;nient  which  have  influenced  the 
oe'cutions  ef  works  lur  the  Family  Library."— Albany  Daily  Advertiser 

•'  The  Family  Library — A  title  which,  from  the  valuable  and  entertain 
kng  mniter  the  collectiun  contain."!,  as  well  as  n-om  the  carcAil  style  of  its 
execution,  it  well  deserves.  No  family,  indeed,  in  which  there  are  cbil* 
drnn  to  be  brought  up,  ought  to  be  without  this  Library,  as  it  furnishes 
the  readiest  resources  for  that  education  which  ought  to  accompany  or 
fluccRml  that  of  the  boarding-school  or  the  academy,  and  is  infinitely  more 
conducive  than  cither  to  the  cultivation  of  the  intellect."— Jfon</t/yK«vi«u;. 

*'1t  is  the  duty  of  every  person  having  a  family  to  put  this  excellent 
Library  into  the  hands  of  bis  children."— lY.  Y.  Mercantile  Advertiser. 

"  It  is  one  of  tlie  recommendations  of  the  Family  Library,  that  it  em- 
brncos  a  large  circle  of  interesting  matter,  of  important  information  and 
agreeable  entertainment,  in  a  concise  manner  and  a  cheap  form.  It  is 
CHiiiienlly  calculated  for  a  popular  series— published  at  a  price  so  low, 
that  persons  of  the  most  moderate  income  may  purchase  it— combining  a 
matter  and  a  style  that  the  most  ordinary  mind  may  cempiv  hend  it,  at  the 
enme  time  that  it  is  calculated  to  raise  the  moral  and  intellectual  chatricter 
of  the  people." — Constellation. 

"We  have  repeatedly  borne  testimony  to  the  utility  of  this  Wbfk.  It  is 
ore  of  the  best  tliai  has  ever  been  issued  fVom  the  American  press,  and 
should  be  in  the  library  of  every  family  desirous  of  treasuring  up  usedal 
kiiowledge." — Boston  Statesman. 

"  We  venture  the  assertion  that  there  is  no  publication  in  the  country 
more  suitably  adapted  to  the  taste  and  requirements  of  the  great  mass  of 
community,  or  better  calculated  to  raise  the  intellectut.!  char»ct«r  of  the 
middling  classes  of  society,  than  tho  Family  Library.'' — Boston  Masonic 
Mirror. 

'  We  have  so  onen  recommended  this  enterprising  and  useftil  publica- 
•  Idn  (the  Family  Library),  that  we  can  here  only  add,  that  each  succes- 
sive number  appears  to  confirm  its  merited  popularity."— iV.  Y.  Ameiican. 

"The  little  volumes  of  this  series  fnily  comport  with  their  title,  and  are 
In  themselves  a  Family  Library."—?/'.  Y.  Commercial  Advertiser. 

"  We  recommend  the  whole  set  of  the  Family  Library  as  one  oflthe 
cheapest  means  of  aflTording  pleasing  instruction,  and  imparting  a  proper 
.pi'idc  in  books,  with  whi>-h  we  are  acquainted.'* — U.  S.  Gazett",. 

"  [I  will  prove  instructing  and  amusing  to  all  classes.  We  are  pleased 
to  lonrn  that  the  works  comprising  this  Library  have  become,  as  they 
ouglii  to  be,  quite  popular  among  the  heads  of  families." — N.  Y.  Gazette. 

"  The  Family  Library  is,  what  its  name  implies,  a  collection  of  varions 
tri'rinal  works  of  the  best  kind,  containing  reading  useflil  and  interesting 
to  the  (auiily  circle.  It  is  newtly  printed,  and  should  be  in  every  family 
4hai  can  afford  it— the  price  being  moderate.'" — New-EnglandPalladium. 

«  Wo  are  pleased  to  see  that  the  publishers  have  obtained  sufficient  en- 
couragement to  continue  tiieir  valuable  Family  Library." — Baltimore  Re- 
publican. 

"  The  Family  Library  presents,  in  a  compendious  and  convenient  fbrmt 
well-written  histories  of  popular  men,  kingdoms,  sciences,  &c.  arran(f«d 
and  edited  by  able  writers,  and  drawn  entirely  fVom  the  most  correct  and 
accredited  authorities.  It  is,  as  it  professes  to  be,  a  Family  Library,  from 
which,  at  little  expense,  a  household  may  pcepare  theniselves  for  a  con- 
sideration of  those  elementary  subjects  of  education  and  society,  withoat  a 
due  acquaintance  with  which  neither  man  nor  woman  has  claim  to  be 
well  bred,  or  to  take  their  proper  place  among  those  with  whom  tlMf 
aiMe."— Charleston  Gazette. 


•  ' 


I     ' 


TO  TEACHERS  AND  TRUSTEES  OF  SCHOOLS. 


At.  r 


\  I 


The  publishers  of  the  Family  Library  would  re- 
spectfully suggest  to  teachers  and  trustees  of  schools 
generally  the  propriety  of  introducing  some  of  the 
different  volumes  of  this  work  into  their  schools  as 
a  reading  book  for  the  higher  classes.  They  are 
induced  to  make  this  suggestion,  more  particularly, 
in  consequence  of  having  received  several  very 
flattering  recommendations  from  eminent  teachers 
and  preceptors  of  some  of  the  most  flourishing 
academies  and  schools  in  the  country,  who  have 
made  use  of  the  work  to  a  considerable  extent; 
from  which  they  take  the  liberty  of  making  the  fol- 
lowing extracts,  showing  the  plan  of  introduction 
adopted  by  them : —        ,  "     "*  i 


if 


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V 


"  The  trustees  of  the  school  of  which  I  have  charge 

have,  at  my  suggestion,  and  with  the  approbation  of  the 
parents,  purchased  eight  copies  of  each  of  the  following 
volumes  composing  a  part  of  the  Family  Library : — The 
History  of  the  Bible,  The  Life  of  Napoleon,  History  of 
Poland,  History  of  Insects,  History  of  the  Polar  Ideas  and 
Regions,  Discoveries  in  Africa,  Abercrombie  on  the  Intel- 
lectual Powers,  and  Turner's  Sacred  History  of  the  lYorld. 


n 

m 


■■ 


9  TO    TEACHERS    AND    TRUSTEES. 

These  eight  copies  are  each  given  to  a  class  to  be  read  and 
returned  to  me,  and  are  then  read  by  the  next  succeeding 
class, — thus  making  the  books  the  property  of  the  school  in 
perpetuity.  The  trustees  intend  to  purchase  other  volumes 
of  the  work,  and  I  sincerely  hope  that  you  will  add  to  the 
Library  a  Life  of  Washington,  Franklin,  &c.,  which  should 
be  read  by  all  the  youth  of  our  country.  I  believe  that  the 
plan  adopted  in  my  school  would  be  generally  approved,  if 
suggested  and  understood." 

"I  have  read  the  first  forty-five  volumes  of  the 

Family  Library,  and  am  highly  pleased  with  them 

I  have  purchased  six  copies  of  each  of  the  Life  of  Alex- 
ander, the  History  of  Insects,  the  Life  of  Sir  Isaac  New- 
ton, the  Histories  of  Egypt  and  Palestine,  which  have  been 
read  in  my  school  with  great  interest  and  delight.  Perhaps 
you  might  be  pleased  to  know  the  plan  adopted  by  me  in 
using  these  volumes  in  my  school.  The  six  copies  are 
given  to  a  class  of  as  many  scholars  to  be  read  by  them  and 
returned  ;  they  are  then  put  into  the  hands  of  a  succeeding 
class  of  six,  until  all  the  scholars  in  my  school  have  read  them. 
Each  scholar  pays  me  three  cents  for  the  use  of  a  volume, 
which  he  has  the  privilege  of  taking  home  to  be  read  by 
him  or  the  other  members  of  the  family  during  evening 
hotirs.  The  plan  succeeds  admirably.  I  think  I  shall  be 
able  to  purchase  six  copies  of  nearly  every  volume,  to  be 
read  by  my  scholars.  I  have  never  seen  children  so  much 
interested  in  reading." 

The  publishers  have  also  the  satisfaction  to  learn 
fhat  measures  are  now  in  progress  for  the  introduc- 
tion of  this  Library  into  a  number  of  the  public  ^ 
schools  in  several  of  the  states. 


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^        '      PUOOK'ESS    OF    DISCOVERY 

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MOlU:    NOkTJIKUN    COASTS 


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AMERICA. 


•►> 


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.t"  NFIW-YORK: 

.%  J.    »fc    J.     HARPER,    82    CUFF -ST. 


183  3. 


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■4- 


HISTORICAL    VIEW 

OF 

THE    PROGRESS    OF    DISCOVERY   ON    THE    MORE 
NORTHERN    COASTS 


OP 


AMERICA, 


FROM  THE  EARLIEST  PERIOD  TO  THE  PRESENT  TIME. 


BY  PATRICK  FRASER  TYTLER,  ESQ., 
R.S.  AND   F.STA. 

WITH 


DESCRIPTIVE    SKETCHES    OF  THE    NATURAL  HISTORY 
OF  THE  NORTH  AMERICAN  REGIONS. 


\M 


BY    JAMES    WILSON,    ESQ.,    F.R.S.E.   AND    M.W.S. 


To  which  is  added  an  Appendix,  containing 

REMARKS  ON  A   LATE    MEMOIR   OF    SEBASTIAN   CABOT,  WITH  A 
VINDICATION   OF    RICHARD   HAKLUYT. 


ILLUSTRATED    BY    A    MAP    AND    NINU    ENORAVINGS. 


NEW-YORK : 

PRINTED  AND  PUBLISHED  BY  J.  &  J.  HARPER, 

No.    82    CLIFF-STREET, 

AND  BOLD  BY  THE  BOOKHKLI.ERS   OENERALLY  THROUGHOUT 
THE    UNITED   STATED. 


4    il 
1 


1833. 


^'0 


6'  ^ 


■^^t/j) 


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/     / 


/ 


PREFACE 

TO 

THE    AMERICAN    EDITION. 


Of  all  the  various  expeditions  of  discovery  by 
land  or  sea  that  have  been  undertaken  within  the 
present  century,  none  have  received  a  larger  share 
of  attention,  or  been  considered  of  more  importance, 
than  those  which  had  for  their  object  the  extension 
of  knowledge  respecting  the  Arctic  Regions.  In 
no  other  portion  of  the  earth's  surface  has  the  navi- 
gator to  contend  with  such  formidable  impediments, 
or  behold  so  peculiar  an  aspect  of  nature.  The 
conductors  of  the  Edinburgh  Cabinet  Library,  one 
of  the  most  able  and  useful  series  that  has  issued 
from  the  British  press,  selected  the  Polar  Seas  and 
Regions  as  the  subject  of  their  first  volume  (repub- 
lished in  the  United  States  as  No.  XIV.  of  the 
Family  Library),  and  the  popularity  of  the  work 
affords  a  strong  evidence  of  the  interest  excited  by 
its  contents. 

In  that  volume,  however,  the  subject  was  but 
commenced ;  the  most  important  intelligence  from 
those  distant  and,  until  now,  almost  unknown  re- 
gions has  been  procured  by  later  and  more  success- 

A2 


r 


:    i 


l| 


6  PREFACE. 

ful  voyagers  than  those  whose  labours  were  there 
described :  we  allude  to  the  expeditions,  partly  by 
land  and  partly  by  river  and  coast  navigation,  to 
ascertain  the  limits  of  North  America  where  the 
continent  borders  upon  the  Arctic  circle.  The 
scenery  is  of  the  same  grand  and  impressive  char- 
acter, and  the  adventurers  were  exposed  to  hazards 
if  possible  still  more  striking  than  those  encountered 
by  the  bold  explorers  of  the  polar  regions.  Their 
investigations  too  have  made  us  acquainted  with 
numerous  objects,  not  only  of  the  highest  interest 
to  the  zoological  observer,  but  of  great  value  as  the 
materials  of  an  extensive  commerce.  The  present 
volume  therefore,  originally  published  in  the  same 
excellent  collection,  exhibiting  a  full  and  accurate 
view  of  all  that  is  important  in  modern  knowledge 
of  the  most  remote  territories  of  North  America, 
may  be  considered  as  forming  a  sequel  to  the  "  Polar 
Seas  and  Regions,"  and  furnishing  all  that  was 
wanting  to  a  complete  account  of  the  whole  series 
of  northern  discoveries  by  land  and  water. 

Of  this  work  the  historical  and  critical  depart- 
ments have  been  contributed  by  Patrick  Fraser 
Tytler,  Esq.,  the  distinguished  author  of  the  His- 
tory of  Scotland,  emd  the  natural  history  by  James 
Wilson,  Esq., — two  gentlemen  whose  names,  the 
publishers  are  confident,  furnish  a  sufficient  guar- 
antee that  the  task  committed  to  them  has  been 
executed  with  care.  The  high  qualifications  of 
Mr.  Wilson,  the  American  reader  has  already  had 
ample  opportunities  to  appreciate  ;  and  we  may  add 
that,  from  his  intimate  acquaintance  and  correspond- 


% 


Preface. 


ence  with  Dr.  Richardson,  whos'^  name  stands  so 
high  among  the  explorers  of  the  northern  regions, 
he  has  enjoyed  peculiar  advantages  in  preparing  the 
interesting  sketches  now  submitted  to  the  public. 
The  student  of  natural  history  who  has  perused  the 
summaries  of  African  and  Indian  zoology  contained 
in  the  47th,  48th,  and  49th  numbers  of  the  Family 
Library,  will  not  fail  to  perceive  theii  increased 
value  when  examined  in  connexion  with  that  now 
given,  inasmuch  as  they  afford  the  materials  of  a 
comparative  view  of  the  animal  kingdom  in  three 
principal  divisions  of  our  globe,  and  thereby  throw 
a  valuable  light  on  the  subject  of  zoological  geog- 
raphy, which  has  recently  excited  the  attention  of 
the  scientific  world. 

The  map  has  been  constructed  with  the  greatest 
care  :  it  comprehends  all  the  recent  discoveries  on 
the  northern  boundary  of  America,  and  fully  exhibits 
the  routes  of  the  different  travellers  and  navigators 
whose  adventures  are  recorded  in  the  text.  The 
engravings  illustrate  several  striking  specimens  of 
natural  history,  drawn  chiefly  from  nature,  and  other 
objects  characteristic  of  that  quarter  of  the  globe. 

New-York,  January,  1833. 


ft*! 


I 


*"-■■ 


«'  >i 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

DISCOVERY   or   NORTH   AMKRICA — EARLY   VOYAGES   Of  THE  PORTU* 
Ui;ii:SK,  FRENCH,  AND   SHAMAHOS. 

First  Discovery  of  North  America  by  ,Tohn  Cabot — Voyages  of  Sebastian 
Cabot — Of  the  C'ortereals— Discovery  of  Labrador— French  Discoveries 
— Vo>  anjfes  of  Verazzano — Of  Jacques  Cariier— Discovery  of  Canada- 
Spanish  Voyages  of  Discovery  —  Cortes  —  Ulloa — Atarchon — Vis- 
caino .' Page  13 

CHAPTER  n. 

RVS8IAN   AND  ENGLISH  VOYAGBB.  ^   « 

Behring— Tchirikow— Cook  and  Clerke  —  Meares— Vancouver— Kotze 
hue W 

CHAPTER  IH. 

HEARNE   AND   SIR   ALEXANDER   MACKENZIE. 

Colonization  of  Canada— French  Fur  Trade— Rise  of  Hudson's  Bay 
Company— Hearne's  Three  Journeys— North-west  Fur  Company — 
First  Journey  of  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  in  1789— His  Second  Expe- 
ditioninl792 97 

CHAPTER  IV. 

DISCOVERIES   ALONG  THE  SHORES   OF  THE   ARCTIC  OCEAV. 

First  and  Second  Expeditions  of  Franklin— Voyage  of  Capt.  Beechey  149 

CHAPTER  V 


INTRODUCTORY    OBSERVATIONS  TO   THE    NATURAL    HISTORY. 

Amelioration  in  the  Character  of  European  Intercourse  with  uncivil- 
ized Nations- The  Absence  of  Sandy  Deserts  a  grand  Feature  in  the 
Physical  Attributes  of  America— General  Boundaries  of  the  Districts 


10 


CONTENTS. 


4 


afterward  treated  of  in  Detail— Early  Sources  of  Information  regard- 
ing the  Natural  History  of  North  America —General  View  of  the  Fur- 
countries— I'assatrcvs  across  the  llooky  Mountains— Plains  and  Valleys 
along  the  Pacific  Shore 210 

CHAPTER  VI. 

THE  QUADUfPEDS  OF  TUB  NORTHERN  REOIONS  OF  AMERICA. 

Inaccuracies  of  some  Historical  Writers— No  Monkeys  in  North  America 
— Bats— Shrewmice— Genus  Scalops,  or  .Shrewmole— Other  Moles  of 
America— The  Star-nose— Various  Hears— Difl'erent  digitated  Quiidru- 
peds— The  Canada  Otter- The  Sea-otter — The  Dogs  and  Wolves  of 
America— The  Foxes— The  Beuver — The  Musk-riit — Meadow  Mice  and 
Lemmings— 'I'he  Rocky  Mountain  Nt^otoma — The  American  Field- 
mouse — The  Marmots— The  Sriuirrel  Trihe — The  Canada  Porcupine — 
The  American  Hare— The  Polar  Hare— The  Prairie  Hare— The  Little 
Chief  Hare— Genus  Cervus— The  Elk,  or  Moosedcer — The  Reindeer 
— The  Woodland  Caribou — The  Rocky  Mountain  Sheep— The  Rocky 
Mountain  Goat— The  Bison,  or  American  Buffalo— The  Musk-ox. .  230 

CHAPTER  Vn. 

THE   BIRDS    OF  THE    NORTHERN   REGIONS  OF   AMERICA. 

Turkey-buzzard — Golden-eagle—  Bald-eagle — Hawks — Owls — Butcher- 
birds—  King-bird  —  Northern  Tyrant  —  American  Wafer-ouzel— Red- 
breasted  Thrush — Blue-bird— Arctic  Blue-bird— Cedar-bird,  or  Ameri- 
can Chatterer— Snow-bunting — Painted  Bunting  —  Pine-grosbeak — 
Evening-grosbeak  —  Scarlet  Tanajjer  —  Cuckoo-bunting  —  Crows  — 
Woodpeckers —  Humming-birds —  Swallows  —  Belted  Kingfisher  — 
Grouse — Passenger-pigeon  — Grallatores  —  Natatores  — Gulls  —Rocky 
Mountain  Golden-eye — Bewick's  Swan — Trumpeter-swan — White  Pel- 
ican—Great Nortliern  Diver— Black-throaied  Diver—Guillemots. .  274 

CHAPTER  Vin. 

SOME   ACCOUNT   OF   THE    FISHES    AND   OTHER   ZOOLOGICAL  PRODUC- 
TIONS   OF    THE    N(»RTHEUN    REGIONS    OF   AMERICA. 

Sturgeon — Salmon — Trout— Char — Capelan — White  Fish— Blue  Fish — 
Herring— Pike — Burbot — Perch— Bull-head — Northern  Insects — Their 
Natural  Preservation  from  Cold— More  Northern  Extension  of  Tropical 
Forms  in  America  than  in  Europe — Bees — Extension  Westwards  of 
the  Honey-bee — Diptera— Melville  Island  Spider— Butterflies....  300 


CHAPTER  IX. 


CHARACTERISTIC   FEATURES  IN  THE   BOTANY  OF  THE   NORTHERN 
REOIONS   OF   AMERICA. 

Mr.  Brown's  Observations  on  the  relative  Proportions  of  the  two  great 
Divisions  ofPhsnogamous  Plants— Beautiful  small  Willow  fVomEast 


CONTENTS. 


11 


ITHERN 


two  great 
(Vom  East 


Oreenland— Notices  of  the  more  remnrltable  Species  collected  by  Dr. 
Riclmrdson — Oulitirn  Timtonuni— (oriius  Alba— Phlox  lioodii — Vi- 
burnum F.diiie — Azalea  NiirliiHulis  -  I, ilium  Vhiladclpliirnm— Epilo- 
biuin  Aucusiirolium — Lt-tlum  laiiColium  — I,.  I'alusire -I'runus  Virgi- 
niaiia-l'yrusOvalis— Cn-pis  Nana— ('iiiprariat'oin.'Psta— I'lnun  Nigra 
— P.  Alha  I*.  Uaiiksianii — I'.  Microt  arpa-l'.  LambtTtiana-Enipe- 
trum  ,\i<.M«rn— Myru-a  (;al«-  I'opulus  Trepida— I'opulus  Kiilsamit'ora 
— .luMipcrus  j'rostraia-^placiHintri  INIiiioides— Dicraiium  Filongatum 
— fiyropliora  itrolHtscidra — llypcrbort-a  I'ennsylvanica.  Mi'ikienbergii, 
vell»'!i — ("ciniria  Riclianisoiiii — I'ucus  C'craiioides — Difliciiiiies  in  tlie 
Dcteriiiiiiaiion  of  Arctif  Spfcies  — Plants  recfiitly  inlroiiucid  to  the 
Pritir^ii  Gardens  Lmliyrus  Dtcai)liyllu.s— Euid  a  Franklinii— Lupinus 
Liiioralis-Clarkia  Pulctiolia— (Jerardia  Capiiata— Now  Dodecathcon 
— Andromeda  Tetrajiona — Menziesia  Empetrifolia— Azalea  Lappoiiica 
— Dryas  Druiimioiidiu 306 

CHAPTER  X. 

BKKTCII  OF  THE    GEOLOfilCAT.   FF.ATITRES  OF   SOME    OF  THE   NORTHERN 

DISTKUTri    OK    AMKRICA. 

Frozen  Subsoil  of  Hudson's  Bay— Primitive  Rocks  of  Hayes  River- 
Hill  River— Borders  of  Knee  Lake— Remarkable  Rock-island  of  Mag* 
netic  Iron  Ore — Lake  V^'inipej: — Ivimcstone  District— Fort  C'hipewyan 
— Carp  Lake — Gneiss  Formation  of  the  Barren  Grounds — Transparent 
Waters  of  Great  Bear  Lake— Fort  Franklin— Bear  Lake  River—  Lig- 
nite Formation  of  Mackenzie  River— Spontaneous  Fire — Pipe  Clay — 
Alluvial  Islands  at  the  Mouth  of  the  Mackenzie — Copper  Mountains — 
Copperrjiine  River — Islands  of  the  Arctic  Sea — Arctic  Shore — Cape 
Barrow— Galena  Point — Moore's  Bay — Bankes's  Peninsula— Barry's 
Island — Cape  Croker— Point  Turnagain — General  Occurrence  of  the 
New  Red  Sand  Stone — Hood's  River— Wilberforce  Falis— Gneiss  For- 
mation—General Summary 320 


APPENDIX. 


PRODUC- 


Remarks  on  a  late  Memoir  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  with  a  Vindi- 
cation OF  Richard  Hakluyt 389 


^■»  -  '  -^" 


>    I.I  iiiHL— aampF 


i'  I 


i 


':> 


ENGRAVINGS. 


Map  of  tho  Northorn  Coasts  of  America To  face  the  Vignette, 

VioNKTTK— Scene  near  Mount  Coplestone,  or  Western  Termination 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Portrait  of  Ilernan  Cortes Page  50 

Gronp  of  Esquimaux  west  of  the  Mackenzie  River 192 

Grizzly  Hear 23» 

American  Gray  Wolf..... 24fr 

Hare  Indian  or  Mackenzie  River  Dog 249 

Head  of  the  American  Black  Elk 2fi3! 

Rocky  Mnnnlain  Coat,  and  Rocky  Mountain  Sheep 267 

eabine'sGull 2W 


f 


♦*,'> 


PROGRESS    OF    DISCOVERY 

ON   TUK 

MORE  NORTHERN  COASTS 

or 

AMERICA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Discovery  of  Noith  America — Early  Voyages  of  the  Porlxt' 
guescy  French^  and  Spaniards. 

First  Discovery  of  North  America  by  Jnlin  Cabot— Voyajjes  or  Sebastian 
Ciibol— Of  ihe  Cortereals— Discovery  o'  Labrador— French  DiMcov- 
eries- Voyages  of  Vera/.zano — Of  Jacques  Carrier— Discovery  of  Can- 
ada—Spanish  Voyages  of  Discovery— Cortes— Ulloa—Alarchon — Vi»- 
caino. 

When  we  peruse  the  lives  of  such  men  as  De  Gama  and 
Columbus,  and  consider  the  complicated  difficulties  over- 
come by  these  early  navigators,  their  imperfect  means,  and 
the  dark  and  defective  state  of  their  knowledge,  it  is  difficult 
to  repress  astonishment  at  the  success  which  attended  their 
exertions,  and  the  magnitude  and  splendour  of  their  discov- 
eries. In  reflecting,  indeed,  upon  so  great  a  theme  as  the 
revelation  of  a  new  world,  it  becomes  us  to  raise  our  minds 
from  the  region  of  second  causes  to  the  awful  contempla- 
tion of  that  Almighty  Being  who  confounds  the  calcula- 
tions of  man  by  bringing  stupendous  results  out  of  the 
feeblest  human  preparations  ;  and  it  is  one  of  the  finest 
features  in  the  character  of  Columbus,  that  he  invariably 
acted  under  the  conviction  of  being  selected  by  God  for  the 
task  which  he  at  length  accomplished ;  but  the  admiration 

6 


t  I 


14 


coi.riMurs. 


'^ 


I  : 


iU 


'I  i 


'  ( 


1 


roL'anl  tliis  tjrcat  mnn,  nnJ  that  belongs, 
(l»':»it'«',  to  many  of  Ins  contcmpora- 


with  which  wr  roij 
thouL'h  in  an  infnior 

lies  in  the  field  (jf  discovery,  is  i'nhanrod  rather  than  ditnin 
ished  hy  thi--^  nnion  of  simple  and  [)rinutivc  faith  with  ar- 
dent ^'('iiius  and  undaunted  resolutii>n. 

A  former  vohnno  has  been  di;voted  to  tlic  description  of 
the  darini^  ellorts  which  have  been  made  to  explore  the  Polar 
fSeas  ;  and  wr  now  proceed  to  direct  our  attention  to  annlher, 
and  no  less  interesting  and  important  chapter  in  the  history 
of  human  enterprise, — the  discovery  of  North  America,  tmd 
the  progress  of  maritime  adve-nturc  on  the  more  northern 


coasts  of  this  vast  continent.     Without  dctractinjr  in 


any 


degree  from  the  fame  of  Columbus,  it  may  lie  mentioned  as 
a  remarkable  circum.stance,  that  although  the  admiral  landed 
in  Hispaniola  as  early  as  the  4th  of  February,  1493,  he  did 
not  ascertain  the  existence  of  the  continent  of  South  America 
till  the  30th  of  May,  1498  ;  while  there  is  certain  evidence 
that,  almost  a  year  before,  an  English  vessel  had  reached 
the  shores  of  North  America.  As  much  obscurity  hangs 
over  the  circumstances  of  this  early  voyage,  and  as  I  have 
arrived  at  a  conclusion  completely  at  variance  with  that 
adopted  by  a  late  acute  writer,*  it  will  be  necessary  to  dwell 
with  some  minuteness  on  the  history  of  this  great  event. 

The  attention  paid  to  navigation  by  the  commercial  states 
of  Italy,  and  especially  by  the  republics  of  Genoa  and 
Venice,  is  familiar  to  all  acquainted  with  the  history  of 
Europe  during  the  fifteenth  century.  Italian  merchants  and 
agents  of  opulent  commercial  houses  were  found  settled  in 
every  European  state  ;  and  the  impetus  communicated  to 
the  human  mind  by  the  discoveries  of  the  Portuguese  and 
the  Spaniards  rendered  the  sciences  of  cosmography  and 
navigation  the  most  popular  subjects  of  instruction  which 
were  taught  in  the  schools.  A  devotion  to  them  became 
fashionable  among  the  noble  and  ardent  youtlis,  who  asso- 
ciated with  them  all   that  was   romantic   and  delightful ; 

*  The  author  or  the  Memoir  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  p.  50,  51,  an  anon}'- 
inous  work,  which  contains  much  ingenious  criticism  and  valuable 
research.  It  is,  however,  unhappily  confused  in  its  arrangement,  and 
written  throughout  in  a  tone  of  asperity  which,  hi  the  discussion  of  a 
subject  of  remote  biography,  is  unpleasant  and  uncalled  for.  The  author 
tias  been  unjustly  severe  in  hi»?  animadversions  on  the  labours  of  Hak- 
luyt,  of  whom  a  brief  Vindicaion  will  be  found  at  the  end  of  this  volume 


V 


I.       I 


JOHN  cahot. 


IS 


I 

4 


they  wrre  con»iiUTtMl  jis  tho  'ortain  g\ii<le8  to  dnring  and 
8UCCR»8t\iI  mnrilimo  ;ulvrnturp,  rmtl  tho  hnndmaids  to 
wealth  unci  fame.  It  was  ilioiit  this  /riom<^ntou.s  period,  in 
the  year  1494,  that  we  find  ii  Venetian,  named  John  Cabot, 
or  (Jabota,  residinj;  in  the  opubiiit  city  of  nrintt)l.  At  what 
precise  time  ho  nettled  in  Enfflaud  is  not  now  discoverable  ; 
we  only  know  that  he  left  Italy  for  the  jmrpoHo  of  devoting 
himself  to  the  mercantile  profession.  He  was  one  of  those 
cnthnsiastic  spirits  upon  whom  the  career  of  (>oliunbuK  made 
a  deep  impression  ;  and  about  a  year  after  the  return  of  the 
great  Genoese  from  his  first  voyanre,  the  merchant  of  Bristol 
appears  to  have  embraced  the  idea  that  new  lands  uiijjht  bo 
discovered  in  the  north-west,  and  a  passajre  in  all  probability 
attained  by  this  course  to  India.*  Animated  by  such  a 
project,  Cabot  addressed  himself  to  Henry  VII.,  and  found 
immediate  encourairement  from  that  monarch,  who,  though 
of  a  cold  and  cautious  disposition,  was  seldom  slow  to  listen 
to  any  proposal  which  promised  an  increase  of  wealth  to 
his  exchequer.  On  the  5th  of  March,  1 495,  the  king  granted 
his  royal  commission  to  John  Cabot,  citizen  of  Venice,  and 
his  sons,  Louis,  .Sebastian,  and  Sanchez,  committing  to  him 
and  them,  and  to  their  heirs  and  deputies,  full  authority  to 
sail  to  all  countries  and  seas  of  the  east,  west,  and  north, 
under  the  banner  of  England,  with  five  ships,  of  whatever 
burden  and  strength  in  mariners  they  might  choose  to  em- 
ploy. The  equipment  of  this  squadron  was  cautiously  stip- 
ulated to  be  made  "  at  their  own  proper  costs  and  charges  ;" 
and  its  object  stated  to  be  the  discovery  of  the  isles,  regions, 
and  provinces  of  the  heathen  and  infidels  which  hitherto  had 
been  unknown  to  all  the  nations  of  Christendom,  in  what- 
ever part  of  the  globe  they  might  be  placed.  By  the  same 
deed  the  Cabots  were  empowered  to  set  up  the  banners  and 
ensigns  of  England  in  the  newly-discovered  countries ;  to 
subdue  and  possess  them  as  lieutenants  of  the  king  ;  and 
to  enjoy  the  privilege  of  exclusive  trade  :  the  wary  mon- 
arch, however,  annexing  to  these  privileges  the  condition, 
that  he  was  to  receive  the  fifth  part  of  the  capital  gain  upon 
every  voyage,  and  binding  their  ships  to  return  to  the  port 
of  Bristol.! 


*  Tiraboschi,  Storia  <lella  Letter.  Ital..  vol.  vi.  b.  i.  cii,..  6.  ^2i. 
t  I  have  noarly  followed  the  words  of  this  imi)ormnt(i(>cuine«t,  wtiich 

1>.  " 


111 


is  still  preserved.    Iljmor,  l-'ctjilurii  AugU«,  vol.  xii,  p.  5'J5. 


r€ 


mi^^^tuUL^r  •i:S\tm  m^ 


16      JOHN   CABOT   DISCOVERS  NORTH  AMERICA. 


Two  important  facts  are  ascertained  by  this  authentic 
document :  it  proves  that  John  Cabot,  a  citizen  of  Venice, 
was  the  principal  author  of,  and  adventurer  hi,  the  project ; 
and  that  no  voyage  with  a  similar  object  had  been  undertaken 
prior  to  the  5th  of  March,  1495. 

The  expedition,  however,  did  not  sail  till  the  spring  of 
1497,  more  than  a  twelvemonth  subsequent  to  the  date  of 
the  original  commission.     What  occasioned  this  delay  it  is 
now  difficult  to  determine ;  but  as   the  fleet  was  to   be 
equipped  at  the  sole  expense  of  the  adventurers,  it  is  not 
improbable  that  Cabot  had  required  the  interval  to  raise  the 
necessary  capital.     It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  in  no 
contemporary  chronicle  is  there  any  detailed  account  of  the 
voyage.     We  know,  however,  that  it  was  conducted   by 
John  Cabot  in  person,  who  took  with  him  his  son  Sebastian, 
then  a  very  young  man.     Its  result  was  undoubtedly  the 
discovery  of  North  America  ;  and  although  the  particulars  of 
this  great  event  are  lost,  its  exact  date  has  been  recorded  by 
an  unexceptionable  witness,  not  only  to  a  day,  but  even  to 
an  hour.     On  an  ancient  map,  drawn  by  Sebastian  Cabot, 
the  son,  whose  name  appears  in  the  commission  by  the  king, 
engraved  by  Clement  Adams,   a  contemporary,  and  pub- 
lished, as  there  is  reason  to  believe,  under  the  eye  of  Sebas- 
tian, was  written  in  Latin  the  following  brief  but  clear  and 
satisfactory  account  of  the  discovery  : — "In  the  year  of  our 
Lord  1497,  John  Cabot,  a  Venetian,  and  his  son  Sebastian, 
discovered  that  country,  which  no  one  before  his  time  had 
ventured   to  approach,   on  the   24th   of  June,  about   Ave 
o^clock  in  the  morning.     He  called  the  land  Terra  Primum 
Visa,  because,  as  I  conjecture,  this  was  the  place  that  first 
met  his  eyes  in  looking  from  the  sea.     On  the  contrary,  the 
island  which  lies  opposite  the  land  he  called  the  Island  of 
St.  John, — as  I  suppose,  because  it  was  discovered  on  the 
festival   of  St.  John   the  Baptist.     I'he   inhabitants    wear 
beasts'  skins  and  the  intestines  of  animals  for  clothing,  es- 
teeming them  as  highly  as  we  do  our   most  precious  gar- 
ments.    In  war  their   weapons    are  the   bow    and  arrow, 
spears,  darts,  slings,  and  wooden   clubs.     The   country  is 
steril   and   uncultivated,  producing  no   fruit ;  from  which 
circumstance  it  happens  that  it  is  crowded  with  white  bears, 
and  stags  of  an  unusual  height  and  size.     It  yields  plenty 


A 


LICA. 

authentic 
[)f  Venice, 
le  project ; 
mdertaken 

spring  of 
he  date  of 
delay  it  is 
vas   to   be 
s,  it  is  not 
o  raise  the 
:hat  in  no 
unt  of  the 
ducted   by 
Sebastian, 
l)tedly  the 
ticulars  of 
scorded  by 
it  even  to 
[an  Cabot, 
y  the  king, 
and  pub- 
of  Sebas- 
clear  and 
ear  of  our 
Sebastian, 
time  had 
bout   five 

Primum 
that  first 

rary,  the 

sland  of 
d  on  the 
Its   wear 

ling,  es- 
ous  gar- 
J  arrow, 
untry  is 
n  which 
te  bears, 
plenty 


DISCOVERY    OF   NORTH  AMERICA. 


17 


of  fish,  and  these  very  large  ;  such  as  seals  and  salmon  : 
there  are  soles  also  above  an  ell  in  length ;  but  especially 
great  abundance  of  that  kind  of  fish  called  in  the  vulgar 
tongue  baccalaos.  In  the  same  island,  also,  breed  hawks, 
so  black  in  their  colour  that  they  wonderfully  resemble 
ravens ;  besides  which  there  are  partridges  and  eagles  of 
dark  plumage."* 

Such  is  the  notice  of  the  discovery  of  North  America ; 
and  as  some  doubt  has  lately  been  thrown  upon  the  subject, 
it  may  be  remarked  that  the  evidence  of  the  fact  contained  in 
this  inscription  is  perfectly  unexceptionable. '  It  comes  from 
Clement  Adams,  the  intimate  friend  of  Richard  Chancelor  ; 
and  Chancelor  lived,  as  is  well  known,  in  habits  of  daily  inter- 
course vvith  Sebastian  Cabot,  who  accompanied  his  father  on 
the  first  voyage  of  discovery.  Unfortunately,  both  the  original 
map  and  the  engraving  are  lost ;  but  happily  Purchas  has 
preserved  the  information  that  the  engraved  map  by  Adams 
bore  the  date  of  1549  ;t  at  which  time  Sebastian  Cabot  was 
In  such  great  reputation  at  the  court  of  Edward  VI.,  that 
for  his  services  he  had  received  a  princely  pension.  This 
young  monarch,  as  we  learn  from  Burnet,  showed  a  peculiar 
fondness  for  maritime  affairs.  He  possessed  a  collection  of 
charts,  which  were  hung  up  in  his  cabinet,  and  among 
them  was  the  engraving  of  Cabot's  map.  The  inscription, 
therefore,  must  have  been  seen  there  and  elsewhere  by 
Sebastian  ;  and,  when  we  consider  that  the  date  of  the  en- 
graving corresponds  with  the  time  when  he  was  in  high 
favour  with  the  king,  it  does  not  seem  improbable  that  this 
navigator,  to  gratify  his  youthful  and  royal  patron,  employed 
Adams  to  engrave  from  his  own  chart  the  map  of  North 
America,  and  that  the  facts  stated  in  the  inscription  were 
furnished  by  himself.  The  singular  minuteness  of  its  terms 
seems  to  prove  this  ;  for  who  but  he,  or  some  one  personally 
present,  after  the  lapse  of  fifty-two  years,  could  have  com- 
municated the  information  that  the  discovery  was  made 
about  five  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  24th  June  1  If, 
however,  this  is  questioned  as  being  conjectural,  the  fact  that 
Sebastian  must  have  seen  the  inscription  is  sufficient  to 
Tender  the  evidence  perfectly  conclusive  upon  the  important 
point  of  John  Cabot  being  the  discoverer  of  North  /  inerica. 


llakluyt,  vol.  iii.  \\  fi. 


M 


t  Piirchas's  Pilgrims,  .vol.  iii.  p.  807. 
B3 


■^^utggm^muaauM 


18 


DISCOVERY    OF    NORTH   AMERICA. 


That  he  had  along  with  him  in  his  ship  his  son  Sebastian 
cannot,  v/e  think,  in  the  opinion  of  any  impartial  person, 
detract  from  or  infringe  upon  the  merit  of  the  father.  But, 
to  complete  the  proof^  a  late  writer  has  availed  himself  of 
an  imperfect  extract  from  a  record  of  the  rolls,  furnished  by 
the  industrious  Hakluyt,  to  discover  an  original  document 
which  sets  the  matter  altogether  at  rest.  This  is  the  second 
commission  for  discovery,  granted  by  Henry  VII.  on  the  3d 
of  February,  and  in  the  thirteenth  year  of  his  reign,  to 
the  same  individual  who  conducted  the  first  expedition.  The 
letters  are  directed  to  John  Kabotto,  Venetian,  and  permit 
him  to  sail  with  six  ships  "  to  the  land  and  isles  of  late 
found  by  the  said  John  in  our  name  and  by  our  command- 
ment."* It  presents  a  singular  picture  of  the  inability  of 
an  ingenious  and  otherwise  acute  mind  to  estimate  the 
weight  of  historical  evidence,  when  we  find  the  biographer 
of  Sebastian  Cabot  insisting,  in  the  face  of  such  a  proof  as 
this,  that  the  glory  of  the  first  discovery  of  North  America 
is  solely  due  to  Sebastian,  and  that  it  may  actually  be  doubted 
whether  his  father  accompanied  the  expedition  at  all.f 

Immediately  after  the  discovery  the  elder  Cabot  appears 
to  have  returned  to  England ;  and  on  the  10th  of  August  we 
find,  in  the  privy  purse  expenses  of  Henry  VII.,  the  sum 
of  ten  pounds  awarded  to  him  who  found  the  New  Isle, 
which  was  probably  the  name  then  given  to  Newfoundland. 
Although  much  engrossed  at  this  moment  with  the  troubles 
which  arose  in  his  kingdom  in  consequence  of  the  Cornish 
rebellion,  the  war  with  Scotland,  and  the  attempt  upon  the 
crown  by  Perkin  Warbeck,  the  king  determined  to  pursue 
the  enterprise,  and  to  encourage  a  scheme  for  colonization 
under  the  conduct  of  the  original  discoverer.  To  this  enter- 
prising navigator  he,  on  the  3d  of  February,  I497,t  granted 
those  second  letters-patent  just  alluded  to,  which  conferred 
an  ampler  authority  and  more  favourable  terms  than  the  first 
commission.  He  empowered  John  Kabotto,  Venetian,  to 
take  at  his  pleasure  six  English  ships,  with  their  necessary 
apparel,  and  to  lead  them  to  the  land  and  isles  lately  found 
by  him  according  to  the  royal  command.  Cabot  was  also 
permitted  to  receive  on  board  all  such  masters,  mariners, 


*  Memoir  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  p.  70. 
t  01d8tyle,>-14i>8,  new  style. 


t  Ibid.  p.  50. 


SEBASTIAN    CABOT. 


19 


pages,  and  other  subjects,  as  chose  to  accompany  him  ; 
and  it  seems  probable,  from  some  entries  in  the  privy  purse 
expenses,  that  Launcelot  Thirkill  of  London,  Thomas  Brad- 
ley, and  John  Carter,  embarked  in  the  adventure.* 

When  about  to  set  sail  on  his  second  voyage,  John  Cabot, 
who  had  previously  received  from  Henry  the  honour  of 
knighthood,  appears,  from  some  cause  not  now  discoverable, 
to  have  been  prevented  from  taking  the  command  ;t  and 
though  the  name  of  Sebastian  was  not  included  in  the 
second  royal  commission,  he  was  promoted  to  the  situation 
left  vacant  by  his  father.  He  must  still  indeed  have  been  a 
young  man  ;  but  he  had  accompanied  the  first  voyage,  and 
at  an  early  age  developed  that  genius  for  naval  enterprise 
which  afterward  so  remarkably  distinguished  him.  We 
know  from  his  account  of  himself  that,  at  the  time  his 
parents  carried  him  from  Venice  to  London,  he  had  attained 
some  knowledge  of  the  sphere  ;  and  when  about  this  period 
the  great  discovery  of  Columbus  began  to  be  talked  of  in 
England  as  a  thini;  almost  more  divine  than  human,  the 
effect  of  it  upon  his  youthful  imagination  was  to  excite  "a 
mighty  longing,"  to  use  his  own  words,  "  an<l  burning  desire 
in  his  heart  that  he  too  should  perform  some  illustrious 
action."t  With  such  dispositions  we  may  easily  imagine 
how  rapid  must  have  been  his  progress  in  naval  science, 
with  the  benefit  of  his  father's  example  and  instructions. 
It  is  not  matter  of  surprise,  therefore,  that,  though  probably 
not  more  than  twenty-three  years  old,  the  conduct  of  the 
enterprise  was  intrusted  to  him.  He  accordingly  sailed  from 
England  with  two  ships  in  the  summer  of  149S,  and  directing 
his  course  by  Iceland  soon  reached  Newfoundland,  which 
he  called  Terra  de  Baccalaus,  from  the  great  quantity  of  fish 
of  that  name. 

Of  this  remark  'ble  voyage  a  short  account  is  preserved  by 
Peter  Martyr,  the  historian  of  the  New  World,  a  writer  of 
high  authority,  and  so  intimate  a  friend  of  the  navigator, 


*  See  Mr.  Nicholas's  excellent  collection  entitled  Excerpta  Historica, 
p.  116,  117. 

*  The  cause  might  be  his  death  ;  but  this  is  conjecture,— of  the  fact 
there  is  no  direct  proof;  or  (he  kni>;hihood  it  is  not  possible  to  doubt. 
See,  in  the  Vindication  of  H»kluyt,  the  remarks  on  the  errors  of  tbebiog* 
rapher  of  Cabot  in  his  chapter  on  tius subject. 

;  Raausio,  Viaggi,  vol.  i.  p.  414. 


ir 


W^'»iW 


i: 


<   t 


W 


SEBASTIAN  CABOT. 


that,  at  the  time  he  wrote  the  passage  which  we  now  give, 
Sebastian  was  in  the  habit  of  paying  him  frequent  visits  at 
his  house.  "  These  northern  seas,"  says  this  writer,  "  have 
been  navigated  and  explored  by  Sebastian  Cabot,  a  Vene- 
tian by  birth,  whom  his  parents,  when  they  were  setting  out 
to  st  ttle  in  Britain,  according  to  the  common  custom  of  the 
Venetians,  who  for  the  sake  of  commercial  adventure  be- 
come citizens  of  every  country,  carried  along  with  them 
when  he  was  little  more  than  an  infant.*  He  fitted  out  two 
ships  in  England  at  his  own  charges,  and  first  with  three 
hundred  men  directed  his  course  so  far  towards  the  North 
Pole,  that  even  in  the  month  of  July  he  found  great  heaps 
of  ice  swimming  in  the  sea,  and  almost  continual  daylight. 
Yet  he  saw  the  land  free  from  ice,  which  had  been  melted 
by  the  heat  of  the  sun.  Thus,  observing  such  masses  of  ice 
before  him,  he  was  compelled  to  turn  his  sails  and  follow 
the  west ;  and,  coasting  still  by  the  shore,  was  brought  so 
far  into  the  south,  by  reason  of  the  land  bending  much  to 
the  southward,  that  it  was  there  almost  equal  in  latitude 
with  the  sea  called  Fretum  Herculeum.  He  sailed  to  the 
west  till  he  had  the  Island  of  Cuba  on  his  left-hand,  almost 
in  the  same  longitude.  As  he  passed  along  those  coasts, 
called  by  him  Baccalaos,  he  affirmed  that  he  found  the  same 
current  of  the  waters  towards  the  west  which  the  Spaniards 
met  with  in  the  southern  navigations,  with  the  single  differ- 
ence that  they  flowed  more  gently.  From  this  circum- 
stance it  appears  to  me,"  says  Martyr,  "  not  only  a  probable, 
but  an  almost  necessary  conclusion,  that  there  must  exist, 
between  both  the  continents,  hitherto  unknown,  great  gaps 
or  open  places,  through  which  the  waters  continually  pass 
from  the  east  to  the  west.  *  •  *  *  Sebastian  Cabot  him- 
self named  these  lands  Baccalaos,  because  in  the  seas 
thereabout  he  found  such  an  immense  multitude  of  large 
fish  like  tunnies,  called  baccalaos  by  the  natives,  that  they 
actually  impeded  the  sailing  of  his  ships.  He  found  also 
the  inhabitants  of  these  regions  covered  with  beasts'  skins, 
yet  not  without  the  use  of  reason.  He  also  relates  that 
there  are  plenty  of  bears  in  these  parts,  which  feed  upon 

*  Cabot  was  born  in  England,  and  carried  by  his  father  into  Italy  yrhen 
'our  years  old.  He  was  afterward  brought  back  to  England  when  a 
youth,  "assai  giovanc,"— Kamusio,  vol.  i.  n.  414.  Mojxjoir  of  C^bot. 
|k  69 


y    ' 


martyr's  account  of  his  voyage.       21 


fish.  It  is  the  practice  of  these  animals  to  throw  themselves 
into  the  midst  of  the  shoals  of  fish,  and  each  suizing  his 
prey,  to  hury  their  claws  in  the  scales,  drag  them  to  land, 
and  there  devour  them.  On  this  account,  he  says,  that  those 
bears  meddle  little  with  men.  *  *  *  Cabot  is  my  inti- 
mate friend,  and  one  whom  it  is  my  delight  to  have  frequently 
under  my  roof;  for,  being  called  out  of  England  by  the 
command  of  the  King  of  Castile  after  the  death  of  Henry 
VII.,  he  was  made  one  of  our  council  and  assistants  relating 
to  the  affairs  of  the  new  Indies  ;  and  he  looks  daily  for  ships 
to  be  fitted  out  for  him  that  he  may  discover  this  hidden 
secret  of  nature.  I  expect,"  concludes  Peter  Martyr,  "  that 
he  will  be  able  to  set  out  on  his  voyage  during  the  course 
of  the  next  year,  1516,  and  in  the  month  of  March."* 
When  it  is  known  that  Sebastian  Cabot's  second  voyaget 
from  England  to  North  America  did  not  take  place  till  1517, 
it  becomes  certain  that  the  above  passage,  written  in  1515, 
must  relate  to  the  expedition  of  1498 ;  and  remembering 
that  the  author  was  personally  intimate  with  this  navigator, 
and  wrote  only  seventeen  years  after  the  voyage  had  taken 
place,  we  are  inclined  to  set  a  high  value  on  such  an  authority. 
It  is  deeply  to  be  regretted  that  the  original  maps  drawn  by 
so  eminent  a  dlsc5verer,  and  the  discourses  with  which  he 
illustrated  them,  are  now  lost  ;t  but  in  this  deficiency  of 
original  materials  the  work  of  Ramusio, — a  collector  of 
voyages  who  was  a  contemporary  of  Cabot, — supplies  some 
valuable  information. 

In  the  first  volume  of  his  Voyages  this  amusing  writer 
has  introduced  a  discourse  upon  the  different  routes  by 
which  the  spices  of  the  East  were  conveyed  in  ancient  times 
to  Europe  ;  and  towards  the  conclusion  of  the  essay  he  brings 
in  a  subject  which  then  deeply  occupied  the  attention  of 
learned  men, — the  project,  namely,  for  discovering  a  passage 
to  the  kingdom  of  Cathay  and  the  coasts  of  India,  by  the 

*  Peter  Martvr,  De  Orbe  Novo.  3d  decad.  cap.  6.  Edition  by  Hakluyt 
p.  232.— Eden's  Transl  "tion  in  Willes's  Hist,  of  Travayie,  p.  125.— The 
hidden  secret,  or  natural  phenomenon,  of  which  Cabot  was  e.xpecied  to 
penetrate  the  cause,  is  slated  by  Martyr  at  p.  231.— it  was  to  resolve  the 
que.siion,  "  Why  the  seas  in  theiie  parts  run  with  so  swid  a  current 
fl-om  thii  east  to  the  west  V 

t  Althougi)  the  son  accompanied  the  father,  I  consider  the  voyage  of 
1497  as  solely  conducted  by  John  Cabot. 

t  Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  41. 


\ 


<!?■ 


■  •imv ■■    i.nmnrwtwiyt^wi 


1  ' 


22 


RAMUSIO 


^ 


north-west.  In  the  discussion  of  this  point,  Ramusio  mi- 
nutely describes  a  conversation  which  took  place  at  the  villa 
of  the  celebrated  Italian  physician  and  poet  Fracastoro, 
between  Ramusio  himself,  Fracastoro,  an  architect  named 
St.  Michael,  and  a  certain  philosopher  and  mathematician, 
who  gave  them  an  account  of  an  interview  which  he  once 
had  with  Sebastian  Cabot  in  the  city  of  Seville.  The 
whole  passage  is  interesting,  whether  we  look  to  the  infor- 
mation regarding  Cabot,  or  to  the  pleasing  picture  it  brings 
before  us  of  the  great  Fracastoro  in  his  philosophic  and 
classical  retreat  at  Caphi.  No  apology,  therefore,  need  be 
made  for  presenting  it  to  the  reader.  "  Having  thus  given 
you,"  says  the  Italian  writer,  "  all  that  I  could  extract 
from  ancient  and  modern  authors  upon  this  subject,  it 
would  be  inexcusable  in  me  if  I  did  not  relate  a  high  and 
admirable  discourse  which  some  few  months  ago  it  was  my 

food  fortune  to  hear,  in  company  with  the  excellent  architect 
[ichael  de  St.  Michael,  in  the  sweet  and  romantic  country- 
seat  of  Hieronymo  Fracastoro,  named  Caphi,  situated  near 
Verona,  while  we  sat  on  the  top  of  a  hill  commanding  a 
view  of  the  whole  of  the  Lago  di  Garda.  *  *  *  Being  then, 
as  I  said,  at  Caphi,  where  we  had  gone  to  visit  our  excellent 
friend  Hieronymo,  we  found  him  on  our  arrival  sitting  in 
company  with  a  certain  gentleman,  whose  name,  from  mo- 
tives of  delicacy  and  respect,  I  conceal.  He  was,  however, 
a  profound  philosopher  and  mathematician,  and  at  that 
moment  engaged  in  exhibiting  to  Fracastoro  an  instrument 
lately  constructed  to  show  a  new  motion  of  the  heavens. 
Having  reasoned  upon  this  point  for  a  long  time,  they  by 
way  of  recreation  caused  a  large  globe,  upon  which  the 
world  was  minutely  laid  down,  to  be  brought ;  and,  having 
this  before  him,  the  gentleman  I  have  mentioned  began  to 
speak  to  the  following  purpose."  Ramusio,  after  this  intro- 
duction, gives  us,  as  proceeding  from  the  stranger,  a  great 
mass  of  geographical  information,  after  which  he  introduces 
him  discussing  with  Fracastoro  the  probability  of  a  north- 
west passage  to  India.  "At  this  point  of  his  conversation," 
says  he,  "  after  the  stranger  had  made  a  pause  for  a  few  mo- 
ments, he  turned  to  us  and  said,  •  Do  you  no:  >.now, 
regarding  this  project  of  going  to  India  by  the  noith-west, 
what  was  formerly  achieved  by  your  fellow-citizen  the  Vene- 
tian, a  most  extraordinary  man,  and  so  deeply  conversant  in 


HIS    ACCOUNT    OF    SKBASTUN    CABOT. 


23 


every  thing  connected  with  navigation  and  the  science  of 
cosmography,  that  in  these  days  he  hath  not  his  equal  in 
Spain,  insomuch  that  for  his  ability  he  is  preferred  above  all 
other  pilots  that  sail  to  the  West  Indies,  who  may  not  pass 
thither  without  his  license,  on  which  account  he  is  denom- 
inated Piloto  Mayor,  or  Grand  Pilot  I'     When  to  this  ques- 
tion we  replied  that  we  knew  him  not,  the  stranger  proceeded 
to  tell  us,  that  being  some  years  ago  in  the  city  of  Seville  he 
was  desirous  to  gain  an  acquaintance  with  the  navigations 
of  the  Spaniards,  when  he  learned  that  there  was  in  the  city 
a  valiant  man,  a  Venetian  born,  named  Sebastian  Cabot,  who 
had  the  charge  of  those  things,  being  an  expert  man  in  the 
science  of  navigation,  and  one  who  could  make  charts  for 
the  sea  with  his  own  hand.     '  Upon  this  report  of  him,' 
continued  he,  *  I  sought  his  acquaintance,  and  found  him  a 
pleasant  and  courteous  person,  who  loaded  me  with  kind- 
ness, and  showed  me  many  things  ;  among  the  rest  a  large 
map  of  the  world,  with  the  navigations  of  the  Portuguese 
antl  the  Spaniards  minutely  laid  down  upon  it ;  and  in  ex- 
hibiting this  to  me,  he  informed  me  that  his  father,  many 
years  ago,  having  left  Venice  and  gone  to  settle  as  a  mer- 
chant in  England,  had  taken  him  to  London  when  he  was 
still  a  youth,  yet   not  so   backward  but   he  had  then  ac- 
quired the  knowledge  of  the  Latin  tongue,  and  some  ac- 
quaintance with  the  sphere.     It  so  happened,  he  said,  that 
his  father  died  at  that  time  when  the  news  arrived  that  Don 
Christopher  Columbus  had  discovered  the  coast  of  the  Indies, 
of  which  there  was  much  talk  at  the  court  of  Henry  VII., 
who  then  reigned  in  England.'  "     The  effect  of  this  discov- 
ery upon  Cabot's  youthful  ambition,  which  we  have  already 
alluded  to,  is  next  described  by  Ramusio  from  the  report  of 
the  stranger,  and  he  then  proceeds  in  these  remarkable 
words  : — "  *  Being  aware,'  said  Cabot  to  me,  '  that  if  I  sailed 
with  the  wind  bearing  me  in  a  north-westerly  course,  I 
should  come  to  India  by  a  shorter  route,  I  suddenly  imparted 
my  ideas  to  the  king,  who  was  much  pleased  with  them, 
and  fitted  out  for  me  three  caravels  with  all  necessary  stores 
and  equipments      This,'  he  added, '  was  in  the  beginning 
of  the  summer  of  the  year  1496,  and  I  began  to  sail  towards 
the  north-west  with  the  idea  that  the  first  land  I  should 
make  would  be  Cathay,  from  which  I  intended  afterward  to 
direct  my  course  to  the  Indies  ;  but  after  the  lapse  of  several 


H 


W 


^'  'ill 

1.1 

i  \      fMJ; 


'! 


24 


SEBASTIAN   CABOT. 


^Ji 


f, 


^    ! 


days,  having  discovered  it,  I   found  that  the  coast  ran 
towards  the  north  to  my  great  disappointment.     From  thence 
sailing  along  it,  to  ascertain  if  I  could  find  any  gulf  to  run 
into,  1  could  discover  none,  and  thus  having  proceeded  as 
far  as  56°  under  the  Pole,  and  seeing  that  here  the  coast 
trended  towards  the  east,  I  despaiied  of  discovering  any 
passage,  and  after  this  turned  back  to  examine  the  same 
coast  m  its  direction  towards  the  equinoctial, — always  with 
the  same  object  of  finding  a  passage  to  the  Indies,  and  thus 
at  last  I  reached  the  country  at  present  named    Florida, 
where,  since  my  provisions  began  to  fail  me,  I  took  the  reso- 
lution  of  returning  to  England.     On  arriving  in  that  coun- 
try I  found  great  tumults,  occasioned  by  the  rising  of  the 
common  people  and  the  war  in  Scotland  ;  nor  was  there 
any  more  talk  of  a  voyage  to  these  parts.     For  this  reason 
I  departed   into  Spain  to  their  most  Catholic  majesties, 
Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  who,  having  learned  what  I  had  ac- 
complished, received  me  into  their  service,  provided  for  me 
handsomely,  and  despatched  me  on  a  voyage  of  discovery  to 
the  coast  of  Brazil,  where  I  found  an  exceeding  deep  and 
mighty  river,  called  at  present  La  Plata,  into  which  I  sailed 
and  explored  its  course  into  the  continent  more  than  six- 
score  leagues.  *  *  *  This,'  continued  the  stranger  gentle- 
man, addressing  himself  to  us,  *  is  the  substance  of  all  that 
I  learned  from  the  Signor  Sebastian  Cabot.'  "* 

Such  is  the  passage  from  Ramusio  ;  and  from  it  we  have 
another  proof  that  of  this  second  voyage,  which  probably 
took  place  after  the  death  of  the  original  discoverer,  Sebas- 
tian Cabot  had  the  sole  command  ;  that  its  object  was  to 
find  a  north-west  passage  to  India,  and  that  the  highest 
latitude  which  he  reached  was  56°.  I  am  quite  aware 
some  of  the  statements  in  this  extract  are  erroneous,  and 
that  Gomara,  an  author  of  good  authority,  carries  Sebastian 
as  far  as  58°  north  ;t  but,  considering  the  particular  cir- 
cumstances under  which  the  information  is  conveyed,  there 
is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  the  general  sketch  of  the  voyage 
is  correct :  and  it  establishes  the  important  fact,  that  as 
early  as  1498,  the  coast  of  North  America,  from  the  latitude 
of  56°  or  68°  north  to  the  coast  of  Florida,  had  been  dis- 
covered by  the  English.     The  domestic  affairs  of  Henry» 

*  Viaggi  del  Ramusio,  torn.  i.  p.  413, 414 
t  Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  87. 


CORTEREAL. 


25 


however,  and  the  involved  political  negotiations  with  Frat. 
and  the  continent,  undoubtedly  prevented  the  kins  from 
holding  out  to  Sebastian  that  encouragement  with  which  so 
great  a  discovery  ought  to  have  been  rewarded ;  and  afler 
an  interval  of  fourteen  years,  of  which  we  have  no  certain 
n^^oiint,  tilts  great  navigator  left  England  and  entered  into 
the  service  of  Spain. 

The  Portuguese,  a  nation  to  whose  genius  and  perse- 
verance the  sister  sciences  of  geography  and  navigation 
owe  some  of  their  highest  triumphs,  were  at  this  period  in 
the  zenith  of  their  fame,  animated  with  an  enthusiastic 
spirit  of  enterprise,  and  ready  to  consider  every  discovery 
not  conducted  by  themselves  as  an  encroachment  upon  their 
monopoly  of  maritime  glory.  Inspired  with  this  jealousy, 
Gaspar  de  Cortereal,  of  whose  expedition  notice  has  already 
been  taken  in  this  Library,*  determined  to  pursue  the  track 
of  discovery  opened  by  Cabot  in  the  north-west,  and  in 
1500  sailed  with  two  ships  from  Lisbon,  animated  by  the 
desire  of  exploring  this  supposed  new  route  to  Tndia.t 
Cortereal  touched  at  the  Azores,  where  he  completed  his 
crews,  and  took  in  provisions.  He  then  steered  a  course 
never,  as  far  as  he  knew,  traced  by  any  former  navigator, 
and  came  upon  a  country  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of 
Terra  Verde,  but  which  is  carefully  to  be  distinguished 
from  that  called  Greenland.  This  was  in  truth  the  coast  of 
Labrador,  denominated  in  an  old  map  published  at  Rome,  in 
1508,  Terra  Corterealis.  It  lay  between  the  west  and 
north-west ;  and,  after  having  explored  it  for  upwards  of  600 
miles  without  reaching  any  termination,  Cortereal  con- 
cluded that  it  must  form  part  of  the  mainland,  which  was 
connected  with  another  region  discovered  in  the  preceding 

*  Discovery  and  Adventure  in  the  Polar  Seas,  Family  Library,  No. 
XIV. ;  and  Lives  and  Voyages  of  Drake,  Cavendish,  and  Dampier,  Ibid, 
No.  XXX. 

t  Cortereal  had  been  educated  in  the  household  of  the  King  of  Por- 
tugal before  he  canie  to  the  throne,  and  when  he  still  bore  the  title  of 
Duke  de  Beja. — Damiano  Goes,  Chronica  del  Rey  Dom.  Manuel,  c.  6&, 
cap.  66,  p.  187.  His  character,  as  given  by  this  ancient  and  contemporary 
chronicler,  is  brief  and  forcible.  "  Gaspar  de  Cortereal,  son  of  John 
Vaz  Cortereal,  was  a  man  of  an  enterprising  and  determined  character, 
ardently  thirsting  after  glory ;  for  which  reason  he  proposed  to  set  out 
on  a  voyage  of  discovery,  seeking  countries  in  northern  latitudes,  we 
(the  Portuguese)  having  at  this  time  discovered  many  in  soathern 
parts." 

O 


•*«- 


26 


CORTEREAL. 


yr  ar  in  the  north, — evidently  alluding  to  the  voyage  of  Se* 
b  istian  Cabot  in  1498.*  The  most  curious  and  authentic 
account  of  this  rcuiiirkable  expedition  of  the  Portuguese 
havigjitor  is  to  be  found  in  a  letter,  written  by  Pietro  Pas- 
quiligi,  the  Venetian  ambassador  at  the  court  of  Portugal, 
to  his  brothers  in  Italy,  only  eleven  days  after  the  return 
of  Cortereal  from  his  first  voyage.  "  (3n  the  8th  of  Octo- 
ber," says  he,  "  there  arrived  in  this  port  one  of  the  two 
caravels  which  were  last  year  despatched  by  the  King  of 
Portugal  for  the  discovery  of  lands  lying  in  the  north,  un- 
der the  command  of  Gaspar  Cortereal.  He  relates  that  he 
has  discovered  a  country  situated  between  the  west  and 
north-west,  distant  from  this  about  2000  miles,  and  which 
before  the  present  time  was  utterly  unknown.  They  ran 
along  the  coast  between  000  and  700  miles  without  arriving 
at  its  termination,  on  which  account  they  concluded  it  to  be 
the  same  continent  that  is  connected  with  another  land  dis- 
covered Inst  year  in  the  north,  which,  however,  the  caravels 
could  not  reach,  the  sea  being  frozen,  and  a  vast  quantity 
of  snow  having  fallen.  They  were  confirmed  in  the  same 
opinion  by  finding  so  many  mighty  rivers,  which  certainly 
were  too  numerous  and  too  large  to  have  proceeded  from  an 
island.  They  report  that  this  land  is  thickly  peopled,  and 
that  the  houses  are  built  of  verv  long  be  ir*i8  of  timber,  and 
covered  with  the  furs  of  the  skins  of  fishes.  They  have 
brought  hither  along  with  them  seven  of  the  inhabitants, 
including  men,  women,  and  children  ;  and  in  the  other 
caravel,  which  is  looked  for  every  hour,  they  are  bringing 
fifty  more.  These  people,  in  colour,  figure,  stature,  and 
expression,  greatly  resemble  gipsies  :  they  are  clothed  with 
the  skins  of  different  beasts,  but  chiefly  of  the  otter,  wear- 
ing the  hair  outside  in  summer,  and  next  to  the  skin  in 
winter.  These  skins,  too,  are  not  sewed  together,  nor 
shaped  to  the  bod)^  in  any  fashion,  but  wrapped  around  their 
arms  and  shoulders  exactly  as  taken  from  the  animals ; 
while  they  conceal  the  parts  which  nature  forbids  us  to  ex- 
pose with  strong  cords  made  of  the  sinews  or  entrails  of 
fishes.  On  this  account  their  appearance  is  completely 
savage ;  yet  they  are  very  sensible  to  shame,  gentle  in 
their  manners,  and  better  made  in  their  arms,  legs,  and 

*  Memoir  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  p.  241. 


'M 


CORTEREAL. 


27 


shoulders  than  can  bo  pxprcsacd.  Their  faces  aro  punc- 
tured in  the  same  manner  as  t!ie  Indians ;  sotne  have  six 
marks,  some  ci<rht,  some  fewer :  they  use  a  lanrruajro  of 
their  own,  but  it  is  understood  by  no  one.  Moreover,  I  be- 
lieve that  every  possible  Inni^uayo  has  been  addressed  to 
them.  They  have  no  iron  in  their  country,  but  manufac- 
ture knives  out  of  certain  kinds  of  stones,  with  which  they 
point  their  arrows.  They  have  also  broaj|ht  from  this 
island  a  piece  of  a  broken  sword  inlaid  with  gold,  which  wo 
can  pronounce  undoubtedly  to  have  been  made  in  Italy ; 
and  one  of  the  children  had  in  his  ears  two  pieces  {todini) 
of  silver,  which  as  certainly  appear  to  have  been  made  in 
Venice, — a  circumstance  inducing  me  to  believe  that  their 
country  belongs  to  the  continent,  since  it  is  evident  that  if 
it  had  been  an  island  where  any  vessel  had  touched  before 
this  time,  we  should  have  heard  of  it.  They  have  great 
plenty  of  salmon,  herring,  stockfish,  and  similar  kinds  of 
fish.  They  have  also  abundance  of  timber,  and  principally 
of  the  pine,  fitted  for  the  masts  and  yards  of  ships  ;  on 
which  account  his  serene  majesty  anticipates  the  greatest 
advantage  from  this  country,  both  in  furnishing  timber  for 
his  shipping,  of  which  he  at  present  stands  in  great  need, 
and  also  from  the  men  who  inhabit  it,  who  appear  admira- 
bly fitted  to  endure  labour,  and  will  probably  turn  out  the 
best  slaves  which  have  been  discovered  up  to  this  time. 
This  arrival  appeared  to  me  an  event  of  which.it  was  right 
to  inform  you  ;  and  if  on  the  arrival  of  the  other  caravel  I 
receive  any  additional  information,  it  shall  be  transmitted 
to  you  in  like  manner."* 

Nothing  could  be  more  cruel  and  impolitic  than  the  con- 
duct of  Cortereal  in  seizing  and  carrying  into  captivity 
these  unfortunate  natives  ;  and  it  is  difficult  to  repress  our 
indignation  at  the  heartless  and  calculating  spirit  with 
which  the  Portuguese  monarch  entered  into  the  adventure, 
contemplating  the  rich  supplies  of  slaves  that  were  to  bo 
imported  from  this  new  country,  t     It  is  an  ingenious  con- 

*  Memoir  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  p.  239,  240, 

t  I  observe  that  in  the  History  of  Discovery  and  Adventure  in  the 
Polar  Seas,  Mr.  Murray  has  questioned  the  accuracy  of  the  opinion 
stated  by  the  biographer  of  Cabot,  "that  the  objects  of  Cortereal's 
second  voyage  were  timber  and  slaves."  The  letter,  however,  of  Pas- 
quiligi  seems  to  me  decisive  that,  if  not  the  sole,  they  were  at  least  very 
principal  objects  in  the  second  voyage 


NM. 


28 


CORTEREAL. 


iM 


jecturc  of  the  biographer  of  Cabot,  to  whose  research  we 
owe  our  acquaintunco  with  this  letter,  that  the  name  Term 
de  Laborador  waH  given  to  the  coast  by  the  Portuguese 
slave-mcrcliants  in  consequence  of  the  admirable  qualities 
of  the  natives  as  labourers,  and  in  anticipation  of  the  profits 
to  be  derived  from  a  monopoly  of  this  unchristian  traffic. 

But  distress  and  disatiter  pursued  the  speculation.     On 
the  15th  May,  1501,  Cortereal  departed  on  a  second  voy- 
age, with  a  determination  to  pursue  his  discovery,  and,  as 
we  may  plausibly  conjecture,  to  return  with  a  new  cargo 
of  slaves  and  timber ;  but  he  was  never  again  heard  of.     A 
similar  dark  and  unhappy  fate  befell  his  brother,  M':;hael 
de  Cortere.al,  who  sailed  with  two  ships  in  search  of  his 
lost  relative,  but  of  whom  no  accounts  ever  again  reached 
Portugal.     The  most  probable  conjecture  seems  to  be  that 
they  both  fell  victims  to  the  just  indignation  of  the  natives, 
whose  wives,  children,  and  fathers  had  been  stolen  away 
during  their  first  visit  to  the  coast.     "The  king,"  says 
Goes,  "  felt  deeply  the  loss  of  these  two  brothers,  so  much 
the  more  as  they  had  been  educated  by  him  ;  and  on  this 
account,  moved  by  royal  and  gracious  tenderness,  in  the 
following  year,  1603,  he  sent  at  his  own  expense  two  armed 
ships  in  search  of  them  ;  but  it  could  never  be  discovered 
where  or  in  what  manner  either  the  one  or  the  other  was 
lost,  on  Wiiictx  rtocount  this  province  of  Terra  Verde,  where 
It  was  supposed  the  two  brothers  perished,  was  called  the 
Land  of  the  Cortereals."*     The  description  of  the  inhabit- 
ants, as  given  by  this  contemporary  chronicler,  contains  a 
few  additional  particulars  to  those  mentioned  by  Pasquiligi. 
"  The  people  of  the  country,"  says  he,  "  are  very  barbarous 
and  uncivilized,  almost  equally  so  with  the  natives  of  Santa 
Cruz,  except  that  they  are  white,  and  so  tanned  by  the 
cold  that  the  white  colour  is  lost  as  they  grow  older,  and 
they  become  blackish.     They  are  of  the  middle  size,  very 
lightly  made,  and  great  archers.     Instead  of  javelins,  they 
employ  sticks  burnt  in  the  end,  which  they  use  as  missiles 
to  as  good  purpose  as  if  they  were  pointed  with  fine  steel. 
They  clothe  themselves  in  the  skins  of  beasts,  of  which 
there  are  great  plenty  in  the  country.     They  live  in  caverns 
of  rocks,  and  in  houses   shaped   like  nests  {choupanas), 

*  Damlano  Goes,  Cbronica  del  Rey  Dom.  Manuel,  part  i.  c.  60. 


UNFOUNDED  CLAIM  OP  THE  PORTUGUESE.   29 

They  have  no  laws,  believe  much  in  augurios,  live  in  mat- 
rimony, anil  are  very  jeah)Us  of  thtar  vvivoH, — in  which 
things  they  much  rrscnibh!  the  linphuulrrs,  who  also  in- 
habit a  norlbiTii  latitude  under  70°  to  85°,  subject  to  the 
kinjjs  of  Nciway  and  Sweden."* 

Upon  these  voyages  of  the  Cortercals  the  Portuguese 
attempted  to  establish  a  claim  to  the  discovery  of  Newfound- 
land and  the  adjacent  coasts  of  North  America,  though 
there  is  ample  historical  evidence  that  both  had  been  visited 
by  the  two  Cabots  three  years  prior  to  the  departure  of  Cor- 
tereal  from  Lisbon.  Maps  appear  to  have  l)een  forged  to 
support  this  unfair  assumption  ;  and  in  a  volume  published 
by  Madrignanon  at  Milan  in  15()H,  which  represents  itself 
to  be  a  translation  of  the  Italian  work  entitled  "  Paesi 
Nuovamente  Ritrovati,"  the  original  letter  of  Pasquiligi, 
describing  the  arrival  of  Gaspar  Cortereal,  is  disgracefully 
garbled  and  corrupted, — for  the  purpose,  as  it  would  seem, 
of  keeping  the  prior  discoveries  of  the  Cabots  in  the  back- 
ground, and  advancing  a  fabricated  claim  for  the  Portuguese.! 
It  is  unfortunate  that  this  disingenuous  process  of  poisoning 
the  sources  of  historic  truth  has  succeeded,  and  that  many 
authors,  not  aware  of  its  apocryphal  character,  which  has 
been  acutely  exposed  by  the  biographer  of  Cabot,  have 
given  a  pernicious  currency  to  the  fable  of  Madrignanon. 

About  fourteen  years  after  his  return  from  the  voyage  of 
1498,  we  have  seen  that  Sebastian  Cabot  was  induced  to 
enter  the  service  of  Spain  ;  but,  though  highly  esteemed  for 
his  eminent  abilities,  appointed  one  of  the  Council  of  the 
Indies  by  Ferdinand,  and  nominated  to  'he  command  of  an 
expedition  to  the  north  in  search  of  a  north-west  passage, 
he  appears  to  have  been  baffled  and  thwarted  in  his  plans  by 
the  jealousy  of  the  Spaniards,  and  was  at  last  compelled  to 
abandon  them  on  the  death  of  Ferdinand.  He  then  returned 
to  England  ;  and,  indefatigable  in  the  prosecution  of  that 
great  object  which  formed  the  prominent  pursuit  of  his  life, 
induced  Henry  VIII.  to  fit  out  a  small  squadron  for  the  dis- 
covery of  the  north-west  passage  to  India.  Unfortunately, 
however,  for  the  success  of  the  voyage.  Sir  Thomas  Pert, 
at  this  time  vice-admiral  of  England,  was  intrusted  with  the 

♦  Damiano  Goes,  Chronica  del  Rey  Doir;.  Manuel,  parti,  c.  60,  p.  87. 
t  Memoir  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  p.  251,  S52. 

C  2 


30     SEBASTIAN    CABOT  ENTERS    HUDSON'S    BA/. 


P 


supreme  command,  whose  want  of  courage  and  resolution 
was  the  cause  of  its  ultimate  failure.  The  object  of  Cabot 
was  to  proceed  by  Iceland  towards  the  American  coast, 
which  he  had  already  explored  as  far  as  56°,  according  to 
Ramusio,  or,  if  we  follow  Gomara,  68°  north.  This  would 
lead  him,  to  use  the  expression  of  Thome,*  by  the  back  of 
Newfoundland,  and  from  this  point,  pursuing  his  voyage  far- 
ther to  the  northward,  he  expected  to  find  a  passage  to  the 
kingdom  of  Cathay.  The  ships  accordingly  set  sail,  and 
on  the  11th  of  June  they  had  reached  the  67^°  of  northern 
latitude.  They  here  found  the  sea  open,  and  Cabot  enter- 
tained a  confident  hope  of  sailing  through  a  bay  or  "  fret," 
which  they  had  then  entered,  to  the  shores  of  the  Eastern 
Cathay,  when  a  mutiny  of  the  mariners,  and  the  faint- 
heartedness of  Sir  Thomas  Pert,  compelled  him,  much 
against  his  inclination,  to  desist  from  the  further  prosecution 
of  the  voyage,  and  return  home.f    From  the  high  latitude 

*  Letter  of  Robert  Thome.— Hakluyt,  edition  of  1589,  p.  250,—"  And 
if  they  will  take  their  course,  after  they  be  past  the  Pole,  towards  the 
Occident,  they  shall  goe  in  the  back  side  of  the  Newfoundland,  which 
of  late  was  discovered  by  your  grace's  subjects,  until  they  come  to  the 
back  side  and  south  seas  of  the  Indies  Occidental :  and  so,  continuing 
their  voyage,  they  may  return  thorow  the  Straight  of  Magellan  to  this 
country,  and  so  they  compass  also  the  world  by  that  way  ;  and  if  they 
goe  this  third  way,  and  after  they  be  past  the  Pole,  goe  right  toward 
the  Pole  Antarticke,  and  then  decline  towards  the  lands  and  islands 
situated  between  the  tropicks  and  under  the  equinoctial,  without  doubl 
they  shall  find  there  the  richest  lands  and  islands  of  the  world,  of  gold, 
precious  stones,  balmis,  spices,  and  other  thinges  that  we  here  esteem 
most,  which  come  out  of  strange  countries,  and  may  return  the  same 
way.*'  See  also  Gomara,  as  quoted  in  the  Memoir  of  Sebastian  Cabot, 
p.  21. 

t  It  is  evidently  to  this  third  voyage  that  the  passage  in  Ramusio,  vol. 
iii.  p.  4,  of  the  "  Discorso  sopra  U  terzo  volume,"  applies.  Memoir  of 
Cabot,  p.  117.  It  is  valuable,  as  this  author,  though  he  appears  by  mis- 
take to  have  put  the  name  of  Henry  VII.  for  that  of  Henry  VIII.,  quoted 
in  it  a  letter  which  many  years  before  he  had  received  from  Sebastian 
Cabot  himself.  He  (Ramusio)  in  speaking  of  the  discoveries  subsequently 
made  by  Verazzano,  and  of  the  country  of  New-France,  remarks,  tliatol 
this  land  it  is  not  certain  as  yet  whether  it  is  joined  to  the  continent  of 
Florida  and  New-Spain,  or  whether  it  is  separated  into  islands,  and  may 
thus  admit  of  a  passage  to  the  kingdom  of  Cathay.  "Come,"  he  pro- 
ceeds, "  come  mi  fii  scritto  gia  niolli  anni  sono,  dal  Signor  Sebastian 
Gabotto  nostro  Vinitiano  hnomo  di  grande  esperienza  et  raro  nelF  arte 
del  navigare,  e  nella  scienza  di  cosmografia  :  il  quale  avea  navicato  dis* 
opra  di  f^iuesta  terra  della  Nuova-Francia  a  spese  del  Re  Henrico  VII. 
d'lnghilterra  e  me  diciva,  come  essendo  egli  andato  lungamente  alia  volts 
de  poiiente  e  quarta  di  Maestro  dieiro  queste  Isole  poste  lungo  la  delta  terra 


I 


VERAZZANOS    VOYAGE. 


81 


reached  by  this  enterprising  seaman,  as  well  as  from  the  ex- 
pressions employed  by  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  in  speaking 
of  the  voyage,  it  appears  certain  that  Cabot  had  entered  the 
great  bay  afterward  explored  by  Hudson,  and  since  known 
by  his  name.*  It  is  an  extraordinary  fact,  therefore,  but  it 
rests  upon  evidence  which  it  would  be  difficult  to  c  ntro- 
vert,  that  ninety  years  before  the  first  voyage  of  Hudson 
he  had  been  anticipated  in  his  principal  discovery  by  an 
early  navigator,  to  whose  merits  the  world  have  done  little 
justice. 

While  the  Portuguese,  the  Spaniards,  and  the  English 
had  early  entered  upon  the  career  .of  discovery,  the  French, 
a  people  undoubtedly  of  the  highest  genius  and  enterprise, 
evinced  an  unaccountable  inactivity  upon  this  great  subject, 
and  appeared  to  view  with  indifference  the  brilliant  suc- 
cesses of  other  nations.  At  length  Francis  I.,  a  monarch 
who  was  deeply  smit  with  the  love  of  glory,  caught  the  en- 
thusiasm for  maritime  discovery,  and,  eager  to  cope  upon 
equal  terms  with  his  great  rival  Charles  V.,  fitted  out  a 
squadron  of  four  ships,  the  command  of  which  he  intrusted 
to  Giovanni  Verazzano,  a  Florentine  navigator  of  great  skill 
and  celebrity.  The  destination  of  the  armament,  however, 
appears  to  have  embraced  the  purposes  of  plunder  as  well 
as  of  discovery  ;  and  in  a  cruise  three  of  his  vessels  were 
80  much  damaged  in  a  storm,  that  they  were  compelled,  for 
the  purpose  of  refitting,  to  run  into  a  port  in  Brittany,  from 
which,  impatient  of  the  delay,  the  admiral,  in  a  single  vessel 
named  the  Dauphin,  set  sail  with  a  determination  to  prose- 
cute discoveries.     He  first  steered  his  course  for  M adeira» 

flni  a  gradi  sessanta  sette  e  mezzo  sntto  il  nostro  pt>1o  a  xi.  di  Guigno  e  tro* 
vandosi  il  mare  aperto  e  senza  impedimento  alcuno,  pensava  fermamentt 
per  quella  via  di  poter  passare  alia  volta  del  Cataio  Orientale,  e  I'avrebbe 
fatto,  86  la  malignita  del  padrone  e  de  marineri  soUevati  non  Thavessero 
fiitto  tornare  a  dietro."    This  discourse  is  dated  20th  June,  1553. 

*  Hakluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  16.  It  must  be  recollected  that  Sir  Humphrey 
Gilbert  had  the  advantage  of  having  examined  the  charts  or  Sebastian 
Cabot,  which,  he  tells  us,  were  then  to  be  seen  in  the  queen's  privy 
gallery  at  Whitehall.  It  has  also  been  acutely  remarked  by  a  late  writer 
(Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  29),  that  Ortelius,  who  died  nine  years  before  Hud- 
son undertook  his  first  voyage,  in  the  map  of  America,  published  In 
his  great  geographical  work,  the  "Theatrum  Orbis  Terrarum,"  has  laid 
down  the  form  of  Hudson's  Bay  with  singular  precision.  Now  we  know 
by  the  list  of  authorities  cited  by  Ortelius,  that  he  was  in  possession  of 
a  map  of  the  world  by  Sebastian  Cabot.  The  source,  therefore,  fVoin 
wbich  he  derived  his  information  is  evident. 


32 


VERAZZANO. 


\ 


and  thence  sailed  in  a  westerly  direction  for  twenty-five 
days,  making  in  that  time  500  leagues.  A  storm  now 
attacked  him,  in  which  his  little  vessel  had  nearly  perished, 
but  he  at  last  weathered  the  gale,  and  proceeding  onwards 
for  400  leagues,  arrived  upon  a  coast  that,  according  to  his 
own  account,  had  never  before  been  visited.*  It  is  probable 
that  this  shore  belonged  either  to  North  or  South  Carolina  ;t 
and  the  appearance  of  many  large  fires  on  the  beach  con- 
vinced him  that  the  country  was  inhabited.  Verazzano, 
however,  in  vain  sought  for  a  port ;  and  after  exploring  the 
coast  both  to  the  south  and  north  without  success,  he  was 
compelled  to  anchor  in  the  open  sea,  after  which  he  sent  his 
boat  on  shore  to  open  an  intercourse  with  the  natives.  This 
he  effected  not  without  some  difficulty  ;  for  as  soon  as  the 
French  landed  the  savages  fled  in  great  trepidation  ;  yet 
they  soon  after  stole  back,  exhibiting  signs  of  much  wonder 
and  curiosity.  At  last  being  convinced  that  they  had 
nothing  to  fear,  they  completely  recovered  their  confidence, 
and  not  only  brought  provisions  to  the  French,  but  assisted 
them  in  drawing  their  boat  on  shore,  and  carefully  and  mi- 
nutely scrutinized  every  thing  belonging  to  the  vessels  and 
the  crew.  They  admired  the  white  skin  of  the  strangers, 
handled  their  dress,  and  exhibited  the  utmost  astonishment 
and  dehght.  They  themselves  were  a  handsome  race  of 
people,  their  eyes  dark  and  large,  their  expression  bold,  open, 
and  cheerful  ;  their  chests  were  broad,  and  they  combined 
middle  stature  and  symmetry  of  limbs  with  great  nimbleness 
and  swiftness  of  foot.  Their  colour  was  tawny,  not  unlike 
,  the  Saracens,  and  they  wore  their  hair,  which  was  black 
and  thick,  tied  behind  their  head  in  a  little  tail,  and  some- 
times ornamented  with  a  garland  of  birds'  feathers.  Their 
bodies  were  not  disfigured  or  tattooed  in  any  way,  and  they 
Walked  about  perfectly  naked,  except  that  they  wore  short 
aprons  of  furs  fastened  round  their  middle  by  a  girdle  of 
woven  grass.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  coast  the 
country  was  sandy,  rising  into  gentle  undulations  ;  as  they 
proceeded  it  became  more  elevated,  and  was  covered  by 
noble  woods,  consisting,  not  of  the  usual  forest-trees,  but 


*  Ramusio,  Viaggi,  vol.  iii.  p.  420.    "  Dovi  scopsimmo  una  terra  nuova, 
non  piu  da  gl'antichi  ne  da  modejni  vista." 
f  "  8ta  questa  terra  in  gradi  34°."— Ramusld,  Vol.  ill.  p.  420. 


k 


Bnty-five 
rm  now 
serished, 
onwards 
ng  to  his 
probable 
arolina  ;t 
ach  con- 
3razzano, 
oring  the 
i,  he  was 
e  sent  his 
es.    This 
)n  as  the 
tion;  yet 
;h  wonder 
they   had 
onfidence, 
it  assisted 
ly  and  mi- 
essels  and 
strangers, 
lonishment 
le  race  of 
lold,  open, 
combined 
limbleness 
[not  unlike 
as  black 
land  some- 
's.    Their 
and  they 
ore  short 
girdle  of 
coast  the 
;  as  they 
ivered  by 
rees,  but 

^erra  nuova, 
20. 


VERAZZANO. 


33 


of  the  palm,  laurel,  cypress,  and  others  then  unknown  in 
Europe,  which  grew  to  a  great  height,  and  dilTused  a  de- 
licious perfume  that  was  discerned  far  out  at  sea.  "  The 
land  also,"  says  Verazzano  in  his  letter  to  Francis  I.,  "  is 
full  of  many  animals,  as  stags,  deer,  and  hares,  which  were 
seen  sporting  in  the  forests,  and  frequenting  the  banks  of 
pleasant  lakes  and  rivers ;  nor  were  there  wanting  great 
plenty  and  variety  of  birds  of  game,  fitted  to  afford  delight- 
ful recreation  for  the  sportsman.  The  sky  was  clear,  the 
air  wholesome  and  temperate,  the  prevalent  wind  blowing 
from  the  west,  and  the  sea  calm  and  placid.  In  short,  a 
country  more  full  of  amenity  could  not  well  be  imagined."** 
An  excellent  author  and  navigator  thinks  it  probable  that 
the  spot  where  Verazzano  first  landed  was  on  the  coast  of 
Georgia,  near  the  present  town  of  Savannah.f 

From  this  he  proceeded  along  the  shore,  which  turned  to 
the  eastward  and  appeared  thickly  inhabited,  but  so  low  and 
open  that  landing  in  such  a  surf  was  impossible.  In  this 
perplexity  a  young  sailor  undertook  to  swim  to  land  and  ac- 
cost the  natives ;  but  when  he  saw  the  crowds  which 
thronged  the  beach  he  repented  of  his  purpose,  and  although 
within  a  few  yards  of  the  landing-place,  his  courage  failed, 
and  he  attempted  to  turn  back.  At  this  moment  the  water 
only  reached  his  waist ;  but,  overcome  with  terror  and  ex- 
haustion, he  had  scarcely  strength  to  cast  his  presents  and 
trinkets  upon  the  beach,  when  a  high  wave  cast  him  stupi- 
fied  and  senseless  upon  the  shore.  The  savages  ran  imme- 
diately to  his  assistance,  and  carried  him  to  a  little  distance 
from  the  sea,  where  it  was  some  time  before  he  recovered 
his  recollection ;  and  great  was  his  terror  when  he  found 
himself  entirely  in  their  power.  •StrGtelilng  his  hands  to- 
wards the  ship,  he  uttered  a  piercing  shriek,  to  which  his 
friends  of  the  New  World  replied  by  raising  a  loud  yell,  in- 
tended, as  he  afterward  found,  to  encourage  him.  But,  if 
♦u:«   ^j^g   sufficiently  alarming,  their   further  proceedings 


this 


proved  still  more  formidable.  They  carried  him  to  the  foot 
of  a  hill,  turned  his  face  towards  the  sun,  kindled  a  large 
fire,  and  stripped  him  naked.  No  doubt  was  now  left  in  the 
mind  of  the  unhappy  man  that  they  were  about  to  offer  him 

*  Ramusio,  vol.  iii,  p.  420. 

t  Forster's.Discoveries  in  the  North,  p.  433. 


I 


Ji 


i 


asaer 


34 


VERAZZANO. 


it 


as  a  sacrifice  to  tnc  sun  ;  and  his  companions  on  board,  who 
watched  the  progress  of  the  adventure,  unable,  from  the  vio- 
lence of  the  sea,  to  lend  him  assistance,  were  of  the  same 
opinion.  They  thought,  to  use  Verazzano's  own  words, 
that  the  natives  were  going  to  roast  and  eat  him.*  But 
their  fears  were  soon  turned  into  gratitude  and  astonish- 
ment ;  for  they  only  dried  his  clothes,  warmed  him,  and 
showed  hitn  every  mark  of  kindness,  caressing  and  patting 
his  white  skin  ;  and  on  observing  that  he  still  trembled  and 
looked  suspicious,  they  assisted  him  to  dress,  conducted  him 
to  the  beach,  tenderly  embraced  him,  and  pointing  to  the 
vessel,  removed  to  a  little  distance  to  show  that  he  was  at 
liberty  to  return  to  his  friends.  This  he  did  by  swimming 
to  the  ship's  boat,  which  had  been  put  out  to  receive  him, 
followed  by  the  kind  gestures  of  the  savages,  who  gazed 
after  him  till  they  saw  him  safe  among  his  friends.  The 
spot  where  Verazzano  found  this  amiable  people  is  conjec- 
tured by  Forster  to  have  been  somewhere  between  New- 
Jersey  and  Staten  Island. 

From  this  the  Florentine  sailed  onward,  observing  the  coast 
trending  to  the  northward,  and  after  a  run  of  fifty  leagues 
came  to  anchor  off  a  delightful  country  covered  with  the  finest 
forests.  The  trees,  although  equally  luxuriant,  did  not  emit 
the  same  perfume  as  those  before  seen ;  but  the  region  was 
rich,  covered  with  grass,  and  thickly  peopled,  although  the 
natives  appeared  more  timid  than  the  last,  and  avoided  all 
intercourse.  The  sailors,  however,  discovered  and  seized  a 
family  who  had  concealed  themselves  in  the  underwood, 
consisting  of  an  old  woman,  a  young  girl  of  a  tall  and  hand- 
some figure,  and  six  children.  Tho  two  younger  of  the 
little  ones  were  squatted  on  the  shoulders  of  the  old  woman, 
and  another  child  hung  behind  her  back,  while  the  girl  was 
similarly  loaded.  On  being  approached  both  the  females 
shrieked  loudly ;  but,  having  succeeded  in  pacifying  them, 
the  sailors  understood  by  their  signs  that  all  the  men  had 
escaped  to  the  woods  on  the  appearance  of  the  ships.  Much 
persuasion  was  now  used  to  induce  them  to  go  on  board  ; 
but  although  the  elderly  lady  showed  symptoms  of  acquies- 
cence, and  eagerly  ate  the  food  which  was  offered  her,  no 
entreaties  could  soften   the  obstinacy  and  rage  of  the 


Ramusio,  vol.  iii.  p.  421. 


*  ', 


VERAZZANO. 


85 


rd,  who 

the  vio- 
le  same 
L  words, 
.*     But 
istonish- 
iim,  and 
I  patting 
ibled  and 
icted  him 
ig  to  the 
le  was  at 
,wim_ming 
eive  him, 
/ho  gazed 
ids.     The 
is  conjec- 
een  New- 

ig  the  coast 
fty  leagues 
th  the  finest 
lid  not  emit 
region  was 
though  the 
avoided  all 
nd  seized  a 
underwood, 
I  and  hand- 
nger  of  the 
old  woman, 
he  girl  was 
the  females 
fying  them, 
Le  men  had 
lips.    Much 
on  board ; 
of  acquies- 
•ed  her,  no 
age  of  tu6 


younger.  She  uttered  piercing  cries,  cast  the  meat  indig- 
nantly on  the  ground,  and  rendered  the  task  of  dragging 
her  through  the  thick  woods  so  tedious  and  distressing,  that 
they  were  obliged  to  desist  and  leave  her,  only  carrying  with 
them  a  little  boy,  who  could  make  no  resistance.*  The 
people  of  this  country  possessed  fairer  complexions  than 
those  whom  they  had  just  left,  and  were  clad  with  large 
leaves  sewed  together  with  threads  of  wild  hemp.  Their 
common  food  was  pulse,  but  they  subsisted  also  by  fishing,  and 
were  very  expert  in  catching  birds  with  gins.  Their  bows 
were  made  of  hard  wood,  their  arrows  of  canes  headed  with 
fish-bone,  and  their  boats  constructed  of  one  large  tree  hol- 
lowed by  fire,  for  they  appeared  to  have  no  instruments  of 
iron  or  other  metal.  Wild  vines  crept  up  the  trunks  of  the 
trees,  hanging  in  rich  festoons  from  the  branches,  and  the 
banks  and  meadows  were  covered  with  roses,  lilies,  violets, 
and  many  sorts  of  herbs  diflerent  from  those  of  Europe, 
yielding  a  fresh  and  delightful  fragrance. 

Verazzano  now  proceeded  one  hundred  leagues  farther  to  a 
sheltered  and  beautiful  bay  surrounded  by  gently  rising  hills, 
and  discovered  a  large  river,  which  from  its  depth  seemed  navi- 
gable to  a  considerable  distance.  Fearful,  however,  of  any 
accident,  they  ascended  it  in  boats ;  and  the  voyage  con- 
ducted them  through  a  country  so  full  of  sweetness  and 
attraction  that  they  left  it  with  much  regret.f  Prosecuting 
their  discoveries  fifty  leagues  eastward,  they  reached  another 
island  of  a  triangular  shape,  covered  with  rich  wood,  and 
rising  into  gentle  hills,  which  reminded  them  of  Rhodes 
both  in  its  form  and  general  aspect.  A  contrary  wind,  how- 
ever, rendered  it  impossible  to  land,  and  pursuing  their 
course  about  fifteen  leagues  farther  along  the  coast,  they 
found  a  port  where  there  was  an  excellent  anchorage.  Here 
they  were  soon  visited  by  the  natives,  who  came  in  a  squad- 
ron of  twenty  boats,  and  at  first  cautiously  kept  at  the  dis- 
tance of  fifty  paces.  Observing,  however,  the  friendly  ges- 
tures of  the  strangers,  they  ventured  nearer,  and  when  the 
French  threw  them  bells,  mirrors,  and  other  trinkets,  they 
raised  a  loud  and  simultaneous  shout  expressive  of  joy  and 
security,  no  longer  hesitating  to  row  their  boats  to  the  ship's 
side  and  come   aboard.     They  are  described  by  Verazzano 


I 


M 


I 


*  Kamusio,  vol.  iii.  p.  421. 


t  Ibid. 


I  im  i^m"    m^ 


96 


VERAZZANO. 


'if 


1 


t 


in  his  account  of  the  voyage  sent  to  Francis  I.,  as  the  finest 
and  handsomest  race,  and  the  most  civilized  in  their  man' 
ners,  of  any  he  had  yet  met  in  America.  Their  colour  was 
fairer  than  that  of  the  more  southern  people,  and  in  the 
symmetry  of  their  forms,  and  the  simplicity  and  graceful- 
ness of  their  attitudes,  they  almost  vied  with  the  antique. 
They  soon  became  exceedingly  friendly  and  intimate,  and 
conducted  the  French  into  the  interior  of  the  country,  which 
they  found  variegated  with  wood,  and  more  delightful  than 
can  be  easily  described.  Adapted  for  every  sort  of  cultiva- 
tion, whether  of  com,  vines,  or  olives,  it  was  interspersed 
with  plains  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  leagues  in  length,  open 
and  unencumbered  with  trees,  and  of  such  fertility,  that 
whatever  fruit  might  be  sown  was  certain  to  produce  a 
rich  and  abundant  return.  They  afterward  entered  the 
woods,  which  were  of  great  size,  and  so  thick  that  a  large 
army  might  have  been  concealed  in  them.  The  trees  con- 
sisted of  oaks  and  cypresses,  besides  other  species  unknown 
to  Europe.  They  fonnd  also  apples,  parsley,  plums,  and 
filberts,  and  many  other  kinds  of  fruit  diflferent  from  those 
of  Italy.  They  saw  likewise  many  animals,  such  as  harts, 
roes,  wolves,  and  stags,  which  the  natives  caught  with 
snares,  and  destroyed  with  bows  and  arrows,  their  principal 
weapons  of  offence.  The  arrows  were  made  with  great 
neatness,  and  at  the  point  instead  of  iron  they  inserted  flints, 
jaspers,  hard  marble,  and  other  kinds  of  cut  stones.  These 
they  also  made  use  of  in  felling  trees,  and  in  excavating 
their  boats,  which  with  great  skill  were  made  of  a  single 
trunk,  yet  large  enough  to  hold  ten  or  twelve  men  commo- 
diously.  Their  oars  were  short  and  broad  at  the  extremity, 
which  they  plied  in  the  sea  without  any  accident  happening, 
trusting  solely  to  their  strength  of  arm  and  skilful  manage- 
ment, and  seeming  able  to  go  at  almost  any  rate  they 
pleased.  Their  houses  were  constructed  in  a  circular  shape, 
ten  or  twelve  paces  in  circuit,  built  of  boards,  and  separated 
from  each  other  without  any  attention  paid  to  architectural 
arrangement,  covered  with  tiles  made  of  clay,  of  excellent 
workmanship,  and  effectually  protected  from  the  wind  and 
rain.*  On  one  subject  alone  they  showed  suspicion,  being 
extremely  jealous  of  the  least  intercourse  between  th« 


*  Ramusio,  vol.  tii.  p.  432. 


» 


VERAZZANO. 


3T 


,eiT  maft- 
oloutwaa 
^d  in  the 
araceful- 
5  "antique. 

mate,  an  J 
jtTy,  which 

rbtful  than 
'of  cultiva- 
nterspetsed 
jngth,  open 
5Ttility,  that 
•o  produce  a 
entered  the 
:  that  a  large 

tie  trees  con- 
:ies  unknown 

,    plums,  and 
i  Yrom  those        ■ 
suchashart^       | 
f  caught  Wi^       I 
their  principal      ,v 
de  with  great 
li„,ertedmnU, 
stones.    These 
in  excavating 
,de  of  a  single 
e  men  coinmo- 
t  the  extremity, 

Um  manage- 
'  any  rate  they 
,  circular  shape, 
.  and  separated 
'to  architectural 
Hay,  of  excellent 
P'the  wind  and 
'Suspicion,  being 
Le  between  th« 


French  and  their  women.  These  they  would  on  no  per- 
suasion allo'v  to  enter  the  ship  ;  and  on  one  occasion,  while 
the  iiinjT  came  on  board,  and  spent  some  hourti  in  curiously 
examining  every  part  of  the  vessel,  his  royal  consort  was 
left  with  her  female  attendants  in  a  boat  at  some  distance, 
strictly  watched  and  guarded.* 

The  French  now  bade  adieu  to  this  kind  people,  and  pur- 
sued their  discoveries  for  one  hundred  and  fifty  leagues,  ex- 
ploring a  coast  which  extended  first  towards  the  east  and 
afterward  to  the  north.  The  country  still  presenter]  an 
agreeable  and  inviting  aspect,  although  the  climate  became 
colder,  and  the  regions  along  which  they  passed  more  hilly. 
A  progress  of  other  fifty  leagues  brought  them  to  a  more 
mountainous  district  than  any  yet  seen,  covered  with  dark 
and  dense  forests,  and  possessed  by  a  people  whose  habits 
and  temper  seemed  to  partake  of  the  severer  nature  of  their 
country.  On  attempting  to  open  an  intercourse,  Verazzano 
found  them  as  fierce  and  sullen  as  those  with  whom  he  had 
lately  dealt  were  agreeable  and  generous.  Twenty-five  of 
the  crew  who  landed  were  received  with  a  shower  of 
arrows ;  and  although  the  exhibition  of  articles  of  barter 
overcame  their  scruples,  and  tempted  them  to  agree  to  an 
interchange  of  commodities,  the  manner  in  which  this  was 
effected  evinced  a  striking  mixture  of  avidity  and  suspicion. 
They  came  down  to  the  beach,  choosing  the  spot  where  the 
surf  was  breaking  most  violently,  and  insisted  that  the 
French  boat  should  remain  on  the  other  side ;  a  rope  was 
then  passed  from  it  to  the  shore,  and  the  different  articles 
were  swung  along  it.  Strings  of  beads,  toys,  or  mirrors 
they  utterly  despised ;  but  eagerly  received  knives,  fishing- 
hooks,  swords,  saws,  or  any  thing  in  the  shape  of  cutting- 
metal  to  be  used  in  war  or  in  the  chase,  though  such  was 
their  savage  temper,  that  during  the  process  of  exchange 
they  expressed  their  aversion  to  the  strangers  by  uncouth 
gestures  of  contempt  and  derision.  It  seems  probable  that 
the  country  now  for  the  first  time  visited  by  Europeans 
was  the  present  state  of  Maine  ;  as  we  are  told  by  Ve- 
razzano,  that  a  further    rim  of  fifty  leagues   along   the 

*  This  country,  according  to  Verazzano,  was  situated  in  i\^°  of  lati- 
tude (Ramusio,  vol.  iit.  p.  422),  which,  if  correct,  would  |>oint  it  out  as 
the  preaieat  flourishii]];  state  of  Massacbusette. 

D 


j 


7P^ 


i    ■■% 


88 


VERAZZANO. 


coast  brought  him  to  a  cluster  of  thirty  islanda  separated  by 
narrow  channels, — a  description  which  points  out,  in  precise 
terms,  the  Bay  of  Penobscot.* 

From  this  point  he  pursued  his  indefatigable  course  for  one 
hundred  and  fifty  leagues  farther,  till  he  reached  the  land 
already  discovered,  as  he  says,  by  the  Britons  in  the  lati- 
tude of  60°,  which  is  evidently  Newfoundland.  Here  his 
provisions  began  to  fail,  and  thinking  it  prudent  to  sail 
for  Franco,  he  reached  honje  in  safety  in  the  month  of 
July,  1524. 

Verazzano  had  thus  completed  the  survey  of  a  line  of 
coast  extending  for  seven  hundred  leagues,  and  embracing 
the  whole  of  Ihe  United  States,  along  with  a  large  portion 
of  British  America.  It  was  undoubtedly  an  enterprise  of 
great  magnitude  and  splendour,  and  deserves  to  be  carefully 
recorded,  not  only  as  comprehending  one  of  the  widest 
ranges  of  early  discovery,  but  as  making  us  for  the  first  time 
acquainted  with  that  noble  country  whose  history  is  so  im- 
portant, and  whose  destinies,  even  after  a  progress  un- 
rivalled in  rapidity,  appear  at  this  moment  only  in  their  in- 
fancy. The  Florentine  gave  to  the  whole  region  which  he 
had  discovered  the  name  of  New-France  ;  he  then  laid  be- 
fore the  king  a  plan  for  completing  his  survey  of  the  coast, 
penetrating  into  the  interior,  and  establishing  a  colony  ;  and 
he  appears  to  have  met  with  encouragement  from  Francis  I., 
who  embraced  his  proposals  for  colonization.  From  this 
moment,  however,  his  history  is  involved  in  obscurity. 
Hakluyt  afhrms  that  he  performed  three  voyages  to  North 
America,  and  gave  a  map  of  the  coast  to  Henry  VHI.  The 
biographer  of  Cabot  asserts,  that  he  was  the  "  Piedmontese 
pilot"  who  was  slain  on  the  coast  of  America  in  1527,t  not 
aware  that  Verazzano  was  a  Florentine  and  alive  in  1537 ; 
and  Ramusio  could  not  ascertain  the  particulars  of  his  last 
expedition,  or  even  discover  in  what  year  it  took  place.  All 
that  is  certainly  known  is,  that  it  proved  fatal  to  this  great 
navigator.  Having  landed  incautiously  upon  the  American 
coast,  he  and  his  party  were  surrounded  and  cut  to  pieces 

*  Murray's  North  America,  vol.  i.  p.  79,  Tlie  veracity  of  the  Floren- 
tine navigator,  in  his  description  of  the  fF^rocious  habits  of  the  natives, 
Is  strikingly  corrotiorated  by  the  determined  and  rancorous  hostility 
evinced  afterward  by  the  Indians  of  this  district  in  opposing  every 
att^pt  at  settleinfent^        •  ^       ^      .     . 

t  nefflMr  of  daboi,  p.  278. 


i 


m 


cartier; 


89 


by  the  savages  ;  after  which  they  barbarously  devoured  them 
in  the  sight  of  their  companions.* 

The  death  of  Verazzano  appears  to  have  thrown  a  damp 
over  the  further  prosecution  of  discovery  by  the  court  of 
France  ;  but  at  length,  after  an  interval  often  years,  Jacques 
Cartier,  an  enterprising  and  able  mariner  of  St.  Malo,  was 
chosen  by  the  Sieur  de  Melleraye,  vice-admiral  of  France, 
to  conduct  a  voyage  to  Newfoundland,  which,  since  its  dis- 
covery by  Cabot,  had  been  seldom  visited,  and  was  impcr* 
fectly  known.  Cartier  departed  from  St.  Malo  on  the  20th 
of  April,  1534,  with  two  ships,  each  of  60  tons  burden,  and 
having  on  board  a  well-appointed  crew  of  sixty-one  men.f 
The  voyage  appears  to  have  been  limited  to  a  survey  of  the 
northern  coast  of  Newfoundland,  of  which  he  gives  a 
minute  description,  dwelling  particularly  on  the  zoological 
features  of  the  country.  He  found  the  land  in  most  parts 
extremely  wild  and  barren,  "  insomuch  that  he  did  not 
see  a  cartload  of  good  earth  ;  and  the  inhabitants  were  of 
stout  make,  but  wild  and  unruly."  They  wore  their  hair 
tied  on  the  top  like  a  bunch  of  hay,  fixed  with  a  wooden 
bodkin,  and  ornamented  with  birds'  feathers.  Like  their 
companions  whom  Cabot  had  described,  they  were  clothed 

*  Such  is  the  account  of  Ramusio  in  his  Discourse  upon  New-France, 
vol.  iii.  p.  417.  But  Cardenas,  in  a  worlt  entitled  "  Ensajo  Cronolosico 
para  la  Historia  de  la  Floridas"  (p.  8),  has  comnfiitted  an  error  similar  to 
that  of  the  writer  of  Cabot's  life.  He  believes  that  Verazzano  was  the 
same  as  Juan  the  Florentine,  a  pirate  in  the  service  of  France,  who  was 
taken  by  the  Spaniards  in  1524,  and  hnnged.  The  evidence  v^hich  over- 
turns the  theories  of  both  these  authors  is  to  be  found  in  a  letter  of 
Aanihal  Caro.  rjuoted  byTiraboschi,  Sroriadella  Letteramra  Ttal., vol.,  vii. 
part  i.  p.  -Jei,  262,  from  which  it  appears  that  Verazzano  was  alive  in 
1537.  Lettere  Famiiiari  del.  Comm,  Annibal  Caro,  vol,  i.  p.  11.  In  his 
great  worii,  Tirahoschi  has  collected  all  that  is  known  regarding  the  life 
of  this  eminent  discoverer;  but  this  ah  is  little  or  nothing.  He  waa 
born  about  the  year  1485  ;  his  father  was  Pierandrea  Verazzano,  a  noble 
Florentine,  his  mother  Fiametta  Capelli.  Of  his  youth,  and  for  what 
reasons  he  entered  into  the  service  of  Francis  I.,  nothing  is  known.  Tho 
only  published  work  of  Verazzano  is  the  narrative  in  Ramusio,  addressed 
to  Francis  I.,  written  with  much  simplicity  and  elegance.  But  in  the 
Slrozzi  Library  at  Florence  is  preserved  a  manuscript,  in  which  he  is  said 
to  give,  with  great  minutenes.'^,  a  description  cff  all  the  countries  which 
he  had  visited  during  his  voyage,  and  from  which,  says  Tirahoschi,  we 
derive  the  Intelligence  that  he  had  formed  the  design  of  attempting  a 
passage  through  the.se  seas  to  the  Ea.st  Indies.  It  is  much  to  be  desired 
that  some  Italian  scholar  would  favour  the  world  witb  the  publicatioa 
of  this  MS.  of  Verazzano. 

t  Ramusio,  vol.  iii,  p.  435. 


CARTIER. 


M 


:! 


in  beasts*  skins,  and  ornamented  their  bodies  by  painting 
them  with  roan-coIourR.  They  paddled  about  in  boats  made 
of  the  bark  of  birch-trees,  in  which  they  carried  on  a  con- 
stant trade  of  fishing,  and  caught  great  numbers  of  seals. 
A  Aer  having  almost  circumnavigated  Newfoundland,  Oartier 
stood  in  towards  the  continent,  and  anchored  in  a  bav  ^vhich, 
from  the  extreme  heat,  was  denominated  Baye  du  Uhnleur. 
The  description  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  spot  is  striking 
and  interesting.  "  Taking  our  way,"  says  he,  "  along  the 
coast,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  savages,  who  stood  on  the 
borders  of  a  lake  in  the  j^  grounds,  where  they  had  lighted 
their  fires,  which  raised  a  |[reat  smoke.  We  went  towards 
them,  and  found  that  rn  arm  of  the  sea  ran  into  the  lake, 
into  which  we  pushec-  with  our  boats.  Upon  this  the 
savages  approached  in  one  of  their  little  barks,  bringing 
along  with  them  pieces  of  roasted  seals,  which  th  v  placed 
upon  wooden  boards,  and  afterward  retired,  making  signs 
that  this  was  intended  as  a  present  for  us.  We  immediately 
put  two  men  ashore,  with  hatchets,  knives,  garlands  for  the 
head,  and  such-like  wiires.  On  seeing  these  articles  they 
appeared  much  delighted,  and  crowded  to  the  bank  where 
we  were,  paddling  their  barks,  and  bringing  skins  and 
other  articles,  which  they  meant  to  exchange  for  our  mer- 
chandise. Their  number,  including  men,  women,  and 
children,  was  upwards  of  three  hundred.  Some  <of  the 
women,  who  would  not  venture  nearer,  stood  up  to  the 
knees  in  water,  singing  and  dancing.  Others,  who  had 
passed  over,  came  to  us  with  great  familiarity,  rubbing 
our  arms  with  their  hands,  which  they  afterward  lifted  up 
to  heaven,  singing  all  the  while  and  making  signs  of  joy  ; 
such  at  last  was  their  friendliness  and  security,  that  they 
bartered  away  every  thing  they  had,  and  stood  beside  us 
quite  naked  ;  for  they  scrupled  not  to  give  us  all  that  was 
on  them,  and  indeed  their  whole  wardrobe  was  not  much  to 
speak  of.  It  was  evident  that  this  people  might  be  wiliiout 
difficulty  converted  to  our  faith.  They  migrate  from  place 
to  place,  and  subsist.themselves  by  fishing.  Their  country 
is  warmer  than  Spain,  and  as  beautiful  as  can  be  imagined, — 
level,  and  covered  even  in  the  smallest  spots  with  trees,  and 
this  although  the  soil  is  sandy.  It  is  full  also  of  wild  corn, 
virhich  hath  an  ear  similar  to  rye.  We  saw  many  beautiful 
meadows  full  of  rich  grass,  and  lakes  where  there  were 


"-F- 


CARTIER*8    SECOND   VOYAGE. 


41 


plenty  of  salmon.  The  sfivages  called  a  hatchet  cochi, 
and  a  knife  bacon."*  All  the  navigators  who  had  hitherto 
visited  Newfoundland,  on  reaching  its  northernmost  point, 
appear  to  have  sailed  across  the  Straits  of  Belleisle  to  Cape 
Charles,  upon  the  coast  of  Labrador ;  but  the  course  of 
C.irtier  led  him  through  the  straits  into  the  great  Gulf  of  St. 
Ijawrence,  now  for  the  fust  time  visited  by  any  European. 
His  predecessor,  Verazzano,  after  reaching  the  shore  of  the 
Bay  of  Fundy,  had  probably  sailed  along  the  coast  of  Nova 
Scotia  until  he  reached  Cape  Breton.  Cartier,  on  the  con- 
trary, saw  before  him  a  wide  and  extensive  field  of  discovery 
to  the  west,  which  he  pursued  for  some  time,  directing  his 
course  along  the  coast  of  the  Bay  of  St.  Lawrence  ;  but,  as 
the  season  was  far  advanced,  and  the  weather  became  pre- 
carious, he  determined  to  reserve  a  more  complete  exami- 
nation of  this  unknown  country  for  a  second  voyage,  and 
returned  safely  to  France,  coming  to  anchor  in  the  port  of 
St.  Malo  upon  the  5th  of  September,  1534.+ 

Having  been  received  with  favour  and  distinction.  Car- 
tier,  after  a  short  interval,  embarked  upon  a  second  voy- 
age. His  squadron  consisted  of  three  ships, — the  Great 
Hermina,  of  which  Cartier  himself  was  master,  being  a 
vessel  of  about  120  tons ;  the  Little  Hermina  of  60  tons, 
and  the  Hermirillon  of  40  tons  burden.  The  crews  sol- 
emnly prepared  themselves  for  their  voyage  by  confession 
and  the  reception  of  the  sacrament ;  after  which  they  en- 
tered in  a  body  into  the  choir  of  the  cathedral,  and  stood 
before  the  bishop,  who  was  clothed  in  his  canonicals,  and 
devoutly  gave  them  his  benediction.  Having  fulfilled  these 
rites,  the  fleet  weighed  anchor  on  the  15th  of  May,  1535, 
and  the  admiral  steered  direct  for  Newfoundland.  His 
ships,  however,  were  soon  after  separated  in  a  storm,  and 
did  not  again  join  company  till  the  26th  of  June ;  after 
which  they  proceeded  to  explore  the  large  gulf  which  he 
had  already  entered.  "  It  was,"  to  use  the  words  of  the 
navigator  himself,  "a  very  fair  gulf,  full  of  islands,  pass- 
ages, and  entrances  to  what  winds  soever  you  pleased  to 
bend,  having  a  great  island  like  a  cape  of  land  stretching 
somewhat  farther  forth  than  the  others."  This  island  is  evi- 
dently that  named  by  the  English  Anticosti,  being  merely  a 


*  Ramusio,  yol.  UL  *".  438. 

D2 


t  ibid.  p.  440. 


43 


CARTIRR*8    SECOND    VOTAOE. 


> 


m  ^ 


1:    i 


corruption  of  Natiscotec,  the  appellation  at  this  day  given 
it  by  the  natives.  To  the  channel  between  it  and  the  oppo- 
site coast  of  Labrador  Cartier  gave  the  name  of  St.  Law- 
rence, which  has  since  been  extended  to  the  whole  gulf. 

On  reaching  the  eastern  point  of  the  island  of  Anticosti, 
the  French,  who  had  along  with  them  two  of  the  natives  of 
the  country,  whom  they  had  induced  in  their  former  voyage 
to  accompany  them  to  France,  requested  their  advice  as  to 
their  farther  progress.  The  savages  stated,  that  the  gulf  in 
which  they  now  lay  gradually  contracted  its  dimensions  till 
it  terminated  in  the  mouth  of  a  mighty  river  named  Hoche- 
laga,  flowing  from  a  vast  distance  in  the  interior  of  a  great 
continent.  That  two  days'  sail  above  Anticosti  would 
bring  them  to  the  kingdom  of  Saguenay,  beyond  which, 
along  the  bank  of  the  same  river,  was  a  populous  territory, 
situated  at  its  highest  known  point,  where  the  stream  was 
only  navigable  by  small  boats.  Having  received  this  infor- 
mation, Cartier  sailed  onwards,  exploring  both  sides  of  the 
river,  and  opening  a  communication  with  the  inhabitants 
by  means  of  the  natives  whom  he  carried  along  with  him. 
The  good  eifects  of  this  arrangement  were  soon  seen  ;  for 
at  first  they  fled  in  great  alarm  upon  the  approach  of  any 
of  the  ships*  crews  ;  but  on  hearing  the  interpreters  cry 
out  that  they  were  Taignoagny  and  Domagaia, — names 
which  seemed  to  inspire  immediate  ideas  of  friendliness  and 
confidence, — they  suddenly  turned  back  ;  after  which  they 
began  to  dance  and  rejoice,  running  away  with  great  speed, 
and  soon  returning  with  eels,  fishes,  grain,  and  musk- 
melons,  which  they  cast  into  the  boats,  with  gestures  ex- 
pressive of  much  kindness  and  courtesy.*  This  soon  led 
to  a  more  intimate  and  interesting  intercourse  ;  and  on  the 
following  day  the  lord  of  the  country,  who  was  named 
Donnaconna,  made  a  formal  visit  to  the  admiral's  ship,  ac- 
companied by  twelve  boats,  in  which  were  a  great  multitude 
of  his  subjects.  On  approaching  the  vessel  he  ordered  ten 
of  these  boats  to  ship  their  paddles  and  remain  stationary, 
while  he  himself,  with  the  other  two  boats,  and  attended  by 
a  suite  of  sixteen  of  his  subjects,  advanced  over-against 
the  smallest  of  the  French  ships,  and  standing  up,  com- 
menced a  long  oration,  throwing  his  body  into  a  variety  of 

•  RluntiSlo,  viol.  Ui.  11^441. 


"^. 


CARTIER  S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


4t 


™y  given 
lie  oppo- 
St.  Law- 
;ulf. 

inticosti, 
atives  of 
r  voyage 
ice  as  to 
le  gulf  in 
isions  lill 
J  Hoche- 
)f  a  great 
ill  would 
id  which, 
territorjs 
ream  was 
[his  infor- 
les  of  the 
ihabitants 
with  him. 
seen ;  for 
ich  of  any 
peters  cry 
J — names 
iness  and 
lich  they 
eat  speed, 
nd  musk- 
stures  ex- 
soon  led 
nd  on  the 
s  named 
ship,  «c- 
multilude 
dered  ten 
tationary, 
tended  by 
r- against 
up,  com- 
ariety  of 


■trange  and  uncouth  postures,  which  were  afterward  dis- 
covered to  he  signs  indicating  gladness  and  hecurity.  Don- 
naconna  now  came  aboard  the  admiral's  ship,  and  an  en- 
thusiastic interview  took  place  between  him  and  the  two 
savages  who  had  been  in  France.*  They  recounted  with 
much  gesticulation  the  extraordinary  things  which  they  had 
seen  in  that  country,  dwelling  on  the  kind  entertainment 
they  had  experienced,  and  after  many  expressive  looks  of 
wonder  and  gratitude,  the  king  entreated  the  admiral  to 
stretch  out  his  arm,  which  he  kissed  with  devotion,  laying 
it  fondly  upon  his  neck,  and  showing,  by  gestures  which 
could  not  be  mistaken,  that  he  wished  to  make  much  of 
him.  Cartier,  anxious  to  evinco  an  equal  confidence,  en- 
tered Donnaconna's  boat,  carrying  with  him  a  collation  of 
bread  and  wine,  with  which  the  monarch  was  much  pleased, 
and  the  French,  returning  to  their  ships,  ascended  the  river 
ten  leagues,  till  they  arrived  at  a  village  where  this  friendly 
potentate  usually  resided,  and  which  was  named  Stadacona. 
"  It  was,"  according  to  the  original  account  of  Cartier,  **  as 
goodly  a  plot  of  ground  as  possibly  might  be  seen,  very 
fruitful,  and  covered  with  noble  trees  similar  to  those  of 
France,  such  as  oaks,  elms,  ashes,  walnut-trees,  maple- 
trees,  citrons,  vines,  and  white  thorns  which  brought  forth 
fruit  like  damsons  ;  and  beneath  these  woods  grew  as  gooU 
hemp  as  any  in  France,  without  its  being  either  planted  or 
cultivated  by  man's  labour."t 

From  this  time  the  intercourse  between  the  French  and 
Donnaconna  continued  with  every  expression  of  friendli- 
ness ;  but  on  hearing  that  the  admiral  had  determined  to 
go  to  Hochelaga,  a  sudden  jealousy  appeared  to  seize  him, 
lest  he  and  his  people  should  be  deprived  of  the  advantages 
of  an  uninterrupted  communication  with  the  white  strangers, 
and  every  possible  device  was  put  in  execution  to  deter 
them  from  their  purpose.  One  of  these  stratagems  was  so 
ludicrous  that  we  may  be  permitted  to  give  Gartier's  ac- 
count of  it  in  an  abridgment  of  the  quaint  translation  of 
Hakluyt :  *'  The  next  day,  being  the  18th  of  September, 
these  men  still  endeavoured  to  seek  all  means  possible  to 
hinder  us  from  going  to  Hochelaga,  and  for  this  purpose 


*  Ramuaio,  vol.  iii.  p.  443. 
t  Hakluyt,  vol.  Ui.  p.  216. 


SecoQda  Relatione  di  Jacques  Cartier. 


•i-Si 


.lAkkir«..-ik^ 


44 


CARTIER  S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


ii .! 


I*i 


devised  a  pretty  guile.     They  went  and  dressed  three  men 
like  devils,  heing  wrapped  in  dogs'  skins,  white  and  black, 
with  their  faces  besmeared  as  black  as  a  coal,  and  horns 
upon  their  heads  more  than  a  yard  long."     These  figures 
they  caused  to  be  secretly  put  into  one  of  the  boats,  which 
they  concealed  within  a  winding  of  the  wooded  bay,  waiting 
patiently  for  the  tide.     When  the  proper  moment  had  ar- 
rived, a  multitude  of  the  boats,  crowded  with  natives  and 
conducted   by   Taignaogny,    suddenly   emerged    from   the 
creek ;  on  a  signal  given,  the  boat  in  which  were  the  coun- 
terfeit devils  came  rushing  out  of  its  concealment,  and  the 
middlemost  devil,  standing  up,  made  a  long  oration,  addressed 
to  the  French  ships,  of  which  of  course  every  syllable  was 
■^  unintelligible.     "  Then,"  to  resume  the  words  of  Hakluyt, 
"did  King  Donnaconna  with  all  his  people  pursue  them, 
and  lay  hold  on  the  boat  and  devils,  who,  so  soon  as  the 
men  were  come  to  them,  fell  prostrate,  as  if  they  had  been 
dead,  upon  which  they  were  taken  up  and  carried  into  the 
wood,  being  but  a  stonecast  off,  at  which  time  every  one  of 
the   savages  withdrew  himself  into  the  wood,  and  when 
there  began  to  make  a  long  discourse,  so  loud  that  it  was 
easy    for   the   French   to   hear  them  even  in  their  ships. 
When  this  oration  or  debate,  which  lasted  -for  half  an  hour, 
was  ended,  Cartier  and  his  crew  espied  Taignaogny  and 
Domagaia  coming  towards  them,  holding  their  hands  joined 
together,  carrying  their  hats  under  their  upper  garment, 
showing  a  great  admiration,  and  looking  up  to  heaven. 
Upon  this  the  captain,  hearing  them,  and  seeing  their  ges- 
tures and  ceremonies,  asked  them  what  they  ailed,  and 
what  was  happened  or  chanced  anew  1  to  which  they  an- 
swered that  there  were  very  ill  tidings  befallen,  saying  in 
their  broken  French,  '  Nenni  est  il  bon,'  that  is  to  say,  it 
was  not  good.     Our  captain  asked  them  again  what  it  was, 
and  then  they  answered    that  their  god   Cudraigny  had 
spoken   in  Hochelaga,  and  that  he  had  sent  those  three 
devils  to  show  unto  them  that  there  was  so  much  ice  and 
snow  in  that  country  that  whosoever  went  there  should 
die  ;    which  words  when  the  French  heard  they  laughed 
and  mocked  them,  sayinn-  that  their  god  Cudraigny  was  but 
a  fool  and  a  noddie,  for  he  knew  not  what  he  said  or  did. 
They  bade  them  also  carry  their  compliiuentg  to  his  mes- 


v'- 


m 


i  men 

black,      ■* 
horns 
igures 
which 
raiting 
lad  ar- 
es and 
m   the 
I  coun- 
nd  the 
Iressed 
)le  was 
akluyt, 
!  them, 
i  as  the 
id  been 
nto  the 
one  of 
(1  when 
,t  it  was 
r  ships, 
in  hour, 
ny   and 
s  joined 
arment, 
heaven, 
ir  ges- 
id,  and 
jhey  an- 
ying  in 
say,  it 
it  was, 
iny  had 
,e  three 
,ce  and 
should 
aughed 
as  but 
or  did. 
,s  mes- 


i 


cartier's  second  voyage. 


45 


sengers,  and  inform  them  that  the  God  whom  they  served 
would  defend  them  from  all  cold  if  they  would  only  believe 
in  him."* 

Having  thus  failed  in  the  object  intended  to  he  gained  by 
this  extraordinary  masquerade,  the  savages  offered  no 
further  opposition,  and  the  French  proceeded  in  their  pin- 
nace and  two  boats  up  the  river  St.  Lawrence  towards 
Hochelaga.  They  found  the  country  on  both  sides  ex- 
tremely rich  and  beautifully  varied,  covered  with  fine  wood, 
and  abounding  in  vines,  though  the  grapes,  from  want  of 
cultivation,  were  neither  so  large  nor  so  sweet  as  those  of 
France.  The  prevalent  trees  were  the  same  as  in  Europe, 
— oaks,  elms,  walnut,  cedar,  fir,  ash,  box,  and  willow  ;  and 
the  natives  on  each  side  of  the  river,  who  appeared  to  ex- 
ercise principally  the  trade  of  fishermen,  entered  into  an 
intercourse  with  the  strangers  as  readily  and  kindly  as  if 
they  had  been  their  own  countrymen.  One  of  the  lords 
of  the  country  did  not  scruple  after  a  short  acquaintance 
to  make  a  present  to  Cartier  of  two  of  his  children  ;  one 
of  whom,  a  little  girl  of  seven  or  eight  years  old,  he  carried 
away  with  him,  while  he  returned  the  other,  a  boy,  who 
was  considered  too  young  to  travel.  They  saw  great 
variety  of  birds,  almost  all  of  which  were  the  same  as  those 
of  Europe.  Cranes,  swans,  geese,  ducks,  pheasants,  par- 
tridges, thrushes,  blackbirds,  turtles,  finches,  redbreasts, 
nightingales,  and  sparrows  of  divers  kinds  were  observed, 
besides  many  other  birds. 

By  this  time  the  river  had  become  narrow,  and  in  some 
places  dangerous  in  its  navigation,  owing  to  the  rapids ;  and 
the  French,  who  had  still  three  days'  sailing  before  them, 
lefl  their  pinnace  and  took  to  their  boats,  in  which,  after  a 
prosperous  passage,  they  reached  the  city  of  Hochelaga.  It 
consisted  of  about  fifty  houses,  built  in  the  midst  of  large 
and  fair  curn-fields  near  a  great  mountain,  which  the  French 
called  Mont  Royale,  corrupted  by  time  into  Montreal,  which 
name  the  place  still  retains ;  while  the  original  American 
designation  of  Hochelaga  has  been  long  since  forgotten. 
The  city,  according  to  Cartier's  description,  was  round, 
compassed  about  with  timber,  and  with  three  courses  of  ram- 
parts, one  within  another,  framed  like  a  sharp  spire,  but  laid 

*  Hakluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  218 ;  and  Ramu8io,vol.  Ui.p.  444. 


'-* 


1 


I 


I' 


46 


CARTIER'S   SECOND   VOYAGE. 


across  aboye.  The  enclosure  which  surrounded  the  town 
was  in  height  about  two  roods,  having  but  one  gate,  which 
was  shut  with  piles,  stakes,  and  bars.  Over  it,  and  also  in 
various  parts  of  the  wall,  were  places  to  run  along,  and  lad- 
ders to  get  up,  with  magazines  or  heaps  of  stones  for  its  de- 
fence. The  houses  were  entirely  of  wood,  with  roofs  of 
bark  very  artificially  joined  together.  Each  house  had  a 
court  in  the  midst  of  it,  and  consisted  of  many  rooms,  while 
the  family  lighted  their  fire  in  the  centre  of  the  court,  and 
during  the  day  all  lived  in  common  ;  at  night  the  husbands, 
wives,  and  children  retired  to  their  several  chambers.  At 
the  top  of  the  house  were  gamers  where  they  kept  their 
corn,  which  was  something  like  the  millet  of  Brazil,  and 
called  by  them  carracony.  They  had  alpo  stores  of  pease 
and  beans,  with  musk-melons  and  great  cucumbers.  Many 
large  butts  were  observed  in  their  houses,  in  which  they 
preserved  their  dried  fish ;  but  this,  as  well  as  all  their  other 
victuals,  they  dressed  and  ate  without  salt.  They  slept 
upon  beds  of  bark  spread  on  the  ground,  with  coverings  of 
skins  similar  to  those  of  which  their  clothes  were  made.* 

The  reception  of  the  French  by  the  inhabitants  of  Hoche- 
laga  was  in  a  high  degree  friendly  ;  and  indeed  such  was 
the  extent  of  their  credulity  and  admiration,  that  they  con- 
sidered the  strangers  as  possessed  of  miraculous  power,  and 
their  commander  a  divine  person.  This  was  shown  by  their 
bringing  their  king,  Agonhanna,  an  infirm  paralytic  about 
fifty  years  of  age,  to  be  touched,  and,  as  they  trusted,  cured 
by  the  admiral,  earnestly  importuning  him  by  expressive 
gestures  to  rub  his  arms  and  legs  ;  after  which  the  savage 
monarch  took  the  wreath  or  crown  which  he  wore  upon  his 
head  and  gave  it  to  Cartier.  Soon  after  this  they  brought 
with  them  all  the  diseased  and  aged  folks  whom  they  could 
collect,  and  besought  him  to  heal  them ;  on  which  occasion 
his  conduct  appears  to  have  been  that  of  a  man  of  sincere 
piety.  He  neither  arrogated  to  himself  miraculous  powers, 
nor  did  he  altogether  refuse  their  earnest  request ;  but  read, 
from  the  Gospel  of  St.  John,  the  passion  of  our  Saviour,  and 
praying  that  the  Lord  would  be  pleased  to  open  the  hearts 
of  these  forlorn  pagans,  and  teach  them  to  know  the  truth, 
he  laid  bis  hands  upon  them,  and  making  the  sign  of  the 

*  Bamuaio,  toI.  iii.  p.  445 ;  and  Hakluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  220, 2S1. 


U       U 


i*.> 


cartier's  second  voyage. 


it 


i  town    . 
which 
also  in 
nd  lad- 
its  de- 
oofs  of 
I  had  a 
?,  while 
art,  and 
sbands, 
rs.     At 
pt  their 
izil,  and 
)f  pease 
Many 
ich  they 
eir  other 
,ey  slept 
?rings  of 
Tiade.* 
,f  Hoche- 
such  was 
they  con- 
)wer,  and 
1  by  their 
tic  about 
ed,  cured 
pressivft 
le  savage 
upon  his 
brought 
ley  could 
occasion 
sincere 
powers, 
jut  read, 
our,  and 
e  hearts 
le  truth, 
tn  of  the 


cross,  left  the  issue  of  their  being  healed  or  not  in  the  hand 
of  their  Creator.* 

On  inquiring  into  their  religious  tenets,  he  found  that 
they  were  buried  in  the  deepest  ignorance  and  superstition, 
unacquainted  with  the  existence  of  the  only  true  God,  and 
substituting  in  his  place  a  capricious  and  horrid  being  of 
their  own  imaginations,  named  Ctidraigny.  They  affirmed 
that  he  often  spoke  to  them,  and  told  them  what  kind  of 
weather  they  were  to  have  ;  but,  if  angry,  would  punish 
them  by  throwing  dust  in  their  eyes.  They  had  a  strange 
and  confused  idea  regarding  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  be- 
lieving that  after  death  they  went  to  the  stars,  and  descended 
like  these  bright  sparks  by  degrees  to  the  horizon,  where 
they  wandered  about  in  delicious  green  fields,  which  were 
full  of  the  most  precious  trees,  and  profusely  so^n  with 
fruits  and  flowers.  Cartier  explained  as  well  as  he  could 
the  folly  of  such  a  creed,  persuaded  them  that  Cudraigny 
was  no  god  but  a  devil,  and  at  his  departure  promised  to  re- 
turn af^u;  ,  and  bring  some  good  and  holy  men,  who  would 
instruct  t  j-  in  the  knowledge  of  the  true  and  only  God, 
and  bap  •■  lem  in  the  name  of  his  Son,  with  which  they 
declared  ttiemselves  well  pleased. t  "  There  groweth  here," 
says  Cartier,  "  a  certain  kind  of  herb,  of  which  during  the 
summer  they  collect  a  great  quantity  for  winter  consump- 
tion, esteeming  it  much,  and  only  permitting  men  to  use  it 
in  the  followinij  manner  :  It  is  first  dried  in  the  sun  :  after 
which  they  wear  it  about  their  necks,  wrapped  \n  a  little 
skin  made  in  the  shape  of  a  bag,  along  with  a  hollow  piece 
of  stone  or  of  wood  formed  like  a  pipe  ;  after  this  they 
bruise  it  into  a  powder,  which  is  put  into  one  of  the  ends  of 
the  said  cornet  or  pipe,  and  laying  a  coal  of  fire  upon  it  at 
the  other  end,  they  suck  so  long  that  they  fill  their  bodies 
full  of  smoke  till  it  comes  out  of  their  mouth  and  nostrils, 
even  as  out  of  the  tunnel  of  a  chimney.  They  say  that  this 
keeps  them  warm  and  in  health,  and  never  go  without  some 
of  it  about  them."  It  is  not  impossible  that  the  reader, 
perplexed  by  this  laboriously  minute  description,  may  have 
failed  to  recognise  in  it  the  first  acquaintance  made  by  the 
French  with  the  salubrious  and  far-famed  plant  of  tobacco.t 

Not  long  after  this  the  ships'  crews  were  seized  with  t 


M: 


i 


^A 


381. 


HAmusfo,  vol.  iii.  p.  448. 


t  r&ui.  p.  449. 


t  Ibid. 


48 


CARTIER^S    SECOND   VOYAGE. 


f'i 


i 


loathsome  and  dreadful  disease,  caught,  as  they  supposedi 
from  the  natives,  which  carried  off  twenty-five  men,  re- 
ducing the  survivors  lo  a  state  of  pitiabl^i  weakness  and 
suffering.  The  malady  was  then  new  to  Europeans ;  but 
the  symptoms  detailed  by  Cartier, — swollen  legs,  extreme 
debility,  putrified  gums,  and  discoloration  of  the  skin  and 
blood, — leave  no  doubt  that  this  "  strange,  unknown,"  and 
cruel  pestilence  was  the  scurvy,  since  so  fatally  familiar  to 
the  European  mariner.  Providentially,  however,  they  dis- 
covered from  the  savages  a  cure  in  the  decoction  of  the 
leaves  and  bark  of  a  species  of  tree  called  in  their  language 
hannida,  and  since  well  known  as  the  North  American 
white  pine.  "  This  medicine,"  says  Cartier,  "  worked  so 
well,  that  if  all  the  physicians  of  Montpellier  and  Louvain 
had  been  there,  with  all  the  drugs  of  Alexandria,  they  would 
not  have  done  so  much  in  one  year  as  that  tree  did  in  six 
days."* 

The  French  began  now  to  make  preparations  for  their  de- 
parture ;  but  a  dishonourable  plot  was  first  carried  into  exe- 
cution, by  which  they  succeeded  in  seizing  Donnaconna, 
whose  usefulness  and  liberality  to  them  during  their  resi- 
dence in  Canada  merited  a  more  generous  return.  The 
monarch,  however,  with  the  exception  of  a  slight  personal 
restraint  to  prevent  escape,  was  treated  with  kindness,  and 
soon  became  reconciled  to  his  journey  to  Europe,  although 
his  subjects,  inconsolable  for  his  loss,  came  nightly  howling 
like  wolves  about  the  ships,  till  assured  he  was  in  safety. 
Along  with  Donnaconna  were  secured  Taignaogny  and 
Domagaia,  who  had  already  been  in  France ;  and,  after  a 
prosperous  voyage,  the  French  ships  arrived  at  St.  Malo  on 
the  6th  July,  1536  t  It  might  have  been  expected  that,  after 
a  discovery  of  such  magnitude  and  importance,  immediate 
measures  would  have  been  adopted  to  appropriate  Hnd  colo- 
nize this  fertile,  populous,  and  extensive  country.  This 
seemed  the  more  likely,  as  the  arrival  of  Cartier  and  the  in- 
troduction of  the  Indian  king  at  court  created  an  extraordi- 
nary sensation  ;  yet  notwithstanding  the  manifest  advan- 
tages, both  commercial  and  political,  likely  to  result  from  a 
settlement  in  Canada,  the  weak  and  shallow  prejudice  which 
at  this  time  prevailed  in  most  of  the  nations  qf  Europe,  that 
no  countries  were  valuable  except  such  as  produced  gold  and 


*  Ramasio,  vol.  iil.  p.  451. 


t  Ibid.  p.  453. 


ROBERVAL. 


49 


apposed^ 
men,  re- 
ness  and 
[ins ;  but 
extreme 
skin  and 
wn,"  and 
imiliar  to 
they  dis- 
m  of  the 
hinguage 
American 
vGrked  so 
I  Louvain 
hey  would 
Uid  in  six 

)T  their  de- 
1  into  exe- 
innaconna, 
their  resi- 
urn.     The 
it  personal 
dness,  and 
,  although 
y  howling 
in  safety, 
aogny  and 
nd,  after  a 
t.  Malo  on 
that,  after 
immediate 
e  and  colo- 
try.     This 
nd  the  in- 
extraordi- 
est  advan- 
jult  Irom  a 
(lice  which 
HuTope,  that 
id  gold  and 

p.  453. 


silver,  threw  a  damp  over  the  project,  and  for  nearly  four 
years  the  French  monarch  would  listen  to  no  proposals  for 
the  establishment  of  a  colony. 

Private  adventure  at  length  came  forward  to  accomplish 
that  which  had  been  neglected  by  royal  munificence,  and  the 
Sieur  de  Roberval,  a  nobleman  of  Picardy,  requested  per- 
mission of  Francis  I.  to  pursue  the  discovery,  and  attempt 
to  form  a  settlement  in  the  country.  This  the  king  readily 
granted  ;  and  as  Roberval  was  opulent,  the  preparations 
were  made  on  a  great  scale.  He  was  created  by  Francis,  on 
the  15th  January,  1540,  Lord  of  Norimbega,  Lieutenant- 
general  and  Viceroy  in  Canada,  Hochelaga,  Saguenay, 
Newfoundland,  Belleisle,  Carpon,  Labrador,  the  Great  Bay, 
and  Baccalaos, — empty  and  ridiculous  titles,  which,  if  mer- 
ited by  any  one,  ought  to  have  been  conferred  upon  Cartier. 
This  eminent  navigator,  however,  was  only  permitted  to  ac- 
cept a  subordinate  command  ;  and  as  Roberval,  who  wished 
to  appear  with  splendour  in  his  new  dominions,  was  detained 
in  fitting  out  two  vessels  which  were  his  own  property.  Car- 
tier  was  ordered  to  sail  before  him  with  the  five  ships  already 
prepared.  He  accordingly  did  so ;  but  Donnaconna,  the 
Canadian  king,  had  died  in  France,  and  the  savages,  justly 
incensed  at  the  breach  of  faivh  by  which  they  lost  their  sove- 
reign, received  the  French  with  an  altered  countenance,  de- 
vising conspiracies  against  them  that  soon  led  to  acts  of 
open  hostility.  The  French  now  built  for  their  defence, 
near  the  present  site  of  Quebec,  a  fort,  which  they  named 
Chfirlesbourg,  being  the  first  European  settlement  formed  in 
that  part  of  America.  After  a  long  interval  Roberval  arrived 
at  Newfoundland  ;  but  a  jealousy  had  broken  out  between 
him  and  Cartier,  who  took  the  first  opportunity  during  the 
night  to  part  from  his  principal,  and  return  with  his  squadron 
to  France.  This  of  course  gave  a  death-blow  to  the  whole 
undertaking,  for  Roberval  was  nothing  without  Cartier; 
and,  after  some  unsuccessful  attempts  to  discover  a  passage 
to  the  East  Indies,  he  abandoned  the  enterprise,  and  returned 
to  his  native  country.  The  passion  for  adventure,  however, 
again  seized  him  in  1549,  and  he  and  his  brother,  one  of 
the  bravest  men  of  his  time,  set  sail  on  a  voyage  of  discov- 
ery ;  but  they  shared  the  fate  of  Verazzano  and  the  Cor- 
terealsi  bein^r  never  again  heard  of.     These  disasters  effect* 

E 


H 


I '  1 


I 


mfsm 


I 


80 


CORTES. 


ually  checked  the  enthusiasm  of  France^  while  in  England, 
the  country  to  whose  enterprise  we  have  seen  Europe  in- 
debted for  her  first  acquaintance  with  the  American  conti- 
nent, the  spirit  of  maritime  discovery  appeared  for  some 
years  almost  totally  extinct. 

The  plan  of  this  historical  disquisition  now  leads  us  to 
the  examination  of  some  remarkable  enterprises  of  the 
Spaniards  for  the  extension  of  their  immense  dominions  in 
the  New  World,  along  the  more  northern  coasts  of  America. 
The  bold  and  comprehensive  mind  of  Cortes,  the  con- 


V!i 


^ 


I 


DISCOVERY    OF    CALIFORNIA. 


51 


England, 
irope  in- 
cin  conti- 
for  some 

ds  us  to 
3  of  the 
inions  in 
America, 
the  con- 


queror of  Mexico,  not  content  with  the  acquisition  of  that 
noble  empire,  formed  the  most  extensive  projects  of  dis- 
covery. Alarmed  at  the  attempts  of  the  English  to  dis- 
cover a  northern  passage  to  China  and  Cathay,  he  resolved 
to  make  a  careful  survey  of  the  whole  coast,  extending 
from  the  river  Panuco  in  Mexico  to  Florida,  and  thence 
northwards  to  the  Baccalaos,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining 
whether  there  might  not  exist  iu  that  quarter  a  communi- 
cation with  the  Sopth  S^  At  the  same  time  a  squadron 
in  the  Pacific  was  sjui  .  ig  the  western  co  i  "America, 
and  by  these  simuiianeoua  researches  he  truotcd  to  find  a 
strait  aftbnling  a  far  shorter  and  easier  route  to  India  and 
the  Moluccas,  and  connecting  together  the  vast  dominions 
of  the  Spanish  crown.*  Charles  V.,  to  whom  these  pro- 
posals were  presented,  although  willing  to  encourage  every 
scheme  for  the  extension  of  his  power,  ungenerously  threw 
upon  their  author  the  whole  expense  of  the  undertaking; 
in  consequence  of  which,  the  idea  of  the  voyage  for  the 
discovery  of  a  north-west  passage  was  abandoned,  and  the 
magnificent  designs  for  the  conquest  of  many  great  and 
opulent  kingdoms  sank  at  last  into  the  equipment  of  two 
brigantines  on  the  coast  of  the  South  Sea,  the  command  of 
which  was  intrusted  to  Diego  de  Hurtado.  This  expedition 
ended  calamitously  in  a  mutiny  of  one  of  the  crews,  who 
brought  back  their  ship  to  Xalisco :  the  fate  of  Hurtado 
was  still  more  unfortunate,  for,  although  he  continued  his 
voyage,  neither  he  nor  any  of  his  crew  were  ever  more 
heard  of.  A  second  expedition,  intrusted  by  (^ortes  to  two 
Spanish  captains,  Grijalva  and  Mendoza,  was  scarcely  more 
fortunate.  The  vessels  were  separated  on  the  first  night 
of  their  voyage,  and  never  again  joined  company.  Grijalva 
penetrated  to  an  island  which  he  denominated  Santa  Tome, 
suoposed  to  have  been  situated  near  the  northern  point  of 
California,  after  which  he  returned  to  Tehuantepec  ;  while 
Mendoza,  by  his  haughty  and  tyrannical  temper,  having 
rendered  himself  odious  to  his  crew,  was  murdered  by  the 
pilot,  Ximenes,  who  assumed  the  command.  Afraid  of  re- 
turning to  Mexico,  the  traitor  sailed  northward,  and  dis- 
covered the  coast  of  California,  where  he  was  soon  after 


*  Ramusio,  vol.  iii.  p.  205.    Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  863. 


\  '^  fi. 


J 


02 


VLLOA. 


i^ 


n\ 


attacked  and  «Iain,  along  ivith  twenty  of  his  crew,  by  the 
savage  natives.* 

The  survivors,  however,  brought  the  vessel  back  to  Chi- 
ametta,  with  the  tempting  report  that  the  coast  abounded 
in  pearls.     Cortes  now  set  out  himself,  with  a  squadron  of 
three  ships ;  and,  although  his  vessels  were  drea'Tully  shat- 
tered in  a  storm,  pursued  his  voyaf  ^  with  his  accustomed 
energy,  till  compelled  to  return  by  a  summons  from  Mexico, 
where  the  breaking  out  of  serious  disturbances  required  bin 
immediate  presence. '  He  intrusted,  however,  the  prosecu- 
tion of  the  voyage  to  Francisco  de  Ulloa ;   and  this  enter- 
prising navigator,  though  at  first  obligrd  by  want  of  pro- 
visions to  return  to  Mexico,  revictualled  bis  ships,  ard  again 
set  sail.     The  pious  solemnity  with  which  these  ancient 
mariners  were  accustomed  to  regard  their  proceedings  is 
strikingly  shown  by  the  first  sentence  of  his  journal : — 
"  We  embarked,"  says  he,  "  in  the  haven  of  Acapulco,  on 
the  8th  of  July,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  1539,  calling  upon 
Almighty  God  to  guide  us  with  his  holy  hand  to  those  places 
where  he  might  be  served,  and  his  holy  faith  advanced ; 
and  we  sailed  from  the  said  port  by  the  coast  of  Sacatula 
and   Motin,   which    is   sweet  and   pleasant,  owing  to  the 
abundance  of  trees  that  grow  th^re,  and  the  rivers  which 
pass  through  these  countries,  fo*      hich  we  often  thanked 
God,  their  Creator."!     A  voyage  of  twenty  days  brought 
the  squadron  to  the  harbour  of  Colima,  from  which  they  set 
out  on  the  23d  of  August,  and  after  encountering  a  tem- 
pest, in   which  their  ships  were  severely  shattered,  they 
stood  across  the  Gulf  of  California,  and  came  to  the  mouth 
of  the  river  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul.     On  both  sides  of  it 
were  rich  and  extensive  plains,  covered  with  beautiful  trees 
in  full  leaf;  and  farther  within  the  land  exceeding  high 
mountains,  clothed  with  wood,  and   affording  a  charming 
prospect ;  after  which,  in  a  course  of  fifteen   leagues,  they 
discovered  two  other  rivers  as  great  or  greater  than  the 
Guadalquiver,  the  currents  of  which  were  so  strong  that 
they  might  be  discerned  three  leagues  off  at  sea. 
.  Ulloa  spent  a  year  in  examining  the  coasts  and  havens 
on  each  side  of  the  Gulf  of  California,    In  some  places  the 

*  Hakluyt,  vol.  lii.  p.  3(54 ;  and  Ramusio,  Viaggi,  v.»l.  iii.  p.  SM-  ^ 
t  Baoiusio,  vol,  iii.  p.  339.    Murray's  North  America,  vol.  ii.  p.  68« , 


^ 


w,  by  the 

!k  to  Chi- 
abounded 
adron  of 
ully  shat- 
custonied 
1  Mexico, 
uired  bin 
prosecu- 
lis  enter- 
t  of  pro- 
rd  again 
!  ancient 
tdings  is 
urnal : — 
mico,  on 
ng  upon 
se  places 
ivanced ; 
Sacatula 
r  to  the 
•s  which 
thanked 
brought 
they  set 
f  a  teni' 
d,   they 
e  mouth 
es  of  it 
ful  trees 
ig  high 
tanning 
!S,  they 
lan  the 
ng  that 

havens 
ces  the 

355. 
i.  p.  C8*  , 


VLhOA, 

Spaniards  found  tha  inh^u:     .  ^^ 

»i<h  bow»  a„J  arrl'.;"J,t;;'»"'''.  ?'  ^""  '""»'«.*  armed 

eaped  from  rock  to  rock      '.?' i."''""^  «"J    activ?  and 

lhe,n  "  by  which,"  says  K„  ..'^""'=5  »'"  «"ow8  »„?„,! 

arrows,  so  that  »e  could  br„of^f™^''^  ""'""''"i  'yVrw 
the  dog  was  struck  in  tl^e  ZsI^TT^^.  ^^  •>'»  '» leave  uH 
had  behaved  himself  very  "aid""  "^  '^  '"'«'"«.  after  hi 
having  set  upon  them  and  n»tt"Z'  ""''  8«atly  aided  us 
array  But  the  othe"mastiff  d1  f"  '"  '*"  "^  "«ni  out  of 
for  when  they  attacke?the  Indhns' t^""  J"™  "-a"  Kood) 

tant  from  the  pofnt  of  cS "'?'""  "hundred  lelXdiT 

S^^^X«'?fa£S5 
they  afterward  assaulted  th!'.]?^'?  '^^^  *«  ^^  tru.sted   tha? 
t«  retreat  to  their  velsL^^ f^'^'  ""'^^^^ 
now  discovered,  i„  28°  trtMafh T'  '^^^^  v«yHge"^Thev 
hey  denominated  the  Isle":    C  dart  tl.^"^'  '^^""^'  -hicl 
It  m   the  name  of  the  Spanish  mnn'   f '"?  Possession  of 

Xed'^wUhToir.lf/iy^^^^^^^ 
staves  th^=ker  tha^  rl^^rrri^f-^^-  {r ""'•"''  '»»« 
at  the  saUors,  braving  them  w  h  Cs^  „'ST  ."""^  »'"'«^ 
r  HakJuyt,  vol.  ui.  n  4m     »o 


64 


VLLOA. 


yf 


I  I 


Pi': 


till  at  last  it  was  found  necessary  to  let  loose  the  two  mas- 
tifTs  Berecillu  and  Achillo  ;  upon  which  they  suddenly  took 
to  flight,  flying  over  the  rough  ground  with  the  speed  of 
wild  nurses.*  Beyond  this  island  the  Spaniards  attempted 
to  continue  their  discoveries  along  the  coast  of  California; 
but  a  tempest  having  driven  them  back  and  damaged  their 
vessels,  they  determined  to  return  to  New-Spain.  In  their 
homeward  voyage  they  were  in  danger  f-om  a  new  and  ex- 
traordinary enemy  ;  for,  when  sailing  in  the  main  ocean  at 
a  rapid  rate,  above  500  whales,  in  separate  shoals,  came 
athwart  them  within  one  hour's  space.  Their  monstrous 
size  created  great  astonishment,  some  of  them  approaching 
80  near  the  ship  as  to  swim  under  the  keel  from  one  side  to 
the  other  ;  "  whereupon,"  says  Francis  Preciado,  who  wrote 
the  relation  of  the  voyage,  "  we  were  in  great  fear  lest  they 
should  do  us  some  hurt ;  but  they  could  not,  because  the 
ship  had  a  prosperous  and  goo:l  wind,  and  made  much  way, 
80  that  it  received  no  harm  although  they  touched  and  struck 
her.»+ 

In  this  voyage,  which  for  the  first  time  made  the  world 
acquainted  with  the  Gulf  of  California,  or  Sea  of  Cortes, 
Ulloa  had  not  been  able  to  spend  sufficient  time  either  in  a 
survey  of  the  coast  or  in  establishing  an  intercourse  with 
the  natives.  But  not  long  afler  his  return,  Mendoza,  the 
viceroy  of  New-Spain,  despatched  Friar  Marco  de  Nica 
upon  an  expedition  of  discovery  from  Culeacan,  at  that 
time  the  most  northerly  Spanish  settlement,  to  a  province 
called  Topira,  situated  in  the  mountains.  The  account 
brought  back  of  the  riches  and  extent  of  the  country  proved 
60  tempting  to  the  ambition  of  the  Spaniards,  that  soon 
after  Vasquez  de  Coronado,  an  officer  of  great  courage  and 
experience,  was  appointed  by  Mendoza  to  the  command  of 
a  large  force,  for  the  reduction  of  the  new  territory  ;  while, 
to  co-operate  with  this  land  expedition,  a  naval  armament 
was  fitted  out,  of  which  Ferdinand  de  Alarchon  was  ap- 
pointed admiral,  with  orders  to  explore  the  Gulf  of  Califor- 
nia. As  far  as  conquest  was  intended,  these  mighty  prepa- 
rations conducted  to  no  permanent  results ;  but  the  voy- 
age of  Alarchon  led  to  some  important  discoveries. 

After  a  survey  of  the  lower  part  of  the  coast  of  the  gul^ 


*  Ramusio,vol.  iii.p.  351. 
t  Hakluyt,  vbl.  iU.  p.  434. 


Haklayt,  vol.  ill.  p.  419. 


R   ftS 


vo  mas- 
nly  took 
peed  of 
tempted 
ifornia ; 
ed  their 
In  their 
and  ex- 
ocean  at 
8,  came 
onstrous 
poaching 
;  side  to 
ho  wrote 
lest  they 
ause  the 
ich  way, 
id  struck 

le  world 
f  Cortes, 
ther  in  a 
irse  with 
joza,  the 
de  Nica 
at  that 
province 
account 
y  proved 
lat  soon 
age  and 
mand  of 
while, 
mament 
was  ap- 
Califor- 
prepa- 
the  voy- 

Ihe  gul^ 


ALARCHON. 


56 


he  penetrated  with  much  difficulty  and  hazard  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  bay,  where  he  found  a  mighty  river,  flowing 
with  so  furious  a  current  that  they  could  hardly  sail  against 
it.^  This  was  evidently  the  noble  river  now  known  by  the 
name  of  the  Colorado,  which  has  its  rise  in  the  great  moun- 
tain-range near  the  sources  of  the  Rio  Bravo  del  Norte, 
and  after  a  course  of  900  miles  falls  into  the  head  of  the 
Gulf  of  California.  Alarchon  determined  to  explore  i£; 
and  taking  with  him  two  boats,  with  twenty  men  and  some 
small  pieces  of  artillery,  he  ascended  to  an  Indian  village, 
the  inhabitants  of  which,  by  violent  and  furious  gestures, 
dissuaded  the  Spaniards  from  landing.  The  party  of  na- 
tives, at  first  small,  soon  increased  to  a  body  of  250,  drawn 
up  in  warlike  fashion,  with  bows  and  arrows,  and  displayed 
banners.  The  Spanish  admiral  appeased  them  by  signs, 
throwing  his  sword  and  target  into  the  bottom  of  the  boat, 
and  placing  his  feet  upon  them.  "  They  began,"  says  he, 
in  his  letter  to  the  viceroy  Mendoza,  "  to  make  a  great  mur- 
muring among  themselves,  when  suddenly  one  came  out 
from  among  them  with  a  stafi',  upon  which  he  had  fixed 
some  small  shells,  and  entered  Into  the  water  to  give  them 
to  me.  I  took  them,  and  made  Higns  to  him  that  he  should 
approach.  On  his  doing  so,  I  embrnced  him,  giving  him  in 
exchange  some  trinkets ;  and  he  returning  to  his  fellows, 
they  began  to  look  upon  them  and  to  parley  together ;  and 
within  a  while  many  of  them  cheerfully  approached,  to 
whom  I  made  signs  that  they  should  lay  down  their  ban- 
ners and  leave  their  weapons  ;  which  they  did  immediately." 
Alarchon  gives  a  minute  description  of  the  dress,  weapons, 
and  appearance  of  these  Indians.  They  were  decked  after 
sundry  fashions ;  the  fac<^s  of  some  were  covered  with 
tattooed  marks,  extending  lengthwise  from  the  forehead  to 
the  chin,  others  had  only  half  the  face  thus  ornamented ; 
but  all  were  besmeared  with  coal,  and  every  one  as  it  liked 
him  best.  Others  carried  vizards  before  them,  which  had 
the  shape  of  faces. t  They  wore  on  their  heads  a  piece  of 
deer-skin  two  spans  broad,  like  a  helmet,  ornamented  by 
various  sorts  of  feathers  stuck  upon  small  sticks.  Their 
weapons  were  bows  and  arrows,  and  two  or  three  kinds  of 

*  Ramusio,  Viaygi,  vol.  iii.  p.  363. 

t  Such  is  the  translation  of  Hakluyt;  but  the  passage  in  the  original 
1b  obsfiure. 


'S: 


-''  1 


I 


» 


r 


i! 


i* 


!    r 


'!'' 
h 


06 


ALARCHON. 


macei  of  wood  hardened  in  the  fire.  Their  frntureft  Were 
handaome  Rnd  refrular,  ))ut  diHtigurcd  by  holes  bored  through 
the  nostrils  and  in  many  parts  of  the  ears,  on  which  were 
hung  pendants,  shells,  and  bones.  About  their  loins  was  a 
girdle  of  divers  colours,  with  a  large  bunch  of  feathers  in 
the  middle,  which  hung  down  like  a  tall.  They  cut  their 
hair  short  before,  but  allow  it  behind  to  grow  down  to  their 
waist.  Their  bodies  were  tattooed  with  coals,  and  the 
women  wore  round  their  waist  a  groat  wreath  of  painted 
feathers,  glued  together,  and  hanging  down  both  before  and 
behind.* 

Having  procured  by  signs  a  pacific  reception  from  this 
new  people,  Alarchon  found  to  his  mortification  that  they 
did  not  understand  his  interpreter  ;  but,  nflcr  a  little  inter- 
course, observing  that  they  worshipped  the  sun,  he  unscru- 
pulously intimated  to  them  by  significant  gestures  that  he 
came  from  that  luminary;  "upon  which  they  marvelled," 
says  he,  "  and  began  to  survey  me  from  top  to  toe,  and  showed 
me  more  favour  than  they  did  before."  Soon  after  this 
a  man  was  found  among  them  who  could  speak  the  language 
of  the  interpreter;  and  an  intercourse  of  a  very  extraordi- 
nary nature  took  place,  in  which  the  honesty  and  simplicity 
of  the  Indians  are  strikingly  contrasted  with  the  false  and 
unprincipled  policy  of  the  Spaniards.  The  passage  is  un- 
commonly graphic  and  interesting :  "  The  Indian  first  de- 
sired to  know  what  nation  we  were,  and  whence  we  came  1 
"Whether  we  came  out  of  the  water,  or  inhabited  the  earth, 
or  had  fallen  from  the  heaven  1"  To  this  the  admiral  re- 
plied, that  they  were  Christians,  and  came  from  far  to  see 
them,  being  sent  by  the  sun,  to  which  he  pointed.  "  After 
this  introduction,  the  Indian,"  continues  Alarchon  in  his 
account  of  the  voyage,  "  began  again  to  ask  me  how  the  sun 
had  sent  me,  seeing  he  went  aloft  in  the  sky  and  never  stood 
still,  and  for  these  many  years  neither  they  nor  their  oldest 
men  had  ever  seen  such  as  we  were,  and  the  sun  till  that 
hour  had  never  sent  any  other.  I  answered  him,  it  was 
true  the  sun  pursued  his  course  aloft  in  the  sky,  and  never 
stood  still,  but  nevertheless  they  might  perceive  that  at  his 
setting  and  rising  he  came  near  the  earth,  where  his  dwelling 
VfSMf  and  that  they  always  saw  him  come  out  of  one  place ; 


*  Ramuslo,  vol.  111.  p.  3M 


^. 


ALARCHON. 


57 


was 
[never 
lat  his 
lelling 
Uace ; 


and  ho  had  created  me  in  that  land  whence  he  came,  in  the 
lume  way  that  he  had  made  innny  others  whom  ho  8ent  into 
other  parts  ;  and  now  he  had  deuired  me  to  visit  this  same 
river,  and  the  people  who  dwelt  near  it,  that  I  might  speak 
with  them,  and  become  their  friend,  and  give  them  such 
things  as  they  needed,  and  charge  them  not  to  make  war 
against  each  other.  On  this  he  required  me  to  tell  them  the 
cause  why  the  sun  had  not  sent  me  sooner  to  pacify  the  wars 
which  had  continued  a  long  time  among  them,  and  wherein 
many  had  been  slain.  I  told  him  the  reason  was  that  I 
was  then  but  a  child.  He  next  inquired  why  we  brought  only 
one  interpreter  with  us  who  comprehended  '^ur  language, 
and  wherefore  we  understood  not  all  other  n.an,  seeing  wo 
were  children  of  the  sun  ]  To  which  our  interpreter  an- 
swered, that  the  sun  had  also  begotten  him,  and  given  \Jm 
a  language  to  understand  him,  his  master  the  <.dmirH],  and 
others  ;  the  sun  knew  well  that  they  dwelt  there,  but  because 
that  great  light  had  many  other  businesses,  and  because  his 
master  was  but  young,  he  sent  hini  no  sooner.  The  I''  'lian 
interpreter,"  continues  Alarchon,  "  then  turning  to  m* ,  tn'id 
suddenly,  '  Comest  thou,  therefore,  to  be  our  lord,  anu  that 
we  should  serve  thee  V  To  which  I  answered,  I  came  not 
to  be  their  lord,  but  rather  their  brother,  and  to  give  them 
such  things  as  I  hud.  He  then  inquired  whether  I  was  the 
sun's  kinsQian,  or  his  child  ?  To  which  I  replied  I  w»8  his 
son,  hut  those  who  were  with  me,  though  all  born  in  one 
country,  were  not  his  children  ;  upon  which  he  raised  his 
voice  loudly  and  said,  '  Seeing  thou  doest  us  so  much  good, 
and  dost  not  wish  us  to  make  war,  and  art  the  child  of  the 
sun,  we  will  all  receive  thee  for  our  lord,  and  always  serve 
thee ;  therefore  we  pray  thee  not  to  depart  hence  and  leave 
us.'  After  which  he  suddenly  turned  to  the  p^*  >ple,  and  be- 
gan to  tell  them  that  I  was  the  child  of  the  sui>,  and  therefore 
they  should  all  choose  me  for  their  lord."*  The  Indians 
appeared  to  be  well  pleased  with  this  proposal,  and  assisted 
the  Spaniards  in  their  ascent  of  the  river  to  the  distance  of 
eighty-five  leagues  ;  but  finding  it  Impossible  to  open  a  com- 
munication with  the  army  under  Coronado,  Alarchon  put 
about  his  ships,  and  returned  to  Mexico. f 


♦  Hakluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  429.    Ramusio,  vol.  ill.  p.  336. 
t  Hakluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  438, 439.  ^ 


.1 


I 

1 


'4 


1'^ 


41 


«   T 


58 


DE 


FU<JA. 


After  the  expeditions  of  Coronado  and  Alarchon,  in  1542, 
the  spirit  of  enterprise  among  the  Spaniards  experienced 
some  check,  owing  probably  to  the  feeling  of  mortification 
and  disappointment  which  accompanied  the  return  of  these 
officers.  Yet  Mendoza,  unwilling  wholly  to  renounce  the 
high  hopes  he  had  entertained,  despatched  a  small  squadron 
under  Rodriguez  Cabrillo,  which  traced  the  yet  undiscovered 
coast  of  North  America  some  degrees  beyond  Cape  Men- 
docino,* and  in  1596  and  1602,  Sebastian  Viscaino  extended 
these  discoveries  along  the  coast  of  New-Albion  to  a  river 
which  appears  to  have  been  the  present  Columbia.  It  has 
even  been  asserted  by  some  authors,  that,  four  years  prior  to 
the  voyage  of  Viscaino,  Juan  de  Fu^a,  a  veteran  Spanish 
pilot,  conducted  a  ship  beyond  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia, 
and  doubling  Cape  Flattery,  entered  the  Straits  of  Georgia, 
through  which  he  passed  till  he  came  to  Queen  Charlotte's 
Sound.  De  Fu9a  imagined,  not  unnaturally,  considering  the 
imperfect  and  limited  state  of  geographical  knowledge,  that 
he  had  now  sailed  through  the  famous  and  fabulous  Strait 
of  Anian  :  and  that,  instead  of  being  in  the  Pacific  as  h& 
then  actually  was,  he  had  conducted  his  vessel  into  the  spa- 
cious expansR  of  the  Atlantic.  With  this  information  he 
returned  to  Acapulco ;  but  the  Spanish  viceroy  received 
him  coldly,  and  withheld  all  encouragement  or  reward, — a 
circumstance  to  which  we  may  perhaps  ascribe  the  cessation 
from  this  period  of  all  further  attempts  at  discovery  by  this 
nation  upon  the  north-west  coast  of  America.  The  whole 
voyage  of  De  Fu^a,  however,  rests  on  apocryphail  authority^ 


/  f 


CHAPTER  II. 

Russian  and  English  Voyages. 

Behring— Tchlrikow— Cook  and  Gierke — Meares— VancouTcr— 

Kotzebiie. 

As  the  zeal  of  the  Spanish  government  in  extending  thetr 
discoveries  upon  the  north-west  coast  of  Aniorica  abated, 
another  great  nation,  hitherto  scarcely  known  is  Europe, 
undertook  at  a  latoi'  period  the  task  which  they  had  aban« 


BEHRINO*S   FIRST   VOYAGE. 


59 


'  '\ 


doned.  Russia,  within  little  more  than  half  a  century,  had 
grown  up  from  a  collection  of  savage,  undisciplineci,  and 
unconnected  tribes,  into  a  mighty  people.  Her  conquests 
had  spread  with  amazing  rapidity  till  they  embraced  the 
whole  of  the  north  of  Asia,  and  under  the  energetic  admin- 
istration of  Peter  the  Great  this  empire  assumed  at  once 
that  commanding  influence  in  the  scale  of  European  nations 
which  it  has  continued  to  preserve  till  the  present  times. 
Among  the  many  great  projects  of  this  remarkable  man, 
the  solution  of  the  question,  whether  Asia,  on  the  north-east, 
was  united  with  America,  occupied  a  prominent  place  ;  and 
it  appears  that  during  his  residence  in  Holland  in  1717,  he 
had  been  solicited  by  some  of  the  most  eminent  patrons  of 
discovery  among  the  Dutch  to  institute  an  expedition  to 
investigate  the  subject.  The  resolution  he  then  formed  to 
set  this  great  point  at  rest  by  a  voyage  of  discovery  was 
never  abandoned  ;  but  his  occupation  in  war,  and  the  mul- 
tiplicity of  those  state-affairs  which  engrossed  his  attention, 
caused  him  to  delay  its  execution  from  year  to  year,  till  he 
was  seized  with  his  last  illness.  Upon  his  death-bed  he 
wrote,  with  his  own  hand,  instructions  to  Admiral  Apraxin, 
and  an  order  to  have  them  carried  into  immediate  execution. 
They  directed,  first,  that  one  or  two  boats  with  decks  should 
be  built  at  Kamtschatka,  or  at  any  other  convenient  place ; 
second Iv,  that  with  these  a  survey  should  be  made  of  the 
most  northerly  coast  of  his  Asiatic  empire,  to  determine 
whether  they  were  or  were  not  contiguous  to  America  ;  and, 
thirdly,  that  the  persons  to  whom  the  expedition  was  intrusted 
should  endeavour  to  ascertain  whether  on  these  coasts  there 
was  any  port  belonging  to  Europeans,  and  keep  a  strict 
look-out  for  any  European  ship,  taking  care  also  to  employ 
some  skilful  men  in  making  inquiries  regarding  the  name 
and  situation  of  the  coasts  which  they  discovered, — of  all 
which  they  were  to  keep  an  exact  journal,  and  transmit  it 
to  St.  Petersburg. 

Upon  the  death  of  Peter  the  Great,  which  happened 
shortly  after  these  instructions  were  drawn  up,  the  Empress 
Catherine  entered  fully  into  his  views,  and  gave  orders  to 
fit  out  an  expedition  for  their  accomplishment.  The  com- 
mand was  intrusted  to  Captain  V^itus  Behring.  Under  his 
orders  were  two  lieutenants,  Martin  Spangberg  and  Alexei 
Tchirikow ;  and,  besides  other  subaltern  officers,  they  en- 


'■  .'• 


60 


BEHRINO'S   FIRST   VOYAGE. 


\t 


gaged  several  excellent  ship-carpenters.  On  the  5th  of  Feb- 
ruary, 1 725,  they  set  out  from  St.  Petersburg,  an<l  on  the  16th 
March  arrived  at  Tobolsk,  the  capital  of  Siberia.  After  a 
survey  of  the  rivers  Irtisch,  Ob,  Ket,  Jenesei,  Tungusca, 
and  Ilim,  they  wintered  at  Ilim,  and,  in  the  spring  of  1726, 
proceeded  down  the  river  Lena  to  Jakutzk.  The  naval  stores 
and  part  of  the  provisions  were  now  intrusted  to  Lieutenant 
Spangberg,  who  embarked  on  the  Juduma,  intending  to  sail 
from  it  into  the  Maia,  and  then  by  the  Aldan  into  the  Lena. 
He  was  followed  by  Captain  Behring,  who  proceeded  by 
land  with  another  part  of  the  stores,  while  Lieutenant 
Tchirikow  staid  at  Jakutzk,  with  the  design  of  transporting 
the  remainder  overland.  The  cause  of  this  complicated 
division  of  labour  was  the  impassable  nature  of  the  country 
between  Jakutzk  and  Ochotzk,  which  is  impracticable  for 
wagons  in  summer,  or  for  sledges  during  winter.  Such, 
indeed,  were  the  difficulties  of  transporting  these  large  bales 
of  provisions,  that  it  was  the  30th  July,  1727,  before  the 
whole  business  was  completed.  In  the  mean  time  a  vessel 
had  been  built  at  Ochotzk,  in  which  the  naval  stores  were 
conveyed  to  Bolscheretzkoi  in  Kamtschatka.  From  this 
they  proceeded  to  Nischnei  Kamtschatkoi  Ostrog,  where  a 
boat  was  built  similar  to  the  packet-boats  used  in  the  Baltic. 
After  the  necessary  articles  were  shipped,  Captain  Behring, 
determining  no  longer  to  delay  the  most  important  part  of  his 
enterprise,  set  sail  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  Kamtschatka 
on  the  14th  of  July,  steering  north-east,  and  for  the  first 
time  laying  down  a  survey  of  this  remote  and  desolate  coast. 
"When  they  reached  the  latitude  of  64°  30',  eight  men  of  the 
wild  tribe  of  the  Tschuktschi  pushed  off  from  the  coast  in  a 
leathern  canoe,  called  a  baidar,  formed  of  seal- skins,  and 
fearlessly  approached  the  Russian  ship.  A  communication 
was  immediately  opened  by  means  of  a  Koriak  interpreter ; 
and,  on  being  invited,  they  came  on  board  without  hesita- 
tion. By  these  natives  Behring  was  informed  that  the  coast 
turned  towards  the  west.  On  reaching  the  promontory  called 
Serdze  Kamen,  the  accuracy  of  this  information  was  estab- 
lished, for  the  land  was  seen  extending  a  great  way  in  a 
western  direction, — a  circumstance  from  which  Behring 
somewhat  too  hastily  concluded,  that  he  had  reached  the 
extremest  northern  point  of  Asia.  He  was  of  opinion  that 
thence  the  coast  must  run  to  the  west,  and  therefore  no 


BEHRING  8  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


61 


'M 


>fFeb- 
le  16th 
After  a 

IgUSCSIf 

f  1726, 
I  stores 
atenant 
r  to  sail 
e  Tiena. 
jded  by 
utenant 
sporting 
plicated 
country 
able  for 
.    Such, 
rge  bales 
ifore  the 
a  vessel 
ires  -were 
rom   this 
where  a 
le  Baltic. 
|Behring, 
lart  of  his 
itschatka 
the  first 
ite  coast. 
|en  of  the 
oast  in  a 
ins,  and 
inication 
rpreter ; 
It  hesita- 
;he  coast 
»Ty  called 
|as  estah- 
my  in  a 
Behring 
Iched  the 
lion  that 
lefore  no 


! 


junction  with  America  could  take  place.  Satisfied  that  he 
had  now  fulfilled  his  orders,  he  relumed  to  the  river  Kam- 
tschatka,  and  again  took  up  his  winter-quarters  at  Nischnei 
Kamtschatkoi  Ostrog.* 

In  this  voyage  it  was  conjoctured  by  Behring  and  his 
officers,  from  the  reports  of  llio  Kamtschadales,  that  in  all 
probability  another  country  must  be  situated  towards  the 
east,  at  no  great  distance  from  Serdze  Kiimen  ;  yet  no  im- 
mediate steps  were  taken  either  to  complete  the  survey  of 
the  most  northerly  cojvsts  of  Ochozkoi,  or  to  explore  the 
undiscovered  region  immediately  opposite  the  promontory. 
In  the  course  of  a  campjiign,  however,  against  the  fierce 
and  independent  nation  of  the  Tschuktshi,  Ciiptain  Paw- 
lutzki  penetrated  by  the  rivers  Nboina,  Bela,  and  Tcherna, 
to  the  borders  of  the  Frozen  Sea  ;  and  after  defeating  the 
enemy  in  three  battles,  passed  in  triumph  to  a  promontory 
supposed  to  be  the  'I'gchukotzkoi  Noss.  From  this  point 
he  sent  part  of  his  little  army  in  cunDes,  while  he  himself 
conducted  the  remaining  division  by  land  round  the  promon- 
tory, taking  care  to  march  along  the  seacoasf,  and  to  com- 
municate every  evening  with  bis  canoes.  In  this  manner 
Pawlutzki  reached  the  promontory  which  is  conjectured  to 
have  been  the  farthest  limit  of  Bchring's  voyage,  and  thence 
by  an  inland  route  returned,  on  the  21st  C)ctober,  1730,  to 
Anadirsk,  having  advanced  an  im[)ortant  step  in  ascertain- 
ing the  separation  between  America  and  the  remote  north- 
easterly coast  of  Asia. 

Although  the  separation  of  the  two  continents  had  been 
thus  far  fixed,  a  wide  field  of  discovery  yet  remained  unex- 
plored ;  and  in  1741,  Behring,  Spangberg,  and  Tchirikow 
once  more  volunteered  their  services  for  this  purpose.  These 
offers  were  immediately  accepted  ;  the  captain  was  pro- 
moted to  the  rank  of  a  commander,  the  two  lieutenants 
were  made  captains,  and  instructions  drawn  up  for  the  con- 
duct of  the  expedition,  in  which  it  was  directed  that  the 
destination  of  the  voyages  should  be  eastward  to  the  con- 
tinent of  America,  and  southward  to  J  ipan,  while,  at  the 
same  time,  an  endeavour  was  to  be  made  for  the  discovery 
of  that  northern  passage  through  the  Frozen   Sea  which 


VI 


i'- 


.1 


« 


*  Hairria's  Collection  of  Voyages,  vol. 
■Ihn  Discoveries,  p.  83, 24, 94. 

F 


ii.  p.  1020, 1021 ;  Ooxe's  Rus- 


J 


¥ 


i    •,■■■ 
f  I' 


.  f 


* '( 


r 
■^ 


62 


BEHRINO  AND  TCHIRIKOW  : 


i    '■ 


i  i ) 


had  been  so  repeatedly  but  unsuccessfully  attempted  by 
other  European  nations.  The  voyage  to  Japan,  under  the 
command  of  Captain  Spangberg  and  Lieutenant  Walton, 
was  eminently  successful ;  and  one  of  its  material  results 
was  the  correction  of  a  geographical  error  of  considerable 
magnitude,  by  which  that  island  had  hitherto  been  placed 
under  the  same  meridian  as  Kamtschatka,  instead  of  11^ 
more  to  the  westward.  The  expedition  of  Behring,  no  less 
important  and  satisfactory,  was  destined  to  be  fa  al  to  its 
excellent  commander.  After  a  winter  spent  in  the  harbour 
of  Awatscha,  or  Petropalauska,  on  the  west  sidi  of  the 
great  peninsula  of  Kamtbchatka,  Behring  got  his  st  res  on 
board  the  two  packet-boats  built  at  Ochotzk,  exp^e^  ^ly  for 
the  intended  American  discoveries.  The  first  of  the  e,  the 
St.  Peter,  was  that  in  which  the  commander  embarkeu  ;  the 
second,  the  St.  Paul,  was  intrusted  to  Captain  Tchirikow. 
Along  with  Behring  went  Lewis  de  Lisle  de  la  Croyere, 
Professor  of  Astronomy,  while  Mr.  George  William  Steller, 
an  experienced  chymist  and  botanist,  accompanied  Tchi- 
rikow. 

All  things  being  ready,  a  council  of  officers  was  held,  in 
which  the  question  regarding  the  course  they  should  steer 
was  considered,  and  it  happened,  unfortunately  for  the  ex- 
pedition, that  an  important  error  had  crept  into  the  map  pre- 
sented by  the  Academy  of  Sciences  at  St.  Petersburg  to  the 
senate,  in  laying  down  a  coast  south-east  from  Awatscha, 
extending  fifteen  degrees  from  west  to  east,  while  no  land 
was  marked  due  east.  At  this  spot  were  written  on  the  map 
the  •  ords  "  Land  seen  by  Don  .Jean  de  Gama :"  and,  trust- 
ing to  the  accuracy  of  this  information,  it  was  determined 
to  steer  first  south-enst-by-east,  in  the  hope  of  discovering 
this  continent ;  after  which  they  might  follow  its  coasts  as  a 
guide  towards  the  north  and  east.  On  the  4th  of  June,  1741, 
they  accordingly  weighed  anchor  and  steered  south-east-by- 
south,  till,  on  the  I2th,  they  found  themselves  in  latitude 
46°,  without  the  slightest  appearance  of  the  coast  of  De  Ga- 
ma. Convinced  at  last  of  their  error,  they  held  on  a  north- 
erly course  as  far  as  50°  north  latitude,  and  were  just  about  to 
steer  due  east,  with  the  hope  of  reaching  the  continent  of 
America,  when  the  two  ships  were  separated  in  a  violent 
storm  accompanied  by  a  thick  fog.  Behring  exerted  every 
•iSbrt  to  rejoin  his  consort ;  but  all  proved  in  vain.    Ho 


H 


\ 


I 

I 

B 


THEIR   SECOND   VOYAQE. 


63 


ipted  by 
nder  the 
Walton, 
1  results 
siderable 
sn  placed 
d  of  11** 
gr,  no  less 
aal  to  its 
8  harbour 
d.   of  the 
st  res  on 
^re^  -ly  for 
the  e,  the 
rkeu  ;  the 
'chirikow. 
I  Croyere,    - 
im  Steller, 
lied  Tchi- 

as  held,  in 
ould  steer 
for  the  ex- 
e  map  pre- 
3urg  to  the 
Awatscha, 
e  no  land 
>n  the  map 
and,  trust- 
letermined 
liscovering 
Icoasts  as  a 
une,  1741, 
.h-east-by- 
|in  latitude 
of  De  Ga- 
in a  north- 
st  about  to 
Iniinent  of 
a  violent 
•ted  every 
ain.    He 


M 


ciruised  for  three  days  between  50°  and  61®  north  latitude) 
after  which  he  steered  back  to  the  south-east  as  far  as  45°  ; 
but  Tchirikow,  after  the  storm,  had  taken  an  easterly  course 
from  48°  north  latitude,  so  that  they  never  met  again. 

Both,  however,  pursued  their  discoveries  simultaneously, 
and  on  the  15th  of  July,  being  in  56°  north  latitude,  Tchi- 
rikow  reached  the  coast  of  Amr  "iia.     The  shore  proved  to 
be  steep  and  rocky,  and,  in  consequence  of  the  high  surf, 
he  did  not  venture  to  approach  it,  but  anchoring  in  deep 
water,  despatched  his  mate,  Demetiew,  with  the  long-boat 
and  ten  men  on  shore.     The  boat  was  provisioned  for  some 
days,  the  men  armed  and  furnished  with  minute  instructions 
as  to  their  mode  of  proceeding,  and  the  signals  by  which 
they  were  to  communicate  with  the  ship.     But  neither  mate, 
men,  nor  barge  were  ever  again  heard  of.     This  was  the 
more  mysterious,  as  all  at  first  appeared  to  go  well  with 
them.     The  barge  was  seen  from  the  ship  to  row  into  a  bay 
behind  a  small  cape,  and  the  appointed  signals  were  made, 
intimating  that  she  had  landed  in  safety.     Day  after  day 
the  signals   agreed   on   continued  from   the   shore.     The 
people  on  board  began  at  last  to  think  that  the  barge  had 
probably  received  damage  in  landing,  and  could  not  return 
till  she  was  repaired,  and  it  was  resolved  to  send  the  small 
boat  on  shore,  with  the  boatswain  Sawelow  and  six  men. 
Among  these  were   some  carpenters  and  a  careener,  well 
armed  and  provided  with  the  necessary  materials,  and  the 
boatswain  had  orders  to  return  with  Demetiew  in  the  long- 
boat  the   moment   the  necessary  repairs  were  completed. 
But  neither  mate  nor  boatswain  ever  came  back ;  and  the 
most  dark  surmises  of  their  fate  were  excited  by  the  cessa- 
tion of  the  signals,  and  the   continual  ascent  of  a  large 
volume  of  smoke  from  the  landing-place.     Next  day,  how- 
ever, a  revival  of  hope  was  felt  at  the  sight  of  two  boats 
which  were  observed  rowing  from  the  land  towards  the  ship. 
It  was  believed  to  be  Demetiew  and  Sawelow  ;  and  Tchiri- 
kow ordered  all  hands  on  deck,  to  prepare  for  setting  sail  on 
a  moment*s  warning.     A  few  minutes  changed  these  cheer- 
ful anticipations  into  sorrow  ;  for,  as  the  boats  approached, 
it  was  discovered  that  they  were  filled  by  American  savages, 
who,  seeing  many  persons  on  deck,  instantly  shipped  their 
paddles  and  remained  at  a  cautious  distance.     They  then 
stood  up,  and  crying  with  a  loud  voice  "  Agai,  agai !"  re- 


i 


"i  I 


r  I' 


m 


BEHRINO   AND  TCHIRIKOW 


\ 


I    ! 


?■'     ^^5 


turned  with  prpat  speed  to  the  shore.  A  strong  west  wind 
now  rose  nnd  tlirciitcned  to  diish  the  vessel  on  the  rocky 
coast,  so  that  they  were  oblijred  to  weigh  anchor  and  put  to 
sea  without  the  slightest  hope  of  hearing  any  further  intelli- 
gence of  their  men  ;  for  they  had  no  more  small  boats,  and 
all  communication  with  the  shore  was  cut  off.  Tchirikow, 
however,  cruised  some  days  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  when 
the  weather  became  milder,  returned  towards  the  spot  where 
his  people  landed  ;  but  all  appeared  silent,  lonely,  and  un- 
inhabited :  and  in  a  council  of  the  officers,  it  was  determined 
to  set  out  on  their  return,  though  with  the  most  poignant 
regret  at  beinji  oldiged  to  leave  this  remote  and  desolate 
coast  without  hearing  the  slightest  account  of  their  com- 
panions. They  arrived  at  Kamtschatka  on  the  27th  of 
July.*  No  news  of  the  fate  of  Demctiew  and  Sawelow 
ever  reached  Russia  ;  but  it  is  evident  that  they  had  been 
successively  attacked  and  murdered  by  the  savages.  "  The 
natives  of  this  part  of  the  north-west  coast  of  America," 
says  Captain  Burney,  "  live  principally  by  hunting  and 
catching  game,  in  which  occupations  they  are  in  the  con- 
tinual practice  of  every  species  of  decoy.  They  imitate 
the  whistlings  of  birds, — they  have  carved  wooden  masks 
resembling  the  heads  of  animals,  which  they  put  on  over 
their  own  and  enter  the  woods  in  masquerade.  They  had 
observed  the  signals  made  to  the  ship  by  'he  Russian  boat 
which  first  came  I'o  land  ;  and  the  continuance  of  signals 
afterward  seen  and  heard  by  the  Russians  on  board  were 
doubtless  American  imitations."t 

Exactly  three  days  after  Tchirikow  descried  land,  it 
appears  that  Commodore  Behring  also  got  sight  of  the  con- 
tinent in  58°  28",  or,  according  to  another  account,  60°  north 
latitude.  The  prospect  was  magnificent  and  awful,  ex- 
hibiting high  moantains  covered  from  the  summits  with 
snow.  One  of  these,  far  inland,  was  particularly  remarked  : 
it  was  plainly  discernible  sixteen  German  miles  out  at  sea; 
and  Steller  says  in  his  journal,  that  in  all  Siberia  he  had 
not  met  with  a  more  lofty  mountain. t  The  commodore, 
being  much  in  want  of  water,  approached  the  coast  with 


i     ^ 


*  Muller,  D^couvertes  faites  par  lesRnsses,  vol.  i.  p.  254. 

f  Barney's  History  of  North-eastern  Voyages  of  Discovery,  p.  180. 

t  Ibid.  p.  164. 


THEIR  SECOND   VOVAOE. 


65 


the  hope  of  beins;  able  to  land.  He  accordingly  reached  the 
shore  on  the  20th  July,  and  anchored  under  a  large  island 
not  far  from  the  continent.  A  point  of  land  projecting  into 
the  sea  at  this  place  they  called  St.  Ellas  Cape,  as  it  was 
discovered  on  that  saint's  day ;  while  another  headland  was 
denominated  St.  Hermogencs;  and  between  these  lay  a  bay, 
in  which,  if  it  became  necessary  to  take  shelter,  they  trusted 
they  would  find  security.  Two  boats  were  now  launched, 
in  the  first  of  which  Kytrof,  the  master  of  the  fleet,  was 
sent  to  examine  the  bay,  while  Steller  proceeded  with  the 
other  to  fetch  water.  Kytrof  found  a  convenient  anchorage ; 
and  on  an  adjacent  island  were  a  few  empty  huts  formed 
of  smooth  boards,  ornamented  in  some  places  with  rude 
carving.  Within  the  huts  they  picked  up  a  small  box  of 
poplar,  a  hollow  earthen  ball  in  which  a  stone  rattled,  con- 
jectured to  be  a  child's  toy,  and  a  whetstone,  on  which  it 
appeared  that  copper  knives  had  been  sharpened.*  Steller, 
on  the  other  hand,  near  the  spot  where  be  landed,  discovered 
a  cellar  in  which  was  a  store  of  red  salmon,  and  a  sweet 
herb  dressed  for  food  in  the  same  manner  as  in  Kamtschatka. 
Near  them  were  ropes,  and  various  pieces  of  household 
furniture  and  of  domestic  utensils.  At  a  short  distance  he 
came  to  a  place  where  the  savages  had  recently  dined,— 
beside  which  they  found  an  arrow,  and  an  instrument  for 
procuring  fire  exactly  similar  to  that  used  for  the  same  pur- 
pose  in  Kamtschatka.  The  sailors  who  fetched  the  fresh 
water  had  found  two  fireplaces  with  the  ashes  newly  ex- 
tinguished, and  near  them  a  parcel  of  hewn  wood,  with 
some  smoked  fishes  like  large  carp.  They  observed  also 
marks  of  human  footsteps  in  the  grass,  but  no  natives  were 
seen.  In  case,  however,  they  should  return,  some  small 
presents,  such  as  it  was  conjectured  might  be  suited  to  their 
taste  or  their  wants,  were  left  in  the  huts.  These  consisted 
of  a  piece  of  green  glazed  linen,  two  iron  kettles,  two  knives, 
two  iron  Chinese  tobacco-pipes,  a  pound  of  tobacco  leaves, 
and  twenty  large  glass  beads.  Steller,  an  enthusiastic 
iiaturalist,  entreated  that  he  might  have  the  command  of  the 
small  boat  and  a  few  men,  to  complete  a  more  accurate  sur- 
vey of  this  new  coast ;  but  Behring,  who  was  from  his  ad- 
vanced age  rather  timid  and  over-cautious,  put  a  decided 


t 


I 


*  Cdxeli  Rosfllan  Diaoovvries,  p.  49^  48. 

r2 


f 


'i'f 


66 


BEHRINO   AND    TCHIRIKOW  : 


It' 


<:- 


)'   !i 


negative  upon  the  proposal ;  and  his  scientific  compnnion, 
having  climbed  a  steep  rock  to  obtain  a  view  of  the  adjacent 
country,  found  hia  progress  interrupted  by  an  immediate 
order  to  come  on  board.  "  On  descending  the  mountain," 
says  he  in  his  journal,  "  which  was  overspread  with  a  forest 
without  any  traces  of  a  road,  finding  it  impassable,  I  re- 
ascended,  looked  mournfully  at  the  limits  of  my  progress, 
turned  my  eyes  towards  the  continent  which  it  was  not  in 
my  power  to  explore,  and  observed  at  the  distance  of  a  few 
versts  some  smoke  ascending  from  a  wooden  eminence. 
*•  *  *  Again  receiving  a  positive  order  to 

join  the  ship,  I  returned  with  my  collection."* 

Having  put  to  sea  next  day,  the  2 1st  of  July,  they  found 
it  impossible,  according  to  their  original  intention,  to  explore 
the  coast  as  far  as  65°  north  latitude,  as  it  seemed  to  extend 
indefinitely  to  the  south-west.  It  was  studded  with  many 
small  islands,  the  navigation  through  which,  especially 
during  the  night,  was  dangerous  and  tedious.  On  the  30th 
of  July  they  discovered,  in  latitude  56°,  an  island  which  they 
called  Tumannoi  Ostrog,  or  Foggy  Island ;  and  soon  after 
the  scurvy  broke  out  with  the  most  virulent  symptoms  in  the 
ship's  crew  ;  so  that,  in  hopes  of  procuring  water,  they 
again  ran  to  the  north,  and  soon  discovered  the  continent, 
with  a  large  group  of  islands  near  the  shore,  between  which 
they  came  to  anchor.  These  they  called  the  Schumagins, 
after  the  name  of  one  of  their  men  who  died  there.  While 
at  this  anchorage  the  weather  became  boisterous,  and  some 
brackish  water  procured  from  one  of  the  largest  islands 
increased  the  virulence  cff  the  disease,  which  prevailed  to 
an  alarming  degree.  All  attempts  to  put  to  sea  proved  for 
some  diiys  unsuccessful,  owing  to  the  strong  contrary  winds; 
and  at  length  one  morning  they  were  roused  by  a  loud  cry 
from  one  of  the  islands,  upon  which  they  saw  a  fire  burning. 
Soon  after,  two  Americans  rowed  towards  the  ship  in  their 
canoes,  which  in  shape  resembled  those  of  Greenland  and 
Davis's  Strait.  They  stopped,  however,  at  some  distance, 
and  it  was  discovered  that  they  not  only  understood  the 
language  of  the  calumet,  or  pipe  of  peace,  employed  by  the 
North  American  Indians,  but  had  these  symbolical  instru- 
ments  along  with  them.   They  were  sticks  with  hawks'  wings 

*"  Coxe's  R?issian  Discoveries,  p,  40, 11. 


i\    t 


THEIR   SECOND   VOTAGS. 


attached  to  one  end.  It  was  at  first  impossible  to  induce 
the  natives  to  come  on  board  ;  and  Behring,  anxious  to 
establish  a  commutiication,  and  to  become  acquainted  with 
the  country,  despatched  Lieutenant  Waxel  in  the  boat  with 
nine  men  well  armed,  among  whom  was  a  Tschuktschian 
or  Koriak  interpreter.  It  was  found,  however,  that  the 
savages  were  utterly  ignorant  of  his  language  ;  and  Wnxel, 
having  sent  some  men  on  shore,  who  fastened  the  boat  by  a 
long  rope  j)assed  round  a  rook  on  the  beach,*  commenced  a 
friendly  intercourse  by  means  of  signs.  The  Americans 
were  disposed  to  be  on  the  most  amicable  terms  with  their 
new  acquaintances,  giving  them  whales'  flesh,  the  only  pro- 
vision they  appeared  to  possess  ;  and  at  last  one  of  them  so 
far  overcame  his  fears  as  to  join  the  Russian  lieutenant  in 
the  boat,  which  still  lay  a  little  way  from  the  shore.  Anx- 
ious to  conciliate  his  favour  and  treat  him  with  distinction, 
Waxel  somewhat  thoughtlessly  presented  him  with  a  cup 
of  brandy  ;  but  the  effect  proved  the  reverse  of  what  was 
expected.  He  made  the  most  ludicrous  wry  faces,  spit  vio- 
lently out  of  his  mouth  all  that  he  had  not  swallowed,  and 
cried  aloud  to  his  companions  on  the  shore,  complaining 
of  the  treatmfint  he  had  experienced.  "Our  men,"  says 
Mr.  J'  eller  ia  his  journal,  "  thought  the  Americans  had 
sailors'  stomachs,  and  endeavoured  to  remove  his  disgust  by 
presenting  him  with  a  lighted  pipe  of  tobacco,  which  he 
accepted  ;  but  he  was  equally  disgusted  with  his  attempt  to 
smoke.  The  most  civilized  European  would  be  affected  in 
the  same  manner  if  presented  with  toad-stool,  or  rotten  fish 
and  willow  bark,  which  are  delicacies  with  the  Kamtscha- 
dales."  It  was  evident  he  had  never  tasted  ardent  spirits 
or  smoked  tobacco  till  this  moment ;  and  although  every 
effort  was  made  to  sooth  him  and  restore  his  confidence,  by 
offering  him  needles,  glass  beads,  an  iron  kettle,  and  other 
gifts,  he  would  accept  of  nothing,  and  made  the  most  ea((er 
and  imploring  signs  to  be  set  on  shore.  In  this  it  was 
judged  right  to  gratify  him,  and  Waxel,  at  the  same  time, 
called  out  to  the  sailors  who  were  on  the  beach  to  come 
back  ;  the  Americans  made  a  violent  attempt  to  detain  them, 
but  two  blunderbusses  were  fired  over  their  heads,  and  had 
the  effect  of  making  them  fall  flat  on  the  ground,  while  the 
Russians  escaped  and  rejoined  their  companions. 
This  adventure  gave  them  an  opportunity  of  •xamining 


M 


BCflRINO   AND    TCHIRIKOW  ! 


m: 


'tti 


< 


-t 


this  new  people,  now  for  the  first  time  visited  by  EurupennK< 
**The  islanders  were  of  moderate  stature,  but  loUrrtbly  well 
proportioned;  tlioir  nrms  and  legs  vc-ry  fleshy.  '1' heir  hair 
was  straight  and  of  a  glossy  blackness  ;  their  faces  brown 
and  flat,  but  neither  broad  nor  large  ;  their  eyes  were  black, 
and  their  lips  thick  and  turned  upwards  ;  their  necks  were 
short,  their  shoulders  broad,  and  their  bodies  thick  but  not 
corpulent.  Their  upper  garment  was  made  of  whales* 
intestines,  their  breeches  of  seals*  skins,  and  their  caps 
formed  out  of  the  hide  of  sea-lions,  adorned  with  feathers 
of  various  birds,  especially  the  hawk.  Their  nostrils  were 
stopped  with  grass,  and  their  noses  as  flat  as  Ca'mucks*; 
their  faces  pamted,  so  ..«  with  red,  others  with  diflferent 
colours  ;  and  some  of  them,  instead  of  caps,  wore  hats 
of  bark,  coloured  green  and  red,  open  at  the  top,  and 
shaped  like  candle-screens,  apparently  for  protecting  the 
eyes  against  the  rays  of  the  sun.  These  hats  might  lead 
us  to  suppose  that  the  natives  of  this  part  of  America  are 
of  Asiatic  descent ;  for  the  Kamtschadales  and  Koriaks 
wear  the  like,  of  which  several  specimens  may  be  seen  in 
the  Museum  at  St.  Petersburg.'** 

At  this  time  Behring  being  confined  by  severe  sickness, 
the  chief  command  fell  on  Waxel,  who  was  preparing  to 
sail,  when  seven  Americans  came  in  their  boats  to  the  ship*s 
side,  and  two  of  them  catching  hold  of  the  entrance-ladder, 
presented  their  bonnets  and  a  carved  image  of  bone,  bearing 
some  resemblance  to  a  human  figure.  They  likewise  held 
up  the  calumet,  and  would  have  come  aboard,  but  the  sailors 
were  taking  up  the  anchor,  and  the  breeze  freshening,  they 
were  under  the  necessity  of  making  towards  the  shore  as 
quickly  as  possible.  There  was  time,  however,  to  give  a  few 
presents,  and  as  the  ship  passed  by  the  point  where  they 
stood,  she  was  saluted  with  loud  and  friendly  shouls.f 

They  had  now  to  struggle  against  a  tedious  continuance 
of  westerly  wind,  accompanied  with  thick  fogs,  which  ren- 
dered the  navigation  in  these  unknown  seas  perilous  in  the 
extreme.  On  the  24th  of  September  the  mist  cleared  away, 
and  disclosed  a  high  and  desolate  coast,  which  a  strong 
south  wind  made  it  dangerous  to  approach.  The  majority 
of  the  crew  were  by  ihis  time  disabled  by  the  scurvy,  and 

*  Coxe's  Russian  Disppveries,  p.  63. 

t  Bnntey'b  NdrtM-eaattAm  Voyagesof  Disdbvery*  b.  170 


\ 


* 


THEIR    SECOND    VOYAGE. 


69 


the  rest  so  weak,  that  to  manajDje  the  vessel  during  the  tem- 
pcstiious  weather  was  ahnost  inipo8si!)le.  A  violent  gale 
soon  alter  bej^an  to  blow  from  the  west,  which  grailually  in- 
creased, and  drove  the  ship  far  to  the  south-east.  The  storm 
continued  for  seventeen  days, — a  fact  to  which  there  are 
few  parallels  in  the  history  of  shipwrecks  ;  and  the  pilot, 
Andrew  Hesselberjj,  who  bad  served  for  fifty  years  in  seve- 
ral parts  of  the  world,  declared  he  had  never  witnessed  so 
lonjr  and  terrible  a  gale.  Meanwhile  they  carried  as  little 
sail  as  possible,  and  were  driven  for  a  fortnight  at  the  mercy 
of  the  wind,  under  a  sky  as  black  as  mi(lni<j;ht,  so  that  all 
the  time  they  saw  neither  sun  nor  stars.  W  hen  the  storm 
abated,  they  found  themselves,  by  the  ship's  reckoning,  in 
48°  18"  north  latitude.  Stellcr,  in  his  journal,  draws  a 
striking  picture  of  their  extreme  misery  : — "  The  general 
distress  anil  niortality,"  says  he,  "  increased  so  fast,  that 
not  only  the  sick  died,  but  those  who  still  struggled  to  be 
numbered  on  the  healthy  list,  when  relieved  from  their  posts, 
fainted  and  fell  down  dead,  of  which  the  scantiness  of  water, 
the  want  of  biscuits  and  brandy,  cold,  wet,  nakedness,  ver- 
min, fear,  and  terror  were  not  the  least  causes."*  In  these 
ciicumstances  it  became  di.tHcult  to  determine  whether  they 
should  return  to  Kamtschatka  or  seek  a  harbour  on  the 
nearest  American  coast.  Al  last,  in  a  council  of  officers, 
they  embraced  the  first  of  these  alternatives,  and  again  sailed 
north,  after  which  they  steered  towards  the  west. 

On  the  *9th  of  October  they  approached  two  islands 
resembling  the  two  first  of  the  Kurilian  group.  The  long- 
wished-for  roast  of  Kamtschatka,  however,  did  not  appear, 
and  the  comlition  of  the  vessel  and  crew  began  to  be 
deplorable.  The  men,  notwithstanding  their  diseased  state 
and  want  of  proper  food,  were  obliged  to  work  in  the  cold ; 
and  as  the  continual  rains  had  now  changed  into  hail  and 
snow,  and  the  nights  shortened  and  grew  darker,  their  suf- 
ferings were  extreme.  The  commodore  himself  had  been 
for  some  time  totally  disabled  by  disease  from  taking  an 
active  command,  his  wonted  energy  and  strength  of  mind 
left  him,  and  he  became  childishly  suspicious  and  indolent. 
Among  the  seamen  the  sickness  was  so  dreadful,  that  the 
two  sailors  whose  berth  used  to  be  at  the  rudder  were  led 


f 


{ i 


:i 


I      '; 


*  Cox«*s  Russian  Discoveries,  p.  65. 


70 


BEHRINO   AND   TCHIRIROW  : 


to  it  by  others,  who  themselves  could  walk  with  diT  >,Uy, 
When  one  could  steer  no  longer,  nnothcr  equally  feebk  hvkj 
supported  to  his  place.  Many  sails  they  durst  not  hoist, 
because  no  one  was  strong  enough  to  lower  them  in  case 
of  need,  while  some  of  the  sheets  were  so  thin  and  rotten 
that  a  violent  wind  would  have  torn  them  to  pieces.  The 
rest  of  this  interesting  but  deeply  affecting  voyage  may  be 
given  in  the  excellent  abstract  of  Captain  Burney.  "  On 
November  4lh,  at  eight  in  the  morning,  they  once  more  saw 
land  ;  but  only  the  tops  of  the  mountains  at  first  appeared, 
and  the  shore  was  so  distant,  that,  although  they  stood 
towards  it  the  whoh;  day,  night  came  on  before  they  could 
get  near  enough  to  look  for  anchorage.  At  noon  that  day 
they  made  their  latitude  by  observation  to  be  56°  north.  On 
the  morning  of  the  5th,  it  was  discovered  that  almost  all  the 
shrouds  on  the  starboard  side  of  the  ship  were  broken, 
which  happened  from  contraction  and  tenseness  caused  by 
the  frost ;  for,  without  other  mention  made  of  the  weather, 
it  is  complained  that  the  cold  was  insupportable.  In  this 
distress  the  commodore  ordered  the  lieutenant  to  call  all  the 
officers  together,  to  consult  on  their  best  mode  of  proceed- 
ing; and  the  increased  numbers  of  the  sick,  with  the  want 
of  fresh  water,  determined  them  at  all  hazards  to  seek  relief 
at  this  land.  The  wind  was  northerly,  and  they  had  sound- 
ings at  the  depth  of  thirty-seven  fathoms,  with  a  sandy 
bottom.  They  now  steered  in  towards  the  land,  west-south- 
west and  south-west,  and  two  hours  after,  at  five  in  the 
evening,  they  anchored  in  twelve  fathoms,  the  bottom  sand, 
and  veered  out  three-quarters  of  a  cable.  The  sea  now 
began  to  run  high,  and  at  six  the  cable  gave  way.  Another 
anchor  was  let  go,  yet  the  ship  struck  twice,  though  they 
found,  by  the  lead,  five  fathoms  depth  of  water.  The  cable 
quickly  parted  ;  and  it  was  fortunate  a  third  anchor  was  not 
ready,  for  while  they  were  preparing  it  a  high  wave  threw 
the  ship  over  a  banK  of  rocks,  where  all  at  once  she  was  in 
still  water.  They  now  dropped  their  anchor  in  four  fathoms 
and  a  half,  about  600  yards  from  the  land,  and  lay  quiet 
during  the  rest  of  the  night ;  but  in  the  morning  they  found 
themselves  surrounded  with  rocks  and  breakers.  They 
were  certain  that  the  coast  of  Kamtschatka  was  not  far  dis- 
tant ;  but  the  condition  of  the  ship  and  the  crew,  with  the 
idvanced  season  of  the  year,  rendered  it  apparent  that  they 


THEIR   SECOND    VOYAGE. 


71 


hoist, 
in  case 
rotten 
The 
nay  be 
"On 
)re  saw 
peared, 
y  stood 
y  could 
lat  day 
h.     On 
t  all  the 
broken, 
used  by 
veather, 
In  this 
11  all  the 
proceed- 
he  want 
ek  relief 
d  sound- 
a  sandy 
it- south- 
in  the 
m  sand, 
lea  now 
Another 
gh  they 
he  cable 
was  not 
e  threw 


must  remain  upon  this  land  all  winter.  Those  who  were 
able  to  work  wont  on  Hhoro  to  propHre  lodgings  for  the  sick. 
This  thoy  nccomplishtid  by  (li<j^ini{  pits  or  caverns  between 
sonio  siindhilU  noiir  a  l)rt)ok  which  r:tti  from  a  mountain  to 
the  sea,  using  their  sails  as  a  temporary  covering.  There 
was  no  appearance  of  inhabitants  ;  nor  were  any  trees  seen, 
although  driflwood  was  found  along  the  shore.  No  grass 
nor  antiscorbutic  herbs  were  discoverable ;  the  island, 
indeed,  was  so  deeply  covered  with  snow,  that  even  if  it 
produced  any  antiseptic  plants,  the  patients  had  not  strength 
to  lay  them  open  ;  and  at  this  time  the  Russians  were  little 
acquainted  with  the  proper  remedies  for  this  dreadful  dis- 
ease. On  the  8th  of  November  they  began  to  transport  the 
sick  to  the  miserable  habitations  which  had  been  prepared 
for  them  ;  and  it  was  remarkable  that  some  who  seemed  the 
least  reduced,  expired  the  moment  they  were  exposed  to  the 
fresh  air,  and  others  in  making  an  attempt  to  stand  upon 
deck." 

On  the  9th  of  November,  Behring  himself  was  carried 
ashore  by  four  men  on  a  handbarrow,  carefully  secured  from 
the  air.  The  ship  had  been  cast  on  the  east  side  of  the 
island,  and  the  coast  was  examined  both  to  the  north  and 
south  ;  but  no  traces  of  inhabitants  were  found.  Along  the 
shores  were  many  sea-otters,  and  the  interior  swarmed  with 
blue  and  white  foxes.  "We  saw,"  says  Stellerin  his  jour- 
nal, "the  most  dismal  and  terrifying  objects:  the  foxes 
mangled  the  dead  before  they  could  be  buried,  and  were  even 
not  afraid  to  approach  the  living  and  helpless  who  lay  scat- 
tered here  and  there,  and  smell  to  them  like  dogs.  This 
man  exclaimed  that  he  was  perishing  of  cold ;  the  other 
complained  of  hunger  and  thirst ;  and  their  mouths  were  so 
much  affected  by  scurvy  that  their  gums  grew  over  their 
teeth  like  a  sponge.  The  stone-foxes,  which  swarmed  round 
our  dwellings,  became  so  bold  and  mischievous,  that  they 
carried  away  and  destroyed  different  articles  of  provision 

*  **  It  must,"  says  Captain  Bumey,  '*  be  within  the  memory  of  many, 
the  f^reat  care  with  which  the  apartments  or  the  sick  were  guarded 
hgaiiist  the  admission  of  Tresh  air,  and  in  few  instances  more  than  in 
what  was  called  the  sick-berth  on  board  a  ship  of  war,  where  it  was 
customary  to  keep  a  number  of  diseased  ii)ersons  lahourins;  under  differ- 
ent maladies  enclosed  and  crowded  to<;eiher;  and  fortunately,  since  the 
date  of  this  expedition,  the  management  of  ibe  sick  wUb  rev^^ect  to  ilr 
bas  uoderffoae  a  very  eiseatial  reform." 


n 


DEATH   OF   BEHRING. 


'■T   -*  ' 


ikl 


.'.'i 


and  clothing.  One  ^ook  a  shoe,  another  a  boot,  a  third  a 
glove,  a  fourth  a  coat ;  and  they  even  stole  the  iron  imple- 
ments ;  while  all  attempts  to  drive  them  away  were  ineffec- 
tual."* 

Lieutenant  "Waxel,  on  whom,  since  the  illness  of  the 
commodore,  the  command  devolved,  and  Kytrow,  the  ship- 
master, continued  healthy  at  sea ;  and  the  necessity  for 
exertion,  in  seeing  every  thing  sent  on  shore,  had  a  favour- 
able effect  in  repelling  the  attacks  of  the  disease.  At  last, 
however,  they  too  were  laid  up,  and  soon  became  so  weak 
that,  on  the  21st  of  Noven)ber,  they  were  carried  ashore  like 
the  lesfc.  During  this  dreadful  residence  on  the  island,  the 
men  lived  chiefly  on  the  flesh  of  the  sea-otters,  which  was 
so  hard  and  tough  that  it  could  scarcely  l>e  torn  to  pieces  by 
the  teeth.  The  intestines  were  mostly  used  for  the  sick; 
and  Steller,  in  his  descriptions  of  the  marine  animals  of 
these  regions,  reckons  the  flesh  of  the  sea-otter  as  a  specific 
against  the  scurvy.  When  not  wanted  for  food  they  were 
killed  for  their  fine  skins,  900  being  collected  on  the  island, 
and  equally  divided  among  the  crew.  A  dead  whale,  which 
was  thrown  upon  the  coast,  they  called  their  magazine,  as 
it  proved  a  resource  when  nothing  better  could  be  got. 
The  flesh  was  cut  into  small  pieces,  which  they  boiled  a 
long  time  to  separate  the  oil  from  it  as  much  as  possible, 
and  the  remaining  hard  and  sinewy  parts  they  swallowed 
without  chewing. 

In  this  miserable  manner  they  continued  *o  support  life  ; 
but  some  of  the  crew  sunk  daily  under  the  disease,  and  on 
the  8th  of  December  the  commodore  expired.  Behring  was 
an  ofl[icer  of  extraordinary  merit ;  and,  until  reduced  by  the 
disease  of  which  he  became  the  victim,  endowed  with 
unshaken  perseverance  snd  energy.  His  voyage  set  at  rest 
the  disputed  point  regarding  the  separation  of  the  two  con- 
tinents of  Aisia  and  America ;  and  he  has  deservedly 
bequeathed  his  name  to  the  strait  which  he  was  the  first  to 
explore,  and  the  desolate  island  on  which  he  died.  It  is 
melancholy  to  think,  that  after  the  exertions  he  had  made  in 
the  cause  of  naval  discovery,  his  life  terminated  so  miser- 
ably ;  for  it  may  almost  be  said  that  he  was  buried  alive  : 
the  sand  rolled  down  continually  from  the  side  of  the  cav- 


*  06xh^B  Russian  Discoveries,  {>.  Hi,  T4. 


m 


UJi 


third  a 

iniple- 

ineffec- 

of  the 
le  ship- 
sity  for 

favour- 
At  last, 
so  weiik 
\ore  like 
and,  the 
lich  was 
lieces  hy 
tie  sick; 
nials  of 
I  specific 
ley  were 
le  islantl, 
le,  which 
azine,  as 
I  be   got. 

boiled   a 

possiV)le, 
wallowed 

)ort  life; 
>,  and  on 
iring  was 
ed  by  the 

ed  with 
iet  at  rest 
two  con- 
leservedly 
lie  first  to 
led.  It  is 
made  in 

10  miser- 
lied  alive  : 
the  cav- 


STATE    OF    THE    EXPEDITION. 


73 


cm  in  which  he  lay,  and  at  last  covered  his  feet ;  nor  would 
he  suffer  it  to  be  removed,  saying  he  felt  warmth  from  it, 
when  he  was  cold  in  all  other  parts ;  it  thus  gradually  in- 
creased upon  him  till  his  body  was  more  than  half-concealed; 
so  that  when  he  at  last  expired,  it  waii  found  necessary  to 
unearth  him  previously  to  his  being  interred.  "Behring," 
says  Steller,  who  was  by  no  means  disposed  to  exaggerate 
the  good  qualities  of  his  commander,  "  displayed  iu  his  ill- 
ness the  most  atfectinij:  rcsifjnation  to  the  will  of  the  Su- 
preme  Bein^,  and  enjoyed  his  understanding  and  speech  to 
the  last.  He  was  convinced  that  the  crew  had  been  driven 
on  an  unknown  land  ;  yet  he  would  not  terrify  others  by 
declaring  his  opinion,  but  cherished  their  hopes  and  encour- 
atjed  their  exertions.  He  was  buried  according  to  the  Prot- 
estant  ritual,  and  a  cross  was  erected  over  his  grave  to  mark 
the  spot,  and  to  serve  also  as  an  evidence  that  the  Russians 
had  taken  possession  of  the  country."* 

Soon  after  the  death  of  the  commodore  the  whole  crew 
were  sheltered  from  the  severity  of  the  winter  in  subterra- 
nean dwellings  contiguous  to  each  other,  and  recovered  so 
much  strensjth  bv  the  use  of  sweet  and  excellent  water,  and 
the  flesh  c  the  sea-animals  killed  in  hunting,  that  their  ex- 
istence became  comparatively  comfortable.  Of  the  manner 
in  which  they  passed  their  time  during  the  dreary  winter 
months,  from  December  to  May,  StcUer  has  left  us  in  his 
journal  a  minute  and  interesting  account.  In  March  the 
sea-otters  disappeared,  either  from  the  instinct  of  changing 
their  abode  at  particular  seasons  of  the  year,  or  banished  by 
continual  persecution  ;  but  their  place  was  supplied  by  other 
marine  animals,  which,  in  their  turn,  also  left  them.  "  To 
supply  ourselves  with  fuel,"  says  Steller,  "  was  likewise  a 
considerable  labour :  as  the  island  produced  nothing  but 
willow-bushes,  and  the  drift-wood  was  often  deeply  buried  in 
the  snow  till  the  end  of  March,  we  were  compelled  to  bring 
it  from  a  distance  of  even  fifteen  or  sixteen  versts  ;  and  our 
load  upon  these  expeditions  amounted  to  from  sixty  to 
eighty  pounds,  besides  our  hatchets  and  kettles,  with  the 
necessary  implements  for  mending  our  shoes  and  clothes. 
In  April,  however,  we  were  relieved  from  this  labour  by  the 
thaw  and  breaking  up  of  the  vessel."     An  anecdote  of  an 

*  Coxe's  Russian  Discoveries,  p.  79. 
G 


I; 


Ml 


«-l 


I  J   .,  ; 


W: 


74 


THEV    BUILD   A   NEW   VESSEL. 


escape  made  by  them  in  hunting,  as  it  is  given  by  the  same 
lively  writer,  presents  us  with  a  striking  picture  of  their 
manner  of  life  upon  the  island.     "  On  the  5th  of  April,'* 
says  he,  "during  a  gleam  of  favourable  weather,  Steneser 
and   myself,  with  my  Cossack  and  a  servant   of  Behring, 
went  on  a  hunting  expedition.     Having  killed  as  many  sea- 
otters  as  we  were  able  to  carry,  we  made  a  fire  in  a  cliff, 
where  we  proposed  to  pass  the  night.     At  midnight  a  vio- 
lent hurricane  arose,,  and  the  snow  fell  in  such  quantities 
that  we  should  have  been  buried  had  we  not  run  continually 
backwards  and  forwards.     In  the  morning,  after  a  long  and 
fruitless  search  for  shelter,  we  resigned  oursrlves  to  our  fate ; 
but  the  Cossack  fortunatelv  discovered  a  larnre  cavern,  which 
seemed  to  have  been  formed  by  an  earthquake,  where  we 
entered  with  our  provision  and  wf>od.     It  afforded  a  secure 
retreat  from  the  weather,  contain*'^  a  cavity  in  which  we 
could  hide  our  provisions  from  the  dep-r^dations  of  the  stone- 
foxes,  and  was  provided  with  an  aperture  which  served  the 
purpose  of  a  chimney.     The  cave  and  bay,  which   were 
named  in  compliment  to  me,  were  inhabited  by  numerous 
foxes,  which  retired  on  our  approach  through  the  chimney  ; 
but  the  smoke  from  our  fire  caused  such   a  spitting  and 
sneezing  among  them  as  gave  no  small  diversion  to  the 
party.     At  night,  however,  they  occasionally  returned  into 
the  cavern,  and  amused  themselves  with  taking  away  our 
caps,  and  playing  other  similar  gambols.     On  the  4th  we 
returned  to  our  abode   with  a  rich  booty,   and   were   re- 
ceived with  great  delight  by  our  companions,  who  thought 
us  lost."* 

On  the  6th  of  May,  such  of  the  crew  as  were  able  to 
work  began  to  build  from  the  relics  of  the  wreck  a  vessel, 
which  was  intended  to  carry  the  survivors  to  Kamtschatka. 
Their  number  was  now  reduced  to  forty-five,  thirty  having 
died  on  the  island,  including  the  three  carpenters  ;  but  a 
Siberian  Cossack  named  Starodubzow,  who  had  for  some 
time  worked  as  a  shipwright  at  Ochotzk,  superintended  the 
building  of  the  new  ship.  At  first  they  were  put  to  great 
inconvenience  from  a  deficiency  of  tar  ;  but  by  an  ingenious 
contrivance  it  was  extracted  from  the  new  cordage  which 

*  We  have  availed  ourselves  of  Coxe's  translation  of  this  passage,  aa 
published  in  his  Russian  Discoveries,  \k  85,  86. 


RETURN    TO    KAMTSCHATKA. 


75 


e  same 
if  their 
April," 
teneser 
ehring, 
ny  sea- 

a  cliff, 
t  a  vio- 
antities 
;inually 
•ng  and 
iir  fate ; 
,  which 
lere  we 
L  secure 
lich  we 
B  stone- 
ved  the 
h  were 
merous 
imney  ; 
ing  and 

to  the 
ed  into 
vay  our 
4th  we 
ere  re- 
;hought 

able  to 

vessel, 
Ichatka. 

having 
but  a 
ir  some 
Ided  the 
lo  great 

renious 
which 


bsage,  aa 


they  had  to  spare.  After  being  cut  and  picked,  they  put  it 
into  a  large  copper  kettle,  having  a  cover  fitting  close,  with 
a  hole  in  the  middle.  They  then  took  another  vessel  with 
a  similar  cover,  which  they  fixed  firm  in  the  ground,  and 
upon  this  set  the  copper  kettle  turned  upside  down,  the 
apertures  in  the  lids  being  placed  exactly  against  each  other. 
Part  of  this  machinery  was  then  buried  in  the  earth,  and  a 
fire  kindled  round  what  was  above  ground,  by  which  means 
the  tar  of  the  new  cordajje  melted,  and  ran  into  the  inferior 
vessel.  This  contrivance  having  removed  their  greatest 
diflSculty,  by  the  10th  of  x\ugust  the  new  vessel  was  launched, 
and  on  the  16th,  Lieutenant  Waxel  set  sail  with  the  melan- 
choly remnant  of  his  crew  ;  but,  owing  to  contrary  winds, 
tbey  did  not  make  the  coast  of  Kamtschatka  till  the  25th, 
although  from  Behring's  Island  the  distance  was  not  more 
than  thirty  German  miles.  On  the  27th  they  anchored  in 
Awatchka  Bay  ;  and  the  Cossack  Starodubzow,  to  whose 
efforts  in  constructing  the  vesst  1  the  preservation  of  the 
crew  wa«  mainly  owing,  received  the  rank  of  sinbojarski,  a 
degree  of  Siberian  nobility.  Such  is  an  account  of  the 
celebrated  and  unfortunate  expedition  of  Commodore  Beh- 
ring,  of  which  the  results  were  highly  important  to  geo- 
graphical science,  although  dearly  bought  by  the  death  of 
so  many  brave  men. 

Although  Lord  Mulgrave  had  failed  in  his  attempt  to  dis- 
cover, by  a  northerly  course,  a  communication  between  the 
Pacific  and  Atlantic  Oceans,*  the  British  government  did 
not  abandon  all  hope  ;  and  in  1776,  Captain  James  Cook, 
who  had  already  established  his  reputation  as  cK^i  greatest 
of  modern  navigators,  was  selected  by  the  Admir  il  to  con- 
duct another  expedition,  reversing  only  th.i  ^>lan,  ?nj  >'n- 
deavouring  to  sail  from  the  Pacific  into  the  Atlanic,  instead 
of  from  the  Atlantic  into  the  Pacific. 

In  prosecution  of  this  plan,  on  the  12th  ^f  July,  17i^, 
Cook  sailed  from  Plymouth  Sound  in  the  Rf>^oiation-  lea-ing 
instructions  for  the  Discovery,  the  command  of  which  was 
intrusted  to  Captain  Charles  Clerke,  to  join  him  at  the  Cape. 
From  that  place  the  two  ships  proceeded,  in  a  course  marked 
by  important  discoveries,  through  the  southern  hemisphere, 
by  Van  Diemen's  Land,  New-Zealand,  Otaheite,  and  the 

*  Polar  Se8«i  and  Regions,    p.  260-267. 


in 


, 


i 


'■  ;(.  1 


,  :! 


W       COOK  AND  CLERKe's  VOVAGE. 

Sandwich  Tslnncls.     They  then  steered  north-eastward,  and 
on  the  7th  of  March,  in  latitude  44^°  north,  came  in  sight 
of  the   American   continent  at  the   coast   of  New-Albion. 
Owing  to  unfavourable  winds,  which  forced  the  ships  to  the 
south,  it  was  the  2yth  before  Cook  anchored  in  Nootka 
Sound,  where  he  was  soon  visited  by  thirty  boats  of  the 
natives,  carrying  each  from  three  to  seven  or  eight  persons, 
both  men   and  women.     At   first  none  of  the  Americans 
would  venture  within  either  ship,  and  from  the  circumstance 
of  their  boats  remaining  nt  a  short  distance  all  night,  as  if 
on  vi'atch,  it  wjis  evident  they  regarded  the   arrival  of  the 
strangers  with    much   suspicion.     A  friendly   intercourse, 
however,  was  soon  established  ;  and  although   theft,   par- 
ticularly of  any  iron  utensil,  was  unscrupulously  committed, 
they  were   pretty  fair  and   honest  in  their  mode  of  barter. 
*'  They  were,"  says  Cook,  "  docile,  courteous,  and  good- 
natured  ;  but  quick  in  resenting  what  they  looked  upon  as 
an  injury,  and,  like  most  other  passionate  people,  as  soon 
forgetting  it.     Their  stature  was  ralher  below  the  common 
size  of  Kuropeans ;    and  although  at    first,   owing   to   the 
paint  and  grease  which  covered  their  skins,  it  was  believed 
that  they  were  of  a  copper  complexion,  it  was   afterward 
discovered  that  they  were  in  reality  a  white  people.     They 
were   well  armed   with  pikes,  some  headed  with  bone  and 
many  with  iron  ;  becides  which  they  carried  bows,  slings, 
knives,  and  a  short  clu}>.   like  the  patow  of  the  New-Zea- 
landers  ;  their  arrows  were  bnrbed  at  the  point,  and  the  inner 
end  feathered."     A  dispute  occurred  after  the  arrival  of  the 
English,  between  the  inhabitants  cf  the  northern  and  south- 
«^rn  coasts  of  the  sound  ;  but  a  pacific  treaty  was  concluded, 
ai.d  the  event  celebrated  by  a  species  of  music,  in  which 
they  bore  alternate  parts.     "  Their  songs,"  says  Captain 
Burnoy,  who  was  himself  present,  ♦'  were  given  in  turn, 
the  party  singing  having  their  pikes  erected.     When  the 
first  finished  they  laid  down  their  pikes,  and  the  other  party 
reared  theirs.     What  they  sang  was  composed  of  few  notes, 
and  as  wild  as  could  have  been  expected  ;  yet  it  was  solemn 
and  in  unison,  and,  what  I  thought  most  extraordinary,  they 
were  all  well  in  tune  with  each  other.     The  words  were  at 
times  given  out  by  one  man,  as  a  parish-clerk  gives  out  the 
first  line  of  a  psalm."*  , 

*  Burney's  North-eastern  Voyagea  of  Discovery,  p.  213. 


If 


I'   > 


<m^W- 


\ 


SITRVEY  FROM  NOOTKA  TO  NORTON  SOUND.  77 


rtl,  and 
n  sight 
Albion. 
s  to  the 
Nootka 
of  the 
)ersons, 
lerirans 
n  stance 
it,  as  if 
of  the 
icourse, 
it,   par- 
imittcd, 
■  barter. 
(1  jrood- 
jpon  as 
as  soon 
common 
to  the 
believed 
fterward 
,     They 
lone  and 
,  slings, 
BW-Zea- 
he  inner 
1  of  the 
3  south- 
icluded, 
I  which 
Captain 
n  turn, 
en  the 
|er  party 
notes, 
solemn 
•y,  they 
ere  at 
out  the 


i 


It  appeared  evident  to  Captain  Cook  that  previous  to 
this  the  inhabitants  b^fl  never  entertained  any  direct  com- 
munication with  Eu  .  "  They  were  not  startled," 
says  he,  "  by  the  re\  a  musket,  till  one  day,  upon  en- 
deavouring to  prove  1  that  arrows  and  spears  would  not 
penetrate  their  war-uresses,  a  gentleman  of  our  company 
shot  a  musket-ball  through  one  of  them  folded  six  times. 
At  this  they  were  so  much  staggered,  that  their  ignorance 
of  firearms  was  plainly  seen.  This  was  afterward  con- 
firmed when  we  used  them  to  shoot  birds,  the  manner  of 
which  confounded  them."  On  the  ships  leaving  Nootka 
Sound,  the  natives  accompanied  'heir  farewell  with  a  singu- 
lar exhibition  :  "  When  the  anchor  was  heaving  up,"  says 
Burney,  "  they  assembled  in  their  boats,  which  covered  the 
cove,  and  began  a  song,  in  which  they  flourished  the  swords, 
saws,  hatchets,  and  other  things  which  they  had  obtained 
from  us.  In  the  midst  of  this  valedictory  chorus,  one  man, 
mounted  on  a  stage  of  loose  boards,  which  was  supported 
by  the  people  in  the  nearest  canoes  or  boats,  danced  with  a 
wooden  mask  on,  which  he  occasionally  changed,  making 
himself  resemble  sometimes  a  man,  sometimes  a  bird,  and 
sometimes  an  animal.  Of  these  masks  they  have  great 
variety,  and  they  parted  with  them  willingly,  except  those 
of  the  human  face  ;  if  they  sold  any  of  these,  it  seemed  to 
be  with  some  repugnance,  as  if  they  were  parting  with  the 
image  of  a  friend  or  a  relation,  and  were  ashamed  to  be  s  en 
so  doing."* 

From  Nootka  Sound  Captain  Cook  made  a  survey  of  the 
coast  by  Mount  St.  Elias,  till  he  arrived  at  a  cape  which 
turned  short  to  the  north,  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  Cape 
Hinchinbroke ;  thence  he  proceeded  to  Prince  William's 
Sound  ;  after  which  he  pursued  the  coast  to  the  west,  which 
was  found  o  take  a  southerly  direction,  as  described  by 
Behring  and  Tehirikow.  These  navigators,  however,  as 
we  have  seen,  had  not  made  a  very  particular  examination  ; 
and  although  the  tenor  of  Cook's  instructions  did  not  permit 
him  to  devote  much  time  to  the  exploring  rivers  or  inlets,  till 
he  reached  the  latitude  of  65°,  still  that  eminent  officer 
deemed  himself  at  liberty  to  complete  an  accurate  survey  of 
this  hitherto  undiscovered  coast,  from  the  arm  of  the  sea 


i%i 


i 

I 

i 


. 


II  I 


•  Burney's  North-eastern  Voyages  of  Discovery,  p.  217,  218. 

G2 


78     COOK    CROSSES    BEHRINg's    strait    to   ASIA. 


afterward  (lonominatcd  Cook's  Inlet  round  the  great  penin 
sulaof  Ahiskrt,  torminating  in  Cape  Oonamak.    He  thence 
proceeded  aloncr  the  shores   of  Bristol  Uaj',  till  he  doubled 
Cape  Newenham,  from  which  he  .steered  in  a  north-easterly 
direction  and  anchored  in  Norton  Sound.     licaving  this  the 
ships  entered  Behrin;^''s  Strait,  and  followed  the  coast  to  the 
north-west,  till  they  doubled  a  promontory  situated  in  65® 
45"   north  latitude,  which  they  named   Prince  of  Wales* 
Cape,  regarding  it  as  the  western  extremity  of  all  America 
hitherto  known.     Soon  after,  in  the  evening,  they  discerned 
the  coast  of  Asia,  and  standing  across  the  strait  came  to 
anchor  in  a  bay  of  the  Tschuktschi  country,  near  a  village 
from  which  the  natives  crowded  to  the  shore.     Observing 
this.  Cook  landed  with  three  boats  well  armed,  and  was  re- 
ceived by  the  Tschuktschi  with  cautious  courtesy.     About 
forty  men,  armed  each  with  a  spontoon,  besides  bow  and 
arrow,  stood  drawn  up  on  a  rising  ground  close  b"  the  village, 
5),Tiid  as  the  English  drew  near,  three  of  them  came  down 
tt 'Wards  the  shore,  politely  taking  off  their  caps  and  making 
low  bows.     On  seeing  some  of  the  English  leap  from  their 
boats  they  retired,  and  expressed  by  signs  their  desire  that 
ri<.  more  should  land ;  but  when  Cook  advancet-  alone,  with 
Eome  Email  presents  in  his  hand,  their  confidence  was  re- 
stored, and  they  exchanged  for  them  two  fox-skins  and  two 
seahorse-teeth.     All  this  time  they  never  laid  down  their 
weapons,  but  held  them  in  constant  reaJiness,  except  for  a 
short  time,  when  four  or  five  persons  disarmed  themselves 
to  give  the  English  a  song  and  a  dance  ;  even  then,  how- 
ever, they  placed  them  in  such  a  manner  that  they  could 
reach  them  in  an  instant,  and  evidently  for  greater  security 
they  desired  their  audience  to  sit  down  dtiring  the  dance. 
This  Asiatic  people,  although  dwelling  within  fifty  miles  of 
the  American  coast,  were  evidently  a  ditlerent  race  from  the 
inhabitants   of  the   shores  of  Behring's   Strait.     All   the 
American-,  whom  the  Entjlish  had  seen  since  their  arrival 
on  the  coast  were  low  of  stature,  with  round  chubby  faces 
and  high  cheek-bones.     The  Tschuktschi,  on  the  contrary, 
had  long  visages,  and  \  ere  '^tout  and  well  made.     Several 
things  which  they  hal  with  them,  ant^   more   particularly 
their  clothing,   showei!    a   degree  of  ingenuity  surpassing 
Tvhat  one  could  expect  among  so  northern  a  people.     Their 
dress  consisted  of  a  cap,  frock,  breeches,  boots,  and  gloves. 


f 


m 


u 

)enin 
hence 
jubled 
isterly 
lis  the 
to  the 
in65«> 
iVales* 
merica 
eerned 
ime  to 
village 
serving 
vas  re- 
About 
w  and 
village, 
e  down 
tnakiifg 

III  their 
ire  that 
le,  with 

IV  as  re- 
nd two 
m  their 

for  a 
selves 
how- 
could 
ecurity 
dance, 
oiles  of 
om  the 
IVII   the 
arrival 
faces 
ntrary, 
leveral 
;ularly 
assing 
Their 
loves, 


RETURN    OF   THE   EXPEDITION. 


79 


all  made  of  leather  or  skins  extremely  well  dressed,  some 
with  the  fur  on,  some  without  it,  and  the  quivers  which  con- 
tained their  arrows  were  made  of  red  leather  neatly  em- 
broidered, and  extremely  beautiful.* 

From  this  bay  the  ships  again  stood  over  to  the  north- 
east, and  continuing  their  examination  of  the  American 
coast.  Cook  soon  found  himself  surrounded  by  the  dreary 
features  which  mark  the  scenery  of  the  polar  latitudes ;  a 
dark  and  gloomy  sky,  thick  showers  of  snow  and  hail,  and 
immense  fields  and  mountains  of  ice,  covered  in  some  places 
by  the  huge  forms  of  the  walrus  or  seahorse,  which  lay  in 
herds  of  many  hundreds,  huddling  like  swine  one  over  the 
other.  The  flesh  of  these  animals,  when  newly  killed,  was 
preferred  by  the  crew  to  their  common  fare  of  salt  meat, 
but  within  four-and-twenty  hours  it  became  rancid  and  fishy. 
From  a  point  of  land,  which  was  denominated  Cape  Mul- 
grave,  they  now  explored  the  coast  to  the  latitude  of  70° 
29",  where  their  progress  was  arrested  by  an  unbroken  wall 
of  ice,  apparently  stretching  from  continent  to  continent.! 
At  this  time  the  nearest  land  was  about  a  league  distant, 
and  the  farthest  eastern  point  seen  a  low  headland  much 
encumbered  with  ice,  to  which  Cook  gave  the  name  of  Icy 
Cape,  and  which,  till  the  recent  discoveries  of  Captain 
Beechey,  constituted  the  extreme  limit  of  European  dis- 
covery in  that  quarter  of  the  globe.  It  was  now  the  end  of 
August ;  and  as  nothing  further  couKl  be  attempted  at  that 
season  on  the  American  coast,  the  ships  returned  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  with  the  intention  of  resuming  in  the 
succeeding  summer  the  attempt  for  the  discovery  of  a  com- 
munication between  the  Pacific  and  the  Atlantic, — an  ob- 
ject which  their  great  commander  did  not  live  to  execute, 
having  been  killed  in  an  unfortunate  scuffle  with  the  natives 
of  Owhyee  on  the  Uth  of  February,  1779.  The  further 
conduct  of  the  expedition  now  fell  to  Clerke  and  King,  and 
an  attempt  was  made  to  penetrate  beyond  Icy  Cape  ;  but  the 
continued  fields  of  ice  rendcvotl  it  utterly  abortive.  The  ships, 
therefore,  having  repasscvl  llchrinir'H  Strait,  came  to  anchor 
in  the  Bay  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  ir»  Kamtschatka.  Hero 
Captain  Clerke,  who  had  '  -^7  iteen  in  a  dechning  state, 
died  ;  upon  wliich,  to  the  great  satisfuction  of  the  crew  and 

*  Cook's  V'oyagi'H,  vol.  vi.  p.  409,  410,  411. 
t  Ibut.  p.  415,  41). 


} 


i 
1.1 


n 


.  I  i 


I 


b^ 


i^'. 


80 


MEARES'S    FIRST   VOYAGE. 


officers  of  both  ships,  who  were  sick  of  the  dreary  naviga- 
tion in  these  inhospitable  latitudes,  they  returned  home. 

Subsequent  to  the  voyages  of  Cook  and  Gierke,  the  north- 
west coast  of  America  was  visited  at  different  periods  by 
Meares,  Vancouver,  and  Kotzebue  ;  and  though  the  limit  of 
discovery  was  not  extended  beyond  Icy  Cape,  the  shores  were 
more  minutely  examined,  and  a  beneficial  commercial  inter- 
course established  with  the  natives.  Of  Captain  Meares's 
voyages,  the  great  object  was  to  establish  a  trade  between 
China  and  the  north-west  coast  of  America.  For  this  pur- 
pose an  association  of  the  leading  mercantile  men  in  Bengal 
^tted  out  two  vessels, — the  Nootka,  commanded  by  Meares 
himself,  and  the  Sea-otter,  by  Lieutenant  Walter  Tipping. 
The  Sea-otter  in  the  first  instance  took  a  cargo  of  opium 
to  Malacca,  thence  she  proceeded  to  America,  and  is  known 
to  have  made  Prince  William's  Sound  ;  but  after  leaving 
that  harbour  no  accounts  of  her  were  ever  received,  and  it 
appears  certain  that  she  and  her  crew  perished  at  sea.  The 
fate  of  Meares  in  the  Nootka  was  scarcely  more  tolerable. 
After  a  tedious  and  perilous  navigation  in  the  China  seas, 
they  made  their  way  through  the  straits  between  Oonamak 
and  Oonalaska  against  a  current  running  seven  knots  an 
hour,  from  which  they  sailed  across  to  America  by  the 
Schumagin  Islands,  and  anchored  under  Cape  Douglas.* 
Thence  they  proceeded  to  Prince  William's  Sound  to  winter; 
and  their  residence  here  during  October,  November,  and 
December,  though  dreary  and  tedious,  was  not  without  its 
comforts.  The  natives  were  friendly,  and  brought  them 
provisions  ;  they  caught  plenty  of  excellent  salmon,  and 
the  large  flocks  of  ducks  and  geese  afforded  constant  sport 
to  the  officers,  and  a  seasonable  supply  for  the  table.  But 
the  horrors  of  an  arctic  winter  began  soon  to  gather  round 
them.  The  ice  closted  in  upon  the  ship  ;  the  snow  fell  so 
thick  that  all  exercise  became  impossible ;  the  ducks  and 
geese  collected  into  flocks,  and  passed  away  to  the  south- 
ward ;  the  fish  totally  deserted  the  creeks  ;  and  the  natives, 
a  migratory  race,  imitatmg  the  insti  ct  of  these  lower 
species,  travelled  off  in  a  body  with  their  tempoi'ary  wig- 
wams to  a  more  genial  district.  To  add  to  these  distresses 
the  scurvy  made  its  appeal  ince  ;  while  the  sun  described 


*  Meares's  Voyages,  vol. :.  p.  19.    Introductory  Voyage. 


In 


11- 


MEARES  9    FIKST    VOYAGE. 


81 


naviga- 
me. 

3  north- 
iods  by 
limit  of 
•es  were 
al  inter- 
^eares's 
between 
his  pur- 
i  Bengal 
Meares 
ripping, 
f  opium 
s  known 
leaving 
I,  and  it 
sa.     The 
Lolerable. 
ina  seas, 
Donamak 
knots  an 
a  by  the 
)ouglas.* 
winter; 
)er,  and 
thout  its 
ht  them 
non,  and 
mt  sport 
e.     But 
Her  round 
w  fell  so 
icks  and 
le  south- 
natives, 
ae  lower 
ary  wig- 
distresses 
lescribed 


weekly  a  smaller  circle,  find  shed  a  sickly  and  melancholy 
light.  Even  at  noon,  Imough  an  atmosphere  obscured  by 
perpetual  snows,  *'  tremendous  mountains  forbade  almost  a 
sight  of  the  sky,  and  cast  their  nocturnal  shadows  over  the 
ship  in  the  midst  of  day."  The  decks  were  incapable 
of  resisting  the  intense  freezing  of  the  night,  and  the  lower 
part  of  them  was  covered  an  inch  thick  with  a  hoar  frost 
that  had  all  the  appearance  of  snow,  notwithstanding  fires 
were  kept  constantly  burning  twenty  hours  out  of  the  twenty- 
four.  Between  the  months  of  January  and  May,  twenty- 
three  men  died  of  the  scurvy,  and  the  rest  of  the  crew  were 
so  disabled  as  to  be  incapable  of  any  labour  ;  but  the  sun's 
return  and  the  commencement  of  more  genial  weather  pro- 
duced an  instantaneous  elfect  on  the  health  and  spirits  of 
the  crew.  The  natives  returned,  and  assured  the  poor 
sufferers  that  the  cold  must  soon  be  gone,  making  them 
understand  bv  siijns  that  the  summer  would  commence 
about  the  middle  of  May  ;  and  the  sun,  which  now  began 
to  make  a  larger  circle  over  the  hills,  not  only  chased  away 
the  huge  and  gloomy  shadows  that,  like  a  funeral-pall,  h.ad 
covered  the  ship,  but  brought  back  the  fish  to  the  rivers,  and 
the  migratory  birds  to  the  shore  ;  so  that  they  soon  enjoyed 
an  ample  supply  of  fresh  food.  On  the  17th  of  May,  a 
general  breaking  up  of  the  ice  took  place  throughout  the 
cove,  and  the  feeling  that  they  were  once  more  in  clear 
water,  with  the  prospect  of  soon  leaving  a  scene  of  so  much 
distress  and  horror,  cheered  the  mmds  of  the  crew  with  in- 
expressible comfort.*  These  happy  anticipations  were  soon 
realized  by  their  sailing  from  Prince  of  Wales'  Sound  on 
21st  June,  and  reaching  the  hospitable  cluster  of  the  Sand- 
wich Isles,  where  such  was  the  effect  of  the  genial  climate, 
that  in  ten  days'  residence  every  complaint  had  disappeared. 
On  the  2d  of  September  they  left  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and 
arrived  on  the  20th  October  at  Macao  in  China. 

It  may  easily  be  imagined,  that  during  so  disastrou.-?  a 
sojourn  on  the  American  shore,  little  or  no  progress  could 
be  made  in  the  survey  of  the  coast,  which  was  rugged  ;  and 
at  no  great  distance  were  mountains,  covered  with  thick 
woods  for  about  two-thirds  of  their  ascent,  beyond  which 
they  terminated  in  immense  masses  of  naked  rock.     The 


\  1 


■>i ''  1 


Ige. 


Meares's  Voyages,  vol.  i.  Introductory  Voyage,  p.  47. 


82         NATIVES    OF   PRINCE    WILLIAM's    SOUND. 


'(." 


black-pine  grew  in  great  plenty,  and  a  few  black-currant 
bushes  were  noticed,  bu^  no  other  kind  of  fruit  or  vegetable. 
The  number  of  savages  seen  by  Mearos  did  not  exceed  five 
or  six  hundred,  and  these  had  no  fixed  phice  of  abode,  but 
wandered  up  and  down  «s  fancy  or  necessity  impelled  them. 
The}'  wore  strong  and  athletic,  rather  exceeding  the  cr"nmon 
stature  of  Europeans,  with  prominent  cheek-bones,  r  njind 
flat  faces,  eyes  small  and  black,  and  liair,  which  ihey  cut 
short  round  the  head,  of  the  same  jetty  colour.  A  slit  in 
the  under  lip,  parallel  to  the  mouth,  and  a  perforation  in 
the  septum  of  the  nose,  in  which  was  inserted  a  large  quill 
or  a  piece  of  bark,  gave  them  a  hideous  look;  while  ,i  sin- 
gular practice  of  powdering  their  hair  with  the  down  of 
birds,  allowing  the  frostwork  and  icicles  to  hang  from  the 
beard,  and  painting  the  neck  and  face  with  red  ochre,  in- 
creased tlie  savage  singularity  of  their  appearance.  Their 
clothing  consisted  of  a  single  frock  of  the  sea-otter  skin, 
reaching  to  their  knees.  When  employed  in  their  canoes, 
they  used  a  dress  made  of  the  entrails  of  the  whale,  which 
covered  the  head,  and  was  so  disposed  that  it  could  be  tied 
round  the  hole  in  which  they  sat,  so  as  to  prevent  the  water 
from  getting  into  the  canoe,  while  it  kept  the  lower  part 
of  the  body  warm  and  dry.  Their  hardihood  and  capacity 
of  enduring  pain  astonished  the  English,  and  was  remark- 
ably evinced  upon  an  occasion  mentioned  by  Meares  : — "  In 
the  course  of  the  winter,"  says  he,  "  among  other  rubbish, 
several  broken  glas^  bottles  had  been  thrown  out  of  the  ship, 
and  one  of  the  natives,  who  was  searching  among  them,  cut 
his  foot  in  a  very  severe  manner.  On  seeing  it  bleed,  we 
pointed  out  what  had  caused  the  wound,  and  applied  a 
dressing  to  it,  which  he  was  made  to  understand  was  the 
remedy  we  ourselves  applied  on  similar  occasions  ;  but  he 
and  his  companions  instantly  turned  the  whole  into  ridicule, 
and  at  the  same  time  taking  some  of  the  glass,  they  scar- 
ified their  legs  and  arms  in  a  most  cruel  and  extraordinary 
manner,  informing  us  that  nothing  of  that  kind  could  ever 
hurt  them.'"^ 

The  disastrous  result  of  this  first  expedition  did  not  deter 
either  Meares  or  his  liberal  employers  from  hazarding  a 
second  voyage  to  the  same  coast,  which  was  attended  with 


*  Meare8*s  Voyages,  vol.  I.  Introductory  Voyage,  p,  66. 


MEARES  S    SECOND    VOYAGE. 


83 


currant 

getsible. 
t«ed  five 
i)ile,  but 
:>d  them, 
co'iimon 
3,^  ri'Jnd 
ihey  cut 
I   slit  in 
•ation  in 
irjTP  quill 
[\v   I  sin- 
down  of 
from  the 
chro,  in- 
!.     Their 
Iter  skin, 
ir  canoes, 
le,  which 
Id  be  tied 
the  water 
)wer  part 
}  capacity 
s  remark- 
3S  :— "  In 
r  rubbish, 
f  the  ship, 
them,  cut 
bleed,  we 
applied   a 
d  was  the 
s  ;  but  he 
o  ridicule, 
hey  scar- 
•aordinary 
ould  ever 

not  deter 
Izarding  a 
Inded  with 

66. 


rnore  important  roHiilts.  The  Felice,  of  230  tons  burden, 
juid  the  I{)higeni:i,  of  300,  were  fitted  out  on  this  adventure  ; 
the  command  bcinjjr  j^iven  to  (Captains  Mearos  and  Douglas. 
Doth  vessels  were  C()[)per-bottom«'d  and  strongly  built,  and 
their  crews  consisted  of  Europeans  and  Chinese,  among 
whom  were  some  excellent  smiths,  shipwrights,  and  other 
artisans.  The  taking  the  Chinamen  aboard  was  an  experi- 
ment. Before  this  time  they  had  never  formed  part  of  the 
crew  of  an  Entjlish  merchant-ship  ;  and  it  is  but  justice  to 
say  that  they  proved  hardy,  good-humoured,  and  industrious. 
Two  other  very  interesting  passengers  were  on  board  of 
Captain  Meares's  ship, — Teanna,  a  prince  of  Atooi,  one  of 
the  Sandwich  Isles,  who  had  voluntefred  to  leave  his  native 
country  when  Meares  visited  it  during  his  fo  f^r  expedition; 
and  Comekala,  a  native  of  King  George's  id,  who  had 

at  the  same  time  untreated  to  be  carried  to  (  .na.  Of  these 
two  specimens  of  savage  life  Teanna  was  by  far  the  finest, 
both  in  moral  and  in  physical  qualities.  He  was  about 
thirty-two  years  old,  near  six  feet  five  inches  in  stature,  and 
in  strength  almost  Herculean.  His  carriage  was  dignified, 
and,  in  con-^oquence  of  the  respect  paid  to  his  superior  rank 
in  his  own  country,  possessed  an  air  of  distinction,  to  which 
his  familiarity  with  European  manners  had  not  communi- 
cated any  stiffness  or  embarrassment.  Comekala,  on  the 
other  hand,  though  cunning  and  sagacious,  was  i.  stranger 
to  the  generous  qualities  which  distinguished  the  prince  of 
the  Sandwich  Isles.  He  was  kind  and  honest  when  it  suited 
his  own  interest ;  but  stole  without  scruple  whatever  he 
wished  to  have  and  could  not  procure  by  fairer  means. 
Brass  and  copper  were  metals  which  he  might  almost  be  said 
to  worship.  Copper  halfpence,  buttons,  saucepans, — all 
possessed  in  his  eyes  the  highest  charms.  It  was  evident 
that  he  coveted  the  brass  buttons  of  the  captain's  uniform  ; 
and  his  mode  of  fixing  his  eyes  on  the  object  of  his  desire, 
and  the  pangs  of  ungratified  avarice,  as  exhibited  in  the 
contortions  of  his  countenance,  proved  matter  of  much 
anmsement  to  the  crew.  The  cause  of  his  insatiable  thirst 
for  copper  became  afterward  apparent. 

In  the  mean  time  Captain  Meares  found  it  necessary  to 
separate  from  his  consort,  whose  slow  sailing  threatened  to 
impede  his  progress  ;  and  afler  a  long  and  hazardous  pas- 
sage, the  ship  anchored  in  Friendly  Cove  in  King  George's 


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84 


KINO    OEORGE^S    SOUND. COMEKALA. 


Sound,  abreast  of  the  village  of  Nootka,  on  the  morning  of 
the  13th  of  May.     Coraekala,  who  for  several  days  had  been 
in  a  state  of  high  excitation,  now  enjoyed  the  genuine  de- 
light of  once  more  beholding  his  native  shore  ;  and  when 
his  intention  of  landing  was  made  known,  the  whole  inhab- 
itants poured  forth  to  give  him  welcome.     The  dress  in 
which  he  chose  to  appear  for  the  first  time  afler  so  long  an 
absence  was   very  extraordinary  :    on  a  former    occasion, 
when  visited  by  Hannapa,  a  brother  chief,  he  contented 
himself  with  an  ordinary  European  suit ;  but  he  now,  says 
Meares,  arrayed  himself  in  all  his  glory  :  his  scarlet  coat 
was  decorated  with  such  quantities  of  brass  buttons  and 
copper  appendages  of  one  kind  or  other,  that  they  could  not 
fail  to  procure  him  profound  respect  from  his  countrymen, 
and  render  him  an  object  of  unbounded  admiration  to  the 
Nootka  damsels.     At  least  half  a  sheet  of  copper  formed 
his  breastplate ;  from  his  efirs  copper  ornaments  were  sus- 
pended ;  and  he  contrived  to  hang  from  his  hair,  which  was 
dressed  with  a  long  pig-tail,  so  many  handles  of  copper 
saucepans,  that  their  weight  kept  his  head  in  a  stiff  upright 
position,  which  very  much  heightened  the  oddity  of  his  ap- 
pearance.    For  several  of  the  ornaments  with  which  he  was 
now  so  proudly  decorated  Comekala  had  lived  in  a  state  of 
continual  hostility  with  the  cook,  from  whom  he  purloined 
them  ;  but  their  last  and  principal  struggle  vvas  for  an  enor- 
mous spit,  which  the  American  prince  had  seized  as  a  spear, 
to  swell  the  circumstances  of  that  splendour  with  which  he 
was  preparing  to  dazzle  the  eyes  of  his  countrymen.     In 
such  a  state  of  accoutrement,  and  feeling  greater  delight 
than  ever  was  experienced  on  the  proudest  European  throne, 
the  long-boat  rowed  Comekala  ashore,  when  a  general  and 
deafening  shout  from  the  crowd  assured  him  of  the  universal 
joy  felt  on  his  return.     The  whole  inhabitants  moved  to  the 
beach,  welcomed  the  traveller  on  shore,  and  afterward  con- 
ducted him  to  the  king's  house,  which  none  but  persons  of 
rank  were  permitted  to  enter,  and  where  a  magnificent  feast 
of  whale  blubber  and  oil  was  prepared.     On  the  whole, 
Comekala's  reception,  and  the  impression  made  by  his  ex- 
traordinary costume,  evinced  his  intimate  knowledge  of  the 
character  of  his  countrymen  ;  for  though  to  the  English  the 
effect  was  irresistibly  comic,  the  natives  regarded  him  with 
a  mixture  of  silent  awe  and  wonder,  which  after  a  while 


T 


NOOTKA    MUSIC. 


85 


broke  forth  into  expressions  of  universal  astonishment  and 
delight. 

Not  long  after  this  exhibition,  two  ]\ootka  princes,  Ma- 
quilla  and  Uallicum,  paid  a  visit  to  the  English.  Their  little 
squadron,  consisting  of  twelve  canoes  with  eighteen  men 
each,  moved  with  stately  parade  round  the  ship  :  the  men 
wore  dresses  of  beautiful  sea-otter  skins,  covering  them 
from  head  to  heel ;  their  hair  was  powdered  with  the  white 
down  of  birds,  and  their  faces  bedaubed  with  red  and  black 
ochre,  in  the  form  of  a  shark's  jaw  and  a  kind  of  spiral  line, 
which  rendered  their  appearance  extremely  savage.  Eight 
rowers  sat  on  each  side,  and  a  single  man  at  the  bow  ;  while 
the  chiefs,  distinguished  by  a  high  cap,  pointed  at  the  crown 
and  ornamented  with  a  small  tuft  of  feathers,  occupied  a 
place  in  the  middle.  All  this  was  very  striking  *,  but  the 
most  remarkable  accompaniment  was  the  air  which  they 
chanted,  the  effect  of  which  is  described  by  Meares  as  un- 
commonly pleasing.  "  We  listened,"  says  he,  "  to  their  song 
with  an  equal  degree  of  surprise  and  pleasure.  It  was 
indeed  impossible  for  any  ear  susceptible  of  delight  from 
musical  sounds,  or  any  mind  not  insensible  to  the  power  of 
melody,  to  remain  unmoved  by  this  solemn  unexpected  con- 
cert. The  chorus  was  in  unison,  and  strictly  correct  as  to 
time  and  tune ;  nor  did  a  dissonant  note  escape  them. 
Sometimes  they  would  make  a  sudden  transition  from  the 
high  to  the  low  tones,  with  such  melancholy  turns  in  their 
variations,  that  we  could  not  reconcile  to  ourselves  the  man- 
ner in  which  they  acquired  or  contrived  this  more  than  un- 
taught melody  of  nature.  There  was  also  something  for 
the  eye  as  well  as  the  ear,  and  the  action  that  accompanied 
their  voices  added  very  much  to  the  impression  which  the 
chanting  made  upon  us  all.  Every  one  beat  time  with  un- 
deviating  regularity  against  the  gunwale  of  the  boat  with 
their  paddles  ;  and  at  the  end  of  every  verse  they  pointed 
with  extended  arms  to  the  north  and  south,  gradually  sinking 
their  voices  in  such  a  solemn  manner  as  to  produce  an  effect 
not  often  attained  by  the  orchestras  of  European  nations." 
This  account  of  the  impressive  music  of  the  peoplo  of  Nootka 
Sound  is,  the  reader  may  remember,  corroborated  by  Captain 
Bumey.*     The  ceremony,  however,  did  not  end  with  the 


•V 


1 
/ 


Ji 


# 


*  Supra,  p.  76. 

H 


ti  .1 

2     -I 


if" 
«W:.. 


86 


HUNTING   THE    SEA-OTTER. 


i. 


^jf 


Bong  ;  but  after  rowing  twice  round  the  ship,  rising  up  each 
time  as  they  passed  the  stern,  and  vociferating,  "  Wacush ! 
Wacush  !"  (friends,)  they  brought  their  canoes  alongside, 
and  the  two  chiefs  came  on  board.  Both  were  handsome 
men,  of  the  middle  size,  possessing  a  mild  but  manly  expres- 
sion of  countenance.  They  accepted  a  present  of  copper, 
iron,  and  other  articles,  with  signs  of  great  delight,  and 
throwing  otf  their  sea-otter  garments,  laid  them  gracefully  at 
the  feet  of  the  English,  and  stood  on  the  deck  quite  naked. 
Each  of  them  was  presented  with  a  blanket,  which  they 
threw  over  their  shoulders  with  marks  of  high  satisfaction, 
and  descending  into  their  canoes,  were  paddled  to  the  shore. 
A  brisk  trade  in  furs  now  commenced,  which,  though  in- 
terrupted occasionally  by  the  petty  thefts  of  the  savages, 
was  highly  favourable  to  the  commercial  interests  of  the  ex- 
pedition. Skins  of  the  sea-otter,  beaver,  martin,  sable,  and 
river-otter,  of  the  ermine,  black-fox,  gray,  white,  and  red 
wolf,  wolverine,  marmot,  racoon,  bear,  and  mountain-sheep, 
and  in  addition  to  all  these,  of  the  furred,  speckled,  and  com- 
mon seal,  sea-cow,  and  sea-lion,  were  all  procured,  though 
some  in  greater  abundance  than  others.  Of  these  by  far 
the  most  beautiful  and  valuable  was  the  skin  of  the  sea-otter. 
The  taking  of  this  animal  is  attended  with  considerable 
hazard ;  but  constant  practice  has  taught  the  natives  both 
skill  and  courage.  "  When  it  is  determined  to  hunt  the 
sea-otter,"  says  Meares,  "  two  very  small  canoes  are  pre- 
pared, in  each  of  which  are  seated  two  expert  hunters. 
The  instruments  they  employ  are  bows  and  arrows,  with  a 
small  harpoon,  which  differs  somewhat  from  the  instrument 
of  the  same  kind  used  in  hunting  the  whale,  the  shaft  being 
much  the  same ;  but  the  harpoon  itself  of  greater  length, 
and  so  notched  and  barbed  that  when  it  has  once  entered 
the  flesh  it  is  almost  impossible  to  extricate  it.  It  is  attached 
to  the  shaft  by  several  fathoms  of  sufficient  strength  to  drag 
the  otter  to  the  boat.  The  arrows  employed  are  small,  ana 
pointed  with  bone  formed  into  a  single  barb.  Thus  equipped 
the  hunters  proceed  among  the  rocks  in  search  of  their 
prey.  Sometimes  they  surprise  the  animal  when  sleeping 
on  his  back  on  the  surface  of  the  water :  and  if  they 
can  approach  without  waking  him,  which  requires  infinite 
caution  and  skill,  he  is  easily  harpooned  and  dragged  to  the 
boat,  when  a  fierce  battle  often  ensues  between  the  otter  and 


HUNTING   THE    WHALE. 


87 


r  up  each 
A^acush ! 
longside, 
landsome 
y  expres- 
f  copper, 
ight,  and 
cefully  at 
te  naked, 
lich  they 
tisfaction, 
the  shore, 
lough  in- 
savages, 
of  the  ex- 
sable,  and 
,  and  red 
lin-sheep, 
,  and  com- 
id,  though 
Bse  by  far 
sea-otter, 
nsiderable 
tives  both 
hunt  the 
are  pre- 
hunters. 
s,  with  a 
istrument 
lafl  being 
ir  length, 
;e  entered 
attached 
Ith  to  drag 
]mall,  and 
equipped 
of  their 
sleeping 
if  they 
Is  infinite 
;ed  to  the 
otter  and 


the  hunters,  who  are  frequently  severely  wounded  by  his 
teeth  and  claws.  The  more  usual  manner  of  taking  him, 
however,  is  by  pursuit,  and  the  chase  is  sometimes  continued 
for  hours.  As  the  animal  cannot  remain  long  under  water, 
the  skill  is  here  chiefly  exerted  to  direct  the  canoes  in  the 
same  line  which  the  otter  takes  when  under  water,  at  which 
time  he  swims  with  a  celerity  that  greatly  exceeds  that  of 
his  pursuers.  The  moment  he  dives,  therefore,  the  canoes 
separate  in  order  to  have  the  better  chance  of  wounding  him 
with  their  arrows  at  the  moment  he  rises,  although  it  often 
happens  that  this  wary  and  cunning  animal  escapes,  and 
baffles  the  utmost  skill  of  his  persecutors.  Should  it  happen 
that  the  otters  are  overtaken  with  their  young  ones,  the 
instinct  of  parental  affection  comes  out  in  its  most  deep 
and  interesting  shape  ;  all  sense  of  danger  and  of  ^elf-pres- 
ervation  is  instantly  lost,  and  both  male  and  femaie  defend 
their  cubs  with  the  most  furious  courage,  tearing  out  with 
their  teeth  the  arrows  and  harpoons  hxed  in  them,  and  often 
attacking  the  canoes  themselves.  On  such  occasions,  how- 
ever, their  utmost  efforts  are  unavailing,  and  they  and  their 
offspring  never  fail  of  yielding  to  the  power  of  the  hunters."* 
The  hunting  the  whale,  however,  is  a  still  nobler  sport ; 
and  nothing  can  exceed  the  skill  and  intrepidity  with  which 
the  Americans  of  Nootka  engage  in  it.  When  it  is  deter- 
mined to  proceed  against  this  mighty  creature,  the  chief 
prepares  himself  w  ith  great  ceremony  :  he  is  clothed  in  the 
sea-otter's  skin,  his  body  besmeared  with  oil  and  painted 
with  red  ochre  ;  the  canoes  selected  for  the  service  are  of  a 
size  between  those  used  in  war  and  the  ordinary  kind,  and 
contain  eighteen  or  twenty  men,  the  bravest  and  most  active 
that  can  be  found.  When  the  whale  is  discovered,  the  chief 
himself  throws  the  first  harpoon  ;  but  all  the  people  in  the 
various  attendant  canoes  are  armed  with  the  same  instru- 
ment, to  be  employed  as  occasion  may  require.  JlS  soon  as 
the  huge  fish  feels  the  smart  of  the  lirst  weapon,  he  dives, 
and  carries  the  shaft  with  all  its  bladders  along  with  him ; 
on  which  the  boats  follow  in  his  wake,  and  as  he  rises  con- 
tinue to  fix  their  weapons  till  he  finds  it  impossible  to  sink 
from  the  number  of  floating  buoys  attached  to  his  body. 
The  whale  then  drowns,  and  is  towed  on  shore  with  great 


1 


'    ti 


i 


I 


*  Meeur66,vol.  ii.p.  56. 


> 


t. 


t    J 
i 


U 


i 


(^ 


88 


NOOTKA   MECHANICAL   ARTS. 


h 


triumph  and  rejoicing.*  He  is  immediately  cut  up,  part 
being  dedicated  to  the  feast  which  concludes  the  day,  and 
the  remainder  divided  among  those  who  shared  the  dangers 
and  glory  of  the  chase. 

The  ingenuity  of  the  Nootka  savages  in  many  mechanical 
arts  was  very  remarkable.  Their  manufacture  of  harpoons, 
lines,  fish-hooks,  bows  and  arrows,  their  skill  in  tanning  and 
preparing  furs,  their  ingenious  manner  of  forging  the  metals 
procured  from  the  English  into  various  ornaments  for  their 
wives  or  favourites,  and,  above  all,  their  art  in  constructing 
canoes,  astonished  the  European  and  Chinese  artisans.  Of 
the  iron  received  in  exchange  for  furs  they  made  tools  ;  and  it 
was  seldom  they  could  be  prevailed  on  to  use  European 
utensils  in  preference  to  their  own,  with  the  exception  of  the 
saw,  the  utility  of  which  in  abridging  labour  was  imme- 
diately perceived  and  made  available.  They  formed  of  the 
same  metal  a  species  of  tool  for  hollowir^  out  large  trees, 
which  purpose  it  served  far  better  than  any  instrument  the 
carpenters  of  the  Felice  could  give  them.  In  this  operation 
a  flat  stone  was  employed  in  place  of  an  anvil,  while  a  round 
one  served  for  a  hammer  ;  and  with  these  rude  implements 
they  shaped  the  red-hot  iron  into  a  tool  resembling  a  cooper's 
adze,  which  they  fastened  to  a  wooden  handle  with  cords 
made  of  sinews  ;  it  was  then  sharpeuv^d,  and  proved  admi- 
rably adapted  for  the  purposes  for  which  it  was  intended.! 

After  the  English  had  been  for  some  time  in  King  George's 
Sound,  the  Americans  began  to  make  use  of  sails  formed  of 
mats,  in  imitation  of  Captain  Meares's  ship.  Hannapa  got 
the  sailors  to  rig  one  of  his  war-canoes  in  the  English  styie» 
of  which  he  was  extremely  proud,  never  omitting  the  cere- 
mony of  hoisting  his  pendant  whenever  he  approached,  to 
the  great  amusement  of  the  crew.  Not  long  after  this  the 
English  were  waited  upon  by  Wicananish,  a  prince  of  greater 
wealth  and  power  than  any  they  had  yet  seen,  who  invited 
them  to  visit  his  kingdom,  which  lay  at  some  distance  to  the 
southward,  that  a  commercial  intercourse  might  be  estab- 
lished for  the  advantage  of  both  parties.  The  invitation 
was  accepted,  and  Wicananish  himself  met  the  Felice  at 
some  distance  from  the  shore  with  a  small  fleet  of  canoes  ; 
and,  coming  on  board,  piloted  them  into  the  harbour.     They 


*>*  Meares,  vol.  ii.  p.  92, 55. 


t  ZZfuf.  p.  58. 5d. 


t  ■. 


f 


PALACE    OF   WICANANISH. 


89 


jp,  part 
lay,  and 
dangers 

;hanical 
irpoons, 
ling  and 
e  metals 
for  their 
tructing 
ns.     Of 
I ;  and  it 
uropean 
)n  of  the 
J  imme- 
d  of  the 
ge  trees, 
ment  the 
)peration 
}  a  round 
plements 
.  cooper's 
th  cords 
ed  admi- 

nded.t 
George's 
)rmea  of 
apa  got 
^sh  style, 
Ithe  cere- 
iched)  to 
this  the 
if  greater 
invited 
;e  to  the 
le  estab- 
vitation 
elice  at 
canoes ; 
They 


found  the  capital  to  be  at  least  three  times  the  size  of  Nootka. 
The  country  round  was  covered  with  impenetrable  woods  of 
great  extent,  in  which  were  trees  of  enormoub  size.  After 
the  king  and  his  chiefs  had  been  entertained  on  board,  the 
English  were  in  return  invited  to  a  feast  by  Wicananish ; 
and  it  is  not  easy  to  conceive  a  more  interesting  picture  of 
savage  life  than  is  given  by  Meares  on  this  occasion.  "  On 
entering  the  house,"  says  he,  "  we  were  absolutely  aston- 
ished at  the  vast  area  it  enclosed.  It  contained  a  large 
square,  boarded  up  close  on  all  sides  to  the  height  of  twenty 
feet,  with  planks  of  an  uncommon  breadth  and  length. 
Three  enormous  trees,  rudely  carved  and  painted,  formed 
the  rafters,  which  were  supported  at  the  ends  and  in  the 
middle  by  gigantic  images,  carved  out  of  huge  blocks  of 
timber.  The  same  kind  of  broad  planks  covered  the  whole, 
to  keep  out  the  rain  ;  but  they  were  so  placed  as  to  be  re- 
movable at  pleasure,  either  to  receive  the  air  and  light  or 
to  let  out  the  smoke.  In  the  middle  of  this  spacious  room 
were  several  fires,  and  beside  them  large  wooden  vessels 
filled  with  fish-soup.  Large  slices  of  whale's  flesh  lay  in  a 
state  of  preparation,  to  be  put  into  similar  machines  fdled 
with  water,  into  which  the  women,  with  a  kind  of  tongs, 
conveyed  hot  stones  from  very  fierce  fires,  in  order  to  make 
it  boil.  Heaps  of  fish  were  strewed  about ;  and  in  this 
central  part  of  the  square,  which  might  properly  be  called 
the  kitchen,  stood  large  seal-skins  filled  with  oil,  from 
whence  the  guests  were  served  with  that  delicious  beverage. 
The  trees  that  supported  the  roof  were  of  a  size  which  would 
render  the  mast  of  a  first  rate  man-of-war  diminutive  on  a 
comparison  with  them ;  indeed  our  curiosity  as  well  as  our 
astonishment  was  at  its  utmost  stretch  when  we  considered 
the  strength  which  must  have  been  required  to  raise  these 
enormous  beams  to  their  present  elevation,  and  how  such 
strength  could  be  commanded  by  a  people  wholly  unac- 
quainted, as  we  supposed,  with  the  mechanic  powers.  The 
door  by  which  we  entered  this  extraordinary  fabric  was  the 
mouth  of  one  of  these  huge  images,  which,  large  as  it  may, 
from  this  circumstance,  be  supposed  to  have  been,  was  not 
disproportioned  to  the  other  features  of  its  colossal  visage. 
We  ascended  by  a  few  steps  on  the  outside ;  and  after  passing 
the  portal,  descended  down  the  chin  into  the  house,  where 
we  found  new  matter  for  wonder  in  the  number  of  men, 

H2 


I 


11 


^ 


^ 


i    4 


00 


FEAST    GIVEN   TO    THE   ENGLISH. 


^4. 


i . 


:    I 

\ 

"1 

• 

i 

s 

i 

'1 

■«   » 


If 


women,  and  children  who  composed  the  family  of  the  chief, 
which  consisted  of  at  least  800  persons.  These  were  di- 
vided into  groups  according  to  their  respective  offices,  which 
had  distinct  places  assigned  them.  The  whole  of  the  inte- 
rior of  the  building  was  surrounded  by  a  bench,  about  two 
feet  from  the  ground,  on  which  the  various  inhabitants  sat, 
ate,  and  slept.  The  chief  appeared  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
room  surrounded  by  natives  of  rank,  on  a  small  raised  plat- 
form, round  which  were  placed  several  large  chests,  over 
which  hung  bladders  of  oil,  large  slices  of  whale's  flesh,  and 
proportionable  gobbets  of  blubber.  Festoons  of  human 
sculls,  arranged  with  some  attention  to  uniformity,  were 
disposed  in  almost  every  part  where  they  could  be  placed  ; 
and,  however  ghastly  such  ornaments  appeared  to  European 
eyes,  they  were  evidently  considered  by  the  courtiers  and 
people  of  Wicananish  as  a  very  splendid  and  appropriate 
decoration  of  the  royal  apartment."  When  the  English 
appeared  the  guests  had  made  a  considerable  advance  in 
their  banquet.  Before  each  person  was  placed  a  large  slice 
of  boiled  whale,  which,  with  small  wooden  dishes  filled 
with  oil  and  fish-soup,  and  a  muscle-shell  instead  of  a  spoon, 
composed  the  economy  of  the  table.  The  servants  busily 
replenished  the  dishes  as  they  were  emptied,  and  the  women 
picked  and  opened  some  bark,  which  served  the  purpose  of 
towels.  The  guests  despatched  their  messes  with  aston- 
ishing rapidity  and  voracity,  and  even  the  children,  some 
of  them  not  above  three  years  old,  devoured  the  blubber 
and  oil  with  a  rapacity  worthy  of  their  fathers.  Wica- 
nanish in  the  mean  time  did  the  honours  with  an  air  of  hos- 
pitable yet  dignified  courtesy  which  might  have  graced  a 
more  cultivated  society. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  feast,  it  was  intimated  to  the 
English  that  the  proper  time  had  arrived  to  produce  their 
presents.  Upon  this  a  great  variety  of  articles  were  dis- 
played ;  among  which  were  several  blankets  and  two  cop- 
per tea-kettles.  On  these  last,  considered  to  be  almost  in- 
estimable, the  eyes  of  the  whole  assembly  were  instantly 
riveted  ;  and  a  guard  was  immediately  mounted,  who  kept  a 
jealous  watch*over  them  till  curiosity  was  gratified  ;  after 
which  they  were  deposited  in  large  chests  rudely  carved  and 
fancifully  adorned  with  human  teeth.  About  fifty  men  now 
adyanced  into  the  middle  of  the  apartment,  each  holding  up 


%.  -/_- 


BRISK   TRADE    IN    FURS. 


di 


a  sea-otter  skin  nearly  six  feet  in  length,  and  while  they 
remained  in  that  position  the  prince  delivered  a  speech^ 
during  which  he  gave  his  hand  in  token  of  friendship  to  the 
captain,  and  informing  him  that  these  skins  were  the  return 
he  proposed  to  make  for  the  present  he  had  just  received, 
concluded  by  ordering  them  to  be  immediately  con  'ryed  on 
board. 

The  English  now  opened  a  brisk  trade,  procuring  the 
finest  furs,  while  they  were  supplied  with  excellent  pro- 
visions :  salmon,  cod,  halibut,  rock-fish,  and  herrings  were 
brought  to  them  fresh  from  the  water ;  and  the  women  and 
children  sold  them  berries,  '>vild  onions,  salads,  and  other 
esculent  plants.  Wicananish,  however,  was  anxious  to 
establish  a  rigid  monopoly,  and  evinced  the  utmost  jealousy 
le^t  any  neighbouring  princes  should  be  admitted  to  trade 
with  the  English.  None  were  allowed  to  go  on  board 
without  his  license  ;  and  one  unfortunate  stranger  was  de- 
tected without  a  passport,  hurried  into  the  woods,  and,  as 
was  strongly  suspected,  instantly  put  to  death.  At  last  two 
chiefs,  who  had  already  entered  into  some  transactions  with 
Captain  Meares,  remonstrated  against  such  illiberality  ;  and 
Wicananish,  rather  than  go  to  war,  concluded  a  treaty, 
which  had  the  effect  of  restoring  a  good  understanding  by 
mutual  sacrifices.  Hanna  and  Detootche  agreed  to  resign 
to  Wicananish  all  the  otter  skins  in  their  possession,  on 
condition  of  receiving  the  two  copper  tea-kettles  already 
mentioned.  These  last  articles,  however  ludicrous  it  may 
appear  in  the  eyes  of  European  diplomatists,  formed  the 
grand  basis  of  the  treaty,  and  the  terms  of  exchange  were 
not  arranged  without  much  difficulty.  During  these  pro- 
ceedings the  English  had  little  opportunity  to  ex Tcne  the 
country  ;  but  every  thing  which  they  saw  was  invitin^;.  An 
archipelago  extended  from  King  George's  Sound  to  the  har- 
bour of  Wicananish,  most  of  the  islands  being  co^'ered  with 
wood,  with  few  clear  spots.  The  soil  was  rich,  producing 
berries  and  fruits  in  abundance,  and  the  timber  of  uncom- 
mon size  and  beauty,  consisting  chiefly  of  red  oak,  large 
cedar,  black  and  white  spruce-fir.  In  their  expeditions  into 
the  interior  they  met  with  frequent  groves,  where  ahnost 
every  second  tree  was  fit  for  masts  of  any  dimensions.* 

*  Meares's  Voyages,  vol.  1.  p.  239. 


i 


'III 


J'. 


M 


u 


ri 


M    ■ 


!'j  It! 


i' 


92 


STRAIT   OF   JUAN   DE    TV<^k, 


t 


J 


From  Wicananish  Captain  Meares  sailed  southward 
along  a  coast  not  visited  by  Cook,  of  which  the  chart  by 
Maurelle  was  so  inaccurate  that  it  seemed  almost  certain 
he  had  never  surveyed  it  in  person.  During  this  voyage 
they  were  visited  by  a  small  fleet  of  canoes,  filled  with 
people  far  more  savage  than  those  hitherto  met  with. 
The  fHce  of  the  chief  was  bedaubed  with  black  ochre,  and 
powdered  with  a  glittering  sand,  which  communicated  a 
singular  fierceness  of  expression  ;  while  his  manners  were 
rude,  and  gave  no  encouragement  to  any  more  intimate 
intercourse.  Meares  continued  his  survey  of  the  coast  at 
far  north  as  latitude  49°  37' ;  after  which  he  retraced  his 
progress,  and  on  reaching  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fu9a  took 
possession  of  it,  with  all  the  usual  ceremonies,  in  the 
name  of  the  King  of  Great  Britain.  The  existence  of  this 
channel,  which  had  been  doubted  since  its  discovery  in 
1592,  was  now.  positively  ascertained,  and  the  long-boat 
was  despatched  up  the  strait  under  the  command  of  Mr. 
Dufiin,  first  officer  of  the  Felice.  Her  crew  consisted  of 
thirteen  sailors,  well  armed,  and  provisioned  for  a  month. 
In  a  week,  however,  they  returned, — with  their  full  com- 
plement indeed,  but  every  one  of  them  wounded.  They 
had  been  attacked  by  the  natives  with  a  ferocity  and  deter- 
mination which  set  at  naught  the  usual  terror  of  firearms. 
The  assailants  used  their  bows  and  arrows,  clubs,  spearfs 
stone-bludgeons,  and  slings,  with  great  skill  and  courage. 
The  boat  itself  showed  this,  being  pierced  in  numerous 
places  with  the  barbed  arrows,  many  of  which  were  still 
sticking  in  the  awning,  which,  by  intercepting  the  heavy 
showers  of  these  missiles  and  breaking  the  fall  of  the  large 
stones  discharged  from  the  slings,  was  the  principal  means 
of  preserving  the  lives  of  the  crew. 

On  returning  down  the  strait,  they  were  met  by  a  canoe 
paddled  by  two  subjects  of  Wicananish,  and  after  purchas- 
ing some  fish  were  about  to  bid  them  farewell,  when  the 
savages  made  them  aware  that  they  still  had  another  com- 
modity to  dispose  of,  and  to  their  inexpressible  horror 
exhibited  two  human  heads  still  dripping  with  blood. 
"  They  held  up  these  detestable  objects  by  the  hair,"  says 
Meares,  "  with  an  air  of  triumph  and  exultation ;  and  when 
the  crew  of  the  boat  discovered  signs  of  disgust  and  detest- 
ation at  so  appalling  a  8pectac)e»  the  savages,  in  a  tone 


k 


CANNIBALISM. 


03 


thward 
hart  by 
certain 
voyage 
!(!  with 
t   with, 
tre,  and 
cated  a 
srs  were 
intimate 
coast  at 
iced  his 
aqB.  took 
,  in  the 
B  of  this 
overy  in 
ong-boat 
J  of  Mr. 
listed  of 
Bi  month, 
full  com- 
I.    They 
nd  deter- 
firearmt. 
spearfs 
courage, 
umerous 
ere  still 
le  heavy 
he  large 
1  means 

a  canoe 
Ipurchas- 

^hen  the 

ler  com- 

horror 

blood. 

ir,"  says 

id  when 
detest- 
a  tone 


and  with  looks  of  extreme  satisfaction,  informed  them  that 
thoy  were  the  heudu  of  two  people  belonj^ing  to  Tntootche, 
the  enemy  uf  their  own  king  Wicunanish,  whom  they  had 
recently  slain."* 

This  lust  occurrence  threw  a  gloom  over  the  spirits  of 
the  8hip*s  company,  and  caused  them  to  maku  more  minute 
inquiries  into  the  habits  of  the  savages,  which  brought  to 
light  some  very  extraordinary  circumstances.  Mild  and 
amiable  as  were  the  general  manners  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Nootka  Sound,  it  was  discovered  by  their  own  confession 
that  they  not  only  tortured  captives  with  every  refinement 
of  cruelty,  but  feasted  on  human  flesh.  Callicum,  a  chief 
described  by  Meares  as  a  model  of  kindness  and  even  of 
delicacy  in  his  intercourse  with  the  English,  acknowledged 
that  he  slept  nightly  on  a  pillow  filled  With  human  sculls, 
which  he  oflen  exhibited  as  trophies  of  his  valour.  Ma- 
quilla  betrayed  his  cannibal  propensities  in  a  manner  still 
more  decided  :  "  It  so  happened  that  the  chief,  in  ascend- 
ing the  side  of  the  ship,  by  some  untoward  accident  received 
a  hurt  in  the  leg.  Orders  were  immediately  given  to  the 
surgeon  to  attend,  and  when  he  was  about  to  apply  a 
plaster  to  the  wound,  Maquilla  absolutely  refused  to  submit, 
but  sucked  himself  the  blood  which  freely  flowed  from  it ; 
and  when  we  expressed  our  astonishment  and  disgust  at 
such  conduct,  he  replied  by  licking  his  lips,  patting  his 
belly,  and  exclaiming,  ♦  Cloosh,  cloosh,*  or  *  Good,  good  !* 
Nor  did  he  now  hesitate  to  confess  that  he  ate  human 
flesh,  and  to  express  the  delight  he  took  in  banqueting 
upon  his  fellow-creatures  ;  not  only  avowing  the  practice, 
but  informing  the  crew,  as  they  stood  shuddering  at  the 
story,  that  not  long  before  this  the  ceremony  of  killing  and 
eating  a  slave  had  taken  place  at  Friendly  Cove."t  This 
acknowledgment  was  confirmed  by  Callicum  and  Hannapa, 
who,  protesting  they  had  never  tasted  the  smallest  bit  of 
human  flesh  themselves,  described  Maquilla  as  peculiarly 
fond  of  it,  and  in  the  practice  of  killing  a  slave  once  a 
month  to  gratify  his  unnatural  appetite.  Perhaps  there 
might  be  some  exaggeration  in  this ;  but  the  ghastly  orna- 
ments of  Wicananish's  dining-room,  the  extraordinary 
pillow  of  Callicum,  the  exposure  of  men's  heads  and  limba 


•r 


I  i> 


t 


'*■ 


*  Meares's  Voyages,  vol.  i.  p.  289. 


t  Ibid.  vol.  ii.  p.  40. 


I  • 


/  I  f. 


•*^^ 


94       8TRAN0E    TRADITIONS   OF    THE    NATIVE8. 

for  sale,  and  the  admission  of  the  chief  himself,  sufficiently 
prove  the  existence  of  this  atrocious  custom,  whatever 
miffht  bo  the  extent  to  which  it  was  curried. 

For  a  long  time  the  English  thought  the  inhabitants  had 
no  leligious  belief  whatever.  To  the  huge  misshapen 
images  seen  in  their  houses  they  addressed  no  homage  ; 
they  had  neither  priests  nor  temples,  nor  did  they  ofler  any 
sacrifices  ;  but  an  accidental  circumstance  led  to  the  dis- 
covery that,  though  devoid  of  all  superstitious  observances, 
and  wholly  ignorant  of  the  true  God,  they  were  not  with- 
out a  certain  species  of  mythology,  including  the  belief  of 
an  existence  after  death.  "  This  discovery,"  says  Meares, 
"  arose  from  our  inquiries  on  a  very  different  subject : 
On  expressing  our  wish  to  be  infonned  by  what  means 
they  became  acquainted  with  copper,  and  why  it  was  such 
a  peculiar  object  of  their  admiration,  a  son  of  Hannapa, 
one  of  the  Nootkan  chiefs,  a  youth  of  uncommon  sagacity, 
informed  us  of  all  be  knew  on  the  subject ;  and  wc  found, 
to  our  surprise,  that  his  story  involved  a  little  sketch  of 
their  religion."  When  words  were  wanting  he  supplied 
the  deficiency  by  those  expressive  actions  which  nature  or 
necessity  seems  to  communicate  to  people  whose  language 
is  imperfect ;  and  the  young  Nootkan  ci>nveyed  his  ideas 
by  signs  so  skilfully  as  to  render  them  perfectly  intelligible. 
He  related  his  story  in  the  following  manner  : — "  He  first 
placed  a  certain  number  of  sticks  on  the  ground,  at  small 
distances  from  each  other,  to  which  he  gave  separate  names. 
Thus,  he  called  the  first  his  father,  and  the  next  his  grand- 
father :  he  then  took  what  remained  and  threw  them  all 
into  confusion  together,  as  much  as  to  say  that  they  were 
the  general  heap  of  his  ancestors,  whom  he  could  not  indi- 
vidually reckon.  He  then,  pointing  to  this  bundle,  said, 
when  they  lived  an  old  man  entered  the  sound  in  a  copper 
canoe,  with  copper  paddles,  and  every  thing  else  in  his 
possession  of  the  same  metal ;  that  he  paddled  along  the 
shore,  on  which  all  the  people  were  assembled  to  contem- 

Elate  so  strange  a  sight,  and  that,  having  thrown  one  of 
is  copper  paddles  on  shore,  he  himself  landed.  The  ex- 
traordinary stranger  then  told  the  natives  that  he  came 
from  the  sky,  to  which  the  boy  pointed  with  his  hand ; 
that  their  country  would  one  day  be  destroyed,  when  they 
would  all  be  killed,  and  rise  again  to  live  in  the  place  from 


SPECULATIONS    ON  A   NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE.    09 


whence  he  cnme.  Our  young  interpreter  exphiincd  this 
circumstance  of  his  narrative  by  lying  down  as  if  he  were 
dead,  and  then,  rising  up  suddenly,  he  imitated  the  action 
as  if  he  were  soaring  through  the  air.  He  continued  to 
inform  us  that  the  people  killed  the  old  man  and  took  his 
can»)e,  from  which  event  they  derived  their  fondness  for 
copper,  and  he  added  that  the  images  in  their  houses  were 
intended  to  represent  the  form,  and  perpetuate  the  mission, 
of  this  supernatural  person  who  came  from  the  sky."* 

As  the  objects  of  this  voyage  were  principally  of  a  com- 
mercial nature.  Captain  Meares  had  better  opportunities 
to  observe  the  character  of  the  natives  than  to  explore  the 
coast  or  the  interior  of  the  country.  The  range  of  his 
navigation,  extending  only  from  Nootka  Sound  to  the 
latitude  of  49°  37'  north,  disclosed  no  regular  continuity 
of  land,  but  in  every  direction  large  islands,  divided  by 
deep  sounds  and  channels.  The  time  which  this  intclli- 
gejit  seaman  could  spare  was  not  enough  to  complete  the 
survey  ;  but,  judging  from  what  he  did  see,  he  was  led  to 
the  belief  that  the  entire  space  from  St.  George's  Sound  to 
Hudson's  Bay  and  Davis's  Strait,  instead  of  a  continent, 
was  occupied  by  an  immense  archipelago,  through  which 
might  reach  a  passage  from  the  Pacific  into  the  Atlantic 
Ocean.  "  The  channels  of  this  archipelago,"  says  he,  in 
his  memoir  on  the  probable  existence  of  a  north-west 
passage,  "  were  found  to  be  wide  and  capacious,  w  ith  near 
two  hundred  fathoms'  depth  of  water,  and  huge  promon- 
tories stretching  out  into  the  sea,  where  whales  and  sea- 
otters  were  seen  in  an  incredible  abundance.  In  some  of 
these  channels  there  are  islands  of  ice,  which  we  may  ven- 
ture to  say  could  never  have  been  formed  on  the  western 
side  of  America,  which  possesses  a  mild  and  moderate 
climate  ;  so  that  their  existence  cannot  be  reconciled  to 
any  other  idea  than  that  they  received  their  formation  in 
the  eastern  seas,  and  have  been  drifted  by  tides  and  cur- 
rents through  the  passage  for  whose  existence  we  are 
contending."! 

To  determine  thi*  great  question,  and  complete  an  accu- 
rate survey  of  the  north-west  coast  of  America,  Captain 
Vancouver,  an  excellent  officer,  who  had  received  his  pro- 

*  Mearei's  Voyages,  vol.  ii.  p.  70, 71.         t  Itfid.  vol.  u.  p.  242. 


<^ 


) 


1 


m 


rrr-^- 


%   7 


96  VOYAGES  OP  VANCOUVER  AND  KOTZEBUE. 

fessional  education  under  Cook,  was  despatched  in  1790 ; 
and,  commencing  his  voyage  at  Cape  Mendocino,  in  lati- 
tude 41°,  he  sailed  northward  two  hundred  and  nineteen 
leagues  to  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  never  losing  sight 
of  the  surf  which  dashed  against  the  shore,  taking  once  or 
twice  every  day  the  meridional  altitude,  and  minutely 
noting  the  position  of  the  most  conspicuous  points.  The 
whole  coast  presented  an  impenetrable  barrier  against 
approach  from  the  sea,  and  no  opening  was  found  to  afford 
his  vessels  the  smallest  shelter.  He  then  explored  the 
Strait  of  Juan  de  Fu9a ;  and  having  satisfied  himself  that 
no  passage  across  America  was  to  be  discovered  there, 
devoted  his  time  to  the  survey  of  the  labyrinth  of  islands, 
sounds,  and  inletb  between  50°  and  60°  of  latitude.  After 
a  series  of  patient  and  scientific  observations  every  way 
worthy  of  the  school  in  which  he  had  been  bred,  he  ascer- 
taired  the  grand  fact  that  the  coast  was  throughout  con- 
tinuous, and  thus  dispelled  all  hope  of  a  north-west  passage 
in  this  quarter.  It  was  his  fate  to  encounter  not  a  little 
unreasonable  skepticism  when  the  result  was  made  public ; 
and,  like  many  other  travellers  and  navigators,  he  found 
too  much  reason  to  complain  of  those  lazy  closet-philoso- 
phers who  refuse  to  admit  any  testimony  which  happens 
to  contradict  their  own  preconceived  theories.  Time,  how- 
ever, has  done  him  justice,  and  fully  confirmed  the  accu- 
racy of  his  report. 

After  the  disastrous  result  of  the  expedition  of  Behring, 
more  than  eighty  years  elapsed  before  Russia  thought  proper 
to  pursue  the  career  of  discovery  on  the  extreme  coasts  of 
North-western  America.  At  length  Count  Romanzoff,  a 
scientific  and  patriotic  nobleman,  determined  to  despatch 
lieutenant  Kotzebue  on  a  voyage  to  the  straits  which  bear 
the  name  of  that  great  mariner.  His  equipment  consisted 
of  a  single  vessel,  the  Rurick,  one  hundred  tons  burden, 
with  twenty-two  sailors,  a  surgeon,  and  a  botanist.  Having 
doubled  Cape  Horn,  he  arrived  on  the  1 9th  June,  1816,  at 
Awatscha.  Continuing  his  course,  he  passed  the  boundary 
explored  by  Behring,  and  on  the  1st  of  August  descried  on 
his  right,  in  latitude  68°,  a  broad  opening  which  he  trusted 
would  prove  the  long-sought-for  passage.  Having  entered, 
he  landed  on  the  beach,  ascended  a  neighbouring  hill,  and 
saw  nothing  but  water  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.    Full 


5*i. 


COLONIZATION    OF   CANADA. 


97 


of  ardent  expectation  he  employed  a  fortnight  in  examining 
this  sound,  making  a  complete  circuit  of  its  shores.  No 
outlet,  however,  was  discovered,  except  one,  which  it  ap- 
peared almost  certain  communicated  with  Norton  Sound, 
and  Kotzebue  resumed  his  voyage,  which,  however,  was 
attended  with  no  new  or  important  results.  To  this  arm 
of  the  sea,  the  discovery  of  which  forms  the  principal  fea- 
ture in  his  enterprise,  he  has  very  properly  communicated 
his  name. 

With  Kotzebue  terminates  our  account  of  the  progress 
of  discovery  upon  the  north-western  shores  of  America ; 
for  an  outline  of  the  sunrey  made  by  Captain  Beechey  be- 
longs to  a  future  portion  of  this  disquisition.  It  is  a  pleas- 
ing reflection,  that  almost  exclusively  to  the  British  navy 
belongs  the  hard-earned  praise  of  having  explored  nearly 
the  whole  of  this  coast,  with  an  accuracy  which  leaves 
nothing  to  be  desired  by  the  most  scientific  navigator. 


.f 


r 


CHAPTER  III. 


Hearne  and  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie, 

Colonization  or  Canada — French  Fur-trade — Rise  of  Hudson's  Bay 
Company— Hearne's  Tliree  Journeys — North-west  Fur  Company — 
First  Journey  of  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  in  1789— His  Second  £x- 
peditioD  in  1792. 

Having  completed  a  brief  sketch  of  the  progress  of  dis- 
covery along  the  wide  extent  of  the  eastern  and  western 
shores  of  North  America,  from  the  first  expedition  of  Cabot 
to  the  latest  attempts  of  Kotzebue,  two  importarit  subjects 
present  themselves, — the  rise  of  the  fur-trade,  and  the  great 
discoveries  which  were  achieved  by  British  subjects  con- 
nected with  this  branch  of  commercial  enterprise.  The 
expedition  of  Cartier  conferred  on  the  French  that  title  to 
the  countries  round  the  St.  Lawrence  which  results  from 
priority  of  discovery ;  and  other  circumstances  combined 
to  direct  their  efforts  chiefly  to  the  colonization  of  the  more 
northern  tracts  of  America.     Among  these  causes  may  be 

I 


M 


> 


'  *#' 


f     '*' 


n\ 


98 


SI£UR   DE   LA   ROCHE. 


reckoned  the  disastrous  failure  of  their  attempt  to  establish 
a  settlement  in  Florida,  the  great  power  of  the  Spaniards 
in  that  quarter,  and  the  preoccupation  of  the  middle  regions 
of  the  continent  by  the  English.  In  1598,  the  Sieur  de  la 
Roche,  a  Breton  gentleman  of  ancient  family,  obtained  from 
Henry  IV.  a  patent,  equally  unlimited  with  that  granted  by 
Elizabeth  to  Gilbert  and  Raleiu[h.  He  was  nominated 
lieutenant-general  of  Canada,  Hochelaga,  Newfoundland, 
Labrador,  and  of  the  countries  lying  on  the  river  of  the 
great  Bay  of  Norimbega  (meaning  the  St.  Lawrence),  and 
the  supreme  command,  both  civil  and  military,  was  concen- 
trated in  his  single  person.  His  preparations  were  singularly 
disproportionate  to  those  high-sounding  titles,  and  the  whole 
expedition  was  unfortunate.  La  Roche,  with  a  small 
squadron,  and  crews  consisting  principally  of  convicted 
felons,  landed  on  Sable  Island,  near  the  coast  of  Nova 
Scotia.  From  this  barren  spot,  ill  adapted  for  a  settlement, 
he  reached  the  opposite  sliore,  which  he  surveyed  ;  and 
having  intrusted  the  temporary  command  of  the  colony  to 
an  inferior  officer,  he  returned  to  France  to  procure  ad- 
ditional supplies.  On  arriving  in  Brittany,  a  dispute  arose 
between  him  and  the  Duke  de  Mercoeur,  a  nobleman  enjoy- 
ing the  confidence  of  the  French  monarch,  by  whose  in- 
fluence the  royal  favour  was  wholly  withdrawn  from  La 
Roche.  That  adventurer,  deprived  of  all  means  of  prose- 
cuting his  enterprise  in  the  New  World,  soon  after  died  of 
a  broken  heart. 

Meantime  the  colony  on  Sable  Island  were  exposed  to 
famine  and  disease,  and  totally  neglected  by  the  king,  amid 
the  occupation  and  excitement  of  his  vast  political  schemes. 
Their  existence  was  at  length  accidentally  recalled  to  the 
mind  of  Henry,  who  in  deep  remorse  for  his  forgetfulness 
despatched  a  vessel,  which  on  its  arrival  found  only  twelve 
survivors.  They  had  formed  a  hovel  of  the  planks  of  a 
shipwrecked  Spanish  vessel,  supported  themselves  by  fish- 
ing, and  replaced  their  worn-out  European  garments  with 
the  skins  of  the  sea-wolf.  On  their  return  to  France,  the 
monarch  was  greatly  moved  by  the  account  of  their  suffer- 
ings, corroborated  as  it  was  by  their  emaciated  and  haggarc 
aspect,  matted  hair,  beards  which  almost  swept  the  ground, 
and  singular  dress.     He  hastened  to  compensate  for  bis 


CHAUVIN  AND   PONTGRAVE — CHAMPLAIN.        99 

neglect,  by  granting  to  such  as  were  felons  a  free  pardon, 
and  presenting  to  each  a  sum  of  fifty  crowns.* 

These  disasters  were  followed  soon  after  by  an  attempt 
of  Chauvin  and  Pontgrave,  two  fur-merchants,  to  establish 
a  colony  at  Tadoussack,  on  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay, 
which  proved  abortive,  and  gave  place  to  an  expedition  on  a 
more  enlarged  scale,  planned  and  conducted  by  De  Monts, 
a  gentleman  of  Saintonge,  whose  squadron  consisted  of 
forty  vessels.  His  first  settlement  was  on  the  Island  of  St. 
Croix,  from  which  he  removed  to  Port  Royal,  now  known 
by  the  name  of  Annapolis,  where  he  appears  to  have 
abandoned  his  more  pacific  designs  for  the  superior  excitation 
and  profits  of  piracy.  The  complaints  of  the  merchants 
engaged  in  tlie  Newfoundland  fishery  terminated  in  the  re- 
call and  disgrace  of  De  Monts  ;  but  Champlain,  on  whom 
the  command  devolved,  showed  himself  every  way  worthy 
of  the  trust.  From  Tadoussack  he  removed  the  principal 
settlement  to  Quebec,  where  he  built  and  fortified  a  town, 
reduced  the  surrounding  territory  into  cultivation,  and  be- 
came the  founder  of  the  government  of  Canada,  or  New- 
France.  Leaving  his  infant  settlement,  he  next  determined 
to  penetrate  into  the  interior  ;  and  his  emotions  of  wonder 
and  astonishment  may  be  easily  conceived,  when,  ascending 
the  St.  Lawrence,  the  majestic  forests  of  Canada  first  met 
his  eye,  encircling  in  their  bosom  the  greatest  lakes  known 
to  exist  in  the  world.  Surveying  first  the  southern  bank  of 
the  river,  and  of  the  lakes  Ontario  and  Erie,  he  found  that 
he  had  reached  the  very  cradle  of  savage  life,  surrounded 
by  nations  whose  manners,  occupations,  and  superstitions 
were  as  new  as  they  were  bold  and  terrific. 

To  pursue  the  discoveries  of  the  French  into  the  interior 
of  North  America  does  not  properly  fall  within  the  limits 
of  this  work  ;  and  it  is  sufficient  at  present  to  observe,  that 
after  a  long  and  sanguinary  struggle  between  thi.  armies  of 
France  and  England,  in  the  war  which  broke  out  in  1756, 
Canada  was  at  last  subdued  by  the  English,  and  the  pos- 
session of  the  province  confirmed  to  Great  Britain  by  the 
treaty  of  1763.  During  the  war  between  the  United  States 
and  the  mother  country.  Upper  Canada  once  more  became 
the  theatre  of  an  obstinate  contest,  which  concluded,  how- 


r 


*  Histoire  G^n^ral  dea  Voyages,  vol.  ]Liv.  p.  589,  591. 


P9 


N 


■r 


^sTi 


100 


FRENCH    FUR-TRADE. 


m'l 


ft 

r  ? 
I,   \ 


n 


1/ 


1 


ever,  unfavouTably  for  the  American  troops  ;  and  the  country 
has  since  remained  an  integral  part  of  the  British  dominions. 
Under  the  French  the  fur-trade,  notwithstanding  the  re- 
strictions with  which  commerce  was  oppressed,  was  carried 
to  a  great  height   and  embraced   an  immense   extent   of 
country^     It  was  conducted  by  a  set  of  hardy  adventurers, 
who  joined  the  savages  in  their  hunting-parties,  and  thus 
collected  large  cargoes  of  furs  with  which  they  supplied  the 
merchants.     Their   distant   inland  expeditions  sometimes 
occupied  twelve  or  even  eighteen  months  ;  and  during  this 
period  their  uninterrupted  familiarity  with  the  natives  al- 
most transformed  them  into  as  wild  and  barbarous  a  con- 
dition as  that  of  the  tribes  with  whom  they  associated.    "  It 
requires  less  time,"  says  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie,  "  for  a 
civilized  people  to  deviate  into  the  manners  and  customs  of 
savage  life,  than  for  savages  to  rise  into  a  state  of  civiliza- 
tion.    Such  was  the  event  with  those  who  thus  accompanied 
the  natives  on  their  bunting  and  trading  excursions ;  for 
they  became  so  attached  to  the  Indian  mode  of  life,  that 
they  lost  all  relish  for  their  former  habits  and  native  homes. 
Hence  they  derived  the  title  of  Coureurs  de  Bois,  became  a 
kind  of  pedlars,  and  were  extremely  useful  to  the  merchants 
engaged  in  the  fur-trade,  who  gave  them  the  necessary  credit 
to  proceed  on  their  commercial  undertakmgs.     Three  or 
four  of  these   people   would  join  their  stock,   put   their 
property  into  a  birch-bark  canoe  which  they  worked  them- 
selves, and  would  then  either  accompany  the  natives  in  their 
excursions,   or  penetrate   at  once   into  the   country.     At 
length  these  voyages  extended  to  twelve  or  fifteen  months, 
when  they  returned  with  rich  cargoes  of  furs,  and  followed 
by  great  number  of  the  natives.     During  the  short  time 
requisite  to  settle  their  accounts  with  the  merchants  and 
procure  fresh  credit,  they  generally  contrived  to  squander 
away  all  their  gains,  when  they  returned  to  renew  their 
favourite  mode  of  life,  their  views  being  answered  and  their 
labour  sufficiently  rewarded  by  indulging  themselves  in  ex- 
travagance and  dissipation  during  the  short  space  of  one 
month  in  twelve  or  fifteen.  This  indiflference  about  amassing 
property,  and  the  pleasure  of  living  free  from  all  restraint, 
soon  brought  on  a  licentiousness  of  manners  which    could 
not  long  escape  the  vigilant  observation  of  the  missionaries, 
who  had  much  reason  to  complain  of  their  being  a  disgrace 


mntry 
nions. 
he  re- 
larried 
nt  of 
Lurers, 
d  thus 
iod  the 
etimes 
ig  this 
ves  al- 
a  con- 
3.    "It 
"for  a 
oms  of 
iviliza- 
ipanied 
ns;  for 
fe,  that 
homes. 
;came  a 
irchants 
py  credit 
hree  or 
it  their 
theni- 
in  their 
|ry.     At 
ponths, 
follow  ed 
lit  time 
ts  and 
uander 
|w  their 
d  their 
is  in  ex- 
of  one 
assing 
straint, 
could 
naries, 
isgrace 


COURGURS   DE    BOIS — OROSSELIEZ. 


101 


to  the  Christian  religion,  by  not  only  swerving  from  its 
duties  themselves,  but  bringing  it  ip*o  disrepute  with  those 
of  the  natives  who  had  become  converts  to  it,  and  conse- 
quently obstructing  the  great  object  to  which  these  pious 
men  had  devoted  their  lives.  They  therefore  exerted  their 
influence  to  procure  the  suppression  of  these  people  ;  and 
accordingly  no  one  was  allowed  to  go  up  the  country  to 
traffic  with  the  Indians  without  a  license  from  the  French 
government."*  This  change  of  system  was  not  at  first 
attended  with  the  expected  benefits ;  for  the  licenses  were 
sold  in  moat  instances  to  retired  ofl[icers  or  their  widows, 
who  again  disposed  of  them  to  the  fur-merchants,  and  they 
of  necessity  recaUed  to  their  service  the  coureurs  de  hois 
as  their  agents  :  thus  matters  assumed,  though  by  a  some- 
what more  circuitous  process,  the  same  aspect  as  before. 
At  last  military  posts  were  established  at  the  confluence  of 
the  great  lakes,  which  repressed  the  excesses  of  the  wood- 
runners,  and  afforded  protection  to  the  trade  ;  while  under 
this  new  system,  a  body  of  respectable  men,  usually  re- 
tired officers,  introduced  order  and  regularity  in  the  traflSc 
with  the  natives,  co-operated  with  the  efforts  of  the  mission- 
aries, and  extended  their  intercourse  with  the  various  tribes 
to  the  distance  of  two  thousand  five  hundred  miles,  from 
the  most  civilized  portion  of  the  colony  to  the  banks  of  the 
Saskatchewine  river  in  53°  north  latitude,  and  longitude 
102°  west.t  Of  these  trading  commanders  two  individuals 
attempted  to  penetrate  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  but  appear  to 
have  been  unsuccessful. 

The  discoveries  of  the  English  in  Hudson's  Bay,  and  the 
latest  attempts  of  Fox  and  James  to  reach  the  Pacific 
through  some  of  its  unexplored  channels,  have  been  suf- 
ficiently enlarged  upon  in  a  former  volume  ;t  but  though 
unsuccessful  in  their  great  design,  the  accounts  brought 
home  regarding  the  rich  furs  of  these  extreme  northern  shores 
excited  the  attention  of  Grosseliez,  an  enterprising  individual, 
who  undertook  a  voyage  to  survey  the  country,  and  laid 
before  the  French  government  a  proposal  for  a  commercial 

*  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie's  History  or  the  Fur-trade,  prefixed  to  his 
Voyages,  p.  1-3. 
t  Ibid.  p.  6. 

X  Polar  Seas  and  Regions,  chap.  vi. 

12 


f  ! 


n 


w 


102 


HUDSON*S   BAY   COMPANY. 


\l 


I        : 


If  I. 


eettlement  upon  the  coast.  The  minister^  however,  re* 
jected  it  as  visionary  ;  and  Grosseliez,  having  obtained  an 
introduction  to  Mr.  Montagu,  the  English  resident  at  Paris, 
was  introduced  to  Prince  Rupert,  who,  struck  by  the  prob- 
able advantages  of  the  project,  eagerly  patronised  it.  By 
his  interest  with  the  English  king  he  obtained  the  grant  of 
a  ship  commanded  by  Captain  Zachariah  Gillam,  who  sailed 
with  Grosseliez  in  1668,  and  penetrating  to  the  top  of 
James's  Bay,  erected  Fort  Charles  on  the  bark  of  the  Rupert 
River.  In  the  succeeding  year  Prince  Rupert,  with  seven- 
teen other  persons,  were  incorporated  into  a  company,  and 
obtained  an  exclusive  right  to  establish  settlements  and  carry 
on  trade  in  Hudson's  Bay.  Their  charter  recites,  that 
those  adventurers  having  at  their  own  great  cost  undertaken 
an  expedition  to  Hudson's  Bay,  in  order  to  discover  a  new 
passage  into  the  South  Sea,  and  to  find  a  trade  for  furs, 
minerals,  and  other  commodities,  and  having  made  such 
discoveries  as  encouraged  them  to  proceed  in  their  design, 
his  majesty  granted  to  them  and  their  heirs,  under  the 
name  of  "  The  Governor  and  Company  of  Adventurers 
trading  into  Hudson's  Bay,"  the  power  of  holding  and 
alienating  lands,  and  the  sole  right  of  trade  in  Hudson's 
Strait,  and  with  the  territories  upon  the  coasts  of  the  same. 
They  were  authorized  to  fit  out  ships  of  war,  to  erect  forts, 
make  reprisals,  and  send  home  all  English  subjects  entering 
the  bay  without  their  license,  and  to  declare  war  and  make 
peace  with  any  prince  or  people  not  Christian.* 

Instituted  with  such  ample  powers,  and  at  first  placed 
under  the  management  of  enlightened  men,  this  company 
sooii  arrived  at  considerable  prosperity.  They  have,  indeed, 
been  severely  censured  as  exhibiting  little  zeal  to  promote 
discovery,  and  for  uniformly  opposing  every  attempt  on  the 
part  of  their  servants  to  solve  the  long-agitated  question  of 
a  north-west  passage.  There  appears  to  have  been  much 
personal  pique  in  these  accusations  ;  and  the  expedition  of 
Knight,  in  1721,  fitted  out  on  the  most  liberal  scale  at  the 
company's  expense,  and  the  tenor  of  their  original  instruc- 
tions to  their  governor,  certainly  prove  that  they  were  not 
enemies  to  the  cause  of  discovery ;  while  the  failure  of  the 

*  Macpherson's  Anaals  of  Commerce,  vol.  ii.  p,  555, 556. 


i:^t: 


^ 


er,  re- 
ned  an 
t  Paris, 
le  prob- 
it.    By 
rrant  of 
LO  Bailed 
top  of 
I  Rupert 
I  seven- 
iny,  and 
nd  carry 
es,  that 
Jertaken 
;r  a  new 
for  furs, 
ade  such 
r  design, 
nder  the 
venturers 
ling  and 
Hudson's 
he  same, 
ect  forts, 
entering 
id  make 

5t  placed 
company 
!,  indeed, 
promote 
pt  on  the 
[estion  of 
en  much 
[dition  of 
[e  at  the 
instruc- 
ere  not 
'e  of  the 

i6. 


HEARNE. 


103 


voyages  of  Middleton  in  1742,  and  of  Captains  Moore  and 
Smith  in  1746,  must  at  length  have  convinced  the  bitterest 
opponents  of  the  company,  that  if  they  had  not  discovered 
the  long-expected  passage  in  some  of  the  straits  leading 
into  Hudson's  Bay,  it  was  for  the  very  sufficient  reason  that 
such  did  not  exist.  But  the  most  remarkable  refutation  of 
these  allegations  is  to  be  found  in  the  important  and  inter- 
esting journey  of  Hearne,  from  Prince  of  Wales'  Fort  to 
the  Northern  Ocean,  brought  to  a  successful  termination  in 
1772,  which,  in  its  origin  and  progress,  merits  our  particular 
attention. 

The  native  Indians,  who  range  over  rather  than  inhabit 
the  large  tract  of  country  north  of  Churchill  River,  having 
repeatedly  brought  specimens  of  copper  ore  to  the  com- 
pany's factory,  it  was  plausibly  conjectured  that  these  had 
been  found  not  far  from  the  British  settlements ;  and  as 
the  savages  affirmed  that  the  mines  were  not  very  distant 
from  a  large  river,  it  was  imagined,  most  erroneously,  as 
was  proved  by  the  result,  that  this  stream  must  empty 
itself  into  Hudson's  Bay.  In  1768,  the  Indians  who  came 
to  trade  at  Prince  of  Wales'  Fort  brought  further  accounts 
of  this  river,  exhibiting  at  the  same  time  s.\mples  of  copper, 
which  they  affirmed  to  be  the  produce  of  a  mine  in  its 
vicinity.  The  governor  now  resolved  to  despatch  an  intel- 
ligent person  across  the  continent  to  obtain  more  precise 
information.  Samuel  Hearne  was  chosen  for  this  service, 
a  man  of  great  hardihood  and  sagacity,  bred  in  the  employ- 
ment of  the  company,  and  who,  without  pretensions  to 
high  scientific  attainments,  possessed  sufficient  knowledge 
to  enable  him  to  construct  a  chart  of  the  country  through 
which  he  travelled.  His  instructions  directed  him  to  pro- 
ceed to  the  borders  of  the  country  of  the  Athabasca  Indians, 
where  it  was  expected  he  would  meet  with  a  river  repre- 
sented by  the  Indians  to  abound  with  copper  or  3,  and  to 
be  so  far  to  the  north  that  in  the  middle  of  summer  the 
sun  did  not  set.  It  was  called  by  the  natives  Neetha-san- 
san  Dazey,  or  the  Far-ofT  Metal  River ;  and  Mr.  Hearne 
was  directed  to  explore  its  course  to  the  mouth,  where  he 
was  to  determine  the  latitude  and  longitude,  to  ascertain 
whether  it  was  navigable,  and  to  judge  of  the  practica- 
bility of  a  settlement.  He  was  enjoined  also  to  examine 
the  mines  alleged  to  exist  in  that  district,  the  nature  of  the 


II 


Ml 
'i  1 


"f 


104 


hearne's  second  journey  : 


1 


I 


soil  and  its  productions,  and  to  make  every  inquiry  and 
observation  towards  discoveriilg  the  north-west  passage.* 

On  the  6th  of  November,  1 769,  he  set  out  from  Prince  of 
Wales'  Fort,  Hudson's  Bay,  upon  this  perilous  journey. 
He  was  accompanied  by  two  Englishmen  only, — Ilbester 
a  sailor,  and  Merrinian,  a  landsman  ;  by  two  of  the  Home- 
guard  Southern  Indians, — a  name  given  to  those  natives 
residing  as  servants  on  the  company's  plantation,  and  em- 
ployed in  hunting  ;  and  by  eight  Northern  Indians,  under 
the  command  of  Captain  Chuwchinahaw  and  Lieutenant 
Nabyah.  He  was  provided  with  ammunition  for  two  years, 
some  necessary  iron  implements,  a  few  knives,  tobacco, 
and  other  useful  articles.  As  to  his  personal  outfit,  his 
stock  consisted  simply  of  the  shirt  and  clothes  he  wore, 
one  sp{\re  coat,  a  pair  of  drawers,  as  much  cloth  as  would 
make  two  or  three  pairs  of  Indian  stockings,  and  a  blanket 
for  his  bed.  "  The  nature  of  travelling  long  journeys,"  he 
observes,  "  in  these  countries  will  not  admit  of  carrying 
even  the  most  common  article  of  clothing ;  so  that  the 
traveller  is  obliged  to  depend  on  the  district  he  traverses 
for  his  dress  as  well  as  his  sustenance."  The  baseness 
and  treachery  of  the  Indians,  however,  soon  put  a  period 
to  the  first  journey,  and  the  desertion  of  Chawchinahaw 
with  his  whole  escort  rendered  it  absolutely  necessary  for 
the  little  party  to  make  the  best  of  their  way  back  to  the 
fort,  where  they  arrived  on  the  8th  of  December,  after 
penetrating  only  two  hundred  miles  into  the  interior. 

It  was  now  determined  to  resume  the  expedition  with 
greater  precautions  against  failure.  The  Indian  women 
who  accompanied  their  husbands  in  the  first  journey  were 
left  behind,  as  were  the  two  Englishmen,  who  had  been  of 
little  service  ;  and  instead  of  the  treacherous  Chawchina- 
haw,  Hearne  selected  an  Indian  named  Connequeesee, 
who  affirmed  he  was  acquainted  with  the  country,  having 
once  been  near  the  river,  the  discovery  of  which  formed 
one  great  object  of  the  journey.  Attended  by  this  man, 
along  with  three  Northern  Indians  and  two  of  the  Home- 
gui^rd  natives,  the  traveller  once  more  set  out,  on  the  23d 
February,  while  the  snow  was  so  deep  on  the  top  of  the 
ramparts  of  the  fort  that  few  of  the  cannon  could  be  seen. 

*  Hearne's  Journey,  Introduction,  p.  40. 


HIS   SEVERE    SUFFERINttS. 


105 


ry  and 

ige.* 

ince  of 

oumey. 

Ibester 
Home- 
natives 

md  em- 

3,  under 

iutenant 

JO  years, 

tobacco, 

utfit,  his 

lie  wore, 

18  would 

I  blanket 

eys,"  he 
carrying 
that  the 

traverses 
baseness 
a  period 

chinahaw 

jssary  for 
I  to  the 
)er,  after 
or. 

tion  with 
women 
•ney  were 
d  been  of 
lawchina- 
equeesee, 
y,  having 
h  formed 
;his  man, 
le  Home- 
the  23d 
ip  of  the 
be  seen. 


Afler  undergoing  the  severest  extremities  from  hunger  and 
fatigue,  Mr.  Hearne  reached  in  August  the  river  Doobaunt, 
in  latitude  63°  10'  north.  The  progress  thus  far,  however, 
had  been  painful  beyond  measure,  owing  to  the  difficulty 
of  pushing  forward  through  a  wild  unexplored  country, 
intersected  with  rivers,  lakes,  and  woods,  at  the  outset 
thickly  covered  with  snow ;  and  on  the  approach  of  the 
warmer  months  so  flooded  and  marshy  as  to  render  trav- 
elling on  foot  inexpressibly  fatiguing.  To  add  to  this,  the 
voracity,  improvidence,  and  indolence  of  the  Indians  sub- 
jected the  party  to  repeated  distress.  If  from  fishing  or 
hunting  a  larger  supply  than  usual  was  procured,  instead 
of  using  it  with  moderation,  and  laying  up  a  store  for 
future  necessities,  all  was  devoured  by  the  savages,  who, 
like  the  boa  after  he  has  gorged  his  prey,  coiled  them- 
selves up,  and  remained  in  a  state  of  sleepy  torpor  till  the 
call  of  hunger  again  roused  them  to  activity. 

At  first  the  party  subsisted  without  difficulty  on  the  fish 
which  abounded  in  the  lakes  and  rivers  ;  but  in  the  begin- 
ning of  April  they  entirely  disappeared  ;  and  as  the  "  goose 
season,"  or  period  when  the  geese,  swans,  ducks,  and  other 
migratory  birds  resort  to  these  latitudes  was  yet  distant, 
they  began  to  suffer  grievously  from  want  of  provisions. 
Occasionalljr  they  were  relieved  by  killing  a  few  deer  or 
musk-oxen  ;  but  the  ground  and  the  brushwood  were  so 
saturated  with  moisture  from  the  melting  of  the  snow,  that 
to  kindle  a  fire  was  impossible  ;  with  their  clothes  drenched 
in  rain,  and  their  spirits  depressed,  they  were  compelled  to 
eat  their  meat  raw, — a  necessity  grievous  at  all  times,  but 
in  the  case  of  the  flesh  of  the  musk-ox,  which  is  rank, 
tough,  and  strongly  impregnated  with  the  sickening  sub- 
stance from  which  it  derives  its  name,  peculiarly  repulsive 
and  unwholesome.* 

The  simple  and  modest  manner  in  which  these  severe 
sufferings  are  described  by  Hearne  is  peculiarly  striking. 
"To  record,"  says  he,  "in  detail  each  day's  fare  since  the 
commencement  of  this  journey  would  be  little  more  than  a 
dull  repetition  of  the  same  occurrences.  A  sufficient  idea 
of  it  may  be  given  in  a  few  words,  by  observing,  that  it 
may  justly  be  said  to  have  been  either  ail  feasting  or  all 

*  Hearne's  Journey,  p.  31. 


i 


N 


106 


CATIIAWHACHAGA. 


famine  ;  sometimes  we  had  too  much,  seldom  just  enough, 
frequently  too  little,  and  oflen  none  at  all.  It  will  be  only 
necessary  o  say,  that  we  fasted  many  times  two  whole 
days  and  lights,  twice  upwards  of  three  days,  and  once, 
while  at  Shenanhce,  near  seven  days,  during  which  we 
tasted  not  a  mouthful  of  any  thing,  except  a  few  cran- 
berries, water,  scraps  of  old  leather,  and  burnt  bones." 
On  these  pressing  occasions  Hearno  oflen  saw  the  Indians 
examine  their  wardrobe,  which  consisted  chiefly  of  skin 
clothing,  considering  attentively  what  part  could  best  be 
spared,  when  sometimes  a  piece  of  half-rotten  deer-skin, 
and  at  others  a  pair  of  old  shoes,  would  be  sacrificed  to 
alleviate  extreme  hunger.  "None  of  our  natural  wants," 
he  observes,  "  if  we  except  thirst,  are  so  distressing  or 
hard  to  endure  as  hunger,  and  in  wandering  situations  Uke 
that  which  I  now  experienced,  the  hardship  is  greatly 
aggravated  by  the  uncertainty  with  regard  to  its  duration, 
and  the  means  most  proper  to  be  used  to  remove  it,  as  well 
as  by  the  labour  and  fatigue  we  must  necessarily  undergo 
for  that  purpose,  and  the  disappointments  which  too  fre- 
quently frustrated  our  best-concerted  plans  and  most 
strenuous  exertions.  It  not  only  enfeebles  the  body,  but 
depresses  the  spirits,  in  spite  of  every  effort  to  prevent  it. 
Besides  which,  for  want  of  action,  the  stomach  so  far  loses 
its  digestive  powers,  that,  after  lonw  fasting,  it  resumes  its 
office  with  pain  and  reluctance.  During  this  journey  I 
have  too  frequently  experienced  the  dreadful  effects  of  this 
calamity,  and  more  than  once  been  reduced  to  so  low  a 
state  by  hunger  and  fatigue,  that  when  Providence  threw 
any  thing  in  my  way,  my  stomach  has  been  scarcely  able 
to  retain  more  than  two  or  three  ounces  without  producing 
the  most  oppressive  pain."* 

On  the  30th  June,  they  arrived  at  a  small  river  called 
Cathawhachaga,  which  empties  itself  into  White  Snow 
Lake,  in  64°  north  latitude.  Here,  as  the  guide  declared 
they  could  not  that  summer  reach  the  Coppermine  Rivei, 
Hcarne  determined  to  pass  the  winter,  with  the  intention 
of  pushing  on  to  his  destination  in  1771.  They  accord- 
ingly forsook  their  northward  route,  and  taking  a  westerly 
course  were  joined  in  a  few  days  by  many  troops  of  wan* 


*  Kearny's  Journey,  p.  33. 


RETURN   FROM   CATIIAWHACnAOA. 


107 


enough) 
be  only 

0  whole 
1(1  once, 
hich  we 
w  cran- 

bones." 
Indians 
of  skin 
best  be 
leer-skin, 
rificed  to 

1  wants," 
jssing  or 
tions  like 
s  greatly 
duration, 
it,  as  well 
J  undergo 
1  too  fre- 
md    most 
body*  but 
prevent  it. 

far  loses 
isumes  its 
journey  I 
;ts  of  this 

so  low  a 
]ce  threw 
jrcely  able 
[producing 


dering  Indians  ;  so  that  by  the  30th  July  thoy  mustered 
about  seventy  tents,  containing  nearly  six  hundred  souls, 
and  on  moving  in  the  morning  the  whole  ground  seemed 
alive  with  men,  women,  children,  and  dogs.  The  deer 
were  so  plenty  that,  though  lately  five  or  six  individuals 
had  almost  perished  from  hunger,  this  numerous  body  sup- 
ported themselves  with  great  ease,  an<l  often  killed  their 
game  for  the  skins,  leaving  the  carcass  to  be  devoured  by 
the  foxes.*  In  this  manner,  engaged  alternately  in  hunt- 
ing and  fishing,  making  observations  on  the  country,  and 
studying  the  extraordinary  manners  of  his  associates,  the 
English  traveller  was  preparing  for  his  winter  sojourn, 
when  an  accident  rendered  his  quadrant  useless,  and  com- 
pelled him,  on  13th  August,  to  set  out  on  his  return  to  tho 
fort. 

The  hardships  he  endured  on  his  route  homeward  were 
various  and  accumulated.  He  was  plundered  by  the  north- 
ern Indians,  who,  adding  insult  to  injury,  entered  his  tent, 
smoked  a  pipe  which  they  filled  with  tho  white  man*s 
tobacco,  asked  to  see  his  luggage,  and  without  waiting  for 
an  answer  turned  the  bag  inside  out,  and  spread  every 
article  on  the  ground.  The  work  of  appropriation  was 
equally  rapid,  and  the  empty  bag  was  flung  to  the  owner  ; 
but  a  fit  of  compunction  seizing  them,  they  restored  a  knife, 
an  awl,  and  a  needle.  On  begging  hard  for  his  razors, 
they  consented  to  give  up  one,  and  added  enough  of  soap 
to  shave  him  during  the  remainder  of  his  journey,  making 
him  understand  that  the  surrender  of  these  articles  called 
for  his  warmest  gratitude. 

As  the  cold  weather  approached,  the  party  thus  plun- 
dered suffered  grievously  from  want  of  that  warm  deer- 
skin clothing  used  by  the  Indians  at  this  season.  A  dress 
of  this  kind  is  rather  costly,  requiring  the  prime  parts  of 
from  eight  to  eleven  skins.  These  Hearne  at  last  nianaged 
to  collect ;  but  as  the  Indian  women  alone  could  prepare 
them,  he  was  compelled  to  carry  this  load  along  with  him 
from  day  to  day,  earnestly  begging  the  natives  at  each  suc- 
cessive resting-place  to  permit  their  wives  to  dress  his 
skins.  He  met,  however,  with  a  surly  and  uniform  refusal ; 
and  at  last,  after  bearing  the  burden  for  several  weeks,  was 

*  Hefirnc's  Journey,  p.  40. 


-*. 


I 


108 


MATONAnBEE*S     ADVICE. 


i 

■I 


k.      ■!5 


forced  to  throw  it  ofT,  nnd  Buetain  thr  cold  ns  he  hest  eonld, 
without  either  skin-clothing  or  snow-shoes.  When,  con- 
tinuing their  course  in  this  forlorn  condition  to  the  south- 
east, they  met  with  Captain  Matonal)l)ee,  a  powerful  and 
intelligent  chief,  who  was  then  on  his  way  to  Prince  of 
lYales'  Fort  with  furs  and  other  articles  of  trade.  It  was 
this  person  who  brought  the  accountH  of  the  Coppermine 
River,  which  induced  the  company  to  fit  out  the  expe<lition, 
and  he  was  naturally  interested  in  its  success.  He  evinced 
the  utmost  activity  in  relieving  their  wants,  furnished  them 
with  a  warm  suit  of  otter  and  other  skins,  and,  not  being 
able  to  provide  them  with  snow-shoes,  directed  them  to  a 
small  range  of  woods,  where  they  found  materials  for  both 
shoes  and  sledges.  Matonabbee  then  treated  the  party  to 
a  feast,  and  took  occasion  in  his  conversation  with  Hcarne 
to  explain  the  causes  of  his  failure,  and  to  offer  his  assist- 
ance in  a  third  expedition.  He  attributed  all  their  misfor- 
tunes to  the  misconduct  of  the  guide,  and  to  their  having 
no  women  with  them.  "  In  an  expedition  of  this  kind," 
said  he,  "  when  all  the  men  are  so  heavily  laden  that  they 
can  neither  hunt  nor  travel  to  any  considerable  distance,  in 
case  they  meet  with  success  in  hunting,  who  is  to  carry 
the  produce  of  their  labour  1  Women  were  made  for 
labour  ;  one  of  them  can  carry  or  haul  as  much  as  two  men 
can  do.  They  also  pitch  our  tents,  make  and  mend  our 
clothing,  keep  us  warm  at  night ;  and  in  fact  there  is  no 
such  thing  as  travelling  any  considerable  distance,  or  for 
any  length  of  time,  in  this  country,  without  them ;  and  yet, 
though  they  do  every  thing,  they  are  maintained  at  a 
trifling  expense ;  for,  as  they  always  act  the  cook,  the  very 
licking  of  their  fingers  in  scarce  times  is  sufficient  for  their 
subsistence."*  Assisted  by  this  friendly  chief,  the  Eng- 
lish traveller  again  set  forward,  and  after  experiencing  an 
intense  degree  of  cold,  by  which  the  favourite  dog  in  his 
sledge  was  frozen  to  death,  he  reached  the  fort  on  25th 
November,  having  been  absent  eight  months  and  twenty- 
two  days.     Matonabbee  arrived  a  few  days  after. 

Though  twice  compelled  to  return,  Hearne,  whose  spirit 
was  not  to  be  overcome  by  fatigue  or  disappointment,  of- 
fered his  services  to  proceed  on  a  third  journey,  which  was 

*  Hearne's  Journey,  p.  55. 


IIEARNE^S   THIRD    JOURNEY. 


109 


ultimately  crowned  witii  success.  For  this  he  engaged 
Matonabbee  as  guide,  and  declined  taking  any  Homc-guard 
Indians.  Their  place,  however,  was  occupied,  according  to 
the  principles  already  laid  down,  by  seven  of  Matonabbee's 
wives,  who,  by  the  assistance  they  ntforded,  did  no  dispar- 
agement to  the  singular  |/ii'ture  ot  tcniule  activity  which  he 
had  drawn.  They  set  out  on  the  7th  of  December,  and 
notwithstanding  frequent  privations,  want  of  food,  and  in- 
tense cold,  their  sufferings  were  not  so  aggravated  as  in  the 
former  attempts.  The  country  through  which  they  passed 
towards  the  west  was  wild  and  barren,  occasionally  covered 
with  thick  shrubby  woods  of  stunted  pine  and  dwarf  juniper, 
studded  with  frequent  lakes  and  swamps,  whose  sides  were 
fringed  with  willows.  Through  this  ground  they  travelled 
in  high  spirits,  but  on  rather  short  commons,  owing  to  the 
scarcity  of  deer,  and  the  improvidence  of  the  Indians,  who 
consumed  every  thing  in  the  store  during  the  first  days  of 
their  march,  trusting  to  find  a  stock  of  provisions  which 
they  had  hid  in  a  certain  spot  on  their  way  to  the  fort.  On 
reaching  the  place,  however,  they  discovered  that  the  pro- 
visions had  been  carried  off;  and  the  equanimity  with  which 
the  Indians  bore  the  disappointment,  and  travelled  forward 
under  the  conjoined  miseries  of  hunger  and  fatigue,  was 
very  striking.  At  last  they  succeeded  in  killing  a  few  deer, 
and  halted  to  take  some  refreshment.  For  a  whole  day  they 
never  ceased  eating,  and  an  additional  repast  on  two  large 
buck-deer,  which  they  killed  a  few  days  after,  at  last  fairly 
overcame  Captain  Matonabbee,  who,  after  devouring  at  one 
sitting  as  much  as  would  have  satisfied  six  moderate  men, 
seemed  soinewhat  unreasonably  astonished  to  find  himself 
indisposed. 

Having  recovered  from  the  effects  of  this  surfeit,  they 
proceeded  from  Island  Lake  towards  the  main  branch  of  the 
Cathawhachaga,  which  they  crossed,  and  directing  their 
course  by  Partridge  Lake  and  Snow  Bird  Lake,  arrived  oa 
the  2d  March  at  a  large  tent  of  Northern  Indians,  not  far 
from  the  Doobaunt  Whoie  River.  Although  these  people 
had  remained  in  the  same  spot  since  the  beginning  of  win- 
ter, they  found  a  plentiful  subsistence  by  catching  deer  in  a 
pound.  Their  mode  of  accomplishing  this  is  to  select  a 
well-frequented  deer-path,  and  enclose  with  a  strong  fence 
of  twisted  trees  and  brushwood  a  space  about  a  mile  in  oir- 

K 


* 


T 


no 


V   CATCHING    DEER   IN   A   POUND. 


^: 


cumference,  and  sometimes  more.  The  entrance  of  thepcunel 
is  not  larger  than  a  common  gate,  and  its  inside  is  crowded 
with  innumerable  small  hedges,  in  the  openings  of  which 
are  fixed  snares  of  strong  well-twisted  thongs.  One  end  i« 
generally  fastened  to  a  growing  tree  ;  and  as  all  the  wood 
and  jungle  within  the  enclosure  is  left  standing,  its  interior 
forms  a  complete  labyrinth.  On  each  side  of  the  door,  a 
line  of  small  trees,  stuck  up  in  the  snow  fifteen  or  twenty 
yards  apart,  form  two  sides  of  an  acute  angle,  widening 
gradually  from  the  entrance,  from  which  they  sometimes 
extend  two  or  three  miles.  Between  these  rows  of  brush- 
wood runs  the  path  frequented  by  the  deer.  When  all  things 
are  prepared,  the  Indians  take  their  station  on  some  emi- 
nence commanding  a  prospect  of  this  path,  and  the  moment 
any  deer  are  seen  going  that  way,  the  whole  encampment, 
men,  women,  and  children,  steal  under  cover  of  the  woods 
till  they  get  behind  them.  They  then  show  themselves  in 
the  open  ground,  and,  drawing  up  in  the  form  of  a  cres- 
cent, advance  with  shouts.  The  deer,  finding  themselves 
pursued,  and  at  the  same  time  imagining  the  rows  of  brushy 
poles  to  be  people  stationed  to  prevent  their  passing  on  either 
side,  run  straight  forward  till  they  get  into  the  pound.  The 
Indians  instantly  close  in,  block  up  the  entrance,  and  while 
the  women  and  children  run  round  the  outside  to  prevent 
them  from  breaking  or  leaping  the  fence,  the  men  enter 
with  their  spears  and  bows,  and  speedily  despatch  such  as 
are  caught  in  the  snares  or  are  running  loose.* 

On  the  8th  of  April,  they  reached  an  island  in  a  small 
lake  named  Thelewey-aza-weth,  and  pitched  their  tent ;  and 
as  the  deer  were  numerous,  and  the  party,  which  had  been 
joined  by  various  wandering  Indians,  now  amounted  to  sev- 
enty persons,  they  determined  to  remain  for  some  time,  and 
make  preparations  for  their  enterprise  in  the  ensuing  sum- 
mer. They  were  busily  employed  during  their  intervals 
from  hunting,  in  providing  staves  of  birch  about  one  and  a 
quarter  inch  square  and  seven  or  eight  feet  long,  which 
served  for  tent-poles  all  the  summer,  and  were  converted 
into  snow-shoes  in  winter.  Birch-rind,  with  timbers  and 
other  wood  for  canoes,  formed  also  objects  of  attention ; 
and  as  Clowey,  the  place  fixed  upon  for  building  their  ca- 


^. 


*  Heame's  Journey,  p.  7&-80. 


NORTHERN    INDIAN    WOMEN. 


HI 


lepcund 
crowded 
>f  which 
le  end  ia 
he  wood 
I  interior 
s  door,  a 
r  twenty 
widening 
•metimes 
f  brush- 
ill  things 
me  emi- 
moment 
mpment, 
16  woods 
selves  in 
f  a  cres- 
emselves 
>f  brushy 
on  either 
id.  The 
md  while 
)  prevent 
en  enter 
such  as 

a  small 
!nt ;  and 
lad  been 
d  to  sev- 
ime,  and 
ing  sum- 
intervals 
ne  and  a 
g,  which 
onverted 
)ers  and 
tention ; 
their  ca- 


noes,  was  still  many  miles  distant,  all  the  wood  was  reduced 
to  its  proper  size  to  make  it  light  for  carriage.  At  this 
place  Matonabbee  solaced  himself  by  purchasing  from  some 
Northern  Indians  another  wife,  who  for  size  and  sinews 
might  have  shamed  a  grenadier.  "  Take  them  in  a  body," 
says  Heame,  **  and  the  Indian  women  are  as  destitute  of 
real  beauty  as  those  of  any  nation  I  ever  saw,  although 
there  are  some  few  of  them  when  young  who  are  tolerable  ; 
but  the  care  of  a  family,  added  to  their  constant  hard  labour, 
soon  make  the  most  beautiful  among  them  look  old  and 
wrinkled,  even  before  they  are  thirty,  and  several  of  the 
more  ordinary  ones  at  that  age  are  perfect  antidotes  to  the 
tender  passion.  Ask  a  Northern  Indian  What  is  beauty  ] 
he  will  answer,  A  broad  flat  face,  small  eyes,  high  cheek- 
bones, three  or  four  broad  black  lines  across  each  cheek,  a 
low  forehead,  a  large  broad  chin,  a  hook  nose,  and  a  tawny 
hide.  These  beauties  are  greatly  heightened,  or  at  least 
rendered  more  valuable,  if  the  possessor  is  capable  of  dress- 
ing all  kinds  of  skins,  and  able  to  carry  eight  or  ten  stone 
in  summer,  and  to  haul  a  far  greater  weight  in  winter. 
Such  and  similar  accomplishments  are  all  that  are  sought 
afler  or  expected  in  an  Indian  Northern  woman.  As  to 
their  temper,  it  is  of  little  consequence  ;  for  the  men  have 
a  wonderful  facility  in  making  the  most  stubborn  comply 
with  as  much  alacrity  as  could  be  expected  from  those  of 
the  mildest  and  most  obliging  turn  of  mind."* 

Before  starting  from  this  station,  Matonabbee  took  the 
precaution  of  sending  in  advance  a  small  party  with  the 
wood  and  birch-rind  ;  they  were  directed  to  press  forward 
to  Clowey,  a  lake  near  the  barren  ground,  and  there  build 
the  boat,  to  be  ready  upon  their  arrival.  When  the  jour- 
ney was  about  to  be  resumed,  one  of  the  women  was  taken 
in  labour.  The  moment  the  poor  creature  was  delivered, 
"  which,"  says  Hearne,  "  was  not  till  she  had  suffered  a 
severe  labour  of  fifty-two  hours,"  the  signal  was  made  for 
setting  forward ;  the  mother  took  her  infant  on  her  back, 
and  walked  with  the  rest ;  and  though  another  person  had 
the  humanity  to  haul  her  sledge  for  one  day  only,  she  was 
obliged  to  carry  a  considerable  load  in  addition  to  her  little 
one,  and  was  compelled  frequently  to  wade  knee-deep  in 


*? 


*  Ifearne's  Journey,  p.  89,  90, 


.* 


112 


ARRIVAL    AT    CLOWEY. 


H 


A 


water  and  wet  snow.  Amid  all  this,  her  looks,  pale  and 
emaciated,  and  the  moans  which  burst  from  her,  sufficiently 
proved  the  intolerable  pain  she  endured,  but  produced  no 
effect  upon  the  hard  hearts  of  her  husband  and  his  com- 
panions. When  an  Indian  woman  is  taken  in  labour,  a 
small  tent  is  erected  for  her,  at  such  a  distance  from  the 
encampment  that  her  cries  cannot  be  heard,  and  the  other 
women  are  her  attendants,  no  male  except  children  in  arms 
ever  offering  to  approach ;  and  even  in  the  most  critical 
cases  no  assistance  is  ever  given, — a  conduct  arising  from 
the  opinion  that  nature  is  sufficient  to  perform  all  that  is 
necessary.  When  Hearne  informed  them  of  the  assistance 
derived  by  European  women  from  the  skill  and  attention  of 
regular  practitioners,  their  answer  was  ironical  and  charac- 
teristic. "  No  doubt,"  said  they,  "  the  many  hump-backs, 
bandy-legs,  and  other  deformities  so  common  among  you 
EngUsh  are  owing  to  the  great  skill  of  the  persons  who 
assisted  in  bringing  them  into  the  world,  and  to  the  extra- 
ordinary care  of  their  nurses  afterward."* 

In  eleven  days  they  travelled  a  distance  of  eighty-five 
miles,  and  on  the  3d  May  arrived  at  Clowey,  where  they 
were  joined  by  some  strange  Indians,  and  commenced  the 
important  business  of  building  their  canoes.  The  party 
sent  ahead  for  this  purpose  arrived  only  two  days  before, 
and  had  made  no  progress  in  joining  the  timbers  they  had 
carried  along  with  them.  The  whole  tools  used  by  an 
Indian  in  this  operation,  in  making  snow-shoes  and  all  other 
kinds  of  wood-work,  are  a  hatchet,  a  knife,  a  file,  and  an 
awl ;  but  in  the  use  of  these  they  are  very  dexterous.  In 
shape,  their  canoes  bear  some  resemblance  to  a  weaver's 
shuttle,  having  fiat  bottoms,  with  straight  upright  sides,  and 
sharp  at  each  end.  The  stern  is  the  widest  part,  being 
constructed  for  the  reception  of  the  baggage  ;  and  occasion- 
ally it  admits  a  second  person,  who  lies  at  full  length  in 
the  bottom  of  the  little  vessel,  which  seldom  exceeds  twelve 
or  thirteen  feet  in  length,  and  about  twenty  inches  or  two 
feet  in  breadth  at  the  widest  part.  The  forepart  is  unneces- 
sarily long  and  narrow,  and  covered  with  birch-bark,  which 
adds  to  the  weight  without  contributing  to  the  burden  of 
the  canoe.    The  Indians,  for  the  most  part,  employ  a  single 

*  Heame's  Journey,  p.  93. 


^ 


JOINED   BY   MANY   INDIANS. 


113 


paddle  ;  double  ones,  like  those  of  the  Esquimaux,  are  sel- 
dom used  unless  by  hunters,  who  lie  in  ambush  for  the  pur- 
pose of  killing  deer  as  they  cross  rivers  and  narrow  lakes. 
Upon  the  whole,  their  vessels,  though  formed  of  the  same 
materials  as  those  of  the  Southern  Indians,  are  much  smaller 
and  lighter  ;  and,  from  the  extreme  simplicity  of  build,  axe 
the  best  that  could  be  contrived  for  the  necessities  of  these 
poor  savages,  who  are  frequently  obliged  to  carry  them  upon 
their  back  100  and  sometimes  150  miles,  without  having 
occasion  to  launch  them. 

At  Clowey  the  expedition  was  joined  by  nearly  200 
Indians  from  various  quarters,  most  of  whom  built  canoes 
there  ;  and  on  the  23d  May,  Mr.  Hearne  and  Matonabbee, 
whose  character  and  consequence  effectually  protected  the 
white  man  from  plunder,  proceeded  northward.  For  some 
time  they  met  with  no  distresses,  except  those  occasioned 
by  the  intense  cold,  which  had  been  preceded  by  thunder- 
storms and  torrents  of  rain.  Misfortune,  however,  now  at- 
tacked Matonabbee  on  the  tender  side  of  his  eight  wives, 
the  handsomest  of  whom  eloped  in  the  night,  accompanied 
by  another  woman.  Both  having  been  carried  off  by  force, 
it  was  suspected  they  had  fled  to  the  eastward  with  the  plan 
of  rejoining  their  former  husbands.  Scarce  had  the  savage 
polygamist  recovered  from  this  blow,  when  he  experienced 
a  fresh  mortification :  an  Indian  of  great  strength,  from 
whom  Matonabbee  a  short  time  before  had  purchased  a  stout, 
and  therefore  valuable,  wife,  insisted  on  taking  her  back, 
unless  he  instantly  surrendered  a  certain  quantity  of  ammuni- 
tion, a  kettle,  some  pieces  of  iron,  and  other  articles.  The 
hardship  of  this  case  arose  from  an  extraordinary  custom, 
by  which  the  men  are  permitted  to  wrestle  for  any  woman 
to  whom  they  are  attached,  the  victorious  party  carrying  off 
the  prize.  It  is  for  this  reason  that  the  greatest  emulation 
prevails  in  all  a'hletic  exercises  among  the  young  Indians  ; 
and  the  children  are  perpetually  seen  trying  their  powers  in 
wrestling,  under  the  idea  that  this  is  the  education  which  will 
chiefly  benefit  them  when  they  grow  up.  A  weak  man  sel- 
dom long  retains  a  wife  whose  services  another  wants  ;  for. 
when  the  helpmates  of  an  able-bodied  savage  are  too  heavily 
laden  with  furs  or  provisions,  he  makes  no  scruple  of  sei^iing 
the  spouse  of  his  weaker  neighbour,  and  transferring  part 
of  the  burden  to  her  back ;  while,  if  the  injured  party  can- 

iv  2 


;M 


f*      1 


114 


•  #  ^^ 


MATONABBEES    PRIDE. 


not  challenge  the  aggressor  to  a  wrestling-match,  he  must 
not  otherwise  complain.  The  distress,  therefore,  of  Maton- 
abbee  upon  this  occasion  may  be  easily  accounted  for,  as  he 
was  wounded  in  his  pride  and  in  his  property,  if  not  in  his 
affections.  But  a  personal  contest  was  out  of  the  question, 
and  he  was  obliged  to  purchase  his  favourite  over  again,  by 
yielding  up  all  that  was  demanded  by  his  antagonist.  This 
affair  had  nearly  proved  a  serious  obstacle  to  the  expedition ; 
for  so  bitterly  did  the  chief  resent  the  affront,  entertaining 
the  highest  ideas  of  his  personal  consequence,  that  he  had 
resolved,  like  a  Coriolanus  of  the  New  World,  to  renounce 
all  further  alliance  with  his  countrymen,  and  join  the  Atha- 
basca Indians,  among  whom  he  had  formerly  resided.  But 
Heame  strenuously  opposed  this  project,  and  at  last  suc- 
ceeded in  dissuading  him  from  it.* 

Having  agreed  to  proceed,  Matonabbee,  for  the  better 
prosecution  of  the  enterprise,  determined  to  make  some  new 
arrangements  :  he  selected  his  two  youngest  wives,  who 
were  unencumbered  with  children,  as  alone  worthy  to  ac- 
company him,  while  the  remainder,  with  all  their  luggage 
and  a  considerable  number  of  the  men,  were  commanded  to 
await  the  return  of  the  party  from  the  Coppermine  River. 
This  change  of  plan,  howeverj  was  not  carried  through 
without  difficulty.  When  the  hour  of  separation  came,  and 
Matonabbee  and  Hearne  set  out  in  the  evening  of  31st  May, 
a  low  murmur  of  lamentation  proceeded  from  the  tents  of 
the  women  who  were  left  behind,  which,  running  through 
all  the  notes  of  increasing  grief,  at  last  burst  into  a  loud 
yell.  This  continued  as  long  as  the  party  were  in  sight ; 
nor  was  it  without  much  angry  expostulation  that  some  of 
them  were  prevented  from  following  their  husbands.  The 
Indians,  however,  regarded  all  this,  which  deeply  affected 
their  European  associate,  with  indifference,  walking  forward 
without  Cft^Jting  behind  them  a  single  look  or  word  of  sym- 
pathy, and  joy  Ailly  congratulating  themselves  on  getting  rid 
of  the  women,  dogs,  children,  and  other  encumbrances, 
which  added  so  greatly  to  the  toil  of  the  journey.  One  ar- 
ticle they  all  carried,  although  to  Hearne  it  appeared  un- 
necessary, considering  the  expedition  to  be  pacific, — this  was 
a  target  of  thin  boards  two  feet  broad  and  about  three  feet 


*  Hearne's  Journey,  p.  Ill,  112. 


'*t 


i^ 


COPPER   INDIANS. 


115 


le  must 
Maton- 
r,  as  he 
>t  in  his 
iiestioii) 
;ain,  by 
.  This 
3dition ; 
rtaining 
he  had 
snounce 
le  Atha- 
(1.  But 
ast  suc- 

e  better 
>me  new 
res,  who 
ly  to  ac- 
luggage 
anded  to 
e  River, 
through 
ime,  and 
1st  May, 
ents  of 
irough 
a  loud 
sight ; 
some  of 
The 
affected 
brward 
of  sym- 
tting  rid 
brances, 
3ne  ar- 
red  un- 
this  was 
ree  feet 


,; 


long.  On  inquiring  for  what  purpose  these  shields  were  to 
be  used,  he  discovered  that  the  main  consideration  which 
reconciled  the  Indians  to  this  expedition  was  the  hope  of 
attacking  and  murdering  the  Esquimaux  who  frequented  the 
Coppermine  River,  between  whom  and  the  other  Indian 
tribes  there  had  long  existed  a  deadly  enmity.  All  the  argu- 
ments employed  by  Hearne  were  insufficient  to  dissuade 
them  from  these  hostile  intentions. 

The  party,  having  crossed  the  arctic  circle,  arrived  at  Co- 
gead  Lake,  which  they  found  frozen  over  ;  so  that  they 
traversed  its  creeks  and  bays  without  the  aid  of  their  canoes. 
Thence  they  directed  their  course  due  north  till  they  met 
with  a  branch  of  the  Congecathawhachaga  River,  where 
some  Copper  Indians  received  them  with  great  kindness, 
and  readily  sent  all  their  canoes  to  their  assistance, — a 
piece  of  courtesy  particularly  seasonable,  as  the  ice  had 
now  broken  up.  To  these  Indians  Hearne  explained  the 
object  of  his  journey,  and  his  guide  being  personally 
known  to  them,  they  treated  the  party,  which  consisted  of 
150  persons,  with  distinguished  honour ;  a  feast  was  given, 
the  English  traveller  smoked  with  them  his  calumet  of 
peace,  and  their  chiefs  expressed  the  greatest  anxiety  that 
a  European  settlement  should  be  established  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Coppermine  River.  They  acknowledged 
they  had  never  found  the  sea  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  ^ee 
from  ice  ;  but  with  singular  simplicity  seemed  to  consider 
this  a  very  trifling  objection,  observing,  that  the  water  was 
always  so  smooth  between  the  ice  and  the  shore,  that  even 
small  boats  could  sail  there  with  great  ease ;  and  inferring 
that  what  a  canoe  could  do  a  large  ship  must  be  sure  to  ac- 
complish. As  Hearne  was  the  first  white  man  they  had 
seen,  he  was  surrounded  by  numbers,  who  examined  him 
with  the  utmost  minuteness.  The  result,  however,  was 
satisfactory ;  for  they  at  last  pronounced  him  to  be  a  perfect 
human  being,  except  in  the  colour  of  his  hair  and  eyes : 
the  first  they  insisted  was  like  the  stained  hair  of  a  buffaloes 
tail,  and  the  last,  being  lioht,  were  compared  to  those  of  a 
gull.  The  whiteness  of  his  skin  also  was  a  circumstance 
on  which  they  demurred  a  little,  observing,  that  it  looked 
like  meat  which  had  been  sodden  in  water  till  all  the  blood 
was  extracted.  He  continued,  however,  to  be  viewed  with 
a  mixture  of  curiosity  and  admiration,  and  at  his  toilet  was 


I 


116 


VARIATIONS   IN  THE    CLIMATE. 


I:    ? 


generally  attended  by  a  body  of  the  Indians,  who,  Tvhen  he 
used  his  comb,  asked  for  the  hairs  which  came  off.  These 
they  carefully  wrapped  up,  saying,  "  When  I  see  you  again, 
you  shall  affain  see  your  hair."* 

On  reaching  Congecathawhachaga  in  latitude  68°  46' 
north,  Matonabbee  deemed  it  expedient  to  leave  all  the 
women,  taking  the  precaution  to  kill  as  many  deer  as  were 
necessary  for  their  support  during  his  absence.  The  flesh 
was  cut  into  thin  slices  and  dried  in  the  sun, — a  frequent 
mode  of  preserving  it  in  these  high  northern  latitudes,  by 
which  it  is  kept  palatable  and  nourishing  for  a  twelve- 
month. Having  completed  these  arrangements,  the  party 
resumed  their  journey  on  the  1st  of  July,  proceeding  amid 
dreadful  storms  of  snow  and  occasional  torrents  of  rain, 
which  drenched  them  to  the  skin,  through  a  barren  and 
desolate  country,  where  it  was  impossible  with  the  wet 
moss  and  green  brushwood  to  kindle  a  fire.  Compelled  to 
take  shelter  in  caves  at  night, — for  they  had  no  tents, — 
obliged  to  eat  their  meat  raw,  with  the  enjoyment  of  no 
higher  luxury  than  a  pipe,  they  yet  pushed  forward  with 
unshaken  perseverance,  and  after  a  week  of  great  suffering 
had  the  comfort  to  observe  a  complete  change  in  the  weather, 
which  first  became  moderate,  and  soon  after  so  sultry  that 
it  was  sometimes  impossible  to  move  at  all. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  13th  July,  the  expedition  crossed 
a  long  chain  of  hills,  from  the  top  of  which  they  discerned 
a  branch  that  joins  the  Coppermme  about  forty  miles  from 
its .  influx  into  the  sea.  Here  the  Indians  killed  a  few  fine 
buck-deer,  procured  some  excellent  firewood,  and,  as  it  was 
not  certain  that  so  favourable  an  opportunity  would  soon 
occur  again,  they  sat  down  with  appetites  sharpened  by 
long  privation,  spirits  raised  by  the  recollection  of  hardships 
overcome,  and  the  almost  certain  prospect  of  ere  long  ac- 
complishing the  great  object  of  their  expedition,  to  the 
most  cheerful  and  comfortable  meal  they  had  enjoyed  for  a 
long  period.  The  reader  will  be  amused  with  Hearne's 
description  of  this  delicious  repast,  and  of  the  mysteries  of 
Indian  cookery.  "  As  such  favourable  opportunities  of  in- 
dulging the  appetite,"  says  he,  *•  happen  but  seldom,  it  is  a 
general  rule  with  the  Indians,  which  we  did  not  neglect,  'j 

*  Hearne's  Journey,  p.  123. 


THE    COPPERMINE   RIVER. 


117 


en  he 
rhese 

JO  46' 
ill  the 
I  were 
i  flesh 
equent 
les,  by 
welve- 
3  party 
7  amid 
»f  rain, 
en  and 
he  Viet 
elled  to 
ents, — 
t  of  no 
rd  with 
affering 
ireather, 
ry  that 

crossed 
seemed 
es  from 
'ew  fine 
|s  it  was 
lid  soon 
sned  by 
irdships 
long  ac- 
to  the 
d  for  a 
earne's 
sries  of 
of  in- 
1,  it  is  a 
■kct,  'J 


exert  every  art  in  dressing  their  food  which  the  most  refined 
skill  in  Indian  cooking  has  been  able  to  invent,  and  which 
consists  chiefly  in  boiling,  broiling,  and  roasting ;  but  of  all 
the  dishes  cooked  by  these  people,  a  becatee,  as  it  is  called 
in  their  language,  is  certainly  the  most  delicious  (at  least 
for  a  change)  which  can  be  prepared  from  a  deer  only  with- 
out any  other  ingredient.  It  is  a  kind  of  Scotch  *  haggis^ 
made  with  the  blood,  a  good  quantity  of  fat  shred  small, 
some  of  the  tenderest  of  the  flesh,  together  with  the  heart 
and  lungs,  cut  or  more  commonly  torn  into  small  shivers, — 
all  which  is  put  into  the  stomach  and  roasted,  by  being  sus- 
pended over  the  fire  by  a  string.  Care  must  be  taken  that 
It  does  not  get  too  much  heat  at  first,  as  the  bag  would 
thereby  be  liable  to  be  burnt  and  the  contents  let  out. 
When  it  is  sufliciently  done  it  will  emit  a  rich  steam,  in  the 
same  manner  as  a  fowl  or  a  joint  of  meat,  which  is  as 
much  as  to  say, '  Come  eat  me  now  !'  and  if  it  be  taken  in 
time,  before  the  blood  or  the  contents  are  too  much  done,  it 
is  certainly  a  most  delicious  morsel,  even  without  pepper, 
salt,  or  any  other  seasoning."* 

Having  regaled  themselves  in  this  sumptuous  manner, 
and  taken  a  few  hours'  rest,  they  once  more  set  out,  and 
after  a  walk  of  nine  or  ten  miles,  at  last  arrived  at  the  Cop- 
permine. Scarcely  had  Hearne  congratulated  himself  on 
reaching  the  great  object  of  his  mission,  unpacked  his  sur- 
veying instruments,  and  prepared  to  follow  its  progress  to 
the  great  Arctic  Ocean,  when  one  of  those  dark  and  terri- 
ble scenes  occurred  which  are  so  strikingly  characteristic 
of  savage  life.  As  soon  as  Matonabbee  and  his  party 
gained  the  banks  of  the  river,  three  spies  were  sent  out  to 
discover  whether  any  Esquimaux  were  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. After  a  short  absence  they  returned  with  intelli- 
gence that  they  had  seen  five  tents,  about  twelve  miles  dis- 
tant on  the  west  side  of  the  river.  All  was  no\v  warlike 
preparation ;  the  guns,  knives,  and  spears  were  carefully 
examined;  and  as  they  learned  that  the  nature  of  the 
ground  would  render  it  easy  to  advance  unperceived,  it  was 
determined  to  steal  upon  their  victims  in  this  manner,  and 
put  them  to  death.  This  plan  was  executed  with  the  most 
savage  exactness ;  and  nothing  could  present  a  more  dread- 

*  Hearne's  Journey,  p.  144. 


I  ■ 


1 1 


\\ 


^^1    i 


118 


V 


ATTACK   ON   THE   ESQUIMAUX. 


All  view  of  human  nature  in  its  unenlightened  state  thon 
the  perfect  unanimity  of  purpose  which  pervaded  the  wholo 
body  of  Indians  upon  this  horrid  occasion,  although  at 
other  times  they  were  in  no  respect  amenable  to  discipline. 

Each  man  first  painted  his  target,  some  with  a  represent- 
ation of  the  sun,  others  of  the  moon,  and  several  with  the 
pictures  of  beasts  and  birds  of  prey,  or  of  imaginary  be- 
ings, which  they  affirmed  to  be  the  inhabitants  of  the  ele- 
ments upon  whose  assistance  they  relied  for  success  in 
their  enterprise.  They  then  moved  with  the  utmost  stealth 
in  the  direction  of  the  tents,  taking  care  not  to  cross  any 
of  the  hills  which  concealed  their  approach.  It  was  a 
miserable  circumstance  that  these  poor  creatures  had  taken 
up  their  abode  in  such  ground  that  their  enemies,  without 
being  observed,  formed  an  ambuscade  not  200  yards*  dis- 
tant, and  lay  for  some  time  watching  the  motions  of  the 
Esquimaux,  as  if  marking  their  victims.  Here  the  last 
preparations  for  the  attack  were  made  :  the  Indians  tied  up 
their  long  black  hair  in  a  knot  behind,  lest  it  should  be 
blown  in  their  eyes ;  painted  their  faces  black  and  red, 
which  gave  them  a  hideous  aspect ;  deliberately  tucked  up 
the  sleeves  of  their  jackets  close  under  the  armpits,  and 
pulled  off  their  stockings  ;  while  some,  still  more  eager  to 
render  themselves  light  for  running,  threw  off  their  jackets, 
and  stood  with  their  weapons  in  their  hands  quite  naked, 
except  their  breech-clothes  and  shoes.  By  the  time  all 
■were  ready  it  was  near  one  o'clock  in  the  morning  ;  when, 
finding  the  Esquimaux  quiet,  they  rushed  from  their  con- 
cealment. In  an  instant,  roused  by  the  shouts  of  the 
savages,  the  unfortunate  wretches,  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren, ran  naked  out  of  the  tents,  and  attempted  to  escape  ; 
but  the  Indians  had  surrounded  them  on  the  land  side,  and 
as  none  dared  to  leap  into  the  river,  all  were  murdered  in 
cold  blood ;  while  Heame,  whom  a  regard  for  his  personal 
safety  had  compelled  to  accompany  the  party,  stood  a  short 
way  off  rooted  to  the  ground  in  horror  and  agony. 

"  The  shrieks  and  groans  of  the  poor  expiring  wretches," 
says  he,  in  his  striking  account  of  this  dreadful  episode  in 
savage  life,  "were  truly  distressing;  and  my  horror  was 
much  increased  at  seeing  a  young  girl,  about  eighteen  years 
of  age,  killed  so  near  me  that  when  the  first  spear  was 
^truck  into  her  side  she  fell  down  at  my  feet  and  twisted 


4 


DREADFUL    MASSACRE. 


119 


jte  than 
he  whole 
lough  at 
iscipUne. 
epresent- 
with  the 
inary  be- 
f  the  ele- 
uccess  in 
>st  stealth 
cross  any 
It  was  a 
had  taken 
s,  without 
yards'  dis- 
3ns  of  the 
e  the  last 
ins  tied  up 
should  be 
Ic  and  red, 
tucked  up 
•inpits,  and 
ire  eager  to 
sir  jackets, 
ite  naked, 
le  time  all 
,g  ;  when, 
their  con- 
jts  of  the 
I,  and  chil- 
to  escape ; 
1  side,  and 
[urdered  in 
is  personal 
lod  a  short 

wretches," 

[episode  in 

lorror  was 

^teen  years 

spear  was 

id  twisted 


round  my  legs,  so  that  it  was  with  difficulty  that  T  '*ouId 
disengage  myself  from  her  dying  grasps.  As  twp  L  .an 
men  pursued  this  unfortunate  victim,  I  solicited  very  hard 
for  her  life ;  but  the  murderers  made  no  reply  till  they  had 
stuck  both  their  spears  through  her  body  and  transfixed  her 
to  the  ground.  They  then  looked  me  sternly  in  the  face, 
and  began  to  ridicule  me  by  asking  if  I  wanted  an  Esqui- 
maux wife,  while  they  paid  not  the  smallest  regard  to  the 
shrieks  and  agony  of  the  poor  wretch,  who  was  turning 
round  their  spears  like  an  eel.  Indeed,  after  receiving 
from  them  much  abusive  language  on  the  occasion,  I  was 
at  length  obliged  to  desire  that  they  would  be  more  expe- 
ditious in  despatching  their  victim  out  of  her  misery,  other- 
wise I  should  be  obliged  out  of  pity  to  assist  in  the  friendly 
office  of  putting  an  end  to  the  existence  of  a  fellow-crea- 
ture who  was  so  cruelly  wounded.  On  this  request  being 
made,  one  of  the  Indians  hastily  drew  his  spear  from  the 
place  where  it  was  first  lodged,  and  pierced  it  through  her 
breast  near  the  heart.  The  love  of  life,  however,  even  in 
this  most  miserable  state,  was  so  predominant,  that  though 
this  might  be  justly  called  the  most  merciful  act  which 
could  be  done  for  the  poor  creature,  it  seemed  to  be  unwel- 
come ;  for,  though  much  exhausted  by  pain  and  loss  of 
blood,  she  made  several  efforts  to  ward  off  the  friendly 
blow.  My  situation  and  the  terror  of  my  mind  at  behold- 
ing this  butchery  cannot  easily  be  conceived,  much  less  de- 
scribed :  though  I  summoned  up  all  the  fortitude  I  was  mas- 
ter of  on  the  occasion,  it  was  with  difficulty  that  I  could  re- 
firain  from  tears  ;  and  I  am  confident  that  my  features  must 
have  feelingly  expressed  how  sincerely  I  was  affected  at  the 
barbarous  scene  I  then  witnessed.  Even  at  this  hour  I 
cannot  reflect  on  thp  transactions  of  that  horrid  day  without 
shedding  tears."* 

After  making  an  accurate  survey  of  the  rive.'  till  its 
junction  with  the  sea,  Hearne  proceeded  to  one  of  the  cop- 
per-mines, which  he  found  scarcely  to  deserve  the  name,  it 
being  nothing  more  than  a  chaotic  mass  of  rocks  and 
gravel,  rent  by  an  earthquake,  or  some  other  convulsion, 
into  numerous  fissures,  through  one  of  which  flowed  a  small 
river.    Although  the  Indians  had  talked  in  magnificent 

*  Hearne's  Journey,  p.  154^ 


n 


.1 


-VT 


120 


ATHABASCA   LAKE. 


I 


I 


t 


tenns  of  this  mine,  after  a  search  of  four  hours  a  solitary 
piece  o(  ore  was  all  that  could  be  discovered ;  and  instead 
jf  pointing  out  the  hills  entirely  composed  of  copper,  and 
the  quantities  of  rich  ore  with  which  they  had  affirmed  it 
would  he  easy  to  freight  a  large  vessel,  they  now  told  a 
ridiculous  story  of  some  insults  offered  to  the  goddess  of 
the  mine,  who  in  revenge  declared  that  she  would  sit  upon 
it  till  -she  and  it  sunk  together  into  the  earth.  In  conse- 
quence of  this  threat,  they  next  year  found  her  sunk  up  to 
the  waist,  and  the  quantity  of  copper  much  decreased, 
while  the  following  summer  she  had  entirely  disappeared, 
and  the  whole  mine  along  with  her. 

In  reaching  the  sea,  Hearne  had  accomplished  the  great 
object  of  his  journey,  and  his  homeward  route  did  not  vary 
materially  from  his  course  to  the  Arctic  Ocean.  On  31  st 
July,  they  arrived  at  the  place  where  the  Indians  had  left 
their  families,  and  on  9th  August  resumed  their  '^-oursa  to 
the  south-west ;  travelling  with  frequent  intervnla  of  rest 
till,  on  24th  November,  they  reached  the  northern  shore  of 
the  great  Athabasca  Lake.  In  this  latitude,  at  this  season, 
the  sun's  course  formed  an  extremely  small  segment  of  a 
circle  above  the  horizon,  scarcely  rising  half-way  up  the 
trees ;  but  the  brilliancy  of  the  stars,  and  the  vivid  and 
beautiful  light  emitted  by  the  aurora  borealis,  even  without 
the  aid  of  the  moon,  amply  compens  ted  for  the  want  of 
the  sun,  so  that  at  midnight  Hearne  c<L>aId  see  to  read  very 
small  print.  In  the  deep  stillness  of  the  night,  also,  these 
northern  meteors  were  distinctly  heard  to  make  a  rushing 
and  crackling  noise,  like  the  waving  of  a  large  f!ag  in  a 
fresh  gale  of  wind.*  According  to  the  information  of  the 
natives,  the  Athabasca  Lake  is  nearly  120  leagues  long 
from  east  to  west,  and  twenty  wide  from  north  to  south. 
It  was  beautifully  studded  with  islands,  covered  with  tall 
poplars,  birch,  and  pines,  which  were  plentifully  stocked 
with  deer,  and  abounded  with  pike,  trout,  and  barbel,  be- 
sides the  species  known  by  the  Indians  under  the  names  of 
tittameg,  methy,  and  shees. 

The  country  through  which  they  had  hitherto  travelled 
had  been  extremely  barren  and  hilly,  covered  with  stunted 
firs  and  dwarf  willows  ;  but  it  now  subsided  into  a  fine 


*  Ilearne'a  Journey,  p.  224. 


STORY   OF   AN   INDUN   WOMAN. 


121 


rs  a  solitary 
and  instead 
copper,  and 
1  affirmed  it 
r  now  told  a 
J  goddess  of 
ould  sit  upon 
1.  In  conse- 
ir  sunk  up  to 
h  decreased, 
disappeared, 

led  the  great 
,  did  not  vary 
an.     On  3 1st 
dians  had  left 
eir  '^-oursa  to 
ervfila  of  rest 
hern  shore  of 
it  this  season, 
segment  of  a 
f-way  up  the 
the  vivid  and 
,  even  without 
'  the  want  of 
e  to  read  very 
ht,  also,  these 
ike  a  rushing 
irge  flag  in  a 
ation  of  the 
leagues  long 
[orth  to  south, 
ered  with  tall 
ifuUy  stocked 
id  barhel,  be- 
the  names  of 

jerto  travelled 

with  stunted 

id  into  a  fine 


plain,  occasionally  varied  with  tall  woods,  and  well  stocked 
with  buflalo  and  moose-deer.  The  party  spent  some  days  with 
much  pleasure  in  hunting  ;  and  as  the  flesh  of  the  younger 
buffaloes  was  delicious,  their  exhausted  stock  of  provisions 
was  seasonably  supplied.  In  one  of  their  excursions  an 
incident  occurred  strikingly  characteristic  of  savage  life. 
The  Indians  came  suddenly  on  the  track  of  a  strange 
snow-shoe,  and  following  it  to  a  wild  part  of  the  country, 
remote  from  any  human  habitation,  they  discovered  a  hut, 
in  which  a  young  Indian  woman  was  sitting  alone.  She 
had  lived  for  the  last  eight  moons  in  absolute  solitude,  and 
recounted  with  alfccting  simplicity  the  circumstances  by 
which  she  had  been  driven  from  her  own  people.  She  be- 
longed, she  said,  to  the  tribe  of  the  Dog-ribbed  Indians, 
and  in  an  inroad  of  the  Athabasca  nation,  in  the  summer 
of  1 770,  had  been  taken  prisoner.  The  savages,  according 
to  their  invariable  practice,  stole  upon  the  tents  in  the 
night,  and  murdered  before  her  face  her  father,  mother,  and 
husband,  while  she  and  three  other  young  women  were  re- 
served from  the  slaughter,  and  made  captive.  Her  child, 
four  or  five  months  old,  she  contrived  to  carry  with  her, 
concealed  among  some  clothing ;  but  on  arriving  at  the 
place  where  the  party  had  left  their  wives,  her  precious 
bundle  was  examined  by  the  Athabasca  women,  one  of 
whom  tore  the  infant  from  its  mother,  and  killed  it  on  the 
spot.  In  Europe,  an  act  so  inhuman  would,  in  all  proba- 
bility, have  been  instantly  followed  by  the  insanity  of  the 
parent ;  but  in  North  America,  though  maternal  affection 
is  equally  intense,  the  nerves  are  more  sternly  strung.  So 
horrid  a  cruelty,  however,  determined  her,  though  the  man 
whose  property  she  had  become  was  kind  and  careful  of 
her,  to  take  the  first  opportunity  of  escaping,  with  the  in- 
tention of  returning  to  her  own  nation ;  but  the  great  dis- 
tance, and  the  numerous  winding  rivers  and  creeks  she  had 
to  pass,  caused  her  to  lose  the  way,  and  winter  coming  on, 
she  had  built  a  hut  in  this  secluded  spot.  When  discovered, 
she  was  in  good  health,  well  fed,  and  in  the  opinion  of 
Hearne  one  of  the  finest  Indian  women  he  had  ever  seen* 
Five  or  six  inches  of  hoop  made  into  a  knife,  and  the  iron 
shank  of  an  arrow-head  which  served  as  an  awl,  were  the 
only  implements  she  possessed  ;  and  with  these  she  made 
enow-shoes  and  other  useful  articles.    For  subsistence  she 


V 

■I, 


^  m 


I ' 


u 


\ 

1 

i'  % 

\   'm 

^     1 

f>  \m 

t      m 

) 

i 

■r.  . 

m 

r 

1 

1 

1 


\ 


'^. 


t 


n 


M 


■I": 


N. 


•   \  }) 

r  '.* 

1  /I* 

.. 

f 

1  / 

;■  i( 

ir>  #• 

'  *« '■  ■ 

"     '|i 

» 

122         RETURN  TO  PRINCE  OF  WALES*  FORT. 

snared  partridf^es,  rabbits,  and  squirrels,  and  had  itilled  two 
or  three  beavers  and  some  porcupines.  After  the  few  deer- 
sinews  she  had  brought  with  her  were  expended  in  making 
snares  and  sewing  her  clothing,  she  supplied  their  place 
with  the  sinews  of  rabbits*  legs,  which  she  twisted  together 
with  great  dexterity.  Thus  occupied,  she  not  only  became 
reconciled  to  her  desolate  situation,  but  had  found  time  to 
amuse  herself  by  manufacturing  little  pieces  of  personal 
ornament.  Her  clothing  was  formed  of  rabbit-skins  sewed 
together ;  the  materials,  though  rude,  being  tastefully  dis- 
posed, so  as  to  make  her  garb  assume  a  pleasing  though 
desert-bred  appearance.  The  singular  circumstances  under 
which  she  was  found,  her  beauty  and  useful  accomplish- 
ments, occasioned  a  contest  among  the  Indians,  as  to  who 
should  have  her  for  a  wife ;  and  the  matter  being  decided, 
she  accompanied  them  in  their  journey.  On  Ist  March, 
they  left  the  level  country  of  the  Athabascas,  and  approached 
the  stony  hills  bounding  the  territories  of  the  Northern 
Indians,  traversing  which  they  arrived  in  safety  at  Prince 
of  Wales'  Fort  on  the  29th  of  June,  1772,  having  been  ab- 
sent eighteen  months  and  twenty-three  days. 

The  journey  of  Hearne  must  be  regarded  as  forming  an 
important  era  in  the  geography  of  America.  For  some 
time  it  had  been  supposed  that  this  vast  continent  extended 
in  an  almost  unbroken  mass  towards  the  Pole  ;  and  we  find 
it  thus  depicted  in  the  maps  of  that  period.  The  circum- 
stance of  Hearne  having  reached  the  shore  of  the  great 
Arctic  Ocean  at  once  demonstrated  the  fallacy  of  all  such 
ideas.  It  threw  a  new  and  clear  light  upon  the  structure 
of  this  portion  of  the  globe,  and  resting  upon  the  results 
thus  distinctly  ascertained,  the  human  mind,  indefatigable  in 
the  pursuit  of  knowledge,  started  forward  in  a  career  of 
still  more  enlarged  and  interesting  discovery.* 

While  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  by  the  mission  of 
Mr.  Hearne,  vindicated  their  character  from  the  charge  of  in- 
difference to  the  cause  of  geographical  discovery,  another 
institution  had  arisen,  under  the  title  of  the  North-west 
Fur  Company,  which,  though  it  did  not  rest  on  a  royal  char- 
ter, and  had  experienced  in  its  earliest  exertions  many  severe 
reverses,  at  last  arrived,  by  the  intelligence  and  perseverance 

*  Murray's  Discoveries  and  Travels  in  North  America,  vol.  ii.  p.  14d, 


1 


SIR    ALEXANDER    MACKENZIE. 


123 


killed  two 
B  few  deer- 

in  making 
their  place 
ed  together 
nly  became 
nd  time  to 
of  personal 
kins  sewed 
jtefully  dis- 
ing  though 
inces  under 
accompliah- 
;,  as  to  who 
ng  decided, 
lat  March, 

approached 
e  Northern 
y  at  Prince 
ng  been  ab- 

forming  an 
For  some 

n^  extended 

and  we  find 
he  circum- 

f  the  great 
of  all  such 

,e  structure 
the  results 
fatigable  in 

la  career  of 

mission  of 
large  of  in- 
[•y,  another 
Torth-west 
[royal  char- 
lany  severer 
trseverance 

si.  ii.  p.  149. 


*f  its  partners  and  servants,  at  a  degree  of  prosperity  which 
surpassed  th»'  chartered  companies  of  France  and  England. 
In  the  counting-house  of  Mr.  Gregory,  a  partner  of  this 
company,  was  bred  a  native  of  Inverness,  named  Alexander 
Mackenzie.  In  conducting  the  practical  details  of  the  fur- 
trade,  he  hi>  1  been  settled  at  an  early  period  of  life  in  the 
country  to  the  north-west  of  Lake  Superior,  and  became 
animated  with  the  ambition  of  penetrating  across  the  con- 
tinent :  for  this  undertaking  he  was  eminently  qualified, 
possessing  an  inquisitive  and  enterprising  mind,  with  a  strong 
frame  of  budy,  and  combining  the  fervid  and  excursive  genius 
which  has  been  said  to  characterize  the  Scots  in  general, 
with  that  more  cautious  and  enduring  temperament  which 
belongs  to  the  northern  Highlander. 

On  3d  June,  1789,  Mackenzie  set  out  from  Fort  Chepe- 
wyan,  at  the  head  of  the  Athabasca  Laike,  a  station  nearly 
central  between  Hudson's  Bay  and  the  Tucific.  He  had 
resided  here  for  eight  years,  and  was  familiar  with  the  diffi- 
culties of  the  journey  as  well  as  aware  of  the  most  likely 
methods  of  surmounting  them.  He  took  with  him  four 
canoes.  In  the  first  he  embarked  with  a  German  and  four 
Canadians,  tv  >  of  the  latter  being  accompanied  by  their 
wives.  A  Northern  Indian,  called  the  English  Chief,  who 
had  been  a  follower  of  Matonabbee,  the  guide  of  Mr.  Hearne» 
occupied  the  second  with  his  two  wives.  The  third  was 
paddled  by  two  stout  young  Indians,  who  acted  in  the  double 
capacity  of  hunters  and  interpreters  ;  while  the  fourth  was 
laden  with  provisions,  clothing,  ammunition,  and  various 
articles  intended  as  presents  for  the  Indians.  This  last 
canoe  was  committed  to  the  charge  of  Mi  Le  Roux,  one  of 
the  company's  clerks. 

On  4th  June,  the  party  reached  the  Slave  River,  which 
connects  the  Athabasca  and  Slave  Lakes,  in  a  course  of 
about  one  hundred  and  seventy  miles  ;  and  on  the  9th  of  the 
same  month  they  arrived  at  the  Slave  Lake,  without  ex- 
periencing any  other  mconvenienccs  than  those  arising  from 
the  attacks  of  the  mosquitoes  during  the  heat  of  the  day, 
and  the  extreme  cold  in  the  morning  and  evening.  In  the 
river  wers  frequent  rapids,  which  obliged  them  to  land  and 
transport  their  canoes  and  luggai^e  over  the  carrying-places, 
—a  toilsome  process,  but  attended  with  no  danger,  as  the 
path  had  been  cleared  by  the  Indians  trading  with  the  con^- 


•*« 


^  1! 


■■'   ll 


v^  ^ 


124 


RED    KNIFE    INDIANS. 


;i  ii 


n  ^ 


^ 


pany.     The  banks  were  covered  with  various  kinds  of  trees  ; 
but,  owing  to  its  inferior  level  and  its  rich  black  soil,  the 
western  side  was  more  thickly  wooded  than  the  other.     On 
the  eastern  bank,  composed  of  a  yellow  clay  mixed  with 
gravel,  the  trees  were  smaller,  but  in  full  leaf,  though  the 
ground  was  not  thawed  above  fourteen  inches  in  depth.    At 
a  little  distance  from  the  river  were  extensive  plains  fre- 
quented by  herds  of  buffaloes  ;    the  woods  bordering  its 
sides  were  tenanted  by  moose  and  rein-deer  ;  and  numerous 
colonies  of  beavers  built  their  habitations  on  the  small  streams 
which  fed  the  lake.     This  large  body  of  water  was  covered 
with  ice,  which  had  not  given  way  except  in  a  small  strip 
round  the  shore,  where  the  depth,  nowhere  exceeding  three 
feet,  was  scarcely  sufficient  to  float  the  canoes.     Though 
now  the  9th  of  June,  there  was  every  appearance  that  the 
ice  would  detain  the  expedition  for  a  considerable  time  ;  and 
it  was  thought  necessary  to  pitch  their  tents.     The  nets 
were  now  set ;  Ihe  Indians  went  off  in  different  directions 
to  hunt ;  the  women  gathered  berries  of  various  sorts,  which 
abounded  in  the  neighbouring  woods  ;  and  their  larder  was 
soon  supplied  with  plenty  of  geese,  ducks,  and  beaver,  ex- 
cellent trout,  carp,  and  white-fish,  and  some  dozens  of  swan 
and  duck  eggs,  which  were  picked  up  on  an  adjacent  island. 
Their  stay,  therefore,  was  far  from  unpleasant,  combining 
the  novelty  of  a  residence  in  a  strange  country  with  the  ex- 
citation and  variety  of  a  hunter's  life  ;  and  on  the  15th, 
after  a  rest  of  six  days,  as  the  ice  had  given  way  a  little, 
they  resumed  their  journey. 

Since  leaving  Athabasca,  the  twilight  had  been  so  bright, 
owing  to  the  short  disappearance  of  the  sun  below  the 
horizon,  that  even  at  midnight  not  a  star  was  to  be  seen  ; 
but  as  they  glided  along  the  lake  they  were  greeted  by  the 
moon,  which  rose  beautifully  above  the  woods,  with  her 
lower  horn  in  a  state  of  eclipse.  The  obscuration  continued 
for  about  six  minutes  in  a  cloudless  sky.*  Coasting  along 
the  shore,  they  came  to  a  lodge  of  Red  Knife  Indians,  so 
denominated  from  their  using  copper  knives.  One  of  these 
men  engaged  to  conduct  them  to  the  mouth  of  the  river 
which  was  the  object  of  their  search ;  but  such  were  the 
impediments  encountered  from  drift-ice,  contrary  winds,  and 

,-.-'1'' 
*  Mackenzie's  Travels,  p.  II.  ^  ' 


4  i>: 


.'* 


J  J 

V 


3?. 


SLAVE   AND   DOG-RIBBED   INDIANS. 


123 


3s  of  trees ; 
;k  soil,  the 
other.  On 
mixed  with 
though  the 
I  depth.    At 

plains  fre- 
ordering  its 
d  numerous 
naall  streams 
was  covered 
L  small  strip 
jeding  three 
s.     Though 
nee  that  the 
le  time ;  and 
.     The  nets 
nt  directions 

sorts,  which 
ir  larder  was 
1  beaver,  ex- 
>zensofswan 
jacent  island. 
It,  combining 

with  the  ex- 
m  the  I5th, 

way  a  little, 

'en  so  bright, 
n  below  the 
_  to  be  seen  ; 
reeted  by  the 
ds,  with  her 
,on  continued 
lasting  along 
Indians,  so 
One  of  these 
of  the  river 
ch  were  the 
winds,  and 


the  ignorance  of  the  guide,  whom  the  English  Chief 
threatened  to  murder  for  engaging  in  a  service  for  which  he 
was  unfit,  that  it  was  the  29th  of  the  month  before  they  em- 
barked upon  the  river  since  known  by  the  name  of  the 
traveller  who  now  first  ascended  it.  On  leaving  the  lake, 
the  Mackenzie  River  was  found  to  run  to  the  westward, 
becoming  gradually  narrower  for  twenty-four  mile^,  till  it 
diminished  into  a  stream  not  more  than  half  a  mile  wide, 
with  a  strong  current,  and  a  depth  of  three  and  a  half 
fathoms.  A  stiff  breeze  from  the  eastward  now  drove  them 
on  at  a  great  rate,  and  after  a  rapid  run  of  ten  miles,  the 
channel  gradually  widened  till  it  assumed  the  appearance 
of  a  small  lake,  which  proved  to  be  the  utmost  limit  known 
to  their  guide.  They  now  came  in  sight  of  the  chain  of 
the  Horn  Mountains,  bearing  north-west,  and  had  some 
difficulty  in  recovering  the  channel  of  the  river. 

Having  resumed  their  course  on  1st  July,  they  met  with 
no  interruption  for  five  days,  when  they  observed  several 
smokes  on  the  northern  bank.  On  landing  they  discovered 
an  encampment  of  five  families  of  Slave  and  Dog-ribbed 
Indians,  who  on  the  first  appearance  of  the  party  fled  into 
the  woods  in  consternation.  The  entreaties  of  the  English 
Chief,  whose  language  they  understood,  at  length  dissipated 
their  apprehensions  ;  and  the  distribution  of  a  few  beads, 
rings,  and  knives,  with  a  supply  of  grog,  reconciled  them 
entirely  to  the  strangers.  Their  account  of  the  difficulties 
in  the  farther  navigation  of  the  river  was  not  a  little  ap- 
palling :  they  asserted  that  it  would  require  several  winters 
to  reach  the  sea,  and  that  old  age  would  inevitably  overtake 
the  party  before  their  return.  Monsters  of  horrid  shapes 
and  malignant  disposition  were  represented  as  having  their 
abodes  in  the  rocky  caves  on  the  banks,  ready  to  devouf  the 
presumptuous  traveller  who  approached  ;  and  the  oiore  sub- 
stantial impediment  of  two  impassable  falls  was  said  to 
exist  about  thirty  days*  march  from  where  they  then  were. 

Though  such  tales  were  treated  with  contempt  by  Mac- 
kenzie, the  Indians,  already  tired  of  the  voyage,  drank  them 
in  with  willing  ears,  and  they  could  scarcely  be  persuaded 
to  pursue  their  journey.  On  consenting  to  proceed,  one  of 
the  Dog-ribbed  Indians  was  induced,  by  the  present  of  a 
kettle,  an  axe,  and  some  other  articles,  to  accompany  them 
as  a  .guide  ;  but  when  the  time  of  embarkation  arrived,  his 

8 


ll 


r* 


# 


S  ) 


! 


136 


SLAVE  AND  DOO-RIBBED  INDIANS. 


P 


'       '1 


love  of  home  came  upon  him  with  such  violence  that  he 
used  every  artifice  to  escape  from  his  agreement,  and  at 
last  was  actually  forced  on  board.  Previous  to  his  depart* 
ure,  a  singular  ceremony  took  place  :  with  great  solemnity 
he  cut  off  a  lock  of  his  hair,  and  dividing  it  into  three  partsy 
fastened  one  to  the  upper  part  of  his  wife's  head,  blowing  on 
it  thrice  with  the  utmost  violence,  and  uttering  certain 
words  as  a  charm.  The  other  two  locks  he  fixed  with  the 
same  ceremonies  to  the  heads  of  his  two  children.  These 
Indians  were  in  general  a  meager,  ugly,  and  ill-favoured  race, 
particularly  ill-made  in  the  legs.  Some  of  them  wore  their 
hair  very  long,  others  allowed  a  tress  to  fall  behind,  cutting 
the  rest  short  round  their  ears.  A  few  old  men  had  beards, 
while  the  young  and  middle-aged  appeared  to  have  pulled 
out  every  hair  on  their  chin.  Each  cheek  was  adorned  by 
two  double  lines  tattooed  from  the  ear  to  the  nose,  of  which 
the  gristle  was  perforated  so  as  to  admit  a  goose-quill  or  a 
small  piece  of  wood.  Their  clothing  consisted  of  dressed 
deer-skins.  For  winter  wear  these  were  prepared  with  the 
fur,  and  the  shirts  made  of  them  decorated  with  a  neat  em< 
broidery,  composed  of  porcupine-quills  and  the  hair  of  the 
moose-deer,  coloured  red,  black,  yellow,  or  white.  Their 
shirts  reached  to  the  mid-thigh,  while  their  upper  garments 
covered  the  whole  body,  having  a  fringe  round  the  bottom. 
Their  leggins,  which  were  embroidered  round  the  ankle  and 
sewed  to  their  shoes,  reached  to  mid-thigh.  The  dress  of 
the  women  was  nearly  the  same  as  that  of  the  men.  They 
wore  gorgets  of  horn  or  wood,  and  had  bracelets  of  the 
same  materials.  On  their  head  was  placed  a  fillet  or  ban- 
deau, formed  of  strips  of  leather,  embroidered  richly  with 
porcupine-quills,  and  stuck  round  with  bears'  claws  or  talons 
of  wild  fowl.  Their  belts  and  garters  were  neatly  con- 
structed of  the  sinews  of  wild  animals  and  porcupine-quills. 
From  these  belts  descended  a  long  fringe  composed  of  strings 
of  leather,  and  worked  round  with  hair  of  various  colours, 
and  their  mittens  hung  from  their  neck  in  a  position  con- 
▼enient  for  the  reception  of  their  hands.*  Their  arms  and 
weapons  for  the  chase  were  bows  and  arrows,  spears, 
daggers,  and  a  large  club  formed  of  the  rein-deer  horn, 
called  a  pogamagan.     The  bows  were  about  five  or  six  feei 


Mackenue's  Travels,  p.  36-37. 


■4 


■i   M 


-t? 


,U[ 


AMCmCAN   MUSIC. 


127 


ice  that  he 
«nt,  and  at 

0  his  depart- 
it  solemnity 
( three  parts, 
1,  blowing  on 
iring  certain 
:ed  with  the 
ren.  These 
avoured  race, 
m  wore  their 
hind,  cutting 

1  had  beards, 
)  have  pulled 
s  adorned  by 
ose,  of  which 
ose-quill  or  a 
ed  of  dressed 
lared  with  the 
Lth  a  neat  em- 
lie  hair  of  the 
jvhite.     Their 
pper  garments 
id  the  bottom, 
the  ankle  and 
The  dress  of 
men.     They 
kcelets  of  the 

fillet  or  ban- 
id  richly  with 
slaws  or  talons 
e  neatly  con- 
■cupine-quills. 
•sed  of  strings 
Lrious  colours, 
position  con- 
Iheir  arms  and 
ows,   spears, 
iin-deer  horn, 
dive  or  six  feet 


long,  with  strings  of  sinews ;  and  flint,  iron,  or  copper, 
supplied  barbs  to  the  arrows.  Their  spears,  nearly  six 
feet  long,  were  pointed  with  bone,  while  their  stone  axes 
were  fastened  with  cords  of  green  skin  to  a  wooden  handle. 
Their  canoes  were  light,  and  so  small  as  to  carry  only  one 
person. 

On  5th  July,  the  party  re-embarked.  Continuing  their 
course  west-south-west  they  passed  the  Great  Bear  Lake 
River;  and  steering  through  numerous  islands,  came  in 
sight  of  a  ridge  of  snowy  mountains,  frequented,  according 
to  their  guide,  by  herds  of  bears  and  small  white  buffaloes. 
The  banks  of  the  river  appeared  to  be  pretty  thickly  peopled  ; 
dnd  though  at  first  the  natives  uniformly  attempted  to  escape, 
the  offer  of  presents  generally  brought  them  back,  and  pro- 
cured a  seasonable  supply  of  hares,  partridges,  fish,  or  rein- 
deer. The  same  stories  of  spirits  or  manitous  which  haunted 
the  stream,  and  of  fearful  rapids  that  would  dash  the  canoes 
to  pieces,  were  repeated  by  these  tribes ;  and  the  guide, 
upon  whom  such  representations  had  a  powerful  effect,  de- 
camped in  the  night  during  a  storm  of  thunder  and  light- 
ning. His  place,  however,  was  soon  supplied  ;  and,  after  a 
short  sail,  they  approached  an  encampment  of  Indians, 
whose  brawny  figures,  healthy  appearance,  and  great  clean- 
liness showed  them  to  be  a  superior  race  to  those  lately 
passed.  From  them  Mackenzie  learned  that  he  must  sleep 
ten  nights  before  arriving  at  the  sea,  and  in  three  nights 
would  meet  the  Esquimaux,  with  whom  they  had  been 
formerly  at  war,  but  were  now  in  a  state  of  peace.  One  of 
these  people,  whose  language  was  most  intelligible  to  the 
interpreter,  agreed  to  accompany  the  party ;  but  became 
dreadfully  alarmed  when  some  of  the  men  discharged  their 
fowling-pieces.  It  was  evident  none  of  this  race  had  ever 
heard  the  report  of  firearms.  To  reconcile  him  to  his  de- 
parture, his  two  brothers  followed  in  their  canoes,  and  di- 
verted him  with  native  songs,  and  other  airs  said  to  be  imi- 
tations of  those  of  the  Esquimaux.  The  triumph  of  music 
was  never  more  strikingly  exhibited ;  from  deep  dejection 
the  Indian  at  once  passed  into  a  state  of  the  highest  and 
most  ludicrous  excitement,  keeping  time  to  the  songs  by  a 
variety  of  grotesque  gesticulations,  performed  with  such  un- 
ceasing rapidity  and  so  little  regard  to  the  slendemess  of  the 
bark,  which  quivered  under  his  weight,  that  they  expected 


^'i 


iM 


.,  ?■ 


^     If" 


»! 


128 


QUARRELLER    INDIANS. 


every  moment  to  see  it  upset.  In  one  of  his  paroxy8in6» 
shooting  his  canoe  alongside  of  Mackenzie's,  he  leaped 
into  it,  and  commenced  an  Esquimaux  dance.  At  last  he 
was  restored  to  some  degree  of  composure,  which  became 
complete  on  their  passing  a  hill,  where  he  informed  them 
that  three  winters  ago  the  Esquimaux  had  slain  his  grand- 
father.* 

Mackenzie  soon  after  reached  the  tents  of  a  tribe  named 
Deguthee-Dinees,  or  Quarrellers,  who  justified  their  name 
by  the  menacing  gestures  with  which  they  received  the 
strangers'  approach.  A  few  presents,  however,  reconciled 
them  to  the  intrusion  ;  and  they  communicated  the  gratify- 
ing intelligence  that  the  distance  overland  to  the  sea,  either 
by  an  easterly  or  westerly  route,  was  inconsiderable.  The 
party  now  pushed  on  with  renewed  hopes  ;  and  the  river 
soon  after  separating  into  several  streams,  they  chose  the 
middle  and  largest,  which  ran  north.  This  shortly  brought 
in  sight  a  range  of  snowy  mountains,  stretching  far  to  the 
northward  ;  and,  by  an  observation,  Mackenzie  found  the 
latitude  to  be  67°  47',  which  convinced  him  that  the 
waters  on  which  their  frail  barks  were  then  gliding  must 
flow  into  the  great  Hyperborean  Ocean.  +  At  this  moment, 
when  within  a  few  days  of  accomplishing  the  great  object 
of  their  journey,  the  Indians  sank  into  a  fit  of  despondency, 
and  hesitated  to  proceed.  The  guide  pleaded  his  ignorance 
of  the  country,  as  he  had  never  before  penetrated  to  the 
shores  of  the  Benahulla  Toe,  or  "White  Man's  Lake.  Mac- 
kenzie assured  them  he  would  return  if  they  did  not  reach 
it  in  seven  days,  and  prevailed  on  them  to  continue  theii 
course. 

It  w{  s  now  the  11th  of  July,  and  the  sun  at  midnight 
was  still  considerably  above  the  horizon,  while  every  thing 
denoted  the  proximity  of  the  sea.  On  landing  at  a  deserted 
encampment,  still  marked  by  the  ashes  of  some  Esquimaux 
fires,  they  observed  several  pieces  of  whalebone,  and  a 
place  where  train-oil  had  been  spilt.  Soon  after  they 
came  to  three  houses  recently  left  by  the  natives.  The 
ground-plot  of  these  habitations  was  oval,  about  fifteen  feet 
long,  ten  feet  wide  in  the  middle,  and  eight  feet  at  either 
end ;  the  whole  was  dug  about  twelve  inches  below  the 


'''  Mackenzie's  Travels,  p.  51. 


t  Jbid.  p.  54, 


I 


ESQ17IMAUX    HOUSES. 


129 


paroxysmSi 
8,  he  leaped 

At  last  he 
^hich  became 
[formed  them 
in  his  grand- 

,  tribe  named 
1  their  name 
received  the 
jr,  reconciled 
d  the  gratify- 
he  sea,  either 
erable.     The 
ind  the  river 
ley  chose  the 
lortly  brought 
ing  far  to  the 
:ie  found  the 
lim  that  the 
gliding  must 
this  moment, 
p  great  object 
despondency, 
his  ignorance 
;rated  to  the 
iLake.     Mac- 
id  not  reach 
ntinue  their 

at  midnight 
every  thing 
I  at  a  deserted 
Esquimaux 
)one,  and  a 
after  they 
itives.  The 
It  fifteen  feet 
feet  at  either 
below  the 

|64, 


surface,  one  half  being  covered  with  willow-branches,  and 
probably  forming  the  bed  of  the  whole  family.  In  the  mid- 
dle of  the  other  half,  a  space  four  feet  wide,  which  had 
been  hollowed  to  the  depth  of  twelve  inches,  was  the  only 
spot  where  a  grown  person  could  stand  upright.  One  side 
of  it  was  covered  with  willow-branches,  and  the  other 
formed  the  hearth.  The  door,  in  one  end  of  the  house, 
was  about  two  feet  and  a  half  high  by  two  feet  wide,  and 
was  reached  through  a  covered  way  about  five  feet  long ; 
so  that  the  only  access  to  this  curious  dwelling  was  by 
creeping  on  all-fours.  On  the  top  was  an  orifice  about 
eighteen  inches  square,  which  served  the  triple  purpose  of 
a  window,  a  chimney,  and  an  occasional  door.  The  under- 
ground part  of  the  floor  was  lined  with  split  wood,  while 
cross  pieces  of  timber,  laid  on  six  or  eight  upright  stakes, 
supported  an  oblong  square  roof;  the  whole  being  formed 
of  drift-wood,  and  covered  with  branches  and  dry  grass, 
over  which  was  spread  earth  a  foot  thick.  On  either  side 
of  these  houses  were  a  few  square  holes,  about  two  feet 
deep,  covered  with  split  wood  and  earth,  excepting  one 
small  place  in  the  middle,  which  appeared  to  be  contrived 
for  the  preservation  of  the  winter  stock  of  provisions.  In 
and  about  the  houses  lay  sled-runners,  and  bones,  pieces 
of  whalebone,  and  poplar-bark  cut  in  circles,  used  evi- 
dently to  buoy  the  nets  ;  and  before  each  habitation  a  great 
number  of  stumps  of  trees  were  driven  into  the  ground, 
upon  which  its  late  possessors  had  probably  hung  their 
nets  and  fish  to  dry  in  the  sun. 

The  signs  of  vegetation  were  by  this  time  scarcely  per- 
ceptible ;  the  trees  had  dwindled  into  a  few  dwarf  willows, 
not  more  than  three  feet  high  ;  and  though  the  footmarks 
on  the  sandy  beach  of  some  of  the  islands  showed  that  the 
natives  had  recently  been  there,  all  attempts  to  obtain  a 
sight  of  them  proved  unavailing.  The  discontent  of  the 
guide  and  of  the  Indian  hunters  was  now  renewed ;  but 
their  assertion,  that  on  the  morrow  they  were  to  reach 
a  large  lake  in  which  the  Esquimaux  killed  a  huge  fish, 
and  whose  shores  were  inhabited  by  white  bears,  convinced 
Mackenzie  that  this  description  referred  to  the  Arctic  Sea, 
with  its  mi|;hty  denizen  the  whale.  He  accordingly  pressed 
forward  with  fresh  ardour,  and  the  canoes  were  soon 
carried  by  the  current  to  the  entrance  of  the  lake,  which, 


^i, 


i: 


*     rT" 


"\ 


W 


II 


/ 


*  [.f 


TK' 


130 


MACKENZIE  REACHES  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


from  all  the  accompanying  circumstances,  appears  to  have 
been  an  arm  of  the  Arctic  Ocean.     It  was  quite  open  to 
the  westward,   and   by  an    observation   the   latitude  was 
found  to  be  69°.     From  the  spot  where  this  survey  was 
taken  they  now  continued  their  course  to  the  westernmost 
point  of  a  high  island,  which  they  reached  after  a  run  of 
fifteen  miles,  and  around  it  the  utmost  depth  of  water  was 
only  five  feet.     The  lake  appeared  to  be  covered  with  ice 
for  about  two  leagues'  distance,  no  land  was  seen  ahead, 
and  it  was  found  impossible  to  proceed  farther.     Happily, 
when  they  had  thus  reached  the  farthest  point  of  their 
progress  northward,  and  were  about  to  return  in  great  dis- 
appointment, two  circumstances  occurred  which  rendered 
it  certain  that  they  had  penetrated  to  the  sea:  the  first 
was  the  appearance  of  many  large  floating  substances  in 
the  water,  believed  at  first  to  be  masses  of  ice,  which,  on 
being   approached,   turned    out  to  be   whales ;    and   the 
second,  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide,  observed  both  at  the 
eastern  and  western  end  of  the  island,  which  they  named 
Whale   Island.^     Having   in  company  with  the    £nglisl) 
Chief  ascended  to  its  highest  ground,  Mackenzie  saw  tb^ 
solid  ice  extending  to  the  eastward  ;  and  to  thu  west,  aa 
far  as  the  eye  could   reach,  they  dimly  discerned   a  chain 
of  mountains,  apparently  about  twenty  leagues'  distance, 
stretching  to  the  north wanl.     Many  islands  were  seen  to 
the  eastward  ;  but  though  they  came  to  a  grave,  on  which 
lay  a  bow,  a  paddle,  and  a  spear,  they  met  no  living  human 
beings  in  tliese  arctic  solitudes.     The  red-fox  and  the  rein-^ 
deer,  flocks  of  beautiful  plovers,  some  venerable  white  owls, 
and  several  large  white  gulls  were  the  only  natives.     Prei 
vious  to  setting  out  on  their  return,  a  post  was  erected  close 
to  the  tents,  upon  which  the  traveller  engraved  the  latitude 
of  the  place,  his  own  name,  the  number  of  persons  by  whoni 
he  was  accompanied^  and  the  time  they  had  spent  on  the 
island. 

It  was  now  the  16th  of  July,  and  they  re-embarked  on 
their  homeward  voyage.  On  the  21st  the  sun,  which  for 
some  time  had  never  set,  descended  below  the  horizon,  and 
the  same  day  eleven  of  the  natives  joined  them.  They 
represented  their  tribe  as  numerous,  and  perpetually  a( 

*  Mackenzie,  p.  64, 6{>, 


}  to  have 
open  to 
tutle  was 
irvey  was 
sternmost 
a  run  of 
water  was 
(1  with  ice 
len  ahead, 
Happily, 
it  of  their 
I  great  dis- 
h  rendered 
i:  the  first 
•stances  in 
,  which,  on 
;    and   the 
30th  at  the 
Lhey  named 
tie   English 
izie  saw  the 
the  west,  aa 
led   a  chain 
s'  distance, 
ere  seen  to 
9,  on  which 
ving  human 
Ind  the  rein- 
white  owls, 
;ives.     Pre^ 
irected  close 
the  latitude 
ns  by  whom 
»ent  on  the 

.nbarked  on 
L  which  for 
\orizon,  and 
kem.  They 
tpetually  at 


Mackenzie's  HEturn. 


131 


War  with  the  Esquimaux,  who  had  broken  a  treaty  into 
which  they  had  inveigled  the  Indians,  and  butchered  many 
tof  them.  Occasionally  a  strong  body  ascended  the  river 
in  large  canoes,  in  search  of  flints  to  point  their  spears  and 
arrows.  At  present  they  were  on  the  banks  of  a  lake  to 
the  eastward,  hunting  rein-deer,  and  would  soon  begin  to 
catch  big  fish  (whales)  for  their  winter  stock.  They  had 
been  informed  that  the  same  Esquimaux,  eight  or  ten 
winters  ago,  saw  to  the  westward,  on  White  Man's  Lake, 
several  large  Canoes  full  of  white  men,  who  gave  iron  in 
exchange  for  leather.  On  landing  at  a  lodge  of  natives 
farther  down  the  river,  the  English  Chief  obtained  some 
other  particulars  from  a  Dog-ribbod  Indian,  who  had  been 
driven  by  some'  private  quf»rrel  from  his  own  nation,  and 
lived  among  the  Hare  Indians.  According  to  his  infor- 
mation, there  was  a  much  larger  river  to  the  south-west 
of  the  mountains,  which  fell  into  White  Man's  Lake. 
The  people  on  its  banks  were  a  gigantic  and  wicked  race, 
who  could  kill  common  men  with  their  eyes,  and  sailed  in 
huge  canoes.  There  was,  he  added,  no  known  communi- 
cation by  water  with  this  great  river ;  but  those  who  had 
seen  it  went  over  the  mountains,  and  it  flowed  towards  the 
mid-day  sun.  This  description  proceeded,  he  acknow- 
ledged, not  from  personal  observation,  but  was  taken  from 
the  report  of  others  who  inhabited  the  opposite  mountains. 
Mackenzie,  having  fallen  in  with  one  of  these  strangers,  by 
a  bribe  of  some  beads  prevailed  upon  him  to  delineate  the 
circumjacent  country  and  the  course  of  the  unknown  river 
upon  the  sand.  The  map  proved  a  very  rude  production. 
He  traced  out  a  long  point  of  land  between  the  rivers  with- 
out paying  the  least  attention  to  their  courses.  This  isth- 
mus he  represented  as  running  into  the  great  lake,  at  the 
extremity  of  which,  as  he  had  been  told  by  Indians  jf  other 
nations,  there  was  built  a  Benahulla  Couin,  or  White 
Man's  Fort.  "  This,"  says  Mackenzie,  "  I  took  to  be 
Oonalaska  Fort,  and  consequently  ♦he  river  to  the  west  to 
be  Cook's  River,  and  that  the  body  of  water  or  sea  into 
which  the  river  discharges  itself  at  Whale  Island  commu- 
nicated with  Norton  Sound." 

Mackenzie  now  endeavoured  to  procure  a  guide  across  the 
mountains,  but  the  natives  steadily  refused ;  and  any  ad- 


\ 


'  I 


',  H 


'^ 


r!    J 


.-,'  m 


.a* 


n 


■  >■ 
4: 


r 


if 


it. 


I    ' 


-4. 


132      MACKENZIE  CONCLUDES  HIS  FIRST  JOURNEY. 

ditional  intelligence  which  they  communicated  regarding  the 
country  only  consisted  of  legends  concerning  the  super- 
natural power  and  ferocity  of  its  inhabitants.  They  were 
represented  as  a  sort  of  monsters  with  wings,  who  fed  on 
huge  birds,  which,  though  killed  by  them  with  ease,  no  other 
mortal  would  venture  to  assail.  Having  gravely  stated  this, 
they  began  both  young  and  old  to  jump  and  dance  with 
astonishmg  violence  and  perseverance,  imitating  the  cries 
of  the  rein-deer,  bear,  and  wolf,  in  the  hope  of  intimidating 
Mackenzie  ;  but  when  he  threatened  with  an  angry  aspect 
to  force  one  of  them  along  with  him  across  the  mountains^ 
a  sudden  fit  of  sickness  seized  the  whole  party,  and  in  d 
faint  tone,  which  formed  a  ludicrous  contrast  to  their  former 
vociferation,  they  declared  they  would  expire  the  instant 
they  were  taken  from  their  homes.  In  the  end  the  traveller 
was  compelled  to  leave  them  without  accomplishing  hi& 
object.* 

On  1st  August,  as  the  expedition  approached  the  river  of 
the  Bear  Lake,  the  stars,  which  hitherto,  from  the  extreme 
clearness  of  the  twilight,  had  continued  invisible,  began  to 
twinkle  in  the  sky ;  and  the  air,  from  being  oppressively 
sultry,  became  so  cold  that  perpetual  exercise  could 
scarcely  keep  the  men  warm.  The  women  were  now  con- 
stantly employed  in  making  shoes  of  moose-skin,  as  a  pair 
did  not  last  more  than  a  day,  while  the  hunters  brought  in 
supplies  of  geese,  rein-deer,  and  beaver ;  and  on  one 
occasion  a  wolf  was  killed,  roasted,  and  eaten  with  great 
satisfaction.  On  22d  August,  they  reached  the  entrance 
of  the  Slave  Lake,  after  which  their  progress  homeward 
presented  no  feature  of  interest,  and  on  12th  Septem- 
ber they  arrived  in  safety  at  Fort  Chepewyan,  after  iin 
absence  of  102  days.  The  importance  of  this  journey 
must  be  apparent,  on  considering  it  in  connexion  with 
the  expedition  of  Hearne.  Both  travellers  had  succeeded 
in  reaching  the  shores  of  an  arctic  sea ;  and  it  became 
not  only  an  established  fact  that  there  was  an  ocean  of 
great  extent  in  the  north  of  America,  but  it  was  rendered 
extremely  probable  that  this  sea  formed  its  continuous 
boundary. 

Mackenzie  concluded  his  first  journey  in  September,  1789, 

*  Mackenzie,  p.  87r 


ourney. 

egarding  the 
r  the  super- 
'  They  were 
who  fed  on 
ase,  no  other 
J  stated  this, 
1  dance  with 
ing  the  crie» 
f  intimidating 
angry  asj^ect 
le  mountains^ 
rty,  and  in  a 
;o  their  former 
-e  the  instant 
id  the  traveller 
(inplishing  hi» 

ed  the  river  of 
m  the  extreme 
sible,  began  to 
ig  oppressively 
exercise    could 
were  now  con- 
skin,  as  a  pair 
;ers  brought  m 
■   and  on  one 
[ten  with  great 
the  entrance 
■ess  homeward 
13th  Septem- 
;yan,  after    &n 
ff  this  journey 
fonnexion  with 
had  succeeded 
md  it  became 
i8  an  ocean  of 
it  was  rendered 
[its   continuous 

jptember,  1789, 


MACKENZIE  S  SECOND  JOURNEY. 


133 


%i 


I 


■ft 

I 


and  about  three  years  afterward  undertook  a  second  expe- 
dition, which  proved  still  more  difficult  and  hazardous,  and 
equally  important  and  satisfactory  in  its  results.  His  object 
was  to  ascend  the  Pea^e  River,  which  rises  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  crossing  these,  to  penetrate  to  that  unknown 
river  which  in  his  former  journey  had  been  the  subject  of  his 
unwearied  inquiry.  This  he  conjectured  must  communicate 
with  the  sea ;  and,  pursuing  its  course,  he  hoped  to  reach 
the  shores  of  the  Pacific.  Setting  out  accordingly  on  10th 
October,  1792,  he  pushed  on  to  the  remotest  European 
settlement,  where  he  spent  the  winter  in  a  traffic  for  furs 
with  the  Beaver  and  Rocky  Indians.  Having  despatched 
six  canoes  to  Fort  Chepewyan  with  the  cargo  he  had  col- 
lected, he  engaged  hunters  and  interpreters,  and  launched 
the  canoe  in  which  he  had  determined  to  prosecute  his  dis- 
coveries. Her  dimensions  were  twenty-five  feet  long  within, 
exclusive  of  the  curves  of  stem  and  stem,  twenty-six  inches 
hold,  and  four  feet  nine  inches  beam.  She  was  at  the  same 
time  so  light,  that  two  men  could  carry  her  three  or  four 
miles  without  resting.  In  this  slender  vessel  they  not  only 
stowed  away  their  provisions,  presents,  arms,  ammunition, 
and  baggage,  to  the  v/eight  of  3000  pounds,  but  found  room 
for  seven  Europeans,  two  Indians,  and  the  leader  himself. 
On  embarking,  the  winter  interpreter  left  in  charge  of  the 
fort  could  not  refrain  from  tears  when  he  anticipated  the 
dangers  they  were  about  to  encounter,  while  they  them- 
selves fervently  offered  up  their  prayers  to  Almighty  God 
for  a  safe  return. 

The  commencement  of  their  voyage  was  propitious ;  and 
under  a  serene  sky,  with  a  keen  but  healthy  air,  the  bark 
glided  through  some  beautiful  scenery.  On  the  west  side 
of  the  river  the  ground  rose  in  a  gently-ascending  lawn, 
broken  at  intervals  by  abrupt  precipices,  and  extending  in 
a  rich  woodland  perspective  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach. 
This  magnificent  amphitheatre  presented  groves  of  poplar 
in  every  direction,  whose  openings  were  enlivened  with 
herds  of  elks  and  buffaloes  ;  the  former  choosing  the  steeps 
and  uplands,  the  latter  preferring  the  plains.  At  this  time 
the  buffaloes  were  attended  by  their  young  ones,  which 
frisked  about,  while  the  female  elks  were  great  with  young. 
The  whole  country  displayed  an  exuberant  verdure:  the 
trees  which  bore   blossoms  were   rapidly  bursting   into 

M 


.'ij 


»> 


i\ 

r 

^1' 

i. 

.* 

'liiWi 

1 

It 

jl 

^' 

1 

r 


134 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


U'nt  i 


r. 


\l 


V:W 


'W 


flower,  and  the  soft  velvet  rind  of  the  branches  reflected 
the  oblique  rays  of  a  rising  or  a  setting  sun,  imparting  a 
cheerfulness  ahd  brilliancy  to  the  scene,  which  gladdened 
the  heart  with  the  buovant  Influences  of  the  season.*  Afler 
a  few  days  the  air  became  colder,  the  country  more  deso- 
late, the  track  of  the  large  grisly  bear  was  discerned  on  the 
banks,  and  the  weather  was  occasionally  broken  by  storms 
of  thunder  and  lightning. 

From  this  time  till  the  21st  of  May,  the  passage  was 
attended  with  difficulties  that  would  have  disheartened  a 
less  energetic  leader.  The  river  being  broken  by  frequent 
cascades  and  dangerous  rapids,  it  was  necessary  to  carry 
the  canoe  and  luggage  till  they  could  resume  their  voyage 
in  safety.  On  their  nearer  approach  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, the  stream,  hemmed  in  between  stupendous  rocks, 
presented  a  continuance  of  frightful  torrents  and  impracti* 
cable  cataracts.  The  dangers  to  which  they  had  already 
been  exposed  had  greatly  disheartened  the  men,  and  thej 
began  to  murmur  audibly,  so  that  no  alternative  was  left 
but  to  return.  Indeed  (here  was  some  reason  fcr  this  irre-^ 
solution  ;  by  water  farther  progress  was  impossible,  and 
they  could  only  advance  over  a  mountain  whose  sides  were 
broken  by  sharp  jagged  rocks^  and  thickly  covered  with 
woodt  Mackenzie  despatched  a  reconnoitring  party,  with 
orders  to  ascend  the  mountain,  and  proceed  in  a  straight 
course  from  its  summit,  keeping  the  line  of  the  river  till  they 
ascertained  that  it  was  navigable.  During  their  absence  his 
people  repaired  the  canoe,  while  he  took  an  altitude,  which 
ascertained  the  latitude  to  be  56°  8'.  At  sunset  the  scouts 
returned  by  different  routes.  They  had  penetrated  through 
thick  woods,  ascended  hills,  and  dived  into  valleys,  till  they 
^ot  beyond  the  rapids,  and  agreed,  that  though  the  difficul- 
ties to  be  encountered  by  land  were  alarming,  it  was  their 
only  course.  Unpromising  as  the  task  appeared,  their  spirits 
had  risen  and  their  murmurs  were  forgotten ;  so  that  a  ket- 
tle of  wild  rice  sweetened  with  sugar,  with  the  usual  even- 
ing regale  of  rum,  renewed  their  courage  ;  and,  afler  a 
night's  rest,  thdjy  proceeded  at  break  of  day  on  their  labo- 
rious journey. 

In  the  first  place,  the  men  cut  a  road  up  the  mountain 

*  Mackenzie's  Travels,  p.  154, 155. 


PERILS  OP  THE    JOURNEY. 


135 


Ihe  mountain 


where  the  trees  were  smallest,  felling  some  in  such  a  man- 
ner as  to  make  them  fall  parallel  to  the  road  without  sepa- 
ratinor  them  entirely  from  the  stumps,  in  this  way  forming 
a  kind  of  railing  on  either  side.  The  baggage  and  the 
canoe  were  then  brought  from  the  water-side  to  the  encamp- 
ment,— an  undertaking  exceedingly  perilous,  as  a  single 
false  step  must  have  been  followed  by  immersion  into  the 
river,  which  flowed  here  with  furious  rapidity.  Having  ac- 
complished this  labour,  the  party  breathed  a  little,  and  then 
ascended  the  mountain  with  the  canoe,  having  the  line  or 
rope  by  which  it  was  drawn  up  doubled,  and  fastened  suc- 
cessively to  the  stumps  left  for  this  purpose,  while  a  man 
at  the  end  hauled  it  round  a  tree,  holding  it  on  and  shifting 
it  as  they  advanced.  In  this  manner  the  canoe  was  warped 
up  the  steep  ;  and  by  two  in  the  afternoon  every  thing  had 
been  carried  to  the  summit.  Men  were  then  despatched  to 
cut  the  road  onwards :  and  the  incessant  labour  of  another 
day  could  only  penetrate  about  three  miles,  while  mountains 
much  more  elevated  raised  their  snowy  summits  around  in 
every  direction.  These,  however,  were  at  a  distance  ;  and 
another  day's  exertion  brought  them  through  a  wood  of  tall 
pines  to  the  banks  of  the  river  above  the  rapids.  Before 
again  emba;king,  Mackenzie  left  attached  to  a  pole  a  knife, 
a  steel,  flint,  beads,  and  other  trifles,  as  a  token  of  amity 
to  the  natives  ;  and  one  of  his  Indians  added  a  small  round 
stick  of  green  wood,  chewed  at  one  end  in  the  form  of  a 
brush,  used  to  pick  marrow  out  of  bones, — an  instrument 
which  he  explained  to  be  intended  as  an  emblem  to  the 
people  of  a  country  abounding  in  animals.^ 

They  now  resumed  their  voyage,  enclosed  on  all  sides  by 
mountains  whose  summits  were  covered  with  snow,  and 
one  of  which  to  the  south  rose  to  a  majestic  height.  The 
air  became  chill ;  the  water,  through  which  they  frequently 
waded,  towing  or  pushing  their  bark,  was  intensely  cold ; 
and  on  3lst  May,  they  reached  a  point  minutely  described 
to  them  before  setting  out  by  an  old  Indian  warrior.  Here 
the  river  separated  into  two  streams,  one  running  west- 
north-west,  and  the  other  south-south-east.  The  first  of 
these  they  had  been  warned  to  avoid,  as  it  soon  lost  itself 
In  various  smaller  currents  among  the  mountains ;  and  the 


*  Mackenzie,  p,  181.. 


<n 


^r 


ill' J  I 


■i, 


I 


136 


DESPONDENCY. 


steersman  accordingly  proceeded  into  the  eastern  branclit 
which,  though  not  so  broad  as  the  other,  was  far  more 
rapid.  The  course  of  their  journey  now  led  them  through 
many  populous  beaver-settlements.  In  some  places  these 
animals  had  cut  down  several  acres  of  large  poplars ;  and 
they  saw  multitudes  busy  from  sunrise  to  sunset  erecting 
houses,  procuring  food,  superintending  their  dikes,  and 
going  diligently  tnrough  all  the  labours  of  their  little  com- 
monwealth. Perceiving  soon  after  a  smoke  in  the  forest 
which  lined  the  banks,  and  hearing  the  sounds  of  human 
voices  in  great  confusion,  they  became  aware  that  they 
were  near  an  Indian  encampment  from  which  the  inhabitants 
were  retreating.  Accordingly,  on  approaching  the  shore, 
two  ferocious-looking  men  sprang  from  the  woods  and  took 
their  station  on  a  rising  ground,  brandishing  their  spears 
with  loud  vociferations.  A  few  words  of  explanation  from 
the  interpreter,  and  some  presents,  pacified  them,  and 
Mackenzie  made  anxious  inquiries  regarding  the  nature  of 
the  country,  and  the  gveat  river  which  formed  the  object  of 
his  search.  To  his  mortification  he  found  that  they  were 
unacquainted  with  any  river  to  the  westward  ;  they  had  just 
arrived  over  a  carrying- place  of  eleven  days  from  another 
stream,  which  was  nothing  else  than  a  large  branch  of  the 
one  the  expedition  was  then  navigating.  Their  iron,  they 
said,  was  procured  in  ex(  hange  for  beaver  and  dress  moose- 
skins  from  the  people  there,  who  travelled  during  a  moon  to 
the  country  of  other  tribes  living  in  houses,  and  these  in 
their  turn  extended  their  journeys  to  the  ocean  ;  or,  to  use 
their  disparaging  epithet,  the  Great  Stinking  Lake,  where 
they  traded  with  white  people,  who  came  in  canoes  as  large 
as  islands.  Their  knowledge  of  the  country,  however,  ap- 
peared so  vague,  that  all  hope  of  procuring  a  guide  was 
vain,  and  the  heart  of  the  traveller  sank  within  him  as  he 
felt  that  his  favourite  project  was  on  the  point  of  being 
utterly  disconcerted. 

Amid  this  despondency  a  faint  hope  remained  that  the 
natives,  under  the  influence  of  suspicion,  timidity,  or  from 
imperfectly  understanding  the  interpreter,  had  not  commu- 
nicated all  they  knew;  and  after  a  night  sleepless  from 
anx^'ety,  the  traveller  rose  with  the  sun  to  repeat  his  in- 
quiries. At  first  nothing  satisfactory  could  be  elicited  ;  but 
suddenly,  Mackenzie,  who  stood  beside  the  interpreters, 


f 


MANNERS  OP  iTHfi  ^DtANS. 


lar 


tInJewtooJ,  from  the  few  words  he  know  of  their  IangfUR|Efe« 
that  one  person  mentioned  a  great  river,  while  he  pointed 
significantly  to  that  which  lay  before  them.  On  a  strict 
inquiry,  the  interpreter,  who  had  been  tired  of  the  voyage, 
and  of  whose  fidelity  some  suspicion  was  entertained,  ac- 
knowledged that  the  Indian  spoke  of  a  large  river  whose 
course  was  towards  the  mid-day  sun,  a  branch  of  which 
flowed  near  the  source  of  the  stream  they  were  now  navi- 
gating. This  branch,  he  added,  it  would  not  be  difficult 
to  reach,  there  being  only  three  small  lakes  and  as  many 
carrying-places  on  the  way  to  it ;  but  he  also  insisted  that 
the  great  river  did  not  discharge  itself  into  the  sea.*  This 
last  assertion  was  imputed  to  his  ignorance  of  the  country, 
while  a  rude  map,  which  he  deUneated  with  a  piece  of 
coal  on  a  strip  of  bark,  convinced  thbrn  that  his  information, 
so  for  as  it  went,  was  to  be  relied  on.  A  new  ray  of  hope 
now  arose ;  and  having  induced  an  Indian  to  go  forward  as 
a  guide  to  the  borders  of  the  small  lakes,  Mackenzie  re- 
sumed his  journey  on  10th  June,  promising,  if  successful 
in  his  object,  to  revisit  these  friendly  Indians  in  two  moons. 
These  people  were  of  low  stature  and  meager  frame, 
owing  probably  to  the  difficulty  of  procuring  subsistence  ; 
round  faces,  high  cheek-bones,  black  hair  hanging  in  elf- 
locks  over  their  shoulders,  and  a  swarthy  yellow  com- 
plexion, combined  to  give  them  a  forbidding  aspect ;  while 
their  garments  of  beaver,  rein-deer,  and  ground-hog  skins, 
dressed  with  the  hair  outside,  having  the  tail  of  this  last 
animal  hanging  down  the  back,  might,  when  seen  at  a  dis- 
tance, occasion  some  doubt  whether  they  belonged  to  the 
human  race.  Their  women  were  extremely  ugly,  lustier 
and  taller  than  the  men,  but  much  inferior  in  cleanliness. 
Their  warlike  weapons  were  cedar  bows,  six  feet  long,  with 
a  short  iron  spike  at  one  end,  so  that  they  might  also  be 
used  as  spears.  The  arrows  were  barbed  with  irr  n,  flint, 
stone,  or  bone,  from  two  to  two  feet  and  a  half  long,  and 
feathered  with  great  neatness.  They  had  two  kinds  of 
spears,  both  double-edged,  of  well-polished  iron,  and  with 
shafts  from  six  to  eight  feet  long.  Their  knives  were  of 
iron  worked  by  themselves,  and  their  axes  resembled  a  car- 
penter's adze.     They  used  snares  of  green  skin,  nets  and 


*  Mackenzie,  p.  303, 204. 


h  . '  .t 


I 


H 


\ 

■1: 

hi 

I 

ff 

i.-' 

1-^ 


li  I 


138 


CANOE   WRECKED. 


fishing-lines  of  willow-bark,  hooks  of  small  bones,  and 
kettles  of  watape  so  closely  woven  as  not  to  leak.  Besides 
these  they  had  various  dishes  of  wood  and  bark,  horn  and 
wooden  spoons  and  buckets,  and  leathern  and  net-work  bags. 
Their  canoes,  of  spruce-bark,  calculated  to  hold  from  two 
to  five  persons,  were  propelled  by  paddles  six  feet  long,  with 
the  blade  shaped  like  a  heart.  ^ 

Pursuing  their  journey  under  the  direction  of  the  new 
guide,  they  reached  a  small  lake  in  latitude  54°  24',  which 
Mackenzie  considered  as  the  highest  or  southernmost  source 
of  the  Ungigah  or  Peace  River.  They  passed  two  other 
lakes,  and  again  entered  the  river,  the  navigation  of  which, 
from  its  rapidity  and  the  trees  and  rocks  in  its  channel,  now 
became  dangerous.  The  canoe  struck  on  a  sharp  rock, 
which  shattered  the  stem,  and  drove  her  to  the  other  side, 
where  the  bow  met  the  same  fate  ;  to  complete  the  disaster, 
she  passed  at  this  moment  over  a  cascade,  which  broke 
several  holes  in  her  bottom,  and  reduced  her  to  a  complete 
wreck,  lying  flat  upon  the  water.  All  hands  now  jumped 
out,  and  clinging  desperately  to  the  sides,  were  hurried 
several  hundred  yards  through  a  foaming  torrent  beset  with 
sharp  rocks,  upon  which  they  were  every  instant  in  danger 
of  being  dashed  to  pieces.  Being  carried,  however,  into 
shallow  water,  where  the  canoe  rested  on  the  stones,  they 
were  relieved  from  their  perilous  situation  by  their  com- 
panions on  shore. 

After  this  escape,  a  consultation  was  held  regarding  their 
future  proceedings.  Benumbed  with  cold,  and  intimidated 
by  their  recent  dangers,  the  Indians  proposed  an  immediate 
return  ;  but  the  remonstrances  of  their  leader,  enforced  by 
the  usual  arguments  of  a  hearty  meal  and  an  allowance  of 
rum,  banished  their  fears.  It  was  next  proposed  to  aban- 
don the  wreck,  to  carry  the  baggage  to  the  river,  which  the 
guide  affirmed  to  be  at  no  great  distance,  and  there  to  con- 
struct a  new  vessel.  But  as  it  was  suspected  that  this  rep- 
resentation was  not  to  be  relied  on,  a  party  was  despatched 
to  reconnoitre,  and  brought  back  a  very  confused  and  un- 
promising account  of  the  country.  It  was  therefore  de- 
termined to  repair  the  canoe,  and  proceed  as  before.  For 
this  purpose  bark  was  collected,  which,  with  a  few  pieces 

*  Mackenzie's  Travels,  p.  905, 206. 


MACKENZIE   REACHES   THE   GREAT   RIVER.       139 


mes,  and 
Besides 
horn  and 
vorkbags. 
I  from  two 
long»with 

,f  the  new 
24',  which 
aost  source 

two  other 
1  of  which, 
lannel,  now 
sharp  rock, 

other  side, 
the  disaster, 
yhich  broke 
>  a  complete 
low  jumped 
rere  hurried 
it  beset  with 
rtt  in  danger 
owever,  into 

stones,  they 
'  their  com- 

rarding  their 
_'  intimidated 
m  immediate 

enforced  by 
allowance  of 
jed  to  aban- 
jr,  which  the 
Ithere  to  con- 
Ihat  this  rep- 
Is  despatched 
Ised  and  un- 
Iherefore  de- 
Ibefore.    For 

a  few  pieces 


of  oil-cloth  and  plenty  of  gum,  restored  their  shattered  boat 
to  something  like  a  sea-worthy  condition.  Her  frail  state, 
however,  rendered  it  necessary  to  carry  part  of  the  lading 
on  men^s  shoulders  along  the  banks ;  and  as  a  road  had 
to  be  opened  with  hatchets,  their  progress  was  extremely 
slow. 

On  16th  June,  Mr.  Mackay  and  two  Indians  were  des- 
patched with  orders  to  penetrate  if  possible  to  the  great 
river  in  the  direction  indicated  by  the  guide.  They  suc- 
ceeded ;  but  returned  with  a  discouraging  account  of  the  in- 
terminable woods  and  deep  morasses  which  intervened. 
These  gloomy  prospects  were  increased  by  the  desertion 
of  their  guide  ;  but  nothing  could  repress  Mackenzie's  ar- 
dour. Cutting  a  passage  through  the  woods,  carrying  the 
canoe  round  the  rapids  and  cascades,  they  held  on  their  slow 
and  toilsome  way,  till  at  last,  after  passing  a  swamp,  in  many 
places  wading  to  mid-thigh,  they  enjoyed  the  satisfaction  of 
reaching  the  bank  of  the  great  river,  which  had  been  the 
object  of  so  much  anxious  expectation  and  protracted  hope.^ 

Embarking  anew,  they  were  borne  along  by  a  strong 
current,  which,  slackening  after  a  short  time,  allowed  them 
to  glide  gently  between  banks  of  high  white  cliffs,  sur- 
mounted with  grotesque  and  singularly-shaped  pinnacles. 
After  some  progress,  the  party  were  alarmed  by  a  loud 
whoop  from  the  thick  woods  ;  at  the  same  moment  a  canoe 
guided  by  a  single  savage  shot  out  from  the  mouth  of  a 
small  tributary  stream,  and  a  number  of  natives,  armed 
with  bows  and  arrows,  appeared  on  an  adjacent  rising 
ground,  uttering  loud  cries,  and  manifesting  by  their  gestures 
that  instant  death  would  be  inflicted  on  any  one  who  landed. 
Every  attempt  to  conciliate  them  proved  unavailing ;  and  a 
canoe  was  observed  to  steal  swiftly  down  the  river,  with  the 
evident  design  of  communicating  the  alarm  and  procuring 
assistance.  At  this  critical  moment  the  courage  and  pru- 
dence of  Mackenzie  providentially  saved  his  party.  He 
landed  alone,  with  two  pistols  stuck  in  his  belt ;  having 
first,  however,  given  orders  to  one  of  his  Indians  to  steal 
into  the  woods  with  a  couple  of  guns,  and  to  keep  near  him 
in  case  of  attack.  "  I  had  not  been  long,"  says  he,  "  in 
my  station  on  the  bank,  with  my  Indian  in  ambush  behind  me, 


hi 


I 


*  Mackenaie^s  Travels,  p.  338. 


140 


INTERVIEW   WITH    THE   NATIVES. 


1' 


when  two  of  the  natives  came  off  in  a  canoe,  but  stopped 
when  they  got  within  one  hundred  yards  of  me.  I  made 
signs  for  them  to  land,  and  as  an  inducement  displayed 
looking-glasses,  beads,  and  other  alluring  trinkets.  At 
length,  but  with  every  mark  of  extreme  apprehension,  they 
approached  the  shore,  taking  care  to  turn  their  canoe  stern 
foremost,  and  still  not  venturing  to  land.  I  now  made  them  a 
present  of  some  beads,  with  which  they  were  going  to  push 
off,  when  I  renewed  my  entteaties,  and  after  some  time  pre-* 
vailed  on  them  to  come  ashore  and  sit  down  by  me*  My 
Indian  hunter  now  thought  it  right  to  join  me,  and  created 
some  alarm  in  my  new  acquaintance.  It  was,  however, 
soon  removed,  and  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  find  that  he  and 
these  people  perfectly  understood  each  other.  I  instructed 
him  to  say  every  thing  to  them  which  might  tend  to  sooth 
their  fears  and  win  their  confidence.  I  expressed  my  wish 
to  conduct  them  to  our  canoe  ;  but  they  declined  this  offer : 
and  when  they  observed  some  of  my  people  coming  to- 
wards us,  they  requested  me  to  let  them  return,  and  I  was 
60  well  satisfied  with  the  progress  which  I  had  made  in  my 
intercourse  with  them^  that  I  did  not  hesitate  a  moment  in 
complying  with  their  desire.  During  their  short  stay  they 
observed  us,  and  every  thing  about  us,  with  j^  mixture  of 
admiration  and  astonishment,  We  could  plainly  perceive 
that  their  friends  received  them  with  great  joy  on  their 
return,  and  that  the  articles  which  they  carried  hack  with 
them  were  examined  with  a  general  and  eager  cunosity  : 
they  also  appeared  to  hold  a  consultation  which  lasted  about 
a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  the  result  was  an  invitation  to 
come  over  to  them,  which  we  cheerfully  accepted.  Never- 
theless, on  our  landing,  they  betrayed  evident  signs  of  con- 
fusion, which  arose  probably  from  the  quickness  of  our  move- 
ments, as  the  prospect  of  a  friendly  communication  had  so 
cheered  the  spirits  of  the  people  that  they  paddled  across 
the  river  with  the  utmost  expedition.  The  two  men  who 
had  been  with  us  appeared  very  naturally  to  possess  the 
greatest  share  of  courage  on  the  occasion,  and  were  ready 
to  receive  us  on  our  landing  ;  but  our  demeanour  soon  dis- 
pelled their  apprehensions,  and  the  most  familiar  communi- 
cation took  place  between  us.  When  I  had  secured  their 
confidence  by  the  distribution  of  trinkets  among  them,  and 
bad  treated  the  children  wi^h  sugar,  I  instructed  my  inter? 


AMERICAN    COSMOGRAPHY. 


141 


lit  stopped 
,     I  ma<le 
displayed 
kets.      At 
ision,  they 
anoe  stern 
ade  them  a 
ing  to  push 
ie  time  pre* 
y  me.    My 
ind  created 
s,  however, 
that  he  and 
I  instructed 
nd  to  sooth 
sed  my  wish 
d  this  offer : 
coming  to- 
ti,  and  I  was 
made  in  my 
a  moment  in 
Lort  stay  they 
\  mixture  of 
inly  perceive 
joy  on  their 
Led  hack  with 
■er  curiosity  : 
'  I  lasted  about 
invitation  to 
ited.     Never- 
signs  of  con- 
sofourmove- 
lation  had  so 
[addled  across 
o  men  who 
,  possess  the 
[d  were  ready 
pur  soon  dis- 
|iar  communi- 
secured  their 
ng  them,  and 
[ted  my  inter-; 


preters  to  collect  every  necessary  information  in  their  power 
to  afford  me."* 

The  intelligence  procured  from  this  tribe  was  discourag- 
ing. They  stated,  indeed,  that  the  river  ran  towards  the 
mid-day  sun,  and  that  at  its  mouth  white  people  were  build- 
ing houses ;  but  that  the  navigation  was  dangerous,  and  in 
three  places  absolutely  impassable,  owing  to  the  falls  and 
rapids.  The  nations  through  whose  territories  the  route 
lay  they  represented  as  ferocious  and  malignant,  especially 
their  immediate  neighbours,  who  dwelt  in  subterranean 
houses.  Unappalled  by  this  description,  Mackenzie  re-em- 
barked, and  he  was  accompanied  by  a  small  canoe,  with  two 
persons  who  consented  to  act  as  guides.  Coming  to  a 
place  where  some  savage-looking  people  were  seen  on  a 
high  ground,  it  was  thought  expedient  to  land,  and  an  ami- 
cable interview  took  place,  which  led  to  important  conse- 
quences. On  explaining  the  object  of  the  journey,  one  of 
the  natives,  of  superior  rank  and  intelligence,  drew  a  sketch 
of  the  country  on  a  piece  of  bark,  appealing  during  his  labour 
to  his  companions,  and  accompanying  the  rude  but  perfectly 
intellif4b>  ^  map  by  details  as  to  their  future  voyage.  He 
describe  ^  ■'.  iver  as  running  to  the  east  of  south,  receiving 
in  its  cotfr  'aany  tributary  streams,  and  broken  every  six 
or  eight  leagues  by  dangerous  falls  and  rapids,  six  of  which 
were  altogether  impracticable.  The  carrying-places  he 
represented  as  of  great  length  across  mountains.  He  de- 
picted the  lands  of  three  tribes  in  succession,  who  spoke 
different  languages  ;  and  concluded  by  saying  that  beyond 
them  he  knew  nothing  of  the  country,  except  that  it  was 
still  a  great  way  to  the  sea,  and  that  there  was  a  lake  of 
which  the  natives  did  not  drink.t 

While  the  route  by  water  was  thus  said  to  be  impractica- 
ble, they  asserted  that  the  road  across  the  country  to  the 
ocean  was  short  in  comparison,  and  lay  along  a  valley  free 
from  wood,  and  frequently  travelled.  Other  considerations 
combined  to  recommend  this  latter  course  to  Mackenzie : 
only  thirty  days'  provisions  were  left,  and  the  supply  pro- 
cured by  hunting  was  very  precarious.  The  ammunition 
was  nearly  spent ;  and  ir  the  prosecution  of  the  voyage 
appeared  perilous,  a  return  would  have  been  equally  so. 

*  Mackenzie's  Travels,  p,  244  245.  t  ^Wrf.  p.  253. 


11:1/1 


142 


OVERLAND   JOURNEY. 


I 


\  r  I 


'M 


Under  these  circumslances,  it  was  resolved  to  abandon  the 
canoe,  and  to  penetrate  overland  to  the  Western  Ocean. 

To  arrive  at  the  spot  where  they  were  to  strike  off  across 
the  country,  it  was  necessary  to  return  a  considerable  way 
up  the  river,— a  service  of  great  danger,  owing  to  th6 
shattered  condition  of  the  boat  and  the  hostile  dispositions 
of  the  natives,  who  were  apt  to  change  in  an  instant  from 
the  greatest  friendliness  to  unmitigated  rage  and  suspicion. 
The  guides  deserted  them,  and  it  became  absolutely  neces- 
sary to  build  a  new  canoe.  She  proved  better  than  the  old 
one,  and  they  at  last  reached  the  point  whence  they  were  to 
start  overland.  "We  carried  on  our  backs,"  says  Mac- 
kenzie, "  four  bags  and  a  half  of  pemmican,  weighing  from 
eighty-five  to  ninety-five  pounds  each,  a  case  with  the  in- 
struments, a  parcel  of  goods  for  presents,  weighing  ninety 
pounds,  and  a  parcel  containing  ammunition  of  the  same 
weight ;  each  of  the  Canadians  had  a  burden  of  about 
ninety  pounds,  with  a  gun  and  ammunition,  while  the  In- 
dians had  about  fortyrfive  pounds'  weight  of  pemmican,  be- 
sides their  gun,-r~an  obligation  with  which,  owing  to  their 
having  been  treated  with  too  much  indulgence,  they  ex- 
pressed themselves  much  dissatisfied.  My  own  load  and 
that  of  Mr.  Mackay  consisted  of  twenty-two  pounds  of 
pemmican,  some  rice,  sugar,  and  other  small  articles, 
amounting  to  about  seventy  pounds,  besides  our  arms  and 
ammunition.  The  tube  of  my  telescope  was  also  slung 
across  my  shoulder  ; "  and  owing  to  the  low  state  of  our  pro- 
visions, it  was  determined  that  we  should  content  ourselves 
with  two  meals  a-day."* 

Thus  laden,  they  struck  into  the  woods,  and  travelled 
along  a  tolerably  beaten  path,  arrived  before  night  at  some 
Indian  tents,  where  they  were  joined  by  an  elderly  man 
and  three  other  natives.  The  old  man  held  in  his  hand  a 
spear  of  European  manufacture,  like  a  sergeant's  halberd, 
which  he  stated  he  had  lately  received  from  some  people  on 
the  seacoast,  to  whom  it  had  been  given  by  white  men.  He 
added,  that  those  heavily  laden  did  not  take  more  than  six 
days  to  reach  the  tribes  with  whom  he  and  his  friends  bar- 
tered their  furs  and  skins  for  iron,  and  that  thence  it  was 
scarcely  two  days'  march  to  the  sea.     He  recommended 

*  Mackenzie's  Travels,  p.  285. 


FEMALE   NATIVE    OF   THE    SEACOAST. 


143 


t)andon  the 
Ocean. 
3  off  across 
er»^ble  way 
ing  to  the 
lispositions 
ristant  from 
1  suspicion, 
itely  neces- 
han  the  old 
they  were  to 

says  Mac- 
jighing  from 
with  the  in- 
rhing  ninety 
of  the  same 
len  of  about 
hile  the  In- 
-mmican,  be- 
ring  to  their 
ce,  they  ex- 
iwn  load  and 
o  pounds  of 
aall   articles, 
our  arms  and 
also  slung 
.e  of  our  pro- 

ent  ourselves 

and  travelled 
light  at  some 
elderly  man 
in  his  hand  a 
nt's  halberd, 
me  people  on 
ite  men.    He 
nore  than  six 
friends  bar- 
hence  it  was 
ecommended 


also  that,  while  they  retired  to  sleep,  two  young  Indians 
should  be  sent  forward  to  warn  the  different  tribes  whose 
territories  they  were  approaching, — a  precaution  which  had 
the  best  effects.  Another  pleasing  distinction  between  their 
present  hosts  and  the  other  savages  whom  they  had  passed 
soon  presented  itself :  when  the  weary  travellers  lay  down 
to  rest  the  Indians  took  their  station  at  a  little  distance,  and 
began  a  song  in  a  sweet  plaintive  tone,  unaccompanied  by 
any  instrument,  but  with  a  modulation  exceedingly  pleasing 
and  solemn,  not  unlike  that  of  church-music.  The  cir- 
cumstance may  remind  the  reader  of  the  descriptions  of 
American  music  given  by  Mr.  Meares  and  Captain  Bumey, 
which  it  strikingly  corroborates. 

Having  procured  two  guides,  they  now  proceeded  through 
an  open  country  sprinkled  with  cypresses,  and  joined  a 
family  of  the  natives.  The  father,  on  hearing  their  in- 
tention of  penetrating  to  the  ocean,  pointed  to  one  of  his 
wives  who  was  a  native  of  the  seacoast ;  her  appearance 
differed  from  the  females  they  had  hitherto  seen.  She  was 
of  low  stature,  inclined  to  corpulency,  with  an  oblong  face, 
gray  eyes,  and  a  flattish  nose.  Her  garments  (3dnsisted  of  a 
tunic  covered  with  a  robe  of  matted  bark,  fringed  rouiid  the 
bottom  with  the  beautiful  fur  of  the  sea-otter.  She  Wore 
bracelets  of  brass,  copper,  and  horn,  while  her  hair  was 
braided  with  large  blue  beads,  and  her  ears  and  neck  adorned 
with  the  same.  With  these  people  age  seemed  to  be  an 
object  of  great  veneration  ;  they  carried  an  old  woman  by 
turns  upon  their  backs,  who  was  quite  blind  and  infirm. 
The  country  appeared  well  peopled,  and  the  natives,  though 
at  first  alarmed,  were  soon  conciliated  by  the  guides.  In 
some  places  they  observed  chains  of  small  lakes,  the  valleys 
were  verdant  and  watered  with  pleasant  rivulets,  and  the 
scenery  varied  by  groves  of  cypress  and  poplar,  in  which 
they  were  surprised  to  see  no  animals.  The  inhal  itants 
indeed  seemed  to  live  exclusively  on  fish  ;  and  the  people 
of  one  small  settlement  containing  thirteen  families  were 
denominated,  in  the  language  of  the  country,  Sloa-cuss- 
Dinais,  or  Red  Fish  Men.  They  were  healthy  looking,  and 
more  provident,  cleanly,  and  comfortable  than  the  neigh« 
bouring  tribes. 

One  of  Mackenzie's  greatest  and  most  frequent  perplex- 
ities arose  out  of  the  sudden  fits  of  caprice  and  change  of 


^ 


J 


f 


144 


TERROR   OF    THE    NATIVES. 


■iP' 


* 


purpose  which  characterize  most  savages,  but  none  more 
than  the  Americans.  An  example  of  this  now  occurred  : 
the  guides,  upon  whose  fidelity  the  success  of  the  expedition 
mainly  depended,  were  advancing  apparently  in  the  most 
contented  and  friendly  manner,  when,  in  a  moment,  without 
uttering  a  word,  they  sprang  forward,  and  disappeared  in 
the  woods,  leaving  the  party,  who  were  utterly  unacquainted 
with  the  route,  in  a  state  bordering  on  despair.*  Pushing 
forward,  however,  at  a  hazard,  they  perceived  a  house 
situated  on  a  green  spot  by  the  edge  of  a  wood,  the  smoke 
of  which  curled  above  the  trees,  intimating  that  it  was  in- 
habited. Mackenzie  advanced  alone,  as  his  party  were  too 
much  alarmed  to  second  his  intrepidity ;  and  so  intent  were 
the  inhabitants  upon  their  household  labours,  that  he  ap- 
proached unperceived.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  terror 
and  confusion  occasioned  by  his  sudden  appearance.  The 
women  and  children  uttered  piercing  shrieks,  and  the  only 
man  about  the  place  sprang  out  of  a  back-door  with  the 
rapidity  of  a  wild-cat,  and  fled  into  the  woods.  Their  dis- 
may arose  from  the  belief  that  they  were  surprised  by  ene- 
mies, and  would  be  instantly  put  to  death  ;  an  atrocity  too 
common  among  the  Indian  tribes.  The  conduct  of  the  man 
who  had  fled  was  amusing  :  by  degrees  he  crept  sufliciently 
near  to  watch  the  party ;  and  on  observing  the  kindness  with 
which  the  women  and  children  were  treated,  came  cautiously 
within  speaking  distance.  His  eyes  were  still  staring  in 
his  head.  No  assurances  of  the  interpreters  or  the  women 
could  persuade  him  to  return ;  no  beads,  knives,  or  presents 
of  any  kind  had  the  effect  of  restoring  his  confidence.  On 
being  approached,  he  keptdodging  about  behind  large  trees, 
brandishing  his  bow  and  arrows,  grinning  hideously,  and 
displaying  a  variety  of  strange  antics,  till  at  last,  in  one  of 
his  paroxysms,  he  dived  into  a  thicket  and  disappeared. 
As  suddenly  he  emerged  in  an  opposite  quarter,  and  becom- 
ing pacified,  after  a  succession  of  parleys,  agreed  to  ac- 
company them  as  a  guide. 

On  advancing  from  this  station,  they  travelled  over  an  ele- 
vated tract,  and  at  length  gained  the  summit  of  a  hill,  af- 
fording a  view  of  a  range  of  mountains  covered  with  snow ; 
which,  according  to  the  guide,  terminated  in  the  ocean. 

♦  Mackenzie's  TrayelH,  p  302. 


1.  i 


BEAUTIFUL   SCENERY. 


145 


Passing  along  the  borders  of  several  small  Iflces,  through 
a  swampy  country,  they  arrived  at  a  lodge  of  natives,  who 
received  them  with  hospitality,  and  minutely  scrutinized 
their  appearance.  The  hair  of  the  women  was  tied  in  large 
loose  knots  over  the  ears,  and  plaited  with  great  neatness 
from  the  division  of  the  head,  so  as  to  be  included  in  the 
knots  :  some  had  their  tresses  adorned  with  beads,  produc- 
ing a  very  graceful  effect ;  while  the  men  were  clothed  in 
leather,  their  hair  nicely  combed,  their  complexion  fair,  and 
their  skin  cleanly.  One  young  man  was  at  least  six  feet 
four  inches  in  height,  with  r  ^^repossessing  countenance,  and 
affable  anddignifie^  lai.  ^  All,  not  exccj''..' the  chil- 
dren, carried  a  bura«.«i  pro(...aoned  to  their  si^ngth,  con- 
sisting of  beaver-coating  and  parchment,  skins  of  the  otter, 
marten,  bear,  and  lynx,  besides  dressed  moose-skins.  These 
last  they  procured  from  the  Rocky  Mountain  Indians  ;  and 
for  the  purposes  of  trade  the  people  of  the  seacoast  preferred 
them  to  any  others. 

They  now  continued  their  journey  through  a  beautiful 
valley,  watered  by  a  gentle  rivulet,  to  a  range  of  hills  which 
they  ascended  till  surrounded  by  snow  so  firm  and  compact 
that  it  crunched  under  their  feet.  Before  them  lay  a  stu- 
pendous mountain,  whose  summit,  clad  with  the  same  spot- 
less coronet,  was  partly  lost  in  the  clouds.  Between  it  and 
the  route  they  were  to  follow  flowed  a  broad  river ;  and  de- 
scending from  their  present  elevated  ground,  they  plunged 
into  woods  of  lofty  and  umbrageous  cedars  and  alder-trees.* 
As  they  got  lower  into  these  primeval  forests  they  were 
sensible  of  an  entire  ch  ■  '\c  of  climate.  The  guides  pointed 
out  to  them,  through  the  openings  in  the  dark  foliage,  the 
river  which  flowed  in  the  distance,  and  a  village  on  its 
banks,  while  beneath  their  feet  the  ground  was  covered 
with  berries  of  an  excellent  flavour,  and  completely  ripe. 
The  effect  of  sunset  upon  this  noble  scenery  was  strikingly 
beautiful ;  but  their  admiration  was  interrupted  by  the  de- 
campment of  their  guides,  who,  as  the  shades  of  evening 
began  to  fall,  pushed  forward  at  such  a  pace  that  the  party 
were  soon  left  without  conductors  in  darkness  and  uncer- 
tainty. The  men,  who  were  much  fatigued,  now  proposed 
to  take  up  their  quarters  for  the  night ;  but  their  indefatiga- 

*  Maekenzle's  Travels,  p.  316,  217. 

N 


HO 


SALMON    FISHERY. 


,11 
^1    i 


ble  leader  grapcU  his  way  forwarJ,  and  at  length,  arriving 
at  the  edge  of  the  wood,  perceived  the  light  of  several  fires. 
On  coming  up  he  entered  a  hut  where  the  people  were  em- 

Eloyed  in  cooking  fish,  threw  down  his  burden,  and  thook 
ands  with  the  inmates,  who  did  not  show  any  surprise,  but 
gave  him  to  understand  by  signs  <  ^  it  he  should  go  to  a  large 
house,  erected  on  upright  posts  at  some  distance  from  the 
ground.  A  broad  piece  of  timber,  with  steps  cut  in  it,  led 
to  a  scaffolding  on  a  level  with  the  floor ;  and  ascending 
these,  the  traveller  entered  the  apartment,  passed  three  fires 
at  equal  distances  in  the  middle  of  the  room,  and  was  cor- 
dially received  by  several  people  seated  on  a  wide  board  at 
the  upper  end.  Mackenzie  took  his  place  beside  one  whom, 
from  his  dignified  look,  he  took  to  be  the  chief.  Soon  after 
the  rest  of  the  party  arrived,  and  placed  themselves  near 
him  ;  upon  which  the  chief  arose  and  brought  a  quantity  of 
roasted  salmon.  Mats  were  then  spread,  and  the  fish  placed 
before  them.  When  the  meal  was  concluded,  their  host 
made  signs  which  they  supposed  to  convey  a  desire  that 
they  should  sleep  under  the  same  roof  with  himself ;  but,  as 
his  meaning  was  not  sufficiently  plain,  they  prepared  to 
bivouac  without.  Every  V  'ng  was  done  to  render  their  re- 
pose agreeable  :  a  fire  wa  mdled,  boards  placed  that  they 
might  not  sleep  on  the  bare  ground,  and  two  delicate  dishes 
of  salmon-roes,  beat  up  to  the  consistency  of  thick  cream, 
and  mixed  with  gooseberries  and  wood-sorrel,  were  brought 
for  sujpper.  On  awaking  in  the  morning,  they  found  all 
their  wants  anticipated  in  the  same  hospitable  manner ;  a 
fire  was  already  blazing,  a  plentiful  breakfast  of  roasted 
salmon  and  dried  roes  was  provided,  and  a  regale  of  rasp- 
berries, whortleberries,  and  gooseberries  finished  the  meal.* 
Salmon  was  so  abundant  in  this  river  that  the  people  had 
a  constant  supply.  They  had  formed  across  the  stream  an 
embankment  for  placing  fishing  machines,  which  were  dis- 
posed both  above  and  below  it.  For  some  reason,  however, 
they  would  permit  no  near  inspection  of  the  weir ;  but  it 
appeared  to  be  four  feet  above  the  water,  and  was  constructed 
of  alternate  layers  of  gravel  and  small  trees,  fixed  in  a 
slanting  position.  Beneath  it  were  placed  machines  into 
whicjh  the  salmon  fell  in  attempting  to  leap  over;  an4  on 


Mackenzie's  Travels,  p.  31&-820. 


I 


I 


arriving 
jTal  fites. 
jvere  em- 
nd  Aook 

to  a  large 

,  ftom  the 
tinit,}ed 
ascending 
,  three  fires 
d  was  cor- 
[e  board  at 
one  whom» 
Soon  after 
selves  near 
quantity  of 
e  fish  placed 
,  their  host 
desire  that 
self;  but,  as 
prepared  to 
ider  their  re- 
;ed  that  they 
Blicate  dishes 
thick  cream, 
were  brought 
ley  found  all 
B  manner;  a 
St  of  roasted 
gale  of  rasp- 
ed the  meal.* 
he  people  had 
the  stream  an 
lich  were  dis- 
tson,  however, 

weir ;  but  it 
as  constructed 

^s,  fixed  in  a 
[machines  mto 
'  over ;  ^M  «» 


SUPERSTITIONS. 


147 


either  side  was  a  large  timber  frame  six  feet  above  the  water, 
in  which  passages  were  left  leading  directly  into  the  ma- 
chines, while  at  the  foot  of  the  fall  dipping  nets  were  suc- 
cessfully employed.  These  people  were  observed  to  indulge 
an  extreme  superstition  regarding  their  fish,  refusing  to 
taste  flesh,  and  appearing  to  consider  such  an  act  as  pollu- 
tion. One  of  their  dogs,  having  swallowed  a  bone  which 
the  travellers  left,  was  beaten  by  his  master  till  he  disgorged 
it ;  and  a  bone  of  a  deer  being  thrown  into  the  river,  a 
native  dived,  brought  it  up,  consigned  it  to  the  fire,  hi  .1 
carefully  washed  his  hands.  They  would  not  lend  their 
canoes  for  the  use  of  the  party,  having  observed  some 
venison  which  they  concluded  was  to  be  stowed  on  board ; 
and  they  alleged  that  the  fish  would  immediately  smell  it  and 
leave  them.  Although  generous  in  furnishing  the  strangers 
with  as  much  roasted  fish  as  they  could  consume,  they 
would  part  with  none  in  a  raw  state.  They  believed  salmon 
to  have  an  invincible  antipathy  to  iron,  and  were  afraid  that, 
if  given  raw  to  the  white  men,  they  might  take  serious  of- 
fence at  being  boiled  in  a  vessel  of  this  ominous  metal.  In 
other  respects  nothing  could  exceed  their  friendliness  ;  and 
at  a  neighbouring  village  belonging  to  the  same  tribe,  the 
reception  of  Mackenzie  was,  if  possible,  still  more  kind. 
The  son  of  the  chief  took  from  his  own  shoulders  a  beauti- 
ful robe  of  sea-otter  skin,  and  threw  it  over  the  traveller, 
while  the  father  expressed  the  utmost  satisfaction  in  being 
presented  with  a  pair  of  scissors  to  clip  his  beard, — a  pur- 
pose to  which,  with  the  eager  delight  of  a  child,  he  instantly 
applied  them. 

The  houses  in  this  village  were  constructed  in  the  same 
way  as  those  already  described,  and  remind  us  of  the  lively 
account  given  by  Mr.  Meares.  At  a  little  distance,  Mac- 
kenzie observed  some  singular  wooden  buildings,  which  he 
conjectured  to  be  temples.  They  consisted  of  oblong 
squares,  about  twenty  feet  high  by  eight  broad,  formed  of 
thick  cedar-planks  beautifully  joined.  Upon  these  were 
painted  hieroglyphics  and  figures  of  various  animals,  with 
a  remarkable  degree  of  correctness.  In  the  midst  of  the 
village  was  a  large  building,  at  first  supposed  to  be  the  un- 
finished frame-work  of  a  house.  Its  dimensions,  however, 
were  far  greater  than  those  of  an  ordinary  dwelling,  the 
ground-plot  being  fitty  feet  by  forty-five,  each  end  formed 


I 


148 


MACKENZIE   REACHES   THE   SEA. 


by  four  stout  posts,  fixed  perpendicularly  in  the  earth.  The 
corner  posts  were  unomamented,  and  supported  a  beam  of 
the  whole  length,  having  three  intermediate  props  on  each 
side.  Two  centre  posts  at  each  end,  about  two  feet  and  a 
half  in  diameter,  were  carved  into  colossal  human  figures, 
supporting  ridge-poles  on  their  heads  ;  the  hands  were 
placed  on  the  knees,  as  if  they  felt  diiliculty  in  sustaining 
the  weight,  while  the  figures  opposite  to  them  stood  in  an 
easy  attitude,  with  their  hands  resting  on  their  hips.  The 
posts,  poles,  and  figures  were  painted  red  and  black, 
and  the  carving  was  executed  with  a  truth  and  boldness 
which  bespoke  no  little  advancement  in  sculpture.^  In  the 
mechanical  arts  they  had  arrived  at  considerable  perfection. 
The  chief's  canoe  was  of  cedar,  forty-five  feet  long,  four 
wide,  and  three  feet  and  a  half  deep.  It  was  painted  black, 
and  ornamented  with  drawings  of  various  kinds  of  fish  in 
white  upon  the  dark  ground,  and  the  gunwale,  both  fore 
and  afl,  was  neatly  inlaid  with  the  teeth  of  the  sea-otter. 
In  this  vessel,  according  to  the  old  chief's  account,  he  un- 
dertook, about  ten  winters  before,  a  voyage  towards  the 
mid-day  sun,  having  with  him  forty  of  his  subjects ;  on 
which  occasion  he  met  with  two  large  vessels  full  of  white 
men,  the  first  he  had  seen,  by  whom  he  was  kindly  received. 
Mackenzie  very  plausibly  conjectured  that  these  might  be 
the  ships  of  Captain  Cook. 

It  was  now  the  18th  of  July,  and,  surrounded  by  friendly 
natives,  with  plenty  of  provisions,  pleasant  weather,  and  the 
anticipation  of  speedily  reaching  the  great  object  of  their 
wishes,  they  resumed  their  voyage  in  a  large  canoe,  accom- 
panied by  four  of  the  Indians.  The  navigation  of  the  river, 
as  they  approached  the  ocean,  was  interrupted  by  rapids  and 
cascades ;  but  their  skill  in  surmounting  these  impediments 
was  now  considerable,  and  on  the  20th,  after  a  passage  of 
thirty-six  miles,  they  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
which  discharges  itself  by  various  smaller  channels  into  an 
arm  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  purpose  of  the  expedition 
was  now  completed,  and  its  indefatigable  leader  painted  in 
large  characters,  upon  the  face  of  the  rock  under  whose 
shelter  they  had  slept,  this  simple  memorial :  *^  Alexander 
Mackenzie,  from  Canada  by  land,  the  twenty-second  of  July, 

*  Mackenzie's  Travels,  p.  331 


';^i; 


FRANKLIN^S    FIRST  JOURNEY. 


149 


one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  ninety-three."  Thd  in- 
scription was  only  written  in  vermillion,  and  has  probably 
long  ago  been  washed  away  by  the  fury  of  the  elements  ;  but 
the  name  of  Mackenzie  is  enduringly  consecrated  in  the 
annals  of  discovery,  as  the  first  person  who  penetrated  from 
sea  to  sea  across  the  immense  continent  of  North  America* 
His  return  by  the  same  route  it  is  unnecessary  to  pursue. 


CHAPTER   IV. 

Discoveries  along  the  Shores  of  the  Arctic  Ocean, 

First  and  Second  Expeditions  or  Franklin— Voyage  of  Captain  Beechey. 

The  discoveries  of  Hearne  and  Mackenzie  established  the 
great  fact  that  there  is  a  northern  coast  in  America,  washed 
by  the  Arctic  Ocean,  which  forms,  in  all  probability,  its  con- 
tinuous boundary  ;  and  they  demonstrated  the  practicability 
of  reaching  this  limit  by  passing  over  the  vast  plains  which 
stretch  northward  from  Canada  and  Hudson's  Bay.  The 
voyages  of  Captain  Parry,  also,  which  have  been  already 
detailed,*  fully  corroborated  this  opinion  ;  and  it  appeared 
evident  that  another  expedition,  properly  conducted,  might 
reach  this  shore,  and  more  fully  examine  its  whole  extent. 
Such  an  expedition,  accordingly,  sailed  from  England  on  the 
23d  of  May,  1820,  its  command  beinv  intrusted  to  Lieute- 
nant, now  Sir  John  Franklin,  assisted  by  Dr.  Richardson, 
an  able  mineralogist  and  natural  historian.  During  the  first 
portion  of  their  journey,  they  followed  the  chain  of  the  great 
lakes,  instead  of  the  more  eastern  track  pursued  by  Heame, 
and  having  descended  the  Coppermine  River,  arrived  on 
21st  July,  at  the  shore  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  where  they 
commenced  their  career  of  discovery.  Important  as  were 
the  particulars  of  thbir  survey,  when  considered  in  relation 
to  the  furtherance  of  geographicnl  science,  a  minute  detail 
is  here  unnecessary,  and  we  shall  attempt  only  a  general 
•ketch. 


} 


*  Polar  Seas  and  Regions,  p.  3{&-2a9i. 

N2 


-,l«  -VHy^-w^--. 


» 


h 


ij 


160   VOYAGE  ALONG  THE  ARCTIC  SHORES. 

Paddling  along  the  coast  to  the  eastwardt  on  the  insid« 
of  a  crowded  range  of  islands,  they  encamped  on  shore 
after  a  run  of  thirty-seven  miles,  in  which  they  experienced 
little  interruption,  and  saw  only  a  small  iceberg  in  the  dis- 
tance, though  that  beautiful  luminous  eflfulgence  emitted 
from  the  congregated  ices,  and  distinguished  by  the  name 
of  the  ice-blink,  was  distinctly  visible  to  the  northward. 
The  coast  was  found  of  moderate  height,  easy  of  access,  and 
covered  with  vegetation ;  but  the  islands  were  rocky  and 
barren,  presenting  high  cliffs  of  a  columnar  structure.  In 
continuing  their  voyage,  the  dangers  which  beset  a  naviga- 
tor in  these  dreadful  polar  solitudes  thickened  gloomily 
around  them :  the  coast  became  broken  and  steril,  and  at 
length  rose  into  a  high  and  rugged  promontory,  against 
which  some  large  masses  of  ice  had  drifted,  threatening 
destruction  to  their  slender  canoes.  In  attempting  to  round 
this  cape  the  wind  rose,  an  awful  gloom  involved  the  sky, 
and  the  thunder  burst  over  their  heads,  compelling  them  to 
encamp  till  the  storm  subsided.  They  then,  at  the  immi- 
nent risk  of  having  the  canoes  crushed  by  the  floating  ice, 
doubled  the  dreary  promontory,  which  they  denominated 
Cape  Barrow,  and  entered  Detention  Harbour,  where  they 
landed.  Around  them  the  land  consisted  of  mountains  of 
granite,  rising  abruptly  from  the  water's  edge,  destitute  of 
vegetation,  and  attaining  an  elevation  of  1400  or  1500  feet ; 
seals  and  small  deer  were  the  only  animals  seen,  and  the 
former  were  so  shy  that  all  attempts  to  approach  within 
shot  were  unsuccessful.  With  the  deer  the  hunters  were 
more  fortunate  :  but  these  were  not  numerous  ;  and  while 
the  ice  closed  gradually  around  them,  and  their  little  stock 
of  provisions,  consisting  of  pemmican  and  cured  beef,  every 
day  diminished,  it  was  impossible  not  to  regard  their  situa- 
tion with  uneasiness.  Rounding  Cape  Kater,  they  entered 
Arctic  Sound,  and  sent  a  party  to  explore  a  river  upon  the 
banks  of  which  they  expected  to  find  an  Esquimaux  encamp- 
ment. All,  however,  was  silent,  desolate,  and  deserted : 
even  these  hardy  natives,  bred  amid  the  polar  ices,  had 
removed  from  so  barren  a  spot,  and  the  hunters  returned 
with  two  small  deer  and  a  brown  bear  ;  the  latter  animal  so 
lean  and  sickly-looking  that  the  men  declined  eating  it ;  but 
the  officers  boiled  its  paws,  and  found  them  excellent. 

Proceeding  along  the  eastern  shore  of  Arctic  Sound,  to 


»  « 


TERMINATION   OF   THE   VOYAGE. 


161 


Tvhich  they  gave  the  name  of  Bankes^s  Peninsula,  the  expe- 
dition made  its  painful  way  along  a  coast  indented  by  bays, 
and   in  many  places  studded   with  islands,   till  on   10th 
August  they  reached  the  open  sea ;  and  sailing,  as  they 
imagined,  between  the  continent  and  a  large  island,  found 
to  their  deep  disappointment  that,  instead  of  an  open  chan- 
nel, they  were  in  ti.*^  centre  of  a  vast  bay.     The  state  of 
the  expedition  now  called  for  the  most  serious  consideration 
upon  the  part  of  their  commander.     So  much  time  had 
already  been  spent  in  exploring  the  sounds  a  td  inlets,  that 
all  hope  of  reaching  Repulse  Bay  was  vain  ;  both  can  ^es 
had  sustained  material  injury  ;  the  fuel  was  expended  ;  ihfit 
provisions  were  sufficient  only  for  three  days  ;  the  appear- 
ances of  the  setting  in  of  the  arctic  winter  were  too  unequi- 
vocal to  be  mistaken  ;  the  deer,  which  had  hitherto  supplied 
them  with  fresh  meat,  would,  it  was  well  known,  soon  dis- 
appear ;  the  geese  and  other  aquatic  birds  were  alreat'  y  den 
winging  their  way  to  the  southward  ;  while  the  mei>  v  ho 
had  up  to  this  moment  displayed  the  utmost  courage,  began 
to  look  disheartened,  and  to  entertain  serious  apprehensions 
for  their  safety.    Under  these  circumstances,  Franklin,  with 
the  concurrence  of  his  officers,  determined  not  to  endanger 
the  lives  of  his  people  by  a  farther  advance ;  and;  after 
spending  four  days  in  a  minute  survey  pf  the  bay,  it  was 
resolved  to  return  by  Hood's  River  to  Fort  Enterprise. 
Franklin's  researches,   as  far  as  prosecuted  at  this  time, 
favoured  the  opinion  of  those  who  contended  for  the  practi- 
cability of  a  north-west  passage.     It  appeared  probable  that 
the  coast  ran  east  and  west  in  the  latitude  s^^igned  to  Mac- 
kenzie's River,   and  little  doubt  could,  ir    lus  op'.nion,  be 
entertained  regarding  the  existence  of  a  continued  sea  in 
that  direction.     The  portion  over  which  they  passed  was 
navigable  for  vessels  of  any  size ;  and  the  ice  met  with  after 
quitting  Detention  Harbour  would  not  have  arrested  a  strong 
boat,  while  the  chain  of  islands  afforded  shelter  from  all 
heavy  seas,  and  there  were  good  harbours  at  convenient 
distances.     Having  with  v/iuch  severe  privation  completed 
their  course  from  Point  Tumagain  in  Melville  Bay  to  the 
entrance  of  Hood's  River,  they  ascended  as  high  as  the  first 
rapid  and  encamped,  terminating  here  their  voyage  on  the 
Arctic  Sea,  during  which  they  had  gone  over  650  geogra- 
phical miles. 


n 


'.'SfKiSf'*>'iiV»t^''"W"'  "iiw-jw".' 


. '   t.r.   .  *_ 


152 


LAND   JOtJRKEV. 


On  the  prospect  of  commencing  their  land  jommey  the 
Canadians  could  not  conceal  their  satisfaction  ;  and  the 
evening  previous  to  their  departure  was  passed  in  talking 
over  their  past  adventures,  and  congratulating  each  other 
in  having  at  length  turned  their  backs  upon  the  sea,-— 
little  anticipating  that  the  most  painful  and  hazardous  por- 
tion of  the  expedition  was  yet  to  come.  Before  setting  off, 
an  assortment  of  iron  materials,  beads,  looking-glasses,  and 
other  articles,  were  put  up  in  a  conspicuous  situation  for 
the  Esquimaux,  and  the  English  union  was  planted  on  the 
loftiest  sand-hill,  where  it  might  be  seen  by  any  ships  pass- 
ing in  the  offing.  Here  also  was  deposited  in  a  tin  box  a 
letter  containing  an  outline  of  the  proceedings  of  the  expe- 
dition, the  latitude  and  longitude  of  the  principal  places, 
and  the  course  intended  to  be  pursued  towards  Slave  Lake. 
They  now  proceeded  up  the  river  in  their  canoes,  and  though 
upon  a  short  allowance  of  provisions,  the  produce  of  their 
nets  and  fowling-pieces  furnished  for  a  few  days  enough  to 
ward  off  absolute  want,  but  they  were  often  on  the  very 
brink  of  it.  Their  progress  was  much  interrupted  by  shoals 
and  rapids,  and  one  evening  they  encamped  at  the  lower  end  of 
a  narrow  chasm,  the  walls  of  which  were  upwards  of  200  feet 
high,  and  in  some  places  only  a  few  yards  apart.  Into  this 
the  river  precipitates  itself,  forming  two  magnificent  cas- 
cades, to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Wilberforce  Falls. 
On  taking  a  survey  of  its  farther  course  from  a  neighbour- 
ing hill,  it  was  discovered  to  be  so  rapid  and  shallow  that 
all  progress  in  the  large  canoes  seemed  impossible.  Two 
smaller  boats  were  therefore  constructed  ;  and  ou  1st  Sep- 
tember, they  set  off  with  the  intention  of  proceeding  in  as 
direct  a  line  as  possible  to  the  part  of  Point  Lake  opposite 
their  spring  encampment, — a  distance  which  appeared  com- 
paratively trifling,  being  only  149  miles.  Their  luggage 
consisted  of  ammunition,  nets,  hatchets,  ice-chisels,  astro- 
nomical instruments,  clothing-blankets,  three  kettles,  and 
the  two  canoes,  each  so  light  as  to  be  carried  easily  by  a 
single  man.  But  disaster  attacked  them  in  their  very  first 
stage.  A  storm  of  snow  came  on,  accompanied  by  a  high 
wind,  against  which  it  was  difficult  to  carry  the  canoes, 
that  were  damaged  by  the  falls  of  those  who  bore  them. 
The  ground  was  covered  with  small  stones,  and  much  pain 
was  endured  by  the  carriers,  whose  soft  moose*8kin  shofef 


FAILURE    OF    PROVISIONS. 


163 


)irmey  the 
;  and  the 
in  talking 
each  other 
the  sea, — 
irdous  por- 
setting  ofT, 
lasses,  and 
tuation  for 
ited  on  the 
ships  pass- 
i  tin  box  a 
f  the  expe- 
pal  places, 
Slave  Lake, 
and  though 
tee  of  their 
3  enough  to 
m  the  very 
id  by  shoals 
lower  end  of 
,  of  200  feet 
;.    Into  this 
lificent  cas- 
*orce  Falls, 
neighbour- 
allow  that 
lible.     Two 
in  1st  Sep- 
eding  in  as 
e  opposite 
leared  conx- 
lir  luggage 
sels,  astro- 
lettles,  and 
jeasily  by  a 
|r  very  first 
by  a  high 
le  canoes, 
tore  them, 
luch  pain 
ikin  shoe* 


were  soon  cut  through.  The  cold  was  intense ;  and  on 
encamping  they  looked  in  vain  for  wood ;  a  fire  of  moss 
was  all  they  could  procure,  which  served  them  to  cook 
their  supper,  but  gave  so  little  heat  that  they  were  glad  to 
creep  under  their  blankets.* 

Having  ascended  next  morning  one  of  the  highest  hills, 
they  ascertained  that  the  river  took  a  westerly  course,  and 
Franklin,  thinking  that  to  follow  it  farther  would  lead  to  a 
more  tedious  journey  than  their  exhausted  strength  could 
endure,  determined  to  quit  its  banks  and  make  directly  for 
Point  Lake.  Emerging,  therefore,  from  the  valley,  they 
crossed  a  barren  country,  varied  only  by  marshy  levels  and 
small  lakes.  The  weather  was  fine,  but  unfortunately 
no  berry-bearing  plants  were  found,  the  surface  being 
covered  in  the  more  humid  spots  with  a  few  grasses,  and 
in  other  places  with  some  gray  melancholy  lichens.  On 
encamping,  the  last  piece  of  pemmican,  or  pounded  fiesh, 
was  distributed,  with  a  little  arrow-root,  for  supper.  The 
evening  was  warm ;  but  dark  clouds  overspread  the  sky, 
and  they  experienced  those  sudden  alternations  of  climate 
which  occur  in  the  polar  latitudes  at  this  season.  At  mid- 
night it  rained  in  torrents ;  but  towards  morning  a  snow- 
storm arose,  accompanied  by  a  violent  gale.  During  the 
whole  day  the  storm  continued,  and  not  having  the  comfort 
of  a  fire  the  men  remained  in  bed,  but  the  tents  were  frozen ; 
around  them  the  snow  had  drifted  to  the  depth  of  thrcfB  feet, 
and  even  within  lay  several  inches  thick  on  their  blankets. 
Though  the  storm  had  not  abated  any  longer  delay  was  im- 
possible, for  they  knew  every  hour  would  increase  the 
intensity  of  an  arctic  winter  ;  and  though  faint  from  fasting, 
and  with  their  clothes  stiffened  by  frost,  it  was  absolutely 
necessary  to  push  forward.  They  suffered  much  in  pack- 
ing the  frozen  tents  and  bedclothes,  and  could  hardly  keep 
their  hands  out  of  their  fur  mittens.  On  attempting  to 
move,  Franklin  was  seized  with  a  fainting  fit,  occasioned 
by  hunger  and  exhaustion,  and  on  recovering  refused  to  eat 
a  morsel  of  portable  soup,  which  was  immediately  prepared 
for  him,  as  it  had  to  be  drawn  from  the  only  remaining 
meal  of  the  party.  The  people,  however,  kindly  crowded 
round,  Eind  overcame  his  reluctance.  The  efifect  of  eating 
was  his  rapid  recovery ;  and  the  expedition  moved  oni 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  399. 


(  ■ 


SI 

^  B 

tm 

;, 

f 

t 

K' 

'r 

'W 

1 

'      1 

'!  'H': 

<  till 

154 


RIVER    CONGECATHAWHACHAOA. 


Disaster  now  crowded  on  disaster.  The  wind  rose  so 
high,  that  those  who  carried  the  canoes  were  frequently 
blown  down,  and  one  of  the  boats  was  so  much  shattered 
as  to  be  rendered  unserviceable.  The  ground  was  covered 
with  snow  ;  and  though  the  swamps  were  frozen,  yet  the 
ice  was  often  not  sufficiently  strong  ;  so  that  they  plunged 
in  knee-deep.  A  fire,  however,  was  made  of  the  bark  and 
timbers  of  the  broken  canoe ;  and  after  having  fasted  three 
days,  their  last  meal  of  portable  soup  and  arrow-root  was 
cooked.  Each  man^s  allowance  at  this  melancholy  dinner 
was  exceedingly  scanty  ;  but  it  allayed  the  pangs  of  hunger, 
and  encouraged  them  to  press  forward  at  a  quicker  rate. 
They  had  now  reached  a  more  hilly  country,  strewed  with 
large  stones,  and  covered  with  gray  lichen,  well  known  to 
the  Canadians  by  its  name  tripe  de  roche.  In  cases  of  ex- 
tremity, it  is  boiled  and  eaten  ;  but  its  taste  is  nauseous,  itd 
quality  purgative,  and  it  sometimes  produces  an  intolerable 
griping  and  loathing.  The  party,  not  being  aware  of  this, 
gathered  a  considerable  quantity.  A  few  partridges  also 
had  been  shot;  and  at  night  some  willows  were  dug  up 
from  under  the  snow,  with  which  they  lighted  a  fire  and 
cooked  their  supper. 

Next  day  they  came  to  Cracroft's  River,  flowing  to  the 
westward  over  a  channel  of  large  stones,  that  rendered  it 
impossible  to  cross  in  the  canoe.  No  alternative  was  lefl  but 
to  attempt  a  precarious  passage  over  some  rocks  at  a  rapid  ; 
and  in  effecting  this  some  of  the  men,  losing  their  balance, 
slipped  into  the  water.  They  were  instantly  rescued  by  their 
companions ;  but  so  intense  was  the  frost,  that  their  drenched 
clothes  became  caked  with  ice,  and  they  suffered  much 
during  the  remainder  of  the  day^s  march.  The  hunters  had 
fallen  in  with  some  partridges,  which  they  shot,  and  they 
found  enough  of  roots  to  make  a  fire  ;  so  that  their  supper, 
though  scanty,  was  comparatively  comfortable.  Next  morn- 
ing they  pushed  forward  with  ardour,  and  passed  the  river 
Congecathawhachaga  of  Mr.  Hearne.  The  country  which 
lay  before  them  was  hilly,  and  covered  with  snow  to  a  great 
depth.  The  sides  of  the  hills  were  traversed  by  sharp  an- 
gular rocks,  where  the  drifted  snow,  filling  up  the  interstices, 
presented  a  smooth  but  fallacious  surface,  which  often  gave 
way  and  precipitated  them  into  the  chasms  with  their  heavy 
loads.     In  this  painful  and  arduous  manner  they  struggled 


PROVIDENTIAL   SUPPLY. 


155 


id  rose  so 
frequently 
shattered 
as  covered 
jn,  yet  the 
sy  plunged 
,e  bark  and 
isted  three 
w-root  was 
tioly  dinner 
I  of  hunger, 
licker  rate, 
revved  with 
1  known  to 
ases  of  ex- 
auseous,  its 
1  intolerable 
rare  of  this, 
tridges  also 
ere  dug  up 
1  a  fire  and 


forward  several  days,  feeding  on  the  tripe  de  roche,  which 
was  so  frozen  to  the  rocks  that  their  hands  were  benumbed 
before  a  meal  could  be  collected,  and  so  destitute  of  nutri- 
tive juices  that  it  allayed  hunger  only  for  a  very  short  time. 
At  length  reaching  the  summit  of  a  hill,  they,  to  their  great 
delight,  beheld  a  herd  of  musk-oxen  feeding  in  the  valley 
below ;  an  instant  halt  was  made,  the  best  hunters  were 
called  out,  and  while  they  proceeded  with  extreme  caution 
in  a  circuitous  route,  their  companions  watched  their  pro- 
ceedings with  intense  anxiety.  When  near  enough  to  open 
their  fire,  the  report  reverberated  through  the  hills,  and  one 
of  the  largest  cows  was  seen  to  fall.  "  This  success,"  says 
Franklin,  in  that  simple  and  beautiful  account  of  his  journey 
which  any  change  of  language  would  only  weaken,  "  infused 
spirit  into  our  starving  party.  The  contents  of  its  stomach 
were  devoured  upon  the  spot  ;  and  the  raw  intestines,  which 
were  next  attacked,  were  pronounced  by  the  most  delicate 
of  the  pjirty  to  be  excellent.  A  few  willows,  whose  tops 
were  seen  peeping  through  the  snow  in  the  bottom  of  the 
valley,  were  quickly  grubbed,  the  tents  pitched,  and  supper 
cooked  and  devoured  with  avidity.  It  was  the  sixth  day 
since  we  had  had  a  good  meal.  I  do  not  think  that  we 
witnessed,  through  the  course  of  our  journey,  a  more  strik- 
ing proof  of  the  wise  dispensation  of  the  Almighty,  and  of 
the  weakness  of  our  own  judgment,  than  on  this  day.  We 
had  considered  the  dense  fog  which  prevailed  throughout  the 
morning  as  almost  the  greatest  inconvenience  which  could 
have  befallen  us,  since  it  rendered  the  air  extremely  cold, 
and  prevented  us  from  distinguishing  any  distant  object 
towards  which  our  course  could  be  directed.  Yet  this  very 
darkness  enabled  the  party  to  get  to  the  top  of  the  hill, 
which  bounded  the  valley  wherein  the  musk-oxen  were 
grazing,  without  being  perceived.  Had  the  herd  discovered 
us  and  taken  alarm,  our  hunters,  in  their  present  state  of 
debility,  would  in  all  probability  have  failed  in  approaching 
them."* 

On  the  following  day  a  strong  southerly  wind  blowing 
with  a  snow-drift,  they  took  a  day's  rest,  and  as  only  enough 
remained  of  the  musk-ox  to  serve  for  two  days,  they  con- 
tented themselves  with  a  single  meal.      Next  morning 


I  ^^ 


1 


m 


*  Fraakli&'s  Joum«y,  vol.  It.  p.  18,  small  edition  of  1821^ 


.  tv 


W 


156 


SUFFERINGS   FROM   FAMINE. 


MH     " 


^    i1 


K  •      *  ■ 


though  the  gale  had  not  diminished,  they  pushed  forward, 
and  notwithstanding  their  rest  and  recent  supply  of  animal 
food,  the  whole  party  felt  greater  weakness  than  they  had 
hitherto  experienced.  The  weather  was  hazy,  hut  after  an 
hour's  march  the  sky  cleared,  and  they  found  themselves  on 
the  borders  of  a  lake,  of  which  they  could  not  discern  the 
termination  in  either  direction.  In  these  circumstar  ces  they 
travelled  along  its  banks  to  the  westward,  in  sea  ch  of  a 
crossing-place.  Credit,  one  of  the  Canadians,  left  t  e  party 
in  hopes  of  falling  in  with  deer,  but  did  not  return  ;  and  on 
encamping  in  the  evening,  hungry  and  fatigued,  the}  had  to 
divide  for  supper  a  single  partridge  and  some  tripe  de  roche. 
This  weed  from  the  first  had  been  unpalatable,  but  now 
became  insupportably  nauseous,  and  began  in  many  to  pro- 
duce severe  pains  and  bowel  complaints,  especially  in  Mr. 
Hood,  one  of  the  young  officers  attached  to  the  expedition. 
This  solitary  partridge  was  the  last  morsel  of  animal  food 
that  remained  ;  and  they  turned  with  deep  anxiety  to  the 
hope  of  catching  some  fish  in  the  lake,  but  discovered  that 
the  persons  intrusted  with  them  had  jmprovidently  thrown 
away  three  of  the  nets  and  burnt  the  floats  on  leaving  Hood's 
River.  Things  now  began  to  look  very  gloomy  ;  and  as  the 
men  were  daily  getting  weaker,  it  was  judged  expedient  to 
lighten  their  burdens  of  every  thing  except  ammunition, 
clothing,  and  the  instruments  necessary  to  guide  them  on 
their  way.  The  dipping-needle,  the  azimuth  compass,  the 
magiiet,  a  large  thermometer,  and  the  few  books  they  car- 
ried were  therefore  deposited  at  this  encampment,  after 
they  had  torn  out  from  these  last  the  tables  necessary  for 
working  the  latitude  and  longitude.  Rewards  also  were 
promised  by  Franklin  to  such  of  the  party  as  should  kill  any 
animals,  and  in  the  morning  they  prepared  to  go  forward. 

At  this  moment  a  fine  trait  of  disinterestedness  occurred : 
as  the  ofiScers  assembled  round  a  small  fire,  enduring  an 
intense  degree  of  hunger  which  they  had  no  means  of  satis- 
fying, Perrault,  one  of  the  Canadians,  presented  each  of 
them  with  a  piece  of  meat  out  of  a  little  store  which  he 
had  saved  from  his  allowance.  "  It  was  received,"  says 
Franklin,  *<  With  great  thankfulness,  and  such  an  instance 
of  delf-denial  and  kindness  filled  our  eyes  with  tears." 
Pressing  forward  to  a  river  issuing  from  the  lake,  they  met 
their  comrade  Credit,  and  received  the  joyful  intelligence 


fv 


CANOE   SWAMPED. 


167 


id  forward, 
of  animal 
[1  they  had 
ut  after  an 
m  selves  on 
aUcem  the 
tar  ces  they 
ser  ch  of  a 
;ftl  e  party 
m ;  and  on 
the)  had  to 
pe  de  roche. 
le,  but  now 
lany  to  pro- 
cially  in  Mr. 
5  expedition, 
animal  food 
ixiety  to  the 
covered  that 
sntly  thrown 
avingHood*s 
;  and  as  the 
expedient  to 
ammunition, 
ide  them  on 
jompass,  the 
»ks  they  car- 
Ipment,  after 
lecessary  for 
Is  also  were 
ould  kill  any 
ro  forward. 
Iss  occurred : 
[enduring  an 
bans  of  satis- 
[ted  each  of 
Ire  which  he 
leived,"  says 
an  instance 
ith  tears." 
[ke,  they  met 
intelligence 


that  he  had  killed  two  deer.  One  of  these  was  Immediately 
cut  up  and  prepared  for  breakfast ;  and  having  sent  some 
of  the  party  for  the  other,  the  rest  proceeded  down  the  river, 
which  was  about  300  yards  broad,  in  search  of  a  place  to 
cross.  Having  chosen  a  spot  wher  *  »he  current  was  smooth, 
immediately  above  a  rapid,  FranKlin  and  two  Canadian 
boatmen,  St.  Germain  and  Belanger,  pushed  from  the  shore. 
The  breeze  was  fresh,  and  the  current  stronger  than  they 
imagined,  so  that  they  approached  the  very  edge  of  the 
jrapii ;  and  Belanger,  employing  his  paddle  to  steady  the 
canoe,  lost  his  balance,  and  overset  the  bark  in  the  middle 
of  It.  The  party  clung  to  its  side,  and  reaching  a  rock 
where  the  stream  was  but  waist-deep,  kept  their  footing  till 
the  canoe  was  emptied  of  water,  after  which  Belanger  held 
it  steady  while  St.  Germain  replaced  Franklin  in  it  and 
dexterously  leaped  in  himself.  Such  was  their  situation, 
thtt  if  the  man  who  stood  on  the  rock  had  raised  his  foot 
they  would  have  been  lost.  His  friends  therefore  were 
compelled  to  leave  him,  and  after  a  second  disaster,  in  which 
the  canoe  struck,  and  was  as  expeditiously  righted  as  before, 
tliey  reached  the  opposite  bank.  Meanwhile  Belanger  suf- 
fered extremely,  immersed  to  his  middle,  and  enduring 
intense  cold.  He  called  piteously  for  relief,  and  St.  Ger- 
main, re-embarking,  attempted  to  reach  him,  but  was  hurried 
down  the  rapid,  and  on  coming  ashore  was  so  benumbed 
ae  to  be  incapable  of  further  exertion.  A  second  effort, 
but  equally  unsuccessful,  was  made  by  Adam  :  they  then 
tried  to  carry  out  a  line  formed  of  the  slings  of  the  men's 
■lo&ds,  but  it  broke,  and  was  carried  down  the  stream.  At 
last,  when  he  was  almost  exhausted,  the  canoe  reached  him 
with  a  small  cord  of  cne  of  the  remaining  nets,  and  he  was 
dragged  to  shore  quite  insensible.  On  being  stripped^  rolled 
f  -  blankets,  and  put  to  bed  between  two  men,  he  recovered. 
Ihiring  these  operations  Franklin  was  left  alone  upon  the 
bank,  and  it  seemed  a  matter  of  the  utmost  doubt  whether 
he  should  be  ever  rejoined  by  his  companions.  "  It  is  im- 
possible," says  he,  "  to  describe  my  sensations  as  I  witnessed 
the  various  unsuccessful  attempts  to  relieve  Belanger.  The 
distance  prevented  my  seeing  distinctly  what  was  going  on, 
and  I  continued  pacing  up  and  down  the  rock  on  which  I 
stood,  regardless  of  the  coldness  of  my  drenched  and  stiffen 
i|ig  garments.    The  canoe,  in  every  attempt  to  reach  him, 


u 


158 


DESOLATE   SITUATION. 


V 


■^ 


was  hurried  down  the  rapid,  and  was  lost  to  view  iunon|^ 
the  rocky  islets  with  a  fury  which  Reemod  to  threaten  instant 
destruction  ;  once  indeed  I  fancied  that  I  saw  it  overwhelmed 
in  the  waves  ;  such  an  event  would  have  been  fatal  to  the 
whole  party.     Separated  as  I  was  from  my  companions, 
without  gun,  ammunition,  hatchet,  or  the  means  of  making  & 
fire,  and  in  wet  clothes,  my  doom  would  have  been  speedily 
sealed.     My  companions,  too,  driven  to  the  necessity  of 
coasting  the  lake,  must  have  sunk  under  the  fatigue  of 
rounding  its  innumerable  arms  and  bays,  which,  as  we* 
learned  afterward  from  the  Indians,  are  extensive.     By  the- 
goodness  of  Providence,  however,  we  were  spared  at  that 
time,  and  some  of  us  have  been  permitted  to  offer  up  our 
thanksgiving  in  a  civilized  land  for  the  signal  deliverance  we- 
then  and  afterward  experienced."* 

On  setting  out  next  morning,  Perrault  brought  in  a  ine- 
male  deer,  which  raised  the  spirits  of  the  party,  as  it  secured^ 
them  in  provisions  for  two  days  ;  and  they  trusted  to  sap- 
port  themselves  for  a  third  on  the  skin  which  they  carried 
with  them.  Having  ascended  the  Willingham  Mountains^ 
they  entered  upon  a  rugged  country  intersected  by  deep  ra- 
vines, the  passage  of  which  was  so  difficult  that  they  couJd 
only  make  ten  miles  with  great  fatigue.  The  deer  was  now 
picked  to  the  last  morsel,  and  they  ate  pieces  of  the  singed' 
hide  with  a  little  tripe  de  roche.  At  other  times  this  m«9al 
might  have  sufficed ;  but,  exhausted  by  slender  food  and 
continued  toil,  their  appetites  had  become  ravenous.  Hi  th' 
erto  events  had  been  so  mercifully  ordered  that  in  their  ut- 
most need  some  little  supply  in  the  tripe  de  roche  had  ne  rer 
failed  them ;  but  it  was  the  will  of  God  that  their  confideitce 
should  be  yet  more  strongly  tried ;  for  they  now  entered  upon 
a  level  country  covered  with  snow,  where  even  this  raisei  "a- 
ble  lichen  was  no  longer  to  be  found  ;  -and  a  bed  of  Icela:  td 
moss,  which  was  boiled  for  supper,  proved  so  bitter  th  at 
none  of  the  party,  though  enduring  the  extremities  of  hu  B- 
ger,  could  taste  more  than  a  few  spoonfuls.  Another  di  f- 
tress  now  attacked  them :  the  intensity  of  the  cold  i:  V 
creased,  while  they  became  less  fit  to  endure  it.  The  ir 
blankets  did  not  suffice  to  keep  them  warm,  and  the  slightei  it 
breeze  pierced  through  their  debilitated  frames.     "TI)f 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  410, 411. 


INSUBORDINATION. 


169 


reader,"  sttys  Franklin,  "  will  probably  be  desirous  to  know 
how  we  passed  our  time  in  such  a  comfortless  situation. 
The  first  operation  after  encamping  was  to  thaw  our  frozen 
shoes,  if  a  sufficient  fire  could  be  made  ;  dry  ones  were  then 
put  on.  Each  person  then  wrote  his  notes  of  the  daily  oc- 
curretices,  and  evening  prayers  were  read.  As  soon  as  sup- 
per was  prepared  it  was  eaten,  generally  in  the  dark,  and 
we  went  to  bed  and  kept  up  a  cheerful  conversation  until 
our  blankets  were  thawed  by  the  heat  of  our  bodies,  and  we 
had  gathered  sufficient  warmth  to  enable  us  to  fall  asleep. 
On  many  nights  we  had  not  even  the  luxury  of  going  to  bed 
In  dry  clothes  ;  for,  when  the  fire  was  insufficient  to  dry 
(Mir  shoes,  we  dared  not  venture  to  pull  them  ofT,  lest  they 
flhould  freeze  so  hard  as  to  be  unfit  to  put  on  in  the  morn- 
ing", and  therefore  inconvenient  to  carry."* 

Hunger,  fatigue,  and  disappointment  began  now  to  have 
a  cJBilamitous  effect  upon  the  tempers  of  the  men.  One,  who 
carried  the  canoe,  after  several  severe  falls,  threw  down  his 
burden,  and  obstinately  refused  to  resume  it.  It  was  ac- 
cordingly given  to  another,  who  proved  stronger,  and  pushed 
forward  at  so  rapid  a  rate  that  Mr.  Hood,  whose  weakness 
was  now  extreme,  could  not  keep  up  with  them ;  and  as 
Franklin  attempted  to  pursue  and  stop  them,  the  whole 
party  were  separated.  Dr.  Richardson,  who  had  remained 
behind  to  gather  tripe  de  roche,  joined  him,  and  on  advanc- 
ing they  found  the  men  encamped  among  some  willows, 
where  they  had  found  some  pieces  of  skin  and  a  few  bones 
of  deer  which  had  been  devoured  by  the  wolves.  On  these 
they  had  made  a  meal,  having  burnt  and  pounded  the  bones, 
boiled  the  »jkin,  and  added  their  old  shoes  to  the  mess. 
With  this  no  fault  could  be  found  ;  but  on  questioning  the 
person  to  whom  the  canoe  had  been  intrusted,  it  vr&a  dis- 
covered that  he  had  left  the  boat  behind,  it  having,  as  he 
said,  been  broken  by  a  fall  and  rendered  entirely  useless. 

To  the  infatuated  obstinacy  of  the  men  in  refusing  to  re- 
trace their  steps  and  fetch  it,  even  in  its  shattered  state,  is 
to  be  ascribed  much  of  the  distress  of  their  subsequent 
journey.  Every  argument  and  entreaty  seemed  entirely 
thrown  away  ;  and  they  had  apparently  lost  all  hope  of  being 
preserved.     When  the  hunters,  who  had  been  out  for  some 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  414. 


k 


7 


'V  J    ', 


felil  i 


160 


THE   COPPERMINE   RIVER. 


time,  did  not  make  their  appearance,  they  became  furious  at 
the  idea  of  having  been  deserted,  and  throwing  down  their 
bundles,  declared  they  would  follow  them  at  all  nazaids,  and 
leave  the  weakest  to  keep  up  as  they  best  could.  The  re- 
monstrances of  the  officers  at  length  opened  their  minds  to 
the  madiiess  of  such  a  scheme  ;  and  on  encamping  in  the 
evening,  they  found  some  pines  seven  or  eight  feet  high, 
which  furnished  a  comfortable  fire,  when  they  made  their 
supper  on  tripe  de  roche.  Next  morning  a  herd  of  deer 
came  in  sight,  and  they  killed  five, — a  supply  which,  con- 
sidering the  extremity  of  hunger  and  despair  to  which  they 
were  reduced,  was  especially  providential.  It  was  evident 
that  He,  without  whom  not  a  sparrow  falls  to  the  ground, 
was  with  them  in  their  extremity  of  distress  ;  and,  casting 
themselves  upon  his  care,  every  heart  expanded  with  hope 
and  gratitude. 

The  Canadians  now  earnestly  petitioned  for  a  day's  rest. 
They  pleaded  their  recent  sufferings,  and  that  the  enjoy- 
ment of  two  substantial  meals,  after  eight  days*  famme, 
would  enable  them  to  press  forward  more  vigorously.  The 
flesh,  the  skins,  and  even  the  stomachs  of  the  deer  were 
accordingly  equally  divided  among  the  party,  and  some  of 
them  suffered  severely  from  too  free  an  indulgence  in  the 
use  of  this  food  after  so  long  an  abstinence.  Next  morning 
the  party  resumed  their  journey,  and  after  a  walk  of  three 
miles  came  to  the  Coppermine  River.  Its  current  was 
strong,  but  with  a  canoe  there  would  have  been  no  difficulty 
in  crossing  ;  and  the  reckless  folly  of  the  men  in  abandon- 
ing their  only  means  of  transport  was  now  brought  strongly 
to  their  mind.  No  ford  could  be  discovered,  and  the  plan 
was  suggested  of  framing  a  vessel  of  willows,  covered  with 
the  canvass  of  the  tent ;  but  the  most  experienced  boatmen 
declared  the  willows  were  too  small  to  bear  the  weight ;  and 
no  pines  could  be  found.  Nothing  remained  but  to  resume 
their  march  along  the  borders  of  the  lake ;  and  looking  out 
eagerly,  but  in  vain,  for  some  fordable  place,  they  encamped 
at  the  east  end.  Anxious  to  adopt  every  possible  means 
for  preserving  the  party,  Franklin  sent  Mr.  Back  forward 
with  the  interpreters  to  hunt.  He  was  directed  to  halt  at 
the  first  pines  and  construct  a  raft ;  and  if  his  hunters  had 
killed  animals  sufficient  to  provision  them,  he  was  to  cross 
immediately  and  send  the  Indians  with  supplies  of  meat  to 
the  party  behind. 


k.i- 


A  RAFT  CONSTRUCTED. 


161 


lurioufl  at 
own  their 
KaidS)  and 
The  re- 
■  minds  to 
ing  in  the 
feet  high, 
nade  their 
rd  of  deer 
hich,  con- 
vhichthey 
as  evident 
tie  ground, 
id,  casting 
with  hope 

day's  rest, 
the  enjoy- 
^s*  famine, 
usly.    The 
deer  were 
nd  some  of 
jence  in  the 
ixt  morning 
ilk  of  three 
urrent  was 
o  difl&culty 
ill  ahandon- 
ht  strongly 
id  the  plan 
ivered  with 
d  boatmen 
leight ;  and 
t  to  resume 
jlooking  out 
encamped 
ible  means 
[ck  forward 
to  halt  at 
[outers  had 
as  to  cross 
of  meat  to 


At  this  time  it  was  discovered  that  two  of  the  men  had 
stolen  part  of  the  officers'  provision,  though  it  had  been 
doled  out  with  the  strictest  impartiality,  and  they  saw  their 
leaders  suffering  more  acutely  than  themselves.  To  punish 
this  was  impossible,  except  by  the  threat  that  they  should  for- 
feit their  wages,  which  produced  little  effect.  Despondency 
had  deeply  seized  upon  the  party,  and  in  the  morning  strict 
orders  could  not  prevent  them  from  straggling  in  search  of 
the  remains  of  animals ;  in  consequence  of  which  much 
time  was  lost  in  halting,  and  ammunition  in  firing  guns  to 
collect  them.  The  snow,  however,  had  disappeared,  and 
pressing  forward  with  more  alacrity,  they  came  to  an  arm 
of  the  lake  running  north-east.  The  idea  of  making  the 
long  circuit  round  it  was  distressing,  and  having  halted  to 
consult  what  was  to  be  done,  some  one  discovered  in  a  cliff 
the  carcass  of  a  deer  which  had  fallen  into  a  chasm.  It 
was  quite  putrid,  but  even  in  that  state  appeared  delicious, 
and  a  fire  being  kindled,  a  large  portion  was  rapidly  de- 
voured ;  while  the  men,  cheered  by  this  unexpected  break- 
&st,  regained  their  confidence,  and  requested  leave  to  return 
to  the  rapid,  insisting  on  the  practicability  of  making  a  suf- 
ficiently strong  rafl  of  willows,  though  they  had  formerly 
pronounced  it  impossible.  Their  advice  was  followed  ;  and 
having  sent  off  Augustus,  one  of  the  interpreters,  to  inform 
Mr.  Back  of  this  change  of  plan,  they  commenced  their 
retrograde  movement,  and  encamped  at  night  in  a  deep  val- 
ley among  some  large  willows,  where  they  supped  on  the 
remains  of  the  putrid  deer. 

Next  day  they  regained  the  rapids,  commenced  cutting 
willows  for  the  rafl,  and  a  reward  of  300  livres  was  prom- 
ised by  Franklin  to  the  person  who  should  convey  a  line 
across  the  river  strong  enough  to  manage  the  rafl  and  trans- 
port the  party.  .  The  willows  when  cut  were  bound  into 
fagots,  and  the  work  completed ;  but  the  greenness  of  the 
wood  rendered  it  heavy,  and  incapable  of  supporting  more 
than  one  man  at  a  time.  Still  they  hoped  to  be  able  to 
cross ;  but  all  depended  on  getting  a  line  carried  to  the  oppo- 
site bank,  through  a  current  130  yards  wide,  strong,  deep, 
and  intensely  cold.  Belanger  and  Bennit,  the  two  strongest 
men  of  the  party,  repeatedly  attempted  to  take  the  rafl  over, 
but  for  want  of  oars  were  driven  back.  The  tent-staves 
were  then  tied  together,  and  form^  a  strong  pole ;  but  it 

O  2 


■4    \ 


Jf 


f!       h\ 


162 


ACCUMULATED   SUFFERING 0. 


was  not  long  enough  to  reach  the  bottom  even  at  a  short 
distance  from  the  shore.  Dr.  Richardson  next  produced  a 
paddle  he  had  brought  from  the  coast,  but  which  was  found 
not  powerful  enough  to  impel  the  raft  against  a  strong 
breeze.  The  failure  of  every  attempt  occasioned  a  deep 
despondency^  which  threatened  to  have  the  most  fatal  effects, 
when  Dr.  Richardson,  with  a  disinterested  courage  that 
made  him  forget  his  own  weakness,  threw  off  his  upper 
garments,  and  attempted  to  swim  with  a  rope  to  the  oppo- 
site bank.  Plunging  in  with  the  line  round  Iiis  middle  he 
at  first  made  some  v  ^y  but  the  extreme  cold  was  too  much 
for  him,  and  in  a  few  n^oments  his  arms  became  powerless ; 
still,  being  an  expert  swimmer,  he  not  only  kept  himself 
afloat,  but  made  way  by  turning  on  his  back  and  using  his 
legs,  so  that  he  had  nearly  reached  the  other  side,  when,  to 
the  inexpressible  anguish  of  those  who  watched  his  progress, 
his  limbs  became  benumbed,  and  he  sank.  All  hands  now 
hauled  on  the  line,  and  drew  him  ashore  almost  lifeless ;  but 
placed  before  a  fire  of  willows,  and  stripped  of  his  wet 
clothes,  he  gradually  revived  enough  to  give  directions  as  to 
the  mode  of  treating  him.  His  thin  and  emaciated  limbs, 
which  were  now  exposed  to  view,  produced  an  involuntary 
exclamation  of  compassion  and  surprise : — "  Ah,  que  nous 
sommes  maigres !"  said  the  French  Canadians ;  but  it  is 
probable  that  few  of  them  would  have  presented  so  gaunt 
and  attenuated  an  appearance  as  the  brave  and  excellent 
man  who  had  thus  nearly  fallen  a  sacrifice  to  his  humanity, 
for  it  was  discovered  about  this  time  that  the  hunters  were 
in  the  practice  of  withholding  the  game  which  they  shot, 
and  devouring  it  in  secret.^ 

Soon  after  this  the  party  were  joined  by  Mr.  Back,  who 
had  traced  the  lake  about  fifleen  miles  farther  up  without 
discovering  any  place  where  it  was  possible  to  get  across ; 
and  towards  evening  Credit,  who  had  been  out  hunting,  re- 
turned without  any  game  of  his  own  killing ;  but  brought 
the  antlers  and  back-bone  of  a  deer  shot  during  the  summer. 
These  relics  had  been  already  picVed  clean  by  the  wolves 
and  birds  of  prey,  but  the  marrow  remained  in  the  spine  ; 
and  though  completely  putrid,  and  so  acrid  as  to  excoriate 
the  lips.  It  was  not  the  less  acceptable.    The  bones  were^ 


*  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  423, 424. 


THE  niVER  CROSSED. 


168 


rendered  friable  by  burning,  and  the  whole  eagerly  devoured. 
St.  Germain,  one  of  the  voyagers,  now  suggested  that  a 
cfinoe  might  be  made  of  the  painted  canvass  used  to  wrap 
up  the  bedding,  and  offered  to  construct  it  upon  a  frame- 
work of  willows.  For  this  purpose  he  and  Adam  removed 
to  a  clump  of  willows,  while  another  party  proceeded  to  the 
spot  where  they  had  encamped  on  the  25th,  to  collect  pitch 
among  the  small  pines  to  pay  over  the  seams.  A  snow- 
storm at  this  moment  came  on,  and  the  Huiferings  of  the 
men  hourly  increasing,  a  deep  gloom  settled  upon  their 
spirits.  Mr.  Hood  was  by  this  time  reduced  to  a  perfect 
shadow;  Mr.  Back  required  the  support  of  a  stick;  Dr. 
Richardson  was  lame ;  and  Franklin  so  feeble,  that,  after  a 
struggle  of  three  hours,  he  found  himself  utterly  unable  to 
reach  the  spot  where  St.  Germain  was  at  work,  a  distance 
of  only  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  and  returned  completely 
exhausted.  The  Canadian  voyagers  had  now  fallen  into  a 
state  of  despondency  which  bordered  on  despair,  and,  indif- 
ferent to  their  fate,  refused  to  make  the  slightest  exertion. 
The  officers  were  unable  to  undergo  the  labour  of  gathering 
the  tripe  de  roche,  and  Samandr^,  the  cook,  sullenly  de- 
clined continuinor  his  labours.  At  this  miserable  crisis  the 
conduct  of  John  Hepburn,  an  English  sailor,  was  especially 
admirable,  presenting  a  striking  contrast  to  the  gloomy  sel- 
fishness of  the  Canadians.  His  firm  reliance  on  the  watch- 
ful goodness  of  God,  and  a  cheerful  resignation  to  his  will, 
never  for  a  moment  forsook  him ;  and,  animated  by  this 
blessed  principle,  his  strength  appeared  to  be  preserved  as 
the  means  of  saving  the  party.  He  collected  the  tripe  de 
roche  for  the  officers*  mess,  cooked  and  served  it  out,  and 
showed  the  most  indefatigable  zeal  in  his  i^fforts  tc  alleviate 
their  sufferings. 

A  gleam  of  hope  at  length  arose  when  St.  Germain  com* 
pleted  the  canoe.  It  was  impossible  not  to  feel  that  their 
last  chance  of  escape  seemed  to  hang  upon  this  little  bark  ; 
•—would  it  prove  sufficient  for  its  purpose  ?  or,  constructed 
of  such  wretched  materials,  would  it  not  at  once  sink  to  the 
bottom  1  Amid  this  conflict  of  contending  emotions  it  was 
launched  on  the  river,  and  every  heart  bounded  with  exulta- 
tion when  it  floated,  and  St.  Germain  transported  himself  to 
the  opposite  side.  It  was  drawn  back,  and,  one  by  one,  the 
whole  party  were  ferried  over,  though,  from  the  leaky  state 


r 


w 


.i 


I. 

n 


■^1 


:m 


m '  / 


164 


■LOW   PROQRESS. 


of  the  little  bark,  their  garments  and  bedding  were  com- 
pletely drenched.  Franklin  immediately  despatched  Mr* 
Back  and  three  men  to  push  on  to  Fort  Enterprise  in  search 
of  the  Indians,  while  he  himself  followed  with  the  rest. 

Nothing  could  exceed  the  joy  of  the  Canadian  voyagers 
at  this  unlooked-for  deliverance.  Their  spirits  rose  from 
the  deepest  despondency  into  tumultuous  exultation.  They 
shook  the  officers  by  the  hand,  cried  out  that  their  worst 
difficulties  were  at  an  end,  and  expressed  a  confident  hope 
of  being  able  to  reach  Fort  Enterprise  in  the  course  of  a 
few  days, — a  boisterous  and  sudden  confidence,  to  which  the 
silent  gratitude  and  quiet  resolution  of  the  pious  Hepburn 
presented  a  striking  contrast. 

Their  tents  and  bedclothes  were  so  much  frozen,  and  the 
men,  who  had  kindled  a  small  fire,  so  weary,  that  it  was 
eight  in  the  morning  before  the  bundles  were  packed,  and 
the  party  set  forward.  They  travelled  in  single  files,  each 
at  a  small  distance  from  his  neighbour.  Mr.  Hood,  who 
was  now  nearly  exhausted,  was  obliged  to  walk  at  a  gentle 
pace  in  the  rear.  Dr.  Richardson  kindly  keeping  beside  him ; 
while  Franklin  led  the  foremost  men,  that  he  might  make 
them  halt  occasionally  till  the  stragglers  came  up.  Credit, 
hitherto  one  of  their  most  active  hunters,  became  lamentably 
weak  from  the  effects  of  tripe  de  roche  on  his  constitution, 
and  Vaillant,  from  the  same  cause,  was  getting  daily  more 
emaciated.  They  only  advanced  six  miles  during  the  day, 
and  at  night  satisfied  the  cravings  of  hunger  by  a  small 
quantity  of  tripe  de  roche  mixed  up  with  some  scraps  of 
roasted  leather.  During  the  night  the  wind  increased  to  a 
strong  gale,  which  continuing  next  day,  besides  being  pierc- 
ingly cold,  filled  the  atmosphere  with  a  thick  snow«drifl. 
Having  boiled  and  eaten  the  remains  of  their  old  shoes,  and, 
every  shred  of  leather  which  could  be  picked  up,  they  set 
forward  at  nine  over  bleak  hills  separated  by  equally  barren 
valleys. 

In  this  manner  they  journeyed  till  noon,  not  without 
much  straggling  and  frequent  halts,  at  which  time  Saman- 
dr^  came  up  with  the  melancholy  news  that  Credit  and  Vail- 
lant had  dropped  down,  and  were  utterly  unable  to  proceed. 
Br.  Richardson  went  back,  and  discovering  Vaillant  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  in  the  rear,  assured  him  that  a  fire  was 
IdndkBd  a  little  way  on,  and  that  he  would  recovMr  if  hf  could 


^ 


i^ 


TWO    MEN    LEFT    IN   THE    SNOW. 


165 


Ten  com* 
t5hed  Mf. 
in  search 
B  rest, 
voyagers 
rose  from 
n.    They 
tieir  worst 
dent  hope 
Durse  of  a 
which  the 
B  Hepburn 

ti,  and  the 
hat  it  was 
acked,  and 
files,  each 
Hood,  who 
at  a  gentle 
>eside  him ; 
night  make 
p.     Credit, 
lamentably 
>nBtitution, 
daily  more 
ig  the  day, 
by  a  small 
scraps  of 
■eased  to  a 
|eing  pierc- 
moW'drift* 
shoes,  and 
I,  they  set 
lly  barren 

bt  without 

(e  Saman- 

and  Vail- 

proceed. 

mt  about 

la  fire  was 

i^^cpuU 


but  reach  it ;  the  poor  fellow  struggled  up  on  his  feet,  and 
feebly  tried  to  advance,  but  fell  down  every  step  in  the  deep 
snow.     Leaving  him,  Dr.  Richardson  retraced   his  Rteps 
about  a  mile  farther  in  a  fruitless  search  for  Credit.     In  re- 
turning he  passed  Vaillant,  who  had  fallen  down,  utterly 
unable  to  renew  his  efforts  to  rejoin  the  party.     Belanger 
went  back  to  carry  his  burden  and  assiBt  him  to  the  fire  ; 
but  the  cold  had  produced  such  a  numbness  that  he  could 
not  speak  or  make  the  slightest  exertion.     The  stoutest  of 
the  party  were  now  implored  to  make  a  last  effort  to  trans- 
port him  to  the  fire,  but  declared  themselves  utterly  unable 
for  the  task.     They  eagerly  requested  leave  to  throw  down 
their  loads,  and  proceed  with  the  utmost  speed  to  Fort  En- 
terprise,— a  scheme  projected  in  the  despair  of  the  moment, 
and  which  must  have  brought  destruction  upon  the  whole. 
Matters  had  now  reached  a  dreadful  crisis  ;  it  was  neces- 
sary to  come  to  an  immediate  decision  regarding  their  ulti- 
mate measures,  and  a  plan  proposed  by  Mr.  Hood  and  Dr. 
Richardson  was  adopted.     These  gentlemen  consented  to 
remain  with  a  single  attendant  at  the  first  spot  where  there 
were  sufficient  firewood  and  tripe  de  roche  for  ten  days* 
consumption,  while  Franklin  and  the  rest  were  to  proceed 
with  all  expedition  to  Fort  Enterprise,  and  send  immediate 
assistance.     This  scheme  promised  to  relieve  them  of  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  their  burdens, — for  one  of  the  tents  and 
various  other  articles  were  to  be  left;  and  it  gave  poor 
Credit  and  Vaillant  a  fairer  opportunity,  should  they  revive, 
of  regaining  their  companions.     On  the  resolution  being 
communicated  to  the  men,  they  were  cheered  with  the  pros- 
pect of  an  alleviation  of  their  misery,  and  pressed  forward 
m  search  of  a  convenient  spot  for  the  proposed  separation. 
Near  nightfall  they  encamped  under  the  lee  of  a  hi  1  among 
some  willows,  which  furnished  a  small  fire,  but  not  suffi- 
ciently strong  to  thaw  their  frozen  clothes ;  and  no  tripe  de 
roche  having  been  found  during  the  day,  they  lay  down  hun- 
gry, cold,  and  full  of  the  gloomiest  appreheuHions,  while 
sleep  fled  from  their  eyelids,  and  the  images  of  their  dying 
companions  rose  before  their  imagination  in  colours  which 
made  them  shudder  for  a  fate  that  might  so  soon  become 
their  own.*    Next  morning  the  weather  providentially  was 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  431, 432. 


If 


'  I 


r^ 


166 


ritANKLIN   PUSHES   FORWARD. 


h 


« 


mild,  and  setting  out  at  nine  they  arrived  towards  noon  at  a 
thicket  of  willows,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  some  rocka 
bearing  a  pretty  full  supply  of  tripe  de  roche.  Here  Dr. 
Richardson  and  Mr.  Hood  determined  to  remain.  The  tent 
was  pitched,  a  barrel  of  ammunition  and  other  articles  were 
deposited,  and  Hepburn,  who  volunteered  the  service,  was 
appointed  to  continue  with  them.  The  rest  of  the  party 
now  had  only  to  carry  a  single  tent,  the  ammunition,  and 
the  officers*  journals,  in  addition  to  their  own  clothes  and  a 
single  blanket  for  Captain  Franklin.  When  all  was  ready, 
the  whole  party  united  in  thanksgiving  and  prayers  to  AI« 
mighty  God  for  their  mutual  preservation,  and  separated 
with  the  melancholy  reflection  that  it  might  in  all  probability 
be  the  last  time  they  should  ever  again  meet  in  this  world. 
On  leaving  their  friends  Captain  Franklin  and  his  party 
descended  into  a  more  level  country  ;  but  the  snow  lay  so 
deep,  and  they  were  so  little  able  to  wade  through  it  that 
they  encamped,  after  a  painful  march  of  only  four  miles  and 
a  half,  in  which  Belanger  and  Michel,  an  Iroquois,  were  left 
far  behind,  yet  still  struggling  forward.  In  the  evening  they 
came  in  dreadfully  exhausted,  and  Belanger,  till  now  one 
of  the  strongest  of  the  party,  could  not  refrain  from  tears 
as  he  declared  he  was  totally  unable  to  proceed,  and  im- 
plored permission  to  return  to  Dr.  Richardson  and  Mr.  Hood. 
Michel  made  the  same  request,  and  it  was  agreed  that  they 
should  do  so.  The  cold  of  the  night  was  excessive,  and 
the  men  were  so  weak  that  they  could  not  raise  the  tent ; 
from  its  weight  it  was  impossible  to  transport  it  from  place 
to  place,  and  it  was  cut  up,  the  canvass  serving  them  for  a 
covering ;  but,  though  they  lay  close  together,  the  intense 
frost  deprived  them  of  sleep.  Having  no  tripe  de  roche, 
they  had  supped  upon  an  infusion  of  the  Labrador  tea-plant, 
with  a  few  morsels  of  burnt  leather.  Michel  and  Belanger, 
being  apparently  more  exhausted  in  the  morning  than  over- 
night, were  left,  while  the  rest  moved  forward.  After  a  very 
short  progress  Perrault  was  attacked  with  a  fit  of  dizziness ; 
but,  on  halting  a  little,  again  proposed  to  proceed.  In  ten 
minutes,  however,  he  sank  down,  and,  weeping  aloud,  de- 
clared his  total  inability  to  go  on.  He  was  accordingly  ad- 
vised to  rejoin  Michel  and  Belanger, — a  proposal  in  which 
he  acquiesced.  These  examples  of  the  total  failure  of  the 
strongest  in  the  party  had  a  very  unfavourable  effect  on  the 


I 


ARRIVAL   AT    FORT   ENTERPRISE. 


167 


lon  at  a 
>   rocks 
ere  Dr. 
he  tent 
es  were 
ce,  was 
e  party 
ion,  and 
)s  and  a 
8  ready, 
rs  to  Al- 
jparated 
obability 
,8  world, 
lis  party 
IV  lay  so 
;h  it  that 
(liles  and 
were  left 
ling  they 
now  one 
om  tears 

and  im- 
Ir.  Hood, 
that  they 
sive,  and 

;he  tent ; 
jom  place 

lem  for  a 
intense 

le  roche, 

lea-plant, 
elanger, 
an  over- 

er  a  very 

|izziness ; 
In  ten 

[loud,  de- 

ingly  ad- 

in  which 

•ft  of  the 

!t  on  the 


M 


spirits  of  the  rest,  and  the  exertion  of  wading  through  the 
snow  and  crossing  a  lake  on  the  ice,  where  they  were  fre- 
quently blown  down,  was  so  severe,  that  Fontano,  after 
having  repeatedly  fallen,  piteously  complained  that  he  was 
utterly  unable  to  go  farther.  Being  not  two  miles  from  the 
others,  it  was  thought  best  that  he  also  should  attempt  to 
rejoin  them  ;*  and  as  he  was  much  beloved,  the  parting  was 
very  distressing.  They  watched  him  for  some  time,  and 
were  comforted  by  seeing  that,  though  his  progress  was 
very  slow,  he  kept  his  feet  better  than  before. 

The  whole  party  was  now  reduced  to  five  persons.  Cap- 
tain  Franklin,  Adam,  Peltier,  Benoit,  and  Samandr^,  the 
interpreter  Augustus  having  pressed  forward  by  himself 
during  the  late  frequent  halts.  They  made  that  day  only 
four  miles  and  a  half,  and  encamped  for  the  night  under  a 
rock,  supping  again  on  an  infusion  of  the  Labrador  tea-plant 
and  some  shreds  of  boiled  leather.  The  evening  was  com- 
paratively mild,  the  breeze  light,  and  having  the  comfort  of 
a  fire,  they  enjoyed  some  sleep.  This  was  of  infinite  advan- 
tage ;  it  ^-ave  them  new  spirits,  which  were  further  invigo- 
rated by  i  breakfast  of  tripe  de  roche,  this  being  the  fourth 
day  since  they  had  a  regular  meal.  On  reaching  Marten 
Lake  they  found  it  frozen  over, — a  circumstance  which  they 
knew  would  enable  them  to  walk  upon  the  ice  straight  to 
Fort  Enterprise. 

It  may  be  easily  imagined  what  were  the  sensations  of 
the  party  in  approaching  the  spot  which  they  trusted  would 
be  the  end  of  all  their  toils  and  privations.  From  the  ar- 
rangements previously  made,  it  was  judged  certain  that 
they  would  here  find  relief,  and  be  able  to  send  assistance 
to  their  unfortunate  companions.  It  was  a  spot  where  they 
had  enjoyed,  at  a  former  period  of  the  expedition,  t'le  great- 
est comfort ;  but  it  was  possible,  though  they  scarcely  per- 
mitted themselves  to  contemplate  so  dreadful  an  idea,  that 
circumstances  might  have  occurred  to  defeat  their  present 
expectations.  On  approaching  the  house  their  minds  were 
strongly  agitated  between  hope  and  fear,  and,  contrary  to 
their  usual  custom,  they  advanced  in  silence.  At  length 
they  reached  it,  and  their  worst  apprehensions  were  realized. 
It  was  completely  desolate.     No  provisions  had  been  depos- 

*  FmukUn's  Journey,  p.  i90, 4S7. 


If 


I 
i  ■ 


I* 


, 

iVP^ 

1 

I'By 

i  ■ 

■.  ■■ 

(1>  PHp 

: 

5 

wi  ftfti] 

f 

wWm 

1  '    'tYma 

\ 

^11^ 

168 


THE   FORT   FOUND  DESERTED. 


;l 


ited — ^no  trace  of  Indians  could  be  discovered — ^no  letter  lay 
th-3re  from  Mr.  Wentzel  to  inform  them  where  the  Indians 
might  be  found.  On  entering,  a  mute  despair  seized  the 
party.  They  gazed  on  the  cold  hearth,  comfortless  walls, 
and  broken  sashes,  through  which  the  wind  and  snow  pene- 
trated, and,  awakening  to  a  full  sense  of  the  horrors  of  their 
situation,  burst  into  tears.*  On  recovering  a  little,  and 
looking  round  with  more  attention,  a  note  was  found  from 
Mr.  Back,  stating  that  having  two  days  before  this  reached 
the  house,  he  had  proceeded  in  search  of  the  Indians  ;  but 
it  described  his  party  as  so  debilitate<J  that  it  was  doubtful 
whether  they  would  be  able  to  reach  Fort  Providence.  The 
sufferings  endured  by  this  meritorious  officer  and  his  little 
party,  one  of  whom  was  frozen  to  death,  were  equally  dread- 
ful with  those  which  fell  to  the  share  of  his  excellent  com- 
mander.! 

The  poor  sufferers,  thus  grievously  disappointed,  now 
examined  the  deserted  habitation  for  the  means  of  subsist- 
ence, and  found  several  deer-skins  thrown  away  during  their 
former  residence  at  the  fort.  The  heaps  of  ashes  were 
carefully  raked,  and  a  considerable  collection  of  bones  dis- 
covered, which  were  hoarded  up  for  the  purpose  of  being 
pounded  and  manufactured  into  soup.  The  parchment 
originally  employed  instead  of  glass  had  been  torn  from  the 
windows,  and  the  place  was  exposed  to  all  the  inclemency  of 
an  arctic  winter ;  but  they  succeeded  in  filling  the  sashes 
with  loose  boards,  and  as  the  temperature  of  the  outer  air 
was  now  from  15°  to  20°  below  zero,  this  precaution  was 
especially  necessary.  To  procure  water  they  melted  the 
frozen  lumps  of  snow,  and  the  flooring  of  the  neighbouring 
apartment  was  broken  up  for  fuel. 

Having  completed  these  arrangements,  they  assembled 
round  the  fire,  and  were  busy  singeing  the  hair  off  a  deer- 
skin, when  they  were  cheered  by  the  entrance  of  the  inter- 
preter, who  had  made  his  way  to  the  fort  by  a  different  route, 
through  a  country  he  had  never  traversed  before.  Though 
by  far  the  strongest  of  the  party,  he  was  now  so  enfeebled 
by  famine  that  he  could  not  follow  two  deer  which  he  had 
seen  on  his  way.     Next  morning  there  was  a  heavy  gale 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  438, 439. 

t  Ste  Mr.  Back's  interesting  Narrative,  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  477. 


M 


FRANKLIN   ATTEMPTS    TO    PROCEED. 


169 


iter  lay 
Indians 
zed  the 
18  walla, 
w  pene- 
of  their 
tie,  and 
nd  from 
reached 
ins  ;  but 
doubtful 
;e.     The 
his  little 
lly  dread- 
lent  com- 

ited,  now 
if  subsist- 
ring  their 
shes  were 
)ones  dis- 
i  of  being 
)archnient 
I  from  the 
jmency  of 
,he  sashes 
outer  air 
ution  was 
lelted  the 
hbouring 

issembled 
)ff  a  deer- 
Ithe  inter- 
lent  route, 
Though 
I  enfeebled 
^h  he  had 
leavy  gale 


p.  477. 


from  the  south-east,  and  the  snow  drifted  so  thick  that  no 
one  ventured  abroad.  On  the  evening  of  the  succeeding 
day,  a  figure  covered  with  ice,  benumbed  with  cold,  and 
almost  speechless,  staggered  into  the  house  :  it  was  one  of 
the  Canadians  who  had  been  despatched  with  a  note  by  Mr. 
Back,  and  having  fallen  into  a  rapid,  narrowly  escaped  being 
drowned.*  To  change  his  dress,  wrap  him  in  warm 
blankets,  and  pour  some  soup  over  his  throat,  was  their  first 
care ;  and  after  a  little  he  revived  enough  to  answer  the 
anxious  questions  with  which  he  was  assailed.  From  his 
replies  but  little  comfort  was  derived.  Mr.  Back  had  seen 
no  trace  of  the  Indians,  and  the  messenger's  recollection 
appeared  confused  with  regard  to  the  part  of  the  country 
where  he  hivl  left  his  officer,  who,  as  he  stated,  intended  to 
proceed  to  the  spot  where  the  Indian  chief  Akaitcho  had 
encamp«d  last  summer, — a  distance  of  about  thirty  miles. 
Thither  h*  proposed  to  follow  when  he  was  a  little  recruited  ; 
and,  though  dissuaded  from  the  attempt,  persisted  that  as 
the  track  was  beaten  he  would  e  able  to  make  it  out,  and 
to  convey  intelligence  of  the  situation  of  Captain  Franklin's 
party.  Accordingly,  the  fifth  day  after  his  arrival,  he  de- 
parted from  the  fort  with  a  small  supply  of  singed  hide. 

Not  long  after,  Adam,  one  of  the  five  men  who  now  re- 
mained with  Captain  Franklin,  became  so  ill  that  he  was 
utterly  incapable  of  moving,  and  it  was  discovered  that  he 
had  been  for  some  time  afflicted  with  (edematous  sw  ellings  in 
various  parts  of  his  body,  which  he  had  hitherto  gf  i>^roasly 
concealed,  from  a  wish  not  to  impede  the  n>>)'  eme  i>  >  of  his 
companions.  As  it  was  impossible  for  this  poor  man  to 
travel,  it  was  necessary  to  abandon  the  original  ir  Mention  of 
proceeding  with  the  whole  party  to  Fort  P?*'^videnc3,  and 
Peltier  and  Samandre,  who  were  in  almost  a^  weak  a  st.ite, 
having  expressed  a  wish  to  remain  with  Adan»,  Captain 
Franklin,  along  with  Augustus  and  Benoit,  determined  to 
press  on  to  P^ort  Providence,  and  to  send  relief  to  their  com- 
panions by  the  first  party  of  Indians  they  should  meet. 

Having  accordingly  given  directions  regarding  the  journals 
and  charts  which  were  left  in  their  custody,  and  the  best 
mode  of  forwarding  succour  to  Mr.  Hood  and  Dr.  Richardson, 
Franklin  set  forward  with  his  two  attendants  ;  but  so  feeblf 

*  rrankJin>  Journey,  p.  440,  441, 


y. 

V.i 


170         FRANKLIN   JOINED   BY    HIS    FRIENDS, 

had  they  become,  that  the  distance  accomplished  in  sir 
hours  was  only  fob.  miles.  They  encamped  on  the  borders 
of  Round  Rock  Lake,  and,  unable  to  find  any  tripe  de  roche, 
made  their  supper  upon  fried  deer-skin.  The  night  proved 
intensely  cold,  and  although  they  crept  as  close  to  each  other 
as  possible,  they  shivered  in  every  limb,  and  the  wind 
pierced  through  their  famished  frames.*  Next  morning  was 
mild,  and  they  set  out  early,  but  had  scarce  proceeded  a  few 
yards,  when  Franklin  fell  between  two  rocks  and  broke  his 
snow-shoes,  an  accident  which  incapacitated  him  from  keep- 
ing up  with  Benoit  and  Augustus.  In  a  very  short  time 
his  attempt  to  press  forward  completely  exhausted  him  ;  and 
as  the  only  hope  of  preserving  the  lives  of  the  party 
appeared  to  rest  on  their  speedily  reaching  Fort  Providence, 
he  determined,  rather  than  retard  them,  to  retrace  his  steps 
to  the  house  while  they  proceedtd  for  assistance.  Calling 
a  moment's  halt,  he  addressed  one  note  to  Mr.  Back,  re- 
questing an  immediate  supply  of  meat  from  Rein-deer  Lake, 
and  another  to  the  commandant  at  Fort  Providence,  v  ith 
urgent  entreaties  for  assistance.  This  done,  Augustus  and 
Benoit  resumed  their  journey,  and  Franklin  returned  to  the 
house. 

On  arriving  he  foand  Adam,  Samandr^,  and  PeUier  still 
alive  ;  but  ihe  two  first,  v/hose  minds  seemed  quite  enfeebled, 
could  not  be  prevailed  on  to  leave  their  bed,  and  their  nervous 
weakness  was  so  great  that  they  scarcely  ceased  shedding 
tears  all  day.  It  was  even  with  difficulty  that  they  were 
prevailed  on  to  take  any  nourishment ;  and  the  labour  of 
cutting  and  carrying  fuel,  gathering  the  tripe  de  roche,  and 
cooking  fell  entirely  upon  Franklin  and  Peltier.  The  frost 
was  now  so  severe  that  it  was  evident  this  lichen  would 
soon  be  bound  up  in  ice,  and  as  their  strength  daily  declined, 
every  exertion  became  irksome.  When  once  seated,  it  re- 
quired a  painful  eJEfort  to  rise  up,  and  not  unfrequently  they 
had  to  lift  each  other  from  their  chairs.  This  miserable 
condition  could  not  last  long.  Peltier  soon  became  almost 
incapable  of  holding  the  hatchet ;  the  bone-soup  had  grown 
so  acrid  as  to  corrode  the  inside  of  their  mouths ;  the  tripe 
de  roche,  covered  with  ice,  defied  all  efforts  to  detach  it  from 
the  rock ;  and  though  the  rein-deer  sported  on  the  banks  of 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  444. 


I 


>d  in  SIT 
le  borders 
de  roche, 
ht  proved 
each  other 

the  wind 
>rning  was 
jiled  a  few 
1  broke  his 
from  keep- 
short  time 
1  him  ;  and 

the  party 
Providei'ce, 
;e  his  steps 
e.  Calling 
r.  Back,  re- 
-deer  Lake, 
dence,  v  ith 
igustus  and 
iirned  to  the 

Peltier  still 
,e  enfeebled, 
lieir  nervous 
id  shedding 
It  they  were 
le  labour  of 
roche,  and 
The  frost 
ichen  would 
lily  declined, 
leated,  it  re- 
^uently  they 
s  miserable 
ame  almost 
had  grown 
s ;  the  tripe 
itach  it  from 
he  banks  of 


I. 


DR.    RICHARDSON   AND   HEPBURN. 


171 


the  river,  no  one  had  h  to  go  after  them,  or  to  hold  a 

gun  so  steadily  as  to  o  an  aim 

Still  the  hopes  and  iieerfulness  of  Franklin  did  not  de- 
sert him.  From  his  knowledge  of  the  places  mostly  frequented 
at  that  season  by  the  Indians,  he  was  sanguine  as  to  the 
likelihood  of  their  being  found ;  and  their  speedy  arrival 
formed  a  constant  subject  of  conversation.  At  length,  on 
the  evening  of  the  29th,  when  talking  of  this  long  looked- 
for  relief,  and  sitting  round  the  fire,  Peltier  suddenly  leaped 
up  and  uttered  a  joyful  exclam;,  an,  imagining  he  heard 
the  bustle  of  the  Indians  in  the  adjoining  room.  It  was  not 
the  Indians,  however,  but  Dr.  Richardson  and  Hepburn, 
who  came  in  each  carrying  his  bundle.  The  meeting  was 
one  of  ningled  joy  and  sorrow.  Poor  Hood's  absence  was 
instantly  perceived,  and  their  saddest  anticipations  were 
confirmed  by  Dr.  Richardson  declaring  that  this  young  officer 
and  Michel  were  dead,  and  that  neither  Perrault  nor  Fon- 
tano  had  reached  the  tent,  or  been  heard  of.  Such  news 
could  not  fail  to  create  despondency.  All  were  shocked  at 
the  emaciated  countenances  and  hollow  voices  of  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson and  his  companion,  while  Captain  Franklin  and  his 
fellow-sufferers,  having  become  gradually  accustomed  to  the 
dreadful  effects  of  famine  upon  each  other,  were  not  aw  re 
that,  to  the  eyes  of  their  friends  who  had  just  arrived,  trie 
alteration  upon  themselves  was  equally  melancholy.  "  The 
doctor,"  says  Franklin,  "particularly  remarked  the  sepul- 
chral tone  of  our  voices,  which  he  requested  us  to  make 
more  cheerful  if  possible,  not  aware  that  his  own  partook 
of  the  same  key."* 

The  arriv-vl  of  these  friends,  however,  was  soon  attended 
with  a  favourable  change.  Though  greatly  reduced,  they 
were  still  in  a  better  condition  than  their  unfortuna;ue  com- 
panions, and  it  was  not  long  till  Hepburn  shot  a  partridge. 
Dr.  Richardson  speedily  tore  off  the  feathers,  and  having 
held  it  for  a  few  minutes  at  the  fire  divided  it  into  six 
pieces :  Franklin  and  his  companions  ravenously  devoured 
their  portions,  "  being  the  first  morsel  of  flesh  that  any  of 
them  had  tasted  for  thirty-one  days,"  and  Dr.  Richardson 
ch«ered  them  with  the  prospect  that  Hepburn  might  pos- 
fiiblj  bring  in  a  deer  in  his  next  expedition.     The  counsels 


*  Fratiklin's  Journey,  p.  447. 


;  I 


1 1 


■«: 


IF 


173      HAPPY  EFFECTS  OF  HEPBURN*S  COVNeELS. 


ti    I 


Im 


■>■   I 


and  example  of  this  pious  and  intelligent  man  produced  the 
best  effects  on  the  spirits  of  the  party.  He  had  brought 
with  him  his  Testament  and  Prayer-book ;  and  by  reading 
portions  of  Scripture  appropriate  to  their  situation,  and  en- 
couraging them  to  join  in  prayer  and  thanksgiving,  he  led 
them  to  the  only  Source  whence,  under  the  awful  circum- 
stances in  which  they  were  placed,  they  could  derive  hope 
or  consolation.  He  taught  them  the  necessity  of  exertion, 
whatever  pain  it  might  at  first  cost ;  roused  them  to  pay  some 
attention  to  the  cleanliness  of  their  apartment,  and  insisted 
particularly  that  during  the  day  they  should  roll  up  their 
blankets,  which  they  had  been  in  the  practice  of  leaving 
beside  the  fire  where  they  slept.  Their  several  tasks  were 
now  allotted  to  each  ;  Hepburn  and  Richar.yson  went  out 
MI  search  of  deer ;  while  Franklin,  being  unable  to  walk 
'ar,  remained  nearer  the  house,  and  digged  under  the  snow 
for  skins,  which,  during  their  former  happy  winter  residence 
«it  this  station,  when  they  killed  and  ate  abiHhiance  of 
giune,  were  thrown  away  as  useless,  but  now,  in  their 
almost  putrid  state,  formed  their  principal  support.  The 
cutting  of  firewood  was  intrusted  to  Peltier  and  Samandre ; 
but  both  were  so  weak  and  dispirited  that  it  was  generally 
performed  by  Hepburn  on  his  return  from  hunting ;  as  for 
Adam,  his  legs  were  still  so  severely  swollen  that  he  kept 
his  bed,  though  an  operation  performed  by  Dr.  Richardson 
gave  him  some  ease.  In  the  midst  of  these  necessary 
cares,  all  seemed  for  a  while  to  dread  approaching  the  sub- 
ject of  Hood  and  Michel's  death ;  but  at  length  one  even- 
ing, on  the  return  of  the  doctor  from  hunting,  and  after 
having  despatched  their  usual  supper  of  singed  skin  and 
bone-soup,  they  requested  him  to  relate  the  particulars,  and 
a  more  aiHicting,  or  in  some  respects  a  more  terrific  story, 
as  it  appears  in  his  published  narrative,  could  not  well  be 
conceived. 

He  stated,  that  aft ir  being  left  by  Captain  Franklin  they 
remained  beside  the  fire  as  long  as  it  lasted.  Having  no 
tripe  de  roche,  they  f-upped  on  an  infusion  of  the  country 
tea-plant,  which  was  grateful  from  its  warmth,  but  afforded 
no  nourishment,  and  retired  to  rest.  Next  day  proved 
stormy,  and  the  snow  bemg  so  deep  that  a  fire  could  not  be 
kindled  with  the  green  willows,  they  lay  in  bed  reading 
/some  religious  ^books  with  which  the  party  had  been  fur- 


I 


L9. 

ced  the 
brought 
reading 
and  en- 
,  he  led 
circum- 
ve  hope 
exertion, 
)ay  some 
insisted 
up  their 
f  leaving 
sks  were 
went  out 
;  to  walk 
the  snow 
residence 
(iance  of 
,  in  their 
oxt.     The 
amandre ; 
generally 
ig ;  as  for 
Lt  he  kept 
Lichardson 
necessary 
the  sub- 
one  even- 
and  after 
skin  and 
lars,  and 
•ific  story, 
•t  well  be 


RICHARDSON  S  NARRATIVE. 


173 


iklin  they 
laving  no 
Le  country 
[t  afforded 
\y  proved 
lid  not  be 
reading 
[been  fur- 


nished before  leaving  England  by  the  affectionate  and  pious 
care  of  a  K\dy.  "  They  proved,"  says  Richardson,  "  of  in- 
calculable benefit  to  us.  We  read  portions  of  them  to  each 
other  as  we  lay  in  bed,  in  addition  to  the  morning  and 
evening  service,  and  found  that  they  inspired  us  on  each 
perusal  with  so  strong  a  sense  of  the  omnipresence  of  a 
beneficent  God,  that  our  situation  in  these  wilds  appeared 
no  longer  destitute  ;  and  we  conversed  not  only  with  calm- 
ness but  with  cheerfulness,  detailing  with  unrestrained  con- 
fidence the  past  events  of  our  lives,  and  dwelling  with  hope 
upon  our  future  prospects."* 

The  weather  clearing  up.  Dr.  Richardson  went  out  in 
search  of  tripe  de  roche,  leaving  Mr.  Hood  in  bed  and  Hep- 
burn cutting  willows  for  a  fire  ;  but  the  rocks  were  covered 
with  ice  and  snow,  and  he  was  unsuccessful.  On  his  re- 
turn he  found  Michel  the  Iroquois,  who  delivered  the  note 
from  Franklin. t  All  were  surprised  to  see  him  alone;  but 
he  stated  that  Belanger  had  separated  from  him,  and,  as  he 
supposed,  lost  his  way,  he  himself  having  wandered  far 
from  the  straight  road.  They  had  afterward  good  reason 
to  suspect  the  truth  of  this  story,  but  believed  it  at  that 
moment,  and  were  rejoiced  to  see  him  produce  a  hare  and 
a  partridge, — an  unlooked-for  supply,  which  they  received 
with  humble  thankfulness  to  the  Giver  of  all  good.  Frank- 
lin's note  advised  them  to  advance  to  a  little  wood  of  pines, 
which  would  afford  better  fuel ;  and  to  this  they  removed 
unaer  the  guidance  of  Michel,  who  led  them  straight  to  the 
spot. 

As  he  had  declared  himself  so  little  acquainted  with  the 
country  as  to  lose  his  way,  it  seemed  strange  that  he  should 
at  once  conduct  them  to  the  thicket.  This  rous  3d  their 
attention,  and  made  them  feel  rather  uneasy  as  to  his 
honesty;  and  various  circiunHtnncrs  occurred  to  increase 
their  suspicions.  He  requested  the  loan  of  •.  Iiatchet,  when 
any  other  hunter  would  have  tRlmn  only  l\is  knife.  He  re- 
mained abroad  all  day  without  any  definite  employment. 
He  brought  them  some  raw  meat,  saying  it  was  part  of 
the  carcass  of  a  wolC;  but  which  they  had  afterward  rea- 
son to  believe  was  a  porfion  of  the  bodies  of  Belanger  and 
Perrault,  whom  they  suspected  him  to  have  murdered.    He 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  449.    t  IWd.  p.  i40. 

P2 


^  i 


174 


Michel's  suspicious  conduct. 


shunned  the  society  of  Dr.  Richnrdson  and  Mr.  Hood,  re- 
fusing to  sleep  in  the  tent,  and  preferring  to  lie  alone  at  the 
fire.  On  going  out  with  the  purpose  of  remaining  a  whole 
day,  he  often  returned  abruptly,  and  when  questioned  gave 
vague  answers.  In  a  few  days  he  began  to  regret  that  he 
had  left  Captain  Franklin's  party,  refused  to  take  any  share 
in  the  labour  of  cutting  wood,  talked  in  a  surly  and  insolent 
manner,  and  could  scarcely  be  prevailed  upon  to  go  out  and 
hunt  at  all.  These  symptoms  of  gloomy  dissatisfaction 
increased ;  he  resisted  all  entreaties,  and  when  Mr.  Hood, 
who  was  now  reduced  by  famine  to  the  last  extremity,  re- 
monstrated with  him,  he  flew  into  a  violent  passion,  and 
exclaimed,  "  It  is  of  no  use  hunting ;  there  are  no  animals ; 
you  had  better  kill  and  eat  me."  He  afterward,  however, 
consented  to  go  out,  but  returned  upon  some  frivolous  pre- 
tence ;  and  on  the  succeeding  day  that  dreadful  catastrophe 
took  place  which  will  be  best  given  in  the  words  of  Dr. 
Richardson's  Journal. 

♦'In  the  morning,"  says  he,  "being  Sunday,  October 
20th,  we  again  urged  Michel  to  go  a-hunting,  that  he 
might,  if  possible,  leave  us  some  provision,  to-morrow  being 
the  day  appointed  for  his  quitting  us ;  but  he  showed  great 
unwillingness  to  go  out,  and  lingered  about  the  fire  under 
the  pretence  of  cleaning  his  gun.  After  we  had  read  the 
morning  service,  I  went  about  noon  to  gather  some  tripe 
de  roche,  leaving  Mr.  Hood  sitting  before  the  tent  at  the 
fireside  arguing  with  Michel.  Hepburn  was  employed 
cutting  down  a  tree  at  a  small  distance  from  the  tent,  being 
desirous  of  accumulating  a  quantity  of  firewood.  A  short 
time  after  I  went  out  I  heard  the  report  of  a  gun,  and  about 
ten  minutes  afterward  Hepburn  called  to  me  in  a  voice  of 
great  alarm  to  come  directly.  When  I  arrived  I  found  poor 
Hood  lying  lifeless  at  the  fireside,  a  ball  having  apparently 
entered  his  forehead.  I  was  at  first  horror-struck  with  the 
idea  that  in  a  fit  of  despondency  he  h?  1  hurried  himself 
into  the  presence  of  his  Almighty  Judge  by  an  act  of  his 
own  hand  ;  but  the  conduct  of  Michel  soon  gave  rise  to 
other  thoughts,  and  excited  suspicions  which  were  con- 
firmed, when,  upon  examining  the  body,  I  found  that  the 
shot  had  entered  the  back  part  of  the  head  and  had  passed 
out  at  the  forehead,  while  the  muzzle  of  the  gun  had  been 
applied  so  close  as  to  set  fire  to  tho  nightcap  behind.     The 


6 


;;3 


nURDEK    OF    MR.    HOOD. 


175 


ood,  re- 
e  at  the 
a  whole 
ed  gave 
that  he 
ny  share 
insolent 
out  and 
isfaction 
r.  Hood, 
mity,  re- 
ion,  and 
inimals ; 
lowever, 
ous  pre- 
:astrophe 
s  of  Dr. 

October 
that  he 
•ow  being 
ved  great 
ire  under 
read  the 
me  tripe 
it  at  the 
employed 
nt,  being 
A  short 
ind  about 
voice  of 
und  poor 
iparently 
with  the 
himself 
let  of  his 
rise  to 
ere  con- 
that  the 
Ld  passed 
Ihad  been 
id.    The 


} 


::S 


'gun,  which  was  of  the  longest  kind  supplied  to  the  Indians^ 
could  not  have  been  placed  in  the  position  to  inflict  such  a 
wound  except  by  a  second  person.  Upon  inquiring  of 
Michel  how  it  happened,  he  replied  that  Mr.  Hood  had 
sent  him  into  the  tent  for  the  short  gun,  and  that  during 
his  absence  the  long  gun  had  gone  off,  he  did  not  know 
whether  by  accident  or  not.  He  held  the  short  gun  in  his 
hand  at  the  time  he  was  speaking.  Hepburn  afterward  as- 
serted, that  previous  to  the  report  of  the  gun,  Mr.  Hood 
and  Michel  were  speaking  to  each  other  in  an  elevated 
angry  tone  :  he  added,  that  Mr.  Hood,  being  seated  at  the 
fireside,  was  hid  from  him  by  intervening  willows  ;  but  that 
on  hearing  the  report  he  looked  up,  and  saw  Michel  rising 
up  from  before  the  tent-door,  or  just  behind  where  Mr.  Hood 
was  seated,  and  then  going  into  the  tent.  Thinking  that 
the  gun  had  been  discharged  for  the  purpose  of  cleaning  it, 
he  did  not  go  to  the  fire  at  first ;  and  when  Michel  called 
to  him  that  Mr.  Hood  was  dead,  a  considerable  time  had 
elapsed.  *  *  *  Bickersteth's  Scripture  Help  was  lying 
open  beside  the  body,  as  if  it  had  fallen  from  his  hand,  and 
it  is  probable  he  was  reading  it  at  the  instant  of  his 
death."* 

Such  was  the  melancholy  fate  of  Mr.  Hood,  a  young 
officer  of  the  highest  promise,  who  by  his  conduct  had  en- 
deared himself  to  every  member  of  the  expedition,  and 
whose  sufferings,  as  they  were  more  intense  from  the  pe- 
culiarity of  his  constitution,  were  borne  with  a  placid  and 
unpretending  fortitude  which  it  was  impossible  to  contem- 
plpte  without  emotion.  Both  Dr.  Richardson  and  Hepburn 
were  couvinced  he  had  met  his  death  from  the  hands  of 
Michel ;  but  to  have  accused  him  at  that  moment  would 
have  been  the  extremity  of  rashness.  They  were  so  re- 
duced by  famine  that  he  could  easily  have  overpowered 
both.  His  appearance  showed  that  he  possessed  secret 
supplies  of  food ;  he  was  of  great  bodily  strength,  and  was 
armed  to  the  teeth,  carrying,  besides  his  gun,  a  brace  of 
pistols,  an  Indian  bayonet,  and  a  knife.  To  have  hinted  a 
suspicion,  therefore,  might  have  been  instantly  fatal,  and 
they  affected  to  consider  the  death  of  their  companion  en- 
tirely  accidental.     As   his  weakness  had  been  the  chief 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  vol.  iv  l2mo.  ed.  p.  109-112. 


176 


TlinEATS    OF   MICHEL 


'"Ji 


cause  of  delaying  their  journey,  they  now  set  out  for  the 
fort,  having  first  paid  the  last  rites  to  the  dead  in  the  only 
way  which  their  situation  would  permit.  The  f  ^und  was 
so  hard  and  their  strength  so  exhausted,  that  to  tlio  a  grave 
was  impossible ;  so  they  carried  the  body  into  the  willow 
grove  behind  the  tent,  and  returning  to  the  fire  read  the 
funeral  service  in  addition  to  their  evening  devotions. 

In  the  morning,  having  singed  the  hair  off  a  portion  of 
Mr.  Hood's  buffalo  robe,  they  boiled  and  ate  it  for  breakfast. 
Meanwhile,  the  conduct  of  Michel  was  so  extraordinary, 
that  had  they  not  been  already  convinced  of  his  guilt,  no 
doubt  of  it  could  have  remained.  I'hough  not  a  breath  of 
their  (suspicions  reached  his  ears,  he  repeatedly  protested 
that  he  was  incapable  of  committing  such  an  act ;  he  kept 
constantly  on  his  guard ;  appeared  fearful  of  leaving  Dr. 
Richardson  and  Hepburn  alone  even  for  the  shortest  time  ; 
and  when  Hepburn  spoke  he  listened  anxiously,  though 
very  imperfectly  acquainted  with  the  English  language, 
fixed  his  eyes  keenly  upon  him,  and  asked  fiercely  if  he  ac- 
cused him  of  the  murder.  He  evinced  great  unwillingness 
to  set  out  for  the  fort,  and  wished  Dr.  Richardson  to  pro- 
ceed to  the  Coppermine  River,  where  he  said  the  woods 
would  supply  plenty  of  deer.  On  finding  this  advice  dis- 
recrarded  his  corsduct  became  more  and  more  alarming ;  he 
mutterd  to  himself,  fell  into  sullen  fits  of  abstraction,  and 
used  those  convulsive  and  abrupt  gestures  often  involun- 
tarily exhibited  by  a  person  whose  mind  is  full  of  some 
dreadful  purpose.  Suddenly  awakening  from  this  revery, 
he  again  expressed  his  unwillingness  to  return  to  the  fort, 
and  renewed  his  solicitations  to  Dr.  Richardson  to  repair  to 
the  southern  woods,  where  they  would  find  ample  subsist- 
ence. On  being  requested  to  pursue  his  own  plan  alone, 
and  leave  them  to  continue  their  journey,  he  broke  into  an 
ungovernable  fury,  accused  Hepburn  of  having  told  stories 
bgainst  him,  and  assumed  such  airs  of  superiority  as  showed 
that  he  knew  tliey  were  both  in  his  power,  at  the  same  time 
giving  vent  to  expressions  of  hatred  against  the  white  peo- 
ple, calling  them  deadly  enemies,  and  affirming  they  had 
killed  and  eaten  his  uncle  and  two  of  his  relations. 

None  of  these  menaces  were  lost  upon  Richardson  and 
Hepburn ;  both  felt  they  were  not  safe  in  this  man's  com- 
pany ;  and  these  dreadful  surmises  rose  into  certainty  when 


t 

J 
(] 

t: 

a 

P 
a: 

ir 

th 

P» 

ed 

pr 

w] 


I 


;  for  thfl 
he  only 
ind  was 
a  grave 
e  willow 
read  the 

ts. 

ortion  of 
reakfast. 
ordinary, 
guilt,  no 
jrealh  of 
protested 
he  kept 
iving  Dr« 
est  time ; 
r,  though 
language, 
if  he  ac- 
illingness 
on  to  pro- 
the  woods 
idvice  dis- 
ming;  he 
ction,  and 
involun- 
of  some 
|is  revery, 
the  fort, 
repair  to 
s  suhsist- 
lan  alone, 
le  into  an 
(id  stories 
is  showed 
jiame  time 
|?hite  peo- 
they  had 

[dson  and 
in's  com- 
ity when 


i 


I 


« 


HIS    DEATH. 


177 


he  threw  out  hints  that  he  would  free  himself  from  all  re- 
straint on  the  morrow.  Being  now  convinced  that,  as  he 
had  cruelly  murdered  Hood,  he  was  resolved  also  to  sacrifice 
them,  they  ascrihcd  his  not  having  already  done  so  to  the 
circumstance  of  his  not  knowing  the  way  to  the  fort,  and 
requiring  their  guidance.  They  came  to  this  conclusion 
without  any  communication  with  each  other ;  for  their 
fierce  companion  would  not  leave  them  a  moment,  watching 
them  with  a  malignant  look,  and  frequently  muttering 
threats  against  Hepburn.  Towards  evening,  as  they  ap- 
proached the  spot  where  it  would  be  ner  "sary  to  stop  for 
the  night,  Michel  halted  to  gather  tri|  roche,  and  to 

their  surprise  bade  them  walk  on  and  1  vould  soon  over- 
take them.  Hepburn  and  Dr.  Richardson,  now  left  alone 
together  for  the  first  time  since  Mr.  Hood's  death,  rapidly 
opened  their  minds  to  each  other.  In  addition  to  the  facts 
already  mentioned,  others  came  to  light  which  left  not  the 
slightest  doubt  as  to  Michel's  ^u\\t ;  and  so  convinced  was 
Hepburn  .jf  there  being  no  safety  for  them  but  in  his  death, 
that,  though  a  man  of  extreme  benevolence  and  deep  re- 
ligious principle,  he  offered  to  be  the  instrument  of  it  him- 
self. "  Had  my  own  life,"  says  Dr.  Richardson,  "  alone 
been  threatened,  I  would  not  have  purchased  it  by  such  a 
measure  ;  but  I  considered  myself  as  intrusted  also  with 
the  protection  of  Hepburn's,  a  man  who  by  his  humane 
attentions  and  devot^dness  had  so  endeared  himself  to  me 
that  I  felt  more  anxiety  for  his  safety  than  for  my  own.'* 
Animated  by  such  feeUngs,  and  convinced  that  Michel's 
death  was  necessary  to  self-preservation,  he  determined 
that  it  ought  to  be  by  his  own  and  not  by  Hepburn's  hand, 
BXi'l  on  his  coming  up  shot  him  through  the  head  with  a 
pistol.  It  appeared  that  he  had  gathered  no  tripe  de  roche, 
and  had  halted  to  put  his  gun  in  order,  no  doubt  with  the 
intention  of  attacking  them  when  in  the  act  of  encamping.* 
Dr.  Richardson  and  Hepburn  now  pursued  their  way  to 
the  fort ;  but  fatigue,  and  want  of  food  and  fuel,  had  nearly 
proved  fatal  to  them.  They  remarked,  however,  that  repeat- 
edly when  death  seemed  inevitable,  an  unexpected  supply  of 
provisions  again  restored  them ;  and  the  confidence  that, 
when  no  human  help  was  nigh,  they  were  supported  by  a 

*  Franklins  Journey,  p.  457, 458. 


t^ 


l!i 


-.^ 


1  ■« 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


l^|2|    |25 
T.   tiS,    12.0 


iA 


IL25  III  1.4 


I 


1.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14510 

(716)  S72-4S03 


^ 


•1>^ 


V 


<^ 


4 


;\ 


'^ 


**% 


^^   ^^ 


l/u 


^ 


o^ 


178    DEATH  OF  PELTIER  AND  SAMANDRI:. 

merciful  God,  inspired  them  with  renewed  hope.  At  last  th^y 
had  the  delight  of  beholding  from  an  eminence  the  smoke 
issuing  from  the  chimney  of  the  fort,  and  immediately  after 
embracing  those  friends  for  whose  fate  they  had  entertained 
80  many  melancholy  forebodings.  So  ended  this  interest- 
ing narrative. 

The  whole  party  were  now  once  more  united,  but  under 
circumstances  of  the  most  distressing  privation ;  all  ema- 
ciated to  such  a  degree  as  to  look  like  living  skeletons  ;  their 
hands  shook  from  weakness,  so  that  to  take  an  aim  was  im- 
possible ;  and  the  rein-deer,  partridges,  and  other  game 
flew  or  bounded  past  in  joyousness  and  security,  while  the 
unhappy  beings  who  beheld  them  were  gaunt  with  hunger. 
The  winter  was  closing  in  with  all  its  horrors ;  it  became 
daily  more  difficult  to  procure  fuel,  the  labour  of  cutting  and 
carrying  the  logs  being  so  grievous  that  only  Dr.  Richardson 
and  Hepburn  could  undertake  it ;  and  to  scrape  the  ground 
for  bones,  and  to  cook  this  miserable  meal,  was  all  Captain 
Franklin  could  accomplish.  On  1st  November,  the  doctor 
obtained  some  tripe  de  roche  ;  and  as  Peltier  and  Samandr^ 
were  in  the  last  stage  of  exhaustion,  it  was  hoped  a  little  of 
the  soup  might  revive  them.  All  was  in  vain  ;  they  tasted 
a  few  spoonfuls,  but  soon  complained  of  a  soreness  in  their 
throats,  and  both  died  in  the  course  of  the  night,  apparently 
without  pain.  To  inter  the  bodies,  or  even  carry  them  to 
the  river,  was  a  task  for  which  the  united  strength  of  the 
survivors  was  inadequate ;  all  they  could  do  was  to  remove 
them  into  an  opposite  part  of  the  house ;  and  the  living  and 
the  dead  remained  in  awful  contiguity  under  the  same  roof. 

The  party  was  now  reduced  to  four, — Franklin,  Richard- 
son, Hepburn,  and  Adam.  The  last  had  become  dreadfully 
low  since  the  death  of  his  companions,  and  could  not  bear 
to  be  left  alone  for  a  moment.  Their  stock  of  bones  was 
exhausted,  and  in  a  short  time  it  was  evident  that  the  se- 
verity of  the  frost  must  render  the  gathering  of  the  tripe  de 
roche  impossible.  Under  these  circumstances,  with  death 
by  famine  approaching  every  hour,  this  little  band  of  pious 
ard  brave  men  were  supported  by  an  unwavering  reliance 
on  the  mercy  of  God.  "  We  read  prayers,"  says  Captain 
Franklin,  **  and  a  portion  of  the  New  Testament  in  the 
morning  and  evening,  as  had  been  our  practice  since  Dr. 
Richardson's  arrival ;  and  I  may  remark,  that  the  perform- 


>■ 


I 


UNEXPECTED   RELIEF. 


179 


,t  last  th?y 
the  smoke 
lately  after 
sntertained 
is  interest- 
but  under 
I ;  all  ema- 
tons ;  their 
im  was  im- 
•ther  game 
,  while  the 
ith  hunger, 
it  became 
cutting  and 
Richardson 
the  ground 
all  Captain 
,  the  doctor 
d  Samandr6 
ed  a  little  of 
they  tasted 
less  in  their 
,  apparently 
.rry  them  to 
ngth  of  the 
IS  to  remove 
e  living  and 
e  same  roof, 
in,  Richard- 
le  dreadfully 
Lild  not  bear 
bones  was 
that  the  se- 
the  tripe  de 
with  death 
ind  of  pious 
Ing  reliance 
lays  Captain 
lent  in  the 
|e  since  Dr. 
the  perform- 


ance of  these  duties  always  afforded  us  the  greatest  conso- 
lation, serving  to  reanimate  our  hope  in  the  mercy  of  the 
Omnipotent,  who  alone  could  save  and  deliver  us.'**  It 
seemed  as  if  it  were  the  mysterious  design  of  the  Almighty 
to  permit  them  to  be  reduced  to  the  lowest  depth  of  suffering, 
that  his  power  might  be  magnified  at  the  very  moment  when 
every  human  effort  appeared  utterly  impotent.  Hitherto 
Dr.  Richardson  and  Hepburn  had  been  the  healthiest  of  the 
party,  but  they  had  overwrought  themselves,  and  both  sank 
rapidly.  Owing  to  tlieir  loss  of  flesh,  the  hardness  of  the 
floor,  from  which  they  were  only  protected  by  a  single 
blanket,  rendered  the  whole  surface  of  their  bodies  sore ; 
yet  the  labour  of  turning  from  one  side  to  the  other  was  too 
much  for  them.  As  their  strength  sank,  their  mental  facul- 
ties partook  of  the  weakness  of  their  frame  ;  and,  to  employ 
the  candid  and  simple  expressions  of  the  excellent  leader, 
'*  an  unreasonable  pettishness  with  each  other  began  to 
manifest  itself,  each  believing  the  other  weaker  in  intellect 
than  himself,  and  more  in  need  of  advice  and  assistance.'* 
During  this  gloomy  period,  after  the  first  acute  pains  of 
hunger(which  lasted  but  for  three  or  four  days)  had  sub- 
sided, they  generally  enjoyed  the  refreshment  of  sleep,  ac- 
companied by  dreams  which,  for  the  most  part,  partook  of  a 
pleasant  character,  and  very  often  related  to  the  pleasures 
of  feasting. t 

Help,  however,  was  now  near  at  hand,  and  we  shall  not 
impair  the  affecting  description  of  their  deliverance  by  giving 
it  in  any  other  than  Captain  Franklin's  own  words.  "  On 
November  7th,  Ad:im  had  passed  a  restless  night,  being 
disquieted  by  gloomy  apprehensions  of  approaching  death, 
which  they  tried  in  vain  to  dispel.  He  was  so  low  in  the 
morning  as  scarcely  to  be  able  to  speak,  and  Captain  Frank- 
lin remained  by  his  bedside  to  cheer  him  as  much  as 
possible,  while  the  doctor  and  Hepburn  went  out  to  cut 
wood.  They  had  hardly  begun  their  labour  when  they  werr 
amazed  at  hearing  the  report  of  a  musket,  and  could 
scarcely  believe  that  there  was  any  one  near  till  they  heard 
a  shout,  and  espied  three  Indians  close  to  the  house.  Adam 
and  Franklin  heard  the  latter  noise,  and  were  fearful  that 
some  part  of  the  house  had  fallen  upon  one  of  their  com- 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  404.       f  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  466,  40^ 


180 


ARRIVAL    OF    THE    INDIANS. 


h 


¥ 


panions, — a  disaster  which  had  been  thought  not  unlikely. 
The  alarm  was  only  momentary  ;  for  Dr.  Richardson  came 
in  to  communicate  the  joyful  intelligence  that  relief  had 
arrived.  He  and  Captain  Franklin  immediately  addressed 
their  thanksgivings  to  the  Throne  of  Mercy  for  this  deliver- 
ance ;  but  poor  Adam  was  in  so  low  a  state  that  he  could 
scarcely  comprehend  the  information.  When  the  Indians 
entered  he  attempted  to  rise,  but  immediately  sank  down 
again.  But  for  this  seasonable  interposition  of  Providence, 
his  existence  must  have  terminated  in  a  few  hours,  and  that 
of  the  rest  probably  in  not  many  days."* 

The  Indians,  who  had  been  despatched  by  Mr.  Back,  had 
travelled  with  great  expedition,  and  brought  a  small  sup- 
ply of  provisions.  They  imprudently  presented  too  much 
food  at  first ;  and  though  aware  of  the  effects  which  might 
arise  from  a  surfeit,  and  warned  by  Dr.  Richardson  to  eat  very 
sparingly,  the  sight  of  the  venison  was  irresistible  :  and  it 
was  devoured  by  them  all,  not  excluding  the  doctor  him- 
self, with  an  avidity  that  soon  produced  the  most  acute 
pains,  which  during  the  night  deprived  them  of  rest.  Adam, 
whose  weakness  rendered  him  unable  to  feed  himself,  was 
not  subjected  to  the  same  inconvenience,  and  taking  mode- 
rate meals  revived  hourly.  All  now  was  thankfulness  and 
cheerful  activity.  Boudel-kell,  the  youngest  Indian,  after  an 
hour's  rest,  returned  to  the  encampment  of  Akaitcho,  the 
Dog-rib  chief,  carrying  a  note  from  Captain  Franklin,  and 
a  request  for  another  supply  of  provisions.  The  two  others, 
named  in  their  familiar  manner  Crooked  Foot  and  the  Rat, 
remained  to  nurse  the  white  men.  Under  their  care  the 
apartment,  lately  so  desolate,  and  something  between  a  sep- 
ulchre and  a  lazar-house,  assumed  a  gladdened  look  which 
had  the  best  effect.  The  dead  bodies  were  removed,  the 
room  cleaned  of  its  filth  and  fragments  of  pounded  bones, 
and  large  cheerful  fires  produced  a  sensation  of  comfort  to 
■which  they  had  long  been  strangers.  The  poor  sufferers 
had  often  cast  a  wishful  eye  on  a  pile  of  dried  wood  near 
the  river,  but  were  utterly  unable  to  carry  it  up  the  bank. 
"When  pointed  out  to  the  Indians,  they  fetched  it  home  with 
a  rapidity  which  astonished  their  feeble  friends.  "  They  set 
about  every  thing,"  says  Franklin,  "with  an  activity  which 


*  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  467. 


CONCLUSION   OF    THE    EXPEDITION. 


181 


unlikely, 
son  came 
relief  had 
addressed 
is  deliver- 
t  he  could 
e  Indians 
ank  down 
rovidence, 
5,  and  that 

Back,  had 
small  sup- 
too  much 
tiich  might 
to  eat  very 
)le  :  and  it 
octor  him- 
nost    acute 
;st.   Adam, 
imself,  was 
king  mode- 
fulness  and 
an,  after  an 
aitcho,  the 
anklin,  and 
two  others, 
nd  the  Rat, 
'ir  care  the 
i;»'een  a  sep- 
look  which 
moved,  the 
nded  bones, 
■  comfort  to 
or  sufferers 
wood  near 
the  bank, 
home  with 
"  They  set 
tivity  which 


amazed  us.  Indeed,  contrasted  with  our  emaciated  figures 
and  extreme  debility,  their  frames  appeared  to  us  gigantic^ 
and  their  strength  supernatural." 

Under  the  care  of  the  Indians,  and  the  blessing  of  whole- 
some and  regular  meals,  the  strength  of  the  party  was  so 
far  restored,  that,  although  still  feeble,  on  the  16th,  after 
having  united  in  prayer  and  thanksgiving  to  God  for  their 
deliverance,  they  left  Fort  Enterprise, — a  spot  where,  as  they 
had  formerly  enjoyed  much  comfort,  if  not  happiness,  they 
had  ^?t('Tly  expTioncrd  a  degree  of  misery  scarcely  to  hs 
paralleled.*  The  Indians  treated  them  with  unremitting 
kindness,  gave  them  their  own  snow-shoes,  and  walked  at 
their  side  to  be  ready  to  lift  them  up  when  they  fell.  In  this 
manner  they  pushed  forward  to  the  abode  of  Akaitcho,  the 
Indian  chief,  who  welcomed  them  with  the  utmost  hospita- 
lity. Soon  after  they  received  letters  from  their  friends  at 
Fort  Providence,  and  the  messenger  also  brought  two  trains 
of  dogs,  a  package  of  spirits  and  tobacco  for  the  Indians, 
and  a  supply  of  shirts  and  clothes  for  Captain  Franklin  and 
his  companions.  The  gratification  of  changing  their  linen, 
which  had  been  uninterruptedly  worn  ever  since  their  de- 
parture from  the  seacoast,  is  described  as  conveying  an  in- 
tensity of  comfort  to  which  no  worr^s  can  do  justice.  From 
this  spot  their  progress  to  Fort  Providence  and  thence  to 
Montreal  was  prosperous  and  easy  ;  and  thus  terminated 
their  long,  fatiguing,  and  disastrous  travels  in  North 
America,  having  journeyed  by  water  and  by  land,  includ- 
ing their  navigation  of  the  Polar  Sea,  5550  miles. 

So  disastrous  had  been  the  result  of  his  first  expedition, 
and  so  appalling  the  sufferings  with  which  it  was  accompa- 
nied, that  nothmg  assuredly  can  convey  a  more  honourable 
testimony  to  the  enthusiastic  zeal  and  unshaken  perseve- 
rance of  Captain  Franklin,  than  the  statement  of  the  simple 
fact,  that  towards  the  close  of  1823,  having  learned  the  de- 
termination of  government  to  make  another  attempt  to  effect 
a  northern  passage  by  sea  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific 
Oceans,  he,  to  use  his  own  words,  **  ventured  to  lay  before 
liis  majesty's  government  a  plan  for  an  expedition  overland 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  and  thence  by  sea  to 
the  north-western  extremity  of  America,  with  the  combined 

♦  Franklin^s  Journey,  p.  470. 

a 


I 


hf 


: 


i  ■       *  I 


182 


franklin's  second  journey. 


object  also  of  surveying  the  coasts  between  the  Mackenzie 
and  the  Coppermine  Rivers." 

It  was  the  opinion  of  this  able  officer,  that  in  the  course  he 
now  proposed  to  follow,  reverses  similar  to  those  which  had 
surrounded  his  first  journey  were  scarcely  to  be  appre- 
hended ;  and  his  views  having  met  the  approbation  of  govern- 
ment, he  received  directions  for  the  equipment  of  the 
expedition,  and  was  nominated  its  commander.  He  had 
the  satisfaction  also  of  being  once  more  accompanied  by  his 
valued  friend  Dr.  Richardson ;  who,  unappalled  by  his 
former  dreadful  sufferings,  again  offered  his  services  as 
naturalist  and  surgeon,  and  volunteered  to  undertake  the 
survey  of  the  coast  between  the  Mackenzie  and  Coppermine 
Rivers,  while  Captain  Franklin  was  occupied  in  an  attempt 
to  reach  Icy  Cape.*  Previous  to  the  departure  of  the  ships 
a  correspondence  was  opened  with  the  governor  and  direc- 
tors of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ;  who  transmitted  in- 
junctions to  their  ofi'icers  in  the  fur-countries  to  provide 
depots  of  provisions  at  the  stations  pointed  out  by  Franklin. 

The  building  of  proper  boats  for  the  navigation  of  the 
Arctic  Sea,  as  well  as  the  passage  of  the  rapids  between 
York  Factory  and  Mackenzie  River,  formed  the  next  object 
of  attention.  It  was  evident  that  the  canoes  of  bi  -ch-bark 
employed  hj  Sir  A.  Mackenzie,  and  by  Captain  Franklin  in 
his  first  journey,  though  excellently  adapted  for  the  Ameri- 
can rivers,  uniting  lightness  and  facility  of  repair  with  speed, 
were  yet,  from  the  tenderness  of  the  bark,  little  fitted  to  re- 
sist the  force  of  the  arctic  waves,  or  the  collision  of  the 
sharp-pointed  masses  of  ice.  Captain  Franklin  accordingly 
obtained  the  Admiralty's  permission  to  have  three  boats 
constructed,  at  Woolwich,  under  his  own  superintendence. 
"  They  were  built,"  says  he,  *'  of  mahogany,  with  timbeis 
of  ash,  both  ends  exactly  alike,  and  fitted  to  be  steered  either 
with  a  ship-oar  or  a  rudder.  The  largest,  being  twenty-six 
feet  long  and  five  feet  four  inches  broad,  was  adapted  for  six 
rowers,  a  steersman,  and  an  officer ;  it  was  found  to  be  ca- 
pable of  carrying  three  tons  weight  in  addition  to  the  crew, 
and  could  be  transported  with  ease  on  the  shoulders  of  six 
men.    The  other  two  boats  were  twenty-four  feet  in  length, 

*  Franklin's  Narrative  of  a  Second  Expedition  to  the  Shores  of  the 
Polar  Sea.    Introductory  Chapter,  p.  10. 


i 
I 

7i 


DEPARTURE  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


183 


four  feet  ten  inches  broad,  and  held  a  crew  of  five  men,  be- 
sides a  steersman  and  an  officer,  with  an  extra  weight  of 
two  and  a  half  tons.  In  addition  to  these,  another  little 
vessel  was  constructed,  at  Woolwich,  which  reflected  great 
credit  upon  its  inventor.  Lieutenant-colonel  Pasley,  of  the 
Royal  Engineers.  Its  shape  was  exactly  that  of  one  of  the 
valves  of  a  walnut-shell,  and  it  was  framed  of  well-seasoned 
planks  of  ash,  fastened  together  with  thongs,  and  covered 
with  Mackintosh's  prepared  canvass.  It  weighed  only 
eighty-five  pounds,  and  when  taken  to  pieces  could  be  made 
up  in  five  or  six  parcels,  and  again  put  together  in  less  than 
twenty  minutes,  although  it  was  nine  feet  long  by  four  feet 
four  inches  in  breadth."*  Each  person  on  board  was  pro- 
vided with  two  suits  of  water-proof  dresses,  prepared  by 
Mr.  Mackintosh,  of  Glasgow  ;  the  guns,  which  were  of  the 
same  bore  as  the  fowling-pieces  furnished  by  the  Hudson's 
Bay  company  to  the  Indian  hunters,  had  their  locks  tem- 
pered to  resist  the  cold  ;  each  being  fitted  with  a  broad 
Indian  dagger  similar  to  a  bayonet,  which,  on  being  dis- 
joined, could  be  used  as  a  knife.  Ammunition  of  the  best 
quality,  and  a  store  of  provisions  suHicient  for  two  years, 
were  r.iso  supplied. 

The  expedition  sailed  from  Liverpool  on  16th  February, 
1825,  and  after  a  favourable  passage  to  New- York,  pro- 
ceeded to  Albany,  travelled  through  Utica,  Rochester,  and 
Geneva,  crossed  the  Niagara  and  Lake  Ontario,  coasted  the 
northern  shore  of  Lake  Superior,  and  thence  pushed  for- 
ward through  Rainy  Lake,  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  Lake 
Winipeg,  Saskatchawan  River,  and  arrived  at  Cumberland 
House  en  the  15th  June.  P>om  this  station,  proceeding 
northward  to  Isle  a  la  Crosse,  and  passing  through  Deep 
River  and  Clear  and  Buffalo  Lakes,  they  overtook  their 
boats  in  Methye  River  on  the  morning  of  29th  June.  The 
advanced  period  of  the  season  rendered  it  impossible  to  era- 
bark  on  the  Mackenzie  before  the  middle  of  August,  so  that 
it  became  necessary  to  postpone  the  great  expedition  till  the 
ensuing  summer.  They  accordingly  established  their  winter- 
quarters  on  the  banks,  erecting  a  habitation  and  store,  which 
they  named  Fort  Franklin.  The  superintendence  of  these 
buildings  was  committed  to  Lieutenant  Back,  while  Captain 

*  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  Intro.  Chap.  p.  15, 18. 


184 


ARRIVAL   AT   WHALE    ISLAND. 


Franklin  Jetermined  to  descend  the  river,  take  a  view  of  the 
state  uf  the  Polar  Sea,  and  return  to  winter^quarters  before 
the  extreme  cold  should  set  in. 

In  this  voyage  there  occurred  nothing  worthy  of  partiijular 
notice  till  the  arrival  at  Whale  Island,  where,  though  Mac- 
kenzie had  the  strongest  reasons  to  conclude  that  he  had 
reached  the  sea,  he  appears  not  to  have  been  completely  satis- 
fied on  that  point.  Probably  his  doubts  arose  from  the  fresh 
taste  of  the  water.  Franklin,  however,  proceeded  beyond 
Whale  Island,  and  reached  the  shore  of  the  great  Arctic 
Ocean.  "  Embarking,"  says  he,  "  at  eleven  A.  M.,  we  con- 
tinued our  course  along  the  shore  of  Ellice  Island,  until  we 
found  its  coast  trending  southward  of  east.  There  we  landed, 
and  were  rejoiced  at  the  sea-like  appearance  to  the  northward. 
An  island  was  now  discovered  to  the  north-east,  looking 
blue  from  its  distance,  towards  which  the  boat  was  imme- 
diately directed.  The  water,  which  for  the  last  eight  miles 
had  been  very  shallow,  became  gradually  deeper,  and  of  a 
more  green  colour,  though  still  fresh,  even  when  we  had 
entirely  lost  sight  of  the  eastern  land.  In  the  middle  of  the 
traverse  we  were  caught  by  a  strong  contrary  wind,  against 
which  our  crews  cheerfully  contended  for  five  hours.  Un- 
willing to  return  without  attaining  the  object  of  our  search, 
when  the  strength  of  the  rowers  was  nearly  exhausted  the 
sails  were  set  double-reefed,  and  our  excellent  boat  mounted 
over  the  waves  in  a  most  buoyant  manner,  while  an  oppor- 
tune alteration  of  the  wind  enabled  us  in  the  course  of 
another  hour  to  fetch  into  smoother  water  under  the  shelter 
of  the  island.  We  then  pulled  across  a  line  of  strong  rip- 
ple, which  marked  the  termination  of  the  fresh  water,  that 
on  the  seaward  side  being  brackish  ;  and  in  the  further  pro- 
gress of  three  miles  to  the  island,  we  had  the  indescribable 
pleasure  of  finding  the  water  decidedly  salt.  The  sun  was 
setting  as  the  boat  touched  the  beach ;  we  hastened  to  the 
most  elevated  part  of  the  island,  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  high,  to  look  around  ;  and  never  was  a  prospect  more 
gratifying  than  that  which  lay  open  to  us.  The  Rocky 
Mountains  were  seen  from  S.W.  to  W.^N.,  and  from  the 
latter  point,  round  by  the  north,  the  sea  appeared  in  all  its 
majesty,  entirely  free  from  ice,  and  without  any  visible  ob- 
etruction  to  its  navigation.  Many  seals  and  black  and 
inrhite  whales  were  seen  sporting  on  its  waves,  and  the 


WINTER   EMPLOYMENTS. 


185 


whole  scene  was  calculated  to  excite  in  our  minds  the  most 
flattering  expectations  of  our  own  success  and  that  of  our 
friiiids  in  the  Hecla  and  the  Fury."*  Franklin  pronotinces 
a  high  encomium  on  the  accuracy  of  Mackenzie,  and  con- 
siders him  as  completely  entitled  to  the  praise  of  having 
reached  the  Arctic  Sea,  although,  owing  to  the  frail  con- 
struction of  the  Indian  canoes,  it  was  impossible  for  him 
to  sail  to  the  point  where  the  water  became  salt. 

Having  accomplished  his  design  in  this  preliminary  jour- 
ney, Franklin  returned  on  5th  September  to  his  winter- 
quarters  on  Great  Bear  Lake.  About  the  same  time  Dr. 
Richardson  arrived  from  his  excursion  to  the  north-eastern 
shores  of  the  same  extensive  sheet  of  water,  having  com- 
pleted his  survey  as  far  as  the  influx  of  Dease's  River,  and 
ascertained  that  the  first  rapid  was  the  best  point  to  which 
the  eastern  detachment  of  the  expedition  should  direct  its 
course  on  their  return  from  the  Coppermine  in  the  following 
season.  Meantime  the  people  were  so  busily  employed  that 
time  never  hung  heavy  on  their  hands,  and  the  shortest  day 
came  almost  unexpectedly  upon  them.  The  Canadians 
and  Indians  were  engaged  in  fishing  and  hunting  for  the 
support  of  the  whole  party,  and  during  the  autumn  the  nets 
yielded  daily  eight  hundred  fish  of  the  kind  called  herring- 
salmon.  Four  Dog-rib  Indians,  along  with  the  two  interpre- 
ters, Augustus  and  Ooligbuck,  were  employed  in  hunting  rein- 
deer, and  the  sailors  were  divided  into  different  parties,  to 
whom  separate  duties  were  allotted ;  such  as  attending  on  the 
nets,  bringing  home  the  venison  killed  by  the  hunters,  felling, 
carrying,  and  splitting  wood,  and  exercising  themselves  in 
running  as  letter-carriers  on  snow-shoes  between  Fort 
Franklin  and  two  other  small  posts  established  on  the  Mac- 
kenzie and  Slave  Lake.  A  school  also  was  opened,  in 
which,  during  the  long  winter  evenings,  the  officers  instructed 
the  sailors  in  reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic  ;  and  during 
the  hours  of  relaxation  the  hall  was  given  up  to  the  men  to 
divert  themselves  with  any  game  they  chose  ;  on  which  oc- 
casions they  were  always  joined  by  the  officers.  Sunday 
was  invariably  a  day  of  rest,  and  the  whole  party  attended 
divine  service  morning  and  evening.  Besides  this,  the  offi- 
cers had  ample  employment  in  noting  down  the  thermo- 

*  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  34-36. 
Q3 


m 


m^ 


T-* 


180 


APPROACH    OF  SPRINO. 


h 


I: 


metrical,  magnetical,  and  atmospherical  observations,  in  writ' 
ing  their  journals,  finishing  their  charts  and  drawings,  and 
arranging  the  objects  of  natural  history  which  hud  been 
collected.*  They  were  amused  by  occasional  visits  of  the 
Dog-rib  Indians  and  various  other  tribes ;  and  Christmas- 
day  falling  on  a  Sunday,  they  on  the  succeeding  evening 
gave  a  dance  and  supper,  which  was  attended  by  sixty  per- 
sons including  savages.  **  Seldom,"  says  Franklin,  **  in 
such  a  confined  space  as  our  hall,  or  among  the  same  num- 
ber of  persons,  was  there  a  greater  variety  of  character  or 
greater  confusion  of  tongues.  The  party  consisted  of  En^ 
Hshmen,  Highlanders  (who  mostly  conversed  with  eacn 
other  in  Gaelic),  Canadians  (who  spoke  French),  Esqui- 
maux, Chipewyans,  Dog-ribs,  Hare  Indians,  Cree  women 
and  children,  all  mingled  together  in  perfect  harmony,  while 
the  amusements  were  varied  by  English,  Gaelic,  and  French 

songs."t 

The  spring  now  approached,  and  the  migratory  animalsy 
which  observe  with  beautiful  exactness  their  penods  of  de- 
parture and  arrival,  began  to  appear,  gladdening  the  yet 
wintry  face  of  nature.  On  5th  October  the  last  swan  had 
passed  to  the  southward,  and  on  the  11th  the  last  brown 
duck  was  noticed.  On  6th  May  the  first  swan  was  seen, 
and  on  the  8th  the  brown  ducks  reappeared  on  the  lake. 
The  mosses  began  to  sprout,  and  various  singing  birds  and 
orioles,  along  with  some  swifts  and  white  geese,  arrived 
soon  after.  It  is  remarked  by  Dr.  Richardson,  that  the 
singing  birds,  which  were  silent  on  the  banks  of  the  Bear 
Lake  during  the  day,  serenaded  their  mates  at  midnight ;  at 
which  time,  however,  it  was  quite  light.  On  20th  May  the 
little  stream  which  flowed  past  the  fort  burst  its  icy  chains, 
and  the  laughing  geese  arrived  to  give  renewed  cheerful- 
ness to  the  lake.  Soon  .after  this  the  winter-green  began 
to  push  forth  its  flowers  ;  and  under  the  increasing  warmth 
of  the  sun's  rays  the  whole  face  of  nature  underwent  a  de- 
lightful change.  The  snow  gradually  melted,  the  ice  broke 
up  from  the  shores  of  the  lake;,  the  northern  sky  became 
led  and  luminous  at  midnight,  the  dwarf-birch  and  willows 
expanded  their  leaves,  and  by  the  3d  June  the  anemones, 

*  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  54-56. 
t  IM.  p.  67. 


"} 


EMBARKATION  ON  THE  MACKENZIE. 


187 


the  tuBsilago,  the  Lapland  rose,  and  other  early  plants,  were 
in  full  flower.* 

Admonished  by  these  pleasing  changes,  Captain  Franklin 
prepared  to  set  out,  and  on  1 5th  June  the  equipments  for 
the  boats  were  completed.  Fourteen  men,  including  Au- 
gustus the  Esquimaux  interpreter,  accompanied  the  com- 
mander-in-chief and  Lieutenant  Buck  in  the  two  larger  boats, 
the  Lion  and  the  Reliance  ;  while  nine  men,  and  Oolig- 
buck  another  interpreter,  attended  Dr.  Richardson  and  Mr. 
Kendall  in  the  Dolphin  and  the  Union.  Spare  blankets,  and 
all  that  could  be  useful  for  the  voyage,  or  as  presents  to  the 
Esquimaux,  were  divided  between  the  eastern  and  western 
parties.  On  the  Sunday  before  their  departure,  the  officers 
and  men  assembled  at  divine  worship^  and,  in  addition  to 
the  usual  service,  the  special  protection  of  the  Almighty 
was  implored  for  the  enterprise  upon  which  they  were  about 
to  be  engaged.  All  was  now  ready,  and  on  Tuesday,  28th 
June,  they  embarked  upon  the  Mackenzie,  with  the  naviga- 
tion of  which  the  reader  is  already  familiar.  On  the  4th 
July  they  reached  that  part  where  the  river  divides  into 
various  channels,  and  the  two  parties  hud  determined  to 
pursue  different  directions.  The  expedition  which  was  to 
follow  the  western  branch,  commanded  by  Captain  Frank- 
lin, embarked  first  at  Dr.  Richardson's  desire,  with  a  salute 
of  three  hearty  cheers  from  their  companions,  and  as  they 
dropped  down  the  river  and  passed  round  a  point  of  land  they 
perceived  their  friends  who  were  to  follow  the  eastern  branch 
employed  in  the  bustle  of  embarkation.  All  were  in  high 
spirits,  and  it  was  impossible  not  to  contrast  their  present 
complete  state  of  equipment  with  the  circumstances  of  their 
first  disastrous  journey. 

On  reaching  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie,  the  western 
expedition  came  almost  immediately  into  contact  with  the 
Esquimaux.  Captain  Franklin  observed  an  encampment 
upon  a  neighbouring  island,  and  instantly  proceeded  to  open 
a  communication.  A  selection  of  presents  was  made,  and  at 
the  same  time  every  man  was  directed  to  have  his  gun  ready 
for  use.  Having  adopted  these  precautions,  they  steered 
direct  for  the  island  with  their  ensigns  flying.  The  boats 
touched  ground  when  about  a  mile  from  the  beach.     Signs 


i 

1^ 


■fi 


*  Richardson's  Meteorological  Tables. 


188 


ESQUIMAUX. 


r 


>vere  made  to  the  Esquimaux  to  come  off,  nnd  the  EngliHU 
milled  back  a  little  to  invnit  their  arrival  in  deeper  water. 
Three  canoes,  each  carrying  only  a  single  person,  pushed 
off,  and  those  were  followed  rapidly  by  others  ;  so  that  in  a 
lew  minutes  the  whole  space  between  the  boats  and  the 
shore  was  alive  with  those  little  vessels,  which  they  name 
kayaks.  An  attempt  was  at  first  made  to  count  them,  and 
the  sailors  got  the  length  of  seventy  ;  but  they  increased  in 
such  quick  succession  us  to  bafHo  their  further  efforts. 

At  first  every  thing  pr»)cre(hHl  in  a  friendly  manner.  Au- 
gustus, after  delivering  a  present,  informed  them,  that  if  the 
English  succeeded  in  finding  a  navigable  channel  for  large 
ships,  an  advantageous  trade  would  be  opened.  This  in- 
timatioii  was  received  with  a  deafening  shout,  and  the  sight 
of  the  presents  which  had  been  carried  away  by  the  three 
foremost  kayaks  inflamed  the  cupidity  of  their  companions  ; 
so  that  the  boats  were  in  a  moment  surrounded  by  nearly 
three  hundred  persons,  offering  for  sale  their  bows,  arrows, 
and  spears,  with  a  violence  and  perseverance  which  became 
at  last  exceedingly  troublesome,  and  Captain  Franklin  di- 
rected the  boats  to  be  put  to  seaward.  At  this  moment  a 
kayak  was  upset  by  one  of  the  oars  of  the  Lion,  and  its 
unhappy  possessor  was  struck  by  the  accident  with  his  head 
in  the  mud  and  his  heels  in  the  air.  He  was  instantly  ex- 
tricated, wrapped  in  a  warm  great-coat,  and  placed  in  the 
boat,  where,  although  at  first  excessively  frightened  and 
angry,  he  soon  became  reconciled  to  his  situation,  and  look- 
ing about,  discovered  many  bales  and  other  articles  which 
had  hitherto  been  carefully  concealed.  His  first  impulse 
was  to  ask  for  every  thing  he  saw,  his  next  to  be  indignant 
that  his  requests  were  not  granted  ;  and  on  joining  his  com- 
panions, as  they  afterward  learned,  he  harangued  on  the 
mexhaustible  riches  of  the  Lion,  uid  proposed  a  plan  for  a 
general  attack  and  pillage  of  both  the  boats.  This  scheme 
was  immediately  carried  into  execution  ;  and  although  the 
plunderers  at  first  affected  to  be  partly  in  sport,  matters  soon 
assumed  a  serious  complexion.  Two  of  the  most  powerful 
men,  leaping  on  board,  seized  Captain  Franklin,  forced  him 
to  sit  between  them,  and  when  he  shook  them  off,  a  third 
took  his  station  in  front  to  catch  his  arm  whenever  he 
attempted  to  raise  his  gun  or  lay  his  hand  on  the  broad  dagger 
which  hur)g  by  his  side.    During  this  assault  the  two  boats 


) 


\i\ 


e  Engliuh 
)et  water. 
II,  ]>ushcd 
)  that  in  a 
8  and  the 
hey  name 
them,  and 
creased  in 
Torts, 
mer.    Au- 
that  if  the 
1  for  large 
This  in- 
1  the  sight 
f  the  three 
npanions  ; 
by  nearly 
/8,  arrows, 
ch  became 
anklin  di- 
moment  a 
n,  and  its 
h  his  head 
stantly  ex- 
ced  in  the 
tened  and 
and  look- 
les  which 
i  impulse 
indignant 
his  corn- 
ed on  the 
Ian  for  a 
is  scheme 
ough  the 
ters  soon 
powerful 
reed  him 
,  a  third 
never  he 
d  dagger 
wo  boats 


TIOLENT  CONDrCT  OF  THE  ESQUIMAUX.        189 

were  violently  dranrjrod  to  the  shoro,  anil  a  numerous  party, 
•tripping  to  the  waist  and  hrandishitiir  tliinr  long  sharp 
knives,  ran  to  the  Reliance,  andconunenccd  a  rej^ular  pillage, 
handing  the  articles  to  the  women,  who,  ranged  in  a  row  be- 
hind, quickly  conveyed  them  out  of  sight.  No  sooner  was 
the  bow  cleared  of  one  set  of  marauders  than  another  party 
commenced  their  operations  at  the  stern.  The  Lion  was 
beset  by  smaller  numbers,  and  her  crew,  by  firmly  keepin^r 
their  seats  on  the  canvass  cover  spread  over  the  cargo,  and 
beating  off  the  natives  with  the  butt-end  of  their  muskets, 
succeeded  in  preventing  any  article  of  importance  from 
being  carried  away.  Irritated,  at  length,  by  their  frequent 
failure,  the  Esquimaux  made  u  simultaneous  charge,  and, 
leaping  cii  board,  began  to  wrest  the  dngjrers  and  shot-belts 
from  the  sailors,  and  to  strike  with  their  knives.  In  the 
midst  of  this  attack,  when  the  crew  in  the  Lion  were  nearly 
overpowered  and  their  commander  disarmed,  all  at  once  the 
natives  took  to  their  heels,  and  concealed  themselves  behind 
the  drift-timber  and  canoes  on  the  beach.  This  sudden 
panic  was  occasioned  by  Captain  Back,  whose  boat  at  this 
time  had  been  got  afloat,  commanding  his  crew  to  level  their 
muskets, — a  proceeding  which  was  immediately  observed 
by  the  Esquimaux,  though  not  noticed  by  Captain  Frank- 
lin's men,  who  were  wholly  occupied  in  defending  them- 
selves. The  Lion  happily  floated  soon  after  ;  and  as  both 
boats  pulled  ofT,  Captain  Franklin  desired  Augustus  to  in- 
form some  of  the  Esquimaux,  who  manifested  a  disposition 
to  follow  and  renew  the  attack,  that  he  would  shoot  the  first 
man  who  ventured  to  approach  within  musket-range.* 

In  the  evening,  Augustus  anxiously  entreiited  permission 
to  attend  a  conference  of  his  countrymen  on  the  shore,  to 
which  he  had  been  formally  invited.  The  courage  and 
fidelity  of  this  person  had  much  endeared  him  to  the  Eng- 
lish, and  it  was  not  without  hesitation  that  Captain  Frank- 
lin agreed  to  his  request,  as  he  stated  his  determination  to 
reprove  the  natives  for  their  disgraceful  conduct.  He  was 
at  length  allowed  to  go,  and  by  the  time  he  reached  the 
shore  the  number  of  Esquimaux  amounted  to  forty,  all  of 
them  armed.  On  landing,  he  walked  undauntedly  into  the 
middle  of  the  assembly,  an<l  addressed  them  in  the  following 

*  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  iOl-107. 


,<3 


K  fi 


r 


190 


SPKECH    OF   AUGUSTUS. 


animated  speech,  which  he  afterward  repeated  to  his  Eng 
lish  friends  : — **  Your  conduct,"  said  he,  "  has  been  very 
bad,  and  unlike  all  other  Esquimaux.  Some  of  you  eveu 
stole  from  me,  your  countryman — but  that  I  do  not  mind. 
I  only  regret  that  you  should  have  treated  in  this  violent 
manner  the  white  people,  who  came  solely  to  do  you  kind- 
ness. My  tribe  were  in  the  same  unhappy  state  in  which 
you  now  are  before  the  white  people  came  to  Churchill ; 
but  at  present  they  are  supplied  with  every  thing  they  need  ; 
and  you  see  that  I  am  well  clothed,  I  get  every  thing  I  want, 
ard  am  very  comfortable.  You  cannot  expect,  after  the 
t/ansactions  of  this  day,  that  these  people  will  ever  bring 
rny  articles  to  your  country  again,  unless  you  show  your 
contrition  by  returning  the  stolen  goods.  The  white  people 
love  the  Esquimaux,  and  wish  to  show  them  the  same  kind- 
ness that  they  bettow  upon  the  Indians.  Do  not  deceive 
yourselves,  and  suppose  that  they  are  afraid  of  you ;  I  tell 
you  they  are  not,  and  that  it  is  entirely  owing  to  their  hu- 
manity that  many  of  you  were  not  killed  to-day,  for  they 
have  all  guns  with  which  they  can  destroy  you  either  near 
or  at  a  distance.  I  also  have  a  gun,  and  can  assure  you 
that  if  a  white  man  had  fallen,  I  would  have  been  the  first 
to  have  revenged  his  death."  During  this  speech,  which 
was  delivered,  as  they  perceived  from  the  boats,  with  much 
energy  and  spirited  gesticulation,  the  Esquimaux  expressed 
their  approbation  by  frequent  shouts,  and  on  its  conclusion 
made  a  very  penitent,  though  somewhiit  singular  apology  : 
*'  They  had  never  seen  white  men  before,"  they  said,  "  and 
really  all  the  things  in  the  boats  were  so  beautiful  and  de- 
sirable that  it  was  impossible  not  to  steal  them.  As  they 
were  very  anxious,  however,  for  the  friendship  and  trade  of 
the  white  men,  they  solemnly  promised  never  to  repeat  such 
conduct,  and,  at  the  request  of  Augustus,  sent  back  the 
large  kettle,  the  tent,  and  some  pairs  of  shoes  which  they 
had  carried  off."*  The  interpreter  was  afterward  invited 
to  a  dance,  and  a  friendly  understanding  seemed  to  be  es- 
tablished ;  but  Captain  Franklin  soon  discovered  that  the 
professions  of  the  natives  were  hollow  and  treacherous ;  and 
iiothing  but  his  jealous  precautions  saved  him  and  his  com- 


*  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  108, 109, 


FRIENDLY   ESQUIMAUX. 


191 


lis  Eng 
;en  very 
ou  eveu 
lot  mind. 
s  violent 
J  on  kind- 
in  which 
hurchill ; 
ey  need  ; 
g  I  want, 
after  the 
ver  bring 
tiow  your 
ite  people 
ame  kind- 
3t  deceive 
ou ;  I  tell 
I  their  hu- 
,  for  they 
;ither  near 
Lssure  you 
en  the  first 
}ch,  which 
tvith  much 
expressed 
conclusion 
apology  : 
aid,  "and 
I  and  de- 
As  they 
d  trade  of 
epeat  such 
t  back  the 
hich  they 
id  invited 
to  be  es- 
that  the 
rous ;  and 
his  com- 


panions from  massacre,  in  which  it  had  been  resolved  to  in- 
clude the  faithful  Augustus. 

Their  voyage  along  the  coast  in  the  direction  of  west- 
north-west,  after  a  progress  of  twelve  miles,  was  impeded 
by  the  ice  stretching  from  the  shore  far  to  seaward.  The 
boats  were  in  consequence  hauled  up  ;  and  as  the  frozen 
masses  were  piled  round  to  the  height  of  thirty  feet,  it  be- 
came necessary  to  await  the  breaking  up  of  this  formidable 
barrier.  Having  gone  to  sleep,  the  officers  were  startled  at 
midnight  by  the  guard  calling  to  arms  :  three  Esquimaux, 
belonging  to  a  large  party  encamped  at  some  distance,  had 
stolen  forward,  and  been  only  discovered  when  close  at  hand. 
Alarmed  at  the  appearance  of  the  men,  who  stood  to  their 
arms,  the  strangers  were  on  the  point  of  discharging  their 
arrows,  when  they  were  arrested  by  the  loud  voice  of  Au- 
gustus, who  explained  the  object  of  the  expedition,  and  di- 
lated upon  the  advantages  which  they  would  derive  from  it. 
A  present  confirmed  his  statement,  and  an  amicable  inter- 
course was  opened, — a  line,  however,  being  first  drawn  at  a 
certain  distance  from  the  tents,  across  which  no  Esquimaux 
was  to  pass  undr-r  the  penalty  of  being  instantly  shot. 
Against  this  they  made  no  remonstrance,  only  remarking, 
v/hen  informed  of  the  treacherous  conduct  of  the  natives  at 
the  mouth  of  Mackenzie  River,  that  "  these  were  bad  men, 
altogether  different  from  them,  and  never  failed  either  to 
steal  or  quarrel  whenever  an  opportunity  was  offered." 
The  delight  exhibited  by  these  people,  including  the  most 
elderly  among  them,  on  receiving  any  little  present,  was  ex- 
actly similar  to  that  of  children  when  they  get  hold  of  toys. 
They  ran  from  one  thing  to  another ;  examined  with  rest- 
less curiosity  every  part  of  Augustuses  dress,  who,  to  gratify 
his  vanity,  had  put  on  his  gayest  apparel ;  and,  ignorant  of 
the  uses  of  the  articles  presented  to  them,  they  walked  about 
with  cod-fish  hooks  and  awls  dangling  from  the  nose,  and 
copper  thimbles  strung  to  their  trousers  or  rein-deer  jackets. 
The  men  were  robust,  and  taller  than  those  seen  on  the 
east  coast  by  Captain  Parry,  though  their  manner  of  life 
appeared  to  be  nearly  the  same.  With  the  broad  nose  and 
small  eyes,  which  peculiarly  distinguish  the  whole  Esqui- 
maux tribes,  they  had  the  cheek-bones  less  projecting  than 
those  of  the  eastern  coast.  From  a  constant  exposure 
to  the  glare  of  the  ice  and  snow,  the   «vhole  party  were 


I' 


hm 


I 


m 


J  •'  ri 


M         »|: 


■I 


'I 


193    DRESS  AND  MANNERS  OF  THE  ESQUIMAUX. 

afflicted  with  sore  eyes,  and  two  of  the  old  men  seemed 
nearly  blind.  They  wore  the  hair  on  the  upper  lip  and 
chin,  and  every  man  had  pieces  of  bone  or  shells  thrust 
through  the  septum  of  the  nose,  while  holes  were  pierced 


t  - 


on  each  side  of  the  under  lip,  in  which  were  placed  circular 
pieces  of  ivory  with  a  large  blue  bead  in  the  centre, — orna- 
ments which  they  valued  highly,  and  declined  selling. 
Their  clothes  consisted  of  a  jacket  of  rein-deer  skin,  with 
a  skirt  behind  and  before,  and  a  small  hood  ;  breeches  of  the 
same  material,  and  large  seal-skin  boots.  The  djress  of  the 
females  differed  from  that  of  the  men  only  in  their  wearing 


n  seemed 

sr  Up  »^*^ 
ells  thrust 
re  pierced 


POINTS   SABINE    AND   KAY. 


193 


placed ( 


[  circular 
1  centre,— orna- 
kclined  selling, 
[deer  skin,  wit^^ 
1  breeches  of  the 
:he  djess  of  the 
their  wearing 


wide  trousers,  and  in  the  size  of  their  hoods,  which  did  not 
fit  close  to  the  head,  but  were  made  large  for  the  purpose 
of  receiving  their  children  :  these  were  ornamented  with 
stripes  of  different  coloured  skins,  and  round  the  top  was 
fastened  a  band  of  wolf's  hair,  made  to  stand  erect.  The 
women  were  from  four  feet  and  a  half  to  four  feet  three- 
quarters  high,  and  some  of  the  younger,  though  too  cor- 
pulent, were  pretty  ;  their  black  hair  was  tastefully  turned 
up  from  behind  to  the  top  of  the  head,  and  braided  with 
strings  of  white  and  blue  beads  and  cords  of  white  deer- 
skin. Both  men  and  women  were  much  pleased  by  having 
their  portraits  sketched  by  Captain  Back ;  and  one  young 
lady,  who  sat  for  a  full-length  and  chose  the  extraordinary 
attitude  of  stuffing  both  hands  into  her  breeches- pockets, 
interrupted  the  labours  of  the  draughtsman  by  repeatedly 
jumping  into  the  air,  and  smiling  in  a  very  ludicrous  and 
irresistible  manner.  The  men  were  armed  with  bows  and 
arrows,  long  knives,  which  they  concealed  in  the  shirt- 
sleeve, and  spears  tipped  with  bone.* 

The  Esquimaux  had  predicted,  that  as  soon  as  a  strong 
wind  began  to  blow  from  the  land  it  would  loosen  the  ice  ; 
and  on  12th  July  a  heavy  rain  with  a  pretty  high  gale  set 
in,  and  opened  up  a  passage.  The  boats  accordingly  were 
launched  ;  and;,  passing  a  wide  bay  named  by  the  com- 
mander after  his  friends  Captains  Sabine  and  Kay,  they 
were  suddenly  arrested  by  a  compact  body  of  ice,  and  en- 
veloped at  the  same  time  in  a  dense  fog.  On  attempting  to 
pull  back  for  the  purpose  of  landing,  they  discovered  that 
the  ice  had  closed  between  them  and  the  shore.  In  this 
situation  only  one  alternative  was  left,  which  was  to  pull  to 
seaward  and  trace  the  outer  border  of  the  ice.  This  they 
at  last  effected ;  though  a  sudden  change  of  wind  brought 
on  a  heavy  swell,  and  surrounded  them  with  floating  masses 
of  ice,  which  threatened  to  crush  the  boats  to  pieces. 
They  succeeded,  however,  after  five  hours  employed  in 
pr'ling  in  and  out  between  these  floating  icebergs,  in  reach- 
in^  the  shore  and  landing  a  little  to  the  west  of  Point  Sabine. 
After  a  detention  of  two  days  they  proceeded  as  far  as  Point 
Kay ;  but  being  here  again  impeded  by  a  compact  body  of 
ice,  which  extended  to  seaward  as  far  as  the  eye  could 

*  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  118, 119. 
R 


n 


194 


HERSCHEL   ISLAND. 


P 


\n  I 


n 


r  * 


f     '  ^ 


'M 


I     ..:. 


r 


i-  .'. 


^  '^ 


reach,  they  were  obliged  to  encamp  and  wait  patiently  for 
the  first  strong  breeze  from  the  land. 

The  time  of  their  sojourn  in  these  arctic  solitudes  was 
pleasantly  occupied  in  making  astronomical  observations, 
collecting  specimens  of  the  plants  in  flower,  sketching 
scenery,  and  completing  charts  of  the  coast.  Augustus 
went  in  search  of  his  countrymen,  and  returned  at  night 
with  a  young  Esquimaux  and  his  wife,  who,  after  a  few 
presents,  became  loquacious,  and  informed  them  that  the 
ice  would  soon  break  up.  Symptoms  of  this  desirable  change 
were  accordingly  observed  next  day,  and  with  great  labour 
they  reached  Herschel  Island.  At  the  moment  they  made 
the  shore  a  herd  of  rein-deer  came  bounding  down  to  the 
beach,  pursued  by  three  Esquimaux  hunters,  and  imme- 
diately took  the  water,  while  the  natives,  startled  at  sight 
of  the  strangers,  gazed  for  a  moment,  consulted  among 
themselves,  changed  the  heads  of  their  arrows,  and  pre- 
pared their  bows.  Their  hostile  Intentions,  however,  were 
laid  aside  when  they  were  addressed  by  Augustus ;  and  in 
the  evening  a  large  party  arrived,  bringing  dried  meat,  fish, 
and  game,  for  which  they  received  presents  in  exchange, 
which  set  them  singing  and  dancing  round  the  encampment 
for  the  greater  part  of  the  night. 

From  these  people  was  collected  some  curious  information. 
They  stated  that  they  procured  beads,  knives,  and  iron 
principally  from  Esquimaux  residing  far  away  to  the  west, 
and  also  from  Indians  who  came  annually  from  the  interior 
by  a  river  directly  opposite  the  encampment,  to  which  Cap- 
tain Franklin  gave  the  name  of  Mountain  Indian  River.* 
Whence  the  Indians  or  the  Esquimaux  obtained  these 
goods  they  could  not  tell,  but  supposed  it  was  from  Kabloo- 
nacht  or  white  men,  at  a  great  distance  to  the  west.  The 
articles  were  not  of  British  manufacture,  from  which  Cap- 
tain Franklin  concluded  that  the  Kabloonacht  must  be  the 
Russian  fur-traders. 

It  was  with  great  difficulty  that  the  boats  made  even  a 
short  distance  from  Herschel  Island.  The  ice  repeatedly 
closed  in  upon  them,  leaving  only  a  narrow  channel,  often 
too  shallow  to  float  the  boats,  and  dense  fogs  now  became 
frequent,   rendering  their  navigation  peculiarly  hazardous. 

*  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  130, 131. 


CLARENCE    RIVER. 


195 


tiently  fot 

tudes  was 
seTvations, 

sketching 

Augustus 
•d  at  night 
after  a  few 
m  that  the 
able  change 
rreat  labour 
t  they  made 
lown  to  the 

and  imme- 
tled  at  sight 
ulted  among 
ys,  and  pre- 
jwever,  were 
stus ;  and  in 
ed  meat,  fish, 
in  exchange, 

encampment 

Is  information, 
es,  and  iron 
J  to  the  west, 
m  the  interior 
,0  which  Cap- 
ndian  River.* 
[btained  these 
from  Kabloo- 
le  west.     The 
.m  which  Cap- 
[it  must  be  the 

,  made  even  a 
I  ice  repeatedly 
Ichannel,  often 
]s  now  became 

Irly  hazardous. 

)1. 


These  dreary  curtains  hanging  over  the  ice  gave  it  the 
appearance  of  water,  and  exposed  them  to  the  danger  of 
being  shut  in  by  an  impenetrable  barrier  when  they  expected 
an  open  sea.  They  continued  their  course,  however,  till 
they  came  abreast  of  Mount  Conybeare,  when  they  en- 
camped, and  crossing  a  swampy  level  ascended  to  the  sum- 
mit, from  which  they  enjoyed  a  striking  view  into  the  inte- 
rior. Three  noble  ranges  of  mountains  were  seen  parallel 
to  the  Buckland  chain,  but  of  less  altitude,  while  the  pros- 
pect was  bounded  by  a  fourth  range,  mingling  their  pyra- 
midal summits  with  the  clouds,  and  covered  with  snow. 
From  this  last  encampment  their  advance  was  extremely 
slow.  The  boats  were  pushed  forward  through  small  lanes, 
the  utmost  vigilance  being  necessary  to  prevent  their  being 
entirely  shut  in,  as  a  few  hours  often  made  essential 
changes,  and  their  frail  craft  could  only  be  saved  by  being 
frequently  hauled  upon  the  beach.  The  calm  weather  also 
retarded  them,  and  they  earnestly  longed  for  a  strong  gale 
to  break  up  the  compacted  fields  of  ice,  and  permit  them  to 
continue  their  voyage. 

After  a  detention  of  some  days  their  wishes  seemed  about 
to  be  gratified ;  at  midnight,  on  the  2.'ith  July,  a  strong 
south-westerly  breeze  sprang  up,  accompanied  by  thunder 
and  lightning ;  but  in  the  morning  an  impenetrable  fog 
hung  over  the  sea.  On  the  land  side  the  prospect  was 
equally  dreary  ;  an  extensive  swamp,  in  which  they  sank 
ankle-deep  at  every  step,  prevented  any  excursions  into  the 
interior,  and  the  clouds  of  mosquitoes  which  for  ever 
buzzed  around  them  kept  them  in  a  perpetual  irritation.  At 
length,  however,  the  fog  dispersed,  disclosing  an  open  lane  of 
water  about  halt  a  mile  from  shore  ;  following  its  course  for 
eight  miles  they  came  to  the  mouth  of  a  wide  river,  which 
had  its  rise  in  the  British  range  of  mountains.  Its  course 
approached  near  the  line  of  demarcation  between  the  Ame- 
rican dominions  of  Great  Britain  and  Russia,  and  Captain 
Franklin  named  it  the  Clarence  River,  after  his  present 
majesty,  then  lord  high  admiral.  On  the  most  elevated 
part  of  the  coast  near  its  mouth  they  erected  a  pile  of  drift- 
wood, under  which  was  deposited  a  tin  box,  containing  a 
royal  silver  medal,  and  an  account  of  the  proceedings  of  the 
expedition ;  afler  which  the  union  flag  was  hoisted  with 
three  hearty  cheers. 


m 


106 


MOUNT    COPLE8TON. 


» 


They  now  continued  their  voyage,  though  often  beset  by 
ice  and  interrupted  by  fogs,  and  passing  the  boundary  be- 
tween Russian  and  British  America  descried  an  encamp- 
ment of  natives  on  a  low  island,  surrounded  by  many  oomiaks 
and  kayaks  guarded  by  Esquimaux  dogs,  while  their  mas- 
ters were  fast  asleep  in  the  tents.  The  interpreter  being 
despatched  to  arouse  them,  a  singular  scene  took  place.  At 
his  first  call  a  little  squabby  woman  rushed  out  in  a  state  of 
perfect  nudity,  uttered  a  loud  yell,  and  instantly  ran  back 
again  to  rouse  her  husband,  who,  shouting  out  that  stran- 
gers were  at  hand,  awoke  the  whole  band.  In  a  moment  all 
seized  their  arms,  and  without  waiting  to  put  on  their  deer- 
skin breeches  or  jackets,  swarmed  out  upon  the  beach,  which 
in  an  instant  was  covered  with  fifty-four  grown-up  persons 
completely  naked,  very  outrageous,  dirty,  and  ugly.  A 
short  parley  quieted  their  fears,  an  interchange  of  presents 
look  place,  and  the  boats  crossed  Camden  Bay,  having  in 
view  the  noble  range  of  the  Romanzoff  Mountains,  whose 
peaks  were  covered  with  snow. 

Soon  after  they  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  a  river,  which 
discharged  into  the  sea  so  great  a  volume  of  water  that 
even  three  miles  from  land  the  taste  was  perfectly  fresh ; 
and  having  reached  latitude  70°  7',  farther  progress  was 
prevented  by  ice  closely  packed  or  the  outer  border  of  a 
reef,  and  they  discovered  that  the  great  chain  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  either  terminated  abreast  of  their  present  situa- 
tion, or  receded  so  far  to  the  southward  as  to  fade  away  in 
the  distance.  During  their  detention  Captain  Back,  to 
whose  pencil  we  are  indebted  for  many  admirable  drawings 
of  arctic  scenery,  made  a  sketch  of  the  most  western  moun- 
tain, which  they  named  Mount  Copleston.*  Various  cir- 
cumstances now  warned  them  that  much  further  progress 
along  this  inhospitable  coast  was  impracticable.  The  fogs 
became  more  frequent  and  perilous,  the  water  was  often  so 
shallow  that  even  at  two  miles  from  shore  the  boats 
grounded,  and  on  getting  into  deeper  soundings,  the  re- 
peated shocks  received  from  masses  of  floating  ice  severely 
injured  their  timbers,  especially  those  of  the  Lion,  which 
was  very  leaky.     Still  they  struggled  on  from  Flaxman 


*  Franklin's  Second 
volume. 


Journey,  p.  150.     See  the  Vignette  to  this 


ILLUSIONS    OF    THE    FOG. 


197 


:; 


Island  along  a  low,  desolate  shore,  rendered  more  dreary  by 
the  stormy  weather,  till  on  the  10th  a  gale  brought  along 
with  it  a  thick  fog,  and  they  hauled  up  the  boats,  encamping 
on  a  low  spot,  which  they  named  Foggy  Island.  Here  they 
kindled  fires,  dried  their  clothes,  which  were  completely 
wet  with  the  moisture  of  the  atmosphere,  and  amused 
themselves  in  their  murky  prison  by  proceeding  in  search  of 
rein-deer.  The  fog  caused  frequent  and  sometimes  ludi- 
crous mistakes  ;  and  on  one  occasion,  after  the  men  had 
spent  a  long  time  in  stealing  upon  some  deer,  and  were 
congratulating  themselves  on  coming  within  shot,  to  their 
amazement  the  animals  took  wing  and  disappeared  in  the 
fog,  with  a  scream  and  cackle  which  at  once  declared  their 
genus,  and  seemed  to  deride  the  credulity  of  their  pursuers. 
"  We  witnessed  with  regret,"  says  Captain  Franklin,  "  in 
these  short  rambles,  the  havoc  which  this  dreary  weather 
made  among  the  flowers.  Many  which  had  been  blooming 
upon  our  arrival  were  now  lying  prostrate  and  withered, 
and  these  symptoms  of  decay  could  not  fail  painAilly  to  re- 
mind us  that  the  term  of  our  operations  was  fast  approach- 
ing. Often  at  this  time  did  every  one  express  a  wish  that 
we  had  some  decked  vessel,  in  which  the  provisions  could 
be  secured  from  the  injury  of  salt-water,  and  the  crew 
sheltered  when  they  required  rest,  that  we  might  quit  this 
shallow  coast  and  steer  at  once  towards  Icy  Cape."*  So 
frequently  did  they  attempt  to  fulfil  this  desire,  and  so  per- 
petually were  they  driven  back  by  the  fog  closing  in  upon 
them,  that  the  sailors  declared  the  island  was  enchanted. 
Indeed,  to  a  superstitious  mind  the  appearances  furnished 
some  ground  for  believing  it.  The  fog  would  often  dis- 
perse, and  permit  a  short  glimpse  of  a  point  about  three 
miles  distant,  bearing  north-west-by-west ;  in  a  moment 
every  hand  was  at  work,  the  boats  were  launched,  the  crews 
embarked ;  but  before  they  could  be  dragged  into  deep 
water  the  spirit  of  the  mist  once  more  drew  his  impenetra- 
ble curtain  round  them,  and  after  resting  a  while  on  their 
oars,  they  were  compelled  to  pull  back  to  their  old  quarters. 
•Scarcely  had  they  kindled  a  fire  and  begun  to  dry  their 
clothes,  soaked  with  wading  over  the  flats,  when  the  fog 
again  opened,  the  boats  were  launched,  and  the  desired 


*  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  151. 
R2 


198 


APPROACH   OF    WINTER. 


point  almost  gained ;  but  their  tormentor  once  more  en- 
veloped earth  and  ocean  in  a  thicker  gloom  than  before. 
**  Fog  is,  of  all  others,"  says  Captain  Franklin,  "  the  moat 
hazardous  state  of  the  atmosphere  for  navigation  in  an  icy 
sea,  especially  where  it  is  accompanied  by  strong  breezes ; 
but  particularly  so  for  boats  where  the  shore  is  unapproach- 
able. If  caught  by  a  gale,  a  heavy  swell,  or  drifting  ice, 
the  result  must  be  their  wreck,  or  the  throwing  their  pro- 
visions overboard,  to  lighten  them  so  as  to  proceed  in  shoal- 
water.  Many  large  pieces  of  ice  were  seen  on  the  border  of 
the  shallow  water,  and  from  the  lowness  of  the  temperature 
we  concluded  that  the  main  body  was  at  no  great  distance."^ 
The  nights  were  now  lengthening :  the  grasses  and  the 
whole  aspect  of  the  vegetation  was  autumnal ;  their  stores 
of  drift-wood  had  been  so  much  drawn  upon,  that  though  the 
tents  were  wet  through,  and  they  were  for  warmth  obliged 
to  wrap  their  feet  in  blankets,  no  fire  was  allowed  except 
to  cook  the  victuals.  The  provisions  were  barely  sufficient 
for  the  support  of  the  party  on  their  return,  while  the  fre- 
quency of  the  fogs,  the  shallowness  which  prevented  the 
boats  from  floating,  the  heavy  swell  that,  as  the  wind 
freshened,  rose  upon  the  flats,  compelled  them  to  haul  far- 
ther from  land,  and  the  danger  which  in  doing  so  they 
necessarily  incurred  from  the  drift-ice, — formed  an  accumu- 
lation of  difficulties  which  rendered  their  progress  from 
Point  Anxiety  across  Prudhoe  Bay  to  Return  Reef  the  most 
discouraging  and  painful  part  of  the  whole  voyage.  It  was 
now  the  16th  of  August,  and  the  boats,  though  the  exer- 
tions of  the  crews  had  been  unwearied,  were  only  half-way 
between  the  mouth  of  Mackenzie  River  and  Icy  Cape.  The 
young  ice  had  already  begun  to  form  at  night  on  the  pools 
of  fresh  water,  and  the  mind  of  the  commander  recurred 
naturally  and  wisely  to  his  former  experience.  He  recol- 
lected that  only  one  day  later,  and  in  a  latitude  two  degrees 
more  southerly,  he  had  in  his  first  voyage  encountered 
severe  storms  c»f  wind  and  snow,  and  that  in  another  fort- 
night the  winter  would  set  in  with  all  its  horrors.  Already 
the  sun  began  to  sink  below  the  horizon,  and  with  this 
change  the  mean  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  rapidly 
decreased;  the  deer  were  hastening  from  the  coast;  the 


i 


3-      /. 


Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  150. 


THE  EXPEDITION  COMPELLED  TO  RETURN.      199 


more  en- 
an  before. 
»♦  the  most 
I  in  an  icy 
g  breezes; 
n  approach- 
riding  ice, 
their  pro- 
Bd  in  shoal- 
le  border  of 
emperature 
distance."* 
868  and  the 
their  stores 
t  though  the 
rmth  obliged 
>wed  except 
ely  sufficient 
rhile  the  fre- 
■evented  the 
is  the  wind 
I  to  haul  far- 
ing so  they 
an  accumu- 
ogress  from 
,eef  the  most 
lage.    It  was 
jh  the  exer- 
inly  half-way 
Cape.   The 
on  the  pools 
ider  recurred 
.    He  recol- 
two  degrees 
encountered 
another  fort- 
Irs.    Already 
,nd  with  this 
ihere  rapidly 
e  coast;  the 


Esquimaux  had  ceased  to  appear ;  no  winter  houses  gave 
indications  that  this  remote  coast  was  inhabited ;  and  the 
autumnal  parties  of  geese  hourly  winging  their  flight  to  the 
westward,  indicated  that  winter  had  already  surprised  them 
in  their  polar  solitudes.  It  had  been  Franklin's  great  object 
to  double  Icy  Cape,  and  meet  the  expedition  under  Captain 
Beechey  in  Kotzebue's  Inlet ;  but  from  the  distance  and  the 
advanced  season  this  was  now  impracticable.  On  the  other 
hand,  his  instructions  directed  him,  "  if,  in  consequence  of 
slow  progress,  or  other  unforeseen  accident,  it  should  re- 
main doubtful  whether  the  expedition  should  be  able  to  reach 
Kotzebue's  Inlet  the  same  season,  to  commence  their  return 
on  the  15th  or  20th  of  August."  To  relinquish  the  great 
object  of  his  ambition ;  and  to  disappoint  the  confidence 
reposed  in  his  exertions,  was  a  sacrifice  which  cost  him 
no  ordinary  pain  ;  and  had  he  been  then  aware  of  the 
fact  (with  which  the  reader  will  be  immediately  acquainted) 
that  the  barge  of  the  Blossom  was  at  that  moment  only  146 
miles  distant,  we  have  his  own  authority  for  stating  that 
no  difficulties  or  dangers  would  have  prevailed  on  him  to 
return ;  but,  under  the  circumstances  in  which  he  was 
placed,  to  make  any  further  effort  in  advance  was  incom- 
patible with  the  higher  duties  which  he  owed  to  his  officers 
nnd  crew.  After  a  mature  consideration  of  every  thing, 
he  formed  the  reluctant  conclusion  that  they  had  reached 
the  point  where  perseverance  would  have  been  rashness, 
and  their  best  efforts  must  have  only  led  to  a  more  calamitous 
failure.*  It  was  resolved  therefore  to  return ;  and  on  the 
morning  of  the  18th  of  August  they  began  their  retreat  to  the 
Mackenzie  River,  which,  without  any  material  danger,  with 
the  exception  of  a  severe  gale  encountered  off  Point  Kay,  they 
regained  on  the  4th  of  September.  Thence  they  proceeded 
to  Fort  Franklin,  where  they  met  Dr.  Richardson,  Mr.  Ken- 
dall, and  their  friends  of  the  eastern  expedition,  who,  after 
a  prosperous  and  interesting  voyage  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Coppermine,  had  returned  to  the  Fort  on  the  1st  September. 
Of  this  interesting  journey  our  limits  will  only  permit  a 
very  cursory  glance.  Fortunately  for  the  eastern  expe- 
dition, the  coast  between  the  mouths  of  the  Mackenzie  and 
the  Coppermine  Rivers  presented  none  of  those  serious 

*  FranUin*s  Second  Journey,  p.  16),  162, 169. 


.J 
/ 


•i 


'«  ) 


vmH 


^, 


*'    / 


200 


EASTERN   EXPEDITION. 


f 


^/' 


t 
y 


^ 


obstacles  which  at  every  step  were  starting  up  in  the  dreary 
and  protracted  route  of  the  western  party  ;  and  they  conse- 
quently accomplished  a  voyage  of  about  500  miles,  between 
the  4th  of  July  and  8th  of  August.  It  was  eminently  suc- 
cessful in  the  accurate  survey  of  this  hitherto  unexplored 
coast,  but  unvaried  by  any  remarkable  incidents.  The  Es- 
quimaux on  various  parts  of  the  coast  were  more  numerous, 
pacific,  comfortable,  and  wealthy  than  the  western  tribes; 
but  thoir  civilization  had  not  eradicated  the  propensities  for 
thieving.  On  one  occasion  the  boats  were  surrounded  by  a 
fleet  of  about  fifty  kayaks,  and  an  attack  was  made  exactly  sim- 
ilar to  that  upon  Franklin  ;  but  though  the  object  was  the 
same  it  was  pursued  with  less  vigour,  and  the  moment  the 
sailors  levelled  their  muskets  the  whole  party  dispersed  with 
precipitation. 

On  arriving  at  Atkinson  Islnnd  they  discovered,  under 
shelter  of  a  chain  of  sand-hills  drifted  by  the  wind  to  the 
height  of  thirty-feet,  a  small  Esquimaux  town,  consisting 
of  seventeen  winter  houses,  besides  a  larger  building,  which 
Dr.  Richardson  at  first  conjectured  to  be  a  house  of  assembly 
for  the  tribe.  Ooligbuck  the  interpreter,  however,  whose 
ideas  were  more  gross  and  commonplace,  pronounced  it  to 
be  a  general  eating-room.  "  This  large  building,"  says  Dr. 
Richardson,  "  was  in  the  interior  a  square  of  twenty-seven 
feet,  having  the  log  roof  supported  on  two  strong  ridge-poles 
two  feet  apart,  and  resting  on  four  upright  posts.  The  floor 
in  the  centre  formed  of  split  logs,  dressed  and  laid  with  great 
care,  was  surrounded  by  a  raised  border  about  three  feet 
wide,  which  was  no  doubt  meant  for  seats.  The  walls  three 
feet  high,  were  inclined  outwards,  for  the  convenience  of 
leaning  the  back  against  them,  and  the  ascent  to  the  door, 
which  was  on  the  south  side,  was  formed  of  logs.  The 
outside,  which  was  covered  with  earth,  had  nearly  a  hemi- 
spherical form,  and  round  its  base  were  ranged  the  sculls  of 
twenty-one  whales.  There  was  a  square  hole  in  the  roof, 
and  the  central  log  of  the  floor  had  a  basin-shaped  cavity 
one  foot  in  diameter,  which  was  perhaps  intended  for  a 
lamp.  The  general  attention  to  comfort  in  the  construction 
of  the  village,  and  the  erection  of  a  building  of  such  magni- 
tude, requiring  a  union  of  purpose  in  a  considerable  number 
of  people,  were  evidences  of  a  more  advanced  progress 
towards  civilization  than  had  yet  been  found  among  the 


NATIVEB   OF    HARROWBY    BAY. 


201 


the  dreary 
hey  conse- 
s,  between 
nently  »uc- 
unexplored 
The  Es- 
numerous, 
ern  tribes; 
enBities  for 
)unded  by  a 
exactly  sim- 
ect  was  the 
nomcnt  the 
jpersed  with 

vcred,  under 
wind  to  the 
n,  consisting 
ilding,  which 
» of  assembly 
(vever,  whose 
nounced  it  to 
tig,"  says  Dr. 
[twenty- seven 
ig  ridge-poles 
}.     The  floor 
lid  with  great 
ut  three  feet 
le  walls  three 
nvenience  of 
t  to  the  door, 
f  logs.     The 
early  a  hemi- 
the  sculls  of 
in  the  roof, 
ihaped  cavity 
itended  for  a 
construction 
such  magni- 
jrable  number 
feed   progress 
'  among  the 


Esquimaux.  Whalo-sculls  were  confined  to  the  large  build- 
ing, and  to  one  of  the  dwelling-houses,  which  had  three  or 
four  placed  round  it.  Many  wooden  trays  and  hand-barrows 
for  carrying  whale-blubber  were  lying  on  the  ground,  most 
of  them  in  a  state  of  decay."^ 

On  making  the  traverse  of  Harrowby  Bay,  land  was  seen 
round  the  bottom ;  and  on  nearing  shore  twelve  tents  were 
distinguished  on  an  adjoining  eminence.  When  the  boats 
appeared,  a  woman  who  was  walking  along  the  beach,  gave 
the  alarm,  and  the  men  rushed  out,  brandishing  their  knives, 
and  employing  the  most  furious  expressions.  In  vain 
Ooligbuck  endeavoured  to  calm  their  apprehensions,  explain- 
ing that  the  strangers  were  friends ;  they  only  replied  by 
shouts,  leaps,  or  hideous  grimaces,  intended  to  inspire  terror, 
and  displayed  great  agility,  frequently  standing  on  one  foot 
and  throwing  the  other  nearly  as  high  as  their  head.  Dr. 
Richardson,  nothing  intimidated  by  these  gesticulations,  be- 
thought himself  of  enouncing,  at  the  highest  key  he  could 
reach,  the  word  "  Noowcerlawgo,"  meaning,  "  I  wish  to 
barter,"  and  the  sound  operated  like  a  spell.  The  savages 
instantly  became  quiet ;  one  of  them  ran  to  his  kayak,  pad- 
dled off  to  the  boats,  and  was  followed  by  crowds,  who  fear- 
lessly came  alongside,  readily  exchanging  bows,  arrows, 
spears,  and  dressed  seal-skins,  for  bits  of  old  iron-hoop,  files, 
and  beads.  "  The  females,"  says  Richardson,  "  unlike 
those  of  the  Indian  tribes,  had  much  handsomer  features 
than  the  men ;  and  one  young  woman  of  the  party  would 
have  been  deemed  pretty  even  in  Europe.  Our  presents 
seemed  to  render  them  perfectly  happy,  and  they  danced 
with  such  ecstasy  in  their  slender  boats  as  to  incur  more 
than  once  great  hazard  of  being  overset.  A  bundle  of  strings 
of  beads  being  thrown  into  an  oomiak,  it  was  caught  by  aa 
old  woman,  who  hugged  the  treasure  to  her  breast  with  the 
strongest  expression  of  rapture  ;  while  another  elderly  dame, 
who  had  stretched  out  her  arms  in  vain,  became  the  very 
picture  of  despair.  On  its  being  explained,  however,  that 
the  present  was  intended  for  the  whole  party,  an  amicable 
division  took  place  ;  and  to  show  their  gratitude,  they  sang 
a  song  to  a  pleasing  air,  keeping  time  with  their  oars.  They 
gave  us  many  pressing  invitations  to  pass  the  night  at  their 

*  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  817. 


202 


llETURN   TO    FORT    FRANKLIN. 


"V 


}    ? 


■i    .»?' 


i    f 


tents,  in  which  they  were  joined  by  the  mm  ;  and  to  excite 
our  liberality  the  mothers  drew  their  chiidrfln  out  of  their 
wide  boots,  where  they  arc  accustomed  to  carry  them  naked, 
and  holding  them  up,  begged  beads  for  them.  For  a  time 
their  entreaties  were  successful  ;  but  being  desirous  of 
getting  clear  of  our  visiters  before  breakfast-time,  we  at 
length  told  them  the  stock  was  exhausted,  and  they  took 
leivve."* 

The  voyage,  owing  to  the  clear  atmosphere,  the  unen- 
cumbered state  of  the  coast,  and  the  abundant  supply  of 
provisions,  was  pursued  with  ease  and  con.fort ;  and  on  8th 
August  having  made  a  bold  cape,  rising  precipitously  from 
the  Bca  to  the  height  of  350  feet.  Dr.  Richardson  and  Mr. 
Kendall  climbed  the  promontory,  and  descried  in  the  distance 
the  gap  in  the  hills  at  Bloody  Fall,  through  which  the  Cop- 
permine holds  its  course.  Delighted  with  the  prospect  of  so 
near  a  termination  of  their  labours,  they  communicated  the 
intelligence  to  the  crew,  who  received  it  with  expressions 
of  profound  gratitude  to  the  Divine  Being  for  his  protection 
during  the  voyage.  On  reaching  the  river  the  men  were  in 
excellent  condition,  fresh  and  vigorous  for  the  march  across 
the  barren  grounds  on  their  return  to  Fort  Franklin,  which, 
as  already  mentioned,  they  reached  in  safety  on  the  Ist  of 
September.  On  approaching  within  a  few  days*  journey  of 
the  fort,  a  pleasant  adventure  occurred,  characteristic  of 
Indian  gratitude  and  friendship.  The  party  had  supped, 
and  most  of  the  men  were  retired  to  rest,  when  Mr.  Ken- 
dall, in  sweeping  the  horizon  with  his  telescope,  descried 
three  Indians  coming  down  a  hill  towards  the  encampment. 
More  moss  was  thrown  on  the  fire,  and  the  St.  George's 
ensign  hoisted  on  the  end  of  a  musket,  to  show  the  comers 
that  they  were  approaching  friends ;  but  they  hid  the 
youngest  of  their  number  in  a  ravine,  and  approached  slowly 
and  with  suspicion.  Mr.  Kendall  and  Dr.  Richardson  im- 
mediately went  unarmed  to  meet  them,  and  as  they  came 
up  one  held  his  bow  and  arrows  ready  in  his  hand,  and  the 
other  cocked  his  gun  ;  but  as  soon  as  they  recognised  the 
doctor's  dress, — the  same  he  had  worn  the  preceding  au- 
tumn in  his  voyage  round  Bear  Lake,  and  which  was 
familiar  to  most  of  the  Hare  Indians, — they  shouted  in  aa 


*     »* 


FrankUa's  Second  Journey,  p.  22ft. 


ni&'-; 


3  to  excite 
at  of  their 
em  naked, 
For  a  time 
esirous  of 
ime,  we  at 
I  they  took 

the  unen- 
t  supply  of 
and  on  8tl» 
tously  from 
in  and  Mr. 
the  distance 
Lch  the  Cop- 
rospect  of  so 
unicated  the 
expressions 
lis  protection 
men  were  in 
march  across 
nklin,  which, 
m  the  1st  of 
fs'  journey  of 
■acteristic  of 
had  supped, 
-n  Mr.  Ken- 
jpe,  descried 
)ncampntient. 
St.  George's 
N  the  comers 
[hey  hid  the 
►ached  slowly 
ihardson  im- 
is  they  came 
iand,  and  the 
cognised  the 
receding  au- 
which  was 
Louted  in  ap 


BCEClieyti    VOYAGE. 


203 


«cstauy  of  joy,  shook  hands  most  cordially,  and  culhul  loudly 
for  the  young  lad  whom  thoy  had  hid  to  t  i»/ne  up.  »♦  The 
meoting,"  says  Dr.  KichardNon,  "was  highly  giilifying  to 
ourHfllves  as  well  as  to  the  kind  natives  ;  ior  they  seemed  to 
be  friends  come  to  rejoice  with  us  on  the  happy  termination 
of  our  voyage."* 

It  had  nalurully  occurred  to  government,  that  if  the  expe- 
ditions under  Captains  Parry  and  Franklin  should  be  success- 
ful, their  stores  would  bo  exhausted  by  the  time  they  reached 
Bchrin^'s  Strait.  It  was  certain  also  that  Franklin  would 
be  destitute  of  any  means  of  conveyance  to  Europe  ;  and 
to  supply  these  wants  government  resolved  that  a  vessel 
should  be  sent  out  to  await  their  arrival  in  Behring's  Strait. 
For  this  purpose,  accordingly,  Captain  F.  W.  Beochey  sailed 
in  the  Blossom  from  Spithead  on  the  19th  May,  1825.  The 
vessel  was  a  twenty-six  gun  ship  ;  but  on  this  occasion 
mounted  only  sixteen.  She  was  partially  strengthened,  and 
adapted  to  this  peculiar  service  by  increasing  her  stowage. 
A  boat  was  also  supplied  to  be  used  as  a  tender,  built  as  large 
as  the  space  on  deck  would  allow,  schooner-rigged,  decked, 
and  fitted  up  in  the  most  complete  manner.  Cloth,  beads,  cut- 
lery, and  various  other  articles  of  traffic,  were  put  on  board, 
and  a  variety  of  antiscorbutics  were  added  to  the  usual 
allowance  of  provision.  Aware  that  he  must  traverse  a 
large  portion  of  the  globe  hitherto  little  explored,  and  that 
a  considerable  period  would  elapse  before  his  presence  was 
required  on  the  coast  of  America,  Captain  Beechey  was  in- 
structed to  survey  the  parts  of  the  Pacific  within  his  reach, 
of  which  it  was  important  to  navigators  that  a  more  correct 
delineation  should  be  laid  down.  These  observations  were 
not,  however,  to  retard  his  arrival  at  the  appointe<l  rendez- 
vous later  than  the  10th  of  July,  1826  ;  and  he  was  directed 
to  remain  at  Behring's  Strait  to  the  end  of  October,  or  to 
as  late  a  period  as  the  season  would  admit,  without  incurring 
the  risk  of  spending  the  winter  there.  During  this  interval 
he  was  to  navigate  from  Kotzebue's  Sound  northward,  and 
afterward  to  continue  in  an  easterly  course  along  the  main 
shore  as  far  as  the  ice  would  allow.  Captain  Beechey's 
survey  of  various  portions  of  the  Pacific  does  not  fall  within 
the  plan  of  this  work. 

*  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  27 i. 


i 


^    • 


11 


} 


.       \ 

I    f 


204 


NATIVES  OF  CAPE  PRINCE  OF  WALES. 


On  the  2d  of  June,  having  left  the  Sandwich  Isles,  he 
shaped  his  course  for  Kamtschatka,  and  on  the  27th  was 
becalmed  within  six  miles  of  Petropalauski.  The  best 
guides  to  this  harbour  are  a  range  of  high  mountains,  on 
one  of  which,  upwards  of  11,000  feet  in  height,  a  volcano 
is  in  constant  action.  It  was  a  serene  and  beautiful  evening 
when  they  approached  this  remote  quarter  of  the  world, 
and  all  were  struck  with  the  magnificence  of  the  mountains 
capped  with  perennial  snow,  and  rising  in  solemn  grandeur 
one  above  the  other.  At  intervals  the  volcano  emitted  dark 
columns  of  smoke ;  and  from  a  sprinkling  of  black  spots 
upon  the  snow  to  the  leeward  it  was  conjectured  there  had 
been  a  recent  eruption.  From  Petropalauski  Captain  Bee- 
chey  sailed  on  the  1st  of  July  for  Kotzebue's  Sound.  "  W« 
approached,"  says  he,  "  the  strait  which  separates  the  twc 
great  continents  of  Asia  and  America,  on  one  of  those 
beautiful  still  nights  well  known  to  all  who  have  visited  th< 
arctic  regions,  when  the  sky  is  without  a  cloud,  and  when  the 
midnight  sun,  scarcely  his  own  diameter  below  the  horizon, 
tinges  with  a  bright  hue  all  the  northern  circle.  Our  ship, 
propelled  by  an  increasing  breeze,  glided  rapidly  along  a 
smooth  sea,  startling  from  her  path  flocks  of  aquatic  birds, 
whose  flight  in  the  deep  silence  of  the  scene  could  be  traced 
by  the  ear  to  a  great  distance."  Having  closed  in  with  the 
American  shore  some  miles  northward  of  Cape  Prince  of 
Wales,  they  were  visited  by  a  little  Esquimaux  squadron 
belonging  to  a  village  situated  on  a  low  sandy  island.  The 
natives  readily  sold  every  thing  they  possessed,  and  were 
cheerful  and  good-humoured,  though  exceedingly  noisy  and 
energetic.  Their  bows  were  more  slender  than  those  of  the 
islanders  to  the  southward,  but  made  on  the  same  principle, 
with  drift-pine,  assisted  with  thongs  of  hide  or  pieces  ol 
whalebone  placed  at  the  back,  and  neatly  bound  with  small 
cord.  The  points  of  their  arrows  were  of  bone,  flmt,  or 
iron,  and  their  spears  headed  with  the  same  materials. 
Their  dress  was  similar  to  that  of  the  other  tribes  on  the 
coast.  It  consisted  of  a  shirt,  which  reached  half-way  down 
the  thigh,  with  long  sleeves  and  a  hood  of  rein-deer  skin, 
and  edged  with  gray  or  white  fox-fur.  Besides  this  they 
had  a  jacket  of  eider-drake  skins  sewed  together,  which, 
when  engaged  in  war,  they  wore  below  their  other  dress, 
reckoning  it  a  tolerably  efficient  protection  against  an  arrow 


■  ■? 


f     ; 


\     ='|V 


%: 


AURORA   BOREAUS. 


205 


[  Isles,  be 
27th  was 
The  best 
intains,  on 
^  a  volcano 
ful  evening 
the  world, 
mountains 
n  grandeur 
mitted  dark 
black  spots 
3  there  had 
aptain  Bee- 
and.     "Wc 
ites  the  twc 
ne  of  those 
e  visited  the 
md  when  the 
the  horizon, 
.     Our  shipr 
lidly  along  a 
quatic  birds, 
uld  be  traced 
d  in  with  the 
pe  Prince  of 
MX  squadron 
island.     The 
ed,  and  were 
gly  noisy  and 
n  those  of  the 
ime  principle, 
or  pieces  ol 
nd  with  small 
bone,  flint,  or 
ne  materials, 
tribes  on  the 
lalf-way  down 
ein-deer  skin, 
ides  this  they 
rether,  which, 
r  other  dress, 
linst  an  arrow 


I 


I 

I 


I 


or  a  spear-thrust.  In  wet  weather  they  threw  over  the  fur 
dress  a  shirt  made  of  the  entrails  of  the  whale,  which,  being 
well  saturated  with  oil  and  grease,  was  water-tight ;  and 
they  also  used  breeches  of  deer's  hide  and  seal-skin  boots, 
to  the  upper  end  of  which  were  fixed  strings  of  sea-horse 
hide.  It  was  their  fashion  to  tie  one  of  these  strings  round 
the  waist,  and  attach  to  it  a  long  tuft  of  hair,  the  wing  of  a 
bird,  or  sometimes  a  fox's  tail,  which,  dangling  behind  as 
they  walked,  gave  them  a  ridiculous  appearance,  and  may 
probably  have  occasioned  the  report  of  the  Tschuktschi 
recorded  in  Muller  that  the  people  of  this  country  have  tailt 
like  dogs.* 

On  the  22d  July,  the  ship  anchored  in  Kotzebue's  Sound, 
and  after  exploring  a  deep  inlet  on  its  northern  shore, 
which  they  named  Hotham  Inlet,  proceeded  to  Chamisso 
Island,  where  the  Blossom  was  to  await  Captain  Franklin. 
A  discretionary  power  had,  however,  been  permitted  to 
Captain  Beechey,  of  employing  the  period  of  his  stay  in 
surveying  the  coast,  provided  this  could  be  done  without  the 
risk  of  missing  Captain  Franklin.  Having  accordingly 
directed  the  barge  to  keep  in-shore  on  the  look-out  for  the 
land-party,  he  sailed  to  the  northward,  and  doubling  Cape 
Krusenstern,  completed  an  examination  of  the  coast  by 
Cape  Thomson,  Point  Hope,  Cape  Lisburn,  Cape  Beaufort, 
and  Icy  Cape,  the  farthest  point  reached  by  Captain  Cook. 
As  there  were  here  strong  indications  of  the  ice  closing  in, 
and  his  instructions  were  positive  to  keep  in  open  water  if 
possible,  he  determined  to  return  to  Kotzebue's  Sound, 
while  he  despatched  the  barge  under  Mr.  Elson  and  M.  Smyth 
to  trace  the  coast  to  the  north-eastward,  as  far  as  they  could 
navigate. 

On  this  interesting  service  the  barge  set  out  on  17th  Au- 
gust, while  Beechey  returned  towards  Kotzebue's  Sound. 
On  the  night  of  the  25th  they  beheld,  for  the  first  time  in 
these  northern  latitudes,  a  brilliant  display  of  the  Aurora 
Borealis.  "  It  first  appeared,"  says  Captain  Beechey,  "  in 
an  arch  extending  from  west-by-north  to  north-east ;  but 
the  arch  shortly  after  its  first  appearance  broke  up  and  en- 
tirely disappeared.  Soon  afler  this,  however,  a  new  display 
began  in  the  direction  of  the  western  foot  of  the  first  arch, 


*  Beechey's  Voyage,  vol.  i.  p,  341. 

S 


V  li 


I. 


r" 


f 


f 


206         ESQUIMAUX  CHARACTER  AND  CUSTOMS. 

preceded  by  a  bright  dame,  from  which  emanated  corusca- 
tions of  a  pale  straw  colour.  An  almost  simultaneous  move- 
ment occurred  at  both  extremities  of  the  arch,  until  a  com- 
plete segment  was  formed  of  wavering  perpendicular  radii. 
A  soon  as  the  arch  was  complete,  the  light  became  greatly 
increased,  and  the  prismatic  colours,  which  had  before  been 
faint,  now  shone  forth  in  a  very  brilliant  manner.  The 
strongest  colours,  which  were  also  the  outside  ones,  were 
pink  and  green,  on  the  green  side  purple  and  pink,  all  of 
which  were  as  imperceptibly  blended  as  in  the  rainbow. 
The  green  was  the  colour  nearest  the  zenith.  This  magni- 
ficent display  lasted  a  few  minutes ;  and  the  light  had  nearly 
vanished,  when  the  north-east  quarter  sent  forth  a  vigorous 
display,  and  nearly  at  the  same  time  a  corresponding  co- 
ruscation emanated  from  the  opposite  extremity.  The  west- 
em  foot  of  the  arch  then  disengaged  itself  from  the  horizon^ 
crooked  to  the  northward,  and  the  whole  retired  to  the  north- 
east quarter,  where  a  bright  spot  blazed  for  a  moment,  and 
all  was  darkness.  There  was  no  noise  audible  during  any 
part  of  our  observations,  nor  were  the  compasses  percepti- 
bly affected."*  During  the  voyage  back  to  Chamisso 
Island,  where  they  arrived  on  the  27th  August,  they  had 
repeated  interviews  with  the  Esquimaux,  whose  habits  and 
disposition  were  in  no  respect  different  from  those  of  the? 
natives  already  described.  They  found  them  uniformly 
friendly,  sociable,  devotedly  fond  of  tobacco,  eager  to  en- 
gage in  traffic,  and  upon  the  whole  honest,  though  disposed 
to  drive  a  hard  bargain.  On  some  occasions  they  attempted 
to  impose  upon  their  customers,  by  skins  artfully  put  toge- 
ther so  as  to  represent  an  entire  fish ;  but  it  was  difficult  to 
determine  whether  they  intended  a  serious  fraud  or  only  a 
piece  of  humour,  for  they  laughed  heartily  when  detected, 
and  appeared  to  consider  it  a  good  joke.  Their  persons, 
houses,  and  cookery  were  all  exceedingly  dirty,  and  their 
mode  of  salutation  was  by  a  mutual  contact  of  noses  ;  some- 
times licking  their  hands  and  stroking  first  their  own  faces, 
and  afterward  those  of  the  strangers,  t  The  rapidity  with 
which  these  people  migrated  from  place  to  place  was  re- 
markable. On  one  occasion  the  motions  of  two  baidars 
under  sail  were  watched  by  the  crew  of  the  Blossom.     The 


Beechey's  Voyage,  vol.  i.  p.  387.        f  il^id-  P>  345, 391. 


d  corusca- 
lous  move- 
itil  a  com- 
:ular  radii, 
ne  greatly 
lefore  been 
iner.     The 
ones,  were 
pink,  all  of 
e  rainbow, 
"his  magni- 
,  had  nearly 
I  a  vigorous 
ponding  co- 
The  west- 
the  horizonj 
to  the  north- 
loment,  and 
during  any 
ses  percepti- 
o  Chamisso 
st,  they  had 
se  habits  and 
those  of  the! 
n  uniformly 
eager  to  en- 
ugh  disposed 
ey  attempted 
illy  put  toge- 
as  difficult  to 
ud  or  only  a 
jen  detected, 
[heir  persons, 
,y,  and  their 
OSes;  some- 
ir  own  faces, 
rapidity  with 
ilace  was  re- 
two  baidars 
lossom.    The 

I345, 391. 


ELSON  S    EXPEDITION. 


207 


people  landed  at  a  spot  near  Choris  Peninsula,  drew  up  the 
boats  on  the  beach,  turning  them  bottom  upwards,  pitched 
tents,  and  in  an  incredibly  short  time  transferred  to  them  the 
whole  contents  of  their  little  vessels.  On  visiting  the  en- 
campment an  hour  after,  every  thing  was  found  in  as  com- 
plete order  as  if  they  had  been  domiciliated  on  the  spot  for 
months ;  and  the  surprise  of  the  sailors  was  raised  to  the 
highest  by  the  variety  of  articles  which,  in  almost  endless 
succession,  they  produced  from  their  little  boats.  "  From 
the  two  baidars  they  landed  fourteen  persons,  eight  tent- 
poles,  forty  deer-skins,  two  kayaks,  many  hundred-weight 
of  fish,  numerous  skins  of  oil,  earthen  jars  for  cooking,  two 
living  foxes,  ten  large  dogs,  bundles  of  lances,  harpoons, 
bows  and  arrows,  a  quantity  of  whalebone,  skins  full  of 
clothing,  some  immense  nets  made  of  hide  for  taking  small 
whales  and  porpoises,  eight  broad  planks,  masts,  sails,  pad- 
dles, &c.,  besides  sea-horse  hides  and  teeth,  and  a  variety 
of  nameless  articles  always  to  be  found  among  the  Esqui- 
maux."* 

In  the  mean  time,  Mr.  Elson  in  the  barge  proceeded 
along  the  shore  for  seventy  miles,  as  far  as  a  promontory, 
denominated  by  Beechey  Cape  Barrow,  which  was  after- 
ward discovered  to  be  only  distant  146  miles  from  the  ex- 
treme point  of  Franklin's  discoveries.  Upon  this  new  line 
of  coast  posts  were  erected  at  various  distances,  with  direc- 
tions for  Captain  Franklin,  should  he  succeed  in  pushing 
so  far  to  the  westward.  A  frequent  communication  was 
opened  with  the  inhabitants,  who  were  found  to  resemble 
the  other  Esquimaux,  with  the  unpleasant  difference  that 
their  manners  were  more  rude  and  boisterous,  and  their 
conduct  in  some  instances  decidedly  hostile.  Point  Barrow, 
the  most  northerly  part  of  America  yet  discovered,  formed 
the  termination  to  a  spit  of  land  jutting  out  several  miles 
from  the  more  regular  coast-line.  The  width  of  the  neck 
did  not  exceed  a  mile  and  a  half ;  on  the  extremity  were 
several  small  lakes,  and  on  its  eastern  side  a  village.  The 
danger  of  being  shut  in  by  the  ice  was  now  great,  and  Mr. 
Elson  determined  to  land,  obtain  the  necessary  observations, 
erect  a  post,  and  deposite  instructions  for  Franklin.  This 
plan,  however,  was  frustrated  by  the  violent  conduct  of  the 

*  Beechey'a  Voyage,  vol.  i  p.  '10$, 


'\' 


^<i 


7»     » 


h  ^  I ' 


208 


RETURN   OF   BEECHEY. 


natives,  who  assembled  in  formidable  numbers,  and  threat- 
ened to  attack  the  crew  of  the  barge,  which  consisted  only 
of  eight  men.  It  was  therefore  judged  prudent  to  proceed 
as  speedily  as  possible  to  the  rendezvous  at  Chamisso  Island, 
which  they  reac'.ied  on  the  9th  of  September,  not  without 
considerable  difficulty,  having  been  obliged  to  track  the 
barge  round  Cape  Smyth,  through  a  sea  thickly  beset  with 
ice,  that  threatened  every  moment  to  close  with  its  impen- 
etrable walls,  and  cut  off  their  return.  The  result  of  Cap- 
tain Beechey's  voyage,  and  of  the  expedition  undertaken 
under  his  orders  by  Mr.  Elson  and  Mr.  Smyth,  was  the 
addition  of  a  new  and  extensive  line  of  coast  to  the  geogra- 
phy of  the  polar  regions.  The  actual  distance  between  the 
extreme  points  reached  by  Captain  Franklin  and  Mr.  Elson 
being  so  small,  there  is  every  reason  to  belie  ve  that  the 
navigation  of  this  remaining  portion  will  not  be  attended 
with  any  very  formidable  or  insurmountable  obstacles. 

In  the  following  year  Beechey,  in  obedience  to  his  instruc- 
tions, returned  to  Kotzebue's  Sound,  and  recommenced  his 
examination  of  the  coast,  in  the  hope  of  extending  his  sur- 
vey beyond  Cape  Barrow,  and  either  joining  Franklin  or 
collecting  some  certain  intelligence  regarding  his  enterprise. 
In  both  objects  he  had  the  mortification  to  fail :  he  found  the 
posts  erected  the  preceding  year  and  the  buried  bottles  re- 
maining untouched,  and  the  state  of  the  weather  rendered 
it  necessary  to  put  about  before  reaching  Icy  Cape.  It  had 
been  previously  arranged,  that  the  signal  to  be  used  by 
Franklin,  if  he  arrived  on  an  unknown  coast  during  the 
night,  should  be  a  beacon  kindled  on  the  cliffs ;  and,  on 
passing  Cape  Krusenstern  afler  dark,  their  attention  was 
arrested  by  a  large  fire  blazing  on  an  eminence.  Every  eye 
on  board  was  fixed  on  the  welcome  light,  and  every  bosom 
beat  with  the  delightful  expectation  of  soon  seeing  their 
friends.  The  ship  was  brought-to,  and  hope  almost  passed 
into  certainty,  as  a  boat  was  seen  pulling  from  the  shore. 
On  examining  her  through  the  telescope  by  the  light  of  the 
Aurora  Borealis,  some  sanguine  spirits  declared  they  could 
discern  that  she  was  propelled  by  oars  instead  of  paddles, 
and  it  needed  only  a  slight  additional  exertion  of  the  fancy 
to  be  assured  that  the  dress  of  the  crew  was  European.  In 
the  midst  of  these  excited  and  enthusiastic  feelings,  the 
harsh  and  boisterous  voices  of  the  natives  suddenly  broke  on 


ARRIVAL   IN   ENGLAND. 


209 


itid  thteat- 
sisted  only 
to  proceed 
isso  Island, 
lot  without 
,  track  the 
beset  with 
I  its  impen- 
ult  of  Cap- 
undertaken 
th,  was  the 
the  geogra- 
between  the 
a  Mr.  Elson 
ve  that  the 
be  attended 
stacles. 
0  his  instruc- 
mroenced  his 
ding  his  sur- 
Franklin  or 
is  enterprise, 
he  found  the 
d  bottles  re- 
her  rendered 
lape.    It  had 
be  used  by 
.  during  the 
iflfs;  and,  on 
attention  was 
Every  eye 
every  bosom 
seeing  their 
Jmost  passed 
m  the  shore, 
e  light  of  the 
ed  they  could 
d  of  paddles, 
of  the  fancy 
luropean.    In 
feelings,  the 
ienly  broke  on 


I 


their  ear,  and  the  pleasing  picture  which  their  imagination 
had  been  so  busy  in  constructing  faded  away  in  a  moment, 
leaving  nothing  before  them  but  two  sorry  Esquimaux 
baidars  and  their  unlovely  occupants. 

From  this  point  Captain  Beechey's  voyage  presented  few 
features  of  new  or  striking  interest.  In  Behring's  Strait 
they  were  visited  by  a  splendid  exhibition  of  the  Aurora 
Borealis,  and  under  its  coruscations  of  pink,  purple,  and 
green  rays,  which  shot  up  to  the  zenith  in  the  shape  of  a 
f  igantic  cone,  they  anchored  off  Chamisso  Island.  After 
the  discovery  of  two  capacious  harbours,  which  they  named 
Port  Clarence  and  Grantley  Harbour,  they  took  their  final 
departure  from  the  Polar  Sea,  on  the  6th  October,  1827. 
On  the  29th  a  flight  of  large  white  pelicans  apprized  them 
of  their  approach  to  the  coast  of  California  ;  and  after  touch- 
ing at  Monterey  and  San  Bias,  they  arrived  at  Valparaiso 
on  the  29th  April,  1828.  On  the  30th  June  they  passed  the 
meridian  of  Cape  Horn  in  a  gloomy  snow-storm,  and  made 
Rio  on  the  21st  July.  Their  voyage  from  Rio  to  England 
was  completed  in  forty-nine  days,  and  they  arrived  at  Spit- 
head  on  the  12th  October,  1828.  He  found  that  the  expe- 
dition of  Franklin  had  preceded  him  in  his  return  by  more 
than  a  year,  having  reached  Liverpool  on  the  26th  Septem- 
ber, 1827 ;  its  transactions  occupied  two  years  and  nearly 
eight  months,  while  Beechey  had  been  absent  on  his  voyage 
three  years  and  a  half. 

S3 


'iliii 


f 


ffSBf 


•i, 


THE 


NATURAL   HISTORY 

OF   THE 

NORTHERN  REGIONS  OF  AMERICA. 


^' 


•wf 


CHAPTER  V. 


Introductory  Observations. 

Amelioration  in  tlie  Cliaracter  of  European  Intercourse  with  uncivil- 
ized Nations — The  Absence  of  Sandy  Deserts  a  grand  Feature  in  tlie 
Physical  Attributes  of  America — General  Boundaries  of  the  Districts 
afterward  treated  of  in  Detail — Early  Sources  of  Information  regard- 
ing the  Natural  History  of  North  America— General  View  of  the  Fui^ 
countries— Passages  across  the  Rocky  Mountains— Plains  and  Valleys 
along  the  Pacific  Shore. 

The  preceding  historical  narrative  will  have  rendered  our 
readers  familiar  with  the  progress  of  navigation  and  dis- 
covery along  the  shores  of  North  America ;  while  the 
sketches  which  have  been  presented  of  the  journeys  of 
Hearne  and  Mackenzie,  as  well  as  of  the  more  recent  ex- 
peditions of  Franklin  and  Richardson,  will  have  exhibited 
an  accurate  and  interesting  picture  of  whatever  is  most 
worthy  of  record  in  the  history  and  habits  of  the  more  cen- 
tral tribes.  The  unextinguishable  boldness  and  persevering 
bravery  of  the  human  race  are  strikingly  manifested  by  these 
achievements  in  maritime  and  inland  adventure ;  and  while 
we  are  too  often  shocked  by  the  recital  of  deeds  of  violence 
and  bloodshed,  by  unprovoked  and  unpardonable  aggression 
on  the  part  of  the  invaders,  and  by  unsparing  revenge,  in 
retaliation,  by  the  darker  savage,  we  cannot  but  admire  the 
energy  and  reckless  daring  exhibited  on  either  side,  though 
we  may  too  often  regret  the  want  of  a  gentler  and  more 


,.# 


i1 


INTRODUCTORY    OBSERVATIONS. 


211 


CA. 


!With  uncivil- 
Feaiure  in  the 
f  the  Districts 
mation  regard- 
ew  of  the  Fur- 
ins  and  VaUeys 


rendered  our 
ion  and  dis- 
,   while  the 
ourneys  of 
re  recent  ex- 
ive  exhibited 
!ver  is  most 
he  more  cen- 
persevcring 
ited  by  these 
3;  and  while 
s  of  violence 
le  aggression 
r  revenge,  in 
it  admire  the 
side,  though 
ier  and  more 


humanizing  spirit.  In  regard,  however,  to  the  later  expe- 
ditions, especially  those  from  the  British  shores,  the  philan- 
thropist and  philosopher  must  have  been  alike  delighted 
by  the  amelioration  which  has  taken  place  in  our  mode  of 
intercourse  with  the  "  painted  men,"  who  are  no  longer 
massacred  as  the  beasts  that  perish,  but,  even  when  sought 
after  originally  from  motives  not  entirely  disinterested,  are 
yet  regarded  as  beings  in  whom  the  great  Creator  has  im- 
planted the  germ  of  an  immortal  life.  But  by  what  a  cata- 
logue of  crimes  was  the  name  of  Christian  first  made  known 
to  many  nations  of  the  Western  World  ;  and  by  what  cruel 
tyranny  and  the  sword  of  an  exterminating  war  were  not 
the  insidious  pretences  of  peace  so  often  followed  up  by  the 
civilized  nations  of  Europe  !  The  cross  was  indeed  but  a 
vain  and  hollow  symbol  in  the  hands  of  those  blood-stained 
and  avaricious  men,  who  sought  to  plant  upon  a  false  foun- 
dation that  glorious  banner  to  which  God  alone  giveth  the 
increase.  The  last  entry  in  the  following  sumptuous  enume- 
ration was  probably  omitted  in  the  books  of  those  proud 
traders  : — "  The  merchandise  of  gold,  and  silver,  and  pre- 
cious stones,  and  of  pearls,  and  fine  linen,  and  purple,  and 
silk,  and  scarlet,  and  all  thyine  wood,  and  all  manner  ves- 
sels of  ivory,  and  all  manner  vessels  of  most  precious  wood, 
and  of  brass,  and  iron,  and  marble,  and  cinnamon,  and 
odours,  and  ointments,  and  frankincense,  and  wine,  and  oil, 
and  fine  flour,  and  wheat,  and  beasts,  and  sheep,  and  horses, 
and  chariots,  and  slaves,  and — souls  of  wew."* 

We  have  now  to  describe  the  characteristic  features  of 
the  Natural  History  of  the  Northern  Parts  of  America,  a 
task  rendered  comparatively  easy,  in  many  important  par- 
ticulars, by  the  labours  of  those  intrepid  men  the  recital  of 
whose  adventurous  expeditions  by  land  and  sea  has  already 
engaged  the  attention  of  the  reader.  Indeed,  we  know  of 
no  better  or  more  conclusive  argument  against  those  who 
venture  to  doubt  the  propriety  of  scientific  exploration,  on 
account  of  the  uncertain  fulfihnent  of  some  of  our  most 
sanguine  expectations,  than  the  great  advancement  which 
has  recently  been  effected  in  our  natural  knowledge  of  far 
countries.  It  is  true  that  the  north-west  passage  has  not 
yet  been  achieved,  and  it  may  be  true  that  it  never  will  be 

*  Revelations,  xviii.  12, 13. 


■^■l 


d:i 


'il 


^ 


212 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


^: 


achieved,  consistently  with  the  strictly  utilitarian  views  of 
merely  commercial  enterprise  :  but  even  although  we  should 
never  have  it  in  our  power  to  substitute  bad  muskets  for  the 
arrows  and  harpoons  of  the  skin-clad  Esquimaux,  and 
should  be  for  ever  doomed  to  a  continuance  of  our  present 
lengthened  navigation  to  the  eastern  shores  of  Asia ;  still 
it  is  something  to  say  that  we  have  almost  completed  our 
geographical  knowledge  of  the  circumference  of  the  north- 
ern parallels  of  the  earth ;  and  that,  if  the  merchant  cannot 
exchange  his  commodities  by  a  more  rapid  route,  a  stock  of 
intellectual  food  and  a  rich  library  both  of  useful  and  en- 
tertaining knowledge  have  been  already  provided,  and  will 
doubtless  increase  for  the  benefit  of  future  generations.  It 
is  to  the  two  expeditions  under  Sir  John  Franklin  that  we 
owe  the  better  part  of  our  information 'regarding  the  natural 
history  of  the  interior  districts  of  the  fur-countries  of  North 
America  ;  and  although  the  collecting  of  specimens  did  cer- 
tainly form  but  a  secondary  object  in  comparison  with  those 
great  geographical  problems,  the  solution  of  ivhich  was 
looked  forward  to  as  the  principal  and  more  important  re- 
sult, yet  it  is  gratifying  to  know  that  in  the  performance  of 
higher  duties  of  difficult  and  dangerous  achievement,  these 
jresolute  men  neglected  nothing  which  could  in  any  way 
conduce  to  the  completion  of  our  knowledge  of  the  countries 
they  explored. 

Before  entering  into  any  zoological  details,  we  shall  de- 
vote a  brief  space  to  the  consideration  of  one  of  the  most 
peculiar  and  influential  features  in  the  physical  character 
of  the  New  World,  viz.  the  absence  of  sandy  deserts.  It 
has  been  well  observed  that  the  physical  conformation  of 
North  America  precludes  the  possibility  of  those  arid  wastes 
They  result  from  a  want  of  moisture,  and  attach  to  such 
extended  plains,  in  the  more  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
tropics,  as  are  too  vast  and  disproportioned  in  relation  to 
the  quantity  of  rain  which  nature  has  assigned  them ;  for 
there — 

"  No  cloud  of  morning  dew 
Doth  travel  through  the  waste  air's  pathless  blue, 
To  nourish  those  far  deserts." 

They  drink  and  are  for  ever  dry  ;  for  the  castellated  glories 
of  cloud-Land  float  over  them  in  vain  ;  and  even  when  rent 


INTRODUCTORY    OBSERVATIONS. 


213 


1  views  of 
we  should 
ets  for  the 
laux,  and 
ar  present 
Asia;  still 
ipleted  our 

the  north- 
lant  cannot 
,  a  stock  of 
ful  and  en- 
d,  and  will 
rations.     It 
ilin  that  we 
the  natural 
ies  of  North 
lens  did  cer- 
ti  with  those 

;vhich  was 
nportant  re- 
•formance  of 
BHient,  these 
in  any  way 
Lhe  countries 

we  shall  de- 
of  the  most 
cal  character 
.  deserts.    It 
formation  of 
arid  wastes 
ach  to  such 
inity   of  the 
relation  to 
id  them;  for 


blue, 

Hated  glories 
jn  when  rent 


by  thunderbolts,  or  illuminated  by  the  blinding  glare  of  the 
red  lightning,  they  never  hear  the  refreshing  music  of  the 
voice  of  "  many  waters."  Geographical  observation  points 
out  that  whenever  a  continent  or  country  is  expanded  for 
more  than  a  few  hundred  miles  beneath  an  equatorial  sky, 
with  a  surface  comparatively  low  and  flat,  it  will  become  a 
desert.  This  is  nothing  more  than  the  natural  result  of  its 
inability  to  be  supplied  with  moisture.  A  great  proportion 
of  Africa,  the  central  regions  of  Asia,  Arabia,  and  even 
those  parts  of  Hindostan  where  mountains  do  not  prevail, 
have  become  steril  and  deserted.  Vast  chasms  are  thus 
created,  in  which  neither  animal  nor  vegetable  life  can 
flourish. 

New-Holland  probably  owes  its  moisture  to  its  insular 
situation ;  and  the  peninsular  form  is  no  doubt  highly  ad- 
vantageous in  that  respect  to  the  regions  of  Spain,  Italy, 
Greece,  and  Asia  Minor,  while  the  mountain-ridges  of  Hin- 
dostan render  it  essential  service.  It  is  chiefly  owing 
either  to  the  vicinage  of  the  sea,  or  of  some  alpine  tract 
of  territory,  that  those  parts  of  Asia  and  Africa  which  the 
great  deserts  do  not  reach  have  become  the  fit  abodes  of 
the  human  race.  Over  a  great  extent  of  Central  Africa, 
and  some  parts  of  Asia,  along  the  coasts  of  the  Red  Sea 
and  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  there  does  not  seem  to  exist  a 
sufficiency  of  mountain-ranges  to  collect  from  the  atmo- 
sphere such  stores  of  moisture  as  are  necessary  to  fertilize 
those  thirsty  plains,  and  clothe  their  arid  wastes  with  ver- 
dure. No  commanding  Cordilleras  overlook  those  burning 
deserts, — no  upland  vales,  nor  cool  and  cloud-capped  sum- 
mits, each  with  its  huge  recess, 

"  That  keeps  till  June  December's  snow," 

serve  as  the  perennial  fountains  of  refreshing  water. 

Let  us  briefly  consider  a  few  of  the  leading  physical 
characters  of  America,  with  a  view  to  ascertain  the  cause 
of  its  exemption  from  desert  regions.  *  Within  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  tropic,  North  America  is  composed  of  what 

*  See  a  short  paper  entitled  "  The  United  States  are  exempt  from 
Deserts,  and  all  the  Evils  consequent  thereon,"  published  in  Mr. 
Featherstonhaugh's  Monthly  American  Journal  of  Ceology  and  Natural 
Science,    rbiladelpbia,  August,  1831. 


\H\ 

jW 

1 

•^H 

1 

m 

1 

1 

1 

1 

\m\ 

iH( 

./ 


<#«■ 


214 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


« . 


H 
i^ 


^Hk 

■  f 

« 

i 

i 

/  , 

wJ 

:   1 

mMvi 

• 

;;! 

HI 

' 

)i 

may)  comparatively,  bo  regarded  as  a  narrow  slip.     It  en- 
joys all  the  advantages  of  an  insular  position,  and  is  re- 
freshed on  either  side  b^  the  vapours  of  the  translucent 
sea.     Besides,  the  Cordilleras   traverse  the  whole  space, 
rising  upon  the   Mexican    table-land   to   an   elevation  of 
11,000  feet.     All  the  winds  of  heaven,  and  especially  the 
deeply-saturated    trades,    pour    forth    their  never-ceasing 
vapours  on  this  well-disposed  region,  and  clothe  its  length- 
ened slopes  and  undulating  plains  with  all  the  rich  luxu- 
riance of  a  life-sustaining  vegetation.      "  These  friendly 
mountains,  after  upheaving  the  tropical  parts  of  our  con- 
tinent to  the  regions  of  eternal  verdure,  bear  aloft  their 
wide-spread  arms  (the  Chipewyan  and  Alleghany  ranges) 
as  far  as  it  is  necessary  to  counteract  the  heats  of  a  south- 
ern  sun,    and  impart   fertility  to  the   great  valley  of  the 
Mississippi,  which  seems  especially  confined  to  their  fos- 
tering care.     But  when  elevations  become  no  longer  essen- 
tial to  the  certainty  of  moisture  and  vegetation,  they  sink 
into  the  great  plains  of  Canada,  and  disappear.     How  wise 
is  this  arrangement !     For,  if  these  mountains  had  carried 
their  characteristic  elevation  far  north,  they  would  have 
chilled  with  their  eternal  snows   all  the  northern  portion 
of  our  country,  and  rendered  it  barren, — not  from  drought 
and  deserts,   but,  what  is  equally  to  be  deprecated,  the 
blights   of   intolerable   cold.      These   friendly   ranges  of 
mountains  are  thus  the  everlasting  guarantee  of  our  coun- 
try's fertility.     The  Alleghany  range  derives  its  moisture 
from  the  Atlantic,  and  waters  not  only  all  the  states  that 
intervene  between  it  and  that  ocean,  but  the  states  and  dis- 
tricts that  rest  upon  its  western  base,  and  contributes  its 
full  part  to  the  great  plains  of  Mississippi  and  Missouri. 
The  Rocky  or   Chipewyan  range  draws  heavily  from  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  and  abundantly  waters,  not  only  that  slope, 
but  the  extended  plains  which  meet  its  eastern  base.     The 
narrow  slopes  of  the  two  ranges  of  mountains  which  bor- 
der the  two  oceans  are  easily  and  very  naturally  irrigated 
from  those  oceans  ;  and  their  slopes,  pointing  inwards  from 
the  oceans  and  the  plains  immediately  in  contact  with  them, 
draw  moisture  from  the  numerous  founts  and  reservoirs  of 
the  mountains  themselves.     The  great  valley  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, however,  is  too  extensive,  and  too  important  to 
the  rising  generation  of  this  country,  to  be  left  to  any 


INTRODUCTORY    OBSERVATIONS. 


215 


ip.    It  en- 
and  ia  rc- 
ranslucent 
lolo  space, 
levation  of 
)ecially  the 
ver-ccasing 
its  length- 
rich  luxu- 
ise  friendly 
of  our  con- 
aloft  their 
any  ranges) 
of  a  south- 
alley  of  the 
to  their  fos- 
)nger  essen- 
n,  they  sink 
How  wise 
1  had  carried 
would  have 
lem  poTtion 
from  urovight 
recated,  the 
'   ranges   of 
)f  our  coun- 
its  moisture 
states  that 
ates  and  dis- 
antributes  its 
[id  Missouri, 
vily  from  the 
that  slope, 
base.     The 
s  which  bor- 
ally  irrigated 
inwards  from 
ct  with  them, 
reservoirs  of 
of  the  Mis- 
important  to 
left  to  any 


\ 


LI 


uncertain  supply  of  moisture.  The  sources  of  the  mountains 
with  which  it  is  enfiladed  might  prove  to  be  inadequate^ 
and  certainly  would,  if  all  depended  on  them.  Other 
guarantees  are  found,  and  powerful  aids  provided  in  the 
case.  That  great  valley  opens  itself  without  barrier,  on  the 
southern  end,  to  the  trade-winds,  which  become  deflected 
by  the  Mexican  coast,  enter  it  fraught  with  all  the  moisture 
of  the  gulf,  and  deposite  on  this  region  a  supply  literally 
inexhaustible,  because  those  winds  themselves  arc  per- 
petual."* 

But  even  should  the  vast  masses  of  vapour  which  gather 
over  these  majestic  mountains,  and  are  carried  thither  by 
the  trade-winds,  be  insutHeient  to  su[)ply  with  moisture  the 
almost  boundless  plains  of  the  Western  World,  Providence 
has  there  collected  the  mightiest  reservoirs  of  fresh  water 
which  exist  on  the  surface  of  the  known  earth.  The  vast 
lakes  of  Canada,  over  which  the  winds  are  perpetually 
sweeping,  and  from  which  arise  innumerable  clouds  of 
vapour,  ensure  a  never-failing  supply  of  water  to  the  con- 
tiguous portions  of  the  plain.  Thus,  table-lands  and  rocky 
mountains,  a  circumambient  ocean,  and  the  most  magnificent 
internal  reservoirs,  all  co-operate  to  ensure,  especially  to 
the  territory  of  the  United  States,  a  perpetual  supply  of 
moisture.  The  natural  fertility  of  the  soil  is  therefore 
great,  and  yields  abundantly  and  with  certainty  to  the 
wants  of  man.  This  humidity  is  moreover  well-tempered, 
and  is  rarely  poured  forth  in  superabundance.  In  some 
northern  European  countries,  and  even  in  Great  Britain 
and  Ireland,  our  own  familiar  homes,  the  crops  more  fre- 
quently fail  from  excess  than  deficiency  of  moisture.  In 
the  former  case,  the  grain  is  either  blighted  in  the  field,  or 
it  moulds  and  rots  in  the  granary,  or  acquires  a  musty  smell 
and  flavour  which  render  it  unfit  for  the  production  of  the 
finer  breads. 

Wherever  deserts  prevail  to  a  great  extent,  they  not  only 
prevent  vegetation,  and,  consequently,  preclude  the  possi- 
bility of  a  numerous  population,  but  they  also  exercise  a 
prejudicial  influence  over  all  the  habitable  neighbouring  re- 
gions. They  draw  from  them  their  moisture,  and  thus 
render  their  vegetation  precarious.     The  heats  that  steam 


Ibid. 


1 1- 


216 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


1 


from  deserts  enfeeble  the  vegetable  life  of  the  adjoining 
districts,  and  the  sirocco-winds,  collecting  deleterious  mat- 
ters from  their  fevered  surface,  carry  languor,  disease,  and 
death  in  their  course,  and  convert  the  verdant  freshness  of 
nature  into  an  arid  wilderness.  When  the  seasons  and 
the  climate  of  a  country  are  uncertain,  when  no  human 
effort  can  control  them,  and  no  art  or  foresight  render  the 
results  of  labour  available,  the  human  creature  himself  par- 
takes of  the  wildncfls  and  irregularity  of  outward  nature, 
and  is  either  a  victim  of  the  wrathful  elements,  or  a  fierce 
and  relentless  devastator  in  his  turn.  Even  the  very  form 
of  man,  in  connexion  with  deserts,  is  deprived  of  much  of 
its  natural  symmetry ;  it  is  thin,  dry,  emaciated,  and  of  a 
black  or  swarthy  hue.  He  seems  there  formed,  as  it  were, 
to  drift  with  the  sands,  to  move  his  limber  and  clastic  frame 
with  all  the  quickness  that  uncertainty  may  require  ;  but  he 
possesses  not  the  muscular  powers  requisite  to  continuous 
and  effective  labour.  "  In  such  countries  population  is 
sparse,  and  the  few  who  draw  a  scanty  support  from  the 
stinted  and  uncertain  vegetation  are  unfixed  in  their  habits, 
and  wanderers.  They  realize  nothing — improve  not  their 
condition — are  actuated  by  the  sudden  impulses  of  want,  or 
the  emergency  occasioned  by  the  irregularities  of  the  ele- 
ments around  them.  If  industry  exists  not,  and  human 
labour  be  unavailable,  none  of  those  improvements  which 
change  the  condition  of  our  race,  and  give  to  us  character 
and  comfort,  have  any  existence.  Without  surplus  produc- 
tion there  can  be  no  commercial  exchanges  ;  a  limit  is  thus 
placed  to  social  improvement,  and  a  barrier  erected  against 
civilization.  Man,  under  such  a  state  of  things,  cannot 
multiply  his  race,  because  his  supply  of  food  is  limited, — 
nor  create  wealth,  because  his  labour  is  unproductive  and 
without  stimulus, — nor  make  valuable  improvements  in  the 
arts,  comforts,  and  intercourse  of  society,  because  he  has 
neither  the  means  nor  the  necessary  numbers, — nor  can  he 
polish  and  refine  himself,  because  his  state  of  society  is 
essentially  wild  and  violent."*  In  America  the  natural 
condition  and  consequent  tendency  of  all  things  is  widely 
different,  for  the  human  race  is  there  exempted  from  deserts 
and  their  concomitant  evils.     Hence  a  mighty  power  of  fer- 


1 


Ffeutherstoiihaughs  Monthly  American  Joarnal,  vol.  i.  p.  80. 


INTRODUCTORY   OBSERVATIONS. 


217 


B  adjoining 
jriouB  mat- 
lisease,  and 
reshnesB  of 
leasons  and 
I  no  human 
t  render  the 
himself  par- 
krard  nature, 
8,  or  a  fierce 
le  very  form 
of  much  of 
:ed,  and  of  a 
(1,  as  it  were, 
elastic  frame 
quire;  hut  he 
Lo  continuous 
population  is 
port  from  the 
n  their  habits, 
rove  not  their 
ses  of  want,  or 
les  of  the  ele- 
;,  and  human 
ements  which 
,)  us  character 
[urplus  pToduc- 
'a  limit  is  thus 
frected  against 
[hings,  cannot 
1  is  limited, — 
productive  and 
ements  in  the 
jcause  he  has 
i,— nor  can  he 
of  society  is 
the  natural 
Engs  is  widely 
]d  from  deserts 
power  of  fer- 


I  vol.  i.  V 


80. 


tility  is  slumbering  even  among  the  most  unpeopled  wastes; 
and  nothing  is  wanting  l>ut  the  skill  and  perseverance  of 
man  to  make  the  "  desert  bloHsom  as  the  rose." 

"  Pure  element  of  wator»  '.  whercsoe'er 

Thou  (lost  roraake  thy  subterranean  haunts, 

Green  herbs,  bright  tlovvers,  and  berry-bearing  plants 
Rise  into  life,  and  in  thy  train  appear ; 
And,  throuKh  thuHunny  portion  of  the  year, 

Mwit't  inHecta  Hliino.thy  hovering  pursuivants. 

But  if  thy  bounty  Aiil,  the  fureHt  pants, 
And  hart  atid  hind,  and  hunter  with  his  spear, 

Languish  and  droop  togetlior." 

The  portion  of  North  America  with  the  natural  history 
of  which  we  are  now  about  to  be  engaged  is  exclusive  of 
the  southern  parts  of  the  Canadas,  and  of  the  whole  of  the 
United  States.  But  it  comprehends  the  entire  of  those  vast 
territories  which  lie  to  the  northward  of  the  48th  parallel, 
from  the  northern  shore  of  Lake  Superior  to  Melville  Island, 
in  relation  to  latitude ;  and  from  Newfoundland  and  the 
eastern  cape  of  Labrador  to  the  peninsula  of  Alaska,  the 
western  termination  of  the  Russian  dominions  in  America, 
in  regard  to  longitude.*  These  districts  are  very  generally 
known  under  the  name  of  the  American /wr-couw^ric* ;  and 
it  is  indeed  to  the  employes  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany and  other  commercial  travellers  that  we  are  largely 
indebted  for  information  regarding  the  zoological  productions 
of  several  extensive  tracts.  For  example :  the  earliest  collec- 
tions of  the  birds  of  Hudson's  Bay  were  formed  about  ni  ety 

*  In  speaking  or  the  boundaries  of  the  almost  boundless  territories  of 
the  Russian  dominion,  we  feel  inclined  to  qualify  the  expression  by  the 
words  used  in  the  spirited  inscription  engraved  on  the  piece  of  plate  pre- 
sented to  Colonel  Behm.  That  gentleman  was  commandant  of  the 
province  of  Kamtschatka  in  the  time  of  Captain  Cook,  and  had  enter- 
tained the  great  navigator  and  his  crews  in  a  humane  and  irenerous 
spirit.  The  inscription,  of  which  the  composition  is  graceful,  runs  as 
follows: 

ViKO  GOREQio  maono  de  Bbhm  ;  qui  Imperatricis  Augustlssimas 
CatherinsB  auspiciis,  summ&que  animi  benignitate,  saBva.quibus  preeerat, 
Kamtschatkse  littora,  navibus  nautisque  Britannicis  hospita  prsebuit; 
eosque  in  terminis,  si  qui  essent  Imperio  Russico,  (Vust  r-<\  explorandis, 
mala  multa  perpeasos  iterattt  vice  excepit,  refecit,  recryavit,  et  com- 
meatA  omni  cumulate  auctos  dimisit ;  Rki  navalis  BaiTAr'Nic*  skp- 
TKMviKi  in  aliquam  benevolentia:  tam  insignis  memoriam,  amicissimo 
gratiusimoque  animo,  suo,  patriseque  nomine,  D.  D.  D. 

MDCCLXXXI. 


t; 


I 


! 


tV 


■)! 


M 


f 


'■  i:   '1 


218 


NATtTRAL   HISTORY. 


years  ago  by  Mr.  Alexander  Light,  who  was  sent  out  by 
the  company  in  consequence  of  his  knowledge  of  natural 
history.  It  has  been  also  recorded  that  Mr.  Isham,  for  a 
long  time  a  resident  governor  of  various  forts  in  the  fur- 
countries,  occupied  his  leisure  in  preparing  the  skins  of 
beasts,  birds,  and  fishes.  These  two  gentlemen,  we  are  in- 
formed by  Dr.  Richardson,  returned  to  England  about  the 
year  1745,  and,  fortunately  for  the  advancement  of  science, 
intrusted  their  specimens  to  Mr.  George  Edwards,  the  in- 
genious author  of  the  "  Natural  History  of  Birds,  and  other 
rare  undescribed  Animals," — a  publication  which  has  been 
characterized  as  the  most  original  and  valuable  work  of  the 
kind  in  the  English  language.  In  the  course  of  the  year 
1749,  Ellis*  and  Drage,t  the  latter  of  whom  was  clerk  to 
the  California,  published  the  respective  narratives  of  their 
voyage,  both  of  which  tend  to  the  illustration  of  natural 
history. 

Little  information  appears  to  have  been  received  regard- 
ing these  northern  regions  for  about  twenty  years  succeed- 
ing the  last-mentioned  period.  Mr.  William  Wailes  went 
to  Hudson's  Bay  in  1768  for  the  purpose  of  making  ob- 
servations on  the  transit  of  Venus,  and  was  intrusted  on 
his  return  by  Mr.  Graham,  governor  of  the  company's  fort 
at  Severn  River,  with  a  collection  of  quadrupeds,  birds,  and 
fishes,  for  presentation  to  the  Royal  Society.  These  speci- 
mens were  described  by  John  Rein  hold  Forster,;]:  and  ap- 
pear to  have  excited  so  much  attention  that  the  Royal 
Society  requested  that  directions  should  be  given  by  the 
governor  and  committee  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
with  a  view  to  the  more  frequent  and  extensive  collection 
and  transmission  of  objects  of  natural  history.  Accord- 
ingly several  hundred  specimens  of  animals  and  plants,  col- 
lected at  Fort  Albany,  were  transmitted  by  Mr.  Humphrey 
Martin.  His  successor,  Mr.  Hutchins,  was  still  more  in- 
dustrious ;  for  he  not  only  prepared  numerous  specimens, 
but  drew  up  minute  descriptions  of  whatever  quadrupeds 
and  birds  he  could  procure.  It  was  in  fact  from  his  ob- 
servations (preserved  in  a  folio  volume  in  the  Library  of 


'•A 


1    Ilii 


*  Voyage  to  Hudson's  Bay  in  the  Dobbs  and  California, 
t  Voyage  by  Hudson's  Straits. 
%  Philosophical  Transactions,  1772. 


\^' 


n 


INTRODUCTORY    OBSERVATIONS. 


219 


jnt  out  by 
of  natural 
liam,  foT  a 
1  the  fur- 
I  skins  of 
we  are  in- 
1  about  the 
of  science, 
ds,  the  in- 
,  and  other 
li  has  been 
vork  of  the 
)f  the  year 
as  clerk  to 
res  of  their 
,  of  natural 

ived  regard- 
irs  succeed- 
iTailes  went 
making  ob- 
intrusted  on 
npany's  fort 
s,  birds,  and 
rhese  speci- 
er,t  and  ap- 
the  Royal 
;iven  by  the 
[y  Company, 
[ve  collection 
•y,     Accord- 
l  plants,  col- 
:.  Humphrey 
ItUl  more  in- 
specimens, 
quadrupeds 
ifom  his  ob- 
ie  Library  of 

lifomia. 


the  Hudson's  Bay  Company*)  that  Pennant  and  Latham 
chiefly  derived  whatever  was  valuable  in  their  workst  re- 
garding the  feathered  tribes  of  Hudson's  Bay.  Cook's  third 
▼oyage  threw  some  light,  from  circumstances  not  now  very 
efficient,  on  the  species  of  the  north-west  of  America  and 
Behring's  Straits.t  Pennant's  "Arctic  Zoology"  was 
published  in  1785,  and  contains  the  most  ample  descriptive 
catalogue  of  arctic  American  quadrupeds  and  birds  which 
had  appeared  prior  to  Dr.  Richardson's  recent  volumes. 

These  may  be  regarded  as  among  the  more  accurate 
sources  of  information  up  to  the  commencement  of  our  own 
scientific  expeditions  by  land  and  sea, — for  although  Um- 
iiraville  and  Heame  no  doubt  illustrate  the  habits  of  some 
of  the  more  common  species,  and  the  well-known  voyages 
of  Vancouver,  Portlock,  Meares,  and  Langsdorff  to  the 
north-west, — and  the  journeys  of  Lewis  and  Clarke  to  the 
banks  of  the  Columbia,  contribute  to  our  stock  of  know- 
ledge, yet  no  very  important  results  were  thereby  obtained. 
The  naturalists  attached  to  Kotzebue's  expedition  also  ac- 
quired some  information  regarding  the  zoology  of  the 
north-west  coasts  ;  and  the  Appendix  to  Captain  Beechey's 
Voyage,  now  in  preparation,  will  probably  throw  consider- 
able light  on  those  forlorn  regions  of  the  world.  ^ 

*  For  this  information  we  are  indebted  to  Dr.  Richardson.  Fauna 
Boreali-Americana,  vol.  ii.,  Introduction,  p.  xi. 

t  Arctic  Zoology,  and  General  Synopsis  of  Birds. 

i  From  the  want  of  engraved  representations,  and  the  subsequent 
destruction  or  dispersion  of  the  specimens  collected,  it  is  now  difficult 
to  identify  the  species  with  precision. 

^  We  should  gladly  have  availed  ourselves  of  the  information  con- 
tained in  the  Zoological  Appendix  to  Captain  Beechey's  published  voy- 
age, which  we  understand  has  been  for  some  time  printed.  It  has  not 
yet,  however,  made  its  appearance.  Few  specimens  of  quadrupeds 
were  brought  by  that  expedition  from  North  America ;  and  we  are  in- 
formed that  the  only  new  one  was  a  squirrel  trom  California.  Dr. 
Richardson  has  supplied  a  list  of  all  the  mammalia  known  to  inhabit 
the  Paciflc  coast  to  the  north  of  California.  It  includes  70  species,  of 
which  the  following  are  not  in  the  Fauna  Boreali-Americana :  viz.  Canis 
ochropus,  Eschschultz,  Zoologisch.  All.  pi.  2;  Felis  concolor ;  F.  onca; 
six  species  of  seal;  Trichechus  rosmarus ;  Didelpkis  Vvrginiana; 
Arvicola  rubricatus  (Rich.),  described  from  Mr.  Collie's  notes— (this 
animal  was  obtained  in  Behring's  Straits,  but  no  specimen  was  brought 
home ;  it  is  allied  to  Arvicola  aconomus  of  Pallas) ;  Arctomys  caligata, 
Eschsch.pl.  6,  a  species  resembling  Arctomys  pruinosv^  of  FenUAM ; 
and  Sciurus  Colliati  (Rich.),  from  San  Bias,  California. 

We  are  ftirther  informed  that  in  this  fbrthcoming  Appendix,  Mr.  Vigors 
enumerates  nearly  100  species  of  birds;  but  as  the  localities  at  wbicb 


1 


PF^l^ 


220 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


! 


>  IP ' 


'il 


The  most  exact  and  systematic  information  which  we 
possess  regarding  the  zoology  of  the  extreme  northern 
shores  and  insular  groups  of  America  is  contained  in  the 
Appendices  to  the  Voyages  of  Captains  Ross  and  Parry» 
in  Mr.  Joseph  Sabine's  Appendix  to  the  Narrative  of  Sir 
John  Franklin's  first  Journey,  and  in  Dr.  Richardson's 
"  Fauna  Boreali- Americana," — a  work  lately  characterized 
as  an  "  admirable  volume,  which,  while  it  conveys  more 
substantial  information  on  the  subject  of  arctic  zoology 
than  any  publication  that  has  appeared  since  the  time  of 
Pennant,  is  also  highly  valuable  as  correcting  the  occasional 
errors  of  that  excellent  work,  and  adding  all  the  most  use- 
ful and  interesting  information  which  has  been  more  re- 
cently acquired."*  The  best  account  which  we  yet  possess 
of  the  zoology  of  Greenland  is  that  of  Otho  Fabricius.t 
The  ornithology  of  that  country  has  likewise  been  ably 
illustrated  by  Captain  Sabine.^ 

We  shall  now  proceed  to  give  a  concise  general  view  of 
the  nature  of  the  different  tracts  of  country  of  which  we 
are  afterward  to  describe  the  zoological  productions.  This 
we  shall  do  in  conformity  with  the  views  so  lucidly  presented 
by  Dr.  Richardson.^ 

The  Rocky  Mountains  form  the  most  interesting  and 
prominent  feature  in  the  physical  geography  of  North 
America.  Though  much  nearer  the  western  than  the 
eastern  shore  of  that  great  continent,  they  appear  to  form, 
in  relation  to  the  distribution  both  of  plants  and  animals, 
a  strongly-marked  line  of  demarcation,  which  presents  a 
barrier  to  the  progress  or  migration  of  many  species.  No 
doubt,  the  direction  of  this  vast  chain  being  from  south  to 
north,  it  lies  in  the  line  of,  rather  than  at  right  angles  to, 
the  usual  course  of  migration,  and  therefore  opposes  a  less 
formidable  barricade  than  if  it  were  stretched  across  the 
continent.  As  it  is,  however,  the  natural  productions 
which  occur  on  the  plains  on  different  sides  of  this  length- 

they  were  procured  were  not  originally  noted  with  precision,  it  will  be 
the  more  difficult  to  define  the  ranges  of  those  which  characterize  the 
northern  regions. 

Few  northern  fishes  were  obtained ;  but  Mr.  Bennet  has  Aimished  an 
account  of  such  as  were  procured  at  Kamtschatka. 

*  Edinburgh  Review,  No.  1U6,  p.  346.  t  Fauna  Groenlandica. 

t  Memoir  on  the  Birds  of  Greenland.    Linn.  Trans,  vol.  xii. 

$  Fauna  Boreali-Americana,  vol.  i.,  Introduction,  p.  xix.  xxiv. 


i  i 


\ 


INTRODUCTORY    OBSERVATIONS. 


221 


ftirnished  an 


ened  range  exhibit  a  considerable  dissimilarity.  Nature, 
under  the  regulation  of  the  laws  of  Providence,  has  no 
doubt  made  many  exceptions  to  this  rule  in  favour  of  species 
which  occur  on  both  sides  of  the  chain ;  but  the  distribu- 
tion both  of  plants  and  animals,  if  not  regulated,  is  at  least 
modified  by  the  intervention  of  these  mountains. 

This  continuous  chain,  of  which  the  loftiest  peak  attains 
to  an  elevation  of  15,000  feet,  stretches  from  Mexico  in  a 
north-west  direction,  and,  pursuing  a  course  nearly  paral- 
lel with  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  terminates  about 
the  70th  degree  of  north  latitude,  to  the  westward  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  and  within  sight  of  the 
Arctic  Sea.     Though  much  inferior  in  height  to  the  Andes 
of  the  southern  continent,  of  which,  however,  in  a  general 
sense,  they  may  be  regarded  as  the  northern  continuation, 
they  greatly  exceed  in  elevation  the  other  mountain-chains 
of  North  America.     This,  indeed,  becomes  apparent  from 
a  consideration  of  the  courses  of  the  great  rivers  of  the 
country,  all  of  which,  with  the  exception  of  the  lake-born 
St.  Lawrence,   derive  their  sources  and  primary  streams 
from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  however  different  may  be  the 
direction  in  which  their  waters  flow.     The  Columbia,  for 
example,  which  falls  into  the  Northern  Pacific  Ocean  in  the 
46th  parallel,  derives  its  primary  streams  from  the  western 
slopes  of  the  same  rocky  chain,  the  eastern  sides  of  which 
give  rise  to  the  waters  of  the  Missouri,  which,  following  a 
south-easterly  and  southern  direction,  terminate  their  long- 
continued  course  of  4500  miles  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
The  Saskatchawan,  in  both  its  great  branches,   likewise 
flows  from  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and, 
uniting  its  streams  a  short  way  below  Carlton  House,  it 
flows  through  Lake  Winipeg,  and  then,  assuming  the  name 
of  Nelson  River,  it  empties  itself,  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape 
Tatnam,  into  Hudson^s  Bay.     In  like  manner,  the  Mac- 
kenzie, which,  in  respect  of  size,  may  be  regarded  as  the 
third  river  in  North  America  (being  inferior  to  the  Missouri 
and  St.  Lawrence  alone),  derives  its  two  main  branches, 
the  Elk  and  Peace  Rivers,  from  these  mountains ;  and  ere 
long,  flowing  northwards  and  in  h  north-westerly  direction, 
it  opens  its  numerous  mouths  into  the  Polar  Sea,  after  a 
course  of  nearly  2000  miles.     It  may  be  mentioned  as  a 
singular  fact,  that  the  Peace  River  actually  rises  on  the 

T2 


:»1 


I 


:'      il 


V,- 


•1»» 


222 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


western  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  ridge,  within  300  yards 
of  the  source  of  the  Tacootchesse,  or  Fraser's  River,  which 
flows  into  the  Strait  of  Georgia,  on  the  western  shore.* 

At  a  considerable  distance  below  its  issue  from  Great 
Slave  Lake,  and  where  the  Mackenzie  makes  its  first  near 
approach  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  it  is  joined  by  a  large 
stream  which  runs  a  little  to  the  northward  of  the  Peace 
River,  and  flows  along  the  eastern  base  of  the  mountains. 
It  was  called  the  River  of  the  Mountains  by  Sir  Alexander 
Mackenzie ;  but  it  has  since,  on  account  of  its  great  mag- 
nitude, become  more  generally  recognised  by  the  traders 
under  the  name  of  the  South  Branch  of  the  Mackenzie. 
The  Mackenzie  also  receives  several  other  large  streams  in 
the  course  of  its  seaward  journey,  and  among  others  Great 
Bear  Lake  River,  whose  head-waters  draw  their  source 
from  the  imnks  of  the  Coppermine  River,  and  Peel's  River, 
which  issues  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  latitude  67°. 
**  Immediately  after  the  junction  of  Peel's  River,"  Dr. 
Richardson  observes,  "  the  Mackenzie  separates  into  nume- 
rous branches,  which  flow  to  the  sea  through  a  great  delta 
composed  of  alluvial  mud.  Here,  from  the  richness  of  the 
soil,  and  from  the  river  bursting  its  icy  chains  compara- 
tively very  early  in  the  season,  and  irrigating  the  low  delta 
with  the  waiTner  waters  brought  from  countries  ten  or 
twelve  degrees  farther  to  the  southward,  trees  flourish,  and 
a  more  luxuriant  vegetation  exists  than  in  any  place  in  the 
same  parallel  on  the  North  American  continent."t  In  lati- 
tude 68°,  there  are  many  groves  of  handsome  white  spruce- 
firs,  and  in  latitude  6  i°,  on  the  desolate  shores  of  the  Polar 
Sea,  dense  and  well-grown  willow-thickets  cover  the  flat 
islands  ;  while  currants  and  gooseberries  grow  on  the  drier 
hummocks,  accompanied  by  showy  epilobiums  and  peren- 
nial lupins.  The  moose-deer,  the  beaver,  and  the  American 
hare  follow  this  extension  of  a  life-sustaining  vegetation, 
and  the  existence  of  these  herbivorous  animals  induces  a 
corresponding  increase  in  the  localities  of  wolves,  foxes,  and 
other  predaceous  kinds. 

The  above-mentioned  are  the  principal  rivers  which 
traverse  the  fur-countries  of  America.  There  are,  however, 
a  few  others  of  smaller  size,  the  banks  of  which  yielded 

*  Edinburgh  Review,  No.  106,  p.  352, 

t  Fauna  Boreali-Americana,  vol.  i.,  Introduction^  p.  xxii. 


i 


1 

-4* 


INTRODUCTORY  OBSERVATIONS. 


223 


1 300  yards 
ver,  which 

shore.* 
rom  Great 
s  first  near 

by  a  large 

the  Peace 
mountains. 

Alexander 
great  mag- 
the  traders 
Mackenzie. 
I  streams  in 
thers  Great 
heir  source 
•eel's  River, 
atitude  67°. 
[liver,"   Dr. 
I  into  nume- 
i  great  delta 
iness  of  the 
is  compara- 
he  low  delta 
tries  ten  or 

ourish,  and 
Iplace  in  the 
,"t  In  lati- 
Ihite  spruce- 
lof  the  Polar 

iver  the  flat 

Ion  the  drier 
and  peren- 

iC  American 
vegetation, 
s  induces  a 

I,  foxes,  and 

ivers  which 
Ire,  however, 
Jich  yielded 

).  xxii. 


their  share  of  the  natural  history  collections,  and  may 
therefore  be  briefly  noticed.  Hayes  River  takes  its  origin 
from  the  neighbourhood  of  Lake  Winipeg,  and,  afl;er  run- 
ning a  course  almost  parallel  to  that  of  Nelson's  River,  it 
falls  into  the  same  quarter  of  Hudson's  Bay.  York  Factory, 
so  frequently  mentioned  in  the  narratives  of  our  northern 
expeditions,  stands  on  the  low  alluvial  point  that  separates 
the  mouths  of  these  two  rivers.  The  Missinnippi,  or,  as 
it  is  sometimes  called,  the  English  River,  falls  into  Hud- 
son's Bay  at  Churchill.  Its  upper  stream  is  denominated 
the  Beaver  River,  and  takes  its  rise  from  a  small  ridge  of 
hills,  intermediate  between  a  bend  of  the  Elk  River  and  the 
northern  branch  of  the  Saskatchawan.  Lastly,  the  Copper- 
mine River  derives  its  origin  not  far  from  the  east  end  of 
Great  Slave  Lake,  and  pursuing  a  northerly  course,  already 
made  familiar  to  our  readers,  it  flows  through  the  Barren 
Grounds  into  the  Arctic  Sea.  It  is  inferior  in  size  to  several 
branches  of  the  Mackenzie ;  and  as  there  are  few  alluvial 
deposites  along  its  banks,  it  is  deficient  in  that  compara- 
tive luxuriance  of  vegetation  which,  along  the  banks  of  the 
Mackenzie,  induces  several  species  of  herbivorous  quadru- 
peds to  seek  a  higher  latitude  than  they  elsewhere  attain. 
Did  our  limits  permit  we  could  dwell  with  pleasure  on  this 
example  of  the  interconnexion  or  mutual  dependence  of  the 
links  of  a  lengthened  chain  of  facts  in  natural  history. 

There  are  various  practicable  passages  across  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  crossed  them  in  the 
year  1793,  at  the  head  of  the  Peace  River,  between  lati- 
tudes 55°  and  56*^.  The  same  route  was  followed  in  1806 
by  a  party  of  the  North-west  Company,  who  went  to  form 
a  settlement  in  New-Caledonia.  It  is  still  occasionally 
used  by  the  servants  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  In 
the  year  1805,  Lewis  and  Clarke  eflfected  a  passage  at  the 
head  of  the  Missouri,  in  latitude  47°,  on  their  way  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia.  Dr.  Richardson  informs  us,  that 
for  several  years  subsequent  to  that  period,  the  North-west 
Company  were  in  the  habit  of  crossing  in  latitude  62^°, 
at  the  head  of  the  north  branch  of  the  Saskatchawan,  be- 
tween which  and  one  of  the  feeding  streams  of  the  Columbia 
there  is  a  short  portage  ;  but  of  late  years,  owing  to  the 
hostility  of  the  Indians,  that  route  has  been  deserted,  and 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  now  engross  the  whole 


224 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


r,. 


of  the  fur  trade  of  that  country,  make  use  of  a  more 
lengthened  portage  between  the  northern  branch  of  the 
Columbia  and  the  Red  Deer  River,  one  of  the  branches  of 
the  Elk.  or  Mackenzie.  We  are  likewise  informed  that  at- 
tempts have  been  recently  made  to  effect  a  passage  in  the 
62d  parallel  of  latitude  ;  but  although  suveral  ridges  of  the 
mountains  were  crossed,  it  does  not  appear  that  any  stream 
flowing  towards  the  Pacific  was  attained. 

The  latest  journeys  across  the  Rocky  Mountains  with 
which  we  happen  to  be  acquainted  are  those  of  Messrs. 
Drnmmond  and  Douglas,  two  skilful  and  enterprising  bota- 
nists, both  belonging  professionally  to  that  high  class  of 
practical  horticulturists  for  which  Scotland  has  been  long 
famous,  and  of  which  she  is  so  justly  proud. 

Mr.  Drummond  acted  in  the  capacity  of  assistant-natu- 
ralist to  Sir  John  Franklin's  second  overland  expedition,  and 
it  was  to  his  unrivalled  skill  in  collecting,  and  indefatigable 
zeal,  that  Dr.  Richardson  was  indebted  for  a  large  propor- 
tion both  of  the  botanical  and  zoological  productions.  He 
continued  at  Cumberland  House  in  1825,  and  occupied  him- 
self collecting  plants  during  the  month  of  July,  .after  the 
main  body  of  the  expedition  had  departed  northwards.  He 
then  ascended  the  Saskatchawan  for  660  miles,  to  Edmonton 
House,  performing  much  of  the  journey  on  foot,  and  amass- 
ing objects  of  natural  history  by  the  way.  He  left  Edmon- 
ton House  on  the  22d  of  September,  and  crossing  a  thickly- 
wooded  swampy  country  to  Red  Deer  River,  a  branch  of 
the  Elk  or  Athabasca,  he  travelled  along  its  banks  until  he 
reached  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  ground  being  by  this 
time  covered  with  snow.  Having  explored  the  portage-road 
for  fifty  miles  across  the  mountains  towards  the  Columbia 
River,  he  hired  an  Indian  hunter,  with  whom  he  returned 
to  the  head  of  the  Elk  River,  on  which  he  passed  the  winter 
making  collections,  under  privations  which  Dr.  Richardson 
observes,  "  would  have  effectually  quenched  the  zeal  of  a 
less  hardy  naturalist."  He  revisited  the  Columbia  portage- 
road  during  the  month  of  April,  1826,  and  continued  in  that 
vicinity  until  the  1 0th  of  August,  after  which  he  made  a 
journey  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Peace  River,  during 
which  he  suffered  severely  from  famine.  But,  nothing 
daunted,  our  enduring  countryman,  as  soon'  as  he  had  ob- 
tained a  supply  of  provisions,  hastened  back  to  the  Columbia 


XNTRODTTCTORY    OBSERVATIONS. 


225 


a  more 
[i  of  the 
inches  of 
d  that  ai- 
re in  the 
es  of  the 
ly  stream 

ains  with 
f  Messrs. 
sing  bota- 
h  class  of 
been  long 

tant-natu- 
Ution,  and 
lefatigable 
ge  propor- 
tions,   lie 
upied  him- 
,  after  the 
vards.   He 
Edmonton 
ind  amass- 
jft  Edmon- 
r  a  thickly- 
*  l)ranch  of 
ks  until  he 
ng  by  this 
artage-road 
Columbia 
le  returned 
the  winter 
ichardson 
zeal  of  a 
lia  portage- 
lued  in  that 
he  made  a 
er,  during 
It,    nothing 
he  had  ob- 
Columbia 


portage,  with  the  view  of  crossing  to  that  river,  and  bota- 
nizing for  a  season  on  its  banks.  Hov^rever,  when  he  had 
reached  the  west  end  of  the  portage,  he  was  overtaken  by 
letters  from  Sir  John  Franklin,  informing  him  that  it  was 
necessary  to  be  at  York  Factory  in  1827.  He  was  there- 
fore obliged  to  commence  his  return,  greatly  to  his  own 
regret ;  for  a  transient  view  of  the  Columbia  had  stimulated 
his  desire  to  investigate  its  natural  treasures.  "  The  snow," 
he  observes,  "  covered  the  ground  too  deeply  to  permit  me 
to  add  much  to  my  collections  in  this  hasty  trip  over  the 
mountains  ;  but  it  was  impossible  to  avoid  noticing  the 
great  superiority  of  the  climate  on  the  western  side  of  that 
lofty  range.  From  the  instant  the  descent  towards  the 
Pacific  commences,  there  is  a  visible  improvement  in  the 
growth  of  timber,  and  the  variety  of  forest-trees  greatly 
increases.  The  few  mosses  that  I  gleaned  in  the  excursion 
were  so  fine  that  I  could  not  but  deeply  regret  that  I  was  un- 
able to  pass  a  season  or  two  in  that  interesting  region."  He 
now  reluctantly  turned  his  back  upon  the  mountains,  and, 
returning  by  Edmonton  House,  where  he  spent  some  time, 
he  joined  Dr.  Richardson  at  Carlton  House,  on  his  homeward 
journey.  Mr.  Drummond's  collections  on  the  mountains 
and  plains  of  the  Saskatchawan  amounted  to  about  1500 
species  of  plants,  150  birds,  50  quadrupeds,  and  a  consider- 
able number  of  insects.  He  remained  at  Carlton  House 
for  six  weeks  afler  Dr.  Richardson  had  left  that  place,  and, 
descending  to  Cumberland  House,  he  there  met  Captain 
Back,  whom  he  accompanied  to  York  Factory.  He  had 
previously,  however,  had  the  pleasure  of  being  joined  by  a 
countryman  and  kindred  spirit,  Mr.  David  Douglas,  the 
other  indefatigable  collector  to  whom  we  have  already 
alluded.  Mr.  Douglas  had  been  engaged  in  gatherins 
plants  for  three  years  for  the  Horticultural  Society,  in  North 
California  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia  River.  He 
had  crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains  from  the  westward,  at 
the  head  of  the  Elk  River,  by  the  same  portage-road  pre- 
viously traversed  by  Mr.  Drummond,  and  having  spent  a 
short  time  in  visiting  the  Red  River  of  Lake  Winipeg,  he 
returned  to  England  along  with  Mr.  Drummond  by  the  way 
of  Hudson's  Bay.*     "  Thus,  a  zone  of  at  least  two  degrees 

**  Those  enterprising  men  have  been  for  a  consiaerable  period  respec- 
tively  engaged  in  a  second  journey  of  great  extent,  through  various 


Vf'_: 


■»*. 


m. 


226 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


of  latitude  in  width,  and  reaching  entirely  across  the  conti- 
nent, from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  to  that  of  the  Nelson 
River  of  Hudson*s  Bay,  has  been  explored  by  two  of  the 
ablest  and  most  zealous  collectors  that  England  has  ever 
sent  forth ;  while  a  zone  of  similar  width,  extending  at 
right  angles  with  the  other  from  Canada  to  the  Polar  Sea, 
has  been  more  cursorily  examined  by  the  expeditions."* 

That  widely-extended  tract  of  territory  which  lies  to  the 
eastward  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  to  the  north  of  the 
Missouri  and  the  Great  Lakes,  is  now  well  known  to  the 
Hudson's  Bay  traders,  with  exception  of  the  shores  of  the 
Polar  Sea,  and  a  corner,  bounded  to  the  westward  by  the 
Coppermine  River,  Great  Slave,  Athabasca,  Wollaston,  and 
Deer  Lakes,  to  the  southward  by  the  Churchill  or  Missin- 
nippi,  and  to  the  northward  and  eastward  by  the  sea. 
When  viewed  under  a  zoological  aspect,  we  find  that  this 
north-eastern  corner,  more  particularly  known  under  the 
name  of  the  "Barren  Grounds,"  carries  its  purely  arctic 
character  farther  to  the  south  than  any  of  the  other  me- 
ridians. This  very  bare  and  desolate  portion  of  America  is 
almost  entirely  destitute  of  wood,  except  along  the  banks 
of  its  larger  rivers.  The  rocks  of  this  district  are  primi- 
tive, and  rarely  rise  to  such  an  elevation  as  to  deserve  the 
name  of  mountain-ridges,  being  rather  an  assemblage  of 
low  hills  with  rounded  summits,  and  more  or  less  precipitous 
sides.  The  soil  of  the  narrow  valleys  which  separate  these 
hills  is  either  an  imperfect  peat-earth,  affording  nourish- 
ment to  dwarf  birches,  stunted  willows,  larches,  and  black 
spruce-trees, — or,  more  generally,  it  is  composed  of  a  rocky 
debris,  consisting  of  dry,  coarse,  quartzose  sand,  unadapted 
to  other  vegetation  than  that  of  lichens.  The  centres  of  the 
larger  valleys  are  filled  with  lakes  of  limpid  water,  which 
are  stored  with  fish,  even  though  frequently  completely  land- 
locked. More  generally,  however,  one  of  these  lakes  dis- 
charges its  waters  into  another,  through  a  narrow  gorge,  by  a 
turbulent  and  rapid  stream ;  and,  indeed,  most  of  the  rivers 
which  irrigate  these  barren  grounds  may  almost  be  viewed 
as  a  chain  of  narrow  and  connected  lakes.     The  rein-deer  or 

regions  of  North  America.   The  difTerent  departments  of  natural  history 
are  expected  to  gain  a  rich  harvest  by  tbeir  zealous  and  discriminating 
labours. 
"  Fauna  Boreali-Americana,  vol.  i.,  Introduction,  p.  xviii. 


,4*a' 


INTRODUCTORY    OBSERVATIONS. 


227 


caribou,  and  the  musk-ox,  are  the  prevailing  quadrupeds  of 
these  unproductive  wastes,  where  the  absence  of  fur-bearing 
species  has  prevented  any  settlement  by  the  traders.  The 
only  human  inhabitants  are  the  Cfiribou-eaters, — a  people 
composed  of  a  few  forlorn  families  of  the  Chipewyans. 

From  the  district  above  described,  a  belt  of  low  primitive 
rocks  extends  to  the  northern  shores  of  Lake  Superior. 
Dr.  Richardson  calculates  its  width  at  about  200  miles; 
and  he  states  that,  as  it  becomes  more  southerly,  it  recedes 
from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  differs  from  the  Barren 
Grounds  in  being  well  wooded.  It  is  bounded  to  the  east- 
ward by  a  narrow  strip  of  limestone,  beyond  which  there  is 
a  flat,  swampy,  and  partly  alluvial  district,  forming  the 
western  shores  of  Hudson's  Bay.  This  tract,  from  the 
western  border  of  the  low  primitive  tract  just  mentioned  to 
the  coast  of  Hudson's  Bay,  has  been  named  the  Eastern 
District^  and  presents  us  with  seversil  animals  unknown  to 
the  higher  latitudes. 

The  Eastern  District  is  bounded  to  the  westward  by  a 
flat  limestone  deposite ;  and  a  remarkable  chain  of  lakes 
and  rivers,  such  as  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  Lake  Winipeg, 
Beaver  Lake,  and  the  central  portion  of  Churchill  or  Missin- 
nippi,  all  of  which  lie  to  the  southward  of  the  Methye  Port- 
age, marks  the  line  of  junction  of  the  two  formations. 
This  district,  which  Dr.  Richardson  has  named  the  Lime' 
stone  Tract,  is  well  wooded,  and  produces  the  fur-bearing 
animals  in  great  abundance.  The  white  or  polar  bear,  the 
arctic  fox,  the  Hudson's  Bay  lemming,  and  several  other 
species  disappear,  while  their  places  are  filled  up  by  bisons, 
bats,  and  squirrels,  unknown  to  the  other  regions. 

Intermediate  between  the  limestone  tract  and  the  foot  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  there  occurs  a  wide  expanse  of 
what  is  called  in  America  prairie  land.  So  slight  are  the 
inequalities  of  its  surface,  that  the  traveller,  while  crossing 
it,  is  obliged  to  regulate  his  course  either  by  the  compass 
or  the  observation  of  the  heavenly  bodies.  The  soil  is  tole- 
rably fertile,  though  for  the  greater  proportion  dry  and 
rather  sandy.  It  supports,  however,  a  thick  grassy  sward, 
which  yields  an  abundant  pasture  to  innumerable  herds  of 


!  , 


,||* 


^"^ 


228 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


*/»'. 


i  > 


M 


bison,  and  many  species  of  deer ;  and  the  grizzly  bear,  the 
fiercest  and  most  powerful  of  all  the  North  American  land- 
animals,  properly  so  called,  inhabits  various  portions  of 
this  wide-spread  plain.  Prairies  of  a  similar  aspect,  and 
still  greater  extent,  are  known  to  border  the  Arkansa  and 
Missouri  rivers.  They  are  said  to  become  gradually  nar- 
rower to  the  northward,  and  in  the  southern  portion  of  the 
fur^countries  they  extend  for  about  fifteen  degrees  of  longi- 
tude, from  Maneetobaw,  or  Maneetowoopoo,  and  Winipe- 
goos  Lakes,  to  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  These 
magnificent  plains  are  partially  intersected  by  ridges  of  low 
hills,  and  also  by  several  streams,  of  which  the  banks  are 
wooded ;  and  towards  the  skirts  of  the  plains  many  de- 
tached masses  of  finely-formed  timber,  and  pieces  of  still 
water,  are  disposed  in  so  pleasing  and  picturesque  a  man- 
ner, as  to  convey  the  idea  rather  of  a  cultivated  English 
park  than  of  an  American  wilderness.  There  is,  however^ 
so  great  a  deficiency  of  wood  in  the  central  parts  of  these 
plains,  that  "  the  hunters,"  says  Dr.  Richardson,  "  are  under 
the  necessity  of  taking  fuel  with  them  on  their  journeys,  or  in 
dry  weather  of  making  their  fires  of  the  dung  of  the  bison. 
To  the  northward  of  the  Saskatchawan,  the  country  i» 
more  broken,  and  intersected  by  woody  hills ;  and  on  the 
banks  of  the  Peace  River  the  plains  are  of  comparatively 
small  extent,  and  are  detached  from  each  other  by  woody 
tracts :  they  terminate  altogether  in  the  angle  between  the 
River  of  the  Mountains  and  Great  Slave  Lake.  The 
abundance  of  pasture  renders  these  plains  the  favourite 
resorl  of  various  ruminating  animals."^ 

The  preceding  summary  bring«  us  to  the  base  of  that 
vast  and  continuous  chain  already  so  often  mentioned  under 
the  name  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  is  inhabited  by  many 
singular  animals,  some  of  which  do  not  occur  among  the 
lower  grounds  on  either  side  of  the  range.  We  have  already 
stated  our  opinion  regarding  the  character  and  physical 
influence  of  this  extended  group,  and  as  we  shall  ere  long 
describe  the  most  remarkable  of  its  zoological  productions, 
we  shall  in  the  mean  time  request  the  reader  to  descend 
with  us  towards  the  western  or  Pacific  shores.     There  we 


*  Fauna  Boreali- Americana,  vol.  i.,  Introduction,  p.  xxix. 


'-^ 


i'.    '■ 


INTRODUCTORY    OBSERVATIONS. 


229 


r  bear,  the 
rican  land- 
ortiona  of 
Bpect,  and 
■kansa  and 
lually  nar- 
tion  of  the 
IS  of  longi- 
id  Winipe- 
18.     These 
3ges  of  low 
I  banks  are 

many  de- 
jces  of  still 
que  a  man- 
ed  English 
IS,  howevery 
its  of  these 

"  are  under 
irneys,  or  in 
if  the  bison. 

country  i» 
and  on  the 
imparatively 
)T  by  woody 
between  the 

,ake.     The 

le  favourite 


Ibase  of  that 

ioned  under 

[ted  by  many 

among  the 

Liave  already 

ind  physical 

lall  ere  long 

[productions, 

to  descend 

There  we 

).  xxix. 


find  sevorai  interesting  tracts  of  country,  with  the  natural 
history  of  which  we  are,  liowcver,  more  imperfectly  ac- 
quainted than  we  should  desire. 

The  countries  between  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the 
Pacific  are  in  general  of  a  more  hilly  nature  than  those 
already  described  to  the  eastward  ;  but  the  upper  branches 
of  the  Columbia  are  skirted  by  extensive  plains,  which 
present  the  same  general  character  as  those  of  the  Missouri 
and  Saskatchawan.  New-Caledonia  extends  from  north  to 
south  about  500  miles,  and  from  east  to  west  about  350  or 
400.  Its  central  post  at  Stewart's  Lake  is  placed  in  north 
latitude  54^,  and  west  longitude  125  degrees.  According  to 
Mr.  Harmon,  it  contains  so  many  lakes  that  about  one-sixth 
of  its  entire  surface  is  under  water.  The  weather  here  is 
much  milder  than  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  mountains, — an 
amelioration  which  is  no  doubt  owing  to  the  comparatively 
narrow  extent  of  land  which  intervenes  between  the  moun- 
tains and  the  sea.*  However,  for  a  few  days  during  the 
depth  of  winter  it  must  be  "  pretty  considerably"  cold,  as 
the  thermometer  is  said  i.»  descend  for  a  time  to  about  thirty- 
two  degrees  below  zero  of  Fahrenheit.  Snow  generally  falls 
about  the  15th  of  November,  and  disappears  by  the  15th  of 
May  ;t  from  which  the  winter  may  be  fairly  inferred  to 
be  of  shorter  duration  by  about  one-third  than  it  is  in 
some  places  situated  under  the  same  latitude  on  the  other 
side. 

The  only  remaining  district  of  North  America  to  which 
we  need  here  allude,  as  falling  within  the  scope  of  the 
present  volume,  is  that  forlorn  region  in  the  north-west  cor- 
ner of  the  continent,  which  forms  the  terminating  portion 
of  the  vast  Russian  dominions.  Its  shores  have  been  coasted 
by  Cook,  Kotzebue,  and  Beechey ;  but  of  its  iriterior  nature 
and  productions  we  are  more  sparingly  informed.  Dr. 
Richardson,  indeed,  reports,  from  information  given  by  the 
few  Indians  of  Mackenzie's  River  who  have  ever  crossed 
the  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  that  northern  quarter, 
that  on  their  western  side  there  is  a  tract  of  barren  ground 
frequented  by  rein-deer  and  musk-oxen ;  and  it  may  also  be 

*  Edinburgh  Review,  No.  106,  p.  355. 

t  .Tournal  of  Voyages  and  Travels  in  the  I  tenor  of  North  America, 
between  the  forty-seventh  and  fifty-eighth  degrees  rf  latitude,  by  Daniel 
William  Harmon,  a  partner  in  the  North-west  Company.   Andover,  1820. 

u 


I  .    ( 


t    I 

■il  ill 


230 


NATURAL   inSTORV. 


inferred,  from  the  quantity  of  furs  procured  by  the  Rusaian 
company,  that  woody  regions,  similar  to  such  as  exist  to 
the  eastward  of  the  niountuins,  also  occur  in  this  north-west 
corner  of  America. 


I 


CHAPTER  VI. 


The  Quadrupeds  of  the  Northern  Regions  of  America* 

Inaccuracies  of  some  Historical  Writers— No  Monkeys  in  North  America 
—Bats— Slirewmice— Genus  Scalops,  or  8h re winoie— Other  Moles  of 
America— Tlie  Star-nose— Various  Bears— Different  digitated  Quadru- 
peds—The Canada  Ottf-r— The  Sea-otter— The  Dogs  and  Wolves  of 
America— The  Foxes— The  Beaver— The  Musk-rat— Meadow  Mice  and 
Lemmings— The  Rocky  Mountain  Neotoma— The  American  Field- 
mouse—The  Marmots— The  Squirrel  Tribe — The  Canada  Porcupine — 
The  American  Hare— The  Polar  Hare— The  Prairie  Hare— The  Little 
Chief  Hare- Genus  Cervus— The  Elk,  or  Moose-deer — The  Rein-deer 
— The  Woodland  Caribou — The  Rocky  Mountain  Sheep— The  Rocky 
Mountain  Goat — The  Bison,  or  American  Buffalo— Tlie  Musk-ox. 

Having  in  the  preceding  chapter  exhibited  a  general  sketch 
of  some  of  the  prevailing  features  in  the  physical  geography 
of  the  northern  countries  of  Aiiierica,  we  shall  now  proceed 
to  a  more  detailed  and  systematic  account  of  their  natural 
history.  But,  in  the  first  place,  we  may  notice  a  slight  in- 
accuracy which  prevails  in  regard  to  the  comparative  size 
of  the  ferine  inhabitants  of  the  Old  and  New  World. 
"  Nature,"  says  Dr.  Robertson,*  "  was  not  only  less  prolific 
in  the  New  World,  but  she  appears  likewise  to  have  been 
less  vigorous  in  her  productions.  The  animals  originally 
belonging  to  this  quarter  of  the  globe  appear  to  be  of  an 
inferior  race,  neither  so  robust  nor  so  fierce  as  those  of  the 
other  continent.  America  gives  birth  to  no  creature  of  such 
bulk  as  to  be  compared  with  the  elephant  or  rhinoceros,  or 
that  equals  the  lion  and  tiger  in  strength  and  ferocity.  The 
tapir  of  Brazil,  the  largest  quadruped  of  the  ravenous  tribe 
in  the  New  World,  is  not  larger  than  a  calf  of  six  months 
old.     The  puma  and  jaguar,  the  fiercest  beasts  of  prey, 

*  In  his  History  of  America. 


jlf 


QUADRUPEDS. 


231 


le  Russian 
as  exist  to 
north-west 


America* 

North  America 
Other  Moles  of 
eitated  Quadru- 
and  Wolves  of 
eadow  Mice  and 
rnerican  Field- 
ada  Porcupine— 
[are— The  Little 
—The  Rein-deer 
lep— The  Rocky 
e  Musk-ox. 

jeneral  sketch 
bal  geography 
'  now  proceed 
their  natural 
ce  a  slight  in- 
nparative  size 
:^ew  World, 
y  less  prolific 
to  have  been 
lals  originally 
ir  to  be  of  an 
.s  those  of  the 
eature  of  such 
rhinoceros,  or 
'erocity.     The 
ravenous  tribe 
of  six  months 
jasts  of  prey» 


which  Europeans  have  inaccurately  denominated  lions  and 
tigers,  possess  neither  the  undaunted  courage  of  the  former, 
nor  the  ravenous  cruelty  of  the  latter.  *  They  are  inactive 
and  timid,  hardly  formidable  to  man,  and  often  turn  their 
backs  upon  the  least  appearance  of  resistance,  t  The  same 
qualities  in  the  climate  of  America  which  stinted  the  growth 
and  enfeebled  the  spirit  of  its  native  animals  have  proved 
pernicious  to  such  as  have  migrated  into  it  voluntarily  from 
the  other  continent,  or  have  been  transported  thither  by  the 
Europeans.!  The  bears,  the  wolves,  the  deer  of  America, 
are  not  equal  in  size  to  those  of  the  Old  WorM."<^  Now 
this  idea  that  the  quadrupeds  of  the  New  World  ire  smaller 
than  those  of  the  Old  is  correct  only  in  relation  to  the 
southern  regions  of  each.  The  elephant  and  rhinoceros 
of  India  are  of  much  more  vast  dimensions  than  the  tapir 
and  lama  of  South  America ;  but  "  the  bears,  wolves,  and 
deer"  of  North  America  are  much  larger  than  those  of 
Europe,  and  the  reptiles  of  that  same  quarter  of  the  globe 
are  infinitely  larger  than  any  which  occur  in  corresponding 
latitudes  of  the  ancient  continent.  Even  in  regard  to  the 
feline  tribes  which  the  great  Scotch  historian  considered  as 
so  inferior  in  the  New  World,  perhaps  there  is  less  disparity 
than  is  usually  supposed.  BufTon's  observations  on  the 
"  cowardly  tigers"  of  the  new  continent  are  known  to  be 
applicable  to  the  small  species  called  the  ocelot ;  and  it  is 
ascertained  that  the  real  jaguar  of  the  Orinoco  sometimes 
leaps  into  the  water  and  seizes  the  Indians  in  their  canoes, 
— a  practice  not  entirely  consistent  with  the  idea  of  its  fear- 
ing the  face  of  man.  Let  us  peruse  the  following  pas- 
sages from  the  writings  of  Humboldt : — "  The  night  was 
gloomy  ;  the  Devil's  Wall  and  its  denticulated  rocks  ap- 
peared from  time  to  time  at  a  distance,  illumined  by  the 
burning  of  the  savannas,  or  wrapped  in  ruddy  smoke.  At 
the  spot  where  the  bushes  were  the  thickest,  our  horses 
were  frightened  by  the  yell  of  an  animal  that  seemed  to  fol- 


Margravii  Hist.  Nat.  Brazil, 
34.    Pisonis,  Hist.  p.  6. 


*  Buffon,  Hist.  Nat.  torn.  ix.  p.  87. 
p.  229. 

t  Ibid.  ix.  13,  203.    Acosta,  Hist.  lib.  iv.  c. 
Herrera,  dec.  4,  lib.  iv.  c.  1.  lib.  x.  c.  13. 

X  Churchill,  v.  p.  6tfl.    Ovalle,  Relat.  of  Chili.    Churchill,  iii.  p.  10. 
Sommario  de  Oviedo,  c.  14-22.    Voyage  du  Des  Marchais,  iii.  299. 

^  Buflbn,  Hist.  Nat.  ix.  103.    Kalm'a  Travels,  i.  103.    Biet.  Voy.  de 
France  Equinox,  p.  339. 


\  '^l 


g<*" 


232 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


U 


low  us  closely.  It  was  a  large  jaguar  that  had  roamed  for 
three  years  among  these  mountains.  He  had  constantly 
escaped  the  pursuit  of  the  boldest  hunters,  and  had  carried 
ofT  horses  and  mules  from  the  midst  of  enclosures  ;  but, 
having  no  want  of  food,  had  not  yet  attacked  men.  The 
negro  who  conducted  us  uttered  wild  cries.  He  thought 
he  should  frighten  the  jaguar ;  but  these  means  were  of 
course  without  effect.  The  jaguar,  like  the  wolf  of  Europe, 
follows  travellers  even  when  he  will  not  attack  them  ;  the 
wolf  in  the  open  fields  and  unsheltered  places,  the  jaguar 
skirting  the  road,  and  appearing  only  at  intervals  between  the 
bushes."*  The  same  illustrious  observer  also  remarks, — 
"  Near  the  Joval,  nature  assumes  an  awful  and  savage  as- 
pect. We  there  saw  the  largest  jaguar  we  had  ever  met 
with.  The  natives  themselves  were  astonished  at  its  pro- 
digious length,  which  surpassed  that  of  all  the  tigers  of 
India  I  had  seen  in  the  collections  of  Europe."t 

The  first  fact  to  which  we  shall  here  allude  is  one  of  a 
negative  character,  viz.  the  entire  absence  of  the  monkey 
tribe,  commonly  called  the  Quadrumanous  ordery  from  the 
countries  of  our  present  disquisition.  The  climate  is  too 
rigorous  and  variable  for  that  **  pigmy  people." 

Of  the  next  order,  the  Cheiroptera  or  bats,  there  are 
several  North  American  species,  of  which  we  shall  here 
name  only  the  Vesper tilio  subulatus  of  Say,  a  small-bodied 
species,  common  near  the  eastern  base  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, on  the  upper  branches  of  the  Peace  River  and 
Saskatchawan. 

The  slender  and  delicately-formed  tribe  of  shrewmice  are 
well  known  in  America.  Forster's  shrew  (Sorex  Forsterif 
Rich.)  is  widely  spread  over  the  whole  of  the  fur-countries 
as  far  as  the  sixty-seventh  degree  of  north  latitude ;  and 
wherever  the  snow  is  sufficiently  firm  to  retain  the  impres- 
sion, its  little  footmarks  are  seen  throughout  the  dreary  winter. 
Dr.  Richardson  often  traced  its  paths  to  the  top  of  a  stalk  of 
grass,  by  which  it  appeared  to  desi  end  from  the  surface  of 
the  deep  snow ;  but  he  always  sought  in  vain  for  its  habita- 
tion beneath.  This  is  the  smallest  quadruped  with  which 
the  Indians  are  acquainted,  and  they  carefully  preserve  its 


•  Personal  Narrative,  vol.  iv.  p.  176. 


t  Ibid.  p.  427. 


•w 


"IK^ 


QUADRUPEDS. 


233 


amed  for 
onstantly 
id  carried 
res  ;  but, 
en.     The 
e  thought 
s  were  of 
if  Europe, 
hem ;  the 
he  jaguar 
'tween  the 
emarks,— 
savage  as- 
1  ever  met 
at  its  pro- 
tigers  of 


is  one  of  a 
le  monkey 
,  from  the 
nate  is  too 

there  are 
shall  here 
nail-bodied 
cky  Moun- 
River  and 

jwmice  are 
'.X  Forsteri, 
r-countries 
Ltude ;  and 
;he  impres- 
ary  winter, 
f  a  stalk  of 
surface  of 
'  its  habita- 
with  which 
)reserve  its 

).  427. 


■I 

'J 


ekin  in  their  conjuring  bags.  It  has  been  a  source  of  won- 
der and  admiration  how  the  vital  power  should  preserve  its 
delicate  limbs  from  freezing  in  a  country  where  the  winter 
temperature  sinks  to  fifty  degrees  below  zero.  Of  this 
species  the  tail  is  of  a  square  form,  and  of  the  same  length 
with  the  head  and  body,  which  together  measure  rather 
more  than  a  couple  of  inches.  The  ears  are  short  and 
furry,  the  back  is  of  a  clove-brown  colour,  and  the  under 
parts  are  pale  yellowish  brown. 

A  singular  animal  (classed  under  the  genus  Scalops  of 
Cuvier)  is  known  to  the  American  naturalists  by  the  name 
of  shrewraole.  It  has  a  thick  cylindrical  body,  resembling 
that  of  the  common  mole,  without  any  distinct  neck.  Its 
limbs  are  very  short,  and  appear  remarkably  so  in  conse- 
quence of  their  being  enveloped  in  the  skin  of  the  body  as 
far  as  the  wrists  and  ankle-joints.  The  snout  is  linear  and 
moveable,  and  projects  above  the  third  of  an  inch  beyond 
the  incisive  teeth.  The  eyes  are  concealed  by  the  fur,  and 
are  so  exceedingly  small,  according  to  Dr.  Godman,  that  the 
aperture  of  the  skin  is  just  large  enough  to  admit  the  entrance 
of  an  ordinary-sized  human  hair.  The  paws  closely  resemble 
those  of  the  European  mole,  and  the  fur  has  the  same  rich 
velvety  appearance.  It  is  of  a  brownish-black  colour,  with 
a  slight  chestnut  tinge  upon  the  forehead,  and  somewhat 
paler  on  the  throat. 

Considerable  confusion  exists  in  the  history  of  the  Ame- 
rican moles,  and  it  is  still  a  matter  of  doubt  whether  any 
true  mole  (of  the  genus  Talpa)  inhabits  the  New  World. 
"  Before  the  sun  rose,"  says  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie, 
"  our  guides  summoned  us  to  proceed,  when  we  descended 
into  a  beautiful  valley,  watered  by  a  small  river.  At  eight 
we  came  to  the  termination  of  it,  when  we  saw  a  great 
number  of  moles."*  Now,  in  this  country,  though  mole- 
hills  are  abundant,  it  seldom  happens  that  we  see  of  the 
creatures  themselves  more  than  one  at  a  time,  and  even 
that  but  rarely.  From  this  it  may  perhaps  be  inferred  that 
the  species  are  distinct.  However,  the  one  which  we  have 
described  above  is  frequent  on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia 
and  the  neighbouring  coasts  of  the  Pacific.  According  to 
Lewis  and  Clarke,  "  it  differs  in  no  respect  from  the  species 

*  Voyages  from  Montreal,  on  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  through  the 
Continent  of  North  America,  to  the  Frozen  and  Pacific  Oceans,  p.  314. 

U2 


tMH 

' 

'•JIj! 

i 

Il 

H 


y 


III 


234 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


80  common  in  the  United  States."*  The  northern  range 
of  the  shrewmole  is  still  unknown.  It  is  supposed  not 
to  advance  beyond  the  fiftieth  degree  of  latitude,  because 
its  favourite  food  consists  of  earth-worms,  which  are  un- 
known in  the  countries  of  Hudson's  Bay,  although  it  may 
probably  reach  a  somewhat  higher  latitude  along  the  milder 
Pacific  shores.  Its  general  habits  resemble  those  of  our 
own  kind.  It  is  a  subterranean  dweller,  excavates  gal- 
leries, throws  up  mounds,  and  feeds  on  insects.  This  spe- 
cies is  said  to  have  the  singular  custom  of  coming  to  the 
surface  exactly  at  noon,  A  domesticated  individual  kept 
by  Mr.  Titian  Peale  was  lively,  playful,  and  familiar ;  it 
would  follow  the  hand  of  its  feeder  by  the  scent,  and  then, 
after  burrowing  for  a  short  distance  in  the  loose  earth,  and 
making  a  small  circuit,  would  return  again  for  a  supply  of 
food.  It  fed  on  fresh  meat,  either  cooked  or  raw,  and  was 
observed  to  drink  freely,  t 

Another  singu!ar  subterranean  species  is  the  long-tailed 
mole  of  Pennant  (Condylura  longicaudata,  Harlan).  The 
length  of  this  animal,  exclusive  of  the  tail,  is  nearly  five 
inches.  It  is  covered  with  a  brownish-black  velvety  coat 
of  fur,  and  the  extremity  of  its  snout  is  furnished  with  h 
cartilaginous  fringe  of  eighteen  rays,  with  two  short  bifid 
ones  beneath  the  nostrils.  It  is  from  these  appendages 
that  it  has  obtained  the  name  of  star-nose.  Specimens 
were  transmitted  to  the  Zoological  Society  from  Moose 
Factory,  Hudson's  Bay.  It  is  called  naspass-kasic  by  the 
Salteur  Indians. 

We  come  now  to  the  group  of  bears  (genus  Ursus\ 
which  includes  the  largest  and  most  powerful  of  the  Ame- 
rican beasts  of  prey.  It  is  natural  to  suppose  that  animals 
of  almost  gigantic  size,  of  great  strength,  and  ferocious 
habits  would  be  too  formidable  and  dangerous  to  the  hu- 
man race  to  remain  unknown  in  any  of  their  distinguish- 
ing characteristics.  Yet  the  specific  differences  of  the 
black  and  brown  bears  of  Europe  and  America  are  still 
insufficiently  illustrated.  Both  continents  produce  a  black 
bear  and  a  brown  one, — the  white  or  polar  bear  is  com- 


*  Travels  to  the  Source  of  the  Missouri  River,  vol.  iii.  p.  42. 

t  AXnerioan  Natural  History,  by  John  D.  Godman,  M.D.,  vol.  i.  p.  84. 


QUADRUPEDS. 


235 


Bm  range 
(osed   not 
I,  because 
h  are  un- 
gh  it  may 
the  niilder 
ose  of  our 
vates  gal- 
This  spe- 
ng  to  the 
idual  kept 
imiliar;  it 
,  and  then, 
earth,  and 
i  supply  of 
Ny  and  was 

long-tailed 
■Ian).     The 

nearly  five 
velvety  coat 
shed  with  a 
)  short  bifid 
appendages 

Specimens 
rom  Moose 
•ask  by  the 


lus    Ursus)^ 

)f  the  Ame- 
lat  animals 

,d  ferocious 
to  the  hu- 

Idistinguish- 
ices  of  the 
ica  are  still 
luce  a  black 
lear  is  com- 


J  42. 

I,' vol.  I.  p.  84. 


mon  to  the  northern  latitudes  of  each,  while  America  alone 
is  inhabited  by  the  grizzly  bear,  Ursus  ferox. 

The  black  bear  of  the  New  World  ( Ursus  Americanus) 
has  a  more  arched  forehead  than  the  analogous  species 
of  Europe.  Its  nose  is  continued  on  the  same  line  with 
the  forehead,  and  is  also  somewhat  arched,  which  produces 
one  of  its  most  striking  physiognomical  characters.  Its 
ears  are  high,  oval,  rounded  at  the  tips,  and  are  placed  wide 
apart  from  each  other.  Its  fur  is  long,  straight,  black,  and 
shining,  with  the  exception  of  a  large  pale  yellowish-brown 
spot  on  each  side  of  the  muzzle.  The  bare  extremity  of 
the  nose  is  more  obliquely  truncated  than  that  of  the  brown 
bear,  and  the  palms  and  soles  of  the  feet  are  comparatively 
shorter  than  in  that  species.  This  is  the  least  of  the 
American  bears,  and  seldom  exceeds  five  feet  in  length. 
Its  disposition  is  also  milder,  and  its  diet  consists  of  a 
greater  proportion  o*"  vegetable  substances.  It  feeds  on 
various  kinds  of  root-*  a  '  wild  berries,  as  well  as  on  insects, 
eggs,  birds,  quadrup'  ind  fish.      In  short,  it  may  be 

said  to  be  omnivoroui-,  .i^e  the  rest  of  its  congeners,  with 
this  difference,  that  when  it  happens  to  be  amply  supplied 
with  a  favourite  vegetable  food,  it  will  pass  the  carcass  of  a 
deer  or  other  quadruped  untouched.  It  may  be  character- 
ized as  rather  a  timid  animal,  and  seldom  ventures  to  face 
a  human  foe,  unless  when  hemmed  into  a  corner,  or  im- 
boldened  by  the  strength  of  parental  affection.  Its  speed 
is  generally  said  not  to  be  very  great ;  but  Dr.  Richardson 
states  that  he  has  seen  a  black  bear  make  off  with  a  rapidity 
that  would  have  baffled  the  fleetest  runner,  and  ascend  a 
nearly  perpendicular  cliff  with  a  facility  "  that  a  cat  might 
envy." 

This  species,  when  resident  in  the  fur-countries,  sleeps 
throughout  the  winter,  generally  under  a  fallen  tree,  after 
having  scraped  away  a  portion  of  the  soil.  The  first 
heavy  fall  of  snow  covers  it  up,  and  secures  it  from  an 
undue  intensity  of  cold.  In  regard  to  distribution,  it  is 
widely  spread  over  all  the  wooded  districts  of  America,  from 
Carolina  to  *he  Arctic  Sea,  and  across  the  whole  of  the  con- 
tinent from  east  to  west.  It  is,  however,  less  abundant  near 
the  seacoasts  than  in  the  interior  countriep.  "  The  skin  of 
a  black  bear,  with  the  fur  in  prime  order,  and  the  claws 
appended,  was  at  one  period  worth  from  twenty  to  forty 


I 


t 


I     i 


i     1 


f 


>l 


236 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


guineas,  and  even  more  ;  but  at  present  the  demand  for 
them  is  so  small,  from  their  being  little  used  either  for  muffs 
or  hammercloths,  that  the  best,  I  believe,  sell  for  less  than 
forty  shillings."* 

As  both  the  black  and  grizzly  bears  vary  greatly  in  the 
colour  of  their  coats,  according  to  age  and  season,  the  sup- 
posed brown  bear  of  America  is  alleged  by  some  to  have 
arisen  from  one  or  other  of  these  variations.    From  inquiries 
made  by  Dr.  Richardson  throughout  an  extent  of  ten  de- 
grees of  latitude,  from  Lake  Superior  to  Great  Slave  Lake, 
fie  could  not  ascertain  that  the  natives  of  these  districts  were 
acquainted  with  more  than  two  species  of  land  bear,  viz.  the 
one  above  described,  and  the  grizzly  species.     He  found, 
however,  that  the  barren  lands  which  lie  to  the  north  and 
east  of  Great  Slave  Lake,  and  stretch  thence  to  the  Polar 
Sea,  are  frequented  by  a  bear  which  differs  from  those 
species,  and  presents  a  nearer  affinity  to  the  brown  bear  of  the 
Scandinavian  peninsula.     Its  general  colour  is  dusky  (some- 
times yellowish)  brown,  and  the  shoulders  and  flanks  are 
frequently  covered  during  the  summer  season  with  long 
pale-tipped  hairs.     This  is  no  doubt  the  grizzly  bear  of 
Hearne,  though  quite  distinct  from  the  kind  now   more 
familiarly  khown  under  that  appellation.      The  Indians 
greatly  dread  the  Barren  Ground  bear,  and  avoid  burning 
bones.  Lest  the  smell  should  attract  so  unwelcome  a  visiter. 
It  is  narrated,  that  as  Keskarrah,  an  old  Indian,  was  one 
day  seated  at  the  door  of  his  tent  near  Fort  Enterprise,  a 
large  bear  suddenly  made  its  appearance  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  a  small  stream,  and  remained  stationary  for  some 
time,  curiously  eying  the  old  gentleman,  and  apparently 
deliberating  whether  to  eat  him  up  at  that  moment  or  wait 
till    supper-time.      Keskarrah,   thinking  himself  in   great 
jeopardy,  and  having  no  one  to  assist  him  but  a  wife  as  old 
as  himself,  immediately  gave  utterance  to  the  following 
oration : — "  Oh,  bear  !  1  never  did  you  any  harm  ;  I  have 
always  had  the  highest  respect  for  you  and  your  relations, 
and  never  killed  any  of  them  except  through  necessity  :  go 
away,  good  bear,  and  let  me  alone,  and  I  promise  not  to  mo- 
lest you."    Bruin  instantly  took  his  departure;  and  the 
oratofi  never  doubting  that  he  owed  his  safety  to  his  elo- 


■'^  *■■■ 


*  Fauna  Boreali-Americana,  vol.  i.  p.  20. 


"'ri^- 


manJ  for 

r  for  mufft 

less  than 

tly  in  the 
1,  the  sup- 
le  to  have 
m  inquiries 
of  ten  de- 
Jlave  Lake, 
stricts  were 
ear,  viz.  the 
He  found, 
e  north  and 
othe  Polar 
from  those 
n  bear  of  the 
lusky  (some- 
1  flanks  are 
ti  with  long 
Ezly  bear  of 
I  now  more 
The  Indians 
void  burning 
Ime  a  visiter. 
[ian,was  one 
Enterprise,  a 
the  opposite 
ary  for  some 
1(1  apparently 
[lent  or  wait 
;elf  in   great 
a  wife  as  old 
he  following 
larm;  l^'d^Q 
>ur  relations, 
lecessity  :  go 
Lse  not  to  mo- 
are;  and  the 
,y  to  his  elo- 


/■ 


) 


,.    1,    ! 


# 


II 


.^  -y. 


':'  (1 


*;.  K 


zt 


w 


QUADRUPEDS. 


239 


quence,  on  his  arrival  at  the  fort  frequently  favoured  the 
company  with  his  speech  at  full  length.  In  the  stomach  of 
one  of  these  animals  which  Dr.  Richardrwn  dissected,  he 
found  the  remains  of  a  seal,  a  marmot,  a  large  quantity  of 
the  long  sweet  roots  of  some  Astragali  and  Hcdysarat  with 
some  wild  berries  and  a  little  grass. 

The  third  American  species  of  this  genus  which  we  re- 
quire to  notice  is  the  true  grizzly  bear,  or  Ursus  ferox.  He 
does  not  present  a  very  amiable  i "^  ec( 

This  is  the  most  formidable  ani»-.al  of  i  North  Ameri- 
can continent.  When  full  grown  it  equals  the  size  of  the 
larger  polar  bears,  and  is  not  only  more  active,  but  of  a 
fiercer  and  more  vindictive  disposition.  Its  strength  is  so 
great  that  it  will  drag  the  carcass  of  a  buffalo  weighing  a 
thousand  pounds.  The  following  story  of  its  prowess  is 
well  authenticated  : — A  party  of  voyagers  had  been  occupied 
all  day  in  tracking  a  canoe  up  the  Saskatchawan,  and  had 
seated  themselves  around  a  fire  during  the  evening  twilight. 
They  were  engaged  in  the  agreeable  task  of  preparing  their 
supper,  when  a  huge  grizzly  bear  sprang  aver  the  canoe, 
which  they  had  tilted  behind  them,  and  seizing  one  of  the 
party  by  the  shoulder,  carried  him  off.  The  remainder  fled 
in  terror,  with  the  soleexccj)tion  of  ame/t/,  named  Bourasso, 
who,  grasping  his  gun,  followed  the  bear  as  it  was  deliber- 
ately retreating  with  the  man  in  its  month.  He  called  out 
to  his  unfortunate  comrade  that  li  as  afraid  of  hitting 
him  if  he  fired  at  the  bear  ;  but  the  hitter  entreated  him  to 
fire  instantly,  because  the  animal  ivas  squeezing  him  to 
death.  On  this  he  took  a  steady  aim,  and  lodged  his  ball  in 
the  body  of  the  brute,  which  immediately  dropped  its  original 
prey,  that  it  might  revenge  itself  upon  Bourasso.  He  how- 
ever escaped,  though  with  difficulty,  and  the  monster  soon 
after  retreated  into  a  thicket,  where  it  was  supposed  to  have 
died.  But  fear  prevailed  over  every  other  feeling,  and  no 
one  thought  it  necessary  too  curiously  to  inquire.  The 
rescued  man  was  found  to  have  had  his  ann  fractured,  and 
to  have  been  otherwise  severely  bitten  ;  however,  he  after- 
ward recovered.  We  are  informed  by  Dr.  Richardson, 
that  a  man  is  now  living  in  the  vicinity  of  Edmonton  House 
who  was  attacked  by  a  grizzly  bear,  which  suddenly  sprang 
out  of  a  thicket  and  scalped  him  by  a  single  scratch  of  its 
tremendous  claws,  laying  bare  the  scull,  and  pulling  down 


,1 

i 


m 

m 

M I 

\  m 

■ 

1 

V 

fl 

w 

v4 

il 

m 

m 

M 

*wr'- 


240 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


I 


I 


> 


the  skin  of  the  forehead  quite  over  the  eyes.  Assistance 
being  at  hand,  the  bear  was  driven  off  witn  Jut  effecting 
further  injury  ;  but  the  individual  attacked  was  left  in  a 
most  unfortunate  and  painful  predicament,  for  the  scalp  not 
being  properly  replaced  in  time,  he  lost  his  sight  (although 
his  eyes  remained  uninjured),  owing  to  the  fixing  and  harden- 
ing of  that  skinny  veil. 

Mr.  Drummond,  whose  botanical  trip  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains we  have  already  narrated,  frequently  met  with  these 
disagreeable  companions.  When  he  happened  unintention- 
ally to  come  suddenly  upon  them,  they  would  rear  them- 
selves upright  on  their  hind-legs,  and  utter  a  loud,  harsh, 
and  rapid  breathing.  From  what  is  known  of  the  habits  of 
these  animals,  it  is  certain  that,  had  he  lost  his  presence  of 
mind  and  attempted  to  flee,  he  would  have  been  pursued, 
overtaken,  and  torn  to  pieces.  But  the  bold  Forfar-man 
stood  his  ground  to  an  inch,  and  beating  a  huge  botanical 
box,  made  of  tin,  his  discordant  music  so  astounded  the 
grizzly  monsters,  that,  after  eying  the  Scottish  Orpheus 
for  a  few  minutes,  they  generally  wheeled  to  the  right  about 
and  galloped  away.  He  was,  however,  once  attacked  by  a 
female  who  was  attended  by  her  cubs.  On  this  occasion 
his  gun  unfortunately  missed  fire ;  but  he  ept  her  at  bay 
with  the  butt-end  till  some  gentlemen  of  i.  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  with  whom  he  was  at  that  time  travelling,  came 
up  to  his  assistance,  and  they  succeeded  in  driving  her  off. 
On  another  occasion  he  observed  a  male  caressing  a  female, 
and  soon  after  the  loving  couple  came  towards  him,  but 
whether  by  accident  or  design  he  was  uncertain.  However, 
he  thought  there  was  no  great  harm  in  climbing  a  tree,  and 
as  the  female  drew  near,  he  very  ungallantly  fired  at  and 
mortally  wounded  her.  As  usual  in  such  cases,  she  uttered 
some  loud  screams,  which  threw  the  male  into  a  most  furious 
rage,  and  he  reared  himself  up  against  the  trunk  of  the  tree 
on  which  Mr.  Drummond  was  perched,  no  doubt  wishing 
himself,  if  not,  like  the  Scotch  baronet's  bird,  in  two  places 
at  one  time,  at  any  rate  in  some  other  quarter  of  the  world 
than  that  which  he  then  occupied.  However,  it  is  fortu- 
nately so  ordained  that  grizzly  bears  either  won't  or  can't 
climb,  and  the  female  in  the  mean  while  having  retired  to 
a  short  distance,  lay  down,  and  the  male  proceeding  to 
condole  with  her,  Mr.  Drummond  shot  him  too.     All 


^1^ 


QUADRUPEDS. 


241 


things  considered,  this  was  probably  his  most  prudent 
course. 

The  geographical  distribution  of  this  species  is  extensive. 
According  to  Lieutenant  Pike,  it  extends  southward  as 
far  as  Mexico,*  and  it  is  known  to  inhabit  the  Rocky 
Mountains  and  their  eastern  plains,  at  least  as  far  as  the 
sixty-first  degree  of  north  latitude,  and  in  the  last-named 
districts  it  occurs  most  frequently  in  such  woody  regions  as 
are  interspersed  with  open  prairies  and  grassy  hills.f 

Although  unwilling  to  detain  our  readers  much  longer  in 
such  uncouth  company,  we  cannot  close  our  account  of 
American  bears  without  a  short  record  of  the  white  or 
polar  species, — the  Ursus  maritimus  of  naturalists.  This 
great  prowler  of  the  arctic  snows  attains  to  a  higher  lati- 
tude than  any  other  known  quadruped,  an(^.  dwells  indeed 
by  preference 

**  In  thrilling  regions  of  thick-ribbed  ice.*' 

Its  southern  limit  appears  to  be  somewhere  about  the  fifty- 
fiflh  parallel.  It  is  well  known  at  York  Factory,  on  the 
southern  shore  of  Hudson's  Bay,  more  especially  during  the 
autumn  season,  to  which  it  is  liable  to  be  drifted  during 
summer  from  the  northward  on  the  ice.  It  is  a  truly  ice- 
haunting  and  maritime  species,  and  occurs  along  a  vast  ex- 
tent of  shore  over  the  arctic  regions,  never  entering  into 
wooded  countries  except  by  accident  during  the  prevalence 
of  great  mists,  nor  showing  itself  at  more  than  a  hundred 
miles'  distance  from  the  sea.  Indeed  it  rarely  travels  in- 
land more  than  a  few  miles,  because  it  is  a  strong  and  per- 
severing swimmer,  and  probably  feels  conscious  that  when 
removed  from  its  accustomed  element  it  loses  the  advantage 
of  its  own  peculiar  and  most  powerful  locomotive  energies. 
The  polar  benr  is  well  known  in  Greenland,  Spitzbergen, 

*  Travels  on  the  Missoari  and  Arkansaw,  edited  by  Mr.  Rees. 
I.OMdon,  1811. 

t  The  specimen  in  the  Edinburgh  Museunn  (of  which  I  have  published 
a  coloured  representation  on  the,  twenty-first  plate  of  the  first  volume  of 
Kiy  "  Illustrations  of  Zoology")  was  killed  on  the  plains  at  Carlton  House 
in  its  second  year.  Its  claws  are  black.  In  a  mature  condition  these 
weapnnn  are  white,  and  necklaces  made  of  them  are  much  prized  by  the 
Inilian  warriors  as  proofs  of  prowess. 

X 


'  ■ 


242 


^ATL'liAL    lllSTOIir. 


li 


und  Nova  Zombla,  and  was  met  with  by  Captain  Parry 
among  the  North  Georgian  Islands.  It  serins,  however,  to 
decrease  in  numbers  to  the  westward  of  Melville  Island. 
In  proof  of  this  it  may  be  mentioned  that  Dr.  Richardson 
met  with  none  between  the  mouths  of  the  Mackenzie  and 
Coppermine  Rivers  ;  and  the  Esquimaux  informed  Captain 
Franklin  that  white  bears  very  rarely  visited  the  coast  to  the 
westward  of  the  Mackenzie.  Along  the  Asiatic  shores,  on 
the  other  hand,  they  are  not  recorded  as  occurring  to  the 
eastward  of  the  Tgchukotzkoi  Noss.*  Neither  were  they 
seen  by  Captain  Beechey  during  his  recent  voyage  to  the 
Icy  Cape,  although  their  skins  appear  to  have  been  procured 
among  other  peltry  from  the  natives  on  the  coast  of  Hotham^s 
Inlet,  Kotzebue's  Sound.j  It  thus  appears  that  this  great 
maritime  species  occurs  very  generally  along  all  the  frozen 
shores  within  the  arctic  circle,  with  the  exception  of  about 
thirty-five  degrees  of  longitude  on  either  side  of  Point 
Beechey,  in  which  it  is  comparatively  rare ;  and  that  in 
Hudson's  Bay,  and  along  the  northern  coast  of  Labrador, 
and  the  nearer  portions  of  East  and  West  Greenland,  it 
occurs  not  unfrequently  six  or  eight  degrees  to  the  south  of 
the  arctic  circle.^ 

We  deem  it  unnecessary  to  describe  the  external  charac- 
ters or  appearance  of  this  familiarly-known  animal.^ 

Passing  over  the  racoon  {Procyon  lotor\  the  American 
badger  {Meles  Labradoria)y  the  wolverene  {Gulo  luscus)y  the 
common  weasel  (Mustcla  vulgaris)^  the  ermine  or  stoat 
{M.  erm,inea\  the  vison-weasel  {M.  vison)y  the  pine  martin 
{M.  martes),  the  pekan  or  fisher  (M.  Canadensis)^  and  the 
Hudson's  Bay  skunk  (Miphilis  Americana)^  we  shall  devote 
a  page  to  the  history  of  the  American  otters. 

*  Arctic  Zoology,  vol.  i.  p.  62. 

t  Narrative  of  a  Voyage  to  the  Pacific  and  Behring's  Straits,  to  co- 
operate with  the  Polar  Expeditions.    London,  1831. 

t  Edinburgh  Reviews,  No.  106,  p.  344. 

^  One  of  the  finest  specimenn  in  Europe  is  preserved  in  the  Edinburgli 
College  Mussnm.  It  was  shot  during  one  of  Sir  Edward  Parry's  expe- 
ditions, and  was  transmitted  to  Professor  Jameson  by  order  of  the  Lords 
of  the  Admiralty.  For  anecdotes  illustrating  the  history  and  habits  of 
the  polar  bear,  we  beg  to  refer  the  reader  to  No.  XIV.  of  the  Family 
Library,  entitled  "  Discovery  and  Adventure  in  the  Polar  Seas  and 
Regions." 


QUADRUPEDS. 


243 


in  Tarry 

VCVCTi  to 

3  Island, 
chardson 
nzie  and 
I  Captain 
,a8t  to  the 
ihorc8»  on 
ng  to  the 
were  they 
age  to  the 
[1  procured 
Hotham's 
this  great 
the  frozen 
m  of  about 
.  of  Point 
nd  that  in 
■  Labrador, 
reenland,  it 
he  south  of 

rnal  charac- 
nal.^ 

le  American 
luscus)i  the 
Ine  or  stoat 
Ipine  martin 
iis\  and  the 
shall  devote 


Straits,  to  co- 

I  the  Edinburgh 

1  Parry's  expe- 
Lrof  the  Lords 
f  and  habits  of 
I  of  the  FamUy 
lolar  Seas  and 


The  Canada  otter  (Lu<ra  Canadensis  of  Sabine)*  frequent! 
the  neighbourhood  of  falls  and  rapids  during  the  winter 
season  ;  and  when  its  accustomed  haunts  are  frozen  up,  it 
will  travel  a  great  way  over  the  snow  in  search  of  open 
water.  In  its  food  and  habits  it  bears  a  close  resemblance  to 
the  European  species,  but  it  may  be  distinguished  by  the 
fur  on  the  belly  being  of  the  same  shining  brown  colour  as 
that  on  the  back.  It  is  also  a  much  larger  animal,  and  has 
a  proportionately  shorter  tail. 

The  sea-otter  {Lutra  marina)  belongs  to  the  subgenus 
Enhydra  of  Dr.  Fleming.t  It  exhibits  the  manners  rather 
of  a  seal  than  of  a  land  animal.  It  resides  chiefly  in  the 
water ;  and,  according  to  Pennant,  has  been  sometimes  met 
with  more  than  a  hundred  leagues  from  shore.  It  is  dis- 
tinguished from  the  fresh-water  species,  among  other  char- 
acters, by  the  larger  dize  and  greater  strength  of  its  fore- 
paws.  The  fur  varies  in  beauty  according  to  the  age  and 
condition  of  the  animal.  Those  in  highest  estimation  have 
the  belly  and  throat  interspersed  with  brilliant  silver  hairs, 
while  the  other  parts  consist  of  a  thick  black  coat,  with  a 
silky  gloss  of  extreme  fineness. 

We  have  now  to  notice  the  wolves  and  dogs  of  America. 
The  former  may  be  called  wild-dogs,  and  some  of  the  latter 
are  little  better  than  semi-domesticated  wolves.  We  shall 
not  here  enter  into  the  question  of  the  specific  identity  or  dis- 
tinction of  the  European  and  American  species.  The  large 
brown  wolf,  described  by  Lewis  and  Clarke  as  inhabiting  not 
only  the  Atlantic  countries  but  the  borders  of  the  Pacific  and 
the  mountains  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Columbia  River,  ap- 
pears to  form  the  closest  approximation  to  the  wolf  of  the 
Scandinavian  Alps  and  the  Pyrenees.  It  is  not  found  on  the 
Missouri  to  the  westward  of  the  Platte.  Wolves  were  ex- 
tremely numerous  in  some  of  the  countries  traversed  by  our 
overland  expeditions.  They  varied  greatly  in  colour ;  some 
being  pure  white,  others  totally  black,  but  the  greater  pro- 
portion were  characterized  by  a  mixture  of  gray,  white,  and 
brown.  Dr.  Richardson  is  of  opinion  that,  however  co- 
loured, they  possess  certain  characters  in  common  in  which 

*  Appendix  to  Franklin's  First  Joumev,  p.  653. 
t  Piiilosophy  of  Zoology,  vol.  ji,  p.  Vij, 


244 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


they  differ  from  the  European  race.  "  On  the  Barren 
Grounds,  through  which  the  Co)>perniine  River  flows,  I  had 
more  tiian  once  an  opportunity  of  seeing  a  single  wolf  in 
close  pursuit  of  a  rein>deer ;  and  I  witnessed  a  chase  on 
Point  Lake  when  covered  with  ice,  which  terminated  in  a 
fine  buck  rein-deer  being  overtaken  by  a  large  white  wolf, 
and  disabled  by  a  bite  in  the  flank.  An  Indian,  who  was 
concealed  on  the  borders  of  the  lake,  ran  in  and  cut  the 
deer^s  throat  with  his  knife,  the  wolf  at  once  relinquishing 
his  prey  and  sneaking  off.  In  the  chase  the  poor  deer 
urged  its  flight  by  great  bounds,  which  for  a  time  exceeded 
the  speed  of  the  wolf;  but  it  stopped  so  frequently  to  gaze 
on  its  relentless  enemy,  that  the  latter,  toiling  on  at  a  *  long 
gallop,'  with  its  tongue  lolling  out  of  its  mouth,  gradually 
came  up.  After  each  hasty  look,  the  poor  deer  redoubled  its 
efforts  to  escape  ;  but,  either  exh.austcd  by  fatigue,  or  ener- 
vated by  fear,  it  became,  just  before  it  was  overtaken, 
scarcely  able  to  keep  its  feet."*  A  wolf  seldom  fails  to  at- 
tack, and  can  easily  run  down  a  fox,  if  it  perceives  it  at  any 
considerable  distance  from  its  cover,  and  it  bears  it  off  in 
its  mouth  without  any  apparent  diminution  of  its  speed,  if 
it  be  at  that  time  perceived  and  pursued  by  the  hunters. 
Though  cruel  and  bloodthirsty,  and  even  at  times  bold  in 
search  of  food  when  severely  pressed  by  famine,  the  wolf 
is  on  the  whole  a  timid  and  fearful  animal.  A  handker- 
chief tied  to  a  tree,  or  a  distended  bladder  dangling  in  the 
air,  is  sufficient  to  keep  a  whole  herd  at  a  respectful  distance. 
However,  during  Dr.  Richardson's  residence  at  Cumberland 
House,  in  1820,  a  wolf  which  had  been  for  some  time 
prowling  about  the  fort,  and  was  supposed  to  have  been 
driven  off  by  a  wound  of  a  musket  ball,  returned  after 
nightfall  and  carried  off  a  dog  from  among  about  iifly  of  his 
companions,  all  of  whom  howled  most  lamentably,  but 
wanted  courage  to  rescue  their  unfortunate  comrade.  In  tlio 
northern  countries  of  America  many  wolves  suffer  dread- 
fully from  famine,  and  not  unfrequently  perish  of  hunger 
during  severe  seasons. 

The  individual  h^re  flgured,  from  the  flne  specimen  in  the 
Edinburgh  Museum,  was  found  lying  dead  on  the  snow 
near  Fort  Franklin.     It  had  been  observed  prowling  about 

*  Fauna  Boreal i- Americana,  vol.  i.  p.  63. 


9  Barren 
W8, 1  had 
e  wolf  in 
chase  on 
lated  in  a 
hite  wolf, 
who  was 
d  cut  the 
nquishing 
poor  deer 
)  exceeded 
;ly  to  gaze 
at  a  '  long 
gradually 
doubled  its 
ic,  or  ener- 
overtaken, 
fails  to  at- 
C8  it  at  any 
irs  it  off  in 
s  speed,  if 
le  hunters, 
nes  bold  in 
e,  the  wolf 
V  handker- 
ing  in  the 
ul  distance, 
umberland 
some   time 
have  been 
urned  after 
fifty  of  his 
ntably,  but 
ade.    In  the 
luffer  dread- 
of  hunger 


jimen  in  the 
\n  the  snow 
rWng  about 


i  I 


f:- 


QUADRUPEDS. 


247 


the  Indian  huts  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fort  a  few  days  pre- 
ceding ;  and  its  extreme  emaciation  and  the  emptiness  of 
its  interior  showed  clearly  that  it  had  died  from  hunger. 
Captain  Lyon  describes  the  wolves  of  Melville  Peninsula 
as  comparatively  fearless.  One  afternoon  a  fine  dog  strayed 
a  short  way  ahead  of  its  master,  when  five  wolves  made  a 
sudden  and  unexpected  rush,  and  devoured  it  in  so  incredibly 
short  a  time,  that  before  Mr.  Elder,  who  witnessed  the 
attack,  could  reach  the  scene  of  action,  the  dog  had  disap- 
peared, with  the  exception  of  the  lower  part  of  a  leg.  They 
frequently  came  alongside  the  frost-bound  ship,  and  one 
night  broke  into  a  snow-hut,  and  carried  away  a  brace  of 
Esquimaux  dogs,  which  appeared  to  have  made  a  consider- 
able resistance,  as  the  ceiling  was  sprinkled  with  blood  and 
hair.  The  alarm  was  not  given  till  the  mortal  strife  had 
terminated,  and  when  they  were  fired  at,  one  of  the  wolves 
was  observed  to  take  up  a  dead  dog  in  his  mouth,  and  to 
set  off  with  it  at  an  easy  canter,  although  its  weight  was 
supposed  to  be  equal  to  his  own.^ 

The  dusky  wolf,  described  in  Godman's  Natural  History, 
is  regarded  as  a  distinct  species  by  Mr.  Say  ;t  and  the  black 
variety  is  also  considered  by  some  authors  as  entitled  to 
specific  separation.  The  not  unfrequent  occurrence  of 
black  individuals  in  the  litter  of  the  gray  and  brown  wolves 
seems,  however,  rather  to  point  out  the  probability  of  this 
difference  of  colour  being  merely  an  accidental  variation. 

But  the  prairie  wolf  {Cards  latrans)  is  undoubtedly  a  dis- 
tinct and  well-defined  species.  It  hunts  in  packs,  and  is  an 
animal  of  great  swiftness.  It  occurs  on  both  sides  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains ;  but  is  less  numerous  on  the  banks  of  the 
Columbia  than  in  the  plains  of  the  Missouri  and  Saskatcha- 
wan.  When  the  hunters  on  the  banks  of  the  latter  river 
discharge  their  muskets  at  any  kind  of  game,  great  numbers 
of  the  prairie  wolf  are  sometimes  seen  to  start  from  holes  in 
the  earth,  and  keep  a  look-out  with  a  view  to  secure  the 
offals  of  the  slaughtered  animal.  With  the  exception  of 
the  prong-horned  antelope,  there  is  probably  no  swifter 
quadruped  in  America  than  the  prairie  wolf. 

These  fierce  and  unreclaimed  animals  conduct  us  natu- 
vally  to  the  domesticated  tribes  of  the  canine  race,  of  which 

*  Lyon's  Private  Journal. 

t  Long's  Bxpedttion  to  tbe  Rocky  Mountains. 


248 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


there  are  several  remarkable  varieties  in  the  northern  re- 
gions of  America.  We  can  here  afford  space  only  for  a  few 
lines  regarding  the  Hare  Indian  or  Mackenzie  River  dog 
{Canis  familiaris^  var.  lagopos).  The  front  figure  of  the 
annexed  cut  represents  his  external  aspect. 

This  domestic  variety,  as  far  as  Dr.  Richardson  could 
learn,  Jippearcd  to  be  cultivated  only  by  the  Hare  Indians, 
and  other  tribes  frequenting  the  borders  of  the  Great  Slave 
Lake,  and  the  banks  of  the  Mackenzie.  It  is  too  small  and 
slight  to  serve  as  a  beast  of  draught  or  other  burden,  and  is 
consequently  used  solely  in  the  chase.  It  is  an  animal  of  a 
playful  and  affectionate  disposition,  easily  conciliated  by 
kindness.  It  has  a  mild  countenance,  a  demure  expression, 
a  small  head,  slender  muzzle,  erect  ears,  and  eyes  somewhat 
oblique.  Its  legs  are  rather  slender,  the  feet  broad  and 
hairy,  the  tail  bushy,  and  for  the  most  part  curled  over  the 
right  hip.  It  may  be  characterized  as  bearing  the  same 
near  relation  to  the  prairie  wolf  as  the  Esquimaux  dog  docs 
to  the  great  gray  wolf  of  America.  Indeed  the  whole  of  the 
canine  republic  in  these  parts  of  America  are  of  very  wolfish 
habits.  For  example,  the  larger  dogs  which  our  expedition 
purchased  at  Fort  Franklin  for  the  purposes  of  draught 
were  in  the  habit  of  pursuing  the  Hare  Indian  dogs  in  order 
to  devour  them  ;  but  the  latter,  fortunately,  far  outstripped 
the  others  in  speed.  A  young  puppy,  which  Dr.  Richardson 
purchased  from  the  Hare  Indians,  became  greatly  attached 
to  him,  and  when  about  seven  months  old,  ran  on  the  snow, 
by  the  side  of  his  sledge,  for  900  miles,  without  suffering 
from  fatigue.  "  During  this  march  it  frequently,  of  its  own 
accord,  carried  a  small  twig  or  one  of  my  mittens  for  a  mile 
or  two ;  but  although  very  gentle  in  manners,  it  showed 
little  aptitude  in  learning  any  of  the  arts  which  the  New- 
foundland dogs  so  speedily  acquire  of  fetching  and  carrying 
when  ordered.  This  dog  was  killed  and  eaten  by  an  Indian 
on  the  Saskatchawan,  who  pretended  that  he  mistook  it  for 
a  fox." 

The  flesh  of  dogs  is  muc^'  esteemed  by  the  Canadian 
voyagers,  and  by  several  of  the  Indian  tribes.  The  Chipe- 
wyans,  however,  who  deem  themselves  descended  from  a 
dog,  hold  the  practice  of  using  it  as  an  article  of  food  in 
great  abhorrence. 


I -I 


m  >i 


M 


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1 

1 

nnl 

•'IjB 

1  Vii 

'*  ifK 

'tfjl 

ill 

."^ 


QUADRUPEDS. 


251 


There  are  many  spceies  of  fox  in  North  America.  The 
American  red  fox  {Canis  futvus)  inhabits  the  woody  dis- 
tricts of  the  fur-countries,  and  from  thence  about  8000  of 
the  skins  are  annually  imported  into  England.  Pennant, 
and  many  other  authors  of  last  century,  regarded  the 
species  as  identical  with  the  common  European  kind  ;  from 
which,  however,  it  was  shown  by  M.  Palisot  -e  Bcduvois  to 
be  quite  distinct.  The  American  species  is  distinguished 
by  its  longer  and  finer  fur,  and  more  brilliant  colouring. 
Its  cheeks  are  rounder ;  its  nose  thicker,  shorter,  and  more 
truncated  ;  its  eyes  are  nearer  to  each  other,  and  its  feet 
are  in  general  much  more  woolly  beneath.  The  red  fox  has 
a  finer  brush,  and  is  altogether  a  larger  animal  than  the 
European ;  yet  it  does  not  possess  the  continuous  speed  of 
the  latter  ;  it  seems  to  exhaust  its  strength  almost  at  the 
first  burst,  and  is  then  overtaken  without  much  difficulty, 
either  by  a  mounted  huntsman  or  a  wolf.  The  cross  fox 
(C.  decussatus)  and  the  black  or  silver  fox  (C  argenlatus) 
are  considered  by  some  as  distinct  species,  while  others, 
probably  with  greater  correctness,  view  them  in  the  light  of 
local  or  accidental  varieties.  Besides  these,  we  may  name 
as  American  species,  the  kit-fox  (C.  cinereo-argentatus)^ 
and  the  arctic  fox,  commonly  so  called  (C.  lagopus).  The 
latter  occurs  also  in  the  Old  World. 

Several  kinds  of  lynx  inhabit  North  America ;  but  we 
shall  not  here  enter  on  their  history. 

^e  cannot,  however,  so  slightly  pass  the  beaver  of  these? 
northern  regions  (  Castor  fiber,  Americanus\  one  of  the  most 
valuable  and  noted  of  quadrupeds.  Its  description  is  con- 
tained in  almost  every  book  of  natural  history  ;  and  we  shall 
therefore  confine  ourselves  in  this  place  to  such  particulars 
as  illustrate  its  general  habits.  As  the  history  of  this  ani- 
mal given  by  Hearne  has  been  characterized  by  competent 
authority  a  the  most  accurate  which  has  yet  been  presented 
to  the  public,  we  shall  here  abridge  it  for  the  benefit  of  our 
readers. 

As  the  beaver  not  only  furnishes  an  excellent  food,  but  is 
highly  valuable  for  the  sake  of  its  skin,  it  naturally  attracted 
the  particular  attention  of  the  last-named  traveller.  The 
situation  of  beaver-houses  was  found  to  be  various.  When 
tLe  animals  are  numerous  they  inhabit  lakes,  ponds,  and 


"jm. 


252 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


}  ■ 


rivers,  as  well  as  those  narrow  creeks  which  connect  the 
lakes  together.      Generally,  however,  they  prefer  flowing 
waters,  probably  on  account  of  the  advantages  presented  by 
the  current  in  transporting  the  materials  of  their  dwellings. 
They  also  prefer  deepish  water,  no  doubt  because  it  afTords 
a  better  protection  from  the  frost.     It  is  when  they  build  in 
small  creeks  or  rivers,  the  waters  of  which  are  liable  to  dry 
or  be  drained  off,  that  they  manifest  that  beautiful  instinct 
with  which  Providence  has  gifted  them — the  formation  of 
dams.     These  diflcr  in  shape  according  to  their  particular 
localities.     When  the  water  has  little  motion  the  dam  is 
almost    straight ;   when   the  current  is   considerable   it   is 
curved,  with  its  convexity  towards  the  stream.     The  mate- 
rials made  use  of  are  drift-wood,  green  willows,  birch,  and 
poplars  ;  also  mud  and  stones  intermixed  in  such  a  manner 
as  must  evidently  contribute  to  the  strength  of  the  dam  ; 
but  there  is  no  particular  method  observed,  except  that  the 
work  is  carried  on  with  a  regular  sweep,  and  all  the  parts 
are  made  of  equal  strength.     "  In  places  which  have  been 
long  frequented  by  beavers  undisturbed,  their  dams,  by  fre- 
quent repairing,  become  a  solid  bank,  capable  of  resisting  a 
great  force  both  of  ice  and  water  ;  and  as  the  willow,  pop- 
lar,  and  birch  generally  take  root  and  shoot  up,  they  by 
degrees  form  a  kind  of  regular  planted  In^dge,  which  I  have 
seen  in  some  places  so  tall  that  birds  have  built  their  nests 
among  the  branches."* 

The  beaver-houses  are  built  of  the  same  materials  as  the 
dams ;  and  seldom  contain  more  than  four  old  and  six  or 
eight  young  ones.     There  is  little  order  or  regularity  in 
their  structure.     It  frequently  happens  that  some  of  the 
larger  houses  are  found  to  have  one  or  more  partitions,  but 
those  are   only  parts  of  the   main  building  left  by  the 
sagacity  of  the  beavers  to  support  the  roof;  and  the  apart- 
ments, as  some  are  pleased  to  consider  them,  have  usually 
no  communication  with  each  other,  except  by  water.    Those 
travellers  who  assert  that  the  beavers  have  two  doors  to 
their  dwellings,  one  on  the  land  side  and  the  other  next  the 
water,  manifest,  according  to  Hearne,  even  a  greater  igno- 
rance of  the  habits  of  these  animals  than  those  who  assign 
to  them  an  elegant  suite  of  apartments, — for  such  a  con- 


*  Hearne's  Journey  to  the  Northern  Ocean. 


QUADRUPEDS. 


253 


struction  would  render  their  houses  of  little  use,  either  as  a 
protection  from  their  enemies,  or  as  a  covering  from  the 
winter's  cold. 

It  is  not  true  that  heavers  drive  stakes  into  the  ground 

when  building  their  houses ;  they  lay  the  pieces  crosswise 

and  horizontal ;  neither  is  it  true  that  the  woodwork  is  first 

.finished  and  then  plastered ;  for  both  houses  and  dams  con* 

sist  from  the  foundation  of  a  mingled  mass  of  mud  and 

wood,   mixed  with  stones  when   these  can  be  procured. 

They  carry  the  mud  and  stones  between  their  fore-paws, 

and  the  wood  in  their  mouths.     They  always  work  in  the 

night  and  with  great  expedition.     They  cover  their  houses 

late  every  autumn  with  fresh  mud,  which  freezes  when  the 

frosts  set  in,  and  becomes  almost  as  hard  and  solid  as 

stone ;  and  thus  neither  wolves  nor  wolverenes  can  disturb 

their  repose.   When  walking  over  their  work,  and  especially 

when  about  to  plunge  into  the  water,  they  sometimes  give 

a  peculiar  flap  with  their  tails,  which  has  no  doubt  occa- 

sioned  the  erroneous  belief  that  they  use  these  organs  ex- 

actly  as  a  mason  uses  his  trowel.     Now  a  tame  beaver  will 

flap  by  the  fireside  where  there  is  nothing  but.  dust  and 

ashes ;  and  it  therefore  only  uses  the  trowel  in  common 

with  the  water-wagtail, — in  other  words,  the  quadruped  as 

well  as  the  bird  is  characterized  by  a  peculiar  motion  of  its 

caudal  extremity. 

The  food  of  this  animal  consists  chiefly  of  the  root  of 
the  plant  called  Nuphar  luteum^  which  bears  a  resemblance 
to  a  cabbage- stalk,  and  grows  at  the  bottom  of  lakes  and 
rivers.  It  also  gnaws  the  bark  of  birch,  poplar,  and  willow 
trees.  In  summer,  however,  a  more  varied  herbage,  with 
the  addition  of  berries,  is  consumed.  When  the  ice  breaks 
up  in  the  spring,  the  beavers  always  leave  their  houses  and 
rove  about  until  a  little  before  the  fall  of  the  leaf,  when 
they  return  again  to  their  old  habitations,  and  lay  in  their 
winter  stock  of  wood.  Hearne  gives  the  following  account 
of  some  tame  beavers  which  belonged  to  him  ; — "  In  cold 
weather  they  were  kept  in  my  own  sitting-room,  where  they 
were  the  constant  companions  of  the  Indian  women  and 
children,  and  were  so  fond  of  their  company  that  when  the 
Indians  were  absent  for  any  considerable  time,  the  beavers 
discovered  great  signs  of  uneasiness,  and  on  their  return 
showed  equal  marks  of  pleasure,  by  fondling  OQ  them, 


-«»■-' 


254 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


'     4^ 


crawling  into  their  laps,  lying  on  their  backs,  sitting  erect 
like  a  squirrel,  and  behaving  like  children  who  see  their 

{)arents  but  seldom.  In  general,  during  the  winter,  they 
ived  on  the  same  food  as  the  women  did,  and.  were  remark- 
ably fond  of  rice  and  plum-pudding ;  they  would  eat  par- 
tridges and  fresh  venison  very  freely,  but  I  never  tried  them 
with  fish,  though  I  have  heard  they  will  at  times  prey  on 
them.  In  fact,  there  are  few  graminivorous  animals  that 
may  not  be  brought  to  be  carnivorous."*  According  to 
Kalm,  Major  Roderfert,  of  New-York,  h.ad  a  tame  beaver 
above  half  a  year  in  his  house,  where  it  went  about  quite 
loose  like  a  dog.  The  major  gave  him  bread,  and  some- 
times Jish^  of  which  he  was  said  to  have  been  greedy.  He 
got  as  much  water  in  a  bowl  as  he  wanted,  and  all  the  rags 
and  soft  things  he  could  meet  with  he  drJigged  into  a  cor- 
ner, where  he  was  accustomed  to  sleep,  and  made  a  bed  of 
them.  The  house  cat  on  one  occasion,  happening  to  pro- 
duce kittens,  took  possession  of  the  beaver's  bed  without 
his  offering  her  any  opposition.  WHen  the  cat  went  out 
the  beaver  often  took  a  kitten  between  his  paws,  and  held 
it  to  his  breast,  as  if  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  it  warm  ; 
but  as  soon  as  the  proper  parent  returned  he  delivered  up 
Ihe  offspring.! 

Another  well-known  amphibious  quadruped  of  America 
is  the  musk-rat,  or  musquash  {Fiber  Zibethicus).  Its  fur 
resembles  that  of  the  beaver,  but  is  shorter ;  the  down  is 
coarser  and  less  valuable,  and  the  more  lengthened  part  of 
the  coat  is  weaker  and  not  so  shining.  It  is  easily  wetted 
after  death,  although  it  resists  the  water  well  when  the 
animal  is  alive.  The  musk-rat  measures  about  fourteen 
inches,  exclusive  of  the  tail,  which  is  eight  or  ten  inches 
long.  It  has  a  strong  smell  of  musk,  especially  in  the 
spring.  Its  flesh,  however,  is  eateri  by  the  Indians  ;  it  re- 
sembles flabby  pork.  This  species  extends  from  the  thir- 
tieth to  about  the  seventieth  degree  of  north  latitude. 
"  Their  favourite  abodes  are  small  grassy  lakes  or  swamps, 
or  the  grassy  borders  of  slow-flowing  streams,  where  there 
is  a  muddy  bottom.     They  feed  chiefly  on  vegetable  mat- 


*  Hearne's  Journey  to  the  Northern  Ocean, 
t  Kalin's  Travels  in  North  America. 


QUADRUPEDS. 


265 


leTBf  and  In  northern  districts  principally  on  the  roots  and 
tender  shouts  of  the  hulrush  and  reed  mace,  and  on  tha 
leaves  of  various  carices  and  aquatic  grasses.  The  sweet 
flag  (^Acorus  calamus)^  of  whose  roots,  according  to  Peif- 
nant,  they  are  very  fond,  does  not  grow  to  the  northward 
of  Lake  Winipeg.  In  the  summer  they  frequent  rivers, 
for  the  purpose,  it  is  said,  of  feeding  upon  the  fresh-water 
muscles.  We  often  saw  small  collections  of  muscle-shells 
on  the  banks  of  the  larger  rivers,  which  we  were  told  had 
been  left  by  them."* 

Before  the  'frosts  set  in,  the  musquash  builds  a  house  of 
mud,  of  a  conical  form,  with  a  sulTicient  base  to  elevate  the 
chamber  above  the  level  of  the  water.  It  generally  chooses 
a  spot  covered  with  long  grass^  which  it  incorporates  with 
the  mud.  It  uses  no  kind  of  composition  with  which  to 
agglutinate  these  materials  *,  but  there  is  usually  a  dry  bed 
of  grass  deposited  within  the  chamber.  I'he  entrance  is 
under  water.  Dr.  Richardson  informs  us  that  when  ice 
forms  over  the  surface  of  the  swamp,  the  musquash  makes 
breathing-holes  through  it,  and  protects  them*  from  the  frost 
by  a  covering  of  .nud.  .  During  severe  winters,  however, 
these  holes  are  frequently  frozen  up,  and  many  die.  Hats 
are  manufactured  from  the  skins  of  these  animals ;  and  for 
that  purpose  between  four  and  five  hundred  thousand  are 
imported  into  Great  Britain  every  year. 

Several  species  of  meadow-mice  and  lemmings  (Gen. 
Arvicola  tixn\  Georychus)  inhabit  the  northern  regions.  Our 
restricted  limits,  however,  do  not  admit  of  our  particularizing 
thes'c  tribes. 

An  animal  equalling  the  Norway  rat  in  size,  and  men- 
tioned by  Lewis  and  Clarke  under  the  name  of  rat  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  was  described  in  the  Zoological  Jour- 
nal,t  and  is  now  known  as  the  Rocky  Mountain  neotoma 
{N.  Drummondiit  Rich.).  It  is  of  a  yellowish-brown  colour 
above,  white  beneath,  with  a  tail  exceeding  the  length  of 
the  body,  and  bushy  at  the  extremity.  According  to  Mr. 
Drummond,  it  makes  its  nest  in  the  crevices  of  rocks, 
seldom  appearing  in  the  daytime.  It  is  a  very  destructive 
animal  in  stores  and  encampments.     It  gnaws  furs  and 

*  Fauna  Boreali-Americana,  vol.  i.  p.  117. 
t  No.  12,  March,  1828,  p.  517. 


I 


256 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


;i 


t 


i 


blankets  to  pieces,  and  Mr.  Drummond,  having  placed  a 
pair  ot  stout  English  shoes  on  a  shelving  rock,  found  on 
his  return  that  they  had  been  minced  into  fragments  as  fine 
&B  sawdust. 

Though  neither  the  black  nor  brown  rat,  nor  the  common 
mouse  of  Europe,  are  native  to  America,  they  now  occur 
by  importation  in  many  parts  of  the  New  World.  The 
American  field-mouse  {Mus  leucopus)  becomes  an  inmate  of 
the  dwelling-houses  as  soon  as  they  are  erected  at  any 
trading  port.  In  the  northern  districts  it  extends  across 
the  whole  country  from  the  shores  of  Hudson's  Bay  to  tlie 
mouth  of  the  Columbia.  "Tiie  ^ait  and  prying  actions  of 
this  little  creature,"  says  Dr.  Richardson,  "  when  it  ven- 
tures from  its  hole  in  the  dusk  of  the  evening,  are  so  much 
like  those  of  the  English  domestic  mouse,  that  most  of  the 
European  residents  at  Hudson's  Bay  have  considered  it  to 
be  the  same  animal,  altogether  overlooking  the  obvious  dif- 
ferences of  their  tails  and  other  peculiarities.  The  Ame- 
rican field-mouse,  however,  has  a  habit  of  making  hoards 
of  grain  or  little  pieces  of  fat,  which  I  believe  is  unknown 
of  the  European  domestic  mouse ;  and,  what  is  most  singu- 
lar, these  hoards  are  not  formed  in  the  animal's  retreats,  but 
generally  in  a  shoe  lefl  at  the  bedside,  the  pocket  of  a  coat, 
a  nightcap,  a  bag  hung  against  a  wall,  or  some  similar 
place.***  This  species  may  be  regarded  as  the  representa- 
tive of  the  Mus  sylvaticus  of  Europe.  Its  most  inveterate 
foe  is  the  ermine  or  stoat,  which  pursues  it  even  into  the 
sleeping  apartments. 

Many  marmots  inhabit  North  America.!  Of  these,  how- 
ever, we  shall  here  make  mention  of  only  a  single  species, 
the  wistonwish  or  prairie  marmot  {Arclomys  Ludovicianus). 
This  animal  is  called  prairie  dog  by  Sergeant  Gasst  and 
Lieutenant  Fike,^  and  it  is  also  the  barking-squirrel  of 

*  Fauna  Boreali-Americana,  vol.  i.  p.  143. 

t  For  a  detailed  account  of  these  animals  see  Mr.  Sabine's  paper  in 
Linn.  Trans,  vol.  xiii. ;  the  Appendix  to  Franklin's  First  Journey ;  Dr. 
Ilarlan's  Fauna  Americana;  Dr.  Godman's  American  Natural  History; 
Griffith's  Animal  Kingdom;  Pallas's  Novae  Species  Ouadrupedium  e 
Glirium  Ordine;  Pennant's  Arctic  Zoology;  and  Dr. Richardson's  work 
so  flrequently  above  referred  to. 

t  Journal  of  the  Travels  of  a  Corps  of  Discovery,  dec, 

$  Travels  on  the  Missouri  and  Arkansaw. 


QUADRUPEDS. 


267 


Lewis  and  Clarke.*  The  entrance  to  the  burrows  of  this 
species  doscctuls  at  first  vertically,  and  then  continues 
downwards  in  an  obiicjue  direction.  They  occur  at  inter- 
vals of  twenty  feet,  and  when  numerous  tliey  are  called 
prairie  dotf  villagKs,  'i'he  aniinalK  delij^ht  to  sport  about 
their  own  doors  in  pleasant  weather.  On  the  approach  of 
danger,  they  either  retreat  to  their  holes  or  sit  for  a  time 
barkin<(  and  flourishini;  their  tails,  or  siltinij  in  an  erect 
position,  as  if  to  reconnoitre.  VV'hen  shot  by  \,\\v  Imnter, 
they  generally  tumble  into  their  burrows,  and  are  thus  not 
easily  laid  hold  of,  either  dead  or  alive.  They  pass  the  winter 
in  a  state  of  torpidity,  aiid  lay  up  no  provisions.  The 
sleeping  apartments  consist  of  neat  jflobular  cells  of  fine 
dry  grass,  with  a  small  aperture  at  the  top, — the  whole  so 
compactly  formed  that  it  may  almost  be  rolled  over  the 
floor  without  beins;  damage  d.  The  warning  cry  of  this 
animal  bears  some  resemblance  to  the  hurried  barking  of  a 
small  dog.j 

The  squirrel-tribe  are  also  very  numerous  in  the  countries 
now  under  consideration.  The  chickaree  or  Hudson's  Bay 
squirrel  {Sciurus  Hudso7uuSy  Pennant)  inhabits  the  forests 
of  white  spruce-trees  which  cover  so  vast  a  portion  of  the 
fur-countries.  It  extends  as  far  to  the  south  as  the  middle 
states  of  America,  and  spreads  northwards  to  the  utmost 
regions  of  the  s[)ruce-forests,  which  cast  their  sombre  shade 
as  high  as  the  sixty-ninth  parallel.  It  burrows  at  the  root 
of  the  larorest  trees,  and  seldom  stirs  abroad  during  cold  or 
stormy  weather ;  but  even  in  the  depth  of  winter  it  may 
be  seen  sporting  among  the  branches  whenever  the  snow  is 
brightened  by  a  gleam  of  sunshine.  When  pursued  it 
makes  great  leaps  for  a  time  from  tree  to  tree,  but  ere  long 
seeks  a  favourable  opportunity  of  descending  into  a  burrow. 
However,  it  seldom  voluntarily  quits  its  own  particular  tree. 
During  the  winter  season  it  collects  the  spruce-cones,  and 
carrying  them  to  the  outskirts  of  its  burrow,  it  picks  out  the 
seeds  beneath  the  snow. 

Of  the  flying-squirrels  of  America  we  may  mention  the 
species  (or  variety  ])  discovered  by  Mr.  Urummond  on  the 
Rocky  Mountains  {Ptcromys  Sabrinusy  var.  B.  alpinus.)     It 

*  Travels  to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

t  Say's  Notes  tu  Lon^'b  Expedition  to  the  R£!>cky  Mountains. 

Y  a 


In 


I/Ml 

m 


I 

s 


mi 

nil 


268 


MATtlRAL    HISTORY. 


inhabit!  denie  pine-forest8,  and  rarely  ventures  from  iti  re* 
treats  except  during  the  night. 

PasRing  over  the  sand-rats  (genus  Geomys^  Rafinesque),* 
and  the  genus  Aphdontia  of  Kichard8on,t  we  shall  give  a 
short  account  of  the  Canada  porcupine  {Hyslrix  pilosua  of 
Catesby,  H.  dorsata^  Linn.)>  This  singular  animal  is  dis- 
tributed over  a  considerable  extent  of  America,  from  the 
thirty-seventh  to  the  sixty-seventh  dej;ree  of  north  latitude. 
Dr.  Harlan  informs  us  that  it  makes  its  dwelling-place  be- 
neath the  roots  of  hollow  treeu  It  dislikes  water,  is  cleanly 
in  its  habits,  sleeps  much,  and  feeds  principally  on  the  bark 
and  leaves  of  Pinus  Canadensis  and  Tilia  glabra.  It  has 
been  known  to  strip  a  tree  entirely  of  its  leaves,  and  is  also 
fond  of  sweet  apples  and  Indian  corn.  When  discovered 
on  the  ground  this  animal  does  not  strive  to  get  out  of  the 
way ;  but,  on  being  approached,  it  immediately  spreads  the 
spines  near  the  tail  over  the  whole  of  the  back.  The 
female  brings  forth  annually  three  or  four  young  at  a  birth, 
after  a  gestation  of  forty  days. 

In  the  fur-countries  the  porcupine  is  most  numerous  in 
sandy  districts  covered  with  Pinus  Banksianay  on  the  bark 
of  which  it  delights  to  feed,  as  well  as  on  that  of  the  larch  and 
spruce-fir,  and  the  buds  of  the  various  kinds  of  willows. 
The  Indian  dogs  do  not  decline  to  attack  this  "fretful" 
creature,  and  they  soon  kill  it,  though  not  without  injury  to 
themselves  ;  for  its  quills,  which  it  never  fails  to. erect  when 
attacked,  are  dangerous  from  the  minute  teeth,  directed 
backwards,  with  which  they  are  furnished.  The  points  are 
extremely  sharp,  and  are  no  sooner  lodged  beneath  the  skin 
of  an  assailant  than  they  begin  to  bury  themselves,  and 
finally  produce  death  by  transfixing  some  vital  organ. 
These  spines  are  detachable  by  the  slightest  touch,  or,  as 
some  say,  by  the  will  of  the  animal,  and  soon  fill  the  mouths 
of  the  dogs  by  which  it  is  attacked,  and  seldom  fail  to 
kill  them,  unless  carefully  picked  out  by  the  Indian  women. 
Wolves  also  sometimes  die  from  the  same  cause.t  Its 
flesh  tastes  like  flabby  pork,    and  though  by  no  means 


*  American  Monthly  Mnf;.  for  1817,  p.  45. 
t  Zoological  Journal,  January,  1819. 
'  X  Fauaa  Boreall- Americana,  vol.  1.  p.  215. 


QUADRUPEDS. 


259 


n  its  re- 


esque),* 
II  give  a 
ilosus  of 
il  is  dis- 
from  the 
latitude, 
pi  nee  be- 
is  cleanly 
I  the  bark 
r.     It  has 
nd  IB  also 
liscovered 
[)ut  of  the 
prcnds  the 
ick.     The 
at  a  birtht 

merous  in 
(I  the  bark 
e  larch  and 
if  willows. 
«» fretful" 
It  injury  to 
erect  when 
,  directed 
points  are 
[th  the  skin 
Iselvest  and 
ital   organ, 
[uch,  or,  as 
tlie  mouths 
lom    fail  to 
Ian  women, 
luse.t     Its 
no  means 


agreeable  to  European  pnltites,  is  much  relished  by  the  In- 
dians. The  quills  arc  vnriouHly  died,  and  are  gsud  in  the 
working  of  diHfercnt  ornaments  and  articles  of  hunting- 
npparel* 

There  are  four  species  of  have  in  North  America.     We 
shall  give  a  short  history  and  description  of  each. 

Ist,  The  American  liar**,  commonly  so  called  (Lepua 
Americanusy  Erxleben).  This  species  bears  a  great  resem- 
blance to  the  European  nUihlt.  It  seldom  weighs  more  than 
four  pounds.  In  winter  it  is  covered  with  a  thick  coat  of 
fine  long  fur,  externally  oi'  a  [)ure  white  colour,  except  a 
narrow  border  on  the  posterior  margins  of  the  ears,  and  round 
their  tips,  and  about  one-third  down  their  anterior  margins, 
\vhich  are  blackish-brown,  on  account  of  the  dark  roots  of 
the  hair  being  visible.  In  summer  the  fur  of  the  upper 
parts  is  shining  blackish-gray  at  the  roots,  but  tinged  towards 
the  tips  with  yellowish-brown  and  black.  There  is  a  large 
proportion  of  black  on  the  back,  and  the  resulting  colour  of 
the  surface  is  a  dark  umber-brown,  mixed  with  yellowish- 
brown.  A  while  circle  surrounds  the  eye.  The  white 
colour  commences  between  the  fore-legs,  and  extending 
over  the  under  parts,  predominates  on  the  extremities.  The 
sides  are  of  a  dulT  pale,  yellowish-brown.  The  ears  are 
nearly  naked  during  this  season.  The  tail  is  white  below, 
mixed  above  with  gray  and  brown.  This  species  is  common 
in  woody  districts  all  over  the  continent  of  North  America. 
It  abounds  on  Mackenzie  River  as  high  as  the  sixty-eighth 
parallel ;  but  it  appear^  to  be  replaced  by  the  larger  species 
both  on  the  "Barren  Grounds"  to  the  eastward,  and  on 
the  extensive  plains  through  which  the  Missouri  and  Sas- 
katchawan  take  their  far-flowing  courses.  In  summer  it 
eats  grass  and  other  vegetables,  and  in  winter  willow-bark 
forms  a  principal  part  of  its  sustenance.  It  never  burrows, 
and  is  much  preyed  on  both  by  man  and  beast.  The  furs 
of  this  species  are  imported  into  Britain  under  the  name  of 
rabbit-skins.  Twenty-five  thousaitd  have  been  taken  at  a 
trading-post  in  Hudson's  Bay  in  a  single  season. 

2d,  The  polar  hare  {Lepus  glacialis^  Leach).  Dr.  Leach 
appears  to  have  first  discriminated  this  species  from  the 
varying  hare.     It  inhabits  both  sides  of  Baffin's  Bay,  and 

is  common  over  the  north-eastern  districts  of  America.    It 

...  • 

•V,.' 


il 


m 


*< 


>     ), 


H. 


t. 


'f 
h    ^ 


a  a 


n 

1 

1 

' 

#,*  'J 

J 

i 

n 

260 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


is  not  known  to  advance  southward  beyond  the  fifty-eighth 
parallel,  and  does  not  occur  in  wooded  countries.  How- 
ever, it  is  often  seen  in  the  vicinity  of  lliin  clumps  of  spruce- 
fir*  It  digs  no  burrow,  but  seeks  the  natural  shelter  of 
large  stones.  The  winter-fur  of  this  species  is  of  a  snow- 
white  hue,  even  to  the  roots.  It  is  denser  and  of  a  tiner 
quality  than  that  of  tbe  preceding.  Summer  specimens 
killed  in  Melville  Island  (lat.  75°)  had  the  hair  of  the  back 
and  sides  of  a  grayish-brown  colour  towards  the  points. 
The  tveight  of  this  species  varies  from  seven  to  fourteen 
pounds.  The  iJesh  is  whitish  and  excellent,  being  much 
superior  in  flavour  to  that  of  the  American  hare,  and  more 
juicy  than  the  alpi'ie  hare  of  Scotland. 

3d,  The  prairie  iiare  (Lepus  Virginianus^  Harlan).  The 
fur  of  this  species  is  intermediate  in  fineness  and  density 
between  that  of  the  two  species  just  noticed.  It  is  common 
on  the  north  and  south  branches  of  the  Saskatchawan,  and 
on  the  plains  of  the  Missouri,  as  well  as  on  those  of  tlie 
Columbia  River.  It  frequents  open  districts  and  clumps  of 
wood,  and  its  general  habits  resemble  those  of  the  European 
hare.  This  hare  is  pure  white  in  winter,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  borders  of  the  ears,  which  are  of  a  wood-brown 
er  fawn-colour.  In  summer,  the  hesid,  neck,  back,  shoulders, 
and  outer  parts  of  the  legs  and  thighs  are  of  a  lead-colour. 
The  lower  parts  are  white,  with  a  tinge  of  lead-colour.  In 
the  month  of  March  the  summer-fur  appears  in  combination 
with  the  spotless  garb  of  winter,  and  is  characteristic  from 
the  middle  of  April  to  the  middle  of  November,  after  which 
the  snowy  dress  again  prevails.  This  species  can  leap 
twenty-one  feet  at  a  single  spring.  It  weighs  from  seven  to 
eleven  pounds. 

4th,  The  little  chief  hare  (L^;?ms  [Lagomys']  princepSf 
Rich.).  This  is  a  small  animal,  of  a  hiackish-brown  colour 
above,  and  gray  beneath.  Its  head  is  short  and  thick,  and 
its  ears  are  rounded.  It  inFiabits  the  Rocky  Mountains  be- 
tween the  fiftieth  and  sixtieth  degrees,  and  was  killed  by 
Mr.  Drummond  viear  the  sources  of  the  Elk  River.  The 
favourite  localities  of  thii?  species  are  heaps  of  loose  stcnes, 
through  the  interstices  of  which  it  makes  its  way  with 
great  facility.  It  is  oftcii  o'.iserved,  towards  sunset,  mounted 
on  a  stone,  and  calling  to  its  mates  in  a  shrill  whistle.  It 
does  not  appear  to  excavate  burrows,  but  when  approached 
by  the  hunter  it  uttors  a  feeble  cj^,  lesembling  that  of  a 


r' 


QUADRUPEDS. 


261 


rabbit  in  distress,  and  instantly  disappears  among  the  stones. 
Tiiis  cry  of"  fear  is  repeated  by  its  neighbours,  if  it  has  any, 
and  is  so  deceptive  as  to  appear  at  a  great  distance,  while 
in  fact  the  creatures  are  close  at  hand.  The  little  chief 
hare  (so  called,  we  understand,  from  its  expressive  Indian 
appellation,  buckathrce  kah-yaiczcB)  bears  a  resemblance  to 
the  alpine  pika  described  by  Pallas  and  Pennant  as  inhabit- 
inor  Kamtschatka  and  the  Aleoutian  Islands.  It  is  a  diminu- 
tive  animal,  not  measuring  more  than  six  or  seven  inches  m 
length,  and  differs  from  the  true  hares  in  the  number  of  its 
teeth.     It  also  wants  a  tail. 


The  next  group  to  which  we  have  to  call  the  attention  of 
the  reader  is  one  of  great  interest,  from  the  size,  value, 
and  general  importance  in  the  economy  of  nature,  of  the 
species  by  which  it  is  constituted, — we  mean  the  deer-tribe 
of  America.  Of  these  about  half  a  dozen  different  kinds 
inhabit  the  fur-countries.  As  in  the  other  numerous  groups, 
we  must  here  restrict  ourselves  to  the  history  of  a  very  few 
species. 

The  genus  Cervu  .  includes  all  those  ruminating  .inimals 
which  are  furnished  with  antlers.  Two  species  are  common 
to  the  northern  parts  of  both  continents  ;  five  or  six  belong 
to  North  America  ;  four  to  America  south  of  the  equator  ; 
and  above  a  dozen  to  India,  China,  and  the  archipelagoes  of 
the  south- ea&t  of  Asia.*  Of  these  some  inhabit  marshy 
forests,  others  the  wooded  shores  of  rivers  or  the  sea,  while 
others  again  prefer  the  bleak  sides  and  barren  valleys  of 
mountain-districts.  The  species  vary  occasionally  in  colour, 
and  are  subject  to  those  changes  of  constitution  to  which 
all  animals  are  more  or  less  liable,  and  which  physiologists 
have  distinguished  by  the  names  of  albinism  and  melanism, — 
the  first  applied  to  the  white,  the  second  to  the  black  varieties 
of  colour.  It  has  also  been  remarked  as  rather  a  singular 
circumstance,  that  the  white  varieties  occur  more  frequently 
in  the  equatorial  regions  than  in  the  colder  countries  of  the 
north, — a  proof,  perhaps,  that  the  intensity  of  light  and 

*  For  the  natural  history  and  description  of  many  of  the  most  remark- 
able of  the  Asiatic  species,  see  "  Historical  and  Descriptive  Account  of 
British  India''  (being  Nos.  XL VII.,  XLVIIL,  and  XLIX.  of  the  Family 
Library),  vol.  iii. 


\ 


ill 


« 


' 


/ 1 


i 


i    1 


622 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


heat  are  but  secondary  causes  in  the  protluction  of  animal 
colours.* 

The  elk  or  moosedeeV  (Cervu.f  aires)  is  a  gi  frantic  animal, 
of  a  heavy  and  rather  disairreeable  aspect.  It  is  easily  re- 
cocrnised  hy  the  great  hei  ,fht  of  its  litiihs,  tlie  shortness  of  its 
neck,  its  lengthened  head,  projecting  muzzle,  and  short  up- 


n 


right  mane.  When  full  grown  it  measures  above  six  feet 
in  height.  The  fur  is  lonor,  thick,  and  very  coarse,  of  a 
hoary-hrown  colour,  varying  according  to  age  ant)  the  se:  sjii 
of  the  year.  The  antlers  are  very  Itroad  and  solid,  plain  on 
the  inner  edge,  but  armed  externally  with  numerous  sharp 
points   at  shoots,    which   sometimes  amount   to  twenty- 

*  Desmoulins. 


QUADRUPKDS. 


263 


eight.     A  single  antler  has  been  known  to  weigh  fifty-six 
pounds. 

The  neck  of  thn  elk  is  much  shorter  than  its  head,  which 
gives  it  almost  a  deformed  appearance,  though  such  a  form- 
ation is  in  fact  rendered  necessary  by  the  great  weight  of 
its  antlers,  which  could  not  bo  so  easily  supported  upon  a 
neck  of  greater  lenifth.  Notwithstanding  the  length  of  its 
muzzle,  it  collects  its  food  with  difficulty  from  the  ground, 
bein*  obliged  either  greatly  to  spread  out  or  to  bend  its  limbs. 
P>om  this  results  its  propensity  to  browse  upon  the  lender 
twigs  and  leaves  of  trees, — a  mode  of  feeding  which  the 
keepers  of  the  French  menagerie  found  it  very  difficult  to 
alter  in  the  individual  under  their  charge.  The  upper  part 
of  the  mouth  j.s  prolonged  almost  in.  the  form  of  a  small 
trunk,  and  furnished  with  muscles,  which  give  it  great  flexi- 
bility of  movcnienf,  and  enable  it  rapidly  to  collect  its  food. 
In  summer,  during  the  prevalence  of  the  gadflies  in  the 
Scandinavian  penif»-*ula,  it  plunges  into  marshes,  where  it 
often  lies  day  and  night,  with  nothing  above  water  but  its 
head.  It  is  even  said  to  browse  upon  the  aquatic  plants 
beneath  the  surface,  making  at  the  same  time  aloud  blowing 
sound  through  its  nostrils. 

The  American  elks  live  in  small  troops  in  swampy  places. 
Their  gait,  according  to  Dr.  Harlan,  is  generally  a  trot,  and 
they  are  less  active  than  most  other  deer.  The  old*  in- 
dividuals lose  their  horns  in  January  and  February,  and  the 
young  in  April  and  May.  In  regard  to  their  geographic;ii 
distribution,  they  appear  to  have  been  formerly  found  as  fcr 
south  as  the  Ohio.  At  present  they  occur  only  in  the  :^ore 
northern  parts  of  the  United  States,  and  beyond  the  Great 
Lakes.  Captain  Franklin  met  with  several  during  his  la,st 
expedition,  feeding  on  willows  at  the  mouth  of  the  Macken- 
zie, in  lat.  69°.  Although  they  are  said  to  form  smal'  »  -ds 
in  Canada,  yet  in  the  more  northern  parts  they  aro  very 
solitary,  more  than  one  being  seldom  seen,  except  during 
the  rutting-season,  or  when  the  Ibmale  is  accompanied  by 
her  fawns.  The  sense  of  hearing  is  remarkably  acute  in 
this  species,  and  it  is  described  as  the  shyest  and  most  wary 
of  the  deer-tribe.  It  is  an  inoffensive  animal,  unless  when 
irritated  by  a  wound,  when  its  great  strength  renders  it  for- 
mida!)le,  or  during  ruttinii-time,  when  it  will  kill  a  dog  or  a 
wolf  by  a  single  blow  of  its  fore-foot.  It  is  much  sought 
after  by  the  American  Indians,  both  on  account  of  the  flesl^ 


V 


2:  !•;  SI 


\> 


264 


NATURAL   HISTORV 


•   > 


ff",' 


i! 


-'■    f. 


which  is  palatable,  and  the  hides,  with  which  they  in  part 
manufsicture  their  canoes,  ;  .id  several  articles  of"  dress. 
The  grain  of  the  flesh  is  coarse,  and  it  is  tougher  than  that 
of  any  other  kind  of  venison.  In  its  flavour  it  rather 
resembles  beef.  The  nose  is  excellent,  and  so  is  the  tongue, 
although  the  latter  is  by  no  means  so  fat  and  delicate  as  that 
of  the  reindeer.  The  male  elk  sometimes  weighs  from  a 
thousand  to  twelve  hundred  j)ounds. 

The  reindeer  {Cervus  tarandus)  is  widely  distributed 
over  the  northern  parts  of  both  the  Old  and  New  World. 
It  has  lonof  been  domesticated  in  Scandinavia,  and  is  an 
animal  of  incalculable  importance  to  the  Laplander.  We 
are  less  acquainted  with  the  nature  and  attributes  of  the 
American  species  ;  but  we  shall  here  follow  the  prevailing 
opinion,  and  consider  it  identical  with  thnt  of  the  north  of 
Europe  and  of  Asia.  There  appear  to  be  two  varieties  of 
reindeer  in  the  fur-countries.  One  of  these  is  confined  to 
the  woody  and  more  southern  districts,  the  other  retires  to 
the  woods  only  during  the  winter  oeason,  and  passes  the 
summer  either  in  the  Barren  Grounds  or  along  the  shores  of 
the  Arctic  Sea.  Hearne's  description  applies  to  the  latter 
kind,  while  the  accounts  given  by  the  earlier  French  writers 
dn  (^anada  relate  to  the  former. 

The  reindeer  of  tie  Barren  Grounds  is  of  small  stature, 
and  so  light  of  weight  that  a  man  may  carry  a  full-grown 
doe  across  his  shoulder.  The  bucks  are  of  larger  dimen- 
sions, and  weigh,  exclusive  of  the  offal,  from  90  to  130 
pounds.  The  skin  of  the  reindeer  is  light,  and  being 
closely  covired  with  hair,  it  forms  a  suitable  and  highly- 
prized  article  of  winter-apparel.  "  The  skins  of  the  young 
deer  make  the  best  dresses,  and  they  should  be  killed  for 
that  purpose  in  the  months  of  August  or  September,  as  after 
the  latter  date  the  hair  becomes  too  long  and  brittle.  The 
prime  parts  of  eight  or  ten  deer-skins  make  a  complete 
suit  of  clothing  for  a  grown  person,  which  is  so  impervious 
to  the  cold,  that  with  the  addition  of  a  blanket  of  the  same 
material,  any  one  so  clothed  may  bivouac  on  the  snow  with 
safety,  and  even  witli  comfort,  in  the  most  intense  cold  of 
an  arctic  winter's  night."*  Dr.  Richardson  is  of  opinion 
that  the  flavour  of  the  reindeer  flesh  is  superior  io  that  of 

*  Fauna  fioreaU-Americaoa,  vol.  i.  p.  J^ 


1  \^ 


i  t- 


QUADRUPEDS. 


265 


y  in  part 
of  dress, 
than  that 
it  rather 
le  tongue, 
\\e  as  that 
IS  from  a 

listriftuted 
;vv  World, 
and   is  an 
ider.     We 
tea  of  the 
prevailing 
le  north  of 
varieties  of 
confined  to 
ir  retires  to 
passes  the 
e  shores  of 
3  the  latter 
nch  writers 

lall  stature, 
full-grown 
•ger  dimen- 
90  to  130 
and    being 
nd  highly- 
the  young 
killed  for 
)er,  as  after 
ittle.     The 
a  complete 
impervious 
)f  the  same 
e  snow  with 
ense  cold  of 
of  opinion 
)r  '.o  that  of 


the  finest  English  mutton.  H'  "or,  the  animal  must  be 
in  prime  condition,  as  its  lean  s  comparatively  worse 

than  that  of  other  creatures.  emmican  is  formed  by 
pouring  one-third  part  of  meh  a  fat  over  the  flesh  of  the 
reindeer  after  it  is  dried  and  pounded.  Of  all  the  deer- 
tribe  of  America  this  species  is  the  most  easily  approached, 
and  immense  numbers  are  slaughtered  for  the  use  of  the 
Indian  families. 

The  other  variety  of  reindeer  to  which  we  have  alluded 
above  is  called  the  woodland  caribou.  It  is  FiUch  larger 
than  that  of  the  Barren  Grounds,  has  sm  Her  horns,  and 
is  greatly  inferior  as  an  article  of  diet.  The  most  remark- 
able peculiarity  in  the  habits  of  this  animal  is,  that  it  travels 
to  the  southward  in  the  spring.  It  crosses  the  Nelson  and 
the  Severn  Riveis  in  vast  herds  during  the  month  of  May, 
and  spends  the  summer  on  the  low  marshy  shores  of  James's 
Bay,  returning  inland,  and  in  a  northerly  direction,  in  Sep- 
tember.* 

Passing  over  the  prong-horned  antelope  (.4.  furcifer, 
Smith),  an  inhabitant  of  the  plains  of  the  Missouri  and 
Saskatchawan,  remarkable  for  its  extreme  swiftness,  we 
shall  devote  a  few  pages  to  the  natural  history  of  the  wild 
sheep  and  goaf,  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  two  of  the  most 
remarkable  and  important  of  the  native  quadrupeds  of 
North  America.     (See  the  following  Plate.) 

The  Rocky  Mountain  sheep  {Ovis  montanay  Desm.  and 
Rich.)  inhabits  the  range  from  which  it  derives  its  name, 
from  its  northern  termination,  or  at  least  from  latitude  68°, 
to  the  fortieth  degree  of  north  latitude.  It  ^Iso  dwells 
among  many  of  the  elevated  and  craggy  ridges  which  inter- 
sect the  country  lyin,;*  to  the  westward,  between  the  prin- 
cipal range  and  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  ;  but  it  does 
not  appear  to  have  advanced  beyond  the  eastern  declivities 
of  tbe  Rocky  Mountains,  and  it  consequently  does  not 
occur  in  any  of  the  hilly  tracts  nearer  to  Hudson's  Bay. 
The  favourite  feeding-places  of  this  species  are  "  grassy 
knolls  skirted  by  craggy  rocks,  to  which  they  can  retreat 
when  pursued  by  dogs  or  wolves."     Its  flesh,  when  in  sea- 

*  For  the  history  of  the  wapiti  (C.  stronsryloceros),  the  black-tailed 
deer  •^..  macrotis,  Say^  ^nd  the  long-tailed  deer  (C.  leucurus,  Douglas), 
we  must  refer  to  the  writiugs  or  the  various  travellers  and  systematie 
authors  namoU  In  the  course  of  those  chapters.  '  . 


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206 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


son,  is  stated  by  Mr.  Drummond  to  be  quite  delicious, — ad 
being  far  superior  to  that  of  any  of  the  deer-species,  and 
even  as  exceeding  in  flavour  the  finest  English  mutton. 
This  showy  animal  exceeds  the  Asiatic  argali  in  size,  and 
is  much  larger  than  the  largest  varieties  of  the  domestic 
breeds.  The  horns  of  the  male  are  very  large.  The  ears 
are  of  moderate  size.  The  facial  line  is  straight,  and  the 
general  form  of  the  animal,  being,  as  it  were,  intermediate 
between  that  of  the  sheep  and  stag,  is  not  devoid  of  ele- 
gance. The  hair  is  like  that  of  the  reindeer,  short,  fine, 
and  flexible,  in  its  autumn  growth ;  but  as  the  winter  ad- 
vances, it  becomes  coarse,  dry,  and  brittle,  though  still 
soft  to  the  touch :  it  is  necessarily  erect  at  this  season, 
from  JtR  extreme  closeness.  The  limbs  are  covered  with 
shorter  hairs.  In  regard  to  colours,  the  head,  buttock,  and 
po8t(  ri(K  part  of  the  abdomen  are  white  ;  the  rest  oi  the 
body  iiuc  the  neck  are  of  a  pale  or  dusky  wood-brown.  A 
iii<ie'ier  .id  more  lustrous  brown  prevails  on  the  fore-part 
ot*  Ihe  ^egB.  The  tail  is  dark-brown,  and  a  narrow  brown 
line,  o^*ending  from  its  base,  divides  the  buttock,  and 
unites  Tiith  the  brown  colour  of  the  back.  The  colours 
reside  in  the  ends  of  the  hair,  and  as  these  are  rubbed  oJ3* 
during  the  progress  of  winter,  the  tints  become  paler. 

The  horns  of  the  female  are  much  smaller,  and  nearly 
erect,  having  but  a  slight  curvature,  and  an  inclination 
backwards  and  outwards.^ 

The  following  are  the  dimensions  of  an  old  Rocky  Moun- 
tain ram,  killed  on  the  south  branch  of  the  Mackenzie,  and 
now  in  the  Museum  of  the  Zoological  Society  of  London. 

Feet.  Inchei. 

Len^h  of  the  head  atid  body 6  0 

Height  at  the  fore  shoulder     3  5 

Length  of  tai! 0  2  , 

Length  of  horn,  measured  alonjr  the  curvature    . .  2  10  * 

Circumference  of  horn  at  its  base  1  1 

Distance  from  tip  to  tip  of  the  horn^?  2  3 

These  animals  collect  in  f!or,ks  consisting  of  from  three 
to  thirty,  the  young  rams  and  the  females  herding  together 
during  the  winter  and  spring,  while  the  old   rams  form 

*  The  Edinburgh  College  Museum  contains  a  fine  specimen  of  tb« 
female  Rocky  y«cuct8iD  abeep. 


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^tJADRUPSDS. 


269 


leparate  floc!-s,  except  during  the  month  of  December^ 
\thich  is  their  rutting-season.  "  The  ewes  bring  forth  in 
June  or  July,  and  then  retire  with  their  lambs  to  the  most 
inaccessible  heights.  Mr.  Drumniond  informs  me,  that  in 
the  retired  parts  of  the  mountains,  where  the  hunters  had 
seldom  penetrated,  he  found  no  difficulty  in  approaching 
the  Rocky  Mountain  sheep,  which  there  exhibited  the  sim- 
plicity of  character  so  remarkable  in  the  domestic  species ; 
but  that  where  they  had  been  often  fired  at  they  were  ex- 
ceedingly wild,  alarmed  their  companions  on  the  approach 
of  danger  by  a  hissing  noise,  and  scaled  the  rocks  with 
a  speed  and  agility  that  baffled  pursuit.  He  lost 'several 
that  he  had  mortally  wounded,  by  their  retiring  to  die  among 
the  secladed  precipices."* 

When  the  first  mission  was  established  in  California, 
nearly  two  centuries  after  the  discovery  of  that  country, 
Fathers  Piccolo  and  de  Salvatierra  found  "  two  sorts  of 
dter  that  we  know  nothing  of;  we  call  them  sheep  because 
they  somewhat  resemble  ours  in  make.  The  first  sort  is  as 
large  as  a  calf  of  one  or  two  years  old ;  its  head  is  much 
like  that  of  a  stag,  and  its  horns,  which  are  very  large,  are 
like  those  of  a  ram;  its  tail  and  hair  are  speckled,  and 
shorter  than  a  stag's,  but  its  hoof  is  large,  round,  and  cleft, 
as  an  ox's.  I  have  eaten  of  these  beasts ;  their  flesh  is 
very  tender  and  delicious.  The  other  sort  of  sheep,  some 
of  which  are  white,  and  others  black,  differ  less  from  ours. 
They  are  larger,  and  have  a  great  deal  more  wool,  which  is 
very  good,  and  easy  to  be  spun  and  wrought."!  The  ani- 
mal first  mentioned  in  the  above  quotation  is  the  Rocky 
Mountain  sheep ;  the  other  is  the  wild-goat  of  these  same 
districts,  of  which  we  shall  now  exhibit  a  brief  history.t 

The  Rocky  Mountain  goat  inhabits  the  highest  and  least 
accessible  summits.  The  precise  limits  of  its  territorial 
range  have  probably  not  yet  been  ascertained  ;  but  it  appears 
to  extend  from  the  fortieth  to  the  sixty-fourth  or  sixty-fifth 
degree  of  north  latitude.     It  is  seldom  or  never  observed 

*  Fauna  Boreali-Americana,  vol.  i.  p.  273. 

t  Phil.  Trans.  No.  318,  p.  232. 

X  i  have  elsewhere  observed,  that  in  the  account  of  Lev/is  and 
Clarke's  travels,  in  the  Qiiarterly  Review  (vol.  xii.  p.  334,  362),  there 
are  two  passages,  which,  if  not  corrected,  would  lead  to  an  inaccurat* 
conclusion  retjarding  the  origin  of  domestic  sheep.  See  Quarterly 
Journal  of  Agriculture,  No.  ix.  p.  374,  Note. 

Z2 


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11^  . 


S70 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


at  any  distance  from  the  mountains,  and  is  said  to  be  lesf 
numerous  on  the  eastern  than  the  western  sides.  It-  wai 
not  met  with  by  Mr.  Drummond  on  the  eastern  declivities 
of  the  range,  near  the  sources  of  the  Elk  River,  where  thp 
sheep  are  numerous ;  but  he  learned  from  the  Indian^: 
that  It  frequents  the  steepest  precipices,  and  is  much  more 
difficult  to  procure  than  the  sheep.  On  the  other  hand, 
Major  Long  states,  from  the  information  of  a  factor  of  the 
Hudson^s  Bny  Company,  that  they  are  of  easy  access  to 
the  hunter.  The  flesh  of  this  species  is  hard  and  dry,  and 
somewhat  unsavoury,  froifi  its  musky  flavour.  Beneath  its 
long  hairy  covering  there  is  a  coating  of  wool  of  the  finest 
quality.  **^If  the  Highland  Society  and  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  were  to  combine  their  resources  of  *  ways  and 
means,'  the  importation  of  this  fine  animal  into  the  alpine 
and  insular  districts  of  Scotland  might  be  effected  without 
much  difficulty  or  any  great  expense."*  The  fine  wool  of 
this  species  grows  principally  on  the  back  and  buttock,  and 
is  intermixed  with  long  coarse  hair.f 

The  bison,  or  American  buffalo  (Bos  Americanus)^  is 
spread  over  a  great  portion  of  the  temperate  regions  of 
America,  and  appears  to  extend  southwards  probably  as 
far  as  the  thirty-fifth  degree  of  north  latitude.  Its  charac- 
teristic positions,  however,  are  the  great  prairies  to  the 
westward  of  th©  Mississippi,  where,  according  to  Dr.  Harlan, 
they  sometimes  congregate  in  such  vast  troops  that  10,000 
individuals  are  supposed  to  have  been  seen  at  one  time. 
Although  they  inhabited  the  Carol inas  at  the  period  of  the 
earliest  colonization,  they  have  long  since  retired  towards 
the  plains  of  the  Missouri.  None  have  been  seen  in  Penn- 
sylvania for  a  long  time,  nor  in  Kentucky  since  about  the 
year  1766.  The  influence  exerted  over  the  natural  bound- 
arijBS  of  the  brute  creation  is  indeed  strikingly  illustrated 
by  the  geographical  history  of  this  species.  It  appears  to 
have  formerly  existed  throughout  the  whole  extent  of  the 


*  Edinburgh  Review,  No.  106,  p.  353. 

t  The  synonymy  of  this  animal  is  somewhat  confiised.  It  is  the 
wool-bearing  antelope,  Antilope  lanigera  of  Major  Hamilton  Smith ; 
the  mountain  sheep  (though  distinct  fVom  the  true  Ovis  montana)  of 
Jameson  and  Ord ;  the  Mazama  dorzata  et  sericea  of  Raflnesque ;  the 
Rupicapra  Americana  of  De  Blainville ;  the  Antilope  Americana  of 
Desmarest ;  and  the  Capra  Americana  of  Richardson. 


,:   r        1  It- 


aUADRtPEDS. 


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iUvities 
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.    It  is  the 

ton  Smith; 

.ontana)  of 

lesque;  the 

ericana  of 


nited  States,  with  the  possible  exception  of  the  territory 
thr  cast  of  Hudson's  River  and  Lake  Champlain,  and  of 


United 
to 

some  narrow  lines  of  coast  along  the  Atlantic  shores  and 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  During  the  early  part  of  the  sixteenth 
century  it  was  seen  by  Alvar  Nunez  near  the  Bay  of  St. 
Bernard,  which  may  be  regarded  as  its  southern  boundary 
on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  chain.  It  ex- 
tends much  farther  north  among  the  central  than  the  eastern 
territories ;  for  we  find  that  a  bison  was  killed  by  Captain 
Franklin's  expedition  on  the  Salt  River,  in  the  sixtieth 
parallel ;  while  it  has  not  been  traced  to  any  of  those  tracts 
which  lie  to  the  northward  of  Lakes  Ontario,  'e,  &c., 
and  to  the  eastward  of  Lake  Superior.  Mr.  Ke-i  states 
that  to  the  westward  of  Lake  Winipeg  the  biso.  .^  found 
as  far  north  as  the  sixty-second  degree  ;*  and  Dr.  Richard- 
son adduces  the  testimony  of  the  natives  to  show  that  they 
have  taken  possession  of  the  flat  limestone  district  of  Slave 
Point,  on  the  north  side  of  Great  Slave  Lake,  and  have 
even  wandered  a.*^  far  as  the  vicinity  of  Great  Marten  Lake, 
in  latitude  63°  or  64°.  The  Rocky  Mountain  range  appears 
to  have  formerly  opposed  a  barrier  to  the  westerly  progres- 
sion of  the  species  ;  but  they  are  said  to  have  discovered 
of  late  years  a  passage  across  these  mountains,  near  the 
sources  of  the  Saskatchawan.  They  are  now  known  to 
occur  both  in  California  and  New  Mexico,  and  their  exist- 
ence on  the  Columbia  is  also  ascertained. 

The  male  bisons  contend  together  with  great  fury  during 
the  rutting-season,  and  it  is  dangerous  to  venture  near 
them  at  that  period.  In  general,  however,  they  are  shy 
and  wary,  and  there  is  more  difficulty  than  danger  in  ap- 
proaching them ;  but  when  wounded  they  will  sometimes 
turn  upon  and  pursue  the  hunter.  "  While  I  resided  at 
Carlton  House,"  Dr.  Richardson  informs  us,  "  an  accident 
of  this  kind  occurred.  Mr.  Finnan  M'Donald,  one  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company's  clerks,  was  descending  the  Sas- 
katchawan in  a  boat ;  and  one  evening,  having  pitched  his 
tent  for  the  night,  he  went  out  in  the  dusk  to  look  foi 
game.  It  had  become  nearly  dark  when  he  fired  at  a 
bison-bull,  which  was  galloping  over  a  small  eminence  ;  and 
as  he  was  hastening  forward  to  see  if  his  shot  had  taken 

*  Account  of  Major  Long's  Expedition  to  the  Source  of  St.  Peter's 
Rlvor,  vol.  ii.  chap.  i. 


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23  WIST  MAIN  STRIET 

WEiSTER,N.Y.  MSSO 

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NATURAL   HISTORY. 


effect,  the  wounded  beast  made  a  rush  at  him.  He  had 
the  presence  of  mind  to  seiie  the  animal  by  the  long  hair 
on  its  forehead,  as  it  struck  him  on  the  side  with  its  horn  ; 
and  being  a  remarkably  tall  and  powerful  man,  a  struggle 
ensued,  which  continued  until*  his  wrist  was  severely 
sprained,  and  his  arm  was  rendered  powerless  ;  he  then 
fell,  and  after  receiving  two  or  three  blows  became  sense- 
less. Shortly  afterwanl  he  was  found  by  his  companions 
lying  bathed  in  blood,  being  gored  in  several  places  ;  and 
the  bison  was  couched  beside  him,  apparently  waitine  to 
renew  the  attack  had  he  shown  nny  signs  of  life.  Mr. 
McDonald  recovered  from  the  immediate  efTects  of  the  in- 
juries he  received,  but  died  a  few  months  afterward."* 

The  flesh  of  a  well-conditioned  bison  is  juicy,  and  of 
excellent  flavour.  The  tongue  is  a  great  delicacy,  and  may 
be  so  cured  as  to  surpass  the  gusto  of  that  part  of  an 
English  cow.  The  hump,  or  wig^  as  it  is  sometimes  called, 
has  a  fine  grain,  and  is  almost  as  rich  and  tender  as  the 
tongue.  In  regard  to  the  external  characters  of  the  bison, 
the  male  is  remarkable  for  the  enormous  size  of  its  head, 
the  conical  elevation  between  the  shoulders,  its  small 
piercing  eyes,  short  black  horns,  and  on  the  fore-quarters 
the  great  profusion  of  shaggy  hair.  Its  hind-quarters 
appear  comparatively  weak,  from  the  shortness  of  the  woolly 
hair  by  which  they  are  covered.  The  male  sometimes 
weighs  above  2000  pounds  ;  but  12  or  14  cwt.  is  regarded 
as  a  good  weight  in  the  fur-countries.  It  measures  eight 
feet  and  a  half  in  length,  and  above  six  feet  high  at  the 
fore-quarter.  The  cow  is  smaller  in  the  head  and  shoulders 
than  the  bull. 

According  to  Rafinesque,  the  bison  has  been  domesti- 
cated in  Kentucky  and  the  Ohio.f  It  is  even  reported  by 
some  authors  to  have  bred  with  the  tame  cow  of  European 
origin;  and  the  cross  breed  is  said  to  continue  prolific. 
This  statement,  however,  requires  confirmation.  "  Our 
inquiries  on  the  spot,"  says  Major  H.  Smith,  ''  never  pro- 
duced a  proof,  or  even  an  assertion  from  the  well-informed, 
that  they  had  seen  the  hybrid  offspring."  This  animal  is 
unknown  to  the  Esquimaux  on  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea. 

*  Fauna  Boreali-Americana,  vol.  i.  p.  281. 

t  I  state  this  oa  the  information  of  M.  Antoiiie  Desmoulins,  not 
liaving  bad  it  in  my  power  to  peruse  the  work  of  the  writer  above  named 


<i      1  I     i     i. 


QUADRUPEDS. 


27a 


We  shall  conclude  our  account  of  the  quadrupeds  of 
North  America  with  the  description  of  the  musk-ox  (Ovi' 
bos  moschatus  of  De  Blainville).  We  stand  inuebted  for 
our  systematic  knowledge  of  this  curious  animal  to  Pen- 
nant, who  received  a  specimen  of  the  skin  from  the  traveller 
Heame  ;*  but  it  had  been  previously  mentioned,  after  a 
vague  fashion,  by  several  of  the  early  English  voyagers, 
and  M.  Jeremie  had  imported  a  portion  of  the  wool  to 
France,  from  which  stockings  more  beautiful  than  those  of 
silk  were  manufactured.!  When  full  grown,  this  animal 
is  about  the  size  of  the  small  Highland  cattle.  The  horns 
are  remarkably  broad  at  their  bases,  and  cover  the  brow  and 
crown  of  the  head,  touching  each  other  for  their  entire  breadth 
from  before  backwards.  The  nose  is  blunt,  and  the  head 
large  and  broad.  The  general  colour  of  the  coat  is  brown, 
and  on  the  back  there  is  a  saddle-like  mark  of  a  brownish- 
white  colour.  The  hair  is  very  long.  The  horni  of  the 
cow  are  smaller  than  those  of  the  male,  and  do  not  touch 
each  other  at  their  bases,  and  the  hair  on  the  throat  and 
chest  is  shorter. 

The  flesh  of  the  musk-ox,  in  good  condition,  is  well 
flavoured.  It  resembles  that  of  the  rein-deer,  but  is  coarser 
grained,  and  smells  strongly  of  musk.  The  carcass  of  this 
animal  weighs,  exclusive  of  the  offal,  about  300  pounds. 
The  wool  is  remarkably  tine.  This  species  inhabits  a  great 
extent  of  barren  land  to  the  northward  of  the  sixtieth  paral- 
lel. They  visit  Melville  Island  (north  lat.  75°)  in  the  month 
of  May,  but  they  do  not,  like  the  rein-deer,  extend  to 
Greenland  and  Spitzbergen. 

These  are  the  principal  quadrupeds  of  the  northern  re- 
gions of  the  New  World,  t 

*  Arctic  Zoology,  vol.  i.  p.  11. 

t  Voyage  au  Nord.  Charlevoix,  Histoire  de  la  Nouvelle  Prance. 

i  With  a  view  to  avoid  repetition,  we  here  omit  the  history  of  tbe 
seals  and  cetaceous  tribes,  as  those  departrnents  have  been  nretty  fUlly 
illustrated  in  a  former  volume  of  this  series.  See  No.  XIV.  of  the 
Family  Library,  entitled  "  Narrative  of  Discovery  and  Adventure  in 
the  Polar  Seas  and  Regions,"  by  Sir  John  Leslie,  Professor  Jameson, 
and  Hugh  Murray,  Esq. 


1, 


I  if 


% 
1 


274 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


("I 

r 


CHAPTER  VII. 

*     The  Birds  of  the  Northern  Regions  of  America. 

Tarkey  Buzzard— Golden-eagle—  Bald-eagle— If awkN— Owls— Butcher- 
birds  —  Kingbird — Northern  Tyrant  —  American  Water-ouzel- Red- 
breasted  Thrush — Blue-bird— Arctic  Blue-bird-Cedar-bird.or  Ameri- 
can Chatterer— Snow-bunting  — Painted  Bunting — Pine-grosbeak— 
Evening-grosbeak  —  Scarlet  Tanager  —  Cuckoo-buntmg  —  Crows  — 
Woodpeckers  —  Humming-birds  —  Swallows  —  Belted  Kingfisher  — 
Grouse — Passenger-pigeon  — Grallatores  —  Natatores  — Gulls— Rocky 
Mountain  Golden-eye  —  Bewick's  Swan  —  Trumpeter-swan  —  White 
Pelican — Great  Northern  Diver —Black-throated  Diver— Guillemots. 

The  difficulties  attending  the  completion  of  an  ornitho- 
logical history  were  complained  of  by  Buifon,  and  the  chief 
of  these  was  stated  by  that  illustrious  obser^'er  as  consisting 
in  the  fact  that  naturalists  were  already  acquainted  with 
800  species  of  the  class  ;  and  he  further  expressed  his 
opinion  that  there  might  actually  exist  1500  or  even  2000 
different  kinds  of  birds.  Now,  as  nearly  6000  species  of 
the  feathered  race  have  been  ascertained  up  to  the  present 
period,  and  many  new  species  are  in  the  course  of  being 
discovered  and  described  during  every  successive  year,  our 
readers  may  form  some  opinion  of  the  laborious  toil  attend- 
ing the  researches  of  these  "  degenerate  days,"  in  which 
people  of  such  inferior  capacity  to  the  French  Pliny  have 
to  grapple  with  a  subject  so  infinitely  more  encumbered. 
No  doubt  the  division  of  labour  has  been  more  attended  to 
since  the  greater  extension  of  the  field  of  exercise,  and 
BufTon's  brilliant  genius  was  too  often  satisfied  with  vague 
generalities,  unsupportable  in  proportion  to  the  increase  of 
that  more  definite  knowledge  which  has  been  recently  ac- 
quired. With  an  intellect  so  excitable  and  full  of  thought, 
and  a  flow  of  language  so  powerful  and  persuasive,  it  was 
no  marvel  that  such  a  naturalist  should  have  outstripped  for 
a  season  all  his  competitors  in  the  career  of  fame ;  but  the 
fable  of  the  helix  and  the  hare  is  not  altogether  inapplicable 
to  the  two  classes  of  observers,  of  one  of  which  Buffon  was 
the  head  and  front ;  for  there  was  not  only  an  occasional 


,0- 


BIRDS. 


276 


pause  in  his  onward  progress,  but  those  who  now  follow  his 
footsteps  in  the  search  of  truth  are  too  often  obliged  either 
to  retrograde  or  trace  out  a  labyrinth  with  many  windings. 
It  is  well,  however,  that  such  a  master-spirit  should  in  any 
way  have  embraced  the  subject  of  natural  history  ;  for  it 
has  too  frequently  happened  that  men  of  very  steril  genius, 
of  whose  mental  constitution  enthusiasm  formed  no  por- 
tion, have  imagined  themselves  devoted  to  the  study.  Now, 
even  the  obscurity  and  mistiness  of  BufTon,  though  perhaps 
not  always  equal  to  other  people's  sunshine,  are  yet  com- 
posed of  *'  clouds  of  glory,"  and  hence  the  hold  possessed 
by  his  writings,  and  by  those  of  all  belonging  to  the  intel- 
lectual class  of  observers,  to  whom  truth  is  as  dear  as  it 
Was  to  Aristotle,  but  to  whom  nevertheless  the  common 
sights  of  earth 

"  do  sometimes  seem 
Appareird  in  celestial  light, 
The  glory  and  the  freshness  or  a  dream." 

The  extension  which  we  have  given  to  the  history  of 
North  American  quadrupeds  in  the  preceding  chapter,  and 
which  we  bestowed  in  consequence  of  the  greater  importance 
usually  attached  to  the  mammiferous  class,  renders  neces- 
sary a  more  restricted  selection  in  the  other  branches.  We 
regret  this  the  less  in  retation  to  the  feathered  tribes,  as  an 
admirable  history  of  American  birds  has  been  lately  brought 
within  reach  of  every  class  of  readers.*  We  shall,  how- 
ever, endeavour  to  exhibit  a  view  of  some  of  the  more 
remarkable  features  of  that  department. 

Among  birds  of  prey,  the  eagle  tribe  naturally  claim  our 
first  attention ;  but  as  it  seems  to  be  the  practice  of  naturalists 
to  give  the  vultures  the  precedence,  we  shall  adhere  to  the 
usual  course. 

The  turkey-vulture,  or  turkey-buzzard,  as  it  is  called  in 
America  ( Catharfes  aura),  so  common  in  the  United  States, 
occurs  in  the  central  districts  of  the  fur-countries  as  far 


^    I 


^   i 


i 


*  American  Ornithology,  or  the  Natural  History  of  the  Birds  of  the 
United  States.  By  Alexander  Wilson  and  Charles  Lucian  Bonaparte ; 
edited  hy  Robert  Jameson,  Esq.,  F.R.S.E  Sc  L.,  &c.,  four  volumes. 
Edinburgh,  1831.  In  this  edition  (which  forms  volumes  78-81  of  Con- 
stable's Miscellany)  the  subjects  are  systematically  arranged  for  the  first 
time,  and  many  interesting  additions  have  been  inserted  by  the  distin- 
guished editor. 


I 


in 

t 


]  , 


276 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


north  as  the  fifty-fourth  degree.  It  is  partially  migratory, 
even  in  the  middle  states,  and  retires  southwards  on  the  ap- 
proach of  winter.  During  their  summer  migration,  a  certain 
number  of  individuals  reach  the  banks  of  the  Saskatchawan, 
where  they  usually  make  their  appearance  when  the  month 
of  June  is  far  advanced,  and  after  all  the  other  summer- 
birds  have  arrived  and  settled  in  their  leafy  arbours. 
Though  gregarious  in  the  more  southern  parts  of  North 
America,  where  they  roost  together,  and  also  both  fly  and 
feed  in  flocks,  seldom  more  than  a  pair  are  seen  in  company 
towards  their  northern  limits.  They  feed  on  carrion,  which 
they  discover  at  a  great  distance  by  the  sense  of  sight  alone  ; 
for  it  appears  by  recent  observation  that  their  sense  of  smell 
is  extremely  defective.  They  usually  breed  on  the  stump 
of  a  decayed  tree,  and  have  been  observed  t*^  return  to  the 
same  spot  for  a  series  of  successive  years.  They  are  not 
only  foul  feeders,  but  sometimes  gorge  themselves  so  im- 
moderately as  to  be  incapable  for  some  time  afterward 
of  taking  wing.  Mr.  Ord  has  recorded  that  a  man  of  Dela- 
ware, observing  a  group  of  turkey- buzzards  regaling  them- 
selves upon  the  putrid  carcass  of  a  horse,  and  having  a  mind 
to  capture  one  of  them,  he  cautiously  approached  the  flock, 
and  suddenly  seized  one  of  the  fattest  in  his  arms.  The 
indignant  vulture,  however,  immediately  disgorged  such  a 
torrent  of  filth  in  his  face,  as  to  produce  the  effect  of  a 
powerful  emetic,  and  cured  him  for  ever  after  of  all  desire 
to  catch  any  more  turkey-buzzards. 

The  golden-eagle  {Aqvila  chrysatos),  of  which  the  ring- 
tail {F,  fulvus)  is  regarded  as  the  young,  breeds  among  the 
sub-alpine  recesses  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  tail- 
feathers  are  highly  valued  by  many  tribes  of  American 
Indians  for  adorning  their  calumets  or  pipes  of  peace. 
The  solitary  habits  of  these  birds,  and  the  usually  inacces- 
sible nature  of  the  vast  precipices  where  they  hang  their 
"  procreant  cradles,"  prevent  our  acquiring  much  know- 
ledge of  the  distinctive  habits  of  the  species,  and  hence 
our  diflliculty  in  discriminating  between  the  American  and 
European  kinds.  Wilson  observed  the  ring-tail  sailing 
along  the  alpine  declivities  of  the  White  Mountains  of 
New-Hampshire,  and  over  the  Highlands  of  Hudson's 
Riveri  and  the  adult  bird,  in  the  plumage  of  the  golden- 
eagle,  has  also  been  observed  in  the  United  States.     The 


\^ 


BIRDS. 


277 


Yiaion  of  this  bird  is  said  to  be  so  acute  and  lonff-sighted 
that  it  can  discover  its  prey  from  a  height  at  which  it  is 
itself  scarcely  visible,  notwithstanding  the  breadth  of  its 
wide-expanded  wings.  "A  story  is  current,"  says  Dr. 
Richardson,  "  on  the  plains  of  the  S.askatchawan,  of  a  half- 
breed  Indian  who  was  vaunting  his  prowess  betbre  a  band 
of  his  countrymen,  and  wishing  to  impress  them  with  a 
belief  of  his  supernatural  powers.  In  the  midst  of  his 
harangue  an  eagle  was  observed  suspended,  as  it  were,  in 
the  air  directly  over  his  head,  upon  which,  pointing  aloft 
with  his'  dagger,  which  glistened  brightly  in  the  sun,  he 
called  upon  the  royal  bird  to  come  down.  To  his  own 
amazement,  no  less  than  to  the  consternation  of  the  sur- 
rounding Indians,  the  eagle  seemed  to  obey  the  charm,  for 
instantly  shooting  down  with  the  velocity  of  an  arrow,  it 
impaled  itself  on  the  point  of  his  weapon  !"* 

A  large  and  powerful  species,  more  generally  known  in 
America,  though  not  peculiar  to  the  New  World,  is  the  bald- 
eagle  (Aquila  leucoccphala).  It  resides  all  the  year  in  the 
United  States,  but  is  a  bird  of  passage  in  those  more  north- 
ern countries  which  lie  between  Great  Slave  Lake  and  Lake 
Superior.  Fish  form  the  fiwourite  food  of  the  bald-eagle, 
and  there  seems  something  more  tyrannical  in  his  mode  of 
obtaining  it  than  altogether  accords  with  the  equality  of 
republican  legislation.  "  Elevated,"  says  Wilson,  "  on  the 
high  dead  limb  of  some  gigantic  tree,  that  commands  a  wide 
view  of  the  neighbouring  shore  and  ocean,  he  seems  calmly 
to  contemplate  the  motions  of  the  various  feathered  tribes 
that  pursue  their  busy  avocations  below.  The  snow-white 
gulls,  slowly  winnowing  the  air  ;  the  busy  tring(By  coursing 
along  the  sands ;  trains  of  ducks,  streaming  over  the  sur- 
face ;  silent  and  watchful  cranes,  intent  and  wading ; 
clamorous  crows,  and  ull  the  winged  multitudes  that  subsist 
by  the  bounty  of  this  vast  liquid  magazine  of  nature  : 
high  over  all  these  hovers  one  whose  action  instantly  arrests 

*  Fauna  Boreali-Americana,  vol.  ii.,  tbe  Birds.  By  William  Swainsbn, 
Esq.,  F.R.S..  F.L.S.,  dec,  and  John  Richardson,  M.D.,  F.R.S.,  F.L.S., 
Surgeon  and  Naturalist  to  the  Expeditions.  I^ndon,  1831.  This  skil- 
ful and  beauiifiilly  illustrated  work  is  one  or  the  most  valuable  volumes 
which  has  recently  appeared  on  the  subject  orornithology ;  and,  viewed  in 
connexion  with  the  preceding  publications  or  Wilson,  C.  L.  Bonaparte, 
and  Audubon,  it  goes  far  u>  complete  our  knowledge  of  the  feathered 
tribes  of  tks  aortlmra  regions  off  th«  fftrw  World. 

Aa 


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278 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


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all  his  attention.  By  his  wide  curvature  of  wing,  and  sud- 
den suspension  in  the  air,  he  knows  him  to  be  the  fish^hawk, 
settling  over  some  devoted  victim  of  the  deep.  His  eye 
kindles  at  the  sight,  and  balancilig  himself,  with  half-opened 
wings,  on  the  branch,  he  watches  the  result.  Down,  rapid 
as  an  arrow,  from  heaven  descends  the  object  of  his  atten- 
tion ;  the  roar  of  its  wings,  reaching  the  ear  as  it  disappears 
in  the  deep,  making  the  surges  foam  around  !  At  this  mo- 
ment the  eager  looks  of  the  eagle  are  all  ardour,  and  level- 
ling his  neck  for  flight,  he  sees  the  fish-hawk  once  more 
emerge,  struggling  with  his  prey,  and  mounting  in  the  air 
with  screams  of  exultation.  These  are  the  signal  for  our 
hero,  who,  launching  into  the  air,  instantly  gives  chase,  and 
soon  gains  on  the  fish-hawk  ;  each  exerts  his  utmost  to 
mount  above  the  other,  displaying  in  these  rencounters  the 
most  sublime  aerial  evolutions.  The  unencumbered  eagle 
rapidly  advances,  and  is  just  on  the  point  of  reaching  his 
opponent,  when,  with  a  sudden  scream,  probably  of  despair 
and  honest  execration,  the  latter  drops  his  fish  ;  the  eagle, 
poising  himself  for  a  moment,  as  if  to  take  a  more  certain 
aim,  descends  like  a  whirlwind,  snatches  it  in  his  grasp  ere 
it  reaches  the  water,  and  bears  his  ill-gotten  booty  silently 
away  to  the  woods."* 

Of  the  smaller  tribes  of  the  Falconida  which  inhabit  the 
fur-countries,  we  shall  satisfy  ourselves  by  a  simple  enume- 
ration of  the  names,  t  and  proceed  to  the  nocturnal  birds  of 
prey. 

Of  the  Strigid(Bf  or  owls,  Mr.  Swainson  has  observed, 
"They  present  an  assemblage  of  birds  as  united  among 
themselves  as  they  are  distinct  from  all  others.  There  is, 
we  believe,  no  one  species  yet  discovered  which  even  a 

*  American  Ornithology,  vol.  i.  p.  23.  We  quote  Professor  Jameson's 
edition  througliout  this  volume. 

t  The  peregrine  falcon  (F.  peregrinvs),  the  jerfalcon  (F.  islandicus\ 
the  American  sparrow-hawk  (F.sparverius),  the  pigeon-hawk  (F.  colum- 
hariua),  the  merlin  (F.  cesalon),  the  goshawk  (F.  pcdumbarms),  the 
state-coloured  hawk  (F.  Pennsylvanicus),  the  common  buzzard  (F. 
huteo),  the  red-tailed  or  American  buzzard  (F.  borealis),  the  rough-legged 
Mcon  (F.  lagopus),  the  American  ring-tail  (F.  cyaneus?).  The  preced- 
ing, with  three  species  of  eagle,  raise  the  amount  of  northern  accipitrine 
diurnal  birds  to  fourteen.  C.  L.  Bonaparte  enumerates  sevBnteen  species 
in  his  **  Synopsis,"  and  has  described  an  eighteenth  in  his  Sapplsment 
to  Wilson,  under  the  name  of  Falco  Cooperi.  Mr.  Aadubon  hu  ItkewiM 


1 
I 


or  Jameson's 


BIRDS. 


279 


common  observer  would  not  immediately  pronounce  to  be 
an  owl,  or  would  be  in  danger  of  confounding  with  a  hawk 
or  goat-sucker,  the  only  two  groups  to  which  the  Strigide 
are  related  in  immediate  affinity.  Yet,  although  this  rela- 
tionship is  too  obvious  to  be  doubted,  it  must  be  confessed 
that  a  considerable  hiatus  intervenes  between  both.  Whe- 
ther these  will  be  lessenec)  by  future  discoveries,  or  whether 
owls,  like  the  parrots,  are  in  some  degree  an  isolated  group, 
whose  aberrant  forms  no  longer  exist,  are  points  which  may 
always  remain  in  obscurity." 

The  largest  of  the  North  American  species  is  the  great 
cinereous  owl  {Strix  cinerea).  It  inhabits  a  vast  extent  of 
woody  territory  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  the  Pacific.  It  is 
common  along  the  shores  of  Great  Bear  Lake,  and  of  course 
in  these  and  other  higher  latitudes  must  of  necessity  pursue 
its  prey  by  daylight,  the  mantle  sf  night  being  there  a  thing 
unknown  during  the  summer  season.  However,  it  hunts 
chiefly  when  the  sun  is  low,  and  when  the  shadows  of  the 
great  woods  are  deep  and  lengthened ;  for  it  is  then  that 
the  American  hares  and  many  murine  animaJs  which  form 
its  favourite  food  are  themselves  abroad.  On  the  23d  of 
May,  Dr.  Richardson  discovered  a  nest  of  the  cinereous 
owl,  made  of  sticks  and  lined  with  feathers,  on  the  top  of  a 
lofty  balsam  poplar-tree.  It  contained  three  young,  covered 
over  with  a  whitish  down.  He  could  only  get  the  nest  by 
felling  the  tree,  which  was  a  remarkably  thick  one  ;  and 
while  the  operation  was  going  on,  the  about  to  be  berei^ved 
parents  flew  in  anxious  and  repeated  circles  abov  ^nd 
around  the  objects  of  their  long  solicitude,  keeping,  hoyr~ 
ever,  so  high  in  the  air  as  to  be  beyond  gunshot.  I'he 
young  were  kept  alive  for  a  period  of  two  months,  after 
which  they  effected  their  escape.  This  species  measures 
about  two  feet  in  length  from  bill  to  tail. 

The  Virginian  horned-owl  {Strix  Virginiana)  is  another 
large  species  peculiar  to  America,  but  very  widely  diffused 

dedicated  a  new  species,  under  the  name  of  Faleo  Stanleii,  to  the  noble 
president  of  the  Linnsean  Society.  Four  of  Bonaparte's  list,  vii.  F. 
plumbeits,  F.  melanopterus,  F.  jureatus,  and  F.  Pentisylvanicus,  B., 
seem  to  occur  only  in  the  southern  parts  of  the  United  States,  and  there- 
fore do  not  fall  within  our  limits ;  but  three  others,  the  Stanley-hawk 
above  named,  along  with  Buteo  Sancti-Johannis  and  B.  hyemeUis,  are 
supposed  to  be  northern  birds.  The  arctic  range  of  Mr.  Audubon's 
soecies  is  probably  still  unknown. 


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280 


NATURAL    HI'JTORV. 


over  the  New  World.  It  was  killed  by  Mr.  Drummond 
among  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  is  known  to  inhabit  the 
table-lnnda  of  Mexico,  and  even  the  species  from  the  Straits 
of  Magellan  (Planches  Enluminics^  58b)  appears  to  be  iden- 
tical. In  the  United  States  it  is  extremely  common,  and 
inhabits  the  fur-countries  wherever  the  timber  is  of  large 
size.  Its  loud  nocturnal  cries,  issuing  from  the  gloomiest 
recesses  of  the  forest,  are  said  to  bear  a  resemblance  to  a 
hollow  and  sepulchral  human  voice,  and  have  thus  been  the 
frequent  source  of  alarm  to  the  benighted  traveller.  A 
party  of  Scottish  Highlanders,  in  the  service  of  the  Hudson^s 
bay  Company,  happened  in  a  winter*s  journey  to  encamp 
after  nightfall  in  a  dense  clump  of  trees,  the  dark  tops  of 
which,  and  their  lofty  stems,  gave  a  solemnity  to  the  scene, 
strongly  excitable  of  superstitious  feelings.  The  solemn 
effect  was  heightened  by  the  discovery  of  a  tomb,  which, 
with  a  natural  taste  not  unfrequently  exhibited  by  the  In- 
dians, was  placed  in  the  centre  of  this  secluded  spot.  The 
travellers  had  finished  their  evening  repast,  and  were  trim- 
ming their  fira  for  the  night,  when  ^r  the  first  time  the  slow 
and  dismal  tones  of  the  horned-owl  fell  on  their  ear.  They 
at  once  concluded  that  a  voice  so  mysterious  and  unearthly 
must  be  the  moaning  spirit  of  the  departed,  whose  hallowed 
fane  they  bad  disturbed  by  inadvertently  making  a  fire  of  the 
timber  of  his  tomb.  They  consequently  passeda  long  night 
of  sleepless  fear,  and  gladly  quitted  the  ill-omened  spot 
with  the  earliest  dawn.* 

In  our  notices  of  these  and  other  well-known  species,  we 
consider  it  unnecessary  to  enter  into  any  minute  descriptive 
details  of  plumage,  preferring  rather  tio  illustrate  their  his- 
tory, distribution,  and  general  modes  of  life,  as  more  likely 
to  interest  the  majority  of  readers.  In  the  case,  however, 
of  any  new  or  remarkable  discovery,  we  may  occasionally 
deviate  from  this  rule,  and,  as  an  exception  to  our  usual 
practice,  we  may  here  take  an  elegant  species  recently  de- 
scribed for  the  first  time  under  the  name  of  the  arctic  or 
white-horned  owl  (Strix  arcticd).  This  fine  owl  is  exceed- 
ingly rare,  only  a  single  specimen  having  been  seen  by  the 
overland  expeditions.  It  measures  about  two  feet  in  length. 
Its  general  colour  is  white,  tinged  here  and  there  with  brown 

• 

*  Fauna  Boreali-Amerioina,  vol.  11.  p.  88. 


\ 


^ 


BIRDS. 


281 


Upon  the  dorsal  aspect,  and  marked  with  crowded  transverse 
blackish-brown  bars  and  lines.  The  ground-colour  of  the 
under  portion  of  the  plumage  is  of  a  brilliant  white,  banded 
on  the  throat  and  flanks.  The  facial  disk  is  imperfect,  the 
ear-feathers  are  ample,  the  tail  rounded,  the  bill  short  and 
strong.  This  bird  was  killed  at  Carlton  House,  in  the 
month  of  May. 

We  now  enter  upon  a  short  consideration  of  the  Inses- 
aortal  or  perching-birds,  as  they  are  called  by  the  modern 
systematists.  The  order  includes  the  Pica  and  Passcrca 
of  the  Linnsean  arrangement.  We  commence  with  the 
butcher-birds,  genus  Lanius. 

The  American  gray-shrike  {Lanius  excuhitorides  of  Swain- 
eon),  a  newly-ascertained  species,  bears  a  great  resemblance 
to  the  a<:h-coloured  shrike  of  Europe.  It  does  not  advance 
farther  to  the  northward  than  the  fifty-fourth  degree,  and 
seems  to  attain  to  that  latitude  only  in  the  meridian  of  the 
warm  and  sandy  plains  of  the  Saskatchawan,  which  are 
said  to  enjoy  an  earlier  spring  and  longer  summer  than  the 
densely- wooded  countries  between  them  and  Hudson's  Bay. 
It  builds  among  willow-bushes,  feeds  on  grasshoppers,  and 
lays  six  eggs  of  a  pale  yellowish-gray,  irregularly  spotted 
with  green  and  gray. 

Allied  to  the  shrikes  in  many  particulars  are  the  tyrant 
fly-catchers.  The  king-bird  {Tyranmts  intrepidus)  is  one 
of  the  most  remarkable  for  the  boldness  and  reckless  daring 
which  he  displays  in  his  attacks  on  the  largest  of  the  fea^ 
thered  race.  During  the  earlier  months  of  summer,  his  life 
is  one  continued  scene  of  broil  and  battle.  According  to 
Wilson,  hawks  and  crows,  the  bald-eagle,  and  the  great 
black-eagle,  all  equally  dread  an  encounter  with  this  daunt- 
less creature,  who,  as  soon  as  he  perceives  a  bird  of  prey,  how- 
ever powerful,  in  his  neighbourhood,  darts  into  the  air,  and 
quickly  ascending  above  his  supposed  enemy,  pounces  with 
violence  upon  his  back,  and  continues  his  attack  till  his  own 
domains  have  been  departed  from.  He  is  likewise  ob- 
noxious to  the  human  race,  on  account  of  his  love  of  bees ; 
for  he  will  take  post  on  a  fence  or  garden-tree  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  hives,  and  make  continual  sallies  on  the  industrious 
insects  as  they  pass  to  or  from  their  never-ending  labours. 
The  American  ornithologist  has  given  a  poetical  version  of 

Aa2 


f  '. 


iJr 


I       I 


f 


t  ,  I 


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i 


Nl 


.1 


282 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


the  life  of  this  lively  speciei,  of  which  the  following  U  the 
commencement : — 

"  Ftr  in  the  south  whem  vast  Maragnon  (Iowa, 
And  boundloaM  forestH  unknown  wildii  encloaa ; 
Vtne-taiigled  shores  and  siiflTocating  woods, 
Parch'd  up  with  heal,  or  drown'd  with  (louring  flooda ; 
Where  each  extreme  alternately  prevaila, 
And  nature  sad  their  ravajres  bewails ; 
1.0 1  hi|{h  in  air  above  those  trackless  wastes ; 
With  sprins's  return  the  king-bird  hither  haste* ; 
Coaataibe  fkmed  guif,*  and,  lYoin  his  height,  explortfl 
Its  thonsrtnd  streams,  its  long  indented  shores, 
Its  plains  immense,  wide  opening  on  the  day. 
Its  lakes  and  isles,  where  fbather'd  millions  play; 
All  tempt  not  him  :  till,  gating  from  on  high, 
Columbian  regions  wide  below  him  lie ; 
There  end  his  wand'rings  and  his  wish  to  roam, 
There  lie  his  native  woods,  his  fields,  his  home ; 
Down,  circling,  he  descends,  from  azure  heights, 
And  on  a  full-blown  sassarras  alights. 

Fatigued  and  silent,  for  a  while  he  views 
His  old  rrequented  haunts,  and  shades  recluse ; 
Sees  brothers,  cotnrsdea,  every  hour  arrive,— 
Hears,  humming  round,  the  tenants  of  the  hive. 
Love  flres  his  breast ;  he  woos,  and  soon  is  bleat, 
\nd  in  the  blooming  orchard  builds  his  neat."— 

And  so  on.  The  king-bird  migrates  in  summer  at  least  as 
far  north  as  the  fifty-seventh  parallel.  It  reaches  Carlton 
House  in  the  month  of  May,  and  retires  southward  in 
September.     It  feeds  on  insects  and  wild  berries. 

A  new  species  of  this  genus  has  been  lately  described 
under  the  title  of  northern  tyrant  (Tyrannns  borealis, 
Swainson).  It  was  shot  on  the  banks  of  the  Saskatcha- 
wan,  but  nothing  is  known  of  its  habits.  It  is  consider- 
ably smaller  than  the  preceding,  and  may  at  once  be  dis- 
tinguished from  it  by  its  forked  tail,  not  tipped  with  white. 

Among  the  Merulida  or  thrushes  we  may  here  mention 
the  representative  of  our  water-ouzel,  the  American  dipper 
{Cinclus  Americanus).  Although  ascertained  by  Mr.  W. 
Bullock  to  be  an  inhabitant  of  Mexico,  and  obtained  by  Mr. 
Drummond  on  the  eastern  declivity  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
near  the  sources  of  the  Athabasca  River,  it  does  not  yet  ap- 
pear to  have  been  detected  in  the  intermediate  regions  of 

*  or  Mexico. 


,1 


BlRDf. 


288 


the  United  Stntei.  According  to  Bonapnrtc,  this  Bpecies 
measuren  eight  inches  und  >i  half.  It  is  consequently 
longer  than  the  European  dipper  or  water-crow.  The 
general  plumage  is  dark-grayish  slate-colour.  The  legs 
and  feet  are  flesh-colour.  We  as  yet  know  nothing  of  the 
habits  of  the  American  species,  hut  its  European  congener 
dwells  single  or  in  pairs  by  the  side  of  clear  and  swift- 
running  streams.  It  walks  under  water  in  search  of  prey, 
wading  in  from  the  shore,  and  remaining  for  some  time  sub- 
merged.* 

The  bird  called  robin  in  America  is  the  red-breasted 
thrush  of  Pennant  {Turdus  migratorius).  It  is  one  of  their 
best  known  and  earliest  songsters.  While  the  fields  are 
yet  dappled  with  snow,  they  are  seen  in  flocks,  and  some 
few  lively  aspirants  will  even  then  mount  to  the  top  of  a 
post,  and  make  attempts  at  song.  As  the  season  advances 
their  notes  are  universally  heard,  and  as  universally  beloved, 
and  are  regarded  as  the  "  prelusive  symphony"  to  the  great 
concert  which  is  about  to  burst  ere  long  from  numerous 
bills,  from  every  thicket,  wood,  and  field.  Although  re- 
garded with  much  of  the  same  feeling  as  that  which  we 
ourselves  entertain  towards  our  own  household  bird,  the  red- 
breast, they  are,  nevertheless,  brought  to  market  in  great 
numbers,  and  Wilson  mentions  that  in  the  month  of  Janu- 
ary, 1S07,  two  young  men  shot  thirty  dozen  in  a  single 
excursion.  This  species  inhabits  the  whole  of  North 
America  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  Nootka  Sound,  and  as  far 
south  as  Georgia,  though  they  are  said  rarely  to  breed  on 
this  side  the  mountains  farther  south  than  Virginia.  "  With- 
in the  Arctic  Circle,"  Dr.  Richardson  has  beautifully  ob- 
served, "  the  woods  are  silent  in  the  bright  light  of  noon- 
day ;  but  towards  midnight,  when  the  sun  travels  near  the 
horizon,  and  the  shades  of  the  forest  are  lengthened,  the 
concert  commences,  and  continues  till  six  or  seven  in  the 
morning.     Even  in  those  remote  regions  the  mistake  of 

*  Wliile  engaged  in  the  correction  of  these  sheets  for  the  press,  w^ 
bave  been  favoured  by  Sir  William  Jnrdine  with  a  copy  of  his  yet  un- 
published edition  or  WilKoirs  American  Oniitholojiy.  Many  valuable 
notes  have  been  appended  by  the  editor  to  illustrulc  the  general  distribu- 
tion or  those  groups,  or  which  there  are  American  represteiitalives.  The 
•applementary  volumes  by  C.  L.  Hoiiaparte  are  included;  and  most  of 
tbe  new  species  discovered  or  described  by  Messrs.  Swainsou,  Richard- 
■OD,  and  Audubon,  are  likewise  inserted  or  referred  to. 


I 


ft, 


'.  I 


,i  t 


'jm 


■ 


284 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


those  naturalists  who  have  asserted  that  the  feathered  tribetf 
of  America  are  void  of  harmony  mig  it  be  fully  disproved. 
Indeed,  the  transition  is  so  sudden  from  the  perfect  repose, 
the  deathlike  silence  of  an  Arctic  winter,  to  the  animated 
bustle  of  summer ;  the  trees  spread  their  foliage  with  such 
magical  rapidity,  and  every  succeeding  morning  opens  with 
such  agreeable  accessions  of  feathered  songsters  to  swell- 
the  chorus — their  plumage  as  gay  and  unimpaired  as  when 
they  enlivened  the  deep  green  forests  of  tropical  climes— 
that  the  return  of  a  northern  spring  excites  in  the  mind  a 
deep  feeling  of  the  beauties  of  the  season,  a  sense  of  the 
bounty  and  providence  of  the  Supreme  Being,  which  is 
cheaply  purchased  by  the  tedium  of  nine  months  of  winter. 
The  most  verdant  lawns  and  cultivated  glades  of  Europe, 
the  most  beautiful  productions  of  art,  faU  in  producing 
that  exhilaration  and  joyous  buoyancy  of  mind  which  we 
have  experienced  in  treading  the  wilds  of  Arctic  America, 
when  their  snowy  covering  has  been  just  replaced  by  an  in- 
fant but  vigorous  vegetation.  It  is  impossible  for  the  traveller 
to  refrain,  at  such  moments,  from  jcininor  his  aspirations  to 
the  song  which  every  creature  around  is  pouring  forth  to 
the  Great  Creator."  This  is  finely  said,  and  loses  none  of 
its  force  as  proceeding  from  the  pen  of  one  not  given  to 
affect  a  sickly  sentimentalism,  but  who  has  ever  had  to  do 
more  with  the  practice  than  the  poetry  of  life  and  nature. 
In  a  similar  strain  so  also  wrote  the  divine  Milton, — ^but 
to  whom  the  freshness  of  spring,  the  azured  mantle  of 
the  glorious  summer,  and  the  vaned  splendour  of  the  far- 
spreading  autumnal  forests,  were  .then  only  as  visions  of 
the  past— • 

"  So  thick  a  drop  serene 
Had  qaench'd  bis  orbs,  or  dim  suffUsion  veil'd.". 

Of  many  beautiful  and  interesting  species  of  the  family 
of  the  Syhiadcs  which  enliven  the  countries  of  our  present 
inquiry,  we  shall  confine  our  observations  to  the  blue-birds. 

The  common  blue-bird  {Saxicola  sialism  Bon.,  Erythaca 
WUsoniiy  Swain.)  has  the  whole  of  the  upper  plumage  of 
a  fine  blue,  while  the  throat,  neck,  breast,  and  flanks  are 
bright  orange-brown.  The  general  character  and  move- 
ments of  tlus  bird  resemble  those  of  the  European  red- 


BIRDS. 


285 


•red  tribe* 
lisproved. 
ct  repose, 
animated 
with  such 
►pens  with 
rs  to  swell- 
(1  as  when 
\  climes— 
the  mind  a 
snse  of  the 
which  is 
of  winter, 
of  Europe, 
producing 
which  we 
ic  America, 
ed  by  an  in- 
the  traveller 
ipirations  to 
ring  forth  to 
>se8  none  of 
lot  given  to 
r  had  to  do 
and  nature, 
klilton,— but 
i  mantle  of 
r  of  the  far- 
s  visions  of 


ne 

of  the  family 
our  present 
He  blue-birds. 
JErythaca 
plumage  of 
id  flanks  are 
and  move- 
uropean  led- 


n. 


r 


breast,  and  he  is  himself  as  familiarly  known  in  summer  to 
the  children  of  America,  as  the  robin  is  to  ourselves  in  the 
winter  season.  Wilson  informs  us  that  the  society  of  the 
blue-bird  is  much  courted  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  country, 
and  that  few  farmers  neglect  to  provide  for  him  a  snug 
little  summer-house,  ready  fitted  and  rent-free.  He  is 
migratory  over  the  northern  districts,  but  a  few  remain 
throughout  the  winter  in  some  parts  of  the  United  States. 

A  newly-discovered  species,  nearly  allied  to  the  preceding, 
is  named  by  Mr.  Swainson  the  Arctic  blue^bird  {Erythaca 
Arctica).  Its  colour  is  a  fine  ultramarine  blue  above,  be- 
neath greenish-blue,  and  whitish  on  the  lower  part  of  the 
abdomen  and  under  tailcoverts.  The  only  specimen  pro- 
cured by  the  overland  expedition  was  shot  at  Fort  Frank- 
lin in  July,  1825.  It  is  merely  a  summer  visiter  of  the  fur- 
countries,  and  no  knowledge  of  its  haunts  or  habits  has  been 
yet  obtained. 

To  illustrate  the  Ampelidm  we  shall  merely  mention  the 
American  cedar-bird,  or  chatterer  of  Carolina,  as  it  was 
called  by  Edwards  {BombycilUi  Americana).  This  bird  was 
regarded  by  the  naturalists  of  last  century  as  a  mere  variety 
of  the  European  or  Bohemian  chatterer.  It  is,  however, 
a  distinct  species,  of  smaller  size,  and  has  no  white  upon 
the  wings  ;  the  chin  has  less  black,  and  the  bill  is  shorter 
and  somewhat  broader.  The  European  bird  has  also  been 
detected  in  North  America  by  Mr.  Drummond  and  Dr. 
Richardson. 

The  well-known  snovr-hunting  (Emberiza  nivalis)  is  com- 
mon to  the  New  and  Old  World.  "  Near  the  large  grave," 
says  Captain  Lyon,  "  was  a  third  pile  of  stones  covering 
the  body  of  a  child  which  was  coiled  up  in  the  same  man- 
ner. A  snow-bunting  had  found  its  way  through  the  loose 
stones  which  composed  this  little  tomb,  and  its  now  for- 
saken, neatly  built  nest,  was  found  placed  on  the  neck  of 
the  child.  As  the  snow-hunting  has  all  the  domestic  vir- 
tues of  our  English  redbreast,  it  has  always  been  considered 
by  us  as  the  robin  of  these  dreary  wilds,  and  its  lively  chirp 
and  fearless  confidence  have  rendered  it  respected  by  the 
most  hungry  sportsmcan.  I  could  not  on  this  occasion  view 
its  little  nest  placed  on  the  breast  of  infancy,  without  wish- 
ing that  I  possessed  the  power  of  poetically  expressing  the 


u 


ii 


m 


i 


286 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


n 


'. 


feelings  it  excited."*  The  bold  navigator  may  rest  assured 
that  his  simple  recital  of  this  circumstance  is  much  more 
effective  and  pictorial  than  if  he  had  recourse  to  a  rhyming 
dictionary.  The  Lapland  bunting  {E.  Lapponica)  is  also 
found  in  the  northern  regions  of  both  continents ;  and  a 
beautiful  species,  nearly  allied  to  it,  the  painted  bunting  {Plec- 
trophanespicta  of  Swainson),  was  lately  discovered  on  the 
banks  of  the  Saskatchawan.  For  the  history  and  description 
of  these,  as  well  as  of  many  beautiful  larks  and  finches, 
we  must  r(.fer  the  reader  to  the  works  already  mentioned. 

The  pine-grosbeak  {Pyrrhula  enucleator)  is  the  largest 
of  the  bullfinch  tribe.  It  measures  above  eleven  inches  in 
length.  Of  the  grosbeaks,  properly  so  called  (genus  Coc- 
cothrauste8\  the  gayest  and  most  remarkable  is  called  the 
evening-grosbeak  (C  vespertina,  Bon.).  It  is  a  common 
inhabitant  of  the  maple-groves  which  adorn  the  plains  of 
the  Saskatchawan,  and  is  known  to  the  natives  by  the  name 
of  seesebasquit'pethaysishy  which,  being  interpreted,  signi- 
fies sugar-bird.  According  to  Mr.  Swainson's  views,  this 
is  the  only  genuine  species  of  the  genus  hitherto  discovered 
in  America.     We  owe  it  to  the  observance  of  Mr.  Cooper.t 

The  scarlet  tanager  {Tanagra  rubra)  is  one  of  the  most 
brilliant  of  those  southern  species  which  during  the  summer 
migration  shed  their  lustre  over  more  northern  lands.  The 
whole  plumage,  with  the  exception  of  the  wings  and  tail, 
is  of  the  most  vivid  carmine-red.  The  wing-coverts,  pos- 
terior secondaries,  and  middle  tail-feathers  are  black,  and 
form  a  rich  contrast  to  the  other  portions  of  the  plumage. 
After  the  autumnal  moult,  the  male  becomes  dappled  with 
greenish-yellow.  The  plumage  of  the  female  is  green  above 
and  yellow  below ;  her  wings  and  tail  are  brownish-black, 
edged  with  green.  Though  this  species  sometimes  builds 
in  orchards,  and  visits  the  cherry-trees  for  the  sake  of  their 
fruit,  it  doesfiot  frequently  approach  the  habitations  of  man, 
but  prefers  the  solitude  of  the  umbrageous  woods.  In  ad- 
dition to  firuits,  its  food  consists  of  large  winged  insects, 
such  as  wasps,  hornets,  and  bumblebees.  The  scarlet 
tanager  is  as  yet  unknown  beyond  the  forty-ninth  parallel, 
and  80  comes  just  within  the  southern  limits  of  the  fur- 

*  Narrative  of  an  A  ttempt  to  reach  Repulse  Bay, 
t  Ado.  Lye.  New- York,  vol.  i.  p.  2S0. 


^ 


BIRDS. 


287 


assured 
ich  more 
rhyming 
i)  is  also 
I ;  and  a 
ing  (Piec- 
ed on  the 
escription 
J  finches, 
jntioned. 
16  largest 
inches  in 
;enu8  Coc- 
called  the 
a  common 
lc  plains  of 
f  the  name 
Bted,  signi- 
views,  this 
,  discovered 
r.  Cooper.t 
)f  the  most 
the  summer 
ands.    The 
gs  and  tail, 
Iverts,  pos- 
hlack,  and 
le  plumage, 
appled  with 
green  ahove 
vnish-black, 
times  builds 
lake  of  their 
ions  of  man, 
ods.     In  ad- 
red  insects. 
The  scarlet 
inth  parallel, 
of  the  fur- 
Bay. 


countries.  The  following  interesting  narrative  is  gfven  by 
Alexander  Wilson  : — "  Passing  through  an  orchard  one 
morning,  I  caught  one  of  these  young  birds,  that  had  but 
lately  left  the  nest.  I  carried  it  with  me  about  half  a 
mile,  to  show  it  to  my  friend  Mr.  William  Bartram ;  and 
having  procured  a  cage,  hung  it  up  on  one  of  the  large  pine- 
trees  in  the  botanic  garden,  within  a  few  feet  of  the  nest  of 
an  orchard-oriole,  which  also  contained  young,  hopeful  that 
the  charity  or  tenderness  of  the  orioles  would  induce  them 
to  supply  the  cravings  of  the  stranger.  But  charity  with 
them,  as  with  too  many  of  the  human  race,  began  and  ended 
at  home.  The  poor  orphan  was  altogether  neglected,  not- 
withstanding its  plaintive  cries  ;  and  as  it  refused  to  be  fed 
by  me,  I  was  about  to  return  it  back  to  the  place  where  I 
found  it,  when,  towards  the  afternoon,  a  scarlet  tanager,  no 
doubt  its  own  parent,  was  seen  fluttering  round  the  cage 
endeavouring  to  get  in.  Finding  this  impracticable,  he  flew 
off  and  soon  returned  with  food  in  his  bill,  and  continued 
to  feed  it  till  after  sunset,  taking  up  his  lodgings  in  the 
higher  branches  of  the  same  tree.  In  the  morning,  almost 
as  soon  as  day  broke,  he  was  again  seen  most  actively  en- 
gaged in  the  same  affectionate  manner  ;  and,  notwithstand- 
ing the  insolence  of  the  orioles,  continued  his  benevolent 
ofHces  the  whole  day,  roosting  at  night  as  before.  On  the 
third  or  fourth  day  he  appeared  extremely  solicitous  for  the 
liberation  of  his  charge,  using  every  expression  of  distressful 
anxiety,  and  every  call  and  invitation  that  nature  had  put  in 
his  power  for  him  to  come  out.  This  was  too  much  for  the 
feelings  of  my  venerable  friend  ;  he  procured  a  ladder,  and, 
mounting  to  the  spot  where  the  bird  was  suspended,  opened 
the  cage,  took  out  the  prisoner,  and  restored  him  to  liberty 
and  to  his  parent,  who,  with  notes  of  great  exultation,  ac- 
companied his  flight  to  the  woods.  The  happiness  of  my 
good  friend  was  scarcely  less  complete,  and  showed  itself  in 
his  benevolent  countenance  ;  and  I  could  not  refrain  saying 
to  myself — if  such  sweet  sensations  can  be  derived  from  a 
simple  circumstance  of  this  kind,  how  exquisite,  how  un- 
speakably rapturous,  must  the  delight  of  those  individuals 
have  been,  who  have  rescued  their  fellow-beings  from  death, 
chains,  and  imprisonment,  and  restored  them  to  the  arms  of 
their  friends  and  relations !     Surely  in  such  godlike  actions 


:  li'M 

•\i    («.  i  •  ■■ 

'*  •  j  1 

1 1 1 

1  hi 

V ' 

U' 

^  1 ,,:' 

'   11 

II 

Mi 

'm 

m 

n 


!  B 


288 


NATURAL    HISTOUY. 


' 


i 
I 


virtue  is  its  own  most  abundant  reward  !"^  Nevertheless, 
as  practical  ornithology  can  by  no  means  flourish  without 
powder  and  shot,  Wilson  continued  to  knock  down  as  many 
birds  as  he  required, — and  they  were  many, — for  the  space 
of  several  succeeding  years.  Alas !  that  the  latter  were 
80  few. 

More  allied  to  the  starling  tribe  is  a  bird  remarkable  for 
the  singularity  of  its  habits,  called  the  cowpen  or  cuckoo- 
bunting  {Emberiza  pecoris  of  Wilson),  classed  by  Mr. 
Swainson  in  the  genus  Molothrus,  It  visits  the  fur-coun- 
tries in  May,  and,  after  ranging  as  far  north  as  the  sixtieth 
parallel,  it  departs  in  September,  and  collecting  in  large 
flocks  during  the  ensuing  month  in  Penns3^1vania,  it  finally 
retires  to  winter-quarters  in  Mexico  and  the  most  southern 
parts  of  the  United  States.  It  feeds  on  grain,  grass,  and 
worms,  and  is  frequently  seen  perched  familiarly  on  the 
backs  of  cattle.  But  the  most  remarkable  trait  in  the 
character  of  this  species  is  its  practice  (like  that  of  our 
own  cuckoo)  of  laying  its  eggs  in  the  npsts  of  other  birds, 
and  abandoning  its  future  o^spring  to  the  care  of  strangers. 
The  yellow-throat  and -red-eyed  fly-catcher  are  most  fre- 
quently selected  to  perform  the  office  of  foster-parents. 

Passing  over  the  rice-bird,  the  Baltimore  oriole,  the  pur- 
ple grakle,  and  others  of  the  SturnidoRf  we  shall  here  briefly 
notice  the  family  of  the  crows.  The  raven.  ( Corrw*  corax,) 
which  occurs  in  all  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe,  is  abund- 
ant in  the  fur-countries ;  and  the  carrion-crow  ( C.  corone) 
also  occurs  there,  but  appears  to  be  of  a  less  hardy  nature, 
as  it  is  seen  in  the  interior  in  summer  only,  and  does  not 
seem  to  approach  within  500  or  600  miles  of  Hudson's  Bay. 
The  magpie  ( C  pica)  is  as  common  in  the  prairie  lands  of 
America  as  it  is  in  Europe.  Several  beautiful  jays  likewise 
occur  in  North  America. 

We  come  next  to  the  woodpeckers,  which  are  numerous 
and  widely  spread  over  the  American  continent,  as  might  be 
expected  in  connexion  with  the  vast  forests  with  which  so 
much  of  the  country  is  still  encumbered.    The  ivory-billed 

*  Anwrlean  Ornitbolbgy,  vol.  ii.  p.  SSa 


V 


niRDS. 


^## 


28D 


woodpecker  (Picks  pn'ncivalis)  is  undoubtedly  the  most 
magnificent  of  the  genus.  While  many  of  the  smaller 
kinds  seek  their  prey  in  the  orchard  or  shrubbery,  among 
rails,  fences,  or  prostrate  logs,  the  present  species  inhabit 
the  most  towering  trees  of  the  forest,  "  seeming  particularly 
attached  to  those  prodigious  cypress  swamps,  whose  crowded 
giant  sons  stretch  their  bare  and  blasted,  or  moss-hung 
arms,  midway  to  the  skies.  In  these  almost  inaccessible 
recesses,  amid  ruinous  piles  of  impending  timber,  his 
trumpet-like  notes  and  loud  strokes  resound  through  the 
solitary  savage  wilds,  of  which  he  seems  the  sole  lord  and 
master."  The  food  of  this  species,  Mr.  Audubon  informs 
us,  consists  chiefly  of  beetles,  larvse,  and  large  grubs.  No 
sooner,  however,  are  the  grapes  of  the  forest  ripened,  than 
they  are  eaten  by  the  ivory-billed  woodpecker  with  great 
avidity.  "  I  have  seen  this  bird,"  says  the  last-named  ex- 
cellent observer,  "hang  by  its  claws  to  the  vines,  in  the 
position  so  often  assumed  by  a  titmouse,  and,  reaching 
downwards,  help  itself  to  a  bunch  of  grapes  with  much 
apparent  pleasure."*  Although  we  have  introduced  a  no- 
tice of  this  fine  species,  we  are  not  aware  that  it  extends 
so  far  to  the  north  as  the  countries  with  which  we  are  at 
present  engaged.  It  is,  however,  well  known  in  many  of 
the  United  States.  A  much  more  northern  species  is  the 
three-toed  woodpecker  (P.  tridactylns  of  Swainson),  which 
exists  in  all  the  forests  of  spruce-fir  that  lie  between  Lake 
Superior  and  the  Arctic  Sea.  It  is  the  most  common  of  the 
species  that  occur  to  the  north  of  Great  Slave  Lake. 

The  varieties  of  the  feathered  race  are  inexhaustible. 
Hach  tribe  and  family  contains  many  familiar  and  well-re- 
membered species,  on  the  history  of  which  we  could  dilate 
with  pleasure ;  but  we  must  of  necessity  leave  even  the 
names  of  many  unrecorded.  Two  frail  and  fairy  beings, 
however,  seemingly  of  too  delicate  a  fabric  to  withstand  the 
rudeness  of  the  northern  blasts,  now  solicit  our  regard,  and 
as  they  have  flown  far  to  obtain  it,  we  must  here  insert  a 
compendious  history  of  the  North  American  humming-birds. 
Meanwhile,  let  us  borrow  the  words  of  the  enthusiastic 
Audubon.     They  apply  to  the  ruby-throated  species  {Tro' 


\ 


^ 

■i 

■••M 


W 


'>-\ 


(!■!' 


If 


*  Ornitbological  Biography,  vol.  i.  p.  344. 
Bb 


^ 


I 


1  \ 


290 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


chilus  colubrist  Linn.).  "  No  sooner  has  the  returning  aun 
again  introduced  the  vernal  season,  and  caused  millions  of 
plants  to  expand  their  leaves  and  blossoms  to  his  genial 
beams,  than  the  little  humming-bird  is  seen  advancing  on 
fairy-wings,  carefully  visiting  every  opening  flower-cup,  and 
like  a  curious  florist,  removing  from  each  the  injurious  in- 
sects that  otherwise  would,  ere  long,  cause  their  beauteous 
petals  to  droop  and  decay.  '  Poised  in  the  air,  it  is  observed 
peeping  cautiously  and  with  sparkling  eye  into  their  inner* 
most  recesses,  while  the  ethereal  motions  of  its  pinions,  so 
rapid  and  so  light,  appear  to  fan  and  cool  the  flower  without 
injuring  its  fragile  texture,  and  produce  a  delightful  mur- 
muring sound,  well  adapted  for  lulling  the  insects  to  repose. 
Then  is  the  moment  for  the  humming-bird  to  secure  them. 
Its  long  delicate  bill  enters  the  cup  of  the  flower,  and  the 
protruded  double-tubed  tongue,  delicately  sensible,  and  im- 
bued with  a  glutinous  saliva,  touches  each  insect  in  suc- 
cession, and  draws  it  from  its  lurking-place  to  be  instantly 
swallowed.  All  this  is  done  in  a  moment,  and  the  bird,  as 
it  leaves  the  flower,  sips  so  small  a  portion  of  its  liquid 
honey,  that  the  theft,  we  may  suppose,  is  looked  upon  with 
a  grateful  feeling  by  the  flower,  which  is  thus  kindly  relieved 
from  the  attacks  of  her  destroyers. 

"  The  prairies,  the  oi-chards,  and  gardens,  nay,  the  deep- 
est shades  of  the  forest,  are  all  visited  in  their  turn,  and 
everywhere  the  little  bird  meets  with  pleasure  and  with 
food.  Its  gorgeous  throat  in  beauty  and  brilliancy  bafiBes 
all  competition.  Now  it  glows  with  a  fiery  hue,  and  again 
it  is  changed  to  the  deepest  velvety  black.  The  upper  parts 
of  its  delicate  body  are  of  resplendent  changing  green,  and 
it  throws  itself  through  the  air  with  a  swiftness  and  vivacity 
hardly  conceivable.  It  moves  from  one  flower  to  another 
like  a  gleam  of  light,  upwards,  downwards,  to  the  right, 
and  to  the  left.  In  this  manner  it  searches  the  extreme 
northern  portions  of  our  country,  following  with  great  pre* 
caution  the  advances  of  the  season,  and  retreats  with 
equal  care  at  the  approach  of  autumn."* 

Tlie  nest  of  this  species  is  formed  with  a  delicacy  propor- 
tioned to  its  tiny  inmates.  The  external  parts  consist  of 
a  light-gray  lichen  found  on  the  branches  of  trees  or  on 


*  Ornithological  Biography,  vol.  1.  p.  948, 


filRDS. 


* 


291 


decayed  fence-rails,  and  so  trimly  arranged  around  the  nest, 
as  well  as  at  some  distance  from  the  spot  to  which  it  is  at- 
tached, as  to  appear  like  a  portion  of  the  stem.  These  little 
pieces  of  lichen  are  glued  together,  as  some  say,  with  the 
saliva  of  the  bird.  The  next  layer  consists  of  a  cottony 
substance,  and  the  innermost  of  silky  fibres  obtained  from 
various  plants,  but  all  extremely  soft  and  delicate.  In  this 
sweet  receptacle  the  female  deposites  a  single  pair  of  eggs, 
pure  white,  and  of  an  almost  oval  form. 

A  Virginian  gentleman  kept  two  of  these  creatures  in  a 
cage  for  several  months.     He  supplied  them  with  a  mixture 
of  honey  and  water.     On  this  they  appeared  to  feed  ;  but 
as  the  sweet  and  viscous  liquid  brought  many  small  flies 
about  the  cage,  the  humming-birds  were  seen  to  snap  at 
and  swallow  the  insects  with  great  eagerness.     Mr.  C.  W. 
Peale  also  succeeded  in  reanng  two  young  ones  from  the 
nest.     They  used  to  fly  about  the  room,  and  would  fre- 
quently perch  on  Mrs.  Peale's  shoulder.     Wilson  himself 
took  a  nest  in  the  summer  of  1803,  the  inhabitants  of  which 
were  just  about  to  fly  ;  indeed  one  of  them  flew  out  by  the 
window  that  same  evening,  and,  striking  against  a  wall, 
was  killed.     The  other  refused  food,  and  was  scarcely  alive 
next  morning.     A  lady,  however,  undertook  to  nurse  it,  and 
dissolving  a  little  sugar  in  her  mouth,  she  thrust  in  the 
bird's  bill,  which  immediately  sucked   with  great  avidity. 
It  was  kept  for  three  months,  and  daily  supplied  with  loaf- 
sugar  dissolved  in  water.     Fresh  flowers  were  also  scattered 
every  morning  around  its  food  ;  and  in  this  way  it  appeared 
gay,  active,  and  full  of  spirits,  and  hovered  from  flower  to 
flower  as  if  in  its  natural  state.     It  never  failed  to  express, 
both  by  a  peculiar  motion  and  a  chirping  voice,  the  greatest 
pleasure  when  its  supply  of  flowers  was  introduced  into  the 
cage.      It  became  the   admiration   of  all  beholders,   and 
sanguine  hopes  were  entertained   that  it  might   be    pre- 
served throughout  the  winter ;  but  unfortunately  it  one  day 
got  at  large,  and  flying  about  the  room  in  a  more  excited 
manner  than  usual,  it  injured  itself  in  such  a  way  as  to  die 
soon  aiter.^     The  species  to  which  these  observations  apply 


f?1 


'  '-^' 


if'' 


11 


if 


*  In  addition  to  the  writings  of  Wilson  and  Audubon,  consult,  for  a 
knowledge  of  the  history  and  habits  of  humming  birds,  Mr.  Bullock's 
"Six  Months  in  Mexico,"  and  M.  Lesson's  "Histoire  des  Oiseuz 
Mouches." 


m 


292 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


i 


; 


*im 


rnngcs  during  the  summer  season  as  far  to  the  north  as  the 
57th  parallel.  Dr.  Richardson  found  it  on  the  plains  of  the 
Saskatchawan,  and  Mr.  Drummond  discovered  its  nest  near 
the  sources  of  the  Elk  River.  This  was  composed  chiefly 
of  the  down  of  an  anemone,  bound  together  by  a  few  stalks 
of  moss  and  bits  of  lichen,  and  had  an  internal  diameter  of 
one  inch. 

The  other  species  to  which  we  alluded  above  was  first 
observed  by  our  illustrious  navigator  Cook,  on  the  barren 
shores  of  Nootka  Sound.  It  is  the  ruff-necked  humming- 
bird {Trochilus  collaris  of  Latham,  and  the  Trochilus  rufus 
of  Gmelin).  It  is  a  superb  species,  and  ranges  to  the 
southward  at  least  as  far  as  the  table-land  of  Mexico,  near 
Real  del  Monte;  from  which  locality  specimens  are  pre- 
served in  the  unrivalled  collection  of  Mr.  Loddiges.  It 
was  traced  by  Kotzebue  along  the  Pacific  shores  as  far  as 
the  sixty-first  parallel.  •  The  migration  of  birds  has  in 
every  age  afforded  a  subject  of  pleasing  speculation  to  the 
admirers  of  the  never-ending  wonders  of  the  natural  world ; 
but  in  no  instance  does  it  more  freely  excite  our  admiration 
than  when  manifested  by  creatures  so  frail,  and  fantastically 
attired  in  hues 

"  Which  make  the  rose's  blush  of  beauty  pale, 
And  dim  the  rich  geranium's  scarlet  blaze." 

Of  the  long-winged  and  most  aerial  of  the  feathered 
race,  the  swallow  tribe,  many  beautifbl  species  inhabit 
America.  We  shall  here  notice  only  the  white-fronted  or 
cliff-swallow  {Hirundo  lunifrons  of  Say),  discovered  near 
the  Rocky  Mountains  by  Major  Long.  It  was  seen  in  great 
numbers  by  Sir  John  Franklin's  party  in  1820,  while  travel- 
ling from  Cumberland  House  to  Fort  Entdrpriae.  Its  clus- 
tered nests  are  frequent  on  the  faces  of  the  rocky  cliffs  of 
the  Barren  Grounds,  and  a  number  of  them  made  their  first 
appearance  at  Fort  Chipewyan  on  the  25th  of  June,  1825, 
and  immediately  built  their  nests  under  the  eaves  of  the 
dwelling-house,  which  are  not  more  than  six  feet  above  a 
balcony  that  extended  the  whole  length  of  the  building,  and 
was  a  constant  promenade.  "  They  had  thus  to  graze  the 
heads  of  the  passengers  on  entering  their  nests,  and  were 
moreover  exposed  to  the  curiosity  and  depredations  of  the 
children,  to  whom  they  were  novelties  :  yet  they  preferred 


BIRDS. 


293 


the  dwelling-house  to  the  more  lofty  eaves  of  the  store- 
houses, and  in  the  following  season  returned  with  aug- 
mented numbers  to  the  same  spot.  Fort  Chipewyan  has 
existed  for  many  years,  and  trading-posts,  though  far  dis- 
tant from  each  other,  have  been  established  in  the  fur-coun- 
tries for  a  century  and  a  half;  yet  this,  as  far  as  I  could 
learn,  is  the  first  instance  of  this  species  of  swallow  placing 
itself  under  the  protection  of  man  within  the  widely-ex- 
tended lands  north  of  the  Great  Lakes.*  What  cause 
could  have  thus  suddenly  called  into  action  that  confidence 
in  the  human  race  with  which  the  Framer  of  the  Universe 
has  endowed  this  species,  in  common  with  others  of  the 
swallow  tribe  ]"!  This  species  is  very  widely  distributed. 
It  was  transmitted  to  Professor  Jameson  from  India  some 
years  ago  by  the  Marchioness  of  Hastings. 

Passing  over  the  goat-suckers  (genus  Capriinulgus)j 
which  are  frequent  and  numerous  in  the  northern  regions 
of  America,  we  may  here  record  the  name  of  the  belted 
king-fisher  {Alcedo  alcyon^  Linn.)  as  the  sole  representative 
in  the  fur-countries  of  a  tribe  very  widely  diffused  over  all 
the  known  regions  of  the  earth.  It  is  a  bird  of  passage, 
and  winters  as  far  south  as  the  West  Indies,  although  it 
also  occurs  in  Georgia  and  the  Floridas  during  that  season. 

A  more  numerous  and  much  more  important  family  of 
birds  (in  America)  are  the  TetraonidcB  or  grouse.  Nearly 
a  dozen  species  inhabit  the  fur-countries,  and  of  these  the 
largest  and  most  remarkable  is  the  pheasant-tailed  grouse 
or  cock  of  the  plains  (Tetrao  urophasianiisy  Bon.).  The 
flight  of  this  bird,  Mr.  Douglas  informs  us,  is  slow  and  un- 
steady, and  affords  but  little  amusement  to  the  sportsman. 
Its  wings  are  small,  and  but  feebly  feathered  in  proportion 
to  the  size  of  the  bird,  which  measures  from  thirty-two  to 
thirty-four  inches  in  length,  and  weighs  from  six  to  eight 
pounds.  Though  it  may  be  said  to  represent  the  capercailzie 


1 


w. 


*  The  late  governor,  De  Witt  Clinton,  has  given  a  very  interesting 
history  of  the  closely-resembling  species,  H.fulvay  which  about  sixteen 
years  ago  began  to  build  its  nests  on  the  walls  of  houses  in  the  Western 
States,  and  has  every  succeeding  summer  been  advancing  farther  to  the 
eastward.    Vide  Ann.  Lye,  New-York,  vol.  i.  p.  156.  * 

t  Fitma  BoreaU-Amerieana,  vol.  ii.  p.  831. 

Bb2 


tv- 


11  f  il 

Jii 


294 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


or  wood-)Errouse  (T.  uroirallus)  in  the  New  World,  it  differs 
in  tliis  respect,  that  it  never  perches.  Its  flesh  is  dark- 
coluurcd,  and  not  particuhirly  good  in  point  of  flavour.* 

We  shall  close  our  account  of  American  land-birds,  com- 
monly so  called,  by  a  reference  to  the  passenger-pigeon 
{Columba  migratoria).  It  may  be  presumed  to  be  suffi- 
ciently common  in  America,  from  a  fact,  or  rather  a  calcu- 
lation, given  by  Alexander  Wilson.  He  estimated  a  flock 
which  continued  to  pass  above  him  for  the  greater  part  of  a 
day  to  have  been  a  mile  in  breadth  and  240  miles  in  length, 
and  to  have  contained  (three  birds  being  assigned  to  every 
square  yard)  at  least  two  thousand  two  hundred  and  thirty 
millions,  two  hundred  and  seventy-two  thousand  pigeons  If 
Mr.  Audubon  confirms  his  predecessor's  account  by  a  nar- 
rative still  mor^  extraordinary,}  and  adds,  that  as  every 
pigeon  consumes  fully  half  a  pint  of  food  (chiefly  mast), 
the  quantity  necessary  for  supplying  his  flock  must  have 
amounted  to  eight  millions  seven  hundred  and  twelve  thou- 
sand bushels  per  day  ! — an  expensive  doocot. 

Of  the  order  of  waders  (Grallatores)  none  winter  in  the 
fur-countries.  They  generally  arrive  about  the  end  of 
April  and  beginning  of  May,  and  are  driven  southwards  in 
autumn  by  the  advance  of  winter,  and  its  hardening  influ- 
ence upon  the  moist  grounds  and  swampy  shores,  from 
which  these  long-legged  gentry  draw  their  principal  support. 
We  shall  rest  satisfied  by  furnishing  a  list  of  their  names 
in  the  note  below.  ^ 

*  For  the  history  and  description  of  the  other  American  grouse,  con- 
sult Mr.  David  Douglas's  paper  in  the  16th  volume  of  the  Linn.  Trans.; 
Professor  Jameson's  edition  of  the  American  Ornithology,  vol.  ii.  p.  314, 
and  vol.  iv.  p.  189,325;  the  second  volume  of  the  Fauna  Boreali-Ameri- 
cana,  p.  342 ;  and  my  own  "  Illustrations  of  Zoology,"  vol.  i.  plates  20, 
27,  30,  31,  and  corresponding  letter-press. 

t  See  vol.  ii.  p.  299. 

X  See  his  interesting  history  of  the  passenger-pigeon  in  the  first 
volume  of  the  "  Ornithological  Biography,"  p.  319-326. 

^  The  sanderling  {CeUidris  arenaria,  lUiger);  American  ringplover 
{Charadrius  semipcdmatus,  Bonap.);  kildeer-plover  (Ch.  vociferus, 
Linn.);  golden-plover  (CA.  pluvialis,  Linn.?);  gray  lapwing  (Fane//u« 
melanogaster,  Bechst.) ;  turnstone  {Strepsilits  interpres,  111.) ;  whoop- 
ing-crane  {Grus  Americana,  Temm.) ;  hrown  crane  (6.  Canadensis, 
Temm.);  great  heron  (Ardea  Herodias,  Linn.);  American  bittern, 
(Ardea  lentiginosa,  Mont,);  American  avoset  {Recurvirostra  Ameri- 


^ 


U  in  the  first 


r>lRDS. 


295 


Of  the  still  more  extensive  order  of  Nafatorrft^  or  web- 
footed  swimniinjT-birds  {}*al  mi  pedes),  we  shall  present  only 
a  few  brief  notices.  Birds  of  this  order  are  fully  more  re- 
markable for  the  texture  than  the  tints  of  their  plumage, 
although  several  species  of  the  duck  tribe  are  likewise  dis- 
tinguished by  considerable  brilliancy  of  colour.  Destined 
to  inhabit  the  seashore,  and  the  bnnks  of  lakes  and  rivers, 
they  are  much  exposed  to  the  inclemencies  of  the  weather, 
and  their  feathers  are  providentially  rendered  very  close  and 
compact,  and  abundantly  imbued  with  an  oily  secretion, 
through  which  they  become  impermeable  by  moisture. 
This  beautiful  provision,  as  I  have  elsewhere  observed,*  is 
more  indispensable  to  the  economy  of  the  Palmipedes  than 
to  any  other  order,  as  many  of  them  are  strictly  oceanic,  be- 
ing sometimes  found  500  leagues  from  land,  and  conse- 
quently having  no  other  place  of  repose,  either  by  night  or 
by  day,  than  the  surface  of  the  "  injurious  sea."  In  addi- 
tion to  an  abundant  plumage,  the  truly  aquatic  kinds,  such 
as  ducks  and  divers,  are  furnished  with  a  close,  and,  in  some 
instances,  very  valuable  down,  which  preserves  them  from 
the  effects  of  cold  and  moisture,  and  is  afterward  used  in 
the  formation  of  their  nests  on  the  arrival  of  the  genial 
season.  With  the  exception  of  ducks  and  mergansers,  no 
very  marked  distinction  prevails  between  the  plumage  of  the 

rana,  Lino.);  long-billed  curlew  {Numenius  longirostris,  Wils.); 
Hudsonian  curlew  (N.  Hudsonicus,  I,ath.);  Esquimaux  curlew  (JV. 
boreaUs,  Lath);  Douglas'  sandpiper  {Tringa  Dovglasii,  Swains.),  a 
new  species  not  uncommon  in  the  Air  countries  as  high  as  the  sixtieth 
parallel;  slendershanks  sandpiper  (T.  himaiitopus,  Bonap.?);  semi- 
palmated  sandpiper  {T.  semipalfnata,  Wils,);  purple  sandpiper  (T. 
maritima,  Brunn.);  dunlin  (T.  alpina,  Penn.);  Schintz's  sandpiper  (T. 
Schimiiy  Brehm.);  pigmy  sandpiper  (T.  minuta,  Leisler);  diminutive 
sandpiper  {T.jmsilla,  Wils.);  knot  (T.  cinerea,  Linn.);  semipalmated 
tatler  (Totanus  semipalmatvs,  Temm.) ;  tell-tale  (T.  vociferus,  Sabine) ; 
yellow-shanks  tatler  (T.  Jlavipes,\'\%\\\oi)\  red-shank  or  gambet  (T. 
calidris,  Bechst.);  Bartram's  tatler  {T.  Bartramius,  Temm.) ;  white- 
tailed  tatler  (T.  ochropus,  Temm.);  green-rump  tatler  (T.  chlnropygiug, 
Vieill.);  great-marbled  godwit  {Limosa  fedoa,  Vieill.);  Hudsonian  god- 
wit  (L.  Hvdsonica,  Swains.);  New- York  godwit  (Scolopax  Novobo- 
racensisy  Wils.);  Drummond's  snipe  {Sc,  Drummondii,  Swains.); 
Wilson's  snipe  (Sc.  Wilsonii,  Temm.);  yellow-breasted  rail  (Kallus 
Novoboracensis,  Bonap.);  Carolina  rail  {R.  Carolinus,  Bonap.);  Ameri> 
can  coot  (Fulica  Americana,  Gmel.) ;  Wilson's  phalarope  (Pft,  Wilsonii, 
Sab.) ;  hyperborean  phalarope  (PA.  hyperboreus,  Lath.) ;  nat-billed  pha- 
larope {Ph.fulicarius,  Bonap.). 
*  Illustrations  of  Zoologj',  \ol.  i.,  introductory  letter-press  to  plate  3. 


il. 


5> 

I 


ill 


V' 


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296 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


sexes.  The  youn^r  diflfur  conxiderubly  from  the  adults,  and 
seldom  attain  tlic  perfect  plumugo  till  the  lapse  of  one  or 
two  seasons. 

North  America  produces  several  grebes  (genus  Podicepa) 
and  sea-swallows  (Sfcrna).  About  a  dozrn  different  kinds 
of  gull  (Larua)  inhabit  both  the  barren  shores  and  inland 
swamps  of  the  fur-cuuntries.  A  beautiful  species  called 
the  fork-tailed  gull  {Larus  Sabinii)  is  here  represented. 

This  bird  was  discovered  by  Captain  Edward  Sabine  on 
a  group  of  three  low  rocky  islands,  about  twenty  miles 
from   the    mainland,    off   the   west  coast   of   Greenland. 
"  They  flew  with  impetuosity  towards  persons  approaching 
their  nests  and  young ;  and  when  one  bird  of  a  pair  was 
killed,  its  mate,  though  separately  fired  at,  continued  on 
wing  close  to  the  spot  where  it  lay."*     The  fork-tailed  or 
Sabine  gull  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  of  the  genus.     Its 
colours,  though  sufficiently  contrasted  for  variety  and  liveli- 
ness of  effect,  are  finely  harmonized.     The  colour  of  the 
head  assumes  a  considerable  variety  of  appearances,  accord- 
ing to  the  direction  and  degree  of  light   in  which  it  is 
examined ; — a   tinge   of  black,    brown,    blue,    or   purple, 
seeming  alternately  suffused   over   the   deep   lead   colour 
which  forms  the  prevailing  tone  by  which  the  parts  are 
usually  characterized.     There  appears  to  be  no  difference 
in  the  plumage  of  the  sexes,  but  the  female  is  rather  less 
in  size.     A  solitary  example  of  this  species  was  met  in 
Prince  Regent's   Inlet  during   Sir  Edward  Parry's  first 
voyage,  and  in  the  course  of  the  second  voyage  many 
were  obtained  on  Melville  Peninsula.     They  arrive  in  high 
northern  latitudes  in  June,  and  take  their  departure  south- 
wards as  early  as  the  month  of  August. 

As  an  example  of  the  northern  ducks,  we  shall  confine 
ourselves  to  the  Kocky  Mountain  golden-eye  ( Clangula  Bar- 
rovif  Rich,  and  Swains.),  a  species  distinguished  from  our 
common  golden-eye  by  the  head  and  upper  portion  of  the 
neck  being  of  a  pansy-purple  colour,  with  a  large  crescent- 
shaped  spot  of  white  before  each  eye.  The  white  speculum 
of  the  wing  is  separated  from  a  band  of  the  same  colour  on 
the  coverts  by  a  black  stripe.  It  is  dedicated  to  Mr.  Barrow 
of  the  Admiralty,  our  chief  promoter  of  those  important 


*  Linn.  Trans,  vol.  xii.  p.  50S. 


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BIRDS. 


299 


geographical  discoveries,  from  the  successful  conduct  of 
which  such  essential  benefits  have  resulted  to  zoological 
science. 

It  appears  that  the  swan  lately  discovered,  or  at  least 
identified  as  new  to  the  records  of  British  ornithology,  and 
described  by  Mr.  Yarrell*  under  the  name  of  Bewick's  swan 
(Cygnus  Bewickii),  is  an  inhabitant  of  the  seacoast  within 
the  Arctic  circle  of  America.  It  is  much  later  in  its  north- 
ern migratory  movements  than  its  congener  the  trumpeter- 
swan  (C.  buccinator).  According  to  Lewis  and  Clarke.,  it 
winters  near  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  Its  nest  is  de- 
scribed by  Captain  Lyon  (than  whom  few  describe  in  a  more 
agreeable  manner)  as  built  in  a  peat-moss,  and  being 
nearly  six  feet  long, '  four  and  three-quarters  wide,  two 
feet  high  exteriorly,  and  with  a  cavity  in  the  inside  of  a 
foot  and  a  half  in  diameter.  The  eggs  were  brownish- 
white,  clouded  with  a  darker  tint.  A  more  common  species 
of  swan  in  the  interior  of  the  fur-countries  is  the  trumpeter 
above  named.  The  great  bulk  of  th3  skins  imported  by 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  pertain  to  this  species. 

The  white  pelican  {Pel.  onocrotalus)  is  frequent  in  the 
fur-countries  as  high  as  the  sixty-first  parallel.  It  haunts 
eddies  beneath  cascades,  and  destroys  a  great  quantity  of 
carp  and  other  6sh. 

The  great  northern  diver  (Colymbus  glacialis)  is  met 
with  in  considerable  numbers  in  all  the  lakes  of  the  interior, 
though  seldom  observed  either  in  Hudson's  Bay  or  along 
the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Sea.  It  flies  heavily,  but  swims 
with  .great  swiftness.  The  black-throated  species  ( C.  Arc- 
ticus)f  on  the  other  hand,  though  common  on  the  coasts  of 
Hudson's  Bay,  more  rarely  makes  its  way  into  the  hiterior. 
Most  of  the  guillemot  tribe  ( Uria  troilet  Brunnichiij  grylle^ 
and  alle)  frequent  the  Arctic  seas  of  America. 

We  shall  here  close  our  account  of  the  feathered  races 
of  these  northern  regions. 

*  Linn.  Trans,  vol.  xvi.  p.  446. 


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300 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Some  Account  of  the  Fishes  and  other  Zoological  Productions 
of  the  Northern  Regions  of  America. 

Sturgeon— Salmon— Trout— Char— Capelan— White  Fish— Blue  Fish- 
Herring— Pike— Burbot— Perch— Bull-head— Northern  Insects— Their 
Natural  Preservation  from  Cold— More  Northern' Extension  orTropical 
Forms  in  America  than  in  Europe— Bees— Extension  Westwards  of 
the  Honey-bee— Diptera-Melville  Island  Spider— Butterflies. 

* 

The  fishes  of  the  northern  regions  are  of  great  import- 
ance as  articles  of  food  in  countries  where  a  nutritious 
diet  is  by  no  means  easy  to  obtain  ;  and  where,  as  we  have 
seen  in  the  course  of  our  historical  disquisition,  tripe  de 
roche,  burnt  bones,  and  fur-jackets  are  too  frequently  the 
sorry  substitutes  for  better  fare.  We  shall  mention  a  few 
of  the  characteristic  kinds. 

A  species  of  sturgeon  called  sterlet  {Accipenser  Rulhe- 
nus)  abounds  in  the  Saskatchawan.  The  fishery  at  Cumber- 
land House  is  most  productive  during  the  spring  and  summer. 
This  is  a  much  smaller  species  than  the  A.  huso.  An  in- 
dividual weighing  60  pounds  is  considered  large. 

The  Coppermine  River  salmon  {Salmo  Hemii)  is  shaped 
like  a  common  salmon,  with  a  somewhat  larger  head.  Its 
size  is  inferior  to  that  of  the  'British  salmon.  It  is  cap- 
tured ia  great  quantities  in  the  leap  at  Bloody  Fall,  on  the 
Coppermine,  in  the  months  of  July  and  August.  Many 
varieties  of  trout  also  occur  in  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  the 
northern  parts  of  America ;  but  as  the  kinds  which  fre- 
quent our  own  otherwise  well  known  streams  are  still 
vaguely  indicated  by  naturalists,  the  reader  need  not  wonder 
that  we  have  little  definite  information  to  communicate 
regarding  those  of  such  far  distant  lands.  The  Indians  do 
not  appear  to  designate  their  trouts  by  specific  appellations, 
but  use  a  general  term ;  the  Crees  call  them  nammcecoosy 
the  Chipewyans  thlooeesinneh^  and  the  Esquimaux  (Brkallook. 
The  vividness  of  their  spots  and  markings  seems  to  vary 
with  the  season  ;  and  the  colour  and  consequent  condition 


FISHES. 


301 


of  the  flesh  are  likewise  liable  to  change.  They  attain  at 
times  to  an  enormous  size  ;  Dr.  Richardson  frequently  ob- 
served trouts  weighing  40  pounds.  In  Manito  or  God's 
Lake,  they  are  reported  to  attain  the  size  of  90  pounds.  A 
species  nearly  allied  to  the  char  {S.  alpinus),  but  with  the 
tail  more  forked,  and  a  blunter  snout,  was  taken  in  a  lake 
in  Melville  Island. 

The  capelan  or  lodde  ( <S.  Grccnlandicus)  was  observed  in 
large  shoals  along  the  shallow  shores  of  Bathurst's  Inlet. 
The  white  fish  (Corego7ius  albus)  is  named  ihlooaek  by  the 
Copper  Indians,  and  titlameg  by  the  traders.  It  varies  in 
weight  from  three  to  .eight  pounds,  and  sometimes  attains 
even  a  much  greater  size.  It  abounds  in  every  lake  and  river 
of  the  American  arctic  regions,  and  forms  a  most  delicious 
food,  being  eaten  without  satiety  as  almost  the  sole  article 
of  diet  at  some  of  the  trading-posts  for  a  series  of  years. 
Back's  grayling  (C.  signifcr)  is  the  poisson  bleu  of  the  fur* 
dealers.  This  beautiful  fish  prefers  the  strong  rapids,  and 
rises  eagerly  at  the  artificial  fly.  It  was  found  during  the 
first  expedition  only  in  the  clear  rivers  to  the  northward  of 
Great  Slave  Lake,  and  measures  about  16  inches  exclu- 
sive of  the  caudal  fin.  The  common  herring  {Clupea  Ha* 
rengus)  was  caught  in  Bathurst  Inlet  early  in  the  month  of 
August ;  and  pike  (Esox  lacius  ?)  are  common  in  all  the 
lakes.  The  burbot  {Gadus  lota)  is  likewise  a  frequent  fish 
in  every  lake  and  river.  It  preys  indiscriminately  on  what- 
ever other  species  it  is  able  to  swallow,  and  in  the  spring  its 
stomach  is  generally  crammed  with  cray-fish  to  such  a  degree 
as  to  distort  the  shape  of  its  own  body.*  It  is  little  prized  as 
food.  There  is  a  kind  of  perch,  suflSciently  common  about 
Cumberland  House,  which  resembles  our  common  perch  in 
shape,  but  at  the  same  time  dififers  in  several  respects  from 
the  European  specie^.  Its  length  to  the  caudal  fin  is  about 
19  inches.  A  peculiar  cottus  (C.polarisy  Sabine),  similar 
in  its  habits  to  C.  gobia^  was  found  to  occur  abundantly  on 
the  shores  of  North  Georgia  in  pools  of  water  left  by  the 
ebbing  of  the  tide.  The  largest  were  not  more  than  two 
inches  long.t  The  six-horned  bull-head  (C.  hexacornis\ 
is  also  frequent  in  the  Arctic  seas.t 

*  Appendix  to  Franklin's  First  Journey,  p.  724. 
t  Supplement  to  the  Appendix  to  Parry's  First  Voyage,  p.  213. 
X  For  some  notices  of  shells  and  other  invertebrate  animals  or  th« 

Co 


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302 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


11 


We  have  little  to  say  of  the  insects  of  the  northern  re- 
gions. Cold  is  in  general  adverse  to  the  production  and 
increase  of  insect  life,  and  even  temperate  climates  are 
much  less  productive  than  tropical  and  equatorial  regions, 
in  relation  to  those  tiny  tribes.  It  is  probable,  however, 
that  the  distribution  of  many  northern  species  is  still  un- 
known. It  was  formerly  supposed  that  in  Iceland  there 
were  none,  and  that  even  in  Norway  there  were  very  few, 
and  their  absence  from  those  countries  was  attributed  to  ex- 
cess of  cold.  Horrebow  contradicted  this  opinion  in  regard 
to  Iceland,  although  Dr.  Hooker,  in  his  interesting  "  Recol- 
lections" of  a  tour  in  that  island,  states  that  he  met  with 
few,*  yet  Olafsen  and  Provalsen,  during  their  residence 
there,  collected  200  different  species  in  one  small  valley.t 

Otho  Fabricius  resided  six  years  in  Greenland,  and  col- 
lected only  63  species  of  the  insect  class  properly  so  called.^ 
In  the  still  higher  latitude  of  Winter  Harbour,  where  Sir 
Edward  Parry  sojourned,  only  six  species  of  insects  were 
collected  from  the  beginning  of  the  month  of  September 
till  the  August  following.  In  Greenland,  according  to  Mr. 
Kirby,  every  order  of  insect  has  its  representatives,  except 
Orthoptera  and  Hemiptera ;  but  in  Melville  Island,  besides 
these  deficiencies,  neither  coleopterous  nor  neuropterous 
species  were  observed ;  and  even  the  mosquito,  that  shrill 
tyrant  of  the  Lapland  plains,  appears  to  have  ceased  {torn 
troubling  along  those  hyperborean  shores.  It  must,  how- 
ever, be  borne  in  mind,  that  insects  can  escape  the  extremes 
of  cold, not  only,  as  Mr.  Macleay  observes,  by  passing  cer- 
tain periods  in  the  pupa  or  torpid  state,  but  also  by  being 
while  in  that  state  usually  buried  in  the  earth,  where  they 
are  but  slightly  sensible  even  of  the  most  extreme  rigour 
of  winter.  "  What  they  chiefly  require  is  the  presence  of 
heat  during  some  period  of  their  existence  ;  and  the  greater, 
within  certain  limits,  is  the  heat,  the  more  active  will  be 
their  vital  principle.  On  the  American  continent  the  ex- 
tremes of  heat  and  cold  in  the  course  of  the  year  are,  as  is 
well  known,  incomparably  greater  than  in  places  of  the 


;  k 


Arctic  Regions,  consult  the  SappTement  above  named.  See  also  a  List 
of  Zoopliytes  by  Dr.  Fleming,  in  the  Appendix  to  Captain  Parry'a 
Second  Voyage  to  the  Arctic  Regions. 

*  First  edition,  p.  272.  f  Voyage  en  Islande.,  t.  L 

%  Fauna  Grcenmndica. 


loTthem  re- 
duction and 
jlimates  are 
rial  regions, 
[e,  however, 
I  is  still  un- 
celantl  there 
;re  very  few, 
ibuted  to  ex- 
ion  in  regard 
ting  "  Recol- 
he  met  with 
eir  residence 
lall  valley,  t 
and,  and  col- 
rly  so  called.t 
ir,  where  Sir 
insects  were 
of  September 
ording  to  Mr. 
atives,  except 
iland,  besides 
neuropterous 
ito,  that  shrill 
e  ceased  from 
:t  must,  how- 
I  the  extremes 
y  passing  cer- 
also  by  being 
h,  where  they 
xtreme  rigour 
le  presence  of 
ad  the  greater, 
active  will  be 
itinent  the  ex- 
year  are,  as  is 
places  of  the 

,    See  also  a  List 
Captain  Parry'a 

en  Islaude^  t.  L 


INSECTS. 


303 


same  latitude  in  Europe.  We  may,  therefore,  readily 
conceive  how  families  of  insects  will  inhabit  a  wider  range 
of  latitude  in  the  former  country  than  in  the  latter.  We 
see  also  how  insects  may  swarm  in  the  very  coldest  climatos, 
such  as  Lapland  and  Spitzbergen,  where  the  short  summer 
can  boast  of  extraordinary  rises  in  the  thermometer ;  be- 
cause the  energy  of  the  vital  principle  in  such  animals  is, 
within  certain  limits,  proportionate  to  the  degree  of  warmth 
to  which  they  may  be  subjected,  and  escapes  in  a  manner 
the  severe  action  of  cold."*  It  is  on  the  above  principles 
also  that  Mr.  Macleay  accounts  for  what  certainly  at  first 
seems  an  extraordinary  circumstance  in  the  geography  of 
insects ;  namely,  that  their  tropical  structure  extends  much 
farther  north  in  America  than  in  Europe, — that  is,  in  a 
manner  directly  the  reverse  of  that  which  has  been  noted 
by  botanists  to  occur  in  the  vegetable  kingdom.  When  we 
examine  Copris  carnifeXy  Cctonia  nitiduy  Rutela  Q-punctata^ 
and  other  insects  from  the  neighbourhood  of  New-York, 
and  compare  them  with  species  of  the  same  families  from 
Brazil,  we  shall  find  their  difference  of  structure  infinitely 
less  than  that  which  would  result  from  a  comparison  of  the 
entomological  productions  of  the  environs  of  Madrid  with 
those  of  the  banks  of  the  Congo. 

Mr.  Macleay  admits,  that  although  in  his  opinion  the  in- 
sect tribes  suffer  less  in  cold  climates  than  plants,  it  does 
not  therefore  follow  that  the  prevalence  of  cold  has  no  effect 
in  relation  to  the  destruction  or  prevention  of  insect  life. 
In  truth,  the  diminution  of  the  number  of  species  becomes 
very  conspicuous  as  we  advance  towards  the  poles.  But 
this  the  learned  author  of  the  Hora  Entomologica  supposes 
to  be  owing  rather  to  the  short  continuance  of  the  summer 
warmth,  than  to  the  lowness  of  its  existing  degree.  In  ac- 
cordance with  this  view  we  certainly  find  that  many  insects, 
such  as  gnats,  mosquitoes,  &c.  which  pass  their  larva  state 
in  water, — thus  avoiding  the  extremest  cold,  and  whose  ex- 
istence in  the  perfect  state  being  naturally  ephemeral,  must, 
therefore,  suffer  little  from  the  shortness  of  summer, — are 
nowhere  more  troublesome  than  among  the  moors  and 
marshes  of  the  north.  On  the  other  hand,  the  number  of 
coleopterous  species,  which,  being  naturally  longer  lived, 

*  Horse  Entomologies,  part  i.  p.  45. 


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NATURAL   HISTORY. 


require  a  greater  continuance  of  warmth,  is  sensibly  dimin- 
ished amid  those  dreary  wastes.^ 

Several  specimens  of  a  species  of  caterpillar  were  found 
in  Melville  Island.  They  occurred  in  the  vicinity  of  Salix 
Arctica  and  Saxifraga  oppositi/oliaj  and  a  new  moth  {Bombyx 
SahinU  K.)  was  found  in  a  swampy  part  of  the  island.  The 
honey-bee  {Apis  mellifica)  is  supposed  to  be  not  an  indige- 
nous but  an  imported  species  in  America.  Our  land  expe- 
ditions did  not  observe  its  occurrence  to  the  north  of  Canada. 
The  Americans  have  now  settled  the  Missouri,  as  far  as 
the  95th  meridian,  and  it  is  probable  that  the  New-England 
men,  in  their  journeys  westward,  carried  hives  along  with 
them.  According  to  Mr.  Warden,  the  honey-bee  was  not 
found  to  the  westward  of  the  Mississippi  prior  to  the  year 
1797;  but  it  is  now  well  known,  and  has  been  so  for  a 
considerable  time,  as  high  up  the  Missouri  as  the  Maha 
nation ;  having  proceeded  westward  600  miles  in  fourteen 
years.t  Such  a  distance  seems  great  for  these  tiny  crea- 
tures to  advance  by  the  ordinary  process  of  swarming,  even 
supposing  that  the  flight  of  the  new  colonies  was  invariably 
in  a  western  direction.  It  is  at  the  rate  of  43  miles  a-year ; 
but  they  have,  perhaps,  been  smitten  by  the  Yankee  pas- 
sion of  settling  beyond  the  clearings.^  A  wild  bee  {Apis 
alpiruii  Fah.  Bombus  Arcticusy  K.)  of  a  black  colour,  with  the 
base  and  apex  of  the  thorax  and  the  anterior  half  of  the  ab- 
domen pale  yellow,  is  very  common  within  the  Arctic  Cir- 
cle.^ "  Scarcely  any  genus  of  the  insect  creation  has  so 
large  a  range  as  this  of  Bombus.  It  is  found  in  the  Old 
World  and  in  the  New, — and  from  the  limits  of  phsenoga- 
mous  vegetation  to  the  equator ;  but  its  metropolis  appears 
to  be  within  the  temperate  zone.  The  range  of  the  species 
in  question  seems  limited  by  the  Arctic  Circle,  and  to  go 
from  Greenland  only  westward,  for  it  does  not  appear  to 

*  Horae  EntomologicsB,  part  i.  p.  46. 

t  Statistical,  Political,  and  Historical  Account  of  the  United  Statet.^ 
of  America,  vol.  iii.  p.  139. 

t  Dr.  Richardson  lately  informed  me,  that  in  the  course  of  his  north* 
em  journey,  he  saw  some  bees  in  very  high  latitudes  resembling  our 
common  bumblebee,  but  that  he  did  not  at  the  time  ascertain  the  exact 
species,  and  the  circumstances  under  which  ho  was  then  placed  nnfor- 
tunately  prevented  his  preserving  specimens  of  the  softer  inserts. 

^  The  insect  above  alluded  to  is  a  distinct  species  fVom  uis  Apia 
alpina  of  Linn.,  which  is  black,  with  the  upper  side  of  the  abdomen, 
all  but  the  base,  covered  with  ferruginous  hair. 


INSECTS. 


305 


United  State>.i 


have  been  seen  in  Lapland  or  Iceland,*  or  other  eastern 
parts  of  that  circle."t 

Of  the  dipterous  tribes  we  shall  here  mention  only  the 
Chironomus  polaris  of  Kirby.  The  body  is  of  a  deep  black, 
somewhat  hairy.  The  antennae  are  plumose.  The  wings 
are  rather  shorter  than  the  body,  of  a  milky  hue,  with  pris- 
matic reflections,  and  the  marginal  nervures  black.  The 
abdomen  is  slender  and  hairy.  This  species  seems  allied 
to  the  Tipulu  stercoraria  of  De  Geer,  but  exceeds  it  by 
twice  the  size.  Along  with  Ctcnophora  Parrii  it  may  be 
said  to  replace  the  Culices  or  gnats  which  prove  so  trouble- 
some to  navigators  and  travellers  up  to  a  certain  high  lati- 
tude. The  species  of  the  genus  Chironomus^  more  espe- 
cially, are  often  seen  in  our  own  country  dancing  in  the 
sunbeams  even  during  the  depth  of  winter,  when  Culex  is 
benumbed ;  and  it  was  therefore  to  be  expected,  a  priori^ 
that  the  former  would  occupy  a  higher  range,  and  approach 
nearer  the  pole  than  the  latter.  On  the  last  day  of  Cap- 
tain Parry's  attempt  to  reach  the  North  Pole  over  the  ice,  a 
species  of  Aphis  was  found  in  lat.  82°  26'  44",  about  100 
miles  from  the  nearest  known  land.t  This  may  be  con- 
sidered as  the  extreme  northern  boundary  of  insect  life. 

A  small  spider  was  seen  in  great  abundance  in  Melville 
Island,  running  on  the  ground,  as  well  as  on  various  plants, 
and  leaping  when  alarmed.  Mr.  Kirby  had  an  opportunity 
of  examining  only  a  single  specimen,  which  was  so  defec- 
tive from  injury  that  he  could  not  name  with  certainty  the 
genus  to  which  it  belonged ;  but  from  its  leaping  propen- 
sities it  was  inferred  to  belong  to  Salticus  of  Latreille. 
To  whatever  genus  it  pertains,  the  specific  name  of  Mel- 
villensis  is  now  bestowed  upon  it. 

Mr.  Scoresby  brought  a  few  insects  from  the  east  coast 
of  West  Greenland.  Among  these  were  two  butterflies, 
Papilio  palanoj  Linn.  {Faun.  suec.  1041),  and  Papilio  diUf 
Linn.  (Fab.  Mant.  ins.  ii.  p.  61,  n.  681).  Both  of  these 
were  enumerated  for  the  first  time  as  productions  of  Green- 
land in  the  account  of  his  voyage ;  for  the  only  butterfly 

*  Hooker's  Recollections  of  Iceland,  1st  edition,  p.  34. 
t  Supplement  to  the  Appendix  to  Captain  Parry's  First  Voyage, 
p.  217. 
t  Narrative  of  an  Attempt  to  reach  the  North  Pole  in  Boats, 

Cc2 


i 


n  g 

4; 


^' 


n 


306 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


■1 


;h 


rr 


met  with  on  either  coast  by  Fabricius  was  the  Papilio  Tullia 
of  Muller.* 

The  entomology  of  the  northern  portions  of  the  mainland 
of  America  is  as  yet  known  only  through  a  few  vague  and 
superficial  notices,  from  which  we  can  deduce  no  positive  re- 
sults, and  with  which  we  therefore  deem  it  unnecessary  to 
trouble  the  reader.  We  expect  ere  long  a  valuable  contri- 
bution on  the  subject  from  the  skilful  pen  of  Mr.  Kirby.f 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Characteristic  Features  in  the  Botany  of  the  Northern  Regions 

of  America. 

Mr.  Brown's  Observations  on  the  relative  Proportions  of  the  two  great 
Divisions  orPhseinogamous  Plants— Beautiftil  small  Willow  from  East 
Greenland— Notices  of  the  more  remarkable  Species  collected  by  Dr. 
Richardson— Galium  Tinetorium— Cornus  Alba— Phlox  Hoodii — Vi- 
burnum Edule — Azalea  Nudicaulis— Lilium  Philadelphiciim— Epilo- 
bium  AngusUrolium — Ledum  latifolium— L.  Palustre— Prunus  Virgi- 
niana— Pyrus  Ovalis— Crepis  Nana— Cineraria  Congesta—Pinus  Nigra 
— P.  Alba— P.  Banksiana — P.  Microcarpa — L.  Lambertiana — Emp«- 
trum  Nigrum— Myrica  Gale— Populus  Trepida — Populus  Balsamifera 
— Juniperus  Prostrata— Splachnum  Mnioides— Dicranum  Elongatum 
— Gyrophora  proboscidea — Hyperborea  Pennsylvanica,  Mecklenbergii, 
vellea— Cetraria  Richardsonii— Fucus  Ceranoides— Difficulties  in  tha 
Determination  of  Arctic  Species— Plants  recently  introduced  to  the 
British  Gardens— Lathyrus  Decaphyllus — Eutoca  Franklinii — Lupinus 
Littoralia— Clarkia  Puchella— Gerard  ia  Capitata~New  Dodecatheon 
— ^Andromeda  Tetragona-^Menziesia  Empetrifolia— Azalea  Lapponica 
— Dryas  Drummondia. 

Although,  as  a  subject  of  scientific  and  philosophical  in- 
vestigation, botany  yields  in  interest  to  none  of  the  other 
branches  of  natural  history,  and  although  a  great  poet  and 
profound  observer  of  nature  has  asserted  that 

'<  To  him  the  meanest  flower  that  blows  can  give 
Thoughts  that  do  often  lie  too  deep  for  tears," 

♦  Scoresby's  Journal  of  a  Voyage  to  the  Northern  Whale-Fishery,  p.  424. 

T  The  third  volume  of  Dr.  Richardson's  Fauna  Boreali-Americana^ 
now  in  preparation,  will  contain  a  few  notices  of  Serpents,  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  Fisbes,  aa  account  of  the  Insects  (by  Mr.  Kirby),  and  a  list 
ofTestacea. 


»'* 


*• 


PLANTS. 


307 


pilio  Tullia 

le  mainland 
J  vague  and 
positive  re- 
lecessary  to 
lable  contri- 
•.  Kirby.t 


kern  Regions 


the  two  great 
illow  from  East 
:ollected  by  Dr. 
ox  Hoodii— VI- 
phicum— Epilo- 
— Prunus  Virgi- 
ta—Pinu8  Nigra 
ertiana — Empe- 
|U8  Balsamifera 
m  Elongatum 
VIecklenbergii, 
ifflcultiea  in  the 
troduced  to  the 
klinii— Lupinus 
w  Dodecatheon 
zalea  Lapponica 

osophical  in- 
of  the  other 
eat  poet  and 


Fishery,  p.  424. 

ali-Americana, 

lents,  a  descrip- 

rby),  and  a  Urt 


yet,  owing  to  the  extension  which  we  have  assigned  to  v 
zoological  department,  our  space  we  fear  will  scarcely  suffice 
for  more  than  a  cursory  sketch,  even  with  the  total  exclusion 
of  all  lachrymose  afTection.  Several  of  our  best  botanists 
have,  of  late  years,  devoted  a  portion  of  their  attention  to  the 
floraof  the  Northern  Regions  of  America;  but  the- subject 
has  as  yet  made  little  progress  beyond  the  indispensable  pre- 
liminary of  coi'rect,  though  probably  not  yet  completed, 
catalogues  of  certain  districts.  From  these  it  is  scarcely 
possible  at  present  to  select  any  such  general  features  as 
would  interest  the  majority  of  our  readers  ;  but  we  shall  in 
the  mean  while  indicate  the  sources  from  which  those  who 
incline  to  investigate  this  branch  of  science  may  derive  the 
most  ample  and  accurate  information. 

A  list  of  plants,  collected  in  Melville  Island  by  the  officers 
of  the  first  Polar  voyage,  has  been  published  by  Mr.  Brown, 
with  characters  and  descriptions  of  the  new  species.*  This 
account  was  made  up  from  the  herbaria  of  Captain  Sabine, 
Mr.  Edwards,  Mr.  James  Ross,  Captain  Parry,  Mr.  Fisher, 
and  Mr.  Beverley,  whose  names  are  here  given  in  the  order 
of  the  extent  of  their  collections.  Great  difficulty  was  ex- 
perienced by  Mr.  Brown  in  determining  many  of  the  species, 
either  from  their  extremely  variable  character  or  the  incom- 
plete condition  of  the  specimens,  and  occasionally  also  from 
the  want  of  authentic  individuals  of  an  identical  or  analogous 
nature  from  other  countries,  with  which  the  recent  acqui- 
sitions might  be  compared.  The  plan  originally  followed 
by  the  great  Scotch  botanist  in  the  preparation  of  his  list 
was  more  extensive  than  that  finally  executed.  It  included 
remarks  on  the  state  and  relative  proportions  of  the  primary 
divisions  and  natural  orders  to  which  these  northern  plants 
pertained — a  comparison  of  that  hyperborean  vegetation 
with  the  productions  of  nearly  similar  climates — and  obser- 
vations on  the  range  of  such  species  as  were  ascertained  to 
be  common  to  Melville  Island  and  other  parts  of  the  world. 
Towards  the  completion  of  that  plan  he  had  rnade  consider- 
able progress  ;  but  he  found  eventually  that  to  have  satis- 
factorily developed  some  of  the  subjects  just  named,  would 
not  only  have  required  more  time  than  he  had  then  in  his 

*  Supplement  to  the  Appendix  to  Captain  Parry's  First  Voyage, 
London, 1824. 


I' 


308 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


i    ¥ 


power  to  bestow,  but  also  a  more  ample  stock  of  materials 
than  was  at  that  period  within  his  reach.  If  then  so  skilful 
an  observer  was  unable  to  exhibit  any  general  views  on  the 
subject,  we  hold  ourselves  to  stand  excused  for  their  absence 
from  this  department  of  our  present  publication.  In  the  list 
referred*  to  the  reader  will  find  descriptions  of  several  new  or 
imperfectly-known  genera  and  species,  with  admirable  illus- 
trative engravings  from  the  unrivalled  pencil  of  Mr.  Bauer. 
In  Mr.  Brown's  earliest  observations  on  the  interesting 
subject  of  the  relative  proportions  oi'  the  two  primary  divi- 
sions of  phffinogamous  plants,  he  had  arrived  at  the  conclu- 
sion, that  from  4.5°  as  far  as  60°,  or  perhaps  65°  of  north 
latitude,  the  proportion  of  dicotyledonous  to  monocotyledo- 
nous  plants  gradually  diminished.*  From  a  subsequent 
consideration,  however,  of  the  list  of  Greenland  plants  given 
by  Professor  Geisecke,t  as  well  as  from  what  he  had  bton 
able  elsewhere  to  collect,  regarding  the  vegetation  of  alpine 
regions,  he  had  supposed  it  not  improbable  that  in  still 
higher  latitudes,  and  at  corresponding  heights  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  the  relative  numbers  of  these  two  divisions 
were  again  inverted  ;t — in  the  list  of  Greenland  plants  just 
referred  to,  dicotyledones  being  to  monocotyledones  as  four 
to  one,  or  in  nearly  the  equinoctial  ratio ;  and  in  the  vege- 
tation of  Spitzbergen,  as  far  as  it  could  be  jvdged  of  from 
the  materials  hitherto  collected,  the  proportion  of  dicotyle- 
dones appearing  to  be  still  further  increased.  This  inver- 
sion in  the  cases  now  mentioned  was  found  to  depend  at 
least  as  much  on  the  reduction  of  the  proportion  of  grarai- 
nesB,  as  on  the  increase  of  certain  dicotyledonous  families, 
especially  saxifrageae  and  cruciferae.  "  The  flora  of  Mel- 
ville Island,  however,  which,  as  far  as  relates  to  the  two  pri- 
mary divisions  of  phtenogaraous  plants,  is  probably  as  much 
to  be  depended  on  as  any  local  catalogue  hitherto  published, 
leads  to  very  different  conclusions — -dicotyledones  being  in 
the  present  list  to  monocotyledones  as  five  to  two,  or  in  as 
low  a  ratio  as  has  been  anywhere  yet  observed  ;  while 
the  proportion  of  grasses,  instead  of  being  reduced,  is  nearly 
double  what  has  been  found  in  any  other  part  of  the  world 

♦  Flinders'  Voyage,  ii.  p.  538. 

t  Article  Greenland,  in  Brewster's  Encyclopedia, 

j  Tuckey's  Congo,  p.  423. 


i- 


PLANTS. 


309 


(see  Humboldt  in  Diet,  des  Sciences  Nat.  torn.  IS,  tabic  at 
p.  416), — this  family  furniing  onc-iiflh  of  the  whole  phteno- 
gamous  vegetation."* 

Prior  to  the  publication  of  the  list,  from  the  prefatory 
remarks  to  which  the  preceding  is  an  extract,  a  short  cata- 
logue of  plants  collected  on  the  east  coast  of  Greenland 
was  published  by  Mr.  Scorcsby,  with  some  remarks  by  Dr. 
Hooker.f  The  female  catkins  of  a  willow,  allied  to  Salix 
arcnaria  of  Smith,  are  described  as  extremely  beautiful, 
owing  to  the  fme  contrast  between  their  almost  black  scales 
and  the  pure  silky  whiteness  of  their  gcrmens.  This  was 
the  only  arborous  plant  met  with  by  Mr.  Scoresby.  Its 
mode  of  growth  was  singular ;  for  although  it  expanded  to 
the  extent  of  several  feet,  it  so  accommodated  itself  to  the 
nature  of  that  chilly  climate,  or  was  so  acted  upon  by  its 
ungenial  influence,  that  it  only  spread  laterally,  and  was 
never  observed  to  rise  higher  than  two  or  three  inches  from 
the  ground.^ 

In  the  same  year  with  the  preceding,  the  narrative  of 
Sir  John  Franklin's  first  journey,  already  so  often  referred 
to,  made  its  appearance.  The  appendix  to  that  volume 
(No.  vii.  p.  729)  contains  a  list  of  North  American  plants 
by  Dr.  Richardson,  which,  however,  is  not  given  as  con- 
taining any  thing  like  a  full  catalogue  of  the  flora  of  the 
district  through  which  the  expedition  travelled.  During 
their  summer  journeys  only  a  small  portion  of  time  could 
be  allotted  to  botanical  researches,  and  the  constant  and 
more  important  duties  of  the  officers  prevented  their  aiding 
the  doctor  at  all  times  in  the  collection  of  specimens  as 
sedulously  as  they  inclined  to  do.  Under  unavoidable  cir- 
cumstances of  a  very  harassing  nature,  a  large  proportion 
of  plants  may  well  be  supposed  to  have  escaped  their  notice ; 
and  the  disastrous  incidents  attending  their  homeward 
journey  across  the  Barren  Grounds,  from  the  shores  of 
the  Arctic  Sea,  forced  them  to  leave  behind  the  entire  col- 

*  Supplement  of  the  Appendix  to  Captain  Parry's  First  Voyage, 
p.  262. 

t  Journal  of  a  Voyage  to  the  Northern  Whale-fishery,  Appendix,  No 
ii.  p.  410. 

I  In  connexion  with  the  last-named  work  the  reader  may  also  consult 
a  Catalogue  of  Plants  collected  by  William  Jameson,  Esq.,  surgeon,  on 
the  west  coast  of  Greenland,  drawn  up  by  Dr.  Greville,  and  published 
in  the  Memoirs  of  the  Wernerian  Society,  vol.  ill.  p.  426. 


■I: 
f 

i: 


;  ■ 


n 


s'i 


\\ 


*  ^ 


)•,'  f 


ill! 


^i 


ii 


(  n 


,1 


310 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


R 


ll 


{■» 


l-'\ 


IcctionB  formed  during  tho  summer  of  1821,  with  tho  excep- 
tion of  a  few  specimens  collected  on  tho  bankH  of  tho  Cop- 
permine Hivcr,  nnd  which  }md  previously  been  intrusted 
to  Mr.  Wentzel's  care.  Professor  Schwrogrichen,  when 
in  London,  named  tho  musci,  and  Dr.  Hooker  undertook 
the  examination  of  the  lichenes  and  fungi.  Nothing  more 
need  be  said  to  stamp  a  high  value  on  those  portions  of 
the  catalogue. 

This  list  contains  (besides  a  few  specimens  described  in 
the  addenda  by  Mr.  Brown)  above  660  species.  These  are 
referable  to  various  classes  in  the  following  numerical  pro- 
portions : — 


Amount  of  ipeclet. 

Monandrta 3 

Diandria 5 

Triandria 31 

Tetraiulria 9 

rutitandriu 51 

Iloxandria 23 

HnptHiulria 1 

Octandria II 

Deeandria  •  • .  ^ 38 

Uodecandria 1 

Icosandria 20 

Polyandria 24 

Dydynaniia 15 

Tetrady uatuia 23 


Amount  of  ipeciet. 

Monodclphia 1 

Diadelphia 23 

Syngenesia 52 

Gynandria 8 

iMontecia 30 

Di.Tcia 24 

Cryptoeamia, 

Filices 19 

Musci 73 

IlepaticsB 16 

Lichenes 121 

Fungi 19 

Algu: 5 


We  shall  briefly  notice  a  few  species,  remarkable  for  their 
economic  or  other  uses.  The  juice  of  the  Galium  tincforium 
is  used  indiscriminately  with  that  of  G.  boreale^  by  the 
women  of  the  Cree  nation,  for  the  purpose  of  dying  their 
porcupine  quills.  The  lead-coloured  fruit  of  Cornus  alba 
are  called  bear-berries  (musqua-meena)  by  the  Crees,  be- 
cause the  bear  is  known  to  feed  and  fatten  on  them.  A 
new  species  of  phlox  was  discovered  by  the  expedition,  and 
named  Phlox  HoodiU  "  as  a  small  tribute,"  Dr.  Richardson 
informs  us,  "  to  the  memory  of  my  lamented  friend  and 
companion,  whose  genius,  had  his  life  been  spared,  would 
have  raised  him  to  a  conspicuous  station  in  his  profession, 
and  rendered  him  an  ornament  to  any  science  to  which  ho 
might  have  chosen  to  direct  his  attention."  This  beautiful 
plant  is  a  striking  ornament  to  the  plains  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Carlton  House,  where  it  forms  large  patches,  con- 
spicuous from  a  distance.     The  red  berries  of  the  Viburnum 


tLAS'tS. 


311 


the  excep- 
>f  the  Cop- 
n  intrusted 

;hen,  wl»e»* 
•  undertook 
jthing  more 
portions  of 

Jescribet^  in 

These  are 

mcrical  pro- 


Amount  of  ipeciM. 

1 

""  23 

■*; 52 

■•"   8 

" 39 

;; 24 

19 

••  73 

•    16 

■ 121 

19 

••   5 


:able  for  their 
urn  tinctorium 
jreale^  by  the 
[of  dying  their 
'f  Cormis  alba 
lg  Crees,  be- 
on  them.     A 
[xpedition,  and 
Sr.  Richardson 
[ed  friend  and 
spared,  would 
fiis  profession, 
e  to  which  he 
[This  beautiful 
the  neighbour- 
patches,  con- 
the  Viburnum 


edrdtt  named  winter-berries  by  the  Crecs,  were  observed  to 
bo  highly  ornumontal  to  th«  woods.  The  bruised  bark  of 
the  root  of  Azalra  nndirivilis  is  nppliod  by  the  Indians  to 
rccen^  wounds.  The  Lilii/m  Phil  add pfucnrti  is  called 
mouse-root  by  ihe  Crees,  bfcause  the  common  mouse  of 
their  country  (a  species  of  campa^nol)  is  known  to  feed 
upon  its  scaly  bulbs.  The  Canadian  voyagers  use  the 
young  shoots  of  Epilnhium  anrjufstifdlium  as  a  pot-herb,  ui; 
der  the  name  Uhcrbc  fret.  The  Ledum  latifcliumy  some- 
times used  as  tea,  is  named  kawkee-kee-pucquaw  (ever- 
grt!en,  or  always  leaves),  and  also  maska^g  or  medicine,  be- 
cause the  natives  think  that  the  white  residents  drink  its 
infusion  as  a  medicine.  The  Ledum  palufttrey  according  to 
Dr.  Richardson,  forms  a  better  substitute  for  tea  than  the 
plant  just  named. 

The  Prunus  Virginiana  grows  to  be  a  handsome  small 
tree,  rising  on  the  sandy  plains  of  the  Saskatchjxwan  to  the 
height  of  twenty  feet,  and  extending  as  far  north  as  GSreat 
Slave  Lake,  where,  however,  it  attains  the  height  of  only 
five  feet.  Its  fruit,  known  under  the  name  of  choke-cherry, 
is  not  very  edible  in  the  recent  state,  but  forms  a  desirable 
addition  to  pemmican  when  dried  and  bruised.  The  Pyrus 
ovalis  of  Pursh  is  a  common  plant  as  far  north  as  hit.  62°, 
and  abounds  in  the  plains  of  the  Saskatchawan.  Its  wood 
is  greatly  esteemed  by  the  Crees,  for  the  formation  of  ar- 
rows and  pipe-stems  ;  it  is  hence  called  bois  de  jliche  by  the 
Canadian  voyagers.  Its  berritis,  about  the  size  of  a  pea, 
are  the  finest  fruit  in  the  country,  and  are  used  by  the 
Crees  under  the  name  of  Messasscootoommcona,  both  fresh 
and  dried.     They  make  excellent  puddings. 

Among  the  Syngenesious  plants  we  shall  signalize  only 
two  examples.  The  Crepis  nana^  a  singular  species,  ap- 
pears to  have  been  noticed  by  the  land-expedition  only  on 
the  banks  of  the  Coppermine  River.  The  polar  voyagers 
collected  it  in  Repulse  Bay,  Five  Hawser  Bay,  and  Lyon 
Inlet. 

The  Cineraria  congesta^  described  by  Mr.  Brown,*  varies 
from  three  to  seven  inches  in  height.  The  leaves  are  some- 
times merely  undulated,  at  other  tirw^t  furnished  with  long, 
spreading,  sharp,  unequal,  tooth-like  processes.     Generally 

*  Appendix  to  Parry'o  First  Voyage,  p.  279. 


\ . 


i 


'*-mi 


V 


312 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


the  flowers  are  collected  into  a  remarkably  compact  head  \ 
but  in  two  specimens  examined  by  Dr.  Hooker,*  several  of 
the  flower-stalks  spriig  singly  from  the  axils  of  the  leaves 
up  the  whole  length  of  the  stem ;  in  which  case  they  are 
mostly  single-flowered,  truncated,  and  leafy ;  but  always 
clothed,  in  common  with  the  involucre,  by  a  beautiful  long 
and  dense  silky  wool,  by  which  character  this  species  ap- 
pears to  be  principally  distinguished  from  C.  palustris. 
Specimens  of  this  plant  were  gathered  by  Dr.  Richardson 
in  Bathurst  Inlet,  on  the  shore  of  the  Arctic  Sea,  on  the 
25th  of  July.  According  to  Mr.  Edwards,  the  individuals 
in  Captain  Parry's  collection,  which  have  elongated  flower- 
stalks,  were  drawn  out  by  having  been  made  to  grow  on 
board  ship ;  at  least  he  has  seen  such  treatment  produce 
precisely  that  effect ;  and  he  adds  that  in  its  native  place  of 
growth  he  never  observed  the  plant  otherwise  than  remark- 
ably dense  and  crowded  in  its  inflorescence. 

The  black  American  spruce  (Pinus  nigra^  Lamb.)  ia 
found  in  swampy  situations  as  far  north  as  lat.  65°,  where  it 
terminates  along  with  the  Betula  papyracea.  The  white 
American  spruce  (P.  alba.  Lamb.)  is  mentioned  by  Dr. 
Richardson  as  the  most  northern  tree  which  came  under  his 
observation.  "  On  the  Coppermine  River,  within  twenty 
miles  of  the  Arctic  Sea,  it  attains  the  height  of  twenty  feet 
or  more.  Its  timber  is  in  common  use  throughout  the  coun- 
try, and  its  slender  roots,  denominated  Watapeh,  are  indis- 
pensable to  canoe-makers  for  sewing  the  slips  of  birch-bark 
together.  The  resin  which  it  exudes  is  used  for  paying 
over  the  seams  of  the  canoes ;  and  canoes  for  temporary 
purposes  are  frequently  formed  of  its  own  bark.  It  is  the 
only  tree  that  the  Esquimaux  of  the  Arctic  Sea  have  access 
to  while  growing,  and  they  contrive  to  make  pretty  strong 
bows  by  joining  pieces  of  its  wood  together."!  The  Scrub 
or  gray  pine  {Pinus  Banksiana^  Lamb.),  in  dry  sandy  soils, 
prevails  to  the  exclusion  of  all  others.  It  is  a  handsome 
tree  with  long,  spreading,  flexible  branches,  generally  fur- 
nished with  whorled  curved  cones  of  many  years'  growth. 
It  attains  the  height  of  forty  feet  and  upwards  in  favourable 
ntuaiions ;  but  the  diameter  of  its  trunk  is  greater  in  pro- 

*  Appendix  to  Parry's  First  Voyage,  p.  397. 
t  Appendix  to  Franklin's  First  Journey,  p.  759. 


\\    i 


M^i 


PLANTS, 


313 


ipact  head? 
*  several  of 
F  the  leaves 
ise  they  are 
but  always 
lautiful  long 
;  species  ap- 
:?.  palustns. 
,  Richardson 
;  Sea,  on  the 
le  individuals 
gated  flower- 
i  to  grow  on 
nent  produce 
ative  place  of 
than  remark- 


■a,  Lamb.)  w 
.  65°,  where  it 
I.     The  white 
tioned  by  Dr. 
;ame  under  his 
within  twenty 
of  twenty  feet 
hout  the  coun- 
peh,  are  indis- 
;  of  birch-bark 
led  for  paying 
for  temporary 
ark.     It  is  the 
ea  have  access 
pretty  strong 
t     The  Scrub 
Iry  sandy  soils, 
,s  a  handsome 
generally  fur- 
years'  growth. 
Is  in  favourable 
reater  in  pto- 

Ip.  759. 


portion  to  its  height  than  that  of  the  other  pines  of  the 
country.  It  exudes  less  resin  than  P.  alha.  The  Canada 
porcupine  feeds  upon  its  bark ;  and  its  wood,  from  its  light- 
ness and  the  straightness  and  toughness  of  its  fibres,  is 
highly  prized  as  canoe  timbers.  It  was  observed  on  the 
route  of  the  overland  expedition  as  far  north  as  lat.  64°  ; 
but  on  the  sandy  banks  of  the  Mackenzie  it  is  said  to  attain 
to  a  still  higher  latitude.*  The  American  larch  (P.  micro- 
carpay  Lamb.)  was  observed  in  swampy  situations  from  York 
Factory  to  Point  Lake,  in  lat.  65°.  It  was,  however,  of 
dwarfish  growth  in  the  last-named  locality,  seldom  exceed- 
ing the  height  of  six  or  eight  feet. 

One  of  the  most  magnificent  of  the  newly-discovered 
forest-trees  of  North  America  is  Lambert's  pine  (Pimis 
Lambertiana,  Douglas).  Its  principal  localities  are  probably 
to  the  south  of  the  districts  with  which  we  are  here  more 
especially  interested  ;  but  as  its  northern  boundaries  are 
not  yet  known,  and  as  it  forms  in  itself  so  fine  a  feature  in 
this  department  of  botany,  we  cannot  leave  it  altogether 
unnoticed.  It  covers  large  districts  in  Northern  California, 
about  a  hundred  miles  from  the  ocean,  in  lat.  43°  north, 
and  extends  as  far  south  as  4°.  It  grows  sparingly  upon 
low  hills,  and  the  undulating  country  east  of  a  range  of 
mountains,  running  in  a  south-western  direction  from  the 
Rocky  Mountains  towards  the  sea,  where  the  soil  consists 
entirely  of  pure  sand.  It  forms  no  dense  forests  like  most 
of  the  other  pines  of  North  America,  but  is  seen  scattered 
singly  over  the  plains,  more  after  the  manner  of  Finns 
resinosa.  The  trunk  of  this  gigantic  tree  attains  a  height 
of  from  150  to  upwards  of  250  feet,  varying  from  twenty 
to  nearly  sixty  feet  in  circumference  ; — thus  far  exceeding 

"  The  tallest  pine 
Hewn  on  Norwegian  hills  to  be  the  mast 
Of  some  great  ammiral." 

*  Appendix  to  Franklin's  First  Journey,  p.  752— This  is  the  only 
American  species  that  makes  any  approach  in  habit  and  appearance  to 
the  Pinus  sylvestris,  commonly  called  the  Scotch  fir.  A  distinguished 
writer  in  the  Quarterly  Review  ascribed  the  deterioration  of  our  planta- 
tions of  the  last-named  tree  to  the  circumstance  of  our  nurserymen  find- 
ing it  cheaper  to  import  cones  from  Canada,  than  to  pay  for  gathering 
them  in  Braemar,— a  charge,  however,  from  which  the  trade  must  be 
fully  and  freely  acquitted,  as  the  Pinus  sylvestris  does  not  in  fact  exist 
ill  America. 

Dd 


*-". 

C 

Ut 


■  If 


i 


i 


\\\ 


■  f 


I 


314 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


The  stem  is  remarkably  straight,  and  is  destitute  of 
branches  for  about  two-thirds  of  its  height.  The  bark  is 
uncommonly  smooth  for  such  large  timber ;  of  a  light-brown 
colour  on  the  south,  and  bleached  on  the  north  side.  The 
branches  are  rather  pendulous,  and  form  an  open  pyramidal 
head,  with  that  appearance  which  is  peculiar  to  the  abies 
tribe.  The  leaves  are  rigid,  from  four  to  five  inches  long, 
of  a  bright  green  colour,  and  grow  in  fives.  The  cones  are 
pendulous  from  the  extremities  of  the  branches,  and  when 
ripe  measure  about  eleven  inches  in  circumference  at  the 
thickest  part,  and  from  twelve  to  sixteen  inches  in  length. 
The  scales  are  lax,  rounded,  and  destitute  of  spines.  The 
seeds  are  large,  eight  lines  long  and  four  broad,  of  an  oval 
form.  Their  kernel  is  sweet  and  of  a  pleasant  taste.  The 
timber  is  white,  soft,  and  light.  It  abounds  in  turpentine 
reservoirs  ;  its  specific  gravity  is  0*463  ;  and  the  whole  tree 
produces  an  abundance  of  amber-coloured  resin.  That 
which  exudes  from  the  tree  when  it  is  partly  burned  loses 
its  usual  flavour,  and  acquires  a  sweet  taste,  in  which  state 
it  is  used  by  the  natives  as  sugar,  being  mixed  with  their 
food.*  The  seeds  also  are  eaten  when  roasted,  and  they 
are  likewise  pounded  into  coarse  cakes  and  stored  for  winter 
use.+ 

Numerous  species  of  willow  occur  in  the  Northern  Re- 
gions of  America, — they  are  not  yet  well  defined.     The 


*  Mr.  David  Douglas,  in  Linn.  Trans.,  vol.  xv.,  and  Edin.  New  Phil. 
Jour.  vol.  V.  p.  401. 

t  We  trusi  that  our  accomplished  correspondent,  Dr.  Traill,  of  Liver- 
pool, will  excuse  our  making  the  following  extract  from  one  of  his 
private  letters.  "  Have  you  seen  Douglas?  I  was  greatly  pleased  with 
his  intelligence  and  modesty.  He  gave  me  a  most  irteresting  sketch  of 
his  travels  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  a  simple  but  appalling 
account  of  the  privations  of  a  traveller  in  that  part  of  the  New  World. 
The  contrast  between  the  vegetation  of  the  western  and  eastern  sides  of 
the  chain  is  striking.  The  variety  of  oaks,  juglandes,  and  elms,  inter- 
si)ers^d  with  magnolias  and  rhododendrons,  form  the  striking  peculiari- 
ties of  the  eastern, — but  beyond  the  mountains  only  one  species  of  oak 
is  found,  while  neither  elms,  juglandes,  nor  magnolias  occur,  and  only  a 
single  rhododendron.  It  is,  however,  the  favourite  haunt  of  the  giant-pine. 
He  had  measured  several  more  than  250  feet  high,— he  saw  some  still 
taller,  and  took  the  circumference  of  a  stem  denuded  of  its  bark,  which 
was  forty-eight  feet  in  circumference,  and  at  190  feet  from  its  base  still 
bore  a  circumference  of  four  and  a  half  feet.  The  annual  rings  on  one 
stem  were  ascertained  to  be  nine  hundred.^* 


^ 


lestitute    of 
The  bark  is 
light-brown 
L  side.     The 
m  pyramidal 
to  the  abies 
inches  long, 
he  cones  are 
>s,  and  when 
Ejrence  at  the 
les  in  length, 
jpines.     The 
J,  of  an  oval 
;  taste.     The 
in  turpentine 
he  whole  tree 
resin.     That 
r  burned  loses 
n  which  state 
:ed  with  their 
3ted,  and  they 
»red  for  winter 

Northern  Re- 
iefined.     The 

Edin.  New  Phil. 

Traill,  of  Llver- 
from  one  of  his 
ally  pleased  with 
•esting  sketch  of 
)le  but  appalling 
the  New  World, 
eastern  sides  of 
and  elms,  inter- 
jtriking  peculiari- 
le  species  of  oak 
occur,  and  only  a 
of  the  giant-pine. 
le  saw  some  still 
if  its  bark,  which 
from  its  base  still 
ual  rings  o»  on« 


PLANTS. 


315 


plant  which  yields  the  whortleberry  {Empctrnm  nigrum)  is 
valuable  in  these  inhospitable  rogions.  Its  fruit,  after  the 
first  frosts,  is  juicy  and  very  pleasant ;  it  is  much  sought 
after  and  carefully  hoarded  by  the  different  kinds  of  mar- 
mot, and  forms  the  autumnal  food  of  th.at  species  of  duck 
called  Anas  hyperborea.  The  Indian  women  use  the  buds 
of  Myrica  gale  to  die  their  porcupine  quills.  The  Ameri- 
can trembling  poplar  (Po/)?//m5  trepicla)  occurs  from  Hudson's 
Bay  as  far  to  the  northward  of  Great  Slave  Lake  as  lat. 
64°.  It  is  found  to  burn  better  in  a  green  state  than  any 
other  tree  of  the  country.  The  form  of  the  leaf-stalk  in 
this  species  is  highly  curious,  and  beautifully  accords  with, 
and  accounts  for,  its  continual  motion, — the  upper  part  be- 
ing rounded,  and  suddenly,  at  its  junction  with  the  leaf, 
becoming  so  thin  and  flat  as  to  have  scarcely  sufficient 
strength  to  support  it.  The  balsam  poplar  (P.  balsamifera) 
may  be  said  to  grow  to  a  greater  circumference  than  any 
other  species  in  these  northern  regions.  Although  it  bums 
badly  when  green,  and  gives  little  heat,  its  ashes  yield  a 
great  quantity  of  potash.  It  was  traced  as  far  north  as 
Great  Slave  Lake,  and  the  south  branch  of  the  Mackenzie 
has  been  named  Rividre  aux  Liards,  from  its  frequent  preva- 
lence in  that  quarter.  Great  part  of  the  drift-timber  ob- 
served on  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Sea  belongs  to  this  spe- 
cies of  tree.  It  is  called  ugly  poplar  (matheh-meetoos)  by 
the  Crees. 

The  fruit  of  the  common  juniper  is  known  under  the 
appellation  of  crowberry  to  the  last-named  nation  ;  and  an- 
other species  of  that  plant,  of  almost  equal  frequency  (Jm- 
niperus  prostrata\  grows  close  to  the  ground,  and  sends  out 
flageliform  branches  two  yards  long. 

Of  the  Musci  we  shall  here  mention  the  Splachnum 
mnioideSy  which  is  very  common  on  the  Barren  Grounds, 
where  it  forms  little  tufts,  the  roots  of  which  are  found 
always  to  include  the  bones  of  some  small  animal.  Di- 
cranum  elongatum  likewise  occurs  on  those  desolate  districts 
where,  with  other  species  of  the  genus,  it  forms  dense 
tufts  very  troublesome  to  pedestrians.  These  are  called 
"  women's  heads"  by  the  Indians,  "  because,"  say  the  latter, 
"  when  you  kick  them,  they  do  not  get  out  of  the  way  ;"— 
a  fine  commentary  on  a  life  of  unsophisticated  nature,  and  a 


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316 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


beautiful  illustration  of  the  refined  ideas  which  prevail  in 
countries 

"  Where  wild  in  woods  the  noble  savage  runs." 

Of  the  Lichenes,  of  which  there  are  many  species  in 
these  northern  countries,  we  shall  name  a  few  examples. 
Gyrophora  proboscidea  is  found  on  rocks  on  the  Barren 
Grounds,  and  is  more  abundant  towards  the  Arctic  Sea 
than  G.  hyperborea.  These  two  species,  in  common  with 
G.  Pennsylvanica  and  Mecklenhergii^  were  found  in  greater 
or  less  abundance  in  almost  all  rocky  places  throughout  the 
northern  portions  of  the  over-land  journey.  They  were  all 
four  used  as  food ;  but  as  our  travellers  had  not  the  means 
of  extracting  the  bitter  principle  from  them,  they  proved  in- 
jurious to  several  of  the  party  by  inducing  severe  bowel- 
complaints.  The  Indians  reject  them  all  except  G.  Meek' 
lenbcrgiii  which,  when  boiled  along  with  fish-roe  or  other 
animal  matter,  is  agreeable  and  nutritious.  The  last-named 
lichen  is,  however,  rather  scarce  on  the  Barren  Grounds ; 
and  Dr.  Richardson  and  his  companions  were  obliged  to  re- 
sort to  the  other  three,  which,  though  they  served  the  pur- 
pose of  allaying  the  appetite,  were  found  to  be  very  ineffi- 
cient in  restoring  or  recruiting  strength.  The  G.  vellea  is 
characteristic  of  moist  and  shady  rocks,  and  is  consequently 
most  luxuriant  in  woods.  It  forms  a  pleasanter  food  than 
any  of  the  species  we  have  named ;  but  it  unfortunately 
occurs  but  sparingly  on  the  Barren  Grounds,  where  its 
presence  would  be  most  desirable.  A  new  plant  named 
Cetrari  ^  Richardsonii  by  Dr.  Hooker,  was  found  on  these 
grounds  generally  in  the  tracks  of  the  reindeer.  It  did 
not  appear  to  occur  to  the  southward  of  the  Great  Slave 
Lake.  About  a  score  of  fungi  were  picked  up  by  our  sci- 
entific travellers.  Exclusive  of  a  conferva,  and  the  frag- 
ment of  a  floridea,  the  Fucus  cerariQides  was  the  only  alga 
observed  in  the  Arctic  seas.* 

The  Appendix  to  Captain  Parry's  second  voyage  was 
published  in  1825,  and  contains,  among  other  highly-prized 
contributions,  a  botanical  Appendix  by  Dr.  Hooker.  When 
the  extent  of  the  collections  examined  by  that  accomplished 

*  Appendix  to  Franklin's  First  Journey,  p.  703. 


PLANTS. 


317 


ich  prevail  in 


ns." 

my  species  in 
few  examples. 
»n  the  Barren 
le  Arctic  Sea 
common  with 
und  in  greater 
throughout  the 
They  were  all 
not  the  mea,ns 
they  proved  in- 
severe  bowel- 
xcept  G.  Meek- 
sh-roe  or  other 
The  last-named 
rren  Grounds; 
re  obliged  to  re- 
served the  pur- 
,0  be  very  ineffi- 
'he  G.  vellea  is 
is  consequently 
nter  food  than 
t  unfortunately 
nds,  where  its 
IV  plant  named 
found  on  these 
ndeer.     It   did 
,e  Great  Slave 
up  by  our  sci- 
and  the  frag- 
is  the  only  alga 

Id  voyage  was 
tr  highly-prized 
looker.  When 
[t  accomplished 

k  763. 


botanist  is  consideredt  a  greater  accession  of  new  species 
might  have  been  expected  than  actually  occurred  ;  but  this 
is  perhaps  to  be  explained  by  the  circumstance  of  the  coun- 
tries explored  during  the  second  voyage  being  as  it  were 
intermediate  between  those  previously  examined, — Melville 
Island  being  to  the  north,  and  the  continental  portion  of 
America,  bordering  the  Arctic  Sea,  lying  to  the  south  of  the 
districts  to  which  we  at  present  more  immediately  refer. 
This,  in  the  opinion  of  Dr.  Hooker,  diminished  the  probability 
of  the  occurrence  of  many  new  species.  In  point  of  mere 
number,  however,  the  second  collections  very  considerably 
exceeded  those  of  the  preceding  voyage, — and  this  may  be 
explained  partly  by  the  more  southern  latitude  in  which  the 
plants  were  gathered,  and  partly  by  the  length  of  time 
spent  in  those  districts.  Dr.  Hooker  conceives  that,  as  an 
illustration  of  the  botanical  productions  of  a  region  extend- 
ing from  between  lat.  62°  to  70°  north,  his  catalogue  may 
be  regarded  as  tolerably  complete.  The  variety  of  crypto- 
gamia  is  particularly  great,  and  the  herbaria  were  in  such 
admirable  order  as  to  reflect  the  highest  credit  on  the  skill 

I        and  assiduity  of  the  gentlemen  by  whom  they  were  collected 

'         and  preserved. 

"  It  may  not  be  amiss,"  Dr.  Hooker  observes,  "  to  notice 
here  the  extreme  difficulty  which  attends  the  determination 
of  what  ought  and  what  ought  not  to  be  considered  as  good 
species  among  Arctic  plants.  Vegetables  of  our  own  more 
southern  latitudes  often  assume,  in  those  frigid  regions,  an 
aspect  quite  diflferent  from  what  we  are  accustomed  to  see 
them  wear  ;  and  which,  without  referring  to  a  very  extensive 
series  of  specimens,  might  well  be  supposed  to  afford  de- 
cided marks  of  specific  distinction.  Mr.  Brown  seems  to  be 
fully  aware  of  this,  and  he  speaks  with  caution  of  the 
identity  of  several  of  his  new  species.  In  more  than  one 
instance,  after  having  drawn  out  a  description  of  a  supposed 
new  individual,  I  have  found  cause  to  alter  my  opinion  con- 
cerning it,  and  finally  to  consider  it  only  as  a  variety  of  a  well- 
known  kind  ;  nor  shall  I  be  surprised  if  future  observations 
should  show  that  my  Saxifra^ra  plantaginifolia  must  be 
united  to  »S.  nivalis,  and  my  Chrysanthemum  grandijlorum 
to  C.  inodorum,  though  at  first  sight  nothing  can  appear 
more  distinct."* 

*  Appendix  to  Parry's  Second  Voyage  to  the  Arctic  Regions,  p.  369. 

Dd2 


■  ■  'A 


\% 


318 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


V 


h 


r . 


n 


We  shall  conclude  this  branch  of  the  subject  by  a  few 
miscellaneous  notices  of  recently-discovered  species. 

The  ten- leaved  everlasting  pea  {Lathy rus  decaphyllus) 
was  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Saskatchawan  by  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson and  Mr.  Drummond.  It  is  adorned  by  fine  heads  of 
flowers,  of  a  bright  red  colour  before  expansion,  but  which 
become  purple  as  they  open.  This  is  an  exceedingly 
ornamental  plant,  measuring  about  three  feet  in  height.  It 
was  first  raised  in  this  country  by  Mr.  Patrick  Neill,  of 
Canonmills,  a  gentleman  well  known  for  his  encouragement 
of  horticulture,  and  for  his  general  attainments  in  many 
branches  of  natural  science. 

Franklin's  eutoca  (Eutoca  Franklinii).*  This  interest- 
ing annual  was  discovered  by  Dr.  Richardson  during  the 
first  over-land  expedition.  It  was  found  growing  in  abun- 
dance among  trees  that  had  been  destroyed  by  fire,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Missinnippi,  and  was  named  by  Mr.  Brown 
in  honour  of  the  leader  of  the  gallant  band.f  It  has  now 
become  well  known  in  our  gardens,  the  seeds  collected 
during  the  second  expedition  having  been  pretty  generally 
distributed.  It  is  a  hardy  plant,  which  recomme  ids  itself 
to  notice  by  the  profusion  of  its  bright  blue-coloured  blost 
soms.t 

The  seashore  lupin  (Lupinus  littoralis).^  This  orna« 
mental  and  hardy  perennial  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Douglas, 
who  found  it  "  growing  abundantly  on  the  seashore  of 
North-west  America,  from  Cape  Mendocino  to  Puget'a 
Sound.  Its  tough  branching  roots  are  serviceable  in  bind- 
ing together  the  loose  sand,  and  they  are  also  used  by  the 
natives  of  the  river  Columbia  as  winter  food,  being  pre- 
pared by  the  simple  process  of  drawing  them  through  the 
fire  until  all  their  moisture  is  dissipated.  The  roots  are 
theii  tied  up  in  small  bundles,  and  will  keep  for  several 
months  ;  when  eaten,  they  are  roasted  on  the  embers,  and 
become  farinaceous.  The  vernacular  name  of  this  plant  is 
Somtiuchtan ;  and  it  is  the  liquorice  spoken  of  by  Lewis  and 
Clarke,  and  by  the  navigators  who  have  visited  the  north- 
west coast  of  America. 

*  Botanical  Magazine,  t.  2985. 

T  Addenda  to  Appendix  to  Franklin's  First  Journey,  d.  764.  and 
tab.  27.  '»   r         I 

t  Dr.  Hooker,  in  Bot.  Mag.  (  ibid.  t.  2059. 


PLANTS. 


319 


We  may  add  that  Mr.  Douglas  has  enriched  our  gardens 
by  upwards  of  ten  new  species  of  this  fine  genus. 

Beautiful  Clarkia  {Clarkia  pulchclla).*  This  hardy  an- 
nual deserves  its  specific  name,  as  it  is  really  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  which  has  been  recently  introduced  into  our 
gardens.  It  was  first  discovered  by  Mr.  Lewis  on  the 
Kooskoosky  and  Clarke  Rivers,  but  was  afterward  found  by 
Mr.  Douglas  extending  from  the  great  falls  of  the  Columbia 
to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  seeds  were  forwarded  by  him 
to  the  London  Horticultural  Society.  The  flowers  are 
generally  of  a  fine  lilac  colour,  but  a  pure  white  varieiy  is 
also  known. 

Mr.  Douglas  discovered  in  the  northern  parts  of  America, 
and  introduced  into  the  British  gardens,  about  fifteen  new 
species  of  Pentstemon,  all  of  which  are  ornamental,  and 
many  exceedingly  beautiful  herbaceous  plants.  To  the 
same  intelligent  and  indefatigable  collector  we  are  also  in- 
debted for  several  fine  species  of  CEnothera  or  tree  primrose. 
We  owe  to  Dr.  Richardson  and  Mr.  Drummond  the  in- 
troduction to  our  gardens  of  the  following  species  : — viz. 
Gerardia  capitata^  a  handsome  perennial ;  an  apparently 
new  species  of  Dodecatheoriy  which  has  flowered  this  sum- 
mer in  the  Edinburgh  Botanic  Garden  ;  Andromeda  tetra- 
gonaj  Menziesia  empetrifolia^  Azalea  Lapponica  (three  very 
beautiful- small  shrubby  plants),  and  Dry  as  Drummondiu 
The  last-named  plant  bears  yellow  flowers.  Of  the  other 
two  known  species  of  the  genus,  one  of  which  is  a  native 
of  the  mountains  of  Scotland,  the  flowers  are  white. 


I 


\    ^•^- 


I*     ». 


*  Dr.  Hooker,  in  Bot.  Mag.  t.  2918. 


320 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


! 


f 


;# 


4 


CHAPTER  X. 

Sketch  of  the  Geological  Features  of  some  of  the  Northern 

Districts  of  America. 

Frozen  Subsoil  of  Hudson's  Bay — Primitive  Rocks  of  Hayes  River — 
Hill  River— Borders  of  Knee  Lake — Remarkable  Rock-island  of  Mag- 
netic Iron  Ore — Lake  Winipeg— Limestone  District— Fort  Chipewyan 
— Carp  Lake— Gneiss  Formation  of  the  Barren  Grounds — Transparent 
Waters  of  Great  Bear  Lake— Fort  Franklin— Bear  Lake  River-  Lig- 
nite Formation  of  Mackenzie  River — Spontaneous  Fire — Pipe  Clay — 
Alluvial  Islands  at  the  Mouth  of  the  Mackenzie — Copi»er  Mountains — 
Coppermine  River — Islands  of  the  Arctic  Sea — Arctic  Shore — Cape 
Barrow — Galena  Point — Moore's  Bay — Bankes'  Peninsula — Barry's 
Island— Cape  Croker— Point  Turnagain— General  Occurrence  of  the 
New  Red  Sand-Stone- Hood's  River — Wilberforce  Falls— Gneiss  For- 
mation—General Summary. 

The  great  extent  of  country  traversed  by  our  over-land 
adventurers,  the  dreary  continuance  of  that  universal  snow, 
which  so  long  rendered  the  surface  of  the  earth  in  many 
places  almost  inaccessible,  the  frequent  journeys  in  canoes, 
and  the  difficulties  which  almost  perpetually  prevailed  in 
the  way  of  transporting  weighty  articles,  prevented  a  com- 
plete or  very  satisfactory  knowledge  being  obtained  of  the 
geological  structure  of  the  Northern  Regions  of  America.* 
For  the  reasons  stated  below,  we  shall  here  confine  our 
observations  to  certain  restricted  districts  in  those  regions. 

Between  the  fifty-sixth  and  fifty-eighth  parallels  the  west- 
ern shores  of  Hudson's  Bay  are  extremely  flat,  and  the 
depth  of  water  decreases  very  gradually  on   approaching 

*In  the  fourteenth  volume  of  the  Family  Library,  entitled  "Nar- 
rative of  Discovery  and  Adventure  in  the  Polar  Seas  and  Regions,"  the 
reader  will  find  a  chapter  on  Arctic  Geology  by  Professor  Jameson,  in 
which  the  characteristic  formations  of  Cherie  Island,  Jan  Mayen's  Island, 
Spitzbersen,  Old  Greenland,  and  the  various  insular  and  continental 
sliores  explored  by  the  expeditions  under  Ca|itains  Ross  and  Parry,  are 
described  and  commented  on.  So  far,  therefore,  as  regards  many  of  the 
great  North-eastern  regions  of  America,  we  beg  to  refer  the  reader  to 
Professor  Jameson's  skilful  summary.  See  also  observations  on  the 
Rock  Specimens  collected  during  the  First  Polar  Voyage,  by  Charles 
Konig,  Esq.    Supplement  to  the  Appendix,  p.  247, 


'V 

1     if 


GEOLOGY. 


321 


le  Northern 


[ayes  River— 
sland  of  Mag- 
rt  Chipewyan 
—Transparent 
[e  River-  Lig- 
-Pipe  Clay— 
r  Mountains — 
Shore— Cape 
isula— Barry's 
iirrence  of  the 
J— Gneiss  For- 


ur  over-land 
versal  snow, 
th  in  many 
s  in  canoes, 
prevailed  in 
snted  a  com- 
lined  of  the 
f  America.* 
confine  our 
se  regions, 
els  the  west- 
at,  and  the 
pproaching 

Entitled  "Nar- 

[  Regions,"  the 

ir  Jameson,  in 

|layen's  Island, 

id  continental 

ind  Parry,  are 

Is  many  of  the 

I  the  reader  to 

Irations  on  the 

1%,  by  Charles 


them.  Dr.  Richardson  states  that  in  seven  fathoms  of 
water  the  tops  of  the  trees  are  just  visible  from  a  ship*s 
deck.  Large  boulder-stones  are  scattered  over  the  beach, 
and  sometimes  form  shoals  as  far  as  five  miles  from  shore. 
These  are,  of  course,  troublesome  and  dangerous  to  boats. 
Hayes  and  Nelson  Rivers  enter  Hudson's  Bay  about  the 
central  portion  of  this  quarter.  They  are  separated  on 
reaching  the  coast  merely  by  a  low  alluvial  point  of  land, 
on  which  York  Factory  is  stationed.  A  low  and  uniformly 
swampy  aspect  characterizes  the  surrounding  country  and 
the  banks  of  Hayes  River  at  least  for  fifty  miles  inland. 
The  upper  soil  presents  a  thin  strtitum  of  half-decayed 
mosses,  immediately  under  which  we  find  a  thick  bed  of 
tenacious  and  somewhat  slaty  bluish  clay  containing  boulder- 
stones.  Forests,  consisting  chiefly  of  spruces,  larches,  and 
poplars,  occur,  but  the  individual  trees,  except  under  local 
circumstances  of  a  favourable  nature,  are  of  a  small  size. 

The  subsoil  is  generally  frozen,  and  as  it  consequently 
retains  a  great  deal  of  the  surface-water,  swamps  of  sphagna 
and  other  mosses  are  always  being  formed  ;  but  the  bright 
summer  days,  though  long,  are  few,  and  as  vegetation  thus 
decays  but  slowly,  little  peat  occurs.  During  a  favourable 
season  the  ground  thaws  to  the  depth  of  about  four  feet ; 
but  there  still  remains,  it  is  said,  a  frozen  bed  of  ten  or 
eleven  feet,  beneath  which  we  find  loose  sand.  As  the 
earth  is  not  thus  permanently  frozen  in  the  interior  countries 
of  North  America,  the  ungenial  condition  of  the  soil  about 
York  Factory  ought  probably  to  be  attributed  to  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  sea,  which  is  too  much  encumbered  with 
ice  during  winter  to  mitigate  the  severity  of  those  naturally 
frost-bound  regions,  and  being  laden  along  shore  with 
numerous  icebergs  and  other  insulated  masses,  even  to  the 
middle  of  August,  must  of  course  diminish  the  intensity  of 
the  summer  heat.^ 

The  boulder-stones  just  mentioned  show  that  there  occur 
in  the  district  of  Hayes  River  several  primitive  rocks,  such 
as  red  granite,  hornblende  rock,  gneiss,  and  syenite  ;  of  the 
transition  class,  graywacke  ;  and  of  the  secondary  class,  red 
sandstone,  belonging  probably  to  the  new  red  sandstone 

*  Appendix  to  Franklin's  First  Journey  to  the  Shores  of  the  Polar 
fiea,  p.  490. 


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322 


NATURAL    HISTORY. 


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ii 


formation,  in  which  is  included  the  rothegende  and  varie- 
gated sandstone.  Two  kinds  of  limestone  likewise  occur 
in  this  district. 

The  banks  of  Steel  River,  the  principal  branch  of  the 
Hayes,  present  the  same  general  characters  as  those  of  the 
stream  into  which  it  flows.  The  same  may  be  said  of  Fox 
and  Hill  Rivers,  the  union  of  which  forms  the  Steel  River. 
However,  on  the  lower  parts  of  Hill  River  the  banks  are 
more  varied  in  their  outlines,  and  rising  more  precipitately 
and  from  a  narrow  channel,  they  attain  to  an  elevation  of 
nearly  200  feet.  About  a  mile  below  the  Rock  Portage, 
that  is,  about  100  milei^  from  the  sea,  rocks  first  occur  in 
situ.  They  consist  of  ^^neiss,  and  rise  in  the  channel  of 
the  river  from  beneath  lofty  banks  of  clay.  This  gneiss 
formation  seems  to  extend  to  Lake  Winipeg,  am'  contains 
subordinate  bods  and  veins  of  granite,  and  beds  of  horn- 
blende rock,  and  mica-slate.  At  the  Swampy  Portage  a  bed 
of  red  felspar  occurs.  It  contains  small  grains  of  epidote, 
and  at  the  Upper  Portage  hornblende-slate  was  observed^ 
alternating  with  gray  gneiss,  slightly  intermingled  with 
hornblende,  together  with  beds  of  quartz  rock  containing 
precious  garnets.  At  the  Lower  Portage  on  Jack  River 
(the  name  of  Hill  River  after  crossing  Swampy  Lake)  a  red 
granite  occurs.  The  rocks  on  Jack  River  are  low,  with  a 
very  spare  covering  of  soil ;  the  woods  are  thin,  and  the 
surrouuding  country  flat.  The  borders  of  Knee  Lake  pre- 
sent similar  characters  ;  but  in  one  spot  which  was  examined 
on  account  of  its  exhibiting  a  more  luxuriant  growth  of 
trees,  the  soil  was  still  thin,  but  the  subjacent  rock  con- 
sisted of  primitive  greenstone,  with  disseminated  iron 
pyrites.  "  About  half  a  mile  from  the  bend  or  knee  of  the 
lake,"  says  Sir  John  Franklin,  "there  is  a  small  rocky 
island,  composed  of  magnetic  iron  ore,  which  affects  the 
magnetic  needle  at  a  considerable  distance.  Having  re- 
ceived previous  information  respecting  this  circumstance, 
we  watched  our  compasses  carefully,  and  perceived  that  they 
were  affected  at  the  distance  of  three  hundred  yards,  both 
o;i  the  approach  to  and  departure  from  the  rock :  on  de- 
creasing the  distance  they  became  gradually  more  and  more 
unsteady,  and  on  landing  they  were  rendered  useless  ;  and 
it  was  evident  that  the  general  magnetic  influence  was 
totally  overpowered  by  the  local  attraction  of  the  ore. 


GEOLOGY. 


323 


and  varie- 
mse  occur 

nch  of  the 
tio8e  of  the 
BaidofFox 
Bteel  River. 
,e  banks  are 
precipitately 
slevation  of 
,ck  Portage, 
rst  occur  m 
.  channel  of 
This  gneiss 
anc^  contains 
,eds  of  horn- 
Portage  abed 
IS  of  epidote, 
vas  observed* 
mingled  with 
,ck  containing 
,n  Jack  River 
py  Lake)  a  red 
re  low,  with  a 
thin,  and  the 
nee  Lake  pre- 
was  examined 
ant  growth  of 
:.ent  rock  con- 
eminated  iron 
or  knee  of  the 
i  small  rocky 
ich  affects  the 
Having  re- 
_  circumstance, 
ceived  that  they 
^red  yards,  both 
[e  rock :  on  de- 
more  and  more 
id  useless;  and 
influence  was 
,n  of  the  ore. 


Wlicn  Kater's  compass  was  hold  near  to  the  ground,  on  the 
north-west  sido  of  the  island,  the  nnodle  di[)petl  so  much 
that  the  card  could  not  be  made  to  traverse  by  any  iuljust- 
jnent  of  the  hand  ;  but  on  moving  the  same  compass  about 
thirty  yards  to  the  west  part  of  the  islet,  the  needle  became 
horizontal,  traversed  freely,  and  pointed  to  the  magnetic 
north."* 

Wc  arc  indebted  to  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  for  the 
valuable  observation,  that  the  principal  lakes  in  thr.se  north- 
ern quarters  are  interposed  between  the  primitive  rocks  and 
the  secondary  strata  which  lie  to  the  westward  of  them. 
Of  this  Lake  Winipeg  affords  a  good  example.  It  is  a  long 
narrow  sheet  of  water,  bounded  on  its  eastern  side  by  pri;ni- 
tive  rocks,  which  are  mostly  granitic,  while  horizontal  lime- 
stone strata  form  its  more  indented  western  shore. 

The  north  shore  of  Lake  Winipeg  is  formed  into  a 
peninsula  by  Play-Green  Lake  and  Limestone  Bay.  Steep 
cliffs  of  clay  are  here  prevalent,  similar  to  those  which  pre- 
ceded the  gneiss  in  Hill  River,  but  containing  rather  more 
calcareous  matter.  The  beach  is  composed  of  calcareous 
sand,  and  i-agments  of  water-worn  limestone,  of  which 
there  are  two  kinds ;  the  one  yellowish-white,  dull,  with 
conchoidal  fracture  and  translucent  edges  ;  the  other  bluish 
and  yellowish-gray,  dull,  with  an  earthy  fracture  and  opaque. 
D*.  Richardson  did  not  observe  any  rocks  of  the  former  kind 
in  situ  in  this  neighbourhood,  although  cliffs  of  the  latter 
were  apparent  on  the  west  side  of  Limestone  Bay,  and 
continued  to  bound  the  lake  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the 
Saskatchawan,  and  were  reported  to  spread  down  the  whole 
of  its  western  shore. 

The  extension  of  the  limestone  dcposites  of  Lake  Winipeg, 
in  a  westerly  direction,  has  not  been  ascertained,  but  it  has 
been  traced  as  far  up  the  Saskatchawan  as  Carlton  House, 
where  it  is  at  least  280  miles  in  breadth. 

This  limestone  extends  over  a  vast  tract  of  country,  and 
may  in  general  be  characterized  as  compact,  splinty,  and 
yellowish-gray.  It  is  very  testaceous,  and  large  portions 
of  it  are  entirely  composed  of  bivalve  shells.  In  the  journey 
up  the  Saskatchawan  it  was  traced  to  the  Neepewan,  a  dis- 
tance of  300  miles,  where  it  is  either  succeeded  or  covered 

*  Journey  to  the  Shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  p.  36, 


f 


I* 


-<• 


324 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


\i 


i,> 


?i 


■*  \ 


t 


A: 


I 

n 


F 


by  cliffs  of  calcareous  clay.  It  is  probable  that  the  limtf* 
Btone  formation  not  only  ext(3nds  over  a  vast  portion  of  th0 
plains,  but  also  runs  parallel  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  as  far 
as  Mackenzie  River.  Between  it  and  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
rocks  of  the  coal  formation  occur  ;  and  beds  of  burning  coal 
have  been  known  for  many  years  on  the  upper  parts  of  the 
Saskatchawan,  as  well  as  on  the  last-named  river.  One  of 
the  most  marked  characteristics  of  the  limestone  formation 
is  the  entire  exclusion  of  foreign  beds.  It  was  never  ob- 
served in  association  with  any  other  rock,  except,  perhaps, 
on  Elk  River,  where  it  appeared  in  contact  with  compact 
earthy  marl  and  slaggy  mineral-pitch,  or  bituminous  sand- 
stone ;  and  on  Coppermine  River,  where  rolled  fragments 
,  of  a  similar  stone  were  found  connected  with  layers  of  dark 
flinty  slate.  Salt  springs  and  lakes  exist  from  twelve  to 
twenty  miles  to  the  northward  of  Carlton  House. 

In  Athabasca  Lake  Sir  John  Franklin's  party  came  again 
upon  the  edge  of  the  primitive  formation.  Fort  Chipewyan 
seemed  to  stand  upon  a  granite  rock,  and  a  little  to  the 
^^  eastward  a  reddish  granite  is  associated  with  gray  gneiss. 
Granite  is  the  most  abundant  rock  on  Slave  River ;  but  it 
disappears  about  a  mile  and  a  half  below  the  Portage  des 
Noyes,  and  the  banks  from  thence  to  Slave  Lake  are  allu' 
vial.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Yellow  Knife  River,  and  in  Lake 
Prosperous,  mica-slate  prevailed  ;  and  between  Rocky  and 
Carp  Lakes  the  granite  contains  many  beds  of  mica-slate, 
often  passing  into  clay-slate.  Here  the  country  is  tolerably 
wooded,  and  white  spruce  occupy  the  rocky  situations^ 
Pinus  Banksiana  the  sandy  spots,  and  aspen  the  low  moist 
places.* 

At  Carp  Lake  the  hills  are  of  lower  altitude,  the  valleys 
are  less  fertile  and  have  fewer  trees,  and  these  features 
seem  to  characterize  the  commencement  of  the  gneiss  forma- 
tion, which  extends  over  the  great  district  to  the  eastward 
of  the  Coppermine  River,  termed  by  the  Indians  the  Barren 
Grounds.  The  soil  is  inimical  to  almost  every  species  of 
vegetation.  The  summits  of  the  hills  about  Fort  Enterprise 
are  composed  of  a  durable  red  granite,  and  large  masses 
of  tixe  same  substance  are  scattered  over  their  surface.     On 

*  Appendix  to  Franklin's  First  Journey  ta  the  Shores  of  the  Tffim 
Sea,  p.  52vO. 


OEOLOOV. 


325 


nn  nrm  of  Point  Lnkr,  forty-five  niilos  duo  north  of  Fort 
EnterpriHC,  iIh;  rooks  beloiij;  to  the  IrMiiHition  class.  The 
light  blue-coloured  wuters  of  (irt'iit  Uear  I^ake  are  very 
transparent,  more  especiiilly  in  the  vicinity  of  the  primitivo 
mountains  of  M'Tavish  Hiiy.  A  piece  of  white  ra«T,  when 
sunk,  did  not  disappear  till  it  had  descended  to  the  depth  of 
fifteen  fathonis.  Tlu!  surface  of  Hear  Lake  is  not  supposed 
to  be  200  feet  above  the  Arctic  Sen,  and  as  its  depth  is  much 
greater  than  th  it  amount  offset,  its  bottom  mu^t  ('(nisequentiy 
be  below  the  level  of  the  sea.*  At  the  mouth  of  L)(  ase's 
River,  the  hills  are  live  or  six  hundred  ft  et  hiuh,  and  are 
composed  principally,  if  not  entirely,  of  dolomite,  in  hori- 
zontal strata.  The  northern  shores  .:♦"  Hear  Lake  are  low, 
and  skirted  by  numerous  shoals  of  limestone  bouhlers.  At 
the  foot  of  the  Scented  Grass  Hill,  a  rivulet  has  made  a 
section  to  the  depth  of  100  feet,  and  there  shaly  beds  are 
seen  interstr.ititied  with  thin  layers  of  blackish-brown  earthy- 
looking  limestone,  containing  selenite  and  pyrites,  (j lobular 
concretions  of  that  stone,  and  of  a  poor  clay  iron-stone,  also 
occur  in  beds  in  the  shale.  The  surfaces  of  the  slate-clay 
were  covered  by  an  efflorescence  of  alum  and  sulphur,  and 
many  crystals  of  sulphate  of  iron  lie  at  the  bottom  of  the 
clitf,  and  several  layers  of  plumose  alum,  half  an  inch  in 
thickness,  occur  in  the  strata.  At  the  base  of  Great  Bear 
Mountain,  the  bituminous  shale  is  iuterslratified  with  slate- 
clay,  and  Dr.  Hichiirdson  found  imbedded  in  the  former  a 
single  piece  of  brown  coal,  in  which  the  fibrous  structure 
of  wood  is  apparent.! 

On  the  northern  shore  of  Keith  Bay,  about  four  miles 
from  Bear  Lake  River,  stands  Fort  Franklin,  upon  a  small 
terrace,  which  is  elevated  about  thirty  feet  above  the  lake. 
The  bottom  of  the  bay,  wherever  distinguishable,  was  ob- 
served to  be  sandy,  and  thickly  strewed  with  rounded  primi- 
tive boulders  of  great  size,  which  were  particularly  abun- 
dant near  the  river, — ami  the  waters  of  the  cape  formed  by 
Scented  Grass  Hill  were  also  strewed  with  large  square 
blocks  of  limestone.  All  these  boulders  must  have  been 
carried  from  the  parent  rocks  by  a  current  flowing  from  the 

*  In  M'Tavish  Hay,  near  the  shore  of  Great  Slave  I/ike,  forty-five 
fkthoms  of  line  did  not  reach  the  bottom.  Some  of  the  great  lakes  ojT 
Canada  are  supposed  to  descend  300  feet  helow  the  "  Ocean's  brim." 

t  Appendix  to  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  6. 

£a 


/   ■    J 


Ftj 


I 


*^ 


329 


NATURAL   HISTORYr 


east.  Two  varieties  of  granite  which  occur  among  thenv 
were  recognised  as  forming  abundant  rocks  at  Fort  Enter- 
prise, which  lies  about  170  miles  south-east  from  M*Tavish 
Bay.  The  soil  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Franklin  is  sandy  or 
gravelly,  and  covers  to  the  depth  of  one  or  two  feet  a  bed 
of  clay  of  unknown  thickness.  This  clay  continues  firmly 
frozen  during  the  greater  portion  of  the  year,  and  the  thaw 
•eldom  penetrates  more  than  a  couple  of  feet  into  the  sur- 
face of  the  earth. 

Bear  Lake  River  is  about  seventy  miles  long,  from  its 
origin  in  the  lake  till  it  falls  into  the  Mackenzie,  and  its 
breadth  is  never  less  than  150  yards,  except  at  the  rapid. 
Sections  made  by  the  river  generally  present  sand  or  clay, 
— the  former  probably  proceeding  from  the  disintegration 
of  a  friable  gray  sandstone,  which  occasionally  shows  itself 
in  the  more  solid  form.  The  walls  of  the  rapid  are  about 
three  miles  long,  and  120  feet  high.  They  are  composed 
of  horizontal  beds,  the  lower  of  which  consist  of  an  earthy- 
looking  stone,  intermediate  between  slate-clay  and  sand- 
stone, having  interiorly  a  dull  yellowish-gray  colour.  These 
beds  are  separated  by  thin  slaty  layers,  of  a  substance  simi- 
lar in  appearance,  but  harder,  which  contain  impressions 
of  ferns,  and  from  the  debris  at  the  bottom  of  the  cliff  Dr. 
Richardson  gathered  impressions  of  the  bark  of  a  tree 
(lepidodendron)  and  some  ammonites  in  a  brown  iron-shot 
sandstone.  These  are  regarded  by  Mr.  Sowerby  as  of  a 
new  species.  They  contain  sulphate  of  barytes,  and  are 
supposed  to  be  referable  to  some  of  the  oolites  near  the 
Oxford  clay. 

We  may  here  notice  the  remarkable  lignite  formation  of 
Mackenzie  River.  The  formation  which  constitutes  its 
banks  consists  of  wood-coal  in  various  states,  alternating 
with  beds  of  pipe-clay,  potter's  clay  (occasionally  bitumi- 
nous), slate-clay,  gravel,  sand,  and  friable  sandstones,  and 
occasionally  with  porcelain-earth.  These  strata  are  usually 
horizontal,  and  as  many  as  four  beds  of  lignite  are  exposed 
in  some  places,  of  which  the  upper  are  above  the  highest 
river  floods  of  pr<  sent  times.  The  lignite  itself  is  pretty 
compact  when  recently  detached  ;  but  it  soon  splits  into 
rhomboidal  pieces,  separable  into  more  or  less  delicate  slaty 
portions.  When  burnt,  it  produces  little  smoke  or  flame, 
and  leaves  a  brownish-red  residuum,  not  one-tenth  of  the 


GEOLOGY. 


327 


anionsthein 
Fort  Enter- 
ro  M»Tavish 
1  is  sandy  or 
ro  feet  a  bed 
tinues  firmly 
and  the  thaw 
into  the  sur- 

jng,  from  its 
nzie,  and  it» 
at  the  rapid, 
sand  or  clay, 
disintegration 
f  shows  itself 
tpid  are  about 
are  composed 
of  an  earthy- 
ay  and  sand- 
^lour.     These 
abstance  simi- 
n  impressions 
f  the  cliff  Dr. 
ark  of  a  tree 
own  iron-shot 
werby  as  of  a 
rytes,  and  are 
olites  near  the 

e  formation  of 
constitutes  its 
Bs,   alternating 
onally   bitumi- 
andstones,  and 
ata  are  usually 
ite  are  exposed 
►ve  the  highest 
itself  is  pretty 
oon  splits  into 
3S  delicate  slaty 
moke  or  flame, 
ne-tenth  of  the 


t>Tiginal  bulk.  But  the  smell  is  very  fetid,  resemblmg  that 
of  phosphorus.  It  was  found  unfit  for  welding  iron  when 
used  alone,  but  it  sufficed  when  mixed  with  charcoal. 
However,  the  smell  was  still  most  annoying.  A  frequent 
form  of  this  lignite  is  that  of  slate,  of  a  dull  brownish- 
black  colour,  with  a  shining  streak. 

These  remarkable  beds  seem  to  take  fire  spontaneously 
when  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  air.  They  were  found 
burning  by  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie,  when  he  passed 
downwards  in  1 789,  and  are  supposed  to  have  been  on  fire 
ever  since.  Ijarge  slips  of  the  banks  take  place  in  conse- 
quence of  the  destruction  of  the  coal,  and  it  is  only  when 
the  debris  has  been  washed  nway  by  the  river  that  good  sec- 
tions become  visible.  "  The  beds  were  on  fire  when  we 
visited  them ;  and  the  burnt  clay,  vitrified  sand,  aggluti- 
nated gravel.  Sec.  gave  many  spots  the  appearance  of  an  old 
brick-field."* 

The  pipe-clay  is  also  sufficiently  singular  to  deserve  a 
special  notice.  It  occurs  in  beds  from  six  inches  to  a  foot 
in  thickness,  and  chiefly  in  contact  with  tbe  lignite.  Its 
colour  is  yellowish-white ;  in  some  places,  however,  it  is 
light  lake-red.  It  is  used  by  the  natives  as  an  article  of 
food  in  times  of  scarcity,  and  is  said  to  be  capable  of  sus- 
taining  life  for  a  considerable  time.  It  is  known  to  the 
traders  under  the  name  of  while  mud.  They  wash  their 
houses  with  it. 

The  alluvial  islands  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie 
separate  the  various  branches  of  that  great  river.  These 
islands  are  either  partially  or  entirely  flooded  in  the  spring ; 
their  centres  are  depressed,  and  are  either  marshy  or  occu- 
pied by  a  lake.  Their  borders,  however,  are  more  elevated, 
and  are  well  clothed  by  white  spruce-trees.  These,  and 
whatever  other  trees  are  produced  in  the  islands,  suddenly 
cease  to  grow  about  liititude  68°  40'. 

The  famous  Copper  Mountains,  so  called,  consist  prin- 
cipally of  trap  rocks,  which  seemed  to  Dr.  Richardson  to 
be  imposed  upon  the  new  red  sandstone,  or  the  floetz  lime- 
stone which  covers  it.  They  rise  to  a  height  of  eight  or 
nine  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  and  present 
a  softish  outline  at  a  distance  ;  but  on  a  nearer  view  they 

*  Appendix  to  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  18. 


[111 


828 


NATTTRAL   HISTORY. 


n 


I 


( 


seem  composed  of  ridges,  many  of  which  have  precipitous 
sides.  The  summits  are  stony  and  uneven.  The  largest 
pieces  of  copper  are  found  associated  with  prehnite,  and  the 
Indians  are  careful  to  search  for  ore  wherever  they  observe 
pieces  of  the  last-named  mineral  lying  on  the  surface.  The 
original  repository  or  vein  of  copper  ore  does  not  appear  to 
have  been  hitherto  observed  ;  but  judging  from  specimens 
picked  up  by  our  overland  expeditions!,  it  most  probably 
traverses  felspathose  trap.  Ice-chisels  have  been  observed 
in  the  possession  of  the  Esquimaux  measuring  twelve  or 
fourteen  inches  long,  and  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  formed 
of  pure  copper. 

Another  range  of  trap  hills  occurs  at  the  distance  of 
ten  miles  to  the  northward  of  the  Copper  Mountains.  This 
range  is  about  twenty  miles  from  the  Arctic  Sea,  and  be- 
yond it  the  country  is  very  level,  with  a  subsoil  of  light 
brownish-red  sandstone.  These  desolate  plains  nourish 
only  a  coarse  short  grass,  and  the  trees,  which  had  previously 
dwindled  to  scraggy  clumps,  entirely  disappear. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine  River  there  occurs  a 
low  ridge  of  greenstone ;  and  from  thence  to  Bloody  Fall, 
which  is  a  distance  of  about  ten  miles,  the  country  is  very 
level,  with  the  exception  of  some  ridges  of  trap,  by  which 
it  is  traversed.  The  channel  of  the  river  is  sunk  nearly 
150  feet  below  the  level  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  is 
bounded  by  cliffs  of  yellowish-white  sand,  and  sometimes 
of  clay,  beneath  which  beds  of  greensstone  occasionally 
crop  out. 

The  islands  in  this  quarter  of  the  Arctic  Sea  are  invari- 
ably rocky.  They  present  a  remarkable  uniformity  of  ap- 
pearance, and  are  very  generally  bounded  by  mural  preci- 
pices of  trap-rock  clinkstone  or  claystone.  But  the  main 
shore  presents  a  greater  diversity.  For  sixty  miles  east- 
ward of  Coppermine  River,  the  beach  is  low  and  gravelly, 
but  towards  Tree  River  the  trap  rocks  reappear  and  form  a 
steril  and  rocky  coast.  At  P«)rt  Epworth  the  valleys  were 
stony,  and  almost  entirely  destitute  of  herbage.  The  rocks 
(^served  were  liver-brown  clinkstone  porphyry,  with  a  few 
beds  of  earthy  greenstone,  and  the  same  formation  extends 
to  the  mouth  of  Wentzel's  River,  to  the  eastward  of  which 
a  projection  of  the  coast  forms  Cape  Barrow.  When  Dr. 
Richardson  rounded  this  cape  the  weather  was  extremely 


GEOLOGY, 


329 


foggy,  but  the  rocks  CTamined  consisted  of  a  beautiful  ad- 
mixture of  red  and  gray  granite,  forming  steop  and  craggy 
peaks  which  rose  abruptly  from  the  water  to  the  height  of 
1500  feet.  At  Detention  Harbour  the  granite  hills  termi- 
nate abruptly,  or  recede  from  the  coast,  giving  place  to  less 
elevated  strata  of  gneiss,  in  which  beds  of  red  granite  are 
enclosed.  A  vein  of  galena  was  observed  running  through 
the  gneiss  for  two  hundred  yards  at  the  spot  named  in  con- 
sequence Galena  Point.*  A  mass  of  indurated  iron-shot 
slaty  clay  occurs  on  the  western  point  of  Moore's  Bay,  and 
the  promontory  which  forms  the  eastern  side  of  that  bay  is 
composed  of  trap  rocks  and  claystone  porphyry,  whose 
mural  precipices  constitute  the  sides  of  narrow  valleys, 
opening  at  either  end  towards  the  sea.  An  iron-shot  clink- 
fitone  porphyry,  with  a  columnar  aspect,  prevails  from 
Moore's  Bay  to  the  entrance  of  Arctic  Sound.  The  eastern 
shore  of  that  sound  is  covered  with  grass,  and  scarcely  ex- 
hibits any  naked  rock ;  but  the  clinkstone  porphyry  reap- 
pears on  Bankes's  Peninsula,  along  with  an  earthy-looking 
greenfiu.  '^',  and  forms  as  usual  parallel  ranges  of  mural 
precipic"  i'^n  Barry's  Island  the  trap  rocks  form  cliffs  from 
50  to  •  et  high,   superimposed  on  thick  beds  of  in- 

durated ciay  or  marl.  A  red  amygdaloidal  rock,  containing 
beautiful  pebbles  of  carnelian,  chalcedony,  and  imbedded 
jaspers,  was  observed  on  the  north  side  of  the  island. 

Trap  rocks,  for  the  most  part  greenstone,  and  sandstone 
of  the  new  red  formation,  characterize  Sir  James  Gordon's 
Bay ;  but  to  the  north  of  Fowler's  Bay  the  gneiss  reap- 
pears, with  beds  of  granite  and  hornblende  gneiss.  Hex- 
agonal crystals  of  hornblende,  above  a  foot  long,  were  ob- 
served imbedded  in  the  gneiss  near  Point  Evritt,  and  the 
islands  in  the  offing  consisted  as  usual  of  floetz  trap  or  por- 
phyry. Cape  Croker  is  composed  of  red  sandstone,  of 
which  the  debris  forms  a  shelving  and  utterly  barren  shore. 
Grayish-white  sandstone,  associated  with  or  passing  into 
slaty-clay,  was  visible  on  the  northern  shore  of  Melville 
Sound,  wherever  the  barren  clayey  sand  was  washed  away. 
Cliffs  of  greenstone,  or  of  clay-stone  porphyry,  superim- 
posed on  the  flat  strata,  presented  the  appearance  of  islands, 
nvhen  seen  from  the  opposite  coast,  as  our  exploring  partjr 

*  Appendix  to  Franltlin's  Fint  Journey,  p.  531. 
£c2 


330 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


entered  the  sound,  and  had  the  low  connecting  land  been 
then  visible,  a  tedious  and  unnecessary  circumnavigation 
of  the  sound  itself  would  have  been  saved.  The  coast  ex- 
hibited the  same  appearance  as  far  as  Point  Turnngain,  the 
mo«t  eastern  point  attained  by  the  overland  expeditions. 

On  a  general  view,  it  appears  that  the  new  red  sandstone 
formation  prevails  along  those  portions  of  the  North  Ame- 
rican Arctic  shores.  "All  the  islands  visited,"  says  Dr. 
Richardson,  "were  formed  of  trap  or  porphyry  belonging 
to  that  formation  ;  and,  jndging  from  similarity  of  form, 
the  rocks  of  the  other  islands  belong  to  the  same  class. 
The  gneiss  formation  is  next  in  extent ;  and,  indeed,  it 
appears  to  run  nearly  parallel  to  the  coast  withiii  the  red 
sandstone  from  Cape  Barrow,  across  Hood's  River  above 
Wilberforce  Falls,  to  the  bottom  of  Bathurst's  Inlet,  and 
from  thence  to  Hope's  Bay,  on  the  western  side  of  Melville 
Sound.  The  only  foreign  lieds  we  observed  in  the  gneiss 
were  granite,  perhaps  quartz-rock  and  hornblendic  gneiss  or 
syenite.  We  saw  no  clay  or  mica-slate,  nor  did  we  observe 
any  formations  intermediate  between  the  gneiss  and  new 
red  sandstone ;  nor,  except  at  Cape  Barrow,  where  jjranite 
predominates,  any  other  formation  than  the  two  just  men- 
tioned. Our  opportunities  for  observation,  however,  were 
not  extensive ;  the  necessity  of  proceeding  without  delay 
limiting  xjur  botanical  and  geognostical  excursions  to  the 
short  period  that  was  required  to  prepare  breakfast  or 
supper."* 

From  Point  Tiirnagain  the  party  proceeded  to  Hood's 
River,  which  they  traced  to  some  distance.  Near  its  mouth 
that  river  is  from  100  to  300  yards  in  width,  and  is  bounded 
by  steep  high  banks  of  clay,  reposing  on  floetz  rocks.  At 
Wilberforce  Falls,  which  are  six  or  seven  miles  above  the 
second  rapid,  the  river  makes  a  striking  descent  of  about 
250  feet  into  a  chasm,  the  walls  of  which  consist  of  light- 
red  felspathose  sandstone,  belonging,  as  Dr.  Richardson 
supposes,  to  the  old  red  sandstone  formation,  or  that  which 
lies  under  coal,  and  occasionally  alternates  with  transition 
rocks.'t  A  short  distance  above  these  falls  the  gneiss^  forma- 
tion appears,  and  produces  hills  precisely  similar  to  those 
about  Fort  Enterprise.     On  quitting  Hood's  River  our  ex- 


*  Appendix  to  Franklin's  First  Journey,  p.  533.  f  Ibid.  p.  £f3^ 


4 


GEOLOGY. 


331 


ploring  party  ascended  from  the  valley  through  which  it 
flows,  and  entered  upon  an  even,  clayey,  and  very  barren 
district,  partially  covered  by  shallow  lakes.  This  plain 
Country  continued  nearly  as  far  as  Cracroft's  River,  where 
the  gneiss  reappeared,  and  presented  those  bleak  hills  and 
precipices  so  characteristic  of  the  Barren  Grounds.  The 
gneiss  formation  was  observed  to  continue  without  essential 
change  to  Obstruction  Rapid,  between  Providence  and 
Point  Lakes,  where  it  united  with  the  Fort  Enterprise  dis- 
trict formerly  alluded  to. 

The  preceding  geognostical  details,  and  others  into  the 
consideration  of  which  we  Cannot  here  enter,  render  it  ap- 
parent that  the  general  distribution  and  connexion  of  the 
hills  and  mountain-masses  of  these  northern  regions  are 
nearly  the  same  as  geologists  have  observed  to  characterize 
similar  materials  in  other  portions  of  the  earth.  The 
primitive  rocks  occur  in  their  usual  relations ;  and  gneiss, 
attended  by  an  extremely  scanty  vegetation,  appears  to  be 
the  most  extensively  distributed.  Granite  was  the  next  in 
frequency  ;  after  which  may  be  placed  mica-slate.  Clay- 
slate  and  protogine  were  the  least  abundant.  The  granite 
of  Cape  Barrow  was  intersected  by  veins  of  augite  green- 
stone of  the  same  description  as  those  which  occur  in  the 
granite  districts  of  Great  Britain,  and  the  primitive  rocks  in 
general  were  found  to  be  traversed  by  veins  of  felspar, 
quartz,  and  granite. 

The  transition  rocks,  consisting  principally  of  clay-slate 
and  graywacke,  bore  a  strong  resemblance  to  those  in 
Dumfries-shire, — a  fact  which  did  not  fail  to  attract  the 
attention  of  Dr.  Richardson,  himself  a  native  of  that  dis- 
trict. 

In  regard  to  the  secondary  formations,  the  facts  observed 
"by  Dr.  Richardson  show  the  existence — First,  Of  the  cid 
red  sandstone,  or  that  which  lies  under  coal,  and  occasionally 
alternates  with  transition  rocks  :  Second,  Of  the  coal  form- 
ation, which  was  ascertained  to  occur  in  certain  districts  of 
Mackenzie  River,  and  towards  the  Rocky  Mountains  :  Third, 
Of  the  new  red  or  variegated  sandstone,  an  important  form- 
ation of  considerable  extent,  which  contained,  as  it  is  known 
to  do  in  the  Old  World,  gypsum  and  beds  of  salt,  or  of 
inuriatiferous  clay,  affording  saline  materials  for  the  im- 


r 
I 


^'V 


i 


333 


NATtHAL   HISTORY. 


pregnations  of  the  salt  springs  which  issue  from  it :  Fourth^ 
Of  the  secondary  limestone  belonging  to  that  vast  deposite 
which  lies  above  the  new  red  sandstone,  and  beneath  chalk, 
and  which  occupies  extensive  tracts  in  Britain  and  other 
parts  of  Europe  :  Fifth,  Of  the  secondary  trap  and  porphyry 
rocks,  in  the  composition  and  character  of  which  one  of  the 
most  interesting  features  is  undoubtedly  the  frequent  oc- 
currence of  native  copper,  both  among  the  Copper  Moun< 
tains  themselves,  and  along  the  Arctic  shore. 

The  alluvial  deposites  consist,  as  usual,  of  sand,  gravel, 
rolled  blocks,  boulder-stones,  and  the  debris  of  various 
rocks.  We  may  conclude  by  observing,  in  the  words  of  Dr. 
Richardson,  to  whom  we  are  deeply  indebted  for  the  inform- 
ation presented  in  this  volume,  that  the  foregoing  details 
make  it  manifest  "  that  in  the  regions  we  traversed  the  rocks 
of  the  primitive,  transition,  secondary,  and  alluvial  classes 
have  the  same  ffeneral  composition,  structure,  position,  and 
distribution  as  in  other  parts  of  America  which  have  been 
examined;  and  as  these  agree  in  all  respects  with  the 
rock  formations  in  Europe  and  Asia,  they  may  with  pro- 
priety be  considered  as  universal  formations — parts  of  a 
grand  and  harmonious  whole — the  production  of  Infinite 
Wisdom." 


ii 


^*  Stand  still  and  behold  the  wondrous  works  or 
God, — THE  wondrous    works  of  him  vvhich  is  perfect 

IN    knowledge." 

^Remember  that  thou  magnify  his  work  which  mbn 
BEHOLD.  Every  man  may  see  it  ;  men  may  behold  it 
afar  off." 

*'  O  Lord,  how  manifold  are  thy  works  !  in  wisdom 

HAST   thou    made  THEM     ALL  !    THE     EARTH  IS  FOLL    OF   THY 
RICHES." 

"  Before  the  mountains  were  brought  forth,  or 
ever  thou  hadst  formed  the  earth  and  the  world, 
£v£n  from  sverlasting  to  everlasting,  thou  art  gon.** 


APPENDIX. 


REMARKS 


ON 

A  LATE  MEMOIR  OF  SEBASTIAN  CABOT, 

WITH  ▲ 

VINDICATION  OF  RICHARD  HAKLUYT. 


'  "  Floreat  Historia  Britannica,  recordis  authenticisque  expromatar. 
Scribatur  lente  mature,  ordinate,  sincere,  dilucide,  sine  partium  studio, 
nne  pravo  eonsilio,  sineomni  vili  affectu  virin  iiteratis  iiidigno." — Madux, 
Discepfatio  Epistolaris  De  Magna  Rotulo  Scaccarii. 


The  reader  is  already  aware,  that  in  the  present  volume 
the  discovery  of  North  America,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VII., 
has  been  exclusively  ascribed  to  John  Cabot,  a  Venetian, 
who  had  settled  as  a  merchant  at  Bristol.  The  author  of  a 
late  work*  has  attributed  this  noted  extension  of  geographi- 
cal knowledge  solely  to  the  subject  of  his  biography,  Sebas- 
tian Cabot,  the  son  of  John.  According  to  him,  it  was  Se- 
bastian who  projected  the  expedition  in  which  the  discovery 
was  made, — it  was  Sebastian  who  conducted  the  expedition, 
— ^it  is  doubtful  whether  John  Cabot  accompanied  the  voyage 
at  all,  and  it  is  certain,  if  he  did,  it  was  simply  as  a  merchant 
who  traded  on  his  capital.  The  biographer  has  brought  for- 
ward his  arguments  in  support  of  this  theory,  in  the  fifth 
chapter  of  his  work,  entitled  Comparative  Agency  of  John 

*  Memoir  of  Sebastian  Cabot. 


\i' 


1 

1 

U 

834 


APPENDIX. 


\     r 


and  Sebastian  Cabot ;  and  it  if  'n  the  course  of  these  argfU- 
ments  that  he  has  made  an  attack  upon  the  integrity  and 
honesty  of  Richard  Hakluyt,  a  writer  to  whom  the  history 
of  maritime  discovery  is  under  the  deepest  obligations.  These 
two  points,  therefore, — the  discovery  of  North  America,  and 
the  credit  due  to  the  evidence  of  Hakluvt, — must  necessarily 
be  considered  in  conjunction  ;  auJ  we  trust  we  shall  con- 
vince every  impartial  reader  of  the  accuracy  of  our  assertion, 
that  John  Cabot  was  the  discoverer,  and  that  the  attack 
upon  Hakluyt  is  perfectly  unfounded. 

Before,  however,  proceeding  to  the  more  immediate  sub- 
ject of  inquiry,  we  may  be  permitted  to  say,  that  although 
It  becomes  our  duty  to  point  out  repeated  and  material  errors, 
and  in  some  instances  considerable  injustice  committed  by 
the  biographer  of  Cabot,  we  are  anxious  to  avoid  that  pe- 
culiar  asperity  which  he  has  unnecessarily  mingled  with  a 
subject  80  remote  that  it  may  surely  be  approached  in  a 
spirit  of  great  calmness  and  impartiality.  We  wish  to  em- 
ploy no  expression  which  may  give  a  moment's  unnecessary 
pain  to  the  biographer.  His  Memoir  of  Cabot,  as  may  be 
seen  from  the  references  to  it  in  the  course  of  this  volume, 
has  been  frequently  of  use  to  us.  Although  rather  a  piece 
of  biographical  and  historic  criticism  than  a  pure  biogra- 
phy, it  is  a  meritorious  woi  it  points  out  to  the  reader 
some  recondite  sources  of  information,— its  deductions  and 
arguments  are  often  acute  and  ingenious, — and,  confused 
and  deficient  as  it  is  in  its  arrangement,  it  contains  occa- 
sional passages  which  are  eloquently  written.  But  it  is  im- 
possible not  to  regret  that  there  is  infused  into  the  whole 
book  a  more  than  ordinary  proportion  of  that  bitter  and 
querulous  spirit  which,  in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  seems 
inseparable  from  the  lucubrations  of  the  antiquary, — that 
the  author  has  poured  abuse,  contempt,  and  ridicule  upon 
those  who  have  fallen  into  errors  which  he  sometimes  has, 
and  at  other  times  imagines  he  has,  detected, — and  that  he 
is  unscrupulous  in  imputing  unfair  and  ungenerous  motives 
to  those  who  little  deserve  such  an  accusation.  Robertson, 
Forster,  Henry,  Campbell,  Southey,  Barrow,  and  other  able 
writei's,  are  attacked  in  unmeasured  terms,  as  the  arch  pro- 
pagators of  all  that  is  erroneous  and  superficial  on  the  sub- 
ject of  maritime  discovery  ;  and  our  excellent  friend  Rich- 
ard Hakluyt,  who  has  slept  in  an  honoured  grave  for  upwards 


■     r         '9 


VINDICATION    OF   HAKLVYT 


335 


n 

'<'i 


these  argu- 
legrity  and 
the  history 
ans.  These 
merica,  and 
necessarily 
B  shall  con- 
ir  assertion, 
t  the  attack 

nediate  sub- 
lat  although 
iterial  errors, 
onimitted  by 
roid  that  pe- 
ngled  with  a 
reached  in  a 
;  wish  to  em- 
( unnecessary 
3t,  as  may  be 
f  this  volume, 
rather  a  piece 
a  pure  biogra- 
I  to  the  reader 
eductions  and 
and,  confused 
ontains  occa- 
But  it  is  im- 
nto  the  whole 
lat  bitter  and 
legree,  seems 
;iquary, — that 
idicule  upon 
tmetimes  has, 
and  that  he 
erous  motives 
Robertson, 
md  other  able 
the  arch  pro- 
|al  on  the  sub- 
i  friend  Rich- 
e  for  upwards 


of  two  centuries,  is  resuscitated  to  be  treated  only  with  more 
unsparing  severity.  We  proceed  now  to  the  discussion  of  the 
point  in  question, — Who  discovered  North  America  1  The 
fact,  then,  that  it  was  John  Cabot  who  projected,  fitted 
out,  and  conducted  the  expedition  by  which  this  discovery 
was  made  rests  on  evidence  so  conclusive,  that  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  imagine  how  any  impartial  inquirer  can  resist  its 
force. 

Firstf  There  is  the  original  commission  or  letters-patent 
in  Rymer,  vol.  xii.  p.  595,  in  which  Joh7i  Cabot  is  evidently 
the  principal  person  intrusted  with  the  undertaking.  His 
three  sons,  Lewis,  Sebastian,  and  Sanchez,  are  indeed  in- 
cluded with  him  in  the  patent  ;  but  it  is  allowed  on  all 
hands  that  neither  Lewis  nor  Sanchez  accompanied  the 
voyage,  and  Sebastian,  although  he  undoubtedly  went  along 
with  his  father,  could  not  then  have  been  more  than  twenty, 
—an  age  excluding  the  idea  of  his  either  originating  or  con- 
ducting the  enterprise. 

Secondly y  We  have  the  language  of  the  second  patent, 
dated  the  3d  February,  1498,  in  which  the  letters  are  di- 
rected to  John  Cabot  alone^  and  he  is  empowered  to  sail  with 
his  ships  to  the  land  and  isles  of  late  found  by  the  saidJohn^ 
in  the  king's  name  and  commandment, — a  piece  of  evidence 
which,  even  if  it  stood  single  and  unsupported,  appears  to 
be  decisive  of  the  question. 

Thirdly^  We  have  the  inscription  under  the  contemporary 
portrait  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  painted  by  Holbein,  in  which 
he  is  described  as  the  son  of  the  Venetian,  Sir  John  Cabot, 
who  was  the  first  discoverer  of  the  New  Land,  "  Primi  In- 
ventoris  TerraB  Novae  sub  Henrico  VIL,  Angliee  Rege  ;'* 
and  in  the 

Fourth  placcy  A  proof  of  the  same  fact  is  to  be  found  in 
the  inscription  by  Clement  Adams  upon  the  Map  of  America 
which  he  engraved  after  a  drawing  of  Sebastian  Cabot's, 
and  in  the  lifetime  of  this  navigator.  In  this  inscription, 
as  already  more  minutely  pointed  out,*  the  principal  place 
is  given  to  the  lather,  John  Cabot,  and  the  son  is  mentioned, 
as  It  appears  to  us,  not  as  commanding  the  ships  or  having 
originated  the  voyage,  but  simply  as  accompanying  the  ex- 
pedition. 

*  Supra,  p.  10, 17. 


■^ 


k 

1    .  >  J 


336 


APPENDIX. 


f 


Having  ;Bfone  thus  far,  we  are  now  ready  to  enter  upon 
the  investigation  of  the  nrguinents  urged  by  the  biographer 
in  favour  of  the  claim  which  he  has  set  up  for  Sebastian  as 
the  sole  discoverer ;  and  here  we  may  remark,  that  in  the 
classification  of  his  evidence  he  has  followed  a  method 
ivhich  is  certainly  not  the  best  calculated  for  the  manifesta- 
tion of  truth.  He  first  arranges  what  he  denominates  the 
proofs  in  support  of  the  father  ;  but  those  which  he  enu- 
merates Jirstf  and  which  alone  he  discusses  with  minute 
attention,  are  the  weakest  that  could  be  selected,  and  such 
88  no  one  who  carefully  weighs  them  would  place  much  re- 
liance on  ;  while  the  unnnswerable  evidence  is  brought  in 
last  with  extreme  brevity,  and  dismissed  with  scarce  any 
observation. 

"  The  various  items  of  evidence,"  says  he,  "  which  are 
supposed  to  establish  the  prevailing  personal  agency  of 
John  Cabot,  may  be  ranked  thus  : — 

"1.  The  dieged  statement  of  Robert  Fabyan. 

"  2.  The  language  of  more  recent  writers  as  to  the  char- 
acter of  the  father. 

"  3.  The  appearance  of  his  name  in  the  map  cut  by 
Clement  Adams,  and  also  in  the  patents. 

"  As  to  the  first,"  he  continues,  "  the  authority  usually 
referred  to  is  found  in  Hakluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  9, — '  A  rote  of 
Sebastian  Cabot's  first  discoverie  of  part  of  the  Indies,  taken 
out  of  the  latter  part  of  Robert  Fabyan's  Chronicle,  not 
hitherto  printed,  which  is  in  the  custodie  of  M.  John  Stow, 
a  diligent  preserver  of  antiquities.  In  the  13  yeere  of  K. 
Henry  the  7  (by  meanes  of  one  John  Cabot,  a  Venetian, 
which  made  himselfe  very  expert  and  cunning  in  the  know- 
ledge of  the  circuit  of  the  world,  and  islands  of  the  same, 
as  by  a  sea-card  and  other  demonstrations  reasonable  he 
shewed),  the  king  caused  to  man  and  victuall  a  ship  at  Bris- 
tow,  to  search  for  an  island  which  he  said  he  knew  well 'was 
rich,  and  replenished  with  great  commodities  ;  which  shippe, 
thus  manned  and  victualled,  at  the  king's  costs,  divers 
merchants  of  London  ventured  in  her  small  stocks,  being  in 
her,  as  chief  patron,  the  said  Venetian.  And  m  the  com- 
pany of  the  said  ship,  suiled  also  out  of  Bristow,  three  or 
foure  small  ship:?,  fraught  with  sleight  and  grosse  marchan- 
dises,  as  course  cloth,  caps,  laces,  points,  and  other  trifles, 


VINDICATION    OF    HAKLUYT. 


837 


enter  upon 
biographer 
jebastian  as 
that  in  the 
1  a  method 
e  manifesta- 
minates  the 
iich  he  enu- 
with  minute 
ed,  and  such 
ice  much  re- 
3  brought  in 
,h  scarce  any 

"  which  are 
d  agency  of 

fin. 

3  to  the  char- 
map  cut   by 

lority  usually 

'  A  rote  of 

.  Indies,  taken 
;^hronicle,  not 
.  John  Stow, 
3  yeere  of  K. 
,,  a  Venetian, 
in  the  know- 
of  the  same, 
•easonable  he 
.  ship  at  Bris- 
new  well 'was 
[which  shippe, 
costs,  divers 
[ocks,  being  in 
in  the  com- 
,ow,  three  or 
isse  marchan- 
other  trifl«s> 


and  80  departed  from  Bristow  in  the  beginning  of  May,  of 
whom,  in  this  maior's  time,  returned  t»o  tidings.'  " 

This  is  the  passage  which  the  author  of  the  Memoir  has 
accused  Hakluyt  of  perverting ;  and,  instead  of  giving  it 
simply  as  it  was  furnished  by  Stow, — of  interpolating  tho 
name  of  John  Cabot.  Nor  is  it  difTicuk  to  see  how  he  was 
led  to  make  this  accusation.  It  was  necessary,  in  support 
of  his  views,  to  show  that  this  alleged  statement  of  Fal»yan 
contained  no  allusion  to  John,  but  actually  supported  the 
claim  of  Sebastian  Cabot :  but  this  could  not  be  done  if 
Hakluyt  has  given  it  fairly ;  and  in  this  way  the  biogra- 
pher, animated  with  zeal  for  his  theory,  was  imperceptibly 
drawn  on  to  attack  the  integrity  of  this  writer.  Now,  be- 
fore considering  so  grave  an  accusation  against  Hakluyt, 
we  have  one  introductory  remark  to  make  upon  this  quota- 
tion from  I'^abyan.  It  is  certain  that  it  alludes  to  the  second 
voyage  made  to  North  America  by  Sebastian  Cabot,  in  the 
year  1498,  and  not  to  the  first,  in  which  that  country  was 
discovered.  Of  this  the  passage  contains  internal  evidence 
which  is  perfectly  conclusive.  The  first  voyage  took  place 
in  the  twelfth  year  of  Henry  VII.  This  in  the  thirteenth. 
The  first  voyage  was  at  the  sole  expense  of  the  adventurers* 
Of  this  the  king  bore  the  expense.  The  first  voyage  could 
allude  to  no  former  discovery.  This  alludes  to  an  island 
which  had  been  already  discovered.  To  quote  the  passage, 
therefore,  as  evidence  in  favour  of  John  Cabot's  discovery, 
which  has  certainly  been  done  by  some  modern  writers, 
argues  a  rapid  and  superficial  examination  of  its  contents. 
Certamly  Hakluyt  does  not  cite  it  with  this  view  ;  but  in- 
cludes it,  on  the  contrary,  amor  g  those  portions  of  evidence, 
those  testimonies,  as  he  calls  them,  in  which  the  sole  glory 
of  the  earliest  voyage  to  North  America  is  given  to  Sebastian 
Cabot.*  All  this  may  be  true,  says  the  memorialist,  but  it 
does  not  exculpate  Hakluyt.  I  do  not  accuse  him  of  citing 
the  passage  as  a  proof  in  favour  of  John  Cabot — but  of 
altering  it  so  as  to  mislead  other  authors  :  he  has  "  per- 
verted" the  passage,  and  has  suffered  the  evidence  of  his 
"  guilty  deed"  to  lie  ".bout,  so  as  to  furnish  the  means  of 
his  own  conviction.  Such  is  the  charge  advanced  against 
Hakluyt ;  and  never,  we  will  venture  to  say,  was  there  a 

*  Hakluyt'8  Voyages,  edition  1600,  vol.  iii.  p.  4-9,  inclasive. 

Ff 


m 


h^ 


\l 


( 

i  ( 


h< 


338 


APPENDIX. 


more  unfoumleil  accuHntion,  ns  will  nppenr  when  it  comet 
to  bo  examined,  ami  yet  the  argument  of  the  biogra})her  if 
ingenious,  and  it  recjuires  some  attention  to  detect  its  fallacy. 
The  object  in  the  whole  matter,  it  will  be  observed,  was 
twofold  ;  first,  to  show  that  Robert  Fabyan,  a  contemporary 
author,  ascribes  the  discovery  of  North  America  to  Seba8« 
tian,  and  not  to  John  Cabot ;  nnd,  secondly,  to  prove  that  Hak- 
luyt  has  been  guilty  of  dishonestly  perverting  the  passage 
from  Fabyan  communicated  to  him  by  Stow  the  antiquary. 
How  then  does  he  accomplish  this?  In  the  first  place,  he 
goes  to  the  earliest  wt)rk  of  Ilnkluyt,  published  in  1582, 
where  this  writer  gives  for  the  first  time  the  following  note 
as  to  the  discovery,  which  we  quote  verbatim  from  the  work 
itself,  now  lying  on  our  table  : — 

*♦  A  Note  of  Sedasti.in  Gabote's  Voyage  of  Discoverie, 
taken  out  of  an  old  Chronicle  written  by  Robert  FABIA^, 
some  time  Alderman  of  liondon,  which  is  in  the  custodie 
of  John  Stow,  citizen,  a  diligent  searcher  and  preserver 
of  antiquities. 

In  the  13  Tnrs  yeere  the  king  (by  means  of  a  Venetian 
^na^Henrie  ^''''^'^  made  himselfe  very  expert  and  cunning 
the  VII.  in  knowledge  of  the  circuite  of  the  worlde,  and 
1498.  islands  of  the    same,  as  by  a  carde  and  other 

demonstrations  reasonable  hee  shewed)  caused  to  man  and 
victuall  a  shippe  at  Bristowe,  to  searche  for  an  ilande, 
whiche  hee  saide  hee  knewe  well  was  riche,  and  replenished 
with  riche  commodities.  Which  ship,  thus  manned  and 
victualled  at  the  kinge's  cost*,  divers  merchants  of  London 
ventured  in  her  small  stockes,  being  in  her,  as  chiefe  patrone, 
the  said  Venetian,  and  in  the  companie  of  the  said  shippe, 
sayled  also  out  of  Bristowe  three  or  foure  small 
ships  fraught  with  sleight  and  grosse  merchan- 
dizes, as  course  cloth,  caps,  laces,  points,  and  other  trifles, 
Wm.  Pur-  ^"'^  ^^^  departed  from  Bristowe  in  the  beginning 
chasl  Maior  of  May,  of  whom,  in  this  Maior's  time,  returned 
of  London,     no  tidings." 

Having  given  this  quotation  from  Hakluyt*s  publication 
of  1582,  the  writer  of  the  life  next  turns  to  the  larger  work 
of  the  same  author,  published  in  1589,  and  he  discovers 


Bristow. 


VINDICATION   OP   HAKLUTT. 


830 


n  it  comet 

tit 8  fallacy. 

serveJ,  wa» 
nitempornTy 
;a  to  Scbas- 
vethatHak- 
the  passage 
,e  antiquary. 
T9t  place,  he 
led  in  1582, 
)llowing  note 
ora  the  work 


)f  DiBCOverie, 
BERT  Fabian, 
n  the  custodie 
and  preserver 


of  a  Venetian 
and  cunning 
e  ^worlde,  and 
irde  and  other 
;d  to  man  and 
I  for  an  ilande, 
nd  replenished 
I  manned  and 
ints  of  London 
Ichiefe  patrone, 
L  said  8hippe» 
|or  foure  small 
•osse  merchan- 
1  other  trifles, 
the  beginning 
itime,  returned 


♦s  publication 

le  larger  work 

he  discover* 


that  ho  has  added  to  the  nentence,  as  it  stood  in  1582,  the 
words  "  one  John  Cabot."  The  passage  in  the  narrHtive 
of  1589  stands  thus  : — "  In  the  13  yeero  of  King  Henrie 
the  VII.  by  means  of  one  John  Cabot,  a  Vcnetiiin,  which 
made  himself  very  expert,"  &c.,  the  rest  of  the  sentence 
being  the  same  as  in  1582.  Here  then,  says  he,  is  munitest 
interpolation  and  dishonesty  ;  the  original  passage  from 
Fabyan  has  been  altered  ;  Hakluyt,  in  15S9,  does  not  give 
it  in  the  same  terms  as  in  l.')82.  Before,  however,  arriving 
at  so  strong  and  uncharitable  a  conclusion,  it  must  strike 
every  reader  that  the  original  passage,  either  is  it  stands  in 
Fabyan,  or  as  it  stood  in  the  extract  furnished  by  Stow  from 
Fabyan,  ought  to  be  carefully  examined.  Till  the  j/ussa^e, 
as  it  is  given  by  Hakluyt,  is  compared  with  on.  or  otli-  rof 
these,  it  is  perfectly  evident  that  no  charge  of  alteration  or 
interpolation  can  be  made  good  against  him.  Now,  the 
original  chronicle  of  Ffibyan,  from  which  Stow  too'^  the 
passage,  is  lost — and  the  biographer  does  not  pretem,  ii,at 
he  has  discovered  in  the  manutiicripts  of  Hakluyt  the  original 
passage,  as  extracted  by  Stow,  and  sent  to  this  writer— 
but  he  endeavours  to  supply  it  in  a  very  sinijular  manner. 
In  speaking  of  Hakluyt's  alleged  perversion  of  the  passage, 
as  sent  by  Stow,  he  observes  : — "  Fortunately,  we  are  not 
left  to  mere  conjecture.  In  1605  appeared  Stovv'a  own 
*  Annals.'  The  simplicity  and  good  faith  of  this  writer  are 
so  well  known,  as  well  as  his  intense  reverence  for  what- 
ever bore  the  stamp  of  antiquity,  that  we  have  no  fear  of 
his  having  committed  what  in  his  eyes  would  have  been 
sacrilege,  by  changing  one  syllable  of  the  original.  Let  it 
be  remembered,  then,  that  Hakluyt  relies  exci  lively  on  what 
he  obtained  from  Stow  ;  and  in  reading  tlid  iijllowing  pas- 
sage from  the  Annals,  we  Hnd  what  doubtless  passed  into 
Hakluyt's  hands  before  it  was  subniittpd  to  his  perilous 
correction.  It  occurs  at  p.  804  of  the  edition  of  1605,  and  at 
p.  483  of  that  of  1631.  '  This  year  i>ne  Sebastian  Gaboto, 
a  Genoti*s  sonne  borne  in  Bristol.,  professing  himself  to  be 
expert  in  the  knowledge  of  the  circuit  of  the  world,  and 
islands  of  the  same,  as  by  nis  charts  and  other  reasonable 
demonstrations  he  shewed,  caused  the  king  to  man  and 
victual  a  ship,'  &c.  The  rest  corresponds  with  the  passage 
in  Hakluyt.     *     *     *     Thus,"  continues  the  biographefi 


i\ 


if 


■i  I 


Sil 


!) 


ti<' 


If' 


?!/ 


340 


APPENDIX. 


"  we  have  the  best  evidence  that  the  contemporary  writer, 
whoever  he  may  have  been,  made  not  the  slightest  allusion 
to  the  father.  Bacon,  Speed,  Thuanus,  &c.  all  furnish  the 
same  statement."* 

Such  is  the  passage  from  the  Memoir  of  Cabot ;  and 
thus  it  appears  that  the  whole  of  this  attack  upon  Hakluyt 
rests  upon  a  fact  which  the  biographer  imagines  he  has 
proved,  but  which  in  truth  is  nothing  else  than  a  piece  of 
the  merest  and  the  most  vague  pr*»sumption^ — namely,  that 
Stow  furnished  Hakluyt,  in  1562,  with  an  extract  from 
Fabyan,  which,  when  he  himself  proceeded,  about  eighteen 
years  after,  to  compile  his  Annals  from'a  long  list  of  writers, 
whose  names  he  has  given  us  in  his  prefatory  pages,  he  so 
scrupulously  copied,  that  we  are  entitled  to  take  it  as  it 
stands  in  the  said  Annals,  and  argue  upon  it  as  the  iden- 
tical passage  contained  in  the  lost  chronicle  of  P'abyan. 

But  this  is  not  merely  gratuitous  assumption.  There  is, 
we  think,  strong  evidence  to  show  that  Stow,  in  composing 
his  various  works,  did  not,  upon  the  point  in  question, — 
the  discovery  of  America, — consult  the  manuscript  of 
Fabyan,  although  he  affirms  it  to  be  in  his  possession,  but 
in  the  multiplicity  of  his  authorities  had  overlooked  it  alto- 
gether. The  first  Summary  of  Chronicles  was  published 
by  this  industrious  antiquary  in  1565.  A  new  edition  was 
given  in  1573,  and  again  another  edition  in  1598.  His 
excellent  work  entitled  a  Survey  of  London  and  West- 
minster was  also  published  in  1598 :  and  it  is  a  remarkable 
circumstance,  and  one  which  militates  strongly  against  the 
hypothesis  of  the  biographer,  that  although  in  the  list  of 
his  authorities  prefixed  to  the  edition  of  his  Chronicles  in 
1573,  and  to  the  Survey  of  London,  there  is  express  men- 
tion of  the  manuscript  by  Fabyan,  si  ill,  in  neither  of  these 
works  is  there  any  allusion  made,  which  we  can  discover, 
to  the  voyages  of  the  Cabots,  or  the  discovery  of  America. 
His  work  entitled  Flores  Historiarum,  or  Annals  of  Eng- 
land, was  published  in  1600,  and  here,  for  the  first  time,  is 
the  passage  regarding  the  voyage  to  America  introduced  ; 
in  which,  as  we  have  already  seen,  Sebastian  Cabot  is 
called  "  a  Genoa's  son."  But  it  is  to  be  recollected  that 
Robert  Fabyan  was  a  contemporary  of  Sebastian  Cabot ; 

*  Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  44. 


VINDICATION   OY   HAKLUYT. 


d4i 


M 

Jl 


iTary  writer, 
test  allusion 
I  furnish  the 

Cabot;  and 
pen  Hakluyt 
rines  he  has 
n  a  piece  of 
namely,  that 
extract  from 
»out  eighteen 
ist  of  writers, 
pages,  he  so 
►  take  it  as  it 
L  as  the  iden- 
f  Fabyan. 
n.     There  is, 
in  composing 
n  question,— 
lanu script   of 
ossession,  but 
■looked  it  alto- 
was  published 
|w  edition  was 
in  1598.     His 
,n  and  West- 
1  a  remarkable 
ly  against  the 
in  the  list  of 
Chronicles  in 
,  express  men- 
[eiiher  of  these 
can  discover, 
•y  of  America, 
mals  of  Eng- 
le  first  time,  is 
;a  introduced  ; 
stian  Cabot  is 
[ecoUected  that 
astian  Cabot ; 


that  he  was  a  rich  merchant  and  alderman  of  London  ; 
and  the  probability  is,  that  he  was  either  personally  ac- 
quainted with  so  illustrious  a  navigator,  or  at  least  enjoyed 
the  beat  opportunities  of  rendering  himself  master  of  his 
history.     It  appears  to  us,  therefore,  exceedingly  improb- 
able that  Fabyan  should  have   fallen  into  the  error  of  de- 
scribing Sebastian  Cabot   as  a   Genoese's  son,  instead  of 
the  8<m  of  a  Venetian.     Now,  it  is  a  singular  circumstance, 
that  in  the  Chronicle  of  Thomas  Lanquette,  a  work  which 
Stow  also  mentions  as  in  his  possession,  Sebastian  is  de- 
scribed as  the  son  of  a  Genoese,  and   the  discoverer  of  a 
part  of  the  West  Indies,*  and  this  induces  us   to  conjec- 
ture that  the  passage  in  question  was  taken  by  Stow,  not 
from  Fabyan's  Chronicle,  but   from  that  work.     Down  to 
1598,  he  does  not  appear  to  have  examined  Fabyan's  trea- 
tise upon  the  subject  of  America",  or  Cabot;  and  becoming 
old  (he  was  now  in  his  seventy-sixth  year),  and  failing  in 
'his  memory,  it  appears  extremely  probable  that  he  had  con- 
tented himself  with  a  reference  to  the  volume  of  Lanquette. 
So  far,  therefore,  from    admitting  the   fact    which    has 
been  hastily,  and  without  any  sufficient  ground,  assumed 
by   the  biographer,    tlint   the  passage   in    Stow's   Annals 
regarding    Sebastian  Cabot    may  be    considered  the  very 
extract  from  Fabyan  communicated  to  Hakluyt,    we  con- 
tend that  a  minute  examination  of  Stow's  historical  labours 
proves  that,  in  composing  his   Annals,  he  had  omitted  to 
consult  the  Chronicle  of  Fabyan,  and  had  copied  some  less 
authentic  writer — probably    the   Chronicle    of   Lanquette. 
What  follows  from  this  ] — First,  the  whole  elaborate  accu- 
sation of  guilty  perversion  of  the  extract  from  Fabyan,  so 
unceremoniously  advanced  against  Hakluyt,  falls  completely 
to  the  ground.     Secondly,  the  biographer's  supposed  pas- 
sage from  Fabyan,  a  contemporary,  turns  out  to  be  nothing 
more  than  a  quotation  from  Stow  ;  and  consequently,  the 
assertion  that  the  former  has  described  Sebastian  Cabot  as 
the   sole  projector  and  executor  of  the  voyage   in  which 
North  America  was  discovered,  is  perfectly  unw.irrantable. 
The  original  manuscript  of  Fabyan,  as  we  have   already 

*  Barrett's  Bristol,  p.  185,  173.  1  take  it  for  granted  that  this  author 
must  have  seen  the  passage  which  he  quote.s ;  but  in  ihe  only  edition 
of  Lanquette's  Chronicle  which  I  have  haU  an  opporiuiiity  of  examin- 
ing there  is  no  such  passoi^e. 

Ff2 


!*>^ 


t'  ii 


342 


APPENDIX. 


stated,  is  lost ;  the  original  extract  from  it  furnished  by 
Stow  to  Hakluyt  is  also  lost ;  and  without  a  minute  exami- 
nation of  these  two  documents,  the  biographer  was  not  en- 
titled to  wound  the  fair  reputation  of  this  excellent  writer,  to 
whom  the  history  of  naval  discovery  is  under  so  many  obli- 
gations, by  charges  without  proof,  and  innuendoes  arising 
mainly  out  of  the  errors  which  he  himself  has  committed. 

But  the  biographer  will  perhaps  contend  that  he  has  at 
least  made  out  one  fact  against  Hakluyt — namely,  that  in 
1589  he  altered  the  passage  from  the  fonn  in  which  he  gave  it 
in  1582  ;  and  is  not  this,  says  he,  a  dishonest  and  guilty 
deed  ?  To  this  we  answer, — and  we  think  it  impossible  for 
him  to  controvert  the  assertion, — that,  admitting  the  fact, 
there  is  no  guilt  or  dishonesty  in  the  case.  The  vitiation 
of  the  text  imputed  here  to  Hakluyt  may  be  considered 
either  as  a  perversion  of  the  real  truth,  historically  con- 
sidered, or  of  the  individual  passage,  or  of  both. 

First,  then,  it  is  to  be  remarked,  that  Hakluyt  cannot  be 
accused  of  dishonesty,  historically  speaking,  because  in 
the  passages  in  question  he  has  stated  nothing  but  the 
truth.  It  has  been  already  proved  that  the  extract  com- 
municated by  Stow  relates  solely  to  the  second  voyage  of 
1498,  planned  and  fitted  out  by  John  Cabot  the  Venetian, 
and  conducted  afterward  by  his  son  Sebastian ;  and  the 
alteration  of  the  note,  from  the  words  "  a  Venetian,"  used 
in  1582,  to  the  words  "one  John  Cabot,  a  Venetian,"  used 
in  1589,  only  makes  it  speak  with  more  clearness  and  accu- 
ra"cy.  But,  in  the  second  place,  Hakluyt,  says  the  biogra- 
pher, has  perverted  and  altered  a  quotation.  There  might 
be  some  appearance  of  plausibility  in  this  accusation,  if 
Hakluyt  had  given  the  passage  in  dispute  as  a  quotation, 
and  had  thus  bound  himself  down  to  the  common  usage 
which  compels  an  author  in  such  a  case  to  insert  it  word 
for  word.  But  he  does  not  do  so.  He  warns  the  reader 
that  he  is  perusing,  not  a  quotation,  but  a  "  note  made  up 
by  him  from  an  (3xtract  communicated  by  Stow,  and  taken 
out  of  the  latter  part  of  Robert  Fabyan's  Chronicle,  not 
hitherto  printed  ;"  and  having  done  so,  he  considered  him- 
self at  liberty  to  correct  that  note,  by  inserting  in  it  any 
additional  information  which  he  had  acquired.  In  1582,  he 
thought  that  the  words,  "  a  Genoa's  son,  born  in  Bristol," 
could  not  apply  to  Sebastian  Cabot,  with  whom  they  were 


!   >- 


VINDICATION   OF   HAKLUYT. 


343 


>  '1 


imisKed  by 
lUte  exami- 
vatf  not  en- 
it  writer,  to 
many  obli- 
loes  arising 
lomniitted. 
at  he  has  at 
ely,  that  in 
:h  he  gave  it 
L  and  gui^y 
npossible  for 
ng  the  fact, 
["he  vitiation 
e  considered 
arically  con- 

h. 

yt  cannot  be 
,  because  in 
ling  but  the 
extract  coni- 
nd  voyage  of 
he  "Venetian, 
[ian ;  and  the 
etian,"  used 
letian,"  used 
;ss  and  accu- 
s  the  biogra- 
IThere  might 
jccusation,  if 
a  quotation, 
immon  usage 
isert  it  word 
,s  the  reader 
lote  made  up 
V,  and  taken 
[hronicle,  not 
jsidered  him- 
ng  in  it  any 
In  1582,  he 
in  Bristol," 
they  were 


Cbupled,  and  he  inserts  the  words,  "  a  Venetian,"  dropping 
the  name  altogether.  In  1589,  he  had  probably  become 
acquainted  with  the  second  patent,  which  ascribed  the  plan 
of  the  expedition  solely  to  John  Cabot ;  and  he  therefore 
added  to  his  note  the  words,  "  John  Cabot,  a  Venetian," 
where  he  speaks  of  the  person  who  had  caused  the  king  to 
man  and  victual  a  ship.  Even,  therefore,  if  we  were  to 
admit,  which  we  do  not,  that  a  discrepancy  had  been  made 
out  between  the  passages  in  Hakluyt  and  the  real  extract 
from  the  Chronicle  of  Robert  Fabyan,  we  should  be  en- 
titled to  repel  any  accusations  against  his  honesty,  founded 
upon  a  basis  so  extremely  erroneous. 

The  memorialist  now  comes  to  the  consideration  of  the 
proof  as  to  the  "  personal  agency  of  the  father  in  the  dis- 
covery of  North  America,  derived  from  the  inscription  on 
the  map  cut  by  Clement  Adams,  which  Hakluyt  states  is 
to  he  seen  in  her  majesty's  Privy  Gallery  at  Westminster, 
and  in  many  other  ancient  merchants'  houses."*  And 
here  he  commences  his  examination  by  another  unfair 
innuendo  against  this  writer.  "  We  approach  the  statement 
of  Hakluyt,"  says  he,  "  with  a  conviction  that  he  would 
not  hesitate  for  a  moment  to  interpolate  the-  name  of  John 
Cabot,  if  he  thought  that  thereby  was  secured  a  better  cor- 
respondence with  the  original  patent."  I  have  convicted 
him  (it  is  thus  he  argues)  of  interpolating  the  quotation 
furnished  by  Stow  from  Fabyan,  and  there  is  a  strong  pre- 
sumption he  would  not  hesitate  to  alter  the  inscription  also. 
"  It  would,  certainly,"  he  remarks,  "  require  less  audacity 
te  associate  here  the  name  of  the  father,  as  it  is  found  in  the 
patent,  than  to  do  that  of  which  Hakluyt  has  already  been 
convicted. "t  To  this  indirect  insinuation  it  may  be  calmly 
replied,  that,  as  the  first  attempt  to  affix  guilt  upon  Hak- 
luyt has  been  shown  to  be  a  total  failure,  the  inscription 
ought  to  be  received  from  his  hands  with  perfect  confidence 
that  we  read  it  in  his  work  exactly  as  it  was  copied  by  him 
from  the  original  map  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  cut  by  Clement 
Adams.  From  the  manner  in  which  it  is  given,  first  in  the 
original  Latin,  and  then  translated,  it  professes  to  be  an 
exact  quotation  ;  and  even  were  Hakluyt  as  guilty  a  person 
as  the  biographer  represents  him,  it  might  be  contended 

*  See  the  proof  stntcc?.    Supra,  p.  16.  t  Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  48. 


'I 


(ill 
m 


I 


IK: 


I, 


IF' 

■ 

}  I 

''Mi 


!    IB* 


i   >\ 


Hi 


344 


APPENDIX. 


that  he  would  have  paused  before  he  committed  an  act  of 
interpolation,  of  which  the  original  in  the  Queen's  Gallery, 
and  in  many  ancient  merchants'  houses,  must  have  in- 
stantly convicted  him. 

But  to  proceed.  Having  thus  prepared  us  to  expect  an 
aud<icious  alteration,  the  biographer  endeavours  o  show 
that  those  persons  who  had  seen  Sebastian  Cabot'  charts 
and  maps,  introduce  no  allusion  to  the  father,  and  h  leaves 
the  reader  to  make  the  inevitable  inference  against  H  kluyt's 
honesty.  This  writer  has  quoted  an  inscription  on  Sebas- 
tian Cabot's  map,  which  attributes  the  discovery  ti  John 
Cabot.  But  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert,  who  had  seen  Sebas- 
tian's charts,  makes  no  allusion  to  the  father ;  and  Richard 
Willes,  who  speaks  familiarly  of  the  map  of  this  navigator, 
does  not  mention  John ;  therefore  it  is  left  to  the  reader 
silently  to  infer  that  Hakluyt  may  have  interpolated  the 
name  of  the  father.  A  plain  statement  of  the  fact  wiB 
put  all  this  down  in  an  instant : — Hakluyt  has  narrated  in 
the  clearest  terms  that  the  map  to  which  he  alludes,  and 
from  which  he  copies  the  inscription,  was  engraved  by 
Clement  Adams  ;  and  the  terms  of  the  inscription  show 
that  it  (the  inscription)  was  added  by  the  artist.  Sir  Hum- 
phrey Gilbert,  on  the  contrary,  just  as  clearly  states,  that 
the  documents  to  which  he  alludes,  are  "  charts  of  Sebastian 
Cabot,  which  are  to  be  seen  in  the  queen  majesty's  Privy 
Gp";^ry  at  Whitehall," — evidently  meaning  the  original 
charts  drawn  by  this  seaman,  and  presented  to  the  queen  ;* 
and  Willes  does  not  mention  the  engraved  map  at  all,  but 
speaks  of  a  table  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  which  the  father  of 
Lady  Warwick  had  at  Cheynics.f  The  argument,  there- 
fore, or  rather  the  unfavourable  inference  created  in  the 
mind  of  the  reader  by  the  biographer,  which  derives  its 
force  from  the  supposition  that  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  and 
Richard  Willes  refer  to  the  same  document  as  Hakluyt, 
namely,  the  engraved  map  by  Clement  Adams,  falls  com- 
plj^tely  to  the  grount'.  If  there  had  been  any  account  of 
the  first  discovery  on  the  charts  alluded  to  by  Gilbert,  and 
the  "table"  mentioned  by  Willes,  and  in  this  account  the 
father's  name  had  not  appeared,  there  might  be  some  pre- 


♦  Hakluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  16. 

t  Historv  of  Travel  in  the  West  and  East  Indies,  p.  232. 
irol.  Iii.  p.  25,  26. 


Hakluyt, 


m 


V  I. 


an  act  of 

s  Gallery, 
,  have  in- 

expect  an 
s    o  show 
ot'     charts 
il  h    leaves 
tH  kluyt's 
I  on  Sebas- 
.ry  t*    John 
seen    >ebas- 
ind  Richard 
s  navigator, 
the  reader 
rpolated  the 
he  fact  wifi 
5  narrated  i» 
alludes,  and 
engraved  by 
ription  show 
I.    Sir  Hura- 
^  states,  that 
1  of  Sebastian 
jesty's  Privy 
the  original 
the  queen  ;* 
ap  at  all,  but 
the  father  of 
ment,  there- 
reated  in  the 
h  derives  its 
^  Gilbert  and 
as  Hakluyt, 
is,  falls  com- 
lY  account  of 
Gilbert,  and 
account  the 
be  some  pre- 

232.    Hakluyt, 


VINDICATION   OF   HAKLUYT. 


345 


8umption  against  the  elder  Cabot ;  but  the  writer  of  the 
Memoir  does  not  pretend  there  was  any  such  account  or 
inscription  on  the  charts  and  the  table ;  and  to  infer,  from 
the  silence  of  Gilbert  and  Willes,  either  that  Hakluyt  had 
altered  the  inscription,  or  that  .'  ..in  Cabot  could  not  have 
Ijeen  the  original  discoverer,  is  a  remarkable  instance  of 
vague  and  inconclusive  reasoning. 

This  is  the  proper  place  to  notice  an  extraordinary  error, 
or  rather  series  of  errors,  fallen  into  by  the  biographer,  re- 
garding this  same  "  extract."  It  is  described  by  Hakluyt 
as  an  *<  extract  taken  out  of  the  map  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  cut 
-by  Clement  Adams,  concerning  his  discovery  of  the  West 
Indies,  which  is  to  be  seen  in  her  majestie's  Privy  Gallery 
at  Westminster,  and  in  many  other  ancient  merchants* 
houses."  Clearer  words,  one  would  think,  could  scarcely 
he  employed  to  express  the  fact  that  a  map  engraved  by 
Adams  hung  in  the  Privy  Gallery  at  Westminster,  from 
which  Hakluyt,  who  was  much  about  court,  copied  the  ex- 
tract or  inscription  which  he  has  given  at  p.  6.  Yet  the 
biographer  has  committed  the  singular  blunder  of  supposing 
-that  it  was  the  extract  from  the  map,  and  not  the  map  itself, 
which  was  hung  up  in  the  Privy  Gallery  at  Westminster, 
and  that  it  may  be  inferred  that  Hakluyt  had  never  seen 
the  original  map.  "  From  the  stress,"  says  he,  "  laid  by 
Hakluyt  and  Purchas  on  the  extract  hung  up  in  the  Privy 
Gallery  at  Whitehall,  we  may  infer  that  they  had  never 
seen  the  original  map."*  In  this  sentence  there  occurs  a 
second  error,  in  imagining  that  both  Hakluyt  and  Purchas 
refer  to  the  same  document.  The  allusion  by  Purchas,! 
however,  is  to  one  totally  different.  This  author  refers,  not 
to  any  extract  taken  from  the  map  cut  by  Clement  Adams, 
but  to  "  the  words  of  a  great  map  in  his  majesty's  Privy 
Gallery,  of  which  Sebastian  Cabot  is  often  therein  called 
the  author,  and  his  picture  is  therein  drawn,"  which  map, 
Purchas  adds  in  the  margin,  "  some  say  was  taken  out  of 
Sir  Sebastian  Cabot's  map  by  Clement  Adams  ;"  a  sentence 
proving,  beyond  a  doubt,  that  these  writers  allude  to  differ- 
ent works, — Hakluyt  to  the  map  of  Clement  Adams,  Pur- 
chas to  a  later  one,  supposed  by  some  authors  to  be  copied 
from  it.     Lastly,  in  a  succeeding  sentence,t  the  author  of 


*  Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  52. 
i  Memoir  ol  Cabot,  p.  53, 


t  Purchas,  vol.  iii.  p.  807, 


•'•i 


m 


I 


4-  f ! 


] 


I 


jl 


346 


APPENDIX. 


the  Memoir,  when  he  hazards  the  conjecture  that  the  map 
by  Adams  was  executed  after  Cabot's  death,  and  therefore 
without  any  communication  from  him,  again  widely  errs 
from  the  truth ;  for  had  he  consulted  Purchas  he  would 
have  found  that  the  map  by  Adams  was  published  in  1549.* 
Thus,  in  a  sentence  which  occupies  the  short  spfvce  of 
seven  lines,  three  errors,  and  these  of  no  trivial  importance, 
are  committed.  The  first  error  is  material ;  because  it  in- 
evitably leads  the  reader  to  belinve  that  Hakiuyt  is  only 
giving  an  extract  from  an  extract,  whereas  he  is  giving  an 
extract  from  an  original  which  he  had  seen.  The  second 
error  is  also  important ;  because  it  would  induce  us  to  infer 
that  Purchas  and  Hakiuyt  resolve  into  one  and  the  same 
witness,  whereas  Purchas  quotes  a  separate  and  additional 
testimony ;  for,  it  is  to  be  observed,  that,  on  a  map  en- 
graved probably  some  time  in  the  reign  of  James  VI.,  there 
was  copied  the  same  inscription  as  in  the  early  map  in 
1549 ;  from  which  we  are  entitled  to  conclude,  that  in  the 
interval  nothing  had  transpired  to  invalidate  the  truth  of  the 
inscription.  Lastly,  the  third  error  is  most  material  of  all ; 
because  its  effect  is  to  lead  us  to  consider  the  Latin  inscrip- 
tion copied  by  Hakiuyt  from  the  map  by  Clement  Adams  as 
of  little  or  no  weight  in  evidence,  inst€ad  of  which  it  is,  as 
has  already  been  shown  in  ihe  text,t  as  nearly  as  possible 
equivalent  to  a  declaration  of  Sebastian  Cabot  himself. 

The  laboured  endeavour  to  get  rid  of  the  overpowering 
evidence  of  the  inscription,  by  impeaching  the  accuracy  and 
integrity  of  the  copy  furnished  by  Hakiuyt,  is  thus  singu- 
larly unsuccessful ;  and  having  failed  in  this  point,  the 
author  of  the  Life  of  Cabot  passes  over  altogether  the 
proof  which  it  contains.  This,  we  think,  may  be  taken  for 
a  silent  admission  that,  if  correctly  given,  it  proves  that 
John  Cabot  was  the  discoverer ;  and  we  shall  not  fatigue 
the  reader  by  a  repetition  of  the  arguments  given  in  the 
text,  only  reminding  him  that  it  is  there  shown  that  the 
inscription  was  written,  probably  from  the  information  com- 
municated, either  by  Sebastian  or  by  some  persons  who 
accompanied  the  voyage,  and  that  the  map  where  it  occurs 
must  have  been  often  seen  by  this  navigator. 

In  his  examination  of  the  proofs  of  the  personal  agency 


W  '     ■   ^    i  I 


*  Purchas,  vol.  iii.  p.  807. 


t  Supra,  p.  17 


VINDICATION    OF  HAKLUTT. 


347 


of  John  Cabot,  the  biographer  now  arrives  at  the  appear- 
ance of  his  name  in  the  letters-patent  granted  by  the  king. 
These  interesting  documents,  from  their  priority  of  date 
and  the  importance  of  their  evidence,  every  impartial  in- 
quirer would,  we  think,  have  ranked  first ;  hut  he  at  once 
assigns  them  the  last  place,  and  passes  them  very  lightly 
over.  With  the  substance  of  these  royal  letters  the  reader 
is  already  acquainted  ;*  and  it  is  here  sufficient  to  repeat 
that  the  commission,  in  virtue  of  which  the  first  voyage  of 
1497  was  undertaken,  during  which  North  America  was 
discovered,  is  granted  to  John  Cabot  and  his  three  sons, 
while  the  second  commission  of  149S  is  not  only  granted  to 
John  Cabot  alone,  but,  alluding  to  the  voyage  already  made, 
descrihes  him  as  the  sole  discoverer,  "  giving  him  permis- 
sion to  lead  his  ships  to  the  land  and  isles  of  late  found  bi/ 
the  said  John  in  the  king's  name,  an'd  by  his  command." 
To  escape  from  this  clear  and  unanswerable  assertion  in  a 
document  whose  authenticity  is  higher  than  that  of  any 
other  which  can  he  produced,  the  memorialist,  trembling 
for  his  favourite  Sebastian,  is  driven  to  some  very  desperate 
and  amusing  expedients.  He  first  asserts,  that  the  appear- 
ance of  the  father's  name  in  the  first  commission  or  patent 
does  not  prove  that  he  embarked  in  either  of  the  expeditions. 
Now,  undoubtedly,  if  the  first  patent  stood  alone,  the 
father's  name  in  that  deed  would  not  conclusively  prove 
that  he  conducted  the  first  voyage,  although  a  strong  pre- 
sumption that  he  did  so  might  fairly  be  founded  upon  it ; 
but  it  is  evident  the  two  patents,  in  estimating  the  evidence, 
must  be  taken  together,  and  how  does  the  biographer  get 
rid  of  the  second,  which,  in  language  neither  to  be  evaded 
nor  misunderstood,  distinctly  asserts  the  fact  of  the  dis- 
covery by  the  said  John,  and  by  John  only ;  for  no  otlier 
name  but  that  of  the  father  appears  in  the  deed  ?  The 
extraordinary  theory  by  which  he  attempts  to  elude  its 
evidence  will  best  be  given  in  his  own  words.  '•  The 
second  patent,"  says  he,  "  is  to  the  father  alone.  If  we 
seek  a  reason  for  this  departure  from  the  original  arrange- 
ment, it  may  be  conjectured  that  some  of  the  sons  chose 
to  give  a  different  direction  to  a  parental  advance  and 
their  personal  exertions  ;  and  that  the  head  of  the  family 

*  Sapra,  p.  16, 18. 


i 

■» 

or 
f 


ft 


fi'. 


I 


i 


V. 


i 


Sit 


n 


d48 


API^ENDIl^. 


thought  fit  to  retain  subject  to  his  own  discretionary  die 
posai  the  proposed  investment  of  his  remaining  capital. 
It  is  said  that  one  of  the  sons  settled  at  Venice,  and  the 
other  at  Genoa.  The  recital  of  the  discovery  by  the  father 
would  of  course  be  stated,  under  the  circumstances,  as 
the  consideration  of  the  second  patent  in  his  favour. 
Another  reason  for  the  introduction  of  the  father's  name 
concurrently  at  first  with  his  sons\  and  afterward  exclu- 
sively, may  perhaps  be  found  in  the  wary  character  of  the 
king,  whose  own  pecuniary  interests  were  involved  in  the 
result.  He  might  be  anxious  thus  to  secure  the  responsi- 
bility of  the  wealthy  Venetian  for  the  faithful  execution  of 
the  terms  of  the  patent,  and  finally  think  it  better  to  have 
him  solely  named  rather  than  commit  powers,  on  their  face 
assignable,  to  young  men  who  had  no  stake  in  the  country, 
and  who  were  not  likely  to  make  it  even  a  fixed  place  of 
residence.  On  the  whole,  there  may  at  least  be  a  doubt 
whether  the  father  really  accompanied  the  expedition."*  It 
is  surely  quite  unnecessary  to  attempt  a  serious  reply  to 
this  singular  passage,  which,  advancing  from  one  step  of 
an  improbable  and  unsupported  hypothesis  to  another,  lands 
the  reader  at  last  in  that  conclusion  of  outrageous  skepti- 
cism which  has  just  been  quoted.  The  words  of  the  second 
commission  state,  a  simple  fact,  "  that  the  land  and  isles 
were  discovered  by  John  Cabot.^*  The  biographer,  in  reply, 
first  talks  discursively  and  at  some  length  on  the  motives 
which  induced  the  sons,  Lewis,  Sanchez,  and  Sebastian,  to 
withdraw  a  capital  which  there  is  no  proof  they  ever  ad- 
vanced,— subjects  of  little  moment, — and  he  then  at  once 
gets  rid  of  the  stubborn  fact,  that  John  Cabot  is  named 
as  the  "  sole  discoverer,"  by  the  incidental  remark,  that 
this  would,  of  course,  be  stated  as  the  ground  of  the 
second  patent, — a  species  of  reply  which  irresistibly  re- 
minds us  of  the  celebrated  mode  of  getting  rid  of  any  diffi- 
culty "  by  a  concatenation."  We  leave  the  reader  to  form 
his  own  conclusion  from  the  words  of  the  commission,  with 
no  anxiety  as  to  the  result. 

It  is  asserted  that  Hakluyt  is  guilty  of  perversion  when 
he  describes  John  Cabot  as  "  very  expert  and  cunning  in 
the  knowledge  of  the  circuit  of  the  world,  and  islands  of  the 


*  Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  M. 


(tionary  die 
ing  capital, 
ce,  and  the 
)y  the  father 
nstances,  as 
his    favour, 
other's  name 
rward  exclu- 
racter  of  the 
solved  in  the 
the  responsi- 
execution  of 
letter  to  have 
on  their  face 
1  the  country, 
xed  place  of 
5t  be  a  doubt 
)edition."*   It 
ious  reply  to 
n  one  step  of 
another,  lands 
ageous  skepti- 
3  of  the  second 
land  and  isles 
pher,  in  reply, 
m  the  motives 
Sebastian,  to 
they  ever  ad- 
then  at  once 
|abot  is  named 
remark,  that 
round  of  the 
irresistibly  re- 
id  of  any  diffi- 
jrcader  to  form 
imission,  with 

[rversion  when 

id  cunning  in 

islands  of  the 


VINDICATION    OF    HAKLUYT. 


949 


same,  as  by  a  sea-card,  and  other  demonstrations  reasonable, 
he  shewed;"*  and  in  the  same  breath  the  biographer  pro»- 
ceeds  to  arraicfn  Campbell,  Macpherson,  and  Barrow  of 
folly,  because  they  speak  of  him  as  a  scientific  and  able  sea- 
man, there  being  no  proof  that  he  was  any  thing  else  than 
a  merchant  who  dwelt  in  England.!  Now  when  Hakluyt,  in 
a  writing  of  unquestionable  authenticity  (the  first  royal  com- 
mission just  quoted),  found  John  Cabot  intrusted  with  the 
command  of  a  squadron  of  five  ships,  which  was  empowered 
to  sail  on  a  voyage  of  discovery  to  all  countries  and  seas 
of  the  east,  west,  and  north,  he  certainly  cannot  be  ho 
cused  of  having  committed  any  grievous  infringement  upon 
truth  or  probability  when  he  described  him  as  a  seaman  ; 
and  when,  in  another  document  of  almost  equal  authority 
(the  inscription  on  the  map  by  Clement  Adams),  he  ob* 
served  it  stated  that  he,  along  with  his  son  Sebastian,  were 
the  first  who  discovered  North  America,  are  we  to  be  told 
that  he  was  guilty  of  excessive  exaggeration,  when  he  drew 
the  inference  which  every  discerning  and  impartial  mind 
would  be  inclined  to  derive  from  the  same  facts,  that  the 
author  of  such  a  discovery  must  have  been  an  excellent 
navigator  and  cosmographer  ]  Nor  is  it  a  fair  mode  of 
reasoning  to  accuse  Campbell  and  Barrow  as  guilty  of  a 
thoi'isand  absurdities,  when  they  describe  John  Cabot  as  an 
"  accomplished  seaman,  a  skilful  pilot,  or  an  intrepid  navi- 
gator, "t  These  writers,  it  is  to  be  recollected,  had  before 
them  the  letters-patent  in  Rymer,  and  the  inscription  by 
Adams,  instrur.ients  which  had  in  no  way  been  perverted  ; 
and  from  an  examination  of  these  they  arrived  at  the  con- 
clusion, to  which  every  reader  is  inevitably  led,  that  he  who 
possessed  the  inventive  mind  to  plan  this  new  course  to 
India  by  the  north-west,  who  had  in  person  commanded  the 
expedition  and  successfully  achieved  the  discovery,  must 
have  been,  both  as  a  practical  and  a  scientific  navigator,  a 
man  of  no  ordinary  character  and  acquirements. 

It  is  difficult,  within  the  limits  to  which  we  must  confme 
these  remarks,  to  reply  to  the  various  accusations  against 
Hakluyt  which  are  scattered  throughout  the  pages  of  this 


*  Hakluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  9. 
tllnd.  p.  46,  50, 51. 


t  Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  46, 47,  50, 51. 


*>A 


i  i 


I' 


w 


Ml 


S   'l 


vl 


i 


n 


360 


APPENDIX. 


ir 


j 


Memoir ;  besides,  we  do  not  profess  to  write  a  full  vindica- 
tion of  that  excellent  author.  He  is  arraigned  of  ignorance 
and  carelessness  as  a  translator,  of  a  want  of  integrity  in 
regard  to  the  sense  of  his  original,  and  of  appropriating  to 
himself  passages  from  other  authors  without  acknowledg- 
ment. The  gravest  accusation,  that  of  wilfully  altering  the 
sense  of  his  original,  has  been  satisfactorily  answered 
already  ;  but  we  venture  to  say  that  few  who  are  acquainted 
with  his  amusing  and  instructive  volumes  will  not  be  aston- 
ished at  the  charge  of  plagiarism.  A  conscientious  and 
even  tedious  scrupulosity  in  giving  the  names  of  every  indi- 
vidual from  whorri  h>  has  derived  his  information  is  one  of 
the  most  striking  features  of  his  work.  The  third  volume 
of  the  second  edition  of  his  voyages  happens  to  be  now  on 
the  table  before  us  :  it  consists  of  about  158  separate  docu- 
ments, and  we  will  venture  to  say,  that  of  these  there  is 
not  one  upon  which  the  i)iographer  can  support  a  charge 
of  any  thing  approaching  to  serious  and  premeditated  plagia- 
rism ;  not  one  in  which,  if  the  author's  name  is  known,  it 
is  not  anxiously  mentioned  ;  or,  if  it  is  unknown,  where  the 
anonymous  paper  is  not  given  in  such  a  way  that  it  cannot 
possibly  be  attributed  to  the  compiler  himself.  Even  the 
two  instances  in  this  volume  quoted  against  him  by  the 
biographer  do  not  in  fair  reasoning  form  an  exception. 

No  one  who  has  read  Hakluyt's  preface  will  be  disposed 
to  think  with  severity  of  the  slight  alterations  which,  with 
the  honest  intention  of  presenting  the  whole  truth  before 
his  reader,  he  has  occasionally  introduced  into  the  abstracts, 
notes,  and  translations,  which  form  the  great  body  of  his 
work.  His  earnest  desire,  as  he  himself  declares,  "  was  to 
adjust  the  displaced  and  scattered  limbs,  as  well  of  ancient 
and  late  voyages  by  sea  as  of  travels  by  land,  and  traffic 
of  merchandise  by  both,  into  one  regular  body  ;  restoring 
each  divided  and  dislocated  member  to  its  natural  order  and 
symmetry,  and  by  the  help  of  geography  and  chronology, 
the  sun  and  moon,  or  right  and  left  eye  of  all  history,  refer- 
ring each  particular  narration  to  its  due  time  and  place." 
That  in  accomplishing  this  laudab'e  object  he  has  sometimes 
used  rather  undue  liberties  with  his  documents,  may  be 
admitted  ;  but  even  in  the  most  remarkable  of  these  instances 
of  alleged  mistranslation  and  iiiterpolation  which  the  biogra- 


VINDICATION    OF    HAKLVYT. 


861 


pher  has  brought  against  him,  the  passages  are  fivjc  accu- 
rately given  in  the  original  language,  a  mode  of  proceeding 
which  completely  establishes  the  honesty  of  his  intentions. 
It  is  vain  to  accuse  of  fraudulent  interpolation  a  writer 
who  first  warns  the  reader  that  he  must  be  prepared  to  find 
some  of  the  translations  of  the  documents  which  he  has 
presented  partially  transposed,  and  corrected  by  the  help 
of  geography  and  chronology,  and  who  carefully  quotes,  in 
the  same  page,  the  passages  in  the  oriuinMl,  before  he  pre- 
sents them  in  the  shape  which  he  believes  consistent  with 
truth.  If  this  be  fraud,  it  possesses  a  very  singular  charac- 
ter;  it  is  fraud  which  courts  detection  ;  it  is  forgery,  studi- 
ously placing  in  the  hands  of  all  readers  the  documents  by 
which  its  iniquity  may  be  traced  and  established. 

With  regard  to  the  attack  made  upon  this  writer  for  his 
ignorance  and  mistranslation,  the  author  of  the  Life  of 
Cabot,  we  think,  in  considering  Hakluyt's  voluminous 
labours,  consisting  of  three  folio  volumes,  might  have  been 
disposed  to  pardon  a  few  inaccuracies  of  this  nature.  They 
will  insinuate  themselves,  however  anxious  we  may  be  to 
avoid  them,  into  all  humnn  productions ;  and  he  who  has 
spent  most  time  in  works  requiring  multifarious  research, 
and  the  painful  examination  of  ancient  authorities,  will  be 
the  most  disposed  to  view  with  lenient  eyes  the  errors  of 
such  as  are  similarly  occupied.  If  the  biographer  will  turn 
to  his  own  Memoir  (p.  240)  he  will  find  in  Pasquiligi's  de- 
scription of  the  captives  the  following  sentence  :  "  Hanno 
signata  la  faza  in  modo  de  Indiani :  chi  da  vi.,  chi  da  viii., 
chi  da  manco  segni."  Their  faces  they  have  punctured  like 
Indians^  some  with  six,  some  with  eight,  some  with  fewer 
marks.  In  the  Memoir,  it  is  thus  translated,  "  They  punc- 
ture the  face,  like  the  Indians,  exhibiting  six,  eight,  or  even 
more  marks."  Do  not  let  the  biographer  imagine  that  we 
have  quoted  this  erroneous  version  of  a  very  simple  passage 
with  the  view  of  accusing  him  of  ignorance,  or  that  there  is 
the  slightest  intention  of  insinuating  that  he  did  not  know 
that  the  four  words  ''  chi  da  manco  segni"  meant  "  some 
with  fewer  marks."  The  oversight  is  pointed  out  as  an 
example  of  the  occasional  mistranslations  or  mistakes  into 
which,  with  every  desire  to  be  accurate,  even  a  well-informed 
writer  will  occasionally  fall,  that  he  may  be  inclined  to  ex- 
tend to  the  labours  of  others  that  charity  of  criticism  with 


f 


J 


>  I 


II 


I' 

i! 


852 


APPENDIX. 


I 


I 

It- 


which  he  would  wish  that  every  liberal  nrtnd  should  regard 
his  own.* 

The  author  of  the  Life  of  Cabot  was  perfectly  entitled  to 
maintain  the  theory  that  Sebastian,  the  son,  and  not  John 
Cabot,  the  father,  was  the  discoverer  of  North  America  ; 
but  he  was  not  entitled  to  adopt,  what  we  must  denominate 
the  disingenuous  method  of  making  an  impresHlon  upon  the 
reader's  mind  by  silently  dropping  the  name  of  the  latter 
out  of  passages  where,  if  he  Inid  stated  the  whole  truth,  he 
ought  to  have  mentioned  both.  Thus,  at  page  174  we  find 
this  remark  :  "At  his  return  [Sebastian]  Cabot  settled  in 
Bristol,  *****  fifty-three  years  after  the  date 
of  his  first  commission  from  Henry  VII."  Again,  page 
222,  we  find  this  notice  :  "  Sixty-one  years  had  now  elapsed 
since  the  date  of  the  first  commission  from  Henry  VII.  to 
Sebastian  Cabot,  and  the  powers  of  nature  must  have  been 
absolutely  wearied  out."  Again,  page  235,  we  have  another 
more  glaring  example  of  this  determination  to  keep  the 
father  entirely  out  of  view  :  "The  bare  mention  of  these 
dates  will  establish  the  impossibility  that  he  could  have  been 
ignorant  of  the  great  discoveries  of  Cabot  [it  is  Sebastian 
he  is  speaking  of  J,  which,  commencing  at  the  point  seen  on 
the  24th  June,  1497,  had  extended  over  the  '  londe  and  isle* 
recited  in  the  second  patent."  In  the  first  and  second  of 
these  sentences  John  Cabot's  name  is  entirely  suppressed, 
although  the  commission  spoken  of  was  directed  to  him, 
along  with  his  three  sons ;  and  in  the  last,  the  entire 
merit  of  the  discovery  is  ascribed  to  Sebastian,  at  the  mo- 
ment the  biographer  is  quoting  the  words  of  the  secofid 
eommission,  which  positively  attributes  it  to  John. 

Allusion  has  already  been  shortly  made  to  the  "  evidence" 
contained  in  the  inscription  upon  an  ancient  portrait  of 
Sebastian  Cabot ;  but  we  must  be  allowed,  for  a  moment, 
to  add  a  few  words  upon  this  proof,  which  is  very  important 
and  conclusive.  I'here  is  now  in  existence  a  portrait  of 
this  navigator,  by  Holbein,  for  a  minute  history  of  which  we 
refer  the  reader  to  the  Appendix  to  the  Memoir  of  Cabot.f 

*  In  Uie  same  jiassnge  from  Pasquiligi,  another  oversight  occurs: 
"  Nela  terra  loro  non  hanno  ferro;  nia  ranno  cortelli  de  alcune  pietre." 
Memoir  or  ( 'ahot.  p  240.  "In  their  country  ihey  do  not  possess  iron, 
but  they  muke  knives  of  particular  kinds  of  stones."  The  biographer 
translates  cortelli  swords 

t  Memoir  of  Cabot,  Appendix,  LeUer  F.  p.  333. 


^^.. 


VINDICATION   OF    HAKLVVT. 


363 


lould  regard 

ly  entitled  to 
nd  not  John 
h  America  ; 
(ieiioininate 
ion  upon  the 
>f  the  hitter 
lole  truth,  he 
174  we  find 
)ot  settled  in 
ter  the  date 
Again,  page 
now  elapsed 
enry  VI I.  to 
i8t  have  heen 
have  another 
to  keep  the 
tion  of  these 
jid  have  been 
is  Sebastian 
point  seen  on 
onde  and  isle* 
id  second  of 
\/  suppressed, 
cted  to  him, 
t,  the  entire 
,  at  the  mo- 
f  the  second 
)hn. 
"  evidence" 
portrait  of 
a  moment, 
ry  important 
portrait  of 
of  which  we 
Ir  of  Cabot. t 

Irsight  occurs: 
(alcune  pieire." 
possesR  iron, 
L'hti  biographer 


It  is  sufficient  for  our  purpose  to  remark,  that  it  is  acknow- 
ledged to  be  an  original,  for  which  Sebastian  sat  to  the 
artist,  and  which,  in  the  time  of  Purchas,  hung  in  the 
Privy  Gallery  at  Whitehall.  Upon  this  picture  is  the  fol- 
lowing inscription  :  "  Kfligies  Seb.  Caboti  Angli,  filii  Jo- 
hannisCaboti  Veneti  Militia  Aurati,  Primi  Inventoris  Terra 
NovjB  sub  Henrico  VII.  Anglije  Rege."  It  is  evident,  by 
the  common  rules  of  granmintical  construction,  that  the 
words  Militis  Aurati,  Primi  Invtntoris  Terraj  Novib  sub 
Henrico  VII.  Anglias  Rege,  apply  exclusively  to  John  Cabot ; 
and  if  so,  they  contain  a  positive  assertion  that  John  was 
the  first  discoverer  of  North  America.  Now,  the  authen- 
ticity of  the  picture  being  undoubted,  the  inscription  fur- 
nishes as  convincing  a  piece  of  evidence  as  could  well  be 
conceived.  And  again,  it  may  be  fairly  argued,  that  the 
circumstance  of  the  words  Militis  Aurati  being  found  united 
with  the  name  of  John  Cabot,  by  which  it  is  proved  that  the 
king  had  conferred  on  him,  and  not  on  Sebastian,  the  hon- 
our of  knighthood,  afTords  the  strongest  presumption  that 
it  was  John  who  was  the  original  discoverer. 

This  remark  leads  us,  in  the  last  place,  to  expose  an  ex- 
traordinary series  of  errors  committed  by  the  biographer, 
in  relation  to  this  Latin  inscription  on  the  picture.  Ho  has 
accused  Dr.  Henry,  Dr.  Campbell,  and  the  authors  of  the 
Biographia  Britannica  of  an  absurd  misconception,  in  ima- 
gining that  the  words  Militis  Aurati  indicate  that  John 
Cabot  had  been  knighted.  But  it  is  justice  to  let  him  speak 
for  himself.  He  first  demonstrates  that  the  words  Miles 
Auratus  cannot  possibly  apply  to  the  son  Sebastian,  after 
which  he  proceeds  thus  : — "  The  point  being  thus  clear 
with  regard  to  the  son,  other  writers  have  assumed,  as  a 
matter  of  course,  that  the  distinction  (of  knighthood)  must 
have  been  conferred  on  John  Cabot."  "  Accordingly, 
Campbell,  in  his  Lives  of  the  Admirals,  has  an  article  en- 
titled Sir  John  Cabot.  Dr.  Henry  informs  us,  in  his  His- 
tory of  Britain,  vol.  vi.  p.  618,  that  John  Cabot  was  gra- 
ciously received  and  knighted  on  his  return,  and  the  same 
statement  is  repeated  in  the  Biographia  Britannica."  "  To 
the  utter  confusion"  he  continues,  "of  all  thess  grave  au- 
thorities, a  moment^s  consideration  will  show  that  iSe  words 
relied  on  do  in  themselves  prove  that  knighthood  had  not  been 
conferred.    It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  follow  up  this  sug- 

Gg8 


M 


r 


,\ 


*  1^- 


•  »\ 


354 


APPENDIX. 


gestion,  by  stating,  that  in  reference  to  one  who  had  re- 
ceived that  honour,  they  would  have  beeti^  not  Militis  Auratii 
biit  Equitis  Aurati.  Though  the  term  Miles  is  sometimes 
applied  in  old  documents  even  to  peers,  yet,  as  a  popular 
designation,  the  language  of  the  inscription  negatives  the 
idea  of  knighthood.  In  the  very  works  immediately  con- 
nected with  the  subject  of  the  present  volume,  the  appro- 
priate phrase  perpetually  occurs.  Thus,  Eqves  Auratus  is 
wsed  to  designate  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  (Hakluyt,  vol.  iii. 
p.  137);  Sir  Hugh  Willoughby,  ib.  p.  142;  Sir  Martin 
Fiobisher,  ib.  p.  142  ;  Sir  Francis  Drake,  ib.  p.  143.  In 
the  dedication  of  Lok's  translation  of  Peter  Martyr,  it  is  rn 
like  minner  used,  and  we  see  it  at  this  moment  on  the  '  Ef- 
figies' of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  prefixed  to  the  first  edition  of 
his  History  of  the  World.  It  will  probably  be  deemed  very 
superfluous  to  refer  to  Selden's  Titles  of  Honour  (p.  830) 
for  a  confirmation  of  what  has  been  stated.  The  weight  of 
censure  must  fall  on  Purchas,  who  was  originally  guilty  of 
the  blunder^* 

One  would  have  thought  that  the  writer  must  have  been 
very  sure  of  the  ground  on  which  he  stood  before  he  ven- 
tured to  assume  so  lofty  and  decisive  a  tone, — and  y«  t  we  are 
altogether  at  a  loss  for  expressions  which  may  mark  cour- 
teously, and  yet  strongly,  the  combination  of  error,  igno- 
rance, and  absurdity  presented  by  this  extraordinary  sen- 
tence. He  first  argues,  tluU  the  wonL  Miles  Auratus  are 
never  used  to  denote  a  knight ;  and,  secondly,  that  where 
they  are  used,  they  "  do  in  themselves  prove  that  knight- 
hood had  not  been  conferred."  Now,  fortunately,  the  biog- 
rapher allows  that  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  was  a  knight,  in- 
deed he  is  one  of  his  own  examples  of  Equites  Aurati. 
Keeping  this  in  mind,  we  request  him  to  turn  to  Holland's 
celebrated  and  well-known  work,  the  Heroologia  Anglise, 
containing  the  engraved  portraits  of  the  most  eminent  Eng- 
lish warriors,  navigators,  st:>tesmen,  and  ecclesiastical  re- 
formers, who  flourished  in  England  from  1500  to  1620. 
He  will  there  find,  at  p.  65,  vol.  i.,  a  beautiful  head  of  Sir 
Humphrey  Gilbert,  and  around  it  the  following  inscription, 

"  HUMFRIDUS    GlI.BERTUS,    MiLES    AuRATUS."       Do   thcse 

words  prove  here  that  knighthood  had  not  been  conferred  ? 


Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  183. 


VINDICATION    OF    HAKLUYT. 


355 


10  had  re- 

itis  Auratit 

sometimes 

a  popular 

gatives  the 

liately  con- 

the  appro- 

Auratus  is 

Livt»  vol.  iii. 

Sir  Martin 

p.  143.     In 

rtyr,  it  is  in 

on  the  '  Ef- 

3t  edition  of 

leemed  very 

our  (p.  830) 

le  weight  of 

lly  guilty  of 

;t  have  been 
fore  he  ven- 
id  y<  t  we  are 
'  mark  cour- 
error,  igno- 
fdinary  sen- 
Auratus  are 
,  that  where 
[that  knight- 
ly, the  biog- 
|a  knight,  in- 
ites   Aurati. 
to  Holland's 
gia  Angliae, 
[ninent  Eng- 
siastical  re- 
\0  to   1620. 
head  of  Sir 
inscription, 
Do  these 
conferred  1 


Again,  we  beg  him  to  turn  to  another  engraving  in  the 
same  work,  the  portrait  of  the  celebrated  Sir  Richard  Gren- 
ville,  of  whose  knighthood  there  is  not  the  smallest  doubt. 
It  will  be  found  at  page  85  of  the  first  volume  of  Holland's 
work,  and  it  is  thus  inscribed  around  the  margin, — "  Ricii- 
ARDUs  Grenvilus,  Mil.  Aur.  :"  (Miles  Auratus.)  But  the 
biographer  has  quoted  the  famous  Sir  Francis  Drake,  as 
illustrating  his  argument.  He  points  triumphantly  to  him 
as  an  undoubted  knight,  being  styled  Eques  Auratus,  and 
to  whom,  therefore,  the  words  Miles  Auratus  could  not  pos- 
sibly be  applied.  Once  more,  we  beg  him  to  turn  to  the 
Heroologia,  vol.  i.  page  105.  He  will  there  see  a  striking 
portrait  of  Drake,  with  his  hand  resting  on  the  globe,  and 
these  words  round  the  margin  of  the  print, — "Franciscus 
Drake,  Milks  Auratus."  One  other  example  may  be 
given  of  the  common  use  of  those  words  to  denote  knight- 
hood, which,  according  to  the  positive  assertion  of  our 
author,  are  never  found  together,  and  which,  if  used,  prove 
that  this  honour  had  not  been  conferred.  It  is  the  first 
sentence  in  Holland's  Life  of  Sir  John  Harrington,  Heroo.- 
logia,  p  je  133.  "Joannes  Harington  filius  na.tu  maximus 
Clarissiini  Militis  Jacobi  Haringtoni  de  Exton,  in  Comitatu 
Rutlandie,  Equestri  seu  Militis  Aurati  dignitate  multis 
abhinc  annis  a  beatissimae  memoriae  Regina  Elizabetha 
insignitus  fuit."  It  need  hardly  be  pointed  out  to  the  intel- 
ligent reader,  that  this  brief  sentence  of  four  lines,  in  its  use 
of  the  word  Miles  by  itself  to  denote  knighthood,  and  Miles 
Auratus,  as  synonymous  with  the  terms  dignitas  Equestris, 
overturns  the  whole  argument  of  the  biographer,  who  not 
only  contends  that  the  expression  Miles  Auratus  is  never 
used  as  descriptive  of  knighthood,  but  that,  except  in  an- 
cient deeds,  the  single  word  Miles  never  occurs.  Had  he 
taken  the  trouble  to  consult  any  friend  who  possessed  even 
a  superficial  acquaintance  with  the  language  in  which  the 
inscription  was  written,  he  must  have  discovered  that  the 
words  Eques  Auratus,  Miles  Auratus,  Eoues  by  itself,  and 
Miles  by  itself,  are  used  indiscriminately  in  modern  Latin 
to  denote  knighthood ;  and  that  the  "  absurd  misconcep- 
tion" imputed  to  others  existed  nowhere  but  in  his  own 
ideas. 

But  even  had  we  not  been  able  to  quote  such  unanswer- 
able instances  as  Hum])hrGy,  Grcnville,  Drake,  and  Har» 


41 


I 


356 


APPENDIX. 


i'  • 

i 


bMII 


rfngton,  it  is  singular  that  it  should  not  have  occurred  to 
this  writer  that  the  words  Miles  Auratus  upon  John  Cabot's 
portrait  must  necessarily  have  had  some  meaning, — that 
they  must  either  be  literally  translated,  or  be  understood  to 
express  knighthood.  Now  this  last  he  will  not  allow  them 
to  denote  ;  and  the  only  meaning  he  affixes  to  them  is,  that 
they  "  negative  the  idea  of  knighthood,  and  prove  that  such 
an  honour  had  not  been  conferred."  We  are  driven  then 
to  a  literal  interpretation  ;  and  it  is  impossible  for  him,  ac- 
cording to  the  principle  he  has  laid  down,  to  give  any  other 
translation  than  this  :  "  The  portrait  of  Jsebastian  rabot. 
Englishman,  son  of  John  Cabot  the  Venetian,  a  golden  eol- 
<lier,  but  by  no  means  a  knight,"  Such  is  the  singular  and 
amusing  interpretation  whirh,  had  he  weighed  his  own 
assertion  for  a  moment,  or  had  he  exerted  that  spirit  of  dili- 
gent, accurate,  and  extensive  /«j»earch  (we  are  using  his 
own  words)  to  which  he  lays  claim,*  the  biographer  must 
have  found  it  necessary  to  adopt.  These  various  errors 
have  been  pointed  out  with  no  other  feeluig  than  a  desire 
of  showing  the  recklessness  of  the  attack  upon  Campbell, 
Henry,  and  the  authors  of  the  Biographia  Britannica.  It  is 
•difficult,  indeed,  to  repress  a  smile  when  we  compare  the 
bitterness  and  severity  of  the  criticism  with  the  extreme 
ignorance  of  the  critic  ;  and  in  taking  leave  of  this  subject, 
we  may  be  permitted  to  hope  that  the  recollection  of  his 
•chapter  on  the  words  Miles  Auratus  will  induce  the  cham- 
pion of  Sebastian  Cabot  to  revise  his  Latin,  and  to  be  more 
lenient  to  the  real  or  supposed  mistakes  of  his  predecessors 
<ind  contemporaries. 

It  has  been  shown,  we  trust,  to  the  satisfaction  of  every 
one  who  will  impartially  weigh  the  evidence,  that  John 
Cabot  was  the  discoverer  of  North  America  ;  and  it  is  satis- 
factory to  find  that  all  that  may  be  called  the  contemporary 
proofs^ — the  first  commission  in  Rymer,  the  brief  narrative 
on  the  map  by  Clement,  the  words  of  the  second  commis- 
sion, and  the  inscription  on  the  picture, — confirm  the  con- 
clusion that  this  Venetian  was  entitled  to  the  honour.  Be- 
fore, however,  concluding  these  remarks,  we  may  add  a 
single  word  on  the  testimony  of  later  authd  'is.  Fabyan,  or 
the  contemporary  writer,  for  he  is  spokei    of  under  both 


Introduction  to  M«moir  of  Cftbot,  p.  i. 


t 


VINDICATION    OF   HAKLTJYT. 


357 


denominations,  Bacon,  De  Thou,  and  Speed,  are  all  cited  by 
the  biographer  as  exclusively  in  favour  of  the  title  of  Se- 
bastian. "  We  have  the  best  evidence,"  says  he  (p.  44), 
*'  that  the  contemporary  writer,  whoever  he  may  have  been, 
made  not  the  slightest  allusion  to  the  father.  Bacon,  vSpced, 
Thuanus,  &c.  all  furnish  the  same  statement."  Now,  with 
regard  to  Fabyan,  in  his  printed  Chronicle  there  is  no  allu- 
sion, either  to  the  original  discovery  on  the  24th  June,  1497, 
or  to  the  subsequent  voyage  of  Sebastian  Cabot  in  1498  ; 
and  as  to  the  supposed  manuscript  Chronicle  which  is 
stated  by  Stow  to  have  been  in  his  possession,  it  appears  to 
have  perished,  and  we  have  no  mode  of  ascertaining  its 
import,  except  through  the  note  of  Hakluyt,  which,  as  far 
as  it  goes,  is  nowise  against  the  claim  of  John  Cabot.  Nay, 
even  granting  that  (to  the  contrary  of  which  we  have  strong 
proof)  in  Stow's  Chronicle,  published  in  1605,  occurs  the 
very  passage  of  the  lost  manuscript  of  Fabyan,  and  that  in 
this  passage  Schastiaa  Cabot,  a  Genoa's  son,  born  in  Bris- 
tol, is  alone  mentioned  ;  still  the  reader  is  already  aware  of 
the  conclusive  ans-iver,  namely,  that  the  passage  relates,  not 
to  the  first  voyage  of  1497,  but  to  the  second  voyage  of 
1498,  of  which  all  are  agreed  that  Sebastian  Cabot  had  the 
command.  But  another  evidence  in  favour  of  Sebastian  as 
the  original  discoverer  is  said  to  be  found  in  Lord  Bacon's 
Life  of  Henry  VIL  VVe  can  scarcely  persuade  ourselves 
that  any  one  who  makes  this  assertion  can  have  attentively 
studied  the  remark  in  question,  so  evidently  1  -is  it  allude, 
we  think,  where  it  mentions  Sebastian,  to  the  s';.  ond  voyage 
of  1498,  and  not  to  the  original  voyage  of  i'-?'.  That 
Bacon  was  aware  this  was  not  the  first  diooove^y,  md  that 
he  had  a  vague  knowledge  of  a  prior  voyage,  ni  which  the 
continent  of  America  was  originally  found  aut,  is  ev>  ieat 
from  this  sentence  :  "  And  there  had  bee!  efore  that  time 
a  discovery  of  some  lands,  which  they  took  to  be  islands, 
and  were,  indeed,  the  continent  of  America  towards  the 
north-west."  Again,  as  if  anxious  to  warn  the  reader  as  to 
there  having  been  a  prior  discovery,  he  says,  '*  But  this 
Gabato  bearing  the  kin^r  in  hand  that  he  would  find  out  an 
island  endued  with  rich  commodities,  procured  him  to  man 
and  victual  a  ship  at  Bristol,  for  the  discovery  of  thaf 
island,  with  whom  ventured  also  three  small  ships  of  Lon- 
don merchants,  fraught  with  some  gross  and  slight  wares, 


ji 


5 


358 


APPENDIX. 


ir 


li 

^il  ill 
^f  111! 

"til 


fit  for  commerce  with  barbarous  people."*  It  is  evident 
that  Lord  Bacop  is  here  making  use  of  the  passage  in  Stow, 
employing,  witli  some  slight  alterations,  its  very  words. 
So  far,  however,  from  containing  a  proof  that  the  merit  of 
the  original  discovery  belongs  to  Sebastian,  it  warns  the 
reader  that  the  continent  had  already  been  found  in  some 
prior  voyage,  although  no  name  is  given,  and  the  date  is 
left  uncertain.  The  observation  of  the  biographer,  there- 
fore, that  Bacon  makes  no  allusion  to  the  father,  is  literally 
correct  ;  but  the  inference  drawn  from  it,  that  therefore 
Bacon's  testimony  goes  to  support  the  claim  of  Sebastian 
as  the  original  discoverer,  is  completely  excluded  when  the 
passage  comes  to  be  narrowly  examined. 

As  to  De  Thou,  this  great  writer,  so  far  as  we  have 
looked  throujjh  his  voluminou.^  historical  work,  contains  no 
passage  upon  the  subject  of  eithei  voyage ;  and  the  same 
observation  applies  to  such  editions  of  Ci-afton,  Holinshed, 
Hall,  and  Harding  as  we  have  had  an  oppo -tunity  of  con- 
sulting. It  has  been  already  remarked  that  the  sentence 
quoted  from  Stow,  which  the  biographer  erroneously  con- 
ceives to  offer  a  proof  that  Sebastian  had  the  sole  charge  of 
the  voyage  of  1497,  in  which  the  discovery  was  made, 
relates  solely  to  the  second  voyage  of  1498. t  With  regard 
to  Speed,  whom  he  ilso  quotes  as,  along  with  Bacon  and 
De  Thou,  making  no  allusion  to  the  father,  the  same 
answer  strictly  applies, — the  only  voyage  of  which  he  takes 
notice  being  the  second,  in  1498,  as  is  distinctly  fixed  by 
his  observation  that  it  took  place  after  the  apprehension  of 
Perkin  Warbeck.t  It  is  very  evident,  however,  that  the 
biographer  was  bound  to  show  that  Bacon,  Stow,  and 
<?peed  had  given  an  account  of  the  first  voyage  of  1497,  in 
Which  the  discovery  was  made,  and  in  that  account  had  in- 
troduced no  allusion  to  the  father,  before  he  was  entitled, 
from  their  omission,  to  draw  any  argument  against  him.  In 
this,  however,  he  has  totally  failed. 

The  fact  is  certainly  remarkable  that,  while  in  contem- 
porary documents  of  unquestionable  authority  we  find  con- 

*  Bacon's  Henry  VII.  in  Kennet,  vol.  i.  p.  624. 

t  Stow's  Chronicles  by  Howe,  edition  1631,  p.  481. 

i  Speed's  History  of  Greal  Britain,  p.  "44,  edition  1511,  In  the  edition 
of  Speed's  work  published  in  1632,  there  is  no  mention  of  the  voyage  of 
either  of  the  Cabots. 


VINDICATION   OF   HAKLT7YT. 


359 


vincing  proof  of  th»  ery  having  been  mdcle  by  John 

Cabot,  in  none  of  t  tgiish  annalists  or  historians  who 

treat  of  the  reign  of  cnry  VII.  do  we  see  any  account  of 
the  first  voyage,  while  many  of  them  have  distinctly  record€d 
the  circumstances  of  the  second.  But  of  this  it  is  not 
difficult  to  discover  the  reason.  The  first  voyage  was  a 
private  adventure  or  experiment  by  John  Cabot,  and  proba- 
bly little  known  or  talked  of  l)eyond  the  city  of  Bristol.  It 
was  undertaken  at  the  expense,  not  of  *he  crown,  but  of  the 
individual;  and  after  having  n  1e  the  discovery,  Cabot 
appears  to  have  returned  at  once  without  exploring  the 
coast,  to  make  preparations  for  a  voyage  on  a  more  extended 
scale.  When  he  reached  England,  in  the  month  of  August, 
1497,  ^eing  shortly  after  the  commencement  of  the  thirteenth 
year  of  Henry's  reign,  he  found  the  sovereign  and  his  king- 
dom in  a  state  of  extreme  anxiety  and  confusion.  The 
king  was  engrossed  with  an  invasion  of  the  Scots,  with  a 
formidable  rebellion  in  (Cornwall,  and  a  new  rising  in  favour 
of  Warbeck,  th?  leader  of  which  threatened  to  pluck  the 
crown  from  his  head  and  give  it  to  that  adventurer,  who, 
early  in  September,  had  landed  from  Ireland  and  assumed 
the  title  of  Richard  IV.  It  was  upon  these  great  events, — 
the  attacks  of  his  enemies,  and  the  measures  adopted  to 
defeat  them, — that  the  minds  of  the  contrmporary  writi  rs, 
and  of  the  succeedinii  chroniclers  and  annalists,  were  nat- 
urally  concentrated  ;  and,  engrossed  with  them,  they  paid 
little  attention  to  the  discovery  of  a  private  merchant  of 
Bristol.  It  is  for  this  reason,  we  apprehend,  that  we  in 
vain  look  in  Fabyan  and  in  Stow  for  any  detailed  account, 
or  even  incidental  mention,  of  the  discovery  of  1497. 

The  circumstances,  however,  under  which  the  second 
voyage,  in  1498,  took  place,  which  all  are  agreed  was  con- 
ducted solely  bv  Sebastian  Cabot,  were  completely  difterent. 
It  was  undertaken  at  the  expense  of  the  king,  who  furnished 
the  sh'pvS  ;  it  contemplated  a  scheme  of  settlement  and 
colonization,  in  which  all  the  ardent  rind  mterprising  spirits 
in  the  nation  were  invited  to  co-operate.  Many,  there  is 
reason  to  believe,  did  embark  in  the  undertaking ;  and, 
instead  of  merely  landing  on  the  island  and  returning  home, 
the  voyage  embraced  the  discovery  of  a  large  tract  of  coast, 
till  that  period  unknown.  If  to  this  we  add  the  considera- 
tion that,  about  the  time  when  the  second  expedition  must 


\ 


11 


sao 


APPENDIX. 


I' 


have  returned  to  Bristol,  the  kingdom  was  in  profound  peace/ 
both  at  home  and  abroad,  it  will  not  be  difficult  to  understand 
why  this  voyage  should  constitute  the  event  upon  which  the 
attention  of  our  national    annalists   has   been   exclusively 
fixed ;  while  the  former,  in  which  the  discovery  was  un- 
doubtedly made,  has  been  passed  over  by  them  altogether. 
But  although  chroniclers  and  historians  may  fall  into  many 
errors  of  omission,  the  original  muniments  of  the  country 
and  the  period  remain  ;  and  these,  combined  with  the  nar- 
rative  upon   the  map  and  the  inscription  on   the  ancient 
portrait,  completely  establish  the  fact  that  John  Cabot,  the 
Venetian,  was,  in  1497,  the  discoverer  of  North  America, 
under  a  commission   from  Henry   VII.     This   portion  of 
historical   truth,   which   has    hitherto  certainly  been    sur- 
rounded with  much  obscurity  and  appartr '  contradiction, 
and  of  late  absolutely  denied  by  the  biographer  of  Cabot, 
has  now,  we  trust,  been  established  upon  grounds  which 
cannot  easily  be  shaken. 


I 


THK   END. 


md  peactff 
nderstand 
which  the 
xchisively 
J  was  un- 
iltogether. 
into  many 
le  country 
Lh  the  nar- 
le   ancient 
Cabot,  the 
I  America, 
portion  of 
been    sur- 
itradiction, 
r  of  Cabot, 
anda  which 


;  ♦-' 


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HISTORY  OF  POLA>  O,  from   the   earli- 

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FESTIVALS,    GAMES,    AND    AMUSE- 

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LIFE   OF   SIR   ISAAC    NEWTON.      By 

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PALESTINE,    OR   THE   HOLY   LAND. 

From  the  earliest  Period  to  the  present  Time.  By  the 
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MEMOIRS    OF   THE   EMPRESS   JOSE- 
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THE    COURT   AND   CAMP  OF   BONA- 
PARTE.   With  a  Portrait  of  Talleyrand. 

"  This  work  is  highly  interesting."—  V,  S.  Gazette. 

"The  volume  will  be  read  with  interest  and  instruction."— Conn. 
Mirror. 

"The  sketches  are  entertaining  and  well  written,  and  constitute  a 
valuable  compend  for  reference  on  all  the  more  important  subjects  con- 
nected with  the  career  of  this  extraordinary  dynasty."— WituAinf-ton 
(D.C.)  Globe.  ,  ,  ^ 

LIVES    AND    VOYAGES    OF    DRAKE, 

CAVENDISH,  AND  DAMPIER  ;  including  an  intro- 
ductory  View  of  the  earlier  Discoveries  in  the  South  Sea, 
and  the  History  of  the  Bucaniers.     With  Portraits. 

"  This  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  interesting  compilations  which  the 
press  has  sent  forth  for  some  years." — ^V.  Y.  Evening  Journal. 

"  While  in  the  present  work  the  young  will  And  delight,  the  aged  and 
mature  will  discover  matter  of  deep  interest  and  useful  reflection." — 
Baltimore  Minerva. 

"  These  volumes  will  beget  a  love  for  appropriate  av< d  useflil  reading, 
and  cannot  but  be  widely  beneficial  to  individuals  and  communities."— 
Connecticut  Mirror. 


iction  ."—Conw, 


VALUABLE     WORKS.  7 

DESCRIPTION  OP  PITCAIRN'S  ISLAND 

AND  ITS  INHABITANTS.  With  an  authentic  Ac- 
count of  the  Mutiny  of  the  Ship  Bounty,  and  of  the  sub- 
sequent Fortunes  of  the  Mutineers.     With  Engravings. 

"  The  reader  may  here  find  in  failhfUI  history  events  of  thrilling  inter- 
est in  the  varied  foitunes  of  seamen."— Southern  Religious  Telegraph. 

'•  There  is  hardly  any  reading  more  interRstiJig  than  voyages,  and  the 
accounts  in  this  hook  are  atiiong  the  most  interesting  we  have  ever 
perused." — Boston  Statesman. 

"  A  subject  having  more  points  of  interest  ran  scarcely  be  imagined, 
und  the  abilities  and  opportunities  of  the  author  give  an  assurance  that 
they  have  not  been  overlooked." — Atlas. 

"  The  story  is  e.xceedingiy  well  told — it  is  true — and  is  embellished 
'With  particulars  of  which  the  public  have  not  belbre  been  put  in  posses- 
sion."— Connecticut  Mirror. 

SACRED  HISTORY  OF  THE  WORLD, 

ds  displayed  in  the  Creation  and  subsequent  events  to  the 
Deluge.     By  Sharon  Turner. 

"The  volume  contains  a  vast  mass  of  interesting  facts  to  illustrate  the 
difterent  departments  of  the  natural  world.  It  bears  marks  of  great  re- 
search, and  is  worthy  of  a  careful  perusal," — Connecticut  Observer. 

"  We  can  most  heartily  recommend  this  work  as  eminently  worthy  of 
a  place  in  every  library."— CA«rcAma». 

"  It  is  a  book  calculated  to  be  of  great  general  utility ;  and  will  be 
found  particularly  convenient  for  bible-classes,  who  are  studying  the 
Mosaic  History  of  the  Creation."— Commercial  Advertiser. 

MEMOIRS  OF  CELEBRATED  FEMALE 

SOVEREIGNS.     By  Mrs.  JamesoN.     In  2  vols. 

•*  A  readable  book,  In  which  good  use  is  made  of  a  subject  not  the  most 
promising — The  authoress  tells  a  plain  story  with  facility,  and  makes 
neat  and  appropriate  comments  with  a  happy  freedom."— CAwrcfcman. 

"Many  a  more  ambitious  history  has  been  executed  with  less  talent 
and  happy  candour  than  these  moral  and  picturesque  sketches." — Boston 
Daily  Advocate. 

AN  EXPEDITION  TO  EXPLORE  THE 

COURSE  AND  TERMINATION  OF  THE  NIGER. 
By  Richard  and  John  Lander.     In  2  vols.    Maps,  dec. 

"  They  (the  Landers)  tell  a  story  of  no  K.nall  interest,  and  no  few  vicis- 
situdes, with  manly  honesty  and  simplicity,  and  considerable  life  and 
vigour.  In  description  of  local  scenery  they  are  often  eminently  happy ; 
in  narrative  never  tiresome :  in  sketcliesof  character  and  manners,  inter- 
estinu  and  successful,  because  artless  and  faithftil. "—C/mrc/iman. 

"  The  incidents  were  many  and  intercvsting :  while  their  discoveries 
have  brought  to  our  knowledge  scores  of  savage  tribes  and  nations.  We 
know  of  few  works  of  this  description  which  have  added  as  much  to  our 
geographical  knowled"^,  or  depicted  in  such  painfully  interesting  colours 
the  ignorance  and  wild  barbarism  of  unbaptized  Africa."— iV.  Y.  Observtr 


\ 


8 


VALUABLE  WORKS. 


.; 


I 


1^  ^ 


r 


!  N 


INQUIRIES  CONCERNING  THE  In- 
tellectual POWERS  AND  THE  INVESTI- 
GATION OF  TRUTH.    By  John  Abebcrombie,  M.D. 

"  It  will  not  only  feed,  but  form  the  public  intellect.  It  cannot  be  dis- 
seminated too  widely  in  a  nation  eafrer  for  knowlcd)i;e,  keen  in  inquiry 
to  a  proverb,  and  accustomed  to  think  no  matters  loo  high  for  scrutiny, 
no  authority  too  venerable  for  question."— CAMrcAmnn. 

"  It  will  be  read,  or  rather  studied  with  delight  and  profit  by  those  who- 
wish  to  cultivate  an  acquaintance  with  the  phenomena  of  the  intellectual 
world.  The  author's  illustrations  are  clear,  and  his  reasoning  sound." — 
Southern  Religious  Telegraph. 

THE  LIVES  OF  CELEBRATED  TRAV- 

ELLERS.     By  James  A.  St.  John.     In  3  vols. 

"The  work  is  well  edited,  and  will  unquestionably  be  perused  wlf* 
satisfiaction  and  profit,  especially  by  the  younger  class  of  the  commu- 
nity."—fia/jfw^  Repository. 

"  But  few  works  have  ever  been  published  which  comprise  more  gene- 
ral information  in  a  brief  form  —  It  is  a  publication  which  will  commend 
itself  to  M:'— Albany  Daily  Advertiser. 

"The  whole  is  an  interesting  publication,  and  may  be  properly  coiw 
suited  both  by  the  adult  and  youthful  student."- ^/6ton. 

LIFE  OF  FREDERICK  THE   SECOND, 

KING  OF  PRUSSIA.    By  Lord  Dover.    In  2  vols. 
With  a  Portrait. 

"  Lord  Dover  has  in  these  volumes,  by  rejecting  all  that  is  exceptionable 
or  of  slight  interest,  while  he  retained  every  thing  essential,  made  up  a 
comprehensive  and  very  attractive  book."— JV.  Y.  .American. 

"  An  agreeably  written  and  highly  interesting  piece  of  biography.... 
The  biographer's  own  morality  is  of  the  soundest  kind ;  and  his  reflec- 
tions, in  handling  the  infidel  principles  and  correspondence  of  the  royal 
skeptic,  are  such  as  they  should  be.  The  poison  is  not  allowed  to  worie 
by  being  passed  over  without  comment." — N.  Y.  Commercial  Advertiser.. 

SKETCHES    FROM    VENETIAN    HIS- 

TOR  v.     In  2  vols.     With  Maps  and  Engravings  on 
Steel  and  Wood. 

"  A  history  of  the  Venetian  republic,  accessible  to  all  classes  and  ages, 
prepared  for  popular  use,  has  been  much  wanted  for  a  long  time,  and  thi» 
production  is  admirably  calculated  to  supply  xV^— Baltimore  American. 

"The  work  va  written  in  a  style  of  brilliant  narrative  from  authentic 
materials,  and  deserves  a  place  in  every  library." — Mobile  Gazette. 

"The  able  manner  in  which  the  author  has  accomplished  his  task  ia 
above  all  praise." — Boston  State.<man. 

"  These  '  Sketches'  are  gleaned  from  several  very  rare  works,  and 
brought  within  the  reach  of  every  person  who  is  desirous  of  acquainting 
himself  with  the  history  of  this  ancient  people;  and  no  one,  after  reading 
these  little  volumes,  will  regret  bis  expenditure  uf  time  and  money."— 
N.  B.  Review.  ' 


S 


f 


HE    IN- 

INVESTI- 

OMBIE)  M.D. 

;  cannot  be  dls- 
leen  in  inquiry 
h  for  Bcrutlny, 

It  by  those  who- 

the  intellectual 

jning  sound."— 

D  TRAV- 

vols. 

be  perused  wit)» 

I  of  the  comrau* 

prise  more  gene- 
ch  will  commend 

be  properly  con- 
I. 

SECOND, 

I.    In  3  vols. 

t  is  exceptionable 

ntial,  made  up  a 

ican. 

of  biography. ••• 
;  and  his  reflec- 
nce  of  the  royal 
allowed  to  work 
rcial  Advertiser.. 

Ian  his- 

jngravings  on; 

plasses  and  ages» 
ijf  time,  and  thi» 
wre  American. 
.  from  authentic 

ile  Gazette. 

^hed  his  task  is 

Jrare  works,  and 
Is  of  acquainting 
Ine,  afler  reading 
aud  money."— 


VALUABLE     WORKS. 


9 


INDIAN  LIVES ;  or,  an  Historical  Account 

of  those  Individuals  who  have  been  distinguished  among 
the  North  American  Natives  as  Orators,  Warriors,  States- 
men, &c.     By  B.  B.  Thatcher,  Esq.     In  2  vols.     . 

"The  author  has  spared  no  palns^  in  making  himself  acquainted  w»'ii 
the  proper  materials  for  a  work  of  this  character ;  and  their  arrangement 
reflects  much  credit  on  him."— iV.  E.  Christian  Herald. 

"We  like  these  volumes  well.  They  are  written  with  a  perspicuity 
«nd  liveliness  that  recommend  them  to  all.  Mr.  Thatcher  has  ably  filled 
up  a  chasm  in  American  literature.  These  two  volumes  blend  ihe  authen< 
ticity  of  history  with  Ihe  thrilling  excitements  of  forest  narratives,  de- 
scriptive of  the  native  energy  and  grandeur  of  the  old  free  kings,  who 
ruled  the  new-found  America."— Badg^er'*  Weekly  Messenger. 

HISTORICAL  AND  DESCRIPTIVE  AC- 
COUNT OF  BRITISH  INDIA.  From  the  most  remote 
period  to  the  present  time.  By  several  popular  Authors. 
In  3  vols.    With  a  Map,  and  many  Engravings  on  Wood. 

"The  history  of  British  India  is  uncommonly  interesting.... The 
whole  work  bears  the  impress  of  impartiality,  fldelity,  research,  and 
accuracy." — Baptist  Repository. 

"  Such  authentic  and  extensive  information  relating  to  this  interesting 
portion  of  the  globe  has  never  before  been  so  happily  imbodled."— iV.  Y. 
Traveller. 

LETTERS  ON  NATURAL  MAGIQ    Ad- 

dressed  to  Sir  Walter  Scott,  Bart.  By  Sir  David 
Brewster,  K.H.  LL.D. 

"  The  present  work  may  be  regarded  as  one  of  those  results  of  modem 
research  and  study,  by  which  society  at  large  will  be  benefited ;  and  the 
perusal  of  it  would  very  profitably  and  pleasantly  employ  the  hours  now 
wasted  upon  books  which  leave  not  a  single  salutary  impression  upon 
the  mind." — Presbyterian. 

"  We  know  of  no  other  woric  or  treatise  whch  has  compressed,  within 
the  same  compass,  so  much  useful  and  various  matter  upon  the  many 
subjects  falling  within  the  range  of  the  investigation."— Com.  .Advertiser. 

THE  HISTORY  OF  IRELAND.   By  W.  C. 

Taylor,  Esq«  With  Additions,  by  William  Sampson, 
Esq.     In  2  vols.     Plates. 

"This  is  a  calm,  clear,  and  a  candid  book — A  sober  and  dispassion- 
ate book  on  this  tender  subject  was  much  wanted  —  Mr.  Taylor  has  per- 
formed his  melancholy  task  with  no  ungentle  spirit,  and  written  the  most 
consistent  narrative  of  those  events  that  we  have  yet  seen-  •.  -The  work 
abounds  with  pictures  of  warand  desolation— of  happiness  and  prosperity 
— of  sudden  elevations  and  sad  overthrows ;  if  there  is  much  violence 
and  wrong,  there  is  also  much  nobleness  of  mind,  generosity  of  nature, 
&nd  gentleness  of  heart."— TTie  AtheniBum. 


INTERESTING    BOOKS   FOR   TOIXNO   PERSONS. 


t  • 


i 


llJ 


'      r 


( 


ROXOBEL.  By  Mrs.  Sherwood,  Author  o . 
"  The  Lady  of  the  Manor,"  (kc.  In  3  vols. 
ISmo.    With  engravings. 

'* — An  interesting  story It  is  in  Mfs.  Sherwood's 

happiest  manner,  and  though  intended  for  the  instruction 
and  amusement  of  the  young,  will  rivet  the  attention  of 
readers  of  unvitiated  taste  of  every  age.  We  recommend 
it  as  an  excellent  and  instructive  book."— iV.  F.  American, 

**  There  is  not  a  page  or  a  line  in  this  work  that  the  pure 
and  virtuous  may  not  read  with  pleasure." — Am.  Traveller, 

"A  vein  of  strict  morality  runs  through  her  writings,  and 
all  her  sentiments  upon  the  incidents  which  she  chooses 
for  subjects  are  calculated  to  draw  forth  the  finest  and  most 
honourable  feelings  of  our  nature." — N.  Y,  Even.  Journal, 

NATURAL  HISTORY  op  INSECTS. 

Illustrated  by  numerous  engravings.   18mo. 

**  Of  all  studies,  perhaps,  there  is  none  more  captivating 

than  that  of  animated  nature The  present  voi^ume  is 

peculiarly  useful  and  agreeable." — N.  Y,  Mirror, 

**  The  subject  is  full  of  interest  and  satisfaction,  and  is 
adapted  to  all  classes  of  readers." — Alb.  Evening  Journal, 

**  It  is  the  duty  of  every  person  having  a  family  to  put  this 
excellent  work  into  the  hands  of  his  children." — Mer.  Adv, 

<*  It  seems  to  us  that  it  will  prove  at  once  agreeable  and 
instructive  to  persons  of  all  classes." — N,  Y.  Daily  Adv. 

SIR  EDWARD  SEAWARD'S  NARRA- 
TIVE OP  HIS  SHIPWRECK,  (fee.  Ed- 
ited by  Miss  Jane  Porter.     3  vols.  12mo. 

,  «*We  have  finished  the  perusal  of  this  most  agreeable 
work,  and  almost  regret  that  the  pleasure  of  a  first  perusal 
has  gone  by ;  though  it  is  one  of  those  books  which  will 
bear  reading  again  and  again." — Commercial  Advertiser, 

**  It  is  a  narrative  of  great  interest,  told  in  a  plain,  un- 
pretending style,  in  a  religious  and  moral  tone." — Standard, 


RECENTLY    PUBLISHED,  • 

LIVES  OF  THE  APOSTLES  and  EARLY 
MARTYRS  OF  the  CHURCH.  18mo.  By 
the  Author  of  "  The  Trial  of  Skill."  [No.  I. 
of  the  Boy's  and  Girl's  Library.  Designed 
for  Sunday  reading.] 

'*  We  think  it  well  calculated  to  impress  on  the  minds  of 
children  the  portions  of  Scripture  history  to  which  it  relates. 
The  narrative  of  the  lives  and  characters  of  the  eminent 
apostles  and  martyrs  related  in  it  is  drawn  up  in  a  clear 
and  simple  style,  and  well  adapted  to  the  use  for  which  it 
is  designed." — N.  Y.  Daily  Advertiser. 

"  This  is  a  cheap  and  useful  hook :  parents  will  do  well 
to  place  it  in  the  hands  of  their  children." — Mercantile  Adv. 

"  The  book  before  us  will  form  a  desirable  acquisition  for 
Sunday-school  libraries,  and  will  be  thankfully  received  by 
children  as  an  acceptable  and  instructive  present  from 
parents." — Commercial  Adv. 

"  This  work  is  intended  for  Sunday  reading ;  and  is 
written  in  a  style  that  will  attract  and  fix  the  attention,  not 
only  of  those  for  whom  it  is  more  particularly  designed,  but 
persons  of  mature  age." — Old  Countryman. 

"  It  is  written  in  an  easy,  familiar  style  ;  and  being  di- 
vided into  chapters,  each  devoted  to  a  particular  subject, 
presents  itself  in  an  attractive  form  to  the  young  reader." — 
N.  H.  Patriot. 

"  The  *  Lives  of  the  Apostles  and  early  Martyrs'  should 
find  a  place  in  our  Sunday-school  libraries." — Newluryport 
Herald. 

"  The  subjects  are  brought  closely  home  to  the  sympa- 
thies of  children." — Connecticut  Mirror. 

"  The  contents  of  this  little  volume  answer  to  the  title, 
and  are  both  useful  and  entertaining  to  the  dawning  mind." 
— Boston  Statesman.  • 

"  The  style  of  this  volume  is  adapted  to  the  class  of 
readers  for  whom  it  was  especially  prepared,  and  to  whom 
we  are  sure  it  will  be  especially  profitable." — Amtrxcan 
Traveller. 


AK 


RECENTLY    PUBLISHED, 

THE  SWISS  FAMILY  ROBINSON;  or, 

Adventures  of  a  Father  and  Mother  and 
four  Sons  on  a  desert  Island.  From  the 
seventh  London  Edition,  greatly  improved. 
In  two  vols.  18mo.  [Nos.  II.  <k  III.  of  the 
Boy's  and  Girl's  Library.] 

"  We  do  not  think  a  parent  could  select  a  more  accept- 
able or  judicious  Christmas  or  New  Year's  gift." — iVoo- 
Haven  Religious  IntelHgencer,  '        t 

"  The  story  has  all  that  wild  charm  of  adventure  and 
discovery  which  has  made  Robinson  Crusoe  such  a  wonder 
to  every  generation  since  it  was  written." — Baptist  Repos, 

"  Well  calculated  to  claim  the  attention  of  the  interesting 
part  of  the  community  to  which  it  is  addressed." — N.  Y. 
Advocate  and  Journal. 

«  We  cordially  recommend  these  little  volumes  to  those 
for  whom  they  are  designed." — Atlas, 

"  A  treasure  for  children  which  parents  cannot  over-estir 
mate." — Albany  Evening  Journal, 

"  We  recommend  this  work  to  parents  as  well  calculated 
to  attract  the  attention  of  the  young,  and  to  convey  to  their 
minds  great  and  important  truths  in  morals,  history,  and 
the  sciences." — Troy  Budget, 

**  The  contents  are  of  a  character  that  cannot  fail  to  in- 
terestt  amuse,  and  instruct  the  class  of  readers  for  whom 
it  is  designed." — R.  I.  American, 

"  This  little  work  is  so  much  of  a  story,  that  it  will  seem 
a  relaxation  rather  than  a  school-task,  and  at  the  same  time 
it  will  give  the  juvenile  reader  more  practical  instruction  in 
natural  history,  economy,  and  the  means  of  contriving  and 
helping  one's  self,  than  many  books  of  the  very  best  pre- 
tensions in  the  department  of  instruction." — Boston  Daily 
Advocate, 

"  Parents  would  do  well  to  place  these  volumes  in  the 
hands  of  their  children." — JV.  Y,  Mercantile  Advertiser. 

"A  work  of  infinite  merit." — Literary  Subaltern,  Prov. 


..« 


ED,  ^ 

BINSON;  or, 

d  Mother  and 
id.  From  the 
atly  improved. 
:.  <fc  HI.  of  the 

] 

ect  a  more  accept- 
ear's  gift." — New 

of  adventure  and 
poe  such  a  wonder 
" — Baptist  Repos. 

of  the  interesting 
Idressed."— jY.  Y, 

volumes  to  those 

cannot  over-estl* 

IS  well  calculated 
o  convey  to  their 
•als,  history,  and 

cannot  fail  to  in- 
iaders  for  whom 


that  it  will  seem 
&t  the  same  time 
al  instruction  in 
f  contriving  and 
e  very  best  pre- 
' — Boston  Daily 

volumes  in  the 
Advertiser. 

haltem,  Prov. 


